Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:13 AM - Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... (Matt Dralle)
2. 07:27 AM - Re: Paint scheme question (Jeff Dowling)
3. 08:01 AM - RV Builder Websites (Paul Besing)
4. 08:06 AM - Re: Paint scheme question (Paul Besing)
5. 08:27 AM - RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate (Joe & Jan Connell)
6. 08:31 AM - Is it a bad idea for babies to fly in RV's?? (John Allen)
7. 09:13 AM - Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate (LessDragProd@aol.com)
8. 09:35 AM - Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate (Jim)
9. 09:38 AM - GX60 internal battery (Ralph E. Capen)
10. 09:57 AM - Re: RV Builder Websites (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
11. 10:45 AM - Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
12. 10:47 AM - AN bulkhead fuel fittings (Gerry Filby)
13. 11:36 AM - Re: Dynon Failure Mode (Chuck Weyant)
14. 12:07 PM - Re: AN bulkhead fuel fittings (Dan Checkoway)
15. 12:30 PM - Re: AN bulkhead fuel fittings (Paul Besing)
16. 01:40 PM - Re: Dynon Failure Mode (Chuck Jensen)
17. 02:00 PM - Re: AN bulkhead fuel fittings (Gerry Filby)
18. 02:24 PM - Re: Dynon Failure Mode (Chuck Weyant)
19. 03:10 PM - Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate (Kyle Boatright)
20. 03:25 PM - Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
21. 04:05 PM - Re: AN bulkhead fuel fittings (Richard Tasker)
22. 04:38 PM - Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate (Kyle Boatright)
23. 04:41 PM - Re: Crossover exhaust. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
24. 05:06 PM - 6A with AFP - looking for potential exhaust systems (Ralph E. Capen)
25. 05:15 PM - Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate (Dan Checkoway)
26. 05:17 PM - Re: RV Builder Websites (Charlie England)
27. 05:21 PM - Re: Dynon Failure Mode (Ron Lee)
28. 06:35 PM - Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate (Fiveonepw@AOL.COM)
29. 07:30 PM - Re: 6A with AFP - looking for potential exhaust systems (Alex Peterson)
30. 07:37 PM - Items for sale (Tim Coldenhoff)
31. 09:50 PM - Re: RV Builder Websites (Bob Perkinson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Please Make a Contribution to Support Your Lists... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Just a reminder that November is the Annual List Fund Raiser. Please make a Contribution
today to support the continued operation and upgrade of these great
services!!
The Contribution Site is fast and easy:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Paint scheme question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I would ask Vans for his opinion since he has the blue -9 to use for
comparison.
do not archive
shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Medema" <doug.medema@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Paint scheme question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Medema" <doug.medema@comcast.net>
>
> If you looked at my website after my previous post, you know
> I'm seriously
> contemplating painting my plane a dark blue (actually
> Chevrolet Indigo Blue
> like on my TrailBlazer.) I know a dark colored car can get
> very hot inside
> but am wondering if it makes much difference on an RV. We
> have the clear
> canopy and mine already has a black glareshield. The only
> area in the cockpit
> that would be affected is the area over the back of the
> baggage compartment.
>
> So, any of you that have dark paint on the top -- does your
> cockpit get really
> hot in the sun, or do you think it is about the same as a
> lighter color?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM down for 2nd condition inspection.
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | RV Builder Websites |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
do not archive
Listers, we have completely redesigned the MyKitLog
section of our website, and there are currently 38 RV
builder websites being hosted on our servers. It's a
great resource for builders out there to see how
others are doing things.
You do not need to be a KitLog Pro user to view the
websites, as they are all publicly viewable.
You can view the websites at www.kitlog.com/mykitlog.
You can search by builder, location, type, etc. Or,
to see the entire list, leave the search field blank.
Paul Besing
__________________________________
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Paint scheme question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Are you going to be storing it in the sun? If you are
flying, I wouldn't think the paint color is going to
make a big difference, especially when you get to
altitude.
If you have a hangar, I say paint it the way you want
to paint it.
Paul Besing
--- Jeff Dowling <shempdowling2@earthlink.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
> I would ask Vans for his opinion since he has the
> blue -9 to use for
> comparison.
>
> do not archive
>
> shemp
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Doug Medema" <doug.medema@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Paint scheme question
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Medema"
> <doug.medema@comcast.net>
> >
> > If you looked at my website after my previous
> post, you know
> > I'm seriously
> > contemplating painting my plane a dark blue
> (actually
> > Chevrolet Indigo Blue
> > like on my TrailBlazer.) I know a dark colored
> car can get
> > very hot inside
> > but am wondering if it makes much difference on an
> RV. We
> > have the clear
> > canopy and mine already has a black glareshield.
