---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 11/06/05: 33 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:07 AM - Re: Jack Norris Propeller book version=3.0.3 (John Huft) 2. 07:22 AM - Re: Any ideas for a heat diffuser on an old 6 (Gerald Richardson) 3. 07:50 AM - Re: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? (Evan and Megan Johnson) 4. 07:53 AM - Tinted canopies (Glen Matejcek) 5. 08:58 AM - Re: Tinted canopies () 6. 09:28 AM - Nipple on spider too tight (George Inman) 7. 09:31 AM - Re: Tinted canopies (Chuck Jensen) 8. 09:55 AM - [ Arthur P. Loring, Jr ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares) 9. 11:19 AM - Re: Nipple on spider too tight (Chuck) 10. 11:39 AM - Wheel/tire balancing device picture (Ron Lee) 11. 11:52 AM - Re: Nipple on spider too tight (linn walters) 12. 11:57 AM - Ignitions? (Fly n Low) 13. 12:12 PM - Re: High Voltage Problem () 14. 12:18 PM - Re: Ignitions? (James Clark) 15. 12:23 PM - Re: Ignitions? (Kyle Boatright) 16. 12:26 PM - Slider tip-forward canopy madification (Greg Grigson) 17. 12:36 PM - Re: Tinted canopies (james frierson) 18. 12:46 PM - Re: Tinted canopies (Chuck Jensen) 19. 12:48 PM - Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) () 20. 01:22 PM - Re: Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) (Mickey Coggins) 21. 02:45 PM - Re: Slider tip-forward canopy madification (Ed Holyoke) 22. 02:45 PM - Re: Ignitions? (Doug Weiler) 23. 02:47 PM - Re: Ignitions? (Kevin Horton) 24. 03:33 PM - Re: Slider tip-forward canopy modification (James H Nelson) 25. 03:35 PM - Re: Ignitions? (Kelly McMullen) 26. 05:24 PM - Re: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? (Warren Gretz) 27. 07:35 PM - ignition wiring (sarg314) 28. 08:04 PM - Re: ignition wiring (Ron Lee) 29. 08:37 PM - Re: Re: High Voltage Problem (J D Newsum) 30. 08:56 PM - When to buy engine? (Matt Johnson) 31. 09:14 PM - Re: Re: High Voltage Problem (Jerry Springer) 32. 09:52 PM - Re: ignition wiring (Dave Nellis) 33. 11:10 PM - Looking for good used ANR headset (Rocket Shop) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:07:20 AM PST US From: John Huft Subject: Re: RV-List: Jack Norris Propeller book version=3.0.3 version=3.0.3 --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft Oh well. Now I'm really sorry I didn't make it to his seminar. John S Hamer wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "S Hamer" > >John, > >Just as a point of reference, I gave Jack my $12.00 for his book at one of >the Luscombe fly-ins at Columbia Ca. in either '95 or '96, not sure which >year. It was worth the money just to listen to him talk about his career. >The book will be a bonus if he ever finishes it. > >Steve Hamer >Apple Valley > > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "John Huft" >To: >Subject: Re: RV-List: Jack Norris Propeller book version=3.0.3 > > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: John Huft >> >>Randy >> >>At Oshkosh, I was hanging around the plane, and Jack came by, >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:22:44 AM PST US From: Gerald Richardson Subject: RE: RV-List: Any ideas for a heat diffuser on an old 6 --> RV-List message posted by: Gerald Richardson Curt could you email me a photo also at gerric@shaw.ca. Thanks -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Curt Reimer Subject: Re: RV-List: Any ideas for a heat diffuser on an old 6 --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" > The cold is coming and Im tired of having my passenger's toes nice and > toasty while Im freezing. Has anyone come > up with an easy solution to > mix the air exiting the firewall from one side? Im thinking of just > riveting a thin piece of al > and bending it to some angle. Not sure how > effective it will be though. I made a heat distribution manifold out of fibreglass, using the lost foam method. I glued styrofoam blocks (blue SM) together using hot glue to get the rough shape and then carved and sanded until I had a mock-up duct that nicely fitted in place without interfering with the rudder pedals. I then covered the foam with several layers of fibreglass and epoxy. When hard, I poured laquer thinner into a hole at one end and dissolved out the foam, leaving a hollow duct. I cut some air exit holes at strategic intervals and installed it. It works great and evenly distributes the heat what heat is available. I only wish there were more of it. I'll send a photo to your email. Curt ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:50:42 AM PST US From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" No heated tube yet. I kind of put my prototype on the back burner as it seems like there are a few new ones coming out already. I am just having a cessna style tube machined and was planning on using a cessna heating element. Simple and proven. The target price is $400 with the tube, mast and all of the hardware. A nice set of hardware at a reasonable price, but I need to know there would be demand before spending 10 thousand dollars or so. I thought I would see what the new items looked like first. Evan Johnson www.evansaviationproducts.com (530)247-0375 (530)351-1776 cell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas A. Fischer" Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? > --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" > > The pitot on your website is non-heated. Do you have a heated version that > I'm missing? > > Doug Fischer > RV-9A > Jenison, MI > do not archive > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" > > > > > You could buy mine.....they are powdercoated aluminum :) > > Evan Johnson > > www.evansaviationproducts.com > > (530)247-0375 > > (530)351-1776 cell > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Jeff Dowling" > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" > > > > > > > > Speaking of the Gretz mount, mine is rusting after only a year, stored > > > indoors!! > > > > > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling > > > RV-6A, N915JD > > > 235 hours > > > Chicago/Louisville > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Douglas A. Fischer" > > > To: "RV-9 Matronics List" ; "RV Matronics List" > > > > > > Subject: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? > > > > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" > > > > > > > > > Does anyone know a source for vacuum-metalizing for retail customers? > I > > > > was thinking that may be a safe way to put a chrome finish on the > black > > > > plastic Gretz heated pitot to match the mount. I think the old chrome > > > > dip-in-chemicals route used to plate metal would damage the pitot. > > > > > > > > Doug Fischer > > > > RV-9A Wings > > > > Jenison, MI > > > > > > > > Do not