Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:44 AM - Re: Spark plugs (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
2. 08:04 AM - Re: Spark plugs (James Clark)
3. 08:36 AM - Re: Wing Tip Comm Antennas (LessDragProd@aol.com)
4. 08:52 AM - fumoto T202N (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
5. 08:56 AM - Re: Ignitions? (Flynlow)
6. 09:04 AM - Re: Spark plugs (Bob J)
7. 09:44 AM - Re: Spark plugs (Dan Checkoway)
8. 10:20 AM - First Engine Run (Jerry2DT@AOL.COM)
9. 11:02 AM - Re: Spark plugs (Ed Holyoke)
10. 12:44 PM - Re: First Engine Run (LarryRobertHelming)
11. 05:03 PM - Re: fumoto T202N (Larry Bowen)
12. 06:25 PM - Major/minor (Ed Holyoke)
13. 06:50 PM - Re: First Engine Run (Dave Bristol)
14. 07:48 PM - RV Prop on Ebay (Bud Newhall)
15. 07:56 PM - Re: Major/minor (Kelly McMullen)
16. 10:32 PM - Re: Question about torquing bolts ()
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Charlie,
I have an O-320-D1A with 9:1 compression pistons. I tried using auto plugs
on the EI ignition, and had pre-ignition problems (actually melted the
center ceramic part of the plug.) I've since replaced them with REM-37BY
plugs and the problem has been eliminated.... Jeff (or now Mike) can get you
the needed hardware to make the change to your existing wires.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Time: 12:22:33 PM PST US From: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com> Subject:
Spark plugs
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
My slow built RV-6A quick build is approaching its first engine run. I
need to know what auto plugs are recommended for use with a Jeff Rose
Electronic Ignition. My EI came with wiring for auto spark plugs, but
Jeff Rose no longer recommends using auto plugs. Rather than change
out
the wires, I'd like to try the auto plugs.
I am also looking for recommendations for using modified 18mm auto
plugs
(reshaped shoulders) versus 14mm plugs with inserts. Any preferences
or
recommendations?
I have an IO-320, 160 hp version with one EI system and one mag. The
mag
will fire regular aviation plugs on top. The EI will fire the lower
plugs.
Charlie Brame
RV-6A N11CB
San Antonio
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: James Clark <jclarkmail@gmail.com>
Charlie,
The plugs for the ElectroAir system are Autolite 386's (I think they were
used in older Ford Pickups or something. Advance Auto has them).
I would recommend the REM37BY aviation plugs. I have run BOTH types.
The 386's work so you can get started with them. I would **NOT** try other
plugs as I seem to recall having that same discussion with Jeff and ended up
with the 386's. There is a reason why he said stick to the 386s if I HAD to
go automotive. I just cannot recall it at the moment.
Why go 37BY's summary:
Had them in ...
Talked to Jeff who recommended staying with them but I was frustrated with
the **OLD STYLE** wiring to the plug end so I CHANGED THEM OUT to the 386's.
<Was chasing a vibration problem ... another long story> Jeff indicated the
possibility of some (slight) power loss. He was RIGHT in my book. Nothing
major, but I could tell.
I put the 37BY's back in. There is a better way to do the plug ends now, so
the OLD problem is solved.
Also, had a friend a few weeks ago find 2 **CRACKED** 386's in his O-360.
Engine started running really rough on the overhead (in formation) so he
pitched out. He was many miles away from home (came to perform at and
airshow nearby) and the LOCAL Advanced Auto did not have any. The good news
was that a) I had my old/new set and b) at my local Advanced Auto they DID
have some. We got a new set installed. I think he plans to switch to the
37BY's.
It's your plane. Do as you chose, Your mileage may vary. etc. etc.
James
RV6 O-320
On 11/8/05, Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
>
> My slow built RV-6A quick build is approaching its first engine run. I
> need to know what auto plugs are recommended for use with a Jeff Rose
> Electronic Ignition. My EI came with wiring for auto spark plugs, but
> Jeff Rose no longer recommends using auto plugs. Rather than change out
> the wires, I'd like to try the auto plugs.
>
> I am also looking for recommendations for using modified 18mm auto plugs
> (reshaped shoulders) versus 14mm plugs with inserts. Any preferences or
> recommendations?