> The only
> > area in the cockpit
> > that would be affected is the area over the back
> of the
> > baggage compartment.
> >
> > So, any of you that have dark paint on the top --
> does your
> > cockpit get really
> > hot in the sun, or do you think it is about the
> same as a
> > lighter color?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Doug Medema
> > RV-6A N276DM down for 2nd condition inspection.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> provided
> www.buildersbooks.com,
> Admin.
> _->
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 5
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| Subject: | RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
Gentlemen,
At the initial fitting of the top cowl on my RV-9A/O-320/fixed
pitch, I find front of the top cowl is not parallel to the prop
spinner back plate when viewed from the side. At the top the
clearance is 1/4" and at the mid-point the clearance is 1/2".
When I add the bottom cowl I would expect the clearance at
the of the back will approach 3/4". This is with the cowl resting
on top of the forward skin.
The engine mount is tight against the firewall at all points. The
engine is tight against the Lord mounts (Dynafocal-1). The rubber
mounts are installed correctly: top has washer and thin hard rubber
away from engine, bottom has thin hard rubber and washer next to
engine. The spinner is positioned by using 6 2 1/4" pieces of tubing
and bolts.
I'm not sure if the top cowl is deformed and perhaps a heat gun could
be used to change its alignment. My thanks to Dan Checkoway for his
sage advice. He related this is a common problem and the solution
is to use foam and fiberglass fill to establish the proper clearance around
the spinner. Any additional idea fellows?
Many thanks,
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A, N95JJ
Message 6
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| Subject: | Is it a bad idea for babies to fly in RV's?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Allen" <fliier@altrionet.com>
What worked for us was to take those throwaway foam earplugs, compress the two
ends until flattened into a little pancake,=0D=0Athen use a regular paper hole
punch ( the single hole kind)=A0to punch=A0out a "core"=A0 These mini-earplugs
were about the right size for the baby. Use a needle and some upholstery thread
to attach the two plugs together.=A0 That way it is less likely one of the
plugs goes missing. Babies put everything in their mouths and a piece of expanding
foam could be=A0VERY VERY=A0bad.=A0 Put a close fitting bonnet over the
babies head that ties under the chin=A0so that he can't get at the earplugs.=0D=0A=0D=0AUsually
the noise in the cabin put our daughter to sleeep.=A0 Every
time we descended it was necessary to wake the baby and get her drinking so as
to clear her ears.=A0 Descents needed to be planned in order to keep them gradual.=0D=0A=0D=0ANow,=A0
how you fit a full size carseat into the back of an RV
is a different matter.=A0 Clearly you would need to attach hard points to the
underlying structure.=A0 We took the baby all over the place in a C-150.=A0
In that airplane Cesna built the hard points for a child's seat into the airplane.=0D=0A=0D=0AJohn
Allen=0D=0ARV-6A=0D=0A=0D=0A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: LessDragProd@aol.com
Hi All,
IMHO, the angle at the front of the cowl to the spinner is for ease of
maintenance. It is there to provide extra clearance when removing the bottom
cowl.
Bob, at Fairings-Etc., recommends to NOT use a heat gun on fiberglass to
change its shape.
After you have your RV together, and have taken the lower cowl off a couple
times, you can decide if you still want to fill the front of the cowl behind
the spinner.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 11/21/2005 8:28:08 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jconnell@rconnect.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
Gentlemen,
At the initial fitting of the top cowl on my RV-9A/O-320/fixed
pitch, I find front of the top cowl is not parallel to the prop
spinner back plate when viewed from the side. At the top the
clearance is 1/4" and at the mid-point the clearance is 1/2".
When I add the bottom cowl I would expect the clearance at
the of the back will approach 3/4". This is with the cowl resting
on top of the forward skin.
The engine mount is tight against the firewall at all points. The
engine is tight against the Lord mounts (Dynafocal-1). The rubber
mounts are installed correctly: top has washer and thin hard rubber
away from engine, bottom has thin hard rubber and washer next to
engine. The spinner is positioned by using 6 2 1/4" pieces of tubing
and bolts.
I'm not sure if the top cowl is deformed and perhaps a heat gun could
be used to change its alignment. My thanks to Dan Checkoway for his
sage advice. He related this is a common problem and the solution
is to use foam and fiberglass fill to establish the proper clearance around
the spinner. Any additional idea fellows?
Many thanks,
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A, N95JJ
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim" <n144hr@earthlink.net>
a.. Gentlemen,
At the initial fitting of the top cowl on my RV-9A/O-320/fixed
pitch, I find front of the top cowl is not parallel to the prop
spinner back plate when viewed from the side. At the top the
clearance is 1/4" and at the mid-point the clearance is 1/2".