archive > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:53:39 AM PST US From: "Glen Matejcek" Subject: RV-List: Tinted canopies --> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" Hey all- I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm concerned about having the tint for night flight. I've checked the archives, but found nothing useful. For those who have 'been there, done that', what are your observations / recommendations? Obviously, it will affect vision to some extent, but is it at all significant in the real world? Would you do it again? Thanks in advance- Glen Matejcek aerobubba@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:58:56 AM PST US From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Tinted canopies --> RV-List message posted by: Glen, You might want to discuss purchasing a "titanium" tinted canopy from Todd. I've discussed this option with him. Titanium tinted plexi is bronze in color, like sun glasses tinted that color. Titanium tint blocks as much heat and UV radiation as the smoke tint, but lets more light in. It is much better for night ops. Charlie Kuss ---- Glen Matejcek wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" > > > Hey all- > > I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm > concerned about having the tint for night flight. I've checked the > archives, but found nothing useful. For those who have 'been > there, done that', what are your observations / recommendations? > Obviously, it will affect vision to some extent, but is it at all > significant in the real world? Would you do it again? > > Thanks in advance- > > > Glen Matejcek > aerobubba@earthlink.net > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:28:39 AM PST US From: "George Inman" Subject: RV-List: Nipple on spider too tight 1.67 SARE_ADLTSUB2 Contains possible adult words --> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" I need to change the position of the nipple on the spider so I can run the fuel hose by a shorter route. I cannot losen the nipple.It is just too tight. Do they use some locking compound on these? How do I loosen it? George Inman ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:31:31 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Tinted canopies From: "Chuck Jensen" --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" Glen, I have fairly dark tinted windows in a Velocity. Night flying is not a particular problem as the contrast between lights and dark background is still evident, so landmark recognition is still good. If there is a downside to the tinted windows, it is taxing at night. A robust landing/taxi light helps visibility...much better than a white cane. This is the only area were you'll notice a negative difference with tinted windows (IMHO). Now, the benefits of the tint...and they are many. Primary among them is the heat gain, when parked outside during the summer, is sharply reduced and the light infiltration during flight is much more manageable, though in-your-face sunlight is still intolerable and requires some kind of blockage. These advantages are particularly important for the big green house of the RV. Would I go with the tint again? Absolutely. The drawbacks are minor compared to the advantages. I'm unfamiliar with titanium tinted windows but with the right color scheme, it could be way into the cool-zone. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glen Matejcek Subject: RV-List: Tinted canopies --> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" Hey all- I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm concerned about having the tint for night flight. I've checked the archives, but found nothing useful. For those who have 'been there, done that', what are your observations / recommendations? Obviously, it will affect vision to some extent, but is it at all significant in the real world? Would you do it again? Thanks in advance- Glen Matejcek aerobubba@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:55:16 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: [ Arthur P. Loring, Jr ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! From: Email List Photo Shares --> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Arthur P. Loring, Jr Lists: RV-List,RV8-List Subject: RV-8 Instrument Panel Access http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/loringsrv8@comcast.net.11.06.2005/index.html o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures@matronics.com ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:19:08 AM PST US From: Chuck Subject: Re: RV-List: Nipple on spider too tight --> RV-List message posted by: Chuck Okay guys & gals... Now you all have gone and got me in trouble with my Misses. When she saw the subject "Nipple on spider too tight" she said: "So you're going to Porn sites now huh ?" Great, just great. She'll probably tell her Divirce Attorney 'bout this too. :-) George Inman wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" I need to change the position of the nipple on the spider so I can run the fuel hose by a shorter route. I cannot losen the nipple.It is just too tight. Do they use some locking compound on these? How do I loosen it? George Inman --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 11:39:09 AM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: RV-List: Wheel/tire balancing device picture --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee The rod-like device you see between the two metal plates goes in the axle area. It does not seem to have any internal bearings. Check with your local mechanic for such a device. I am not sure how you would do it without this device. http://www.pcisys.net/~ronlee/RV6A/BalancingDevice.jpg Ron Lee ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 11:52:21 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Nipple on spider too tight --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters George Inman wrote: Did you talk to the spider about this? This sounds like an off-shore medical procedure. Make sure you get waivers from the spider to CYA. ;-) >I cannot losen the nipple.It is just too tight. > Obviously you're working outside your chosen field of knowledge. Best left to a professional. :-[ >Do they use some locking compound on these? > ON A NIPPLE???? :-[ Hmmm. haven't a clue. >How do I loosen it? > Good question. I don't know, but just couldn't resist this answer after my wife read the subject line! :-D Linn do not archive ..... for obvious reasons! > >George Inman > > > > -- Checked by AVG Free Edition. ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:57:28 AM PST US From: "Fly n Low" Subject: RV-List: Ignitions? --> RV-List message posted by: "Fly n Low" Hello all; I have an IO-360-A1A currently with Bendix Mags and "Shower of Sparks" When this engine was installed in an Acrosport II I had great difficulty starting it. I finally did develop a process, but it was always a pain in the ..... I am not sure if the problem was with the "Shower of Sparks" unit or with the Mags. The Right Mag was overhauled and that did not make any difference. Now I must decide whether to keep this ignition or to switch to ElectroAir Electronic Ignition. I actually have both at this time. I have also considered selling both and going to Slick Mags. I have also considered just running one of the Bendix Mags and one of the ElectoAir Electronic Ignitions. While attending an engine building seminar in Kansas City a couple of months ago the instructor indicated a strong dislike for any kind of electronic ignition. He disliked mixing the two even more. Ladies and Gentlemen I really need to make a decision and need to make it now. I am ready to start wiring on my RV-8 and have other issues making this a pressing decision. What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice. Bud Silvers RV-8 in progress. ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:12:29 PM PST US From: Subject: RV-List: Re: High Voltage Problem --> RV-List message posted by: Dear Steve: >From: "Steve Struyk" >Subject: RV-List: High Voltage Problem > >After start-up, with the alternator field on or off, the voltage climbed very >high to over 18 volts. I shut down the engine and restarted and watched again >as the voltage slowly(1 Min.) rose to 18+ volts. This time I put a load on the >system with pitot heat, landing lights and strobes and the voltage dropped and >stayed at about 12.5.It appears that with a load, all looks normal but with no >load it climbs even with the Alt. field off. First Steve, your alternator is screwed up. Get it out of there. There is nothing wrong with the model, brand. Either the rebuilder installed a faulty part or you damaged it by turning it ON/OFF under load and by using a weak battery. 18 volts indicates the internal voltage regulator is regulating to a higher voltage. Also voltage drop under load is also not normal. You should remove and send it back. It seems to hit or miss with the brand of rebuilds Van sells. This is the second time this exact thing has happened. I also think you may have caused the damage by the way you operated it. I'll explain. This is the second time I have heard of this exact condition with a Van ND alternator. HOWEVER I think you are partially to blame Buddy. The other case involved a RV'er who also liked to turn the alternator ON after starting and turned it OFF while the engine was still running, under load. TURNING IT ON AN OFF UNDER LOAD IS BAD. Don't do that, ever. DO NOT SWITCH YOUR ND ALTERNATORS ON AND OFF UNDER LOAD. DON'T DO IT. THERE IS NO REASON TO DO IT. It was not designed that way and is abrupt at best. Think of it. You are making a load dump and surge in the alternator. Also there is a misconception, ND alternators IGN lead is a FIELD wire. IT IS NOT A FIELD WIRE. You do not have a FIELD wire to turn off or on. The IGN wire that comes out of the regulator is the power for the regulator. REMEMBER these are for cars. Think about how the alternator is wired in the car and operates. In a car you do not shut the alternator ON and OFF while it is spinning!!!!! Turn it on before engine start and leave it on until the engine is shut down. The IGN wire is NOT meant to control the alternator. It is the come alive wire and go to sleep wire. Also speaking of wiring the alternator, you should wire it as it was designed for, aka car. Hook up the warning light. If you had it hooked up, it would be on, since it indicates charge and internal faults. There is no reason not to hook the light up. Also if you have remote voltage sense (as the alternator sold by Van does) you should run that direct to the battery. You can tie it to the IGN wire, but that is not how it was designed. In my opinion you should wire it just like it was in the auto application is was meant for. Turning the IGN wire power ON or OFF may not help if you have a problem, as you have seen. So if you do have a problem how do you isolate the alternator? THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN BE SURE TO CONTROL AN ALTERNATOR WITH I-VR, IS PUT A CIRCUT BREAKER IN THE PANEL ON THE ALTERNATOR OUT PUT LEAD (B-LEAD) THAT YOU CAN PULL MANUALLY. YOU MAY NEVER NEED TO PULL THE CB. PULL THE CB IF THERE IS AN ALTERNATOR FAILURE. DO NOT USE AN OV MODULE OR CROW BAR WITH I-VR ND ALTERNATORS OR YOU WILL DAMAGE THEM. DO NOT INSTALL A OV CROW BAR ON THIS ALTERNATOR. Some like to use fuses on the B-lead under the cowl. That is nice but you don't have absolute control and can't assume the IGN wire will shut the alterantor down . The idea of running the B-lead into the cockpit will make noise, is way over blown. Back in the old days regulators where mechanical and had relays that where electrically noisy. Modern I-VR alternators like the ND will not produce any more noise in the system because you run it to a CB in the panel, as some suggest. However whatever the reason your alternator failed, you damaged it by turning it on/off under load, the weak battery or the part was just bad, take it out and send it back. It is definitely not operating properly. >The battery is an Odyssey and is about three years old ( I wanted it on hand >during the building of the electrical system) and not holding a charge well. >could this be the culprit? Yes, GET THAT OUT OF THERE. Yes a weak battery is hard on alternators and the battery is your safety buffer to alternator problems. A strong battery will absorb alternator problems. There is no reason to fly with a weak battery. >The Alternator is a 60 amp. from Van's. Could it be a regulator gone bad within >it? I don't see how with the field switched off but electrons are a big mystery >to me. Not all ND alternators are ND alterantors. Rebuilders use aftermarket non-OEM parts. Also you don't know what was replaced or what was re-used. Not all rebuilders are the same and not all aftermarket parts are the same. There are at least 2 or 3 different part manufactures (China) making parts for alternators. Whether they are as good as OEM original ND parts, made in Japan, is open to debate. As I said this is only the *come alive* power. Once the alternator is running it gets power thru the battery and B-lead. Some ND alternators will not shut down with the IGN wire de-energize after the unit is spinning. I do not have this model to test. However like the previous RV'er one symptom of the condition was the IGN wire would not shut the alternator down. To repeat the IGN wire function is not to turn the alternator ON or OFF under load. Think of