>
> I have an IO-320, 160 hp version with one EI system and one mag. The mag
> will fire regular aviation plugs on top. The EI will fire the lower
> plugs.
>
> Charlie Brame
> RV-6A N11CB
> San Antonio
>
>
> ,
>
>
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james@nextupventures.com .
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Tip Comm Antennas |
--> RV-List message posted by: LessDragProd@aol.com
Hi Bob,
Question 1.)
Bob Archer recommends the marker beacon antenna on a wingtip with the NAV
antenna, but NOT with the COM antenna.
Question 2.)
Mount the COM antenna as FAR FORWARD as possible in the wingtip.
Mount the inboard edge of the COM antenna along the bottom edge of the
wingtip.
Make a bend along the base of the COM antenna so the outboard antenna
section is in contact with the upper wingtip.
Route the NAV light, landing light and strobe light wires along the front
edge of the COM antenna with the Adel clamps provided on the antenna.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 11/02/2005 5:46:42 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bobrundle2@hotmail.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
I'm installing the Bob Archer Comm antenna in wing tip of RV7A. I have
searched the archives but remain with a couple questions:
1. I also have a marker beacon antenna in this wing tip. Will these antennas
interfere with each other?
2. The instructions for the comm antenna indicate the position as vertically
in the top of the vertical stab. Do RV guys typically install these antenna
horizontally in the wing tip or try and make the antenna at least partically
vertical by installing it on the very outside of the wingtip?
This is my second comm so I'd not as concerned about great reception.
Thanks
BobR
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Larry and Brian,
Did you have a problem initially threading the T202N on?
I purchased the T202N. I couldn't use it because in my IO 360 a1b6d installation
because there's not enough clearance between the drain handle and an air intake
pipe to thread the darn thing on. So I traded with another RVer for his
spare aeroequip quick drain. He ended up not wanting it because it didn't appear
to be a true pipe thread and it was also slightly over .5 inch diameter.
He didn't even bother to try and thread it on.
When you compare it to the standard plug, there was no taper to the 202Ns threads.
It was constant diameter all the to the first thread. Did anyone else notice
that? I got it back and might be able to get the camera to take a good side
by side picture next to a standard plug for comparison.
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Bowen
>
> I recently switched to the Fumoto T202N quick drain. Very stout and
> zero leaks.
>
> http://google.com/search?q=Fumoto+T202N
>
> --
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> lucky wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
> >
> > http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
> >
> > Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or any quick oil drain
> valves. The price on this one seems too good to be true but I'm not sure price
> is a good indicator here.
> >
> > thx,
> > lucky
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> > http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
> >
> > Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or any quick oil drain
> valves. The price on this one seems too good to be truebutI'm not sure price
is
> a good indicator here.
> >
> > thx,
> > lucky
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Larry and Brian,
Did you have a problem initially threading the T202N on?
I purchased the T202N. I couldn't use it because in my IO 360 a1b6d installation
because there's not enough clearance between the drain handle and anair intake
pipe to thread the darn thing on. So I traded with another RVer for his spare
aeroequip quick drain. He ended up not wanting it because it didn't appear
to be a true pipe thread and it was also slightly over .5 inch diameter. He didn't
even bother to try and thread it on.
When you compare it to the standard plug, there was no taper to the 202Ns threads.
It was constant diameter all the to the first thread. Did anyone else notice
that? I got it back and might be able to get the camera to take a good side
by side picture next to a standard plug for comparison.
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Larry Bowen <LARRY@BOWENAERO.COM>
I recently switched to the Fumoto T202N quick drain. Very stout and
zero leaks.
http://google.com/search?q=Fumoto+T202N
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
lucky wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or any quick oil drain
valves. The price on this one seems too good to be true but I'm not sure price
is a good indicator here.
thx,
lucky
do not archiv
e
http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or any quick oil drain
valves. The price on this one seems too good to be truebutI'm not sure price is
a good indicator here.
thx,
lucky
do not archive
========================================================
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Flynlow" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
I would like to thank everyone for your comments. I have decided to run one
of the ElectroAir Ignitions in place of the "Shower of Sparks" and continue
to run one Bendix Mag. All of your comments are greatly appreciated.