When I add the bottom cowl I would expect the clearance at
the of the back will approach 3/4". This is with the cowl resting
on top of the forward skin.
b.. This is typical. When you have it all fitted you can glue balsa to it, sand
it for the proper clearance and alignment behind the spinner and glass it
in. I would suggest fitting it so the spinner is .125-.250 above the cowl to
allow for engine mount rubbers to sag (wear in).
c..
The engine mount is tight against the firewall at all points. The
engine is tight against the Lord mounts (Dynafocal-1). The rubber
mounts are installed correctly: top has washer and thin hard rubber
away from engine, bottom has thin hard rubber and washer next to
engine. The spinner is positioned by using 6 2 1/4" pieces of tubing
and bolts.
I'm not sure if the top cowl is deformed and perhaps a heat gun could
be used to change its alignment.
d..
e.. The cowls are deformed. You can use a heat gun to take some of the misalignment
out but too much heat weakens the matrix in the fiberglass (according
to some experts).
My thanks to Dan Checkoway for his
sage advice. He related this is a common problem and the solution
is to use foam and fiberglass fill to establish the proper clearance around
the spinner. Any additional idea fellows?
Many thanks,
Joe Connell
Stewartville, MN
RV-9A, N95JJ
Message 9
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| Subject: | GX60 internal battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
I am getting an error message stating that my internal battery needs service in
my GX60. The unit continues to function - I just have to press the msg button
every few minutes.
This only started since I upgraded the datacard - that may be coincidental though.
Anyone else seen this? Is it home-repairable...with the correct battery? I have
done some miniature soldering so I could probably do it......
The archives show some of the portable units needing a similar repair - being done
by the owner. Sure would save some RV gas money!
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV Builder Websites |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
Paul,
Very nice upgrade. Much better than the old site! One comment
though. Is there a way you can add a selection to show logs
sequentially from most current? I know most of my friends/family like
to follow my progress as I go and I don't see any easy way for them to
know what I am currently working on. Maybe have that as some sort of
default view under the construction logs? Also, how about a running
counter for total hours.
One last comment. When you are in a set of logs, clicking on previous
takes you ahead in the entries. Seems backwards as I would expect it to
go back by entry. For example, say you have 3 logs, one for 11/15,
11/16, and 11/17. If you are on 11/16 and click previous, it takes you
to 11/17.
Keeps getting better, keep up the good work!
Thanks,
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Waiting on fuselage
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Subject: RV-List: RV Builder Websites
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
do not archive
Listers, we have completely redesigned the MyKitLog section of our
website, and there are currently 38 RV builder websites being hosted on
our servers. It's a great resource for builders out there to see how
others are doing things.
You do not need to be a KitLog Pro user to view the websites, as they
are all publicly viewable.
You can view the websites at www.kitlog.com/mykitlog.
You can search by builder, location, type, etc. Or, to see the entire
list, leave the search field blank.
Paul Besing
__________________________________
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/21/05 10:28:08 AM Central Standard Time,
jconnell@rconnect.com writes:
> I find front of the top cowl is not parallel to the prop
> spinner back plate when viewed from the side.
>>>>
Had same problem here and have spoken with many others with similar
condition- some have actually cut the area loose and re-attached, I opted to fill
it in
as follows:
Get best top half to bottom half fit and have all attach hardware already
fitted- in other words, wait til cowling is in final installed position before
doing this. After spinner is fitted with desired clearance at closest point,
mark this position and two more points 120 degrees apart on cowling. Measure
gap at all three points, then calculate how thick filler will need to be at the
two wide points for a consistent fit. I needed about 4-5 mm added in both
positions, IIRC.
Remove cowl and re-attach the halves, stand on rear (nose up) and roughen up
the now-horizontal "ring" front face of cowling for epoxy/flox mixture. Drill
two small holes in the center of this "ring" at the two wide points you
marked on the cowl and insert small sheet metal or wood screws far enough that
the
tops of the heads are same distance from ring face as the excess gap measured
at these points earlier.
Find a board or other stiff, flat object larger than the circle of the ring
(I used a piece of formica-covered shelving that was wide enough) and cover one
side with release agent of choice (tape, wax paper etc.) Make up a thick
batch of flox (p-nut butter) and smear it onto ring surface approximating amount
of filler needed, then set the board onto the whole thing making sure it is in
contact with the cowl at the good spot, and both screw heads. After initial
set (still tacky), remove board & screws, carve off any squeeze out before it
gets real hard, and separate the halves at the join line by carefully carving
with a hacksaw blade or coping saw, then finish as usual. Mine came out with
nice even gap all the way around.
