Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:17 AM - What's Being Said... (Matt Dralle)
2. 04:14 AM - Re: ignition wiring (linn walters)
3. 04:17 AM - Re: ignition wiring (Pat Hatch)
4. 05:32 AM - Re: Looking for good used ANR headset (Dan Checkoway)
5. 08:43 AM - Re: Tinted canopies (Bob J)
6. 09:17 AM - Re: ignition wiring (LarryRobertHelming)
7. 09:31 AM - Re: Ignitions? (LarryRobertHelming)
8. 02:22 PM - Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) ()
9. 03:54 PM - Re: Slider tip-forward canopy madification ()
10. 04:37 PM - Solution to two radios/one antenna quandary (Ron Lee)
11. 04:50 PM - Re: ignition wiring (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
12. 04:57 PM - baffle penetration (sarg314)
13. 05:27 PM - Re: baffle penetration (Dan Checkoway)
14. 06:33 PM - Re: baffle penetration (Pat Hatch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | What's Being Said... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
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during this year's List Fund Raiser! If you haven't made your List Contribution
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there's no advertising or other forms of direct commercialism on these forums,
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Members have been including some very nice comments along with their Contributions
this year. Please take a minute to read over some of the thoughts your fellow
Listers have expressed regarding the Lists and what they mean to them. What
do the Lists mean to you...?
Please make a Contribution to support the Lists here:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
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==================== What Listers Are Saying ====================
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: ignition wiring |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Typically, the lower plugs are the most troublesome as they foul with
oil and lead deposits before the top plugs do. If you lost the mag
connected to the top plugs then not only would you have reduced power
from having only one plug in the cylinder firing, that plug may not be
at it's optimum performance. Separating the workload just reduces the
chances of things getting more exciting, although I think the reduction
is very minor.
Linn
do not archive
sarg314 wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>The Lycoming manula for my O-360 shows that each magneto is used to
>power 2 top spark plugs and 2 lower spark plugs. Is there any reason
>why one mag shouldn't handle all the top plugs and the other all the
>bottom plugs?
>
>I've actually got 1 mag plus a Lightspeed CDI system. It would be more
>convenient to use the Lightspeed system on the bottom plugs and the mag
>for the top plugs.
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, baffles.
>
>
>
>
--
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
I think this would be a good solution and it is how I have mine set up. I
am told that the bottom plugs will stay cleaner with the hotter spark of the
EI system and the top plugs tend to foul less anyway so put them on the mag.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
The Lycoming manula for my O-360 shows that each magneto is used to
power 2 top spark plugs and 2 lower spark plugs. Is there any reason
why one mag shouldn't handle all the top plugs and the other all the
bottom plugs?
I've actually got 1 mag plus a Lightspeed CDI system. It would be more
convenient to use the Lightspeed system on the bottom plugs and the mag
for the top plugs.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, baffles.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for good used ANR headset |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
If you can't find a used headset, something else to consider may be
Lightspeed's *reconditioned* headsets. They sell them at a discount. Both
of my headsets are reconditioned Lightspeeds.
http://www.anrheadsets.com/productsR20xl.asp
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rocket Shop" <russ@wernerworld.com>
Subject: RV-List: Looking for good used ANR headset
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rocket Shop" <russ@wernerworld.com>
>
>
> I'm looking for a good used ANR headset for my nephew who is learning to
> fly. Anyone upgraded recently have something for sale?
>
> Please reply off list.
>
> Russ Werner
> HRII
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tinted canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
Glen, I have one of Todd's canopies on my F1. I settled with the gray tint
that was next to the darkest sample...in other words, there was one that was
pretty dark but this wasn't the tint I chose. Todd told me that the tint I
chose was FAA-legal for night flying. With the bronze tint, looking thru the
samples he sent me, outside colors shifted towards the bronze but didn't
with the gray tint.
I'm pleased my canopy, and don't think nighttime visibility is going to be a
problem with the medium gray tint I chose. I attached the canopy to the
frame with Sikaflex. Other than being more work than drilling/riveting the
canopy on, I'm glad I went that route as well.