Bud Silvers
RV8 - Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Fly n Low
Subject: RV-List: Ignitions?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fly n Low" <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Hello all;
I have an IO-360-A1A currently with Bendix Mags and "Shower of Sparks"
When this engine was installed in an Acrosport II I had great difficulty
starting it. I finally did develop a process, but it was always a pain in
the .....
I am not sure if the problem was with the "Shower of Sparks" unit or with
the Mags. The Right Mag was overhauled and that did not make any difference.
Now I must decide whether to keep this ignition or to switch to ElectroAir
Electronic Ignition. I actually have both at this time. I have also
considered selling both and going to Slick Mags. I have also considered just
running one of the Bendix Mags and one of the ElectoAir Electronic
Ignitions.
While attending an engine building seminar in Kansas City a couple of months
ago the instructor indicated a strong dislike for any kind of electronic
ignition. He disliked mixing the two even more.
Ladies and Gentlemen I really need to make a decision and need to make it
now. I am ready to start wiring on my RV-8 and have other issues making this
a pressing decision.
What have your experiences been? I am looking for non prejudicial advice.
Bud Silvers
RV-8 in progress.
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
I ran the 386's for a while in the RV, and found that it was not running
smooth at takeoff power, after a few hours of running them. The electrodes
were eroding, which was a sign that the plugs were not of the correct heat
range for the application (O-360). I switched to BR8ES with adapters and
have had no trouble since. I have tried the later style wire ends with the
REM37BY's which were just the little springs, a viton washer, and plumbing
B-nuts. I had various problems with the wire to plug connections and got
tired of messing with them. So I went back to the BR8ES plugs. I used to
change them when I changed oil, but stopped doing that because there was
nothing wrong with them. The current set I'm running have been on the
airplane for 2+years.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
On 11/9/05, James Clark <jclarkmail@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: James Clark <jclarkmail@gmail.com>
>
> Charlie,
> The plugs for the ElectroAir system are Autolite 386's (I think they were
> used in older Ford Pickups or something. Advance Auto has them).
> I would recommend the REM37BY aviation plugs. I have run BOTH types.
> The 386's work so you can get started with them. I would **NOT** try other
> plugs as I seem to recall having that same discussion with Jeff and ended
> up
> with the 386's. There is a reason why he said stick to the 386s if I HAD
> to
> go automotive. I just cannot recall it at the moment.
> Why go 37BY's summary:
> Had them in ...
> Talked to Jeff who recommended staying with them but I was frustrated with
> the **OLD STYLE** wiring to the plug end so I CHANGED THEM OUT to the
> 386's.
> <Was chasing a vibration problem ... another long story> Jeff indicated
> the
> possibility of some (slight) power loss. He was RIGHT in my book. Nothing
> major, but I could tell.
> I put the 37BY's back in. There is a better way to do the plug ends now,
> so
> the OLD problem is solved.
> Also, had a friend a few weeks ago find 2 **CRACKED** 386's in his O-360.
> Engine started running really rough on the overhead (in formation) so he
> pitched out. He was many miles away from home (came to perform at and
> airshow nearby) and the LOCAL Advanced Auto did not have any. The good
> news
> was that a) I had my old/new set and b) at my local Advanced Auto they DID
> have some. We got a new set installed. I think he plans to switch to the
> 37BY's.
> It's your plane. Do as you chose, Your mileage may vary. etc. etc.
> James
> RV6 O-320
>
>
> On 11/8/05, Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
> >
> > My slow built RV-6A quick build is approaching its first engine run. I
> > need to know what auto plugs are recommended for use with a Jeff Rose
> > Electronic Ignition. My EI came with wiring for auto spark plugs, but
> > Jeff Rose no longer recommends using auto plugs. Rather than change out
> > the wires, I'd like to try the auto plugs.
> >
> > I am also looking for recommendations for using modified 18mm auto plugs
> > (reshaped shoulders) versus 14mm plugs with inserts. Any preferences or
> > recommendations?
> >
> > I have an IO-320, 160 hp version with one EI system and one mag. The mag
> > will fire regular aviation plugs on top. The EI will fire the lower
> > plugs.
> >
> > Charlie Brame
> > RV-6A N11CB
> > San Antonio
> >
> >
> > ,
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
> james@nextupventures.com .