Any questions, lemme know-
Mark Phillips -6A N51PW (PossumWorks) Columbia, TN
Message 12
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| Subject: | AN bulkhead fuel fittings |
1.66 HELO_DYNAMIC_DHCP Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (DHCP)
1.28 HELO_DYNAMIC_HCC Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (HCC)
1.36 HELO_DYNAMIC_IPADDR Relay HELO'd using suspicious hostname (IP
addr 1)
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
I'm installing the fuel and vent lines in my RV-9 and could do
with some advice.
1. I'm not sure what torque setting to use on the bulkhead nut
nor the nut that holds down the flared sleeve (1/4 and 3/8 alum
tube).
2. Where should one apply the EZ-Turn/Fuelube ? On just the
fitting thread ? Should I put any on the flared faces or
around the tube where the sleeve meets the flare ?
3. Do folks use Loctite Threadlocker on the bulkhead nuts to
stop them rattling loose ? If so which one #222, 242 or 262 ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Failure Mode |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Just got back from a weeks vacation and one of my hanger neighbors told me
of a Lancair hangered across from RV9A who was possibly hit by static
discharge (lightning) while hard IFR. The Dynon failed including a separate
buss electrical backup system. Fortunately, the backup came back online in
ten or fifteen seconds and he was able to descend out of the layer two or
three minutes later nose down and in a thirty degree bank. He said he
attributes being here today by just finishing a course with Flight Safety
recently. He's also purpertedly to have said he's installing a new vaccum
backup system.
> Alex,
>
> Everyone can agree that all of the EFIS have had some teething issues,
> some more than others. But if we consider all the instruments and
> systems a single EFIS/EIS replaces, or never were even available before,
> it would seem that the 'inop rate' is actually very low, especially for
> a sophisticated, complex instrument right out of the gate. If we
> tallied all the problems that we would have with the old individual
> instruments, I'm guessing the total would be significantly greater than
> what is seen with these new electronic systems. It gets noticed more
> when all the malfunctions that could possibly happen show up in one
> instruments...it may seem like a lot but doubt that it really is.
>
> Heck, the eInstruments for GA have only had 2-3 real years to sort
> things out. The aircraft industry has been perfecting the vacuum pump
> and instruments for decades and they still crap out with frustrating
> regularity, so I think we're making progress.
>
> Chuck
> Dual GRT EFIS (and satisfied with 'em)
>
> Larry, sorry you are having troubles with the Dynon.
>
> While we can't possibly know what the failure rate for this system (or
> any
> other new EFIS) is yet, we must be humble to how difficult it is to
> design a
> device of this complexity with minimal failure potentials.
>
> I'm sure this will bring on the torches, but we seem to be in a period
> right
> now where there are more problems with the new EFIS systems than with
> the
> ancient mechanical systems they are replacing. This will change, of
> course,
> but be aware that this is often the nature of new technology. There are
> no
> free lunches.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A N66AP 690 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: AN bulkhead fuel fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
1. I'm not aware of any specific torque for bulkhead nuts, but I would
personally torque the bulkhead nuts tighter than the torque called out for
the AN fitting. That way it's unlikely to loosen at the bulkhead if and
when you are tightening/loosening the flare nut(s).
2. Only lube PIPE THREADS. NO lube goes on any threads or flares on flare
nut fittings. ONLY the pipe threads.
3. I didn't personally use any thread locker on my AN bulkhead nuts. On my
fuel tanks, the bulkhead nuts got covered with proseal, which should help to
keep them in place. On the fuselage & firewall, I didn't use any locking
agent. Some people might, and I doubt that would be a problem.
Just my 2 cents.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (690 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
Subject: RV-List: AN bulkhead fuel fittings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
> I'm installing the fuel and vent lines in my RV-9 and could do
> with some advice.
>
> 1. I'm not sure what torque setting to use on the bulkhead nut
> nor the nut that holds down the flared sleeve (1/4 and 3/8 alum
> tube).
>
> 2. Where should one apply the EZ-Turn/Fuelube ? On just the
> fitting thread ? Should I put any on the flared faces or
> around the tube where the sleeve meets the flare ?
>
> 3. Do folks use Loctite Threadlocker on the bulkhead nuts to
> stop them rattling loose ? If so which one #222, 242 or 262 ?
>
> __g__
>
> ==========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: AN bulkhead fuel fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
I haven't found a torque setting on these. There may
be one there, but I've always tightened them snug
without issue. Fuel lube on the threads, but not on
the flare. I would NOT put threadlocker on them. I
try to avoid that stuff whenever possible. Just
something else to introduce into fuel lines. Put some
torque seal on there so you can visually inspect them.
Paul Besing
--- Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby
> <gerf@gerf.com>
>
> I'm installing the fuel and vent lines in my RV-9
> and could do
> with some advice.
>
> 1. I'm not sure what torque setting to use on the
> bulkhead nut
> nor the nut that holds down the flared sleeve (1/4
> and 3/8 alum
> tube).