Todd went the extra mile to make me happy and like to let people know about
guys like him who know their business depends on having a good reputation.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> I'm considering a tinted canopy from Todd's canopies for my -8, but I'm
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: ignition wiring |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Tom, what you want to do is what I did in wiring my mag and EI. I have my
mag powering all the lower plugs. More convenient for my installation. I
have not had any problems with 75 hours of usage. Plugs all look fine at
inspection.
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: ignition wiring
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> The Lycoming manula for my O-360 shows that each magneto is used to
> power 2 top spark plugs and 2 lower spark plugs. Is there any reason
> why one mag shouldn't handle all the top plugs and the other all the
> bottom plugs?
>
> I've actually got 1 mag plus a Lightspeed CDI system. It would be more
> convenient to use the Lightspeed system on the bottom plugs and the mag
> for the top plugs.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, baffles.
>
>
>
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
If I were doing it again (after 75 hours of flying behind one impulse mag
and one EI), I would make the same decision. It is the best combination
from safety and performance at an economical price of entry IMHO.
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fly n Low" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Subject: RV-List: Ignitions?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Fly n Low" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
> Hello all;
>
> I have an IO-360-A1A currently with Bendix Mags and "Shower of Sparks"
>
> When this engine was installed in an Acrosport II I had great difficulty
> starting it. I finally did develop a process, but it was always a pain in
> the .....
>
> I am not sure if the problem was with the "Shower of Sparks" unit or with
> the Mags. The Right Mag was overhauled and that did not make any
> difference.
>
> Now I must decide whether to keep this ignition or to switch to ElectroAir
> Electronic Ignition. I actually have both at this time. I have also
> considered selling both and going to Slick Mags. I have also considered
> just
> running one of the Bendix Mags and one of the ElectoAir Electronic
> Ignitions.
>
> While attending an engine building seminar in Kansas City a couple of
> months
> ago the instructor indicated a strong dislike for any kind of electronic
> ignition. He disliked mixing the two even more.
>
> Ladies and Gentlemen I really need to make a decision and need to make it
> now. I am ready to start wiring on my RV-8 and have other issues making
> this
> a pressing decision.
>
> What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice.
>
> Bud Silvers
> RV-8 in progress.
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>George,
>
>Do you think that the ND alternator is designed with an OV
>limit of 18v? What kind of voltage would one expect on a
>true OV failure?
>?
>
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 finishing
Mickey :
It could be a back-up 18v OV mode?
In theory it could pump out the theoretical limit of the weakest component (transistor,
diode, wiring or internal fusible link or current limit device if any).
What is the limit? Depending on the components it could be 60, 100, 130 volts
or more. However there are a few factors that would limit this. Also for this
to happen you need a dead short on the rotor ground.
First the battery is about 12.8 volts. It will absorb and moderate any OV condition,
however his battery was in disrepair. That is why you need a strong battery
and flying with a bad battery reduces your safety margins in many ways. It
may have contributed to the unstable voltage regulation. The battery has a moderating
effect, but if the alternator goes super nova the buss voltage will
rise.
Extreem OV with modern alterantors is rare and never heard of with an internally
regulated ND alternators, but I have heard of the slight OV conditions like
this before. As I said turning the alternator on and off under load, with the
IGN wire, seems to damage the regulator. As I said that is not how it is operated
in the application it was originally design for, a car. My common sense says
we should wire it and operate it the same way in our plane, as the car application
it was meant for.
Second, the components in the alternator will rise to their physical current, voltage
or thermal
limits. When this happens it will FUSE, burn out and go to zero, with a puff of
smoke no doubt. How fast will this happen? Don't know but it will be fast.
As far as the 18 volts it seems the alternator went into a reduced back-up mode
or limp home mode. Clearly it was not doing the job it should. 18 volt is high
but it is not runaway. It also varied with load.
To answer your question, if the field is allowed to go to full buss voltage it
could bootstrap itself to a very high voltage. However for this to happen you
would have to have a rare dead short of the rotor, outside the control of the
VR. Since the wires are internal and well protected, it is unlikely. However
airplane wings come off and crank shafts fail in engines.