>
>
> ,
>
>
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I've had people recommend using the Autolite 386 plug if I wanted a short
18mm plug to do away with the 18-to-14mm adapters that I currently use with
my Lightspeed ignition. I've heard too many stories about spark plug
failures, in some cases causing engine damage, when using the Autolite 386.
I'm happy to continue using the NGK BR8ES (#5422) spark plugs on my IO-360.
Haven't had a single problem with 'em in nearly 700 hours. I recommend them
to anybody who is looking for an automotive spark plug for use with an EI
system on a Lycoming/clone.
I look at the new cylinders Lycoming makes with 14mm spark plug holes...to
do away with adapters and run the auto plugs directly. That's appealing,
but there's something about it that seems closed-ended. I don't mind using
the adapters in order to keep my options open. I don't suspect I'll change
much, but at least I can.
So my 2 cents is: adapters + NGK BR8ES plugs for your EI.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob J" <rocketbob@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Spark plugs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
>
> I ran the 386's for a while in the RV, and found that it was not running
> smooth at takeoff power, after a few hours of running them. The electrodes
> were eroding, which was a sign that the plugs were not of the correct heat
> range for the application (O-360). I switched to BR8ES with adapters and
> have had no trouble since. I have tried the later style wire ends with the
> REM37BY's which were just the little springs, a viton washer, and plumbing
> B-nuts. I had various problems with the wire to plug connections and got
> tired of messing with them. So I went back to the BR8ES plugs. I used to
> change them when I changed oil, but stopped doing that because there was
> nothing wrong with them. The current set I'm running have been on the
> airplane for 2+years.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Japundza
> RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
>
> On 11/9/05, James Clark <jclarkmail@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: James Clark <jclarkmail@gmail.com>
>>
>> Charlie,
>> The plugs for the ElectroAir system are Autolite 386's (I think they were
>> used in older Ford Pickups or something. Advance Auto has them).
>> I would recommend the REM37BY aviation plugs. I have run BOTH types.
>> The 386's work so you can get started with them. I would **NOT** try
>> other
>> plugs as I seem to recall having that same discussion with Jeff and ended
>> up
>> with the 386's. There is a reason why he said stick to the 386s if I HAD
>> to
>> go automotive. I just cannot recall it at the moment.
>> Why go 37BY's summary:
>> Had them in ...
>> Talked to Jeff who recommended staying with them but I was frustrated
>> with
>> the **OLD STYLE** wiring to the plug end so I CHANGED THEM OUT to the
>> 386's.
>> <Was chasing a vibration problem ... another long story> Jeff indicated
>> the
>> possibility of some (slight) power loss. He was RIGHT in my book. Nothing
>> major, but I could tell.
>> I put the 37BY's back in. There is a better way to do the plug ends now,
>> so
>> the OLD problem is solved.
>> Also, had a friend a few weeks ago find 2 **CRACKED** 386's in his O-360.
>> Engine started running really rough on the overhead (in formation) so he
>> pitched out. He was many miles away from home (came to perform at and
>> airshow nearby) and the LOCAL Advanced Auto did not have any. The good
>> news
>> was that a) I had my old/new set and b) at my local Advanced Auto they
>> DID
>> have some. We got a new set installed. I think he plans to switch to the
>> 37BY's.
>> It's your plane. Do as you chose, Your mileage may vary. etc. etc.
>> James
>> RV6 O-320
>>
>>
>> On 11/8/05, Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Brame <chasb@satx.rr.com>
>> >
>> > My slow built RV-6A quick build is approaching its first engine run. I
>> > need to know what auto plugs are recommended for use with a Jeff Rose
>> > Electronic Ignition. My EI came with wiring for auto spark plugs, but
>> > Jeff Rose no longer recommends using auto plugs. Rather than change out
>> > the wires, I'd like to try the auto plugs.
>> >
>> > I am also looking for recommendations for using modified 18mm auto
>> > plugs
>> > (reshaped shoulders) versus 14mm plugs with inserts. Any preferences or
>> > recommendations?
>> >
>> > I have an IO-320, 160 hp version with one EI system and one mag. The
>> > mag
>> > will fire regular aviation plugs on top. The EI will fire the lower
>> > plugs.
>> >
>> > Charlie Brame
>> > RV-6A N11CB
>> > San Antonio
>> >
>> >
>> > ,
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> --
>> This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
>> james@nextupventures.com .
