Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:09 AM - Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) ()
2. 04:50 AM - Tinted canopies (Glen Matejcek)
3. 05:03 AM - Re:Solution to two radios/one antenna quandary (Adams Stephen - Doctors Hosp Augusta)
4. 05:44 AM - Re: Re:Solution to two radios/one antenna quandary (LessDragProd@aol.com)
5. 06:11 AM - Re: Re:Solution to two radios/one antenna quandary (Ron Lee)
6. 07:12 AM - Re: Nipple on spider too tight (Mike Robertson)
7. 12:00 PM - anywhere map sale (james frierson)
8. 12:22 PM - Spark plugs (Charlie Brame)
9. 12:48 PM - Re: Spark plugs (Stephen J. Soule)
10. 01:41 PM - Re: Spark plugs (Kyle Boatright)
11. 02:13 PM - [ Edward O'Connor ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
12. 03:08 PM - Canopy Seal (PGLong@aol.com)
13. 03:24 PM - QB Part Removal Cheat Sheet? ()
14. 05:52 PM - Re: Spark plugs (LarryRobertHelming)
15. 05:52 PM - Re: QB Part Removal Cheat Sheet? (Richard E. Tasker)
16. 07:21 PM - Re: Spark plugs (Ron Lee)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Over voltage module (was: High Voltage Problem ) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Mickey:
You got me thinking. I looked up the specs on the regulator and the over voltage
set point is 17 volts. The regulating voltage range is 14.5 V, +/- 0.3 volts.
I was thinking that the alternator would be OVER VOLTAGE with anything above
14.8 volts.
The over voltage limit of 17 volts is another level. How it defaults to this I
do not know.
As we have seen when the regulator has a bad day it seems to go to this Vov limit.
George
>Do you think that the ND alternator is designed with an OV
>limit of 18v? What kind of voltage would one expect on a
>true OV failure?
>?
>
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 finishing
---------------------------------
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Thanks to all for the replies on canopy tinting- It's a big help!
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE:Solution to two radios/one antenna quandary |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Adams Stephen - Doctors Hosp Augusta" <Stephen.Adams@HCAhealthcare.com>
Not to be critical, but if you're only able to use one radio at a time, why bother
putting 2 radios in the stack with all the associated cost, wiring, switching
mechanism, panel space etc? What if your switch fails and you can't use either
radio? If you're that concerned about the drag from a single antenna, why
not put in a single radio and get a portable for you backup? Just a thought.
Steve Adams
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RE:Solution to two radios/one antenna quandary |
--> RV-List message posted by: LessDragProd@aol.com
Bob Archer (Sportcraft Antenna) has a COM switch (SA-010) that allows the
use of both radios for receive. The active radio is the only one that can
transmit to the single antenna.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 11/8/2005 5:04:42 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Stephen.Adams@HCAhealthcare.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Adams Stephen - Doctors Hosp Augusta"
<Stephen.Adams@HCAhealthcare.com>
Not to be critical, but if you're only able to use one radio at a time, why
bother putting 2 radios in the stack with all the associated cost, wiring,
switching mechanism, panel space etc? What if your switch fails and you can't
use either radio? If you're that concerned about the drag from a single
antenna, why not put in a single radio and get a portable for you backup? Just
a
thought.
Steve Adams
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RE:Solution to two radios/one antenna quandary |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>Not to be critical, but if you're only able to use one radio at a time,
>why bother putting 2 radios in the stack with all the associated cost,
>wiring, switching mechanism, panel space etc? What if your switch fails
>and you can't use either radio? If you're that concerned about the drag
>from a single antenna, why not put in a single radio and get a portable
>for you backup? Just a thought.
>
>Steve Adams
You can be critical. Your position is viable. However, if a person wants
two panel mounted radios, does not want two external antennas and
is willing to use only one at a time...then is offers one way to do it.
Ron Lee
Message 6
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| Subject: | Nipple on spider too tight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
The nipples do not need any sealing compound as they are tapered fittings.