it as the wake up signal and the go to sleep signal. I Love the ND alternator but the company that Van buys his rebuild units are a little suspect. You could go down to Pep Boys and buy the same unit (LASTER #14684) for less than what Van sells it for. The unit is found on the following: (1988-87) Chevrolet Sprint 1.0L (1995-86) Suzuki Samurai 1.3L (1989) Suzuki Sidekick 1.3L You can also get them all new made from aftermarket parts. However the auto stores usually carry only rebuilds. You have to go thru an auto electrical specialty shop to order new units . I may be able to get you a NEW one at discount, less than what Van sells rebuilt units for, but they are back ordered right now. >Any thoughts and ideas would be appreciated. >Steve Struyk RV-8, N842S St. Charles, MO Take it out, send it back and wait. If you are in a hurry you can go to Pep Boys and buy one. I found that Pep Boys sells a good brand of rebuilds. The good part is it will have a warranty and be cheaper than what Van sells them for. If you can wait, I can see about getting a new unit for you. Not all rebuild companies are the same. I would like to know who rebuilds the alternators Van sells. There are about 3 major companies that rebuild alternators. Several companies manufacture after market components for ND alternators. Ideal would be get an all NEW ND alternator with all new OEM genuine ND parts. Since the unit Van sells is for an application no longer in production, so the we are stuck with junkyard, rebuilt or NEW from aftermarket parts on this particular model. You can get them all new made from aftermarket parts. I may be able to get you a NEW one at discount, but they are back ordered right now. IT may take a few weeks to get one. The cost will be way less than $200 and that is NEW not rebuilt. Let me know. >So very close to first flight! Don't rush it, don't fly with this alternator. George --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 12:18:41 PM PST US From: James Clark Subject: Re: RV-List: Ignitions? --> RV-List message posted by: James Clark We have the ElectroAir unit (from Jeff Rose) on our RV6 (O-320, 160 HP) along with one mag and it is definitely an improvement over the mag. Better starting. SMoother running.No drop in RPM when the mag is turned off (it is providing the sparks so much better than a mag that the mag is not adding anything). You get most of the "bang" from having the first eletronic ignition. Have a mag running along as "backup" is good belt and suspenders in my book. Also if the mag is an impulse mag you can start and run even if the old battery is getting a bit low (as in dies during flight). I am building another RV and am trying the Lightspeed Plasma II+ in it. If I were start from zero I would look into the E-Mag and P-Mag. Give the scenario you mentioned, you already have the ElectroAir, I would DEFINITELY put one of the units in along with one mag. I would keep the second unit as a "spare" as Jeff said that he is no longer selling the units BUT he still SUPPORTS the units in the field. I suspect though that the units will outlast the engine on the plane and by the time you need a new engine there will be other proven options. James On 11/6/05, Fly n Low wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Fly n Low" > > Hello all; > > I have an IO-360-A1A currently with Bendix Mags and "Shower of Sparks" > > When this engine was installed in an Acrosport II I had great difficulty > starting it. I finally did develop a process, but it was always a pain in > the ..... > > I am not sure if the problem was with the "Shower of Sparks" unit or with > the Mags. The Right Mag was overhauled and that did not make any > difference. > > Now I must decide whether to keep this ignition or to switch to ElectroAir > Electronic Ignition. I actually have both at this time. I have also > considered selling both and going to Slick Mags. I have also considered > just > running one of the Bendix Mags and one of the ElectoAir Electronic > Ignitions. > > While attending an engine building seminar in Kansas City a couple of > months > ago the instructor indicated a strong dislike for any kind of electronic > ignition. He disliked mixing the two even more. > > Ladies and Gentlemen I really need to make a decision and need to make it > now. I am ready to start wiring on my RV-8 and have other issues making > this > a pressing decision. > > What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice. > > Bud Silvers > RV-8 in progress. > > > , > > -- This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at james@nextupventures.com . ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 12:23:28 PM PST US From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: Re: RV-List: Ignitions? --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fly n Low" Subject: RV-List: Ignitions? > --> RV-List message posted by: "Fly n Low" > > > What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice. > > Bud Silvers > RV-8 in progress. > I have one Electroair and one standard mag on my RV-6's O-320. I've been satisfied by the performance of the combination, and like the idea of having a mag back-up to the electronic ignition. My only concern about non-standard ignition systsems is the thin support network. If my mag goes south at any airport with an A&P or AI, he has a parts source and can get parts in 24 hours, putting me back in the air in a couple of days maximum. Many shops stock the common mag repair parts, so same day service is possible. This probably isn't the case with the Electroair or any other limited volume ignition system. KB ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 12:26:43 PM PST US From: Greg Grigson Subject: RV-List: Slider tip-forward canopy madification --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson Looking for any drawings, photos, info, etc. on how the slider tip-forward mod that some clever guys have made is constructed. Seems like a great solution to allow easy acess to the -6/7/9 baggage area. Aloha and mahalo. Greg N-79PT (still in test flight phase) --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 12:36:02 PM PST US From: "james frierson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Tinted canopies --> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" A buddy of mine has a 4 with a custom made sliding canopy. He used the original canopy for the sliding part but used some tinted Plexiglas for the wind screen. It didn't look to dark but he found that flying at night was a problem but the main problem was flying during the day with some WX around. It was hard to see it any precipitation directly in front of the plane. He changed it to clear. Scott >From: "Chuck Jensen" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tinted