>
> 2. Where should one apply the EZ-Turn/Fuelube ? On
> just the
> fitting thread ? Should I put any on the flared
> faces or
> around the tube where the sleeve meets the flare ?
>
> 3. Do folks use Loctite Threadlocker on the bulkhead
> nuts to
> stop them rattling loose ? If so which one #222,
> 242 or 262 ?
>
> __g__
>
>
==========================================================
>
> Gerry Filby
> gerf@gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
> Click on
> about
> provided
> www.buildersbooks.com,
> Admin.
> _->
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 16
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| Subject: | Dynon Failure Mode |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Chuck
Very interested in the failure mode from the lightening. From your
comment, it was apparent that the EFIS went down. However, did the
plane lose ALL electrical, did the A/P not stay on, and if not, what is
it reliant on that failed? Other electrical equipment stay up? Curious
if a Mid-Continental AI (with battery back up) would have stayed up.
I'm sure everyone would be very interested in a forensic analysis of
what did, and what didn't happen. It is certainly a topical issue with
all the all-electrics being put in the air.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Weyant
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Failure Mode
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Just got back from a weeks vacation and one of my hanger neighbors told
me
of a Lancair hangered across from RV9A who was possibly hit by static
discharge (lightning) while hard IFR. The Dynon failed including a
separate
buss electrical backup system. Fortunately, the backup came back online
in
ten or fifteen seconds and he was able to descend out of the layer two
or
three minutes later nose down and in a thirty degree bank. He said he
attributes being here today by just finishing a course with Flight
Safety
recently. He's also purpertedly to have said he's installing a new
vaccum
backup system.
> Alex,
>
> Everyone can agree that all of the EFIS have had some teething issues,
> some more than others. But if we consider all the instruments and
> systems a single EFIS/EIS replaces, or never were even available
before,
> it would seem that the 'inop rate' is actually very low, especially
for
> a sophisticated, complex instrument right out of the gate. If we
> tallied all the problems that we would have with the old individual
> instruments, I'm guessing the total would be significantly greater
than
> what is seen with these new electronic systems. It gets noticed more
> when all the malfunctions that could possibly happen show up in one
> instruments...it may seem like a lot but doubt that it really is.
>
> Heck, the eInstruments for GA have only had 2-3 real years to sort
> things out. The aircraft industry has been perfecting the vacuum pump
> and instruments for decades and they still crap out with frustrating
> regularity, so I think we're making progress.
>
> Chuck
> Dual GRT EFIS (and satisfied with 'em)
>
> Larry, sorry you are having troubles with the Dynon.
>
> While we can't possibly know what the failure rate for this system (or
> any
> other new EFIS) is yet, we must be humble to how difficult it is to
> design a
> device of this complexity with minimal failure potentials.
>
> I'm sure this will bring on the torches, but we seem to be in a period
> right
> now where there are more problems with the new EFIS systems than with
> the
> ancient mechanical systems they are replacing. This will change, of
> course,
> but be aware that this is often the nature of new technology. There
are
> no
> free lunches.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A N66AP 690 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: AN bulkhead fuel fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
I guess that's the root of my nervousness. There's a part of
me that just doesn't trust the idea that the 2 surfaces that
make up the flare in a flare fitting can be vapor/liquid tight.
I guess I'm about to find out.
g
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> 1. I'm not aware of any specific torque for bulkhead nuts, but I would
> personally torque the bulkhead nuts tighter than the torque
> called out for
> the AN fitting. That way it's unlikely to loosen at the
> bulkhead if and
> when you are tightening/loosening the flare nut(s).
>
> 2. Only lube PIPE THREADS. NO lube goes on any threads or
> flares on flare
> nut fittings. ONLY the pipe threads.
>
> 3. I didn't personally use any thread locker on my AN bulkhead
> nuts. On my
> fuel tanks, the bulkhead nuts got covered with proseal, which
> should help to
> keep them in place. On the fuselage & firewall, I didn't use
> any locking
> agent. Some people might, and I doubt that would be a problem.
>
> Just my 2 cents.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (690 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: AN bulkhead fuel fittings
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
> >
> > I'm installing the fuel and vent lines in my RV-9 and could do
> > with some advice.
> >
> > 1. I'm not sure what torque setting to use on the bulkhead nut
> > nor the nut that holds down the flared sleeve (1/4 and 3/8 alum
> > tube).
> >
> > 2. Where should one apply the EZ-Turn/Fuelube ? On just the
> > fitting thread ? Should I put any on the flared faces or
> > around the tube where the sleeve meets the flare ?
> >
> > 3. Do folks use Loctite Threadlocker on the bulkhead nuts to
> > stop them rattling loose ? If so which one #222, 242 or 262 ?
