Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:03 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (Jamie Painter)
2. 04:33 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
3. 05:07 AM - 2" ID firesleeve? (Glen Matejcek)
4. 05:16 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (Snow, Daniel A.)
5. 05:41 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and Clecos (Charlie Kuss)
6. 06:02 AM - GX60 internal battery - 2nd attempt (Ralph E. Capen)
7. 06:19 AM - Re: GX60 internal battery - 2nd attempt (Pat Hatch)
8. 07:31 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
9. 07:35 AM - Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines (Valovich, Paul)
10. 07:55 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (Jim)
11. 08:02 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
12. 08:34 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (Gerns25@netscape.net)
13. 08:34 AM - Re: GX60 internal battery - 2nd attempt (RV6 Flyer)
14. 08:45 AM - Re: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines (RV6 Flyer)
15. 09:13 AM - address change (mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com)
16. 09:36 AM - Re: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines (Jim Jewell)
17. 10:15 AM - Fw: Re: AeroElectric-List: GX60 internal battery (Ralph E. Capen)
18. 11:00 AM - Jon Johanson Seats For Sale (Robin Marks)
19. 11:07 AM - Re: looking for potential exhaust systems ()
20. 11:44 AM - Re: Re: looking for potential exhaust systems (Ralph E. Capen)
21. 11:45 AM - 912ULS Spark Plugs and Oil Filters (jim)
22. 11:56 AM - Re: 912ULS Spark Plugs and Oil Filters (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
23. 12:32 PM - Re: 912ULS Spark Plugs and Oil Filters (Dan Checkoway)
24. 03:40 PM - Re: polished/painted airplane pics (Matt Johnson)
25. 04:10 PM - Re: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines (Robert Enos II)
26. 04:29 PM - Re: polished/painted airplane pics (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Darrell Reiley)
27. 05:58 PM - What We Are Thankful For... (Matt Dralle)
28. 06:02 PM - Re: polished/painted airplane pics (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Evan and Megan Johnson)
29. 07:48 PM - List Contributions (Mannan J. Thomason)
30. 08:20 PM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (Steven DiNieri)
31. 09:11 PM - Fuel cap engraving....Going cheap costs more (Ron Lee)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jamie Painter <jamie@jpainter.org>
gerns25@netscape.net wrote:
>While building the Horiz. stabilizer I have found that after dimpling the skin
and the ribs, the 3/32" clecos don't hold for anything...the spring in the skin
pulls them out of 90% of the holes. I match drilled all the flush rivets using
the #40 bit and dimpled everything using the 3/32" dimple die set. The holes
are just a hair too large for the clecos. Has anyone else had this problem?
Another thing, it seems as though this only happens in the ribs (thinner
material), the rear and forward spar don't have the problem. I dimpled this stuff
with my pneumatic squeezer if that makes a difference. I know there is not
a whole lot I can to about it now but can someone give me some advice for the
future skins?
>
>
Wow Darin. Strange.
I have occasionally seen this but it's pretty rare. I would check the
following:
1) Make sure your #40 bit is spinning true in the drill. Sometimes if
you punch through a hole and you're not careful you can bend the
bit...especially with the #40's. A wobbling drill bit will create a
bigger and almost always undesirable hole.
2) I've made multiple orders of 3/32nd clecos and one order I received
had different sized 'grippers' on them. They were slightly larger in
that I couldn't get them into the pre-punched holes on the skins. It
was odd. Cleaveland was great about it and sent me some more which were
fine and would slide right in the holes with no effort. I would check
your clecos to make sure they are the proper size. Maybe they're just a
little under sized? I could hold an old cleco and the oversized cleco
next to each other and visually see the difference. Maybe you could
find a hole that a cleco is gripping into and pull the cleco, then try
that cleco in another hole that would previously not grip??
3) As mentioned earlier, check to ensure you're not using tank dies.
The tank dies I borrowed from another builder were labeled with a 'T'.
Best,
Jamie Painter
--
RV-7A Fuselage Plumbing
http://rv.jpainter.org
Message 2
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| Subject: | Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
-
Subject: RV-List: Dimpled skin and clecos
--> RV-List message posted by: gerns25@netscape.net
#40 bit and dimpled everything using the 3/32" dimple die set. The
holes are just a hair too large for the clecos. Has anyone else had
this problem? Another thing, it seems as though this only happens in
the ribs (thinner material), the
Darin Hawkes
Darin: I have noticed that not all clecos are created equal. If you
have more than one brand or lot, try different ones. Also check to be
sure that your thinner material is not being over dimpled.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 3
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| Subject: | 2" ID firesleeve? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi Mickey,
>Anyone know where I can get some 2" ID firesleeve?