canopies >Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 12:29:19 -0500 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" > >Glen, > >I have fairly dark tinted windows in a Velocity. Night flying is not a >particular problem as the contrast between lights and dark background is >still evident, so landmark recognition is still good. If there is a >downside to the tinted windows, it is taxing at night. A robust >landing/taxi light helps visibility...much better than a white cane. >This is the only area were you'll notice a negative difference with >tinted windows (IMHO). > >Now, the benefits of the tint...and they are many. Primary among them >is the heat gain, when parked outside during the summer, is sharply >reduced and the light infiltration during flight is much more >manageable, though in-your-face sunlight is still intolerable and >requires some kind of blockage. These advantages are particularly >important for the big green house of the RV. Would I go with the tint >again? Absolutely. The drawbacks are minor compared to the advantages. > >I'm unfamiliar with titanium tinted windows but with the right color >scheme, it could be way into the cool-zone. > >Chuck > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glen Matejcek >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Tinted canopies > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" > > >Hey all- > >I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm >concerned about having the tint for night flight. I've checked the >archives, but found nothing useful. For those who have 'been >there, done that', what are your observations / recommendations? >Obviously, it will affect vision to some extent, but is it at all >significant in the real world? Would you do it again? > >Thanks in advance- > > >Glen Matejcek >aerobubba@earthlink.net > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 12:46:18 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Tinted canopies From: "Chuck Jensen" --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" Scott, That's an interesting observation. I was going to point out in my earlier post that a minor benefit of the tinted windscreen was it seem to reduce washout from sun glare/diffusion and made discerning inflight weather a little better. All in the eye of the beholder. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of james frierson Subject: RE: RV-List: Tinted canopies --> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" A buddy of mine has a 4 with a custom made sliding canopy. He used the original canopy for the sliding part but used some tinted Plexiglas for the wind screen. It didn't look to dark but he found that flying at night was a problem but the main problem was flying during the day with some WX around. It was hard to see it any precipitation directly in front of the plane. He changed it to clear. Scott >From: "Chuck Jensen" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RE: RV-List: Tinted canopies >Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 12:29:19 -0500 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" > >Glen, > >I have fairly dark tinted windows in a Velocity. Night flying is not a >particular problem as the contrast between lights and dark background is >still evident, so landmark recognition is still good. If there is a >downside to the tinted windows, it is taxing at night. A robust >landing/taxi light helps visibility...much better than a white cane. >This is the only area were you'll notice a negative difference with >tinted windows (IMHO). > >Now, the benefits of the tint...and they are many. Primary among them >is the heat gain, when parked outside during the summer, is sharply >reduced and the light infiltration during flight is much more >manageable, though in-your-face sunlight is still intolerable and >requires some kind of blockage. These advantages are particularly >important for the big green house of the RV. Would I go with the tint >again? Absolutely. The drawbacks are minor compared to the advantages. > >I'm unfamiliar with titanium tinted windows but with the right color >scheme, it could be way into the cool-zone. > >Chuck > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glen Matejcek >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Tinted canopies > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" > > >Hey all- > >I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm >concerned about having the tint for night flight. I've checked the >archives, but found nothing useful. For those who have 'been >there, done that', what are your observations / recommendations? >Obviously, it will affect vision to some extent, but is it at all >significant in the real world? Would you do it again? > >Thanks in advance- > > >Glen Matejcek >aerobubba@earthlink.net > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 12:48:26 PM PST US From: Subject: RV-List: Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) --> RV-List message posted by: Dear John and jdoody727: >From: John Huft >Subject: Re: RV-List: High Voltage Problem >Steve, I assume the lower voltage with load was at low RPM? If so, it >sounds like the field is shorted to +12...could be a bad regulator, or >bad wiring. A weak battery wouldn't act like that. > >John John: This is common miss understanding. The I-VR ND alternator does not have a field wire, or at least a field wire you can see. The IGN wire is the regulators power on/off lead. The control of the field (to ground) is by a field control transistor and is controlled by the internal voltage regulator. Once running the field and regulator have power thru the B-lead. Now the IGN wire can command the field to shut down thru the IGN wire (come alive/sleep wire), but in Steve's case the IGN wire would not shut the alternator down once running. This was part of the symptom of this failure. If you did have direct access to the field and could open the field wire, you would shut the alternator down. However the field wire is behind the I-VR and inside the alternator, so we don't have direct access to it. Is this a problem? Well no and YOU DON'T need an OV module to protect an I-VR alternator. (below) You are correct that most external regulators vary a +12 volt field wire to control output (type "B"), but most internal VR's are different. The field wire is internal and the rotor (field) always has +12 volts on it (from the B-lead/battery). It is actually an "A" type regulator that controls to ground (negative side of the rotor or field). So I guess you are saying the rotor is shorted to ground. If this was the case it would go to full output, which is way over 18 volts. This has never happened, but some stories and rumors