> >
> > __g__
> >
> > ==========================================================
> > Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> > Tel: 415 203 9177
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Failure Mode |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Don't know all the particulars --- just heard about it second party
yesterday. Should have more info this afternoon. I didn't ask your
questions in particular, but it sounded like electrical continued to
function, just EFIS and elecrical backup flight instruments went down.
However, I do have a call through to the fellow that told me about the
incident and I may run into Lancair pilot next day or two for a first hand
account. I'll post as new info comes in.
Chuck
>
> Chuck
>
> Very interested in the failure mode from the lightening. From your
> comment, it was apparent that the EFIS went down. However, did the
> plane lose ALL electrical, did the A/P not stay on, and if not, what is
> it reliant on that failed? Other electrical equipment stay up? Curious
> if a Mid-Continental AI (with battery back up) would have stayed up.
> I'm sure everyone would be very interested in a forensic analysis of
> what did, and what didn't happen. It is certainly a topical issue with
> all the all-electrics being put in the air.
>
> Chuck
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
>
> Just got back from a weeks vacation and one of my hanger neighbors told
> me
> of a Lancair hangered across from RV9A who was possibly hit by static
> discharge (lightning) while hard IFR. The Dynon failed including a
> separate
> buss electrical backup system. Fortunately, the backup came back online
> in
> ten or fifteen seconds and he was able to descend out of the layer two
> or
> three minutes later nose down and in a thirty degree bank. He said he
> attributes being here today by just finishing a course with Flight
> Safety
> recently. He's also purpertedly to have said he's installing a new
> vaccum
> backup system.
>
>> Alex,
>>
>> Everyone can agree that all of the EFIS have had some teething issues,
>> some more than others. But if we consider all the instruments and
>> systems a single EFIS/EIS replaces, or never were even available
> before,
>> it would seem that the 'inop rate' is actually very low, especially
> for
>> a sophisticated, complex instrument right out of the gate. If we
>> tallied all the problems that we would have with the old individual
>> instruments, I'm guessing the total would be significantly greater
> than
>> what is seen with these new electronic systems. It gets noticed more
>> when all the malfunctions that could possibly happen show up in one
>> instruments...it may seem like a lot but doubt that it really is.
>>
>> Heck, the eInstruments for GA have only had 2-3 real years to sort
>> things out. The aircraft industry has been perfecting the vacuum pump
>> and instruments for decades and they still crap out with frustrating
>> regularity, so I think we're making progress.
>>
>> Chuck
>> Dual GRT EFIS (and satisfied with 'em)
>>
>> Larry, sorry you are having troubles with the Dynon.
>>
>> While we can't possibly know what the failure rate for this system (or
>> any
>> other new EFIS) is yet, we must be humble to how difficult it is to
>> design a
>> device of this complexity with minimal failure potentials.
>>
>> I'm sure this will bring on the torches, but we seem to be in a period
>> right
>> now where there are more problems with the new EFIS systems than with
>> the
>> ancient mechanical systems they are replacing. This will change, of
>> course,
>> but be aware that this is often the nature of new technology. There
> are
>> no
>> free lunches.
>>
>> Alex Peterson
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <LessDragProd@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner
back-plate
> --> RV-List message posted by: LessDragProd@aol.com
>
>
> Hi All,
>
> IMHO, the angle at the front of the cowl to the spinner is for ease of
> maintenance. It is there to provide extra clearance when removing the
> bottom cowl.
>
> Bob, at Fairings-Etc., recommends to NOT use a heat gun on fiberglass to
> change its shape.
>
> After you have your RV together, and have taken the lower cowl off a
> couple
> times, you can decide if you still want to fill the front of the cowl
> behind
> the spinner.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
Excellent advise, especially from a maintenance perspective. If you're going
for a "grand champion" airplane with perfectly symmetrical clearances
everywhere, fill the gap. Otherwise, leave the bigger gap at the bottom. If
you do fill the gap, the already tough chore of getting the bottom cowl
on/off is going to become a genuine nightmare.
KB
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/21/2005 5:13:09 PM Central Standard Time,
kboatright1@comcast.net writes:
If
you do fill the gap, the already tough chore of getting the bottom cowl
on/off is going to become a genuine nightmare.
>>>
Don't understand- mine is a fairly consistent 4-5 mm gap, and lower cowl
deplanes quite easily- I even quit putting protective tape on the fuse and cowl
to
protect from damage and have only minor difficulty clearing the inlet seals-
helluva slot for the sissygearleg, but pretty much a yawner to get the bottom
cowl off...........
Mark Phillips -6A, N51PW (PossumWorks in TN)
archive this? well, maybe...........................
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: AN bulkhead fuel fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Don't worry. We manufacture and sell pressure sensors with a wide range
of pressure ratings and with all types of threads and fittings. The
ones that are sold for the highest pressures are the flare fittings.