You might also try Earl's Performance Plumbing. I believe they have sites
in England and the Ukraine.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 4
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| Subject: | Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Snow, Daniel A." <Daniel.Snow@wancdf.com>
I bought a high-rpm corded drill from Grizzly that seems to have a bit of runout
on the chuck. This causes the bits to wobble and enlarges holes if I leave
the bit running in the hole. I run the bit in and out of the holes as fast as
I can and haven't had a problem with oversized holes. Also, I'm not sure about
this, but the jobbers seem to be slightly larger at the tip than the rest of
the body, so I don't allow the tip to stay at the hole entrance.
Daniel
9A Wings, tanks almost done :)
I checked the archives for information on this subject but found none. The problem
I am having is this:
While building the Horiz. stabilizer I have found that after dimpling the skin
and the ribs, the 3/32" clecos don't hold for anything...the spring in the skin
pulls them out of 90% of the holes. I match drilled all the flush rivets using
the #40 bit and dimpled everything using the 3/32" dimple die set. The holes
are just a hair too large for the clecos. Has anyone else had this problem?
Another thing, it seems as though this only happens in the ribs (thinner material),
the rear and forward spar don't have the problem. I dimpled this stuff
with my pneumatic squeezer if that makes a difference. I know there is not
a whole lot I can to about it now but can someone give me some advice for the
future skins?
Darin Hawkes
RV7 Empennage
N619PB reserved
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpled skin and Clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Darin,
Check your drill for wobble and run out as previously mentioned by other
listers. How are you de burring your rivet holes? If you are using that red
handled de burring tool sold by Avery and others, I suspect you are being
to aggressive with the tool. This will enlarge the hole. I suggest you
switch to using an angle die grinder with 2" ScotchBrite discs to de burr
the holes. This removes the burs, without enlarging the hole.
Another possible problem is that the pin on your male dimple die was
machined to a "to large" diameter. This will also enlarge the hole.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: gerns25@netscape.net
>
>I checked the archives for information on this subject but found
>none. The problem I am having is this:
>
>While building the Horiz. stabilizer I have found that after dimpling the
>skin and the ribs, the 3/32" clecos don't hold for anything...the spring
>in the skin pulls them out of 90% of the holes. I match drilled all the
>flush rivets using the #40 bit and dimpled everything using the 3/32"
>dimple die set. The holes are just a hair too large for the clecos. Has
>anyone else had this problem? Another thing, it seems as though this only
>happens in the ribs (thinner material), the rear and forward spar don't
>have the problem. I dimpled this stuff with my pneumatic squeezer if that
>makes a difference. I know there is not a whole lot I can to about it now
>but can someone give me some advice for the future skins?
>
>Darin Hawkes
>RV7 Empennage
>N619PB reserved
>Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
>Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
>http://mail.netscape.com
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | GX60 internal battery - 2nd attempt |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Noone responded on the first attempt
Fellow listers,
I am getting an error message stating that my internal battery needs service in
my GX60. The unit continues to function - I just have to press the msg button
every few minutes.
This only started since I upgraded the datacard - that may be coincidental though.
Anyone else seen this? Is it home-repairable...with the correct battery? I have
done some miniature soldering so I could probably do it......
The archives show some of the portable units needing a similar repair - being done
by the owner. Sure would save some RV gas money!
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
Message 7
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| Subject: | GX60 internal battery - 2nd attempt |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Ralph,
Have you posted this on the Aeroelectric list as well? I don't know the
answer but I have a GX60 and I'm sure many of us are waiting to see if there
is a solution.
Do not archive
Pat
RV-6
RV-7
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Noone responded on the first attempt
Fellow listers,
I am getting an error message stating that my internal battery needs service
in my GX60. The unit continues to function - I just have to press the msg
button every few minutes.
This only started since I upgraded the datacard - that may be coincidental
though.
Anyone else seen this? Is it home-repairable...with the correct battery? I
have done some miniature soldering so I could probably do it......
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/22/05 9:59:40 PM Central Standard Time,
gerns25@netscape.net writes:
> While building the Horiz. stabilizer I have found that after dimpling the
> skin and the ribs, the 3/32" clecos don't hold for anything...the spring in
> the skin pulls them out of 90% of the holes.