have reported it happening. However they are stories with no proof or facts. For this to happen internally would be a very rare scenario. There are also internal protections for this built into the IC voltage regulator. George >From: jdoody727@comcast.net >Subject: Re: RV-List: High Voltage Problem> > >Dear Steve, > >Could very well be the voltage regulator. Do you have over voltage protection >installed? B&C sells a fairly inexpensive ( about $45) over voltage unit. >I wish it was installed when my regulator went. At least it's there now. First this is a big big misconception. ND alternators DO have OV protection. In fact there are no real cases of extreme OV in ND alternators. Now +18 volts is not good, but a true OV condition (field short) would produce very high voltage , well past 18 volts. In Steve's case it is a partial failure and the regulator is not stable, but a true OV is way extreme. For a condition like this to occur in a ND alternator would require a very rare unlikely failure. Also you would see signs of impending failure, giving time to shut the B-lead down manually (pull the CB). If you read the technical data supplied with internally voltage regulated alternators, I-VR, tell you to NOT to ground or arc the B-lead (out put). Also it warns not to run with out the battery connected to the battery. With the crow bar you install a relay in series with the output. In theory the relay opens when a OV is detected. First you short the B-lead than abruptly cut it off from the battery. ALL BAD. The problem is OV modules have faults trips (often) and damage alternators. OV module you speak of is the "Crow Bar". This part is connected to a CB and a relay. VAN DOES NOT RECOMMEND THIS AND IT VOIDS THE WARREN TY. All the parts would cost about $100 total. The Relay goes on the alternators out put line (B-lead). When crow bar sees a high voltage it SHORTS the CB and B-lead to ground, shorting the alternator to ground until the CB pops. The CB opens, taking power away form the normally open b-lead relay. When the relay opens you will have a large internal arc inside the relay. All this grounding and arcing will cause the ND alternator to be damage. This is not a normal thing a good alternator should see. Crow bar can have faults trips. Some transient action like landing lights can cause a nuisance trip. If this happens while a good alternator is turning, making power it will fry it. Remember the crow bar is SHORTING DIRECT TO GROUND. This is harsh. Many do have the OV module on their I-VR ND alternator but you are adding more weight, parts, cost and possible failure points. ND alternators are VERY safe and reliable. OK so the question is, your ND alternator has a failure and is not regulating voltage normally. What do you do? Well you should have a CB on the panel for the B-lead (alternator output). If there is any problem indicated by your Hi/Lo volt light (which you should have) just reach over and pull the CB. Of all the ND alternator problems most have are benign, meaning they just stop producing power. OV conditions of any kind are rare. I don't know of any documented extreme OV condition. Some suggest you use a big fuse under the cowl for the B-lead to avoid bring the B-lead into the cockpit for noise reasons. That is over blown and just not true. Modern alternators are quite, compared to the the old stuff on factory planes. Besides even with old style alternators and external regulators how much noise have you heard in your Piper or Cessna with a B-lead CB on the panel? NONE. Bad grounds are the source of most noise or RFI. If you have a I-VR alternator you should have a CB on the panel and don't use a crow bar. The use of fuses on the B-lead with an I-VR is not recommended because you can not assume the IGN lead will shut it down after a fault, as we see. Get the Big CB on the panel. Internally regulated ND alternators are VERY reliable and safe. Some have been in experimental airplanes for 10 year with no problems and 1000's of hours. I checked the Highway Safety Foundation that tracks all things related to auto safety and consumer affairs. The ND alternator has no Service letters, safety RECALLS or complaints in +25 years .This is not true of all brands of alternators. There have been problems with other brands consistently but not the NipponDenso, such as Hitachi, Bosch, and Ford for example. The products ND designs and build are extensively tested by demanding field test and in the lab. Also the design has evolved from decades of improvement. Internal regulated internal FAN alternators are really the only units made for the consumer since the mid to late 80's for a reason. These devices are well protected from OV and cars have very expensive computers to protect. Now look at the state of the art power makers in Cessna and Pipers. They are based on 50's and 60 's technology. The reason for OV modules was these old 50's and 60's external regulated alternators went OV often because they had no internal protection. The modern ND alternator has OV protection. Steve's problem shows nothing is perfect, but I have two Acuras. One with 125,000 miles and another with 230,000 miles. Together that is 25 years of service and the ND alternators are still going strong. On my RV-4 I had 800 hours of trouble free service on my ND alternator before I sold the plane. Another ND has been on a Thorpe T-18 for 10 year with no problems. The issue of bad rebuilds is another topic. George --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 01:22:06 PM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins > ... > > First this is a big big misconception. ND alternators DO have OV protection. In fact > there are no real cases of extreme OV in ND alternators. Now +18 volts is not good, but > a true OV condition (field short) would produce very high voltage , well past 18 volts. In > Steve's case it is a partial failure and the regulator is not stable, but a true OV is way > extreme. For a condition like this to occur in a ND alternator would require a very rare > unlikely failure. Also you would see signs of impending failure, giving time to shut the > B-lead down manually (pull the CB). .... George, Do you think that the ND alternator is designed with an OV limit of 18v? What kind of voltage would one expect on a true OV failure? -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 finishing do not archive ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 02:45:19 PM PST US From: "Ed Holyoke" Subject: RE: RV-List: Slider tip-forward canopy madification --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" Try this: http://www.aircraftextras.com/Tip-Up-Slider1.htm Pax, Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg Grigson Subject: RV-List: Slider