Sensors with NPT threads and SAE threads with o-rings are basically
limited to 10,000 psi or lower. Flare fittings are sold to much higher
pressures than that.
The advice given by some others is wrong at best. On NPT threads do not
use thread lube, use a teflon based thread sealing paste. Try not to get
any on the first thread to keep it out of the system. On flare fittings
use fuel lube or thread lube on the threads (and sealing surfaces if you
want - it will be squeezed out when the threads are tightened anyway and
will prevent any galling).
Dick Tasker
Gerry Filby wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
>I guess that's the root of my nervousness. There's a part of
>me that just doesn't trust the idea that the 2 surfaces that
>make up the flare in a flare fitting can be vapor/liquid tight.
>I guess I'm about to find out.
>
>g
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner
back-plate
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 11/21/2005 5:13:09 PM Central Standard Time,
> kboatright1@comcast.net writes:
> If
> you do fill the gap, the already tough chore of getting the bottom cowl
> on/off is going to become a genuine nightmare.
>>>>
>
> Don't understand- mine is a fairly consistent 4-5 mm gap, and lower cowl
> deplanes quite easily- I even quit putting protective tape on the fuse and
> cowl to
> protect from damage and have only minor difficulty clearing the inlet
> seals-
> helluva slot for the sissygearleg, but pretty much a yawner to get the
> bottom
> cowl off...........
>
> Mark Phillips -6A, N51PW (PossumWorks in TN)
>
> archive this? well, maybe...........................
A little back and forth, eh? ;-)
This may be another difference between the nosewheel and tailwheel versions.
On my tailwheel -6 the landing gear fairings make it impossible to remove
the lower cowl by dropping it vertically. To remove the lower cowl, I pull
the fasteners, then the cowl will drop an inch or so. At that point, the aft
edge is resting on the gear leg fairings and the front is captured by the
spinner, with a soft rag between the spinner and cowl. I use the ledge where
the aft cowl rests as a hinge point of sorts to lower the front of the cowl
(you've gotta flex it to clear the spinner). Once the front of the cowl is
free and clear of the spinner, I slide the entire cowl forward and off of
the gear leg fairing/hinge points to free it. Doable with 2 hands,
preferable to have a helper.
KB
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | RE: Crossover exhaust. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Thanks for the explanation everyone:
That does make sense to me (about the power pulses and scavenging). I don't
know where my Lancair buddy got his info but we'll find out when he flies
whether it will be detrimental to engine operation. I was mistaken about
the Q200 builder, he did a 4 into 4 system NOT 4 into 2, I stand corrected.
But he still claims cooler under-cowl temperatures. Although the crossover
pipes are several inches away from the sump it still would seem to me that
some of their heat would end up in the oil. Maybe not, that may be an
experiment for when the airplane flies. In the meantime, Larry Vetterman,
I've mounted your exhaust system on my plane and will fly with it. It's a
known quantity, I'm not in the mood to do more fabrication at this point and
I don't have a welder so it's an easy decision. Thanks for making these
systems available (so we don't have to do more fabrication), especially
after 8+ years on the rest of the airplane.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Trying to keep the engine cool in the Florida heat....
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | 6A with AFP - looking for potential exhaust systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
Anyone out there with a 6A and AFP injection - what did you use for exhaust systems
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> This may be another difference between the nosewheel and tailwheel
versions.
> On my tailwheel -6 the landing gear fairings make it impossible to remove
> the lower cowl by dropping it vertically. To remove the lower cowl, I pull
> the fasteners, then the cowl will drop an inch or so. At that point, the
aft
> edge is resting on the gear leg fairings and the front is captured by the
> spinner, with a soft rag between the spinner and cowl. I use the ledge
where
> the aft cowl rests as a hinge point of sorts to lower the front of the
cowl
> (you've gotta flex it to clear the spinner). Once the front of the cowl is
> free and clear of the spinner, I slide the entire cowl forward and off of
> the gear leg fairing/hinge points to free it. Doable with 2 hands,
> preferable to have a helper.
Your mileage is definitely gonna vary on this one (particularly
tailwheel/nosewheel differences). To the original poster -- there is no
hard and fast answer.
My setup, just for another data point, is the opposite of Kyle's. I have
sliced the forward tops of my leg fairings away completely. It gets hidden
by the upper intersection fairings anyway. My process is: unscrew and drop
the upper intersection fairings. The top cowl goes straight down
vertically. No tipping or tilting required. In fact, if you tilt it, it
ain't gonna drop.
Getting it back on, it's the same deal. I get it in position fore/aft and
then raise it straight on up into position.