Unfortunately, that does not mean someone may not have used any. The
nipples are made of brass so they screw up fairly easy, and because they are
of a different material than the flow divider housing their expansion factor
is different so that over time they seem to become pretty tight in the
housing. There is no easy solution to getting them out other than trying to
use a closed end wrench. If that does not work then you can try a pair of
vise grips but that may twist the nipple right off leaving the end in the
flow divider housing. Another option is to try and het the housing a little
to loosen up the fitting. But you want to be very careful as too much het
could damage the diaphram inside the flow divider. Sometimes the best way
is to just take the thing off, send it to Precision Airmotive, and tell them
what you want.
Hope this helps.
Mike Robertson
Been there, done that!
>From: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "RV-list matronics" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Nipple on spider too tight
>Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2005 11:27:54 -0600 1.67 SARE_ADLTSUB2
>Contains possible adult words
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
>
> I need to change the position of the nipple
> on the spider so I can run the fuel hose by a shorter route.
> I cannot losen the nipple.It is just too tight.
>Do they use some locking compound on these?
>How do I loosen it?
>
>George Inman
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | anywhere map sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
Anywhere map is having a sale on its software. Software only is $95 VS $289
or a limited time.
Scott
Do not archive
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
My slow built RV-6A quick build is approaching its first engine run. I
need to know what auto plugs are recommended for use with a Jeff Rose
Electronic Ignition. My EI came with wiring for auto spark plugs, but
Jeff Rose no longer recommends using auto plugs. Rather than change out
the wires, I'd like to try the auto plugs.
I am also looking for recommendations for using modified 18mm auto plugs
(reshaped shoulders) versus 14mm plugs with inserts. Any preferences or
recommendations?
I have an IO-320, 160 hp version with one EI system and one mag. The mag
will fire regular aviation plugs on top. The EI will fire the lower
plugs.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule@pfclaw.com>
Hi,
Call Jeff Rose or the new owner Michael Kobylik at 866 494-3002. I put an
Electroair system on in September and found that the installation manual
recommended aviation plugs at this time. I do believe there was a thread a
while back (I've been on and off the list) about the auto plugs causing
rough running and even an episode in which a plug melted.
Steve in Vermont
N227RV RV-6A flying
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Brame
Subject: RV-List: Spark plugs
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
My slow built RV-6A quick build is approaching its first engine run. I need
to know what auto plugs are recommended for use with a Jeff Rose Electronic
Ignition. My EI came with wiring for auto spark plugs, but Jeff Rose no
longer recommends using auto plugs. Rather than change out the wires, I'd
like to try the auto plugs.
I am also looking for recommendations for using modified 18mm auto plugs
(reshaped shoulders) versus 14mm plugs with inserts. Any preferences or
recommendations?
I have an IO-320, 160 hp version with one EI system and one mag. The mag
will fire regular aviation plugs on top. The EI will fire the lower plugs.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
I've been running Autolite 386 plugs in my O-320/Electroair RV-6 for 4+
years with no problems. There is a fair amount of material in the archives
on this subject, and some of it claims that Jeff Rose found the auto plugs
might cost you 4 hp vs aircraft plugs. Another post indicated that Jeff
thought Aircraft plugs held up better. All of this information is second
hand at best, so it might be best to go to the source <Jeff Rose or whoever
currently supports the product> for the latest information.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule@pfclaw.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Spark plugs
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule@pfclaw.com>
>
> Hi,
>
> Call Jeff Rose or the new owner Michael Kobylik at 866 494-3002. I put an
> Electroair system on in September and found that the installation manual
> recommended aviation plugs at this time. I do believe there was a thread a
> while back (I've been on and off the list) about the auto plugs causing
> rough running and even an episode in which a plug melted.