tip-forward canopy madification --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson Looking for any drawings, photos, info, etc. on how the slider tip-forward mod that some clever guys have made is constructed. Seems like a great solution to allow easy acess to the -6/7/9 baggage area. Aloha and mahalo. Greg N-79PT (still in test flight phase) --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 02:45:19 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Ignitions? From: Doug Weiler --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler On 11/6/05 2:20 PM, "Kyle Boatright" wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" > > > ----- Original > >> >> What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice. >> >> Bud Silvers >> RV-8 in progress. >> > I would also like to get some more "testimonials" on EI especially the Lightspeed units. My RV-4 has 250 hours on a new Aerosport engine with Slick mags and has been 100% trouble free. But I am attracted to the fuel savings and smoothness of the Lightspeed EI systems (I am considering installing one Plasma III unit). Several local RVs are flying with these units (one uses a dual Lightspeed system) and everyone has had no issues whatsoever. Regardless, anyone else's comments on the Lightspeed EI system would be appreciated. Doug Weiler Pres, MN WING ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 02:47:43 PM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: Ignitions? --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton On 6 Nov 2005, at 14:55, Fly n Low wrote: > While attending an engine building seminar in Kansas City a couple > of months > ago the instructor indicated a strong dislike for any kind of > electronic > ignition. He disliked mixing the two even more. > > Ladies and Gentlemen I really need to make a decision and need to > make it > now. I am ready to start wiring on my RV-8 and have other issues > making this > a pressing decision. Why did the instructor not like electronic ignition, or mixing EI and mags? If he gave a reason, then we can discuss it on its merits. If he didn't give a reason, then the information is useless to you. If you go with dual EI, you obviously need to pay very, very close attention to your electrical system design. You need a design that will continue to power at least one ignition after any single failure. Adding one EI probably gives you about of 90% of the performance increase that you would get from a dual EI setup. Lots of people are running one EI and one mag with no ill effects. This is probably the best solution (unless you either want to have a P-Mag, or a very complicated electrical system). Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 03:33:06 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Slider tip-forward canopy modification From: James H Nelson --> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson Greg, Just contact "aircraft extras.com" as he is the one who designed the tip up for the slider. I purchased one for my "9-A" that I'm buiding. It is a great device to get into the baggage compartment. Jim Nelson ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 03:35:26 PM PST US From: "Kelly McMullen" Subject: Re: RV-List: Ignitions? --> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" A properly working shower of sparks ignition will start better than any impulse coupled mag. Perhaps the electronic ignitions are bettter. However, overhauling the right mag does absolutely Zero for starting, because it isn't used on a shower of sparks system until the ignition key is returned from start to both. The shower of sparks drives a retard set of breaker points in the Left mag, firing it at TDC with multiple sparks generated by the vibrator. If you have starting problems either the vibrator output is bad, or the breaker points are bad. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Fly n Low" Subject: RV-List: Ignitions? --> RV-List message posted by: "Fly n Low" Hello all; I have an IO-360-A1A currently with Bendix Mags and "Shower of Sparks" When this engine was installed in an Acrosport II I had great difficulty starting it. I finally did develop a process, but it was always a pain in the ..... I am not sure if the problem was with the "Shower of Sparks" unit or with the Mags. The Right Mag was overhauled and that did not make any difference. Now I must decide whether to keep this ignition or to switch to ElectroAir Electronic Ignition. I actually have both at this time. I have also considered selling both and going to Slick Mags. I have also considered just running one of the Bendix Mags and one of the ElectoAir Electronic Ignitions. While attending an engine building seminar in Kansas City a couple of months ago the instructor indicated a strong dislike for any kind of electronic ignition. He disliked mixing the two even more. Ladies and Gentlemen I really need to make a decision and need to make it now. I am ready to start wiring on my RV-8 and have other issues making this a pressing decision. What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice. Bud Silvers RV-8 in progress. ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 05:24:17 PM PST US From: Warren Gretz Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? --> RV-List message posted by: Warren Gretz Hello Doug, I do not have my website updated yet to include the new GA-1000. Here is some information on it. Hello Builders, Many of you have heard about our new heated Pitot tube that has been in the development stage for a very long time. THE NEW GRETZ AERO GA-1000 IS NOW AVAILABLE! The GA-1000 is a totally new design of a heated Pitot tube. It is molded from a very high-tech polymer material that has nearly the same thermal conductivity as that of metal. This new design has electronics embedded in the Pitot tube. It also comes with a small electronic control module to control the heat of the Pitot as well as to provide information to the pilot regarding thermal and heater performance of the Pitot tube. This is done by way of a 3/16 inch diameter multi-conductor cable that has LED's already attached that will mount conveniently on the panel. The Pitot tube has a very modern and sleek shape that is pleasing to the eye. It is very dark grey to black in color and the GA-1000 will fit the Gretz Aero mounting bracket kits that were designed for other popular Pitot tubes. The GA-1000 Pitot tubes come with: the electronic control module, the LED's and cable, Pitot mounting screws, electronic control module mounting hardware, and of course, complete instructions for installation and use. The Gretz Aero price is $425 with shipping included in the US. If you prefer an unheated Pitot tube, I also sell the GA-500, a Pitot that