>>>>
Hi Darin-
The problem might be the clecos- I had two different brands and one would
consistently not hold as well as the other- might want to check this. If you are
drilling #40 and using the right dimple dies (sounds like it) it "should" be
fine- check the dimples by dropping a -3 rivet in the hole and see if it is a
good fit (flush at the head to skin surface). Also possible you are deburring
too deeply and enlarging the holes- make darn sure you don't deburr a
countersink on both sides of the hole so the edges meet in the middle and make
the
hole larger! Some builders use #41 bits for match drilling (self included),
provided the dimple dies fit OK without cracking the edges of the hole when
dimpling. This might help some, but I'd check the clecos first...
Mark Phillips -6A slobuild- flying
Message 9
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| Subject: | Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
I'm at the engine selection stage of my -8A QB project. Pretty much
decided on a new IO-360. I've been very impressed by Vans, Superior and
Aerosport regarding engine options and customer support, but still have
an unanswered question:
Are there any performance / reliability differences between horizontal
and vertical induction engines?
So far the only answers I've gotten have to do with aesthetics -
removing the scoop - which begs the question: Is the aesthetic value of
a horizontal induction engine worth the $1800 jump in price (Aerosport)?
Seems to me there has to be other factors, but so far I haven't been
smart enough to figure them out.
I'm leaning toward Aerosport - dealing with them just feels right.
Anyone have any goods or others comments on their Great White North
experiences?
Paul Valovich
"Booger"
Ridgecrest, CA
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim <n144hr@earthlink.net>
I had that problem with my 6 and found out that the money I saved buying cheap
clecoes cost me in the long run. Buy the good clecoes from Van's or Avery. Also,
after building the 6 I found that the dimple dies from Avery were the best.
My neighbor drills his holes with a 3/32 drill instead of #40 and doesn't
have this problem. I don't recommend it if you are short on patience because
getting the cleco in before the skin is dimpled is a PITA.
Time: 08:31:54 PM PST US
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dimpled skin and clecos
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Darin, occasionally I had that problem but it would only be about 1% of the
holes. Dimpling definitely makes the hole larger though. Are you using tank
dimple dies from Cleveland, they will make a larger hole?
Greg
RV8
>
> I checked the archives for information on this subject but found none.
The problem I am having is this:
>
> While building the Horiz. stabilizer I have found that after dimpling the
skin and the ribs, the 3/32" clecos don't hold for anything...the spring in
the skin pulls them out of 90% of the holes. I match drilled all the flush
rivets using the #40 bit and dimpled everything using the 3/32" dimple die
set. The holes are just a hair too large for the clecos. Has anyone else
had this problem? Another thing, it seems as though this only happens in
the ribs (thinner material), the rear and forward spar don't have the
problem. I dimpled this stuff with my pneumatic squeezer if that makes a
difference. I know there is not a whole lot I can to about it now but can
someone give me some advice for the future skins?
>
> Darin Hawkes
> RV7 Empennage
> N619PB reserved
> Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
> Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
> http://mail.netscape.com
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
I've run into this before. With tools like a pneumatic squeezer or,
in my case, the DRDT-2 dimpler it is possible to over dimple. When you
over dimple a hole it will enlarge it just enough so the cleco won't
hold. The dimple looks fine but the cleco tends to pop out. Back off
your dimple sets a little and the problem should go away.
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 waiting on fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gerns25@netscape.net
Subject: RV-List: Dimpled skin and clecos
--> RV-List message posted by: gerns25@netscape.net
I checked the archives for information on this subject but found none.
The problem I am having is this:
While building the Horiz. stabilizer I have found that after dimpling
the skin and the ribs, the 3/32" clecos don't hold for anything...the
spring in the skin pulls them out of 90% of the holes. I match drilled
all the flush rivets using the #40 bit and dimpled everything using the
3/32" dimple die set. The holes are just a hair too large for the
clecos. Has anyone else had this problem? Another thing, it seems as
though this only happens in the ribs (thinner material), the rear and
forward spar don't have the problem. I dimpled this stuff with my
pneumatic squeezer if that makes a difference. I know there is not a
whole lot I can to about it now but can someone give me some advice for
the future skins?