>
> Steve in Vermont
> N227RV RV-6A flying
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Brame
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: Spark plugs
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
>
> My slow built RV-6A quick build is approaching its first engine run. I
> need
> to know what auto plugs are recommended for use with a Jeff Rose
> Electronic
> Ignition. My EI came with wiring for auto spark plugs, but Jeff Rose no
> longer recommends using auto plugs. Rather than change out the wires, I'd
> like to try the auto plugs.
>
> I am also looking for recommendations for using modified 18mm auto plugs
> (reshaped shoulders) versus 14mm plugs with inserts. Any preferences or
> recommendations?
>
> I have an IO-320, 160 hp version with one EI system and one mag. The mag
> will fire regular aviation plugs on top. The EI will fire the lower plugs.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | [ Edward O'Connor ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Edward O'Connor <Edwardoconnor@mac.com>
Lists: RV-List
Subject: Archer Wingtip Antenna in RV-8
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/Edwardoconnor@mac.com.11.08.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
I purchased some "V" strip to use as a weather seal on my RV-4 tip up
canopy. (ACS #05-01900) I know that on the front I need to keep air out therefore
the incoming air would open the V and do its sealing job if I point the seal
inward . However, I'm not sure if I need to do the same on the rest of the
canopy. Which way should I point the seal? Is the balance of the air incoming
or
is it going out? I think the balance of the air would be outgoing,
especially if I had the heat on. That should pressurize the interior so I'm assuming
that the sides and rear of the canopy should have the "V" pointing out. What
have others done? Thanks in advance.
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Message 13
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| Subject: | QB Part Removal Cheat Sheet? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All, I am digging into my 7A QB fuse, and I am wondering if anyone has a "cheat
sheet" that they might share on what parts to remove. I am going through the
manual by each step, and I am quickly finding out that there may be sections
where all but a minor detail has been completed on the QB. Frequently you have
to remove a part (drill out some pop rivets) to access this section. For example,
last night I was drilling out the floor, and it seems you need to remove
the baggage section and the front (spar) section of the floor (but not the
middle section). Outside of trial and error, is there a rule of thumb on what
needs removed? Sometime you can't see the part to verify whether its been completed
without removing something. BTW...after doing the slow-build wings, this
QB is a blast! It sure seems like cheating.... Scott7A Fuse
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
When I went through this a year ago, Jeff told me the best thing to do was
use the aircraft plugs. Practically no chance of problems if properly
installed. He has worked with both. My plugs have gone through 75 hours so
far and the EI is working great. Me, I decided that spending a few $$ more
to accommodate the designer's recommendations after designer seeing
thousands of hours of users using his system was good enough for me. I am
glad -- I did not trade a few bucks for added risk. YMMV.
Best wishes.
Indiana Larry in Evansville, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker 75 hours and still
grinning. Keep the grin. Keep the grin.
----- Original Message -----
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
>
> My slow built RV-6A quick build is approaching its first engine run. I
> need to know what auto plugs are recommended for use with a Jeff Rose
> Electronic Ignition. My EI came with wiring for auto spark plugs, but
> Jeff Rose no longer recommends using auto plugs. Rather than change out
> the wires, I'd like to try the auto plugs.
>
> I am also looking for recommendations for using modified 18mm auto plugs
> (reshaped shoulders) versus 14mm plugs with inserts. Any preferences or
> recommendations?
>
> I have an IO-320, 160 hp version with one EI system and one mag. The mag
> will fire regular aviation plugs on top. The EI will fire the lower
> plugs.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: QB Part Removal Cheat Sheet? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> <snip> BTW...after doing the slow-build wings, this QB is a blast! It sure seems
like cheating.... Scott7A Fuse
>
It is! :-)
do not archive
----
Please Note:
No trees were destroyed in the sending of this message. We do concede, however,
that a significant number of electrons may have been temporarily inconvenienced.
----
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
I have used auto plugs for about 600-650 hours with my Lightspeed EI
with no problems. Just replace instead of cleaning and regapping.
Seems like mine are something like BR8ES but go by what your
EI maker suggests.
Ron Lee
do not archive
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