is the same shape and color, but does not include the heater, electionics, instructions, etc. It will mount into the same Gretz Aero mounting bracket kits. The unheated Pitot sells for $125. The GA-1000 is not yet listed on the Gretz Aero website, but it should be soon. Warren Gretz Gretz Aero 208-834-2312 ---- wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" > > The pitot on your website is non-heated. Do you have a heated version that > I'm missing? > > Doug Fischer > RV-9A > Jenison, MI > do not archive > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" > > > > > You could buy mine.....they are powdercoated aluminum :) > > Evan Johnson > > www.evansaviationproducts.com > > (530)247-0375 > > (530)351-1776 cell > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Jeff Dowling" > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" > > > > > > > > Speaking of the Gretz mount, mine is rusting after only a year, stored > > > indoors!! > > > > > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling > > > RV-6A, N915JD > > > 235 hours > > > Chicago/Louisville > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "Douglas A. Fischer" > > > To: "RV-9 Matronics List" ; "RV Matronics List" > > > > > > Subject: RV-List: Chrome-plating for Gretz Heated Pitot? > > > > > > > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" > > > > > > > > > Does anyone know a source for vacuum-metalizing for retail customers? > I > > > > was thinking that may be a safe way to put a chrome finish on the > black > > > > plastic Gretz heated pitot to match the mount. I think the old chrome > > > > dip-in-chemicals route used to plate metal would damage the pitot. > > > > > > > > Doug Fischer > > > > RV-9A Wings > > > > Jenison, MI > > > > > > > > Do not archive > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Warren Gretz Gretz Aero ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 07:35:52 PM PST US From: sarg314 Subject: RV-List: ignition wiring --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 The Lycoming manula for my O-360 shows that each magneto is used to power 2 top spark plugs and 2 lower spark plugs. Is there any reason why one mag shouldn't handle all the top plugs and the other all the bottom plugs? I've actually got 1 mag plus a Lightspeed CDI system. It would be more convenient to use the Lightspeed system on the bottom plugs and the mag for the top plugs. -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, baffles. ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 08:04:02 PM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: RV-List: ignition wiring --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee >I've actually got 1 mag plus a Lightspeed CDI system. It would be more >convenient to use the Lightspeed system on the bottom plugs and the mag >for the top plugs. That is how mine is set up but the LSE powers the top plugs. I am not sure if it matters which. Check the installation instructions. Ron Lee ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 08:37:59 PM PST US From: "J D Newsum" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: High Voltage Problem --> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" George, I want to use a Suzuki ND alternator in my RV6. I need a 60 amp capable one and am told that the 1987 Suzuki Samurai model is capable of this. I would prefer to get a new one rather that rebuilt but I expect that trying to buy one out right with no core from a Suzuki dealer would be pricy. In your previous post, you mentioned the possiblility of getting a NEW one at a discount. Where do you recommend getting a new one in lieu of rebuilt one from PEP BOYS. JD You can also get them all new made from aftermarket parts. However the auto stores usually carry only rebuilds. You have to go thru an auto electrical specialty shop to order new units . I may be able to get you a NEW one at discount, less than what Van sells rebuilt units for, but they are back ordered right now. --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 08:56:26 PM PST US From: "Matt Johnson" Subject: RV-List: When to buy engine? (not processed: message from valid local sender) --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" I am receiving my quickbuild fuselage next week. How much longer until I need to buy the engine? Or should I ask, what needs to be done if I have the QB fuse before needing the engine? - Matt ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 09:14:00 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: High Voltage Problem --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer J D Newsum wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" > >George, > >I want to use a Suzuki ND alternator in my RV6. I need a 60 amp capable one >and am told that the 1987 Suzuki Samurai model is capable of this. I would >prefer to get a new one rather that rebuilt but I expect that trying to buy >one out right with no core from a Suzuki dealer would be pricy. In your >previous post, you mentioned the possiblility of getting a NEW one at a >discount. Where do you recommend getting a new one in lieu of rebuilt one >from PEP BOYS. > >JD > > > I don't know used seems to work pretty well also, the $45.00 auto wrecking yard Suzuki ND in my RV-6 is going on 17 years now without any problems. :-) Jerry do not archive ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 09:52:26 PM PST US From: Dave Nellis Subject: Re: RV-List: ignition wiring --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Nellis The lower plugs tend to foul more. If you lost your top mag, the lower mag plugs will foul more quickly. --- sarg314 wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 > > > The Lycoming manula for my O-360 shows that each > magneto is used to > power 2 top spark plugs and 2 lower spark plugs. Is > there any reason > why one mag shouldn't handle all the top plugs and > the other all the > bottom plugs? > > I've actually got 1 mag plus a Lightspeed CDI > system. It would be more > convenient to use the Lightspeed system on the > bottom plugs and the mag > for the top plugs. > > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A, baffles. > > > > Click on > about > provided > www.buildersbooks.com, > Admin. > _-> > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > > > > __________________________________ http://farechase.yahoo.com ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 11:10:19 PM PST US From: "Rocket Shop" Subject: RV-List: Looking for good used ANR headset --> RV-List message posted by: "Rocket Shop" I'm looking for a good used ANR headset for my nephew who is learning to fly. Anyone upgraded recently have something for sale? Please reply off list. Russ Werner HRII do not archive