Darin Hawkes
RV7 Empennage
N619PB reserved
Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
http://mail.netscape.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerns25@netscape.net
Fellow listers,
Thanks for the information on. The clecos I am using are the ones made by California
Assoc. Products. As far as deburring goes, I use the die grinder/scotchbrite
pad approach so that shouldn't be the problem. The rivets fit great in
the dimples so I am thinking it may be my clecos. I will try to borrow a couple
different brands to see which ones work the best. I may also try the #41
bit idea. Thanks,
Darin Hawkes
Do not archive
Jim <n144hr@earthlink.net> wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim <n144hr@earthlink.net>
>
>
>I had that problem with my 6 and found out that the money I saved buying cheap
clecoes cost me in the long run. Buy the good clecoes from Van's or Avery. Also,
after building the 6 I found that the dimple dies from Avery were the best.
My neighbor drills his holes with a 3/32 drill instead of #40 and doesn't have
this problem. I don't recommend it if you are short on patience because getting
the cleco in before the skin is dimpled is a PITA.
>
>
>Time: 08:31:54 PM PST US
>From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Dimpled skin and clecos
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>
>Darin, occasionally I had that problem but it would only be about 1% of the
>holes. Dimpling definitely makes the hole larger though. Are you using tank
>dimple dies from Cleveland, they will make a larger hole?
>
>Greg
>RV8
>
>>
>> I checked the archives for information on this subject but found none.
>The problem I am having is this:
>>
>> While building the Horiz. stabilizer I have found that after dimpling the
>skin and the ribs, the 3/32" clecos don't hold for anything...the spring in
>the skin pulls them out of 90% of the holes. I match drilled all the flush
>rivets using the #40 bit and dimpled everything using the 3/32" dimple die
>set. The holes are just a hair too large for the clecos. Has anyone else
>had this problem? Another thing, it seems as though this only happens in
>the ribs (thinner material), the rear and forward spar don't have the
>problem. I dimpled this stuff with my pneumatic squeezer if that makes a
>difference. I know there is not a whole lot I can to about it now but can
>someone give me some advice for the future skins?
>>
>> Darin Hawkes
>> RV7 Empennage
>> N619PB reserved
>> Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
>> Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
>> http://mail.netscape.com
>>
>>
>
>
Switch to Netscape Internet Service.
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Message 13
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| Subject: | GX60 internal battery - 2nd attempt |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
The user manual is located at:
http://www.garmin.com/manuals/GX60IFRGPS_COMM_UserGuide.pdf
Page 13-2 says:
The Apollo GX memory is maintained by a lithium battery. The expected
service life of this type of battery is from four to six years. This is not
a user replaceale item. The lithium battery must be replaced by the
factory, an authorized dealer, or service center.
Maybe they will tell us how to do it if we call the manufacturer.
(for Apollo aircraft
products only)
- Monday Friday
- 8 a.m. 4:30 p.m.
Pacific time (closed holidays)
- (503) 391-3411 ext.3991
- 1-800-525-6726 ext.3991 (U.S.)
- 1-800-654-3415 ext.3991 (CAN)
Keep us posted if you find anything out. I have one of these radios and
will have the same issue in the future. I am one that may just open it up
to see where it is. I can solder and have an ESD awareness certification
class that is required as part of my job. I know how to set up a ESD work
bench to work on the radio. (ESD = Electro Static Discharge)
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,814 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: GX60 internal battery - 2nd attempt
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Ralph,
Have you posted this on the Aeroelectric list as well? I don't know the
answer but I have a GX60 and I'm sure many of us are waiting to see if there
is a solution.
Do not archive
Pat
RV-6
RV-7
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Noone responded on the first attempt
Fellow listers,
I am getting an error message stating that my internal battery needs service
in my GX60. The unit continues to function - I just have to press the msg
button every few minutes.
This only started since I upgraded the datacard - that may be coincidental
though.
Anyone else seen this? Is it home-repairable...with the correct battery? I
have done some miniature soldering so I could probably do it......
Message 14
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| Subject: | Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Paul:
The Horizontal Induction can also be called "Cold Air Induction". All the
Lycoming manuals say that there is a 1% increase in horsepower for every 10
degree F drop below standard temperature.
The vertical induction goes right through the oil sump. There is in theory
some heat transfer from the oil to the induction air / fuel mixture. For
every 10 degrees F that you lower this temperature, there is a 1% increase
in horsepower.
With a carb, I prefer the vertical induction. With fuel injection, the
horizontal or cold air induction SHOULD give you a more tuned intake with
less resistance to the flow of air and a cooler air charge for each
cylinder. In theory the horizontal induction will provide more horsepower.
The design of the filter in front of the intake system also has some effect
on the induction system. The "Snorkel" sold by Van does not have the
manifold pressure gain that the FAB or RAM air intakes claim to have. In
actual flight, does this report 0.5 to 1.0" MP gain really make much
difference?