The ND specs call for rotor short protection. What does that mean? I don't know
for sure but guess there is some sacrificial parts to fuse a runaway. That is
also on reason not to add the OV module. The alternator no doubt sees a OV trip
of a B-lead realy as a B-lead short and fuses.
George
---------------------------------
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Slider tip-forward canopy madification |
--> RV-List message posted by: <dwhite17@columbus.rr.com>
contact Aircraftextras.com for the kit.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg Grigson" <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Slider tip-forward canopy madification
> --> RV-List message posted by: Greg Grigson <iflyhawaii2@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Looking for any drawings, photos, info, etc. on how the slider tip-forward
> mod that some clever guys have made is constructed. Seems like a great
> solution to allow easy acess to the -6/7/9 baggage area.
>
>
> Aloha and mahalo.
>
> Greg
>
> N-79PT (still in test flight phase)
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Solution to two radios/one antenna quandary |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
A local (00V) RV-4 pilot has come up with a solution to operating two radios
from one antenna. In the process he removed a draggy (and ugly) antenna
from the top of the fuselage.
This only allows operation of one radio at a time and is switched by a toggle
switch on the assembly. I asked if he would be willing to sell these and he
indicated that he would.
If there is any interest in this, email me privately and I will forward
your name
and email to him for follow-up. I don't know what the price is so any such
discussions will between him and potential buyers.
Ron Lee
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
-
Subject: RV-List: ignition wiring
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
The Lycoming manula for my O-360 shows that each magneto is used to
power 2 top spark plugs and 2 lower spark plugs. Is there any reason
why one mag shouldn't handle all the top plugs and the other all the
bottom plugs?
I've actually got 1 mag plus a Lightspeed CDI system. It would be more
convenient to use the Lightspeed system on the bottom plugs and the mag
for the top plugs.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, baffles.
Tom: As has been said, the bottom plugs tend to foul differently than
the top. The top and bottom plugs are split between the mags to even
out the mag drop when doing the mag perfomance checks prior to takeoff.
I have been told that when using one electronic ignition, firing the
bottom plugs with it is a good idea since that system is less affected
by fouling. I know of others with this arrangement and it works fine.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 12
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| Subject: | baffle penetration |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Having AFP on my engine I am going to have to bring the fuel purge line
and a control cable thru the rear engine baffle. I know how to
penetrate a fire wall with these, but not the baffle. I'm guessing the
baffle penetration does not need the degree of care that the firewall does.
Are there grommets or bushings of some sort that will prevent chafing
and yet tolerate the high temperatures that can occur, especially after
the engine is shut down. (it gets as hot as a pizza oven in there!).
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Baffles.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: baffle penetration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I used a sliced AN931-10-14 rubber grommet where my purge valve hose passes
through my rear baffle wall:
http://rvproject.com/images/2003/20031105_grommet.jpg
Still doing fine after many hours and many heat cycles.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (670 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: baffle penetration
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> Having AFP on my engine I am going to have to bring the fuel purge line
> and a control cable thru the rear engine baffle. I know how to
> penetrate a fire wall with these, but not the baffle. I'm guessing the
> baffle penetration does not need the degree of care that the firewall
does.
>
> Are there grommets or bushings of some sort that will prevent chafing
> and yet tolerate the high temperatures that can occur, especially after
> the engine is shut down. (it gets as hot as a pizza oven in there!).
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Baffles.
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | baffle penetration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Tom,
Use the Cable Safe p/n 05-16250 with the 3/16" bushing p/n 05-16251 from
Aircraft Spruce for the control cable. The rubber grommet works OK for the
fuel line. I tried the grommet on my control cable but it chewed right
through it, had to convert to the Cable Safe.
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
Subject: RV-List: baffle penetration
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Having AFP on my engine I am going to have to bring the fuel purge line
and a control cable thru the rear engine baffle. I know how to
penetrate a fire wall with these, but not the baffle. I'm guessing the
baffle penetration does not need the degree of care that the firewall does.
Are there grommets or bushings of some sort that will prevent chafing
and yet tolerate the high temperatures that can occur, especially after
the engine is shut down. (it gets as hot as a pizza oven in there!).
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, Baffles.
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