>>
>>
>> ,
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | First Engine Run |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Speaking of first engine run... One of Van's guys told me that it might be
unwise to run the enigne without wings attached. Allegedly can cause airframe
damage. Archives didn't help, so any and all experiences/opinions/advice more
than welcome. My -6a is still in the garage, but engine is ready, so would
kind of like to run her out to the driveway and crank it up...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
<<is approaching its first engine run. I need
to know what auto plugs are recommended for use with a Jeff Rose Electronic
Ignition. My EI came with wiring for auto spark plugs, but Jeff Rose no
longer recommends using auto plugs. Rather than change out the wires, I'd
like to try the auto plugs.>>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
> I look at the new cylinders Lycoming makes with 14mm spark plug
holes...to
do away with adapters and run the auto plugs directly. That's
appealing,
but there's something about it that seems closed-ended. I don't mind
using
the adapters in order to keep my options open. I don't suspect I'll
change
much, but at least I can.
So my 2 cents is: adapters + NGK BR8ES plugs for your EI.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Just so you know, the new Lycoming cylinders with 14mm holes are merely
using helicoils to bring the size down from the standard 18mm. Otherwise
the cylinders are stock.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: First Engine Run |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
You are correct. You want the wings attached, and Prop attached. The
Lycoming and that type engines will do a bit of shaking.
Indiana Larry in Evansville, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jerry2DT@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: First Engine Run
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
>
> Speaking of first engine run... One of Van's guys told me that it might
> be
> unwise to run the enigne without wings attached. Allegedly can cause
> airframe
> damage. Archives didn't help, so any and all experiences/opinions/advice
> more
> than welcome. My -6a is still in the garage, but engine is ready, so would
> kind of like to run her out to the driveway and crank it up...
>
> Jerry Cochran
> Wilsonville, OR
>
> <<is approaching its first engine run. I need
> to know what auto plugs are recommended for use with a Jeff Rose
> Electronic
> Ignition. My EI came with wiring for auto spark plugs, but Jeff Rose no
> longer recommends using auto plugs. Rather than change out the wires, I'd
> like to try the auto plugs.>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I had no problems at all. Are there different sized plugs in different
sumps? Maybe there is a spec called out in the Lyc overhaul/parts manual.
Is the part number on the Fumoto? Maybe it was mis-packaged or something?
Sorry it's not working for you....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: lucky [mailto:luckymacy@comcast.net]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 11:51 AM
> To: RV yahoo; rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: fumoto T202N
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> Larry and Brian,
>
> Did you have a problem initially threading the T202N on?
>
> I purchased the T202N. I couldn't use it because in my IO
> 360 a1b6d installation because there's not enough clearance
> between the drain handle and an air intake pipe to thread the
> darn thing on. So I traded with another RVer for his spare
> aeroequip quick drain. He ended up not wanting it because it
> didn't appear to be a true pipe thread and it was also
> slightly over .5 inch diameter. He didn't even bother to try
> and thread it on.
>
> When you compare it to the standard plug, there was no taper
> to the 202Ns threads. It was constant diameter all the to
> the first thread. Did anyone else notice that? I got it
> back and might be able to get the camera to take a good side
> by side picture next to a standard plug for comparison.
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Bowen
> >
> > I recently switched to the Fumoto T202N quick drain. Very stout and
> > zero leaks.
> >
> > http://google.com/search?q=Fumoto+T202N
> >
> > --
> > Larry Bowen
> > Larry@BowenAero.com
> > http://BowenAero.com
> >
> >
> > lucky wrote:
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
> > >
> > > http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
> > >
> > > Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or
> any quick
> > > oil drain
> > valves. The price on this one seems too good to be true but I'm not
> > sure price is a good indicator here.
> > >
> > > thx,
> > > lucky
> > >
> > >
> > > http://www.skygeek.com/oildrvaly12n.html
> > >
> > > Anyone have any positive or negative feedback on this or
> any quick
> > > oil drain
> > valves. The price on this one seems too good to be
> truebutI'm not sure
> > price is a good indicator here.
> > >
> > > thx,
> > > lucky
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Question for the list:
Is installing a wing leveler/autopilot a "major alteration" per section
21.93? The verbiage doesn't give any examples of what minor or major
changes might be.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: First Engine Run |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
Don't start it without the wings on, it will shake like a wet dog. Mine
shook so bad that one side of the slider came out and gouged the side of
the airplane (new paint!). It wouldn't surprise me that it could cause
airframe damage.