With a nosewheel setup, you don't have the mains or those fairings to deal
with. This is good. But you do have the nosegear strut. I suspect if you
cut a long enough SLOT in the bottom of your cowl, you'll be able to drop
the lower cowl down vertically. But that means you'll have a huge honkin'
hole there, like I think somebody else already mentioned.
So it will probably be a compromise, imho, of how much you want to slice
away, how much gap you need, and how much tilting of the cowl you need to
do. So I think everybody who has posted so far is correct in their own
right! ;-)
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (690 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV Builder Websites |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
RV Builder (Michael Sausen) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
>
> Paul,
>
> Very nice upgrade. Much better than the old site! One comment
>though. Is there a way you can add a selection to show logs
>sequentially from most current? I know most of my friends/family like
>to follow my progress as I go and I don't see any easy way for them to
>know what I am currently working on. Maybe have that as some sort of
>default view under the construction logs? Also, how about a running
>counter for total hours.
>
> One last comment. When you are in a set of logs, clicking on previous
>takes you ahead in the entries. Seems backwards as I would expect it to
>go back by entry. For example, say you have 3 logs, one for 11/15,
>11/16, and 11/17. If you are on 11/16 and click previous, it takes you
>to 11/17.
>
> Keeps getting better, keep up the good work!
>
>Thanks,
>Michael Sausen
>-10 #352 Waiting on fuselage
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV Builder Websites
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
>
>do not archive
>
>Listers, we have completely redesigned the MyKitLog section of our
>website, and there are currently 38 RV builder websites being hosted on
>our servers. It's a great resource for builders out there to see how
>others are doing things.
>
>You do not need to be a KitLog Pro user to view the websites, as they
>are all publicly viewable.
>
>You can view the websites at www.kitlog.com/mykitlog.
>You can search by builder, location, type, etc. Or, to see the entire
>list, leave the search field blank.
>
>Paul Besing
>
The Top Posters among us should have no problem with that system.....
Charlie
(ducking, covering, -)
do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Failure Mode |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Did he have a wing leveler/autopilot and was it affected?
Ron Lee
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: RV-9A: Relationship between top cowl and prop spinner back-plate |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/21/2005 6:39:24 PM Central Standard Time,
kboatright1@comcast.net writes:
On my tailwheel -6
>>>
Ah HAH! That would make a difference-
do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | 6A with AFP - looking for potential exhaust systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen"
> <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> Fellow listers,
>
> Anyone out there with a 6A and AFP injection - what did you
> use for exhaust systems
>
> Thanks,
> Ralph Capen
Vetterman crossover - no parts even close.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 691 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Coldenhoff <rvlist@rv9a.deru.com>
DO NOT ARCHIVE
PLEASE do not reply on the list. Email me directly
at this address: forsale@rv9a.deru.com
I have a few items for sale at substantial
savings from retail prices. All are in
excellent condition.
* Flightcom 4DX Classic headset. Mono/Stereo
switch, volume, articulated boom mic. $85.
* Flightcom Eclipse headset. Mono/Stereo switch,
volume, boom mic. Soft carry bag. $75.
* Aircraft Painting 101 by Sam James. VHS. $15.
* Orndorff Aircraft Sheet Metal Tools. VHS. $15.
* Jeppesen's Aircraft Corrosion Control book. $10.
* Jeppesen's Aircraft Sheet Metal book. $12.
* Avionics Troubleshooting and Repair book by
Edward Maher. $25.
* These items I would prefer go as a set:
- S-601-1 FG Spinner Bowl 13"
- S-605 Front plate, 11"
- S-602-1 Back plate, 13" FP, CS, Sen.
All items undrilled, uncut. $125.
* Central Hydraulics 2 ton shop crane. $125.
See Harbor Freight item 7620-2VGA.
** NOT SHIPPABLE. See below **
PLEASE do not reply on the list. Email me directly
at this address: forsale@rv9a.deru.com
TERMS: All prices include shipping to lower 48 US states.
Use PayPal and I will ship ASAP. Otherwise, certified
check or MO for exact amount must clear the bank first.
I am in the Phoenix, AZ area. Pick up or arrange to
fly in to KGEU. The shop crane will not be shipped. You
pick up at KGYR, or I can deliver it within a reasonable
distance in the Phoenix area.
--
Tim Coldenhoff
RV-9a N194TC - Flying!
http://rv9a.deru.com
Message 31
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| Subject: | RV Builder Websites |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
Charlie,
You must enjoy lighting the fuse.
Do Not Archive
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
(Waiting on Fuselage)
The Top Posters among us should have no problem with that system.....
Charlie
(ducking, covering, -)
do not archive
-
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Paul Besing
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV Builder Websites
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
>You can view the websites at www.kitlog.com/mykitlog.
>You can search by builder, location, type, etc. Or, to see the entire
>list, leave the search field blank.
>
>Paul Besing
>
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