My O-320 is an updraft (vertical) carb. The replacement IO-360 I am looking
at is planned to have horizontal (cold air) induction.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,814 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines
--> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
I'm at the engine selection stage of my -8A QB project. Pretty much
decided on a new IO-360. I've been very impressed by Vans, Superior and
Aerosport regarding engine options and customer support, but still have
an unanswered question:
Are there any performance / reliability differences between horizontal
and vertical induction engines?
So far the only answers I've gotten have to do with aesthetics -
removing the scoop - which begs the question: Is the aesthetic value of
a horizontal induction engine worth the $1800 jump in price (Aerosport)?
Seems to me there has to be other factors, but so far I haven't been
smart enough to figure them out.
I'm leaning toward Aerosport - dealing with them just feels right.
Anyone have any goods or others comments on their Great White North
experiences?
Paul Valovich
"Booger"
Ridgecrest, CA
Message 15
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com
Please change my address:
old address: mimartin@sweetwaterhsa.com
New address: mimartin@wyoming.com
Thank you
Mickey Martin
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Paul,
AeroSport Power is easily among the most highly regarded companies. Bart is
very customer conscious and he enjoys very high recommendations from his
customers around the world.
I have yet hear of or meet anyone that has regretted doing business with
him.
Jim in Kelowna, in the great white North - Prepping the fuse for paint
--- Original Message -----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
> I'm at the engine selection stage of my -8A QB project. Pretty much
> decided on a new IO-360. I've been very impressed by Vans, Superior and
> Aerosport regarding engine options and customer support, but still have
> an unanswered question:
>
>
> Are there any performance / reliability differences between horizontal
> and vertical induction engines?
>
>
> So far the only answers I've gotten have to do with aesthetics -
> removing the scoop - which begs the question: Is the aesthetic value of
> a horizontal induction engine worth the $1800 jump in price (Aerosport)?
> Seems to me there has to be other factors, but so far I haven't been
> smart enough to figure them out.
>
>
> I'm leaning toward Aerosport - dealing with them just feels right.
> Anyone have any goods or others comments on their Great White North
> experiences?
>
> Paul Valovich
>
> "Booger"
>
> Ridgecrest, CA
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Re: AeroElectric-List: GX60 internal battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
-----Forwarded Message-----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: AeroElectric-List: GX60 internal battery
Just called Garmin-AT - got lucky.....
There is a difference between dead battery and needs service....the needs service
indicates that the unit is charging the battery and could vent into the system.
If the battery was dead I would have gotten a different error message.
According to the service technician......
Good news is that since my airplane has not flown - it is still covered by warranty...great
- allows me to test prior to first flight.
Ralph Capen
RV6A N822AR N06 90% 90%
-----Original Message-----
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Subject: AeroElectric-List: GX60 internal battery
--> AeroElectric-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
I am getting an error message stating that my internal battery needs service in
my GX60. The unit continues to function - I just have to press the msg button
every few minutes.
This only started since I upgraded the datacard - that may be coincidental though.
Anyone else seen this? Is it home-repairable...with the correct battery? I have
done some miniature soldering so I could probably do it......
The archives show some of the portable units needing a similar repair - being done
by the owner. Sure would save some RV gas money!
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Jon Johanson Seats For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
RV-List,
I purchased two Jon Johanson seats from Jon and imported
them into the US around July of this year. I have decided not to use
these beautiful seats in my application and am offering them for sale on
the list. All in I have almost $2,200 in these but will sell for $1,400
plus shipping from California. Photos can be viewed at
www.PaintTheWeb.com/rv Any questions please call or email off list.
Robin
805-541-9500
805-801-8550 Cell
Robin@PaintTheWeb.com
Do Not Archive
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: looking for potential exhaust systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Very happy with
http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/
Check out the 4 into 1
Tell them RV-7 George (custom 4 into 1) sent you.
They make custom exhaust and have off the shelf.
They have very efficent heat muff technology and I think
they not make a muffler (sound) heat muff (heat) combo.
George
---------------------------------
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: looking for potential exhaust systems |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
George,
Is yours a 7A.....?
I looked on their site and have had numerous exchanges with them. They would need
to do a custom for me - I have a 6A and AFP injection.
Doing the research for now.
Thanks,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
From: gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: looking for potential exhaust systems
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Very happy with
http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/
Check out the 4 into 1
Tell them RV-7 George (custom 4 into 1) sent you.