Dave
Jerry2DT@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
>
>Speaking of first engine run... One of Van's guys told me that it might be
>unwise to run the enigne without wings attached. Allegedly can cause airframe
>damage. Archives didn't help, so any and all experiences/opinions/advice more
>than welcome. My -6a is still in the garage, but engine is ready, so would
>kind of like to run her out to the driveway and crank it up...
>
>Jerry Cochran
>Wilsonville, OR
>
><<is approaching its first engine run. I need
>to know what auto plugs are recommended for use with a Jeff Rose Electronic
>Ignition. My EI came with wiring for auto spark plugs, but Jeff Rose no
>longer recommends using auto plugs. Rather than change out the wires, I'd
>like to try the auto plugs.>>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bud Newhall <RV-6@comcast.net>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/STERBA-WOOD-AIRPLANE-PROPELLER-PROP_W0QQitemZ4587833710QQcategoryZ26439QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
I don't know how the FAA applies that FAR to amateur built aircraft. For
certified aircraft the definition is in Part 43 Appendix A, and such an
install is most definitely major, and not likely to be approved without an
STC.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Major/minor
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Question for the list:
Is installing a wing leveler/autopilot a "major alteration" per section
21.93? The verbiage doesn't give any examples of what minor or major
changes might be.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Question about torquing bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
From: Dan Charrois <danlist(at)syz.com>
Subject: Question about torquing bolts
>Hi everyone. I have a question about torquing bolts properly.
>I'm under the impression that the proper torque of a bolt should be
>the torque exerted to tighten the nut beyond the normal friction
>between the nut and the bolt (correct me if I'm wrong). For non-stop
>nuts that exhibit very little friction with their bolt, it's likely
>not a significant difference. But for stop nuts (with the nylon
>insert), this additional friction is somewhat significant.
As you point out, if you took a sensitive IN-LB torque wrench and
measure the force to turn the nut before seating, just spinning on
the threads, you would find the force is small.
>My torque wrench is the kind that clicks when it reaches the torque
>set (it doesn't have a meter on which you can directly read the
>torque being exerted). And it isn't sensitive enough to measure the
>relatively small amount of torque required to overcome the friction
>with the nylon insert. So I rigged up a simple test using a postal
>scale and a wrench of known length. I came up with a calculated
>torque of 6.1 inch-pounds required to overcome the nylon friction of
>a stop nut tightened on an AN3 bolt. Though the math should be
>simple, I just wanted to check if the rest of you who have been there
>already consider this to be reasonable.
Good for you and the clever experiment. I would not change you the
torque that much. May be tighten to the high end and hold the torque
wrench force for a few seconds after reaching the torque. You are
right, the click type are not sensitve. IN fact unless you calabrate
it could be way off. For small bolts I like a beam type torque wrench.
Also there is the static torque and dynamic friction which is much
less.
>If I recall correctly, Van's lists the AN3 bolts as having a torque
>of 20-25 inch pounds. So I'm assuming that with these calculations,
>in tightening a stop nut onto an AN3 bolt, I should be selecting
>26-31 inch pounds to account for the friction with the nylon insert.
>Does this sound reasonable?
You bring up a good point, but I would not worry too much or over
torque. USE THE GERMAN TORQUE METHOD: "Gooo-tin tight"
(said with German accent).
>Since the AN3 bolts have such a low torque setting by feel of what
>I've been using with bolts in the past, I wanted to make sure that
>I'm not under-torquing..
Very few people under torque anything unless they just plan forgot
to tighten it in the first place. Torque is not an exact science in
that many factors can cause actual torque and indicated torque to
vary. For example if you have lubed threads. Just handling the
threads and getting oils from your skin on the threads can cause the
actual torque to be much higher than with dry threads. Also for small
bolts and torques I would check your torque wrench. Dis-use can cause
it to go out of Cal. Torque wrenches used in industrial applications
are calabrated often.
>Thanks for your advice!
>Dan
--
>Syzygy Research & Technology
>Box 83, Legal, AB T0G 1L0 Canada
>Phone: 780-961-2213
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