They make custom exhaust and have off the shelf.
They have very efficent heat muff technology and I think
they not make a muffler (sound) heat muff (heat) combo.
George
---------------------------------
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | 912ULS Spark Plugs and Oil Filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jim" <jim@pellien.com>
Does anybody know of a cheap place to buy spark plugs and oil filters for the Rotax
912ULS engine?
Jim
Jim Pellien
Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
www.MASPL.com
703-313-4818
jim@sportsplanes.com
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
>Very happy with
>
> http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/
>
> Check out the 4 into 1
>
> Tell them RV-7 George (custom 4 into 1) sent you.
>
> They make custom exhaust and have off the shelf.
>
> They have very efficent heat muff technology and I think
> they not make a muffler (sound) heat muff (heat) combo.
>
> George
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
Sent via the WebMail system at Engage IT
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: 912ULS Spark Plugs and Oil Filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
In a message dated 11/23/05 2:47:46 PM Eastern Standard Time, jim@pellien.com
writes:
> Does anybody know of a cheap place to buy spark plugs and oil filters for
> the Rotax 912ULS engine?
>
Oil Filter:
If my memory serves me....a Fram PH3614 is the one you need
or you can even cross it over to other brands. A 4 cyl Chrysler K-car
I think is the application .
Do a search on Google.com to be sure.
RV-4
RV-8 QB .... Fuselage
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: 912ULS Spark Plugs and Oil Filters |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I don't know the exact plug you're looking for, but I'm pretty sure Spruce
sells 'em. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/ngk.php
The best deal I found on NGK spark plugs (if that's what you're after) was
at Rock Auto. http://www.rockauto.com/ That was as of a few months ago.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (693 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "jim" <jim@pellien.com>
Subject: RV-List: 912ULS Spark Plugs and Oil Filters
> --> RV-List message posted by: "jim" <jim@pellien.com>
>
> Does anybody know of a cheap place to buy spark plugs and oil filters for
the Rotax 912ULS engine?
>
> Jim
>
> Jim Pellien
> Mid-Atlantic Sports Planes
> www.MASPL.com
> 703-313-4818
> jim@sportsplanes.com
>
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> From: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
> Date: Wed, 23 Nov 2005 11:06:53 -0800 (PST)
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Very happy with
> >
> > http://www.aircraftexhaust.net/
> >
> > Check out the 4 into 1
> >
> > Tell them RV-7 George (custom 4 into 1) sent you.
> >
> > They make custom exhaust and have off the shelf.
> >
> > They have very efficent heat muff technology and I think
> > they not make a muffler (sound) heat muff (heat) combo.
> >
> > George
> >
> >
> >---------------------------------
> >
> >
>
>
> Sent via the WebMail system at Engage IT
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: polished/painted airplane pics |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Those half paint/half polished RV's look pretty good, never seen one before. Probably
a lot of maintenance though...
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: polished/painted airplane pics
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
>
> On 11/22 7:56, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >
> > I spent the weekend going though tons of RV websites looking for
> polished planes.....found very few. Just wondering if any of you guys
> can narrow the search for me. I just wanted to get some pictures to use
> as inspiration for paint schemes. There was an RV 8 I saw at Vans
> homecoming last year that was red on the front and had a polished
> tailcone...very pretty. Also for those who have not seen it check the
> link below to a picture of Jon Scholl's paint job.......its in the
> completions section on Vans site.
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/images/first_flight/Scholl_lg.jpg Too cool,
> but maybe bad Ju Ju :)
>
> I saved a bunch of images that I liked that were half paint half
> polished aluminum, they can be found here.
>
> http://www.rv7-a.com/paintschemes
>
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
> Flying!
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert Enos II" <rje2@charter.net>
I recently picked up my TMX IO360 from Mattituck who were great to deal
with. With the Horiz. induction the air charge does not pass thru the hot
oil in the sump
therefore the air is colder resulting in greater performance. Give Mahlon a
call at Mattituck he sure knows his stuff.
Rob Enos
Westport, MA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
> I'm at the engine selection stage of my -8A QB project. Pretty much
> decided on a new IO-360. I've been very impressed by Vans, Superior and
> Aerosport regarding engine options and customer support, but still have
> an unanswered question:
>
>
> Are there any performance / reliability differences between horizontal
> and vertical induction engines?
>
>
> So far the only answers I've gotten have to do with aesthetics -
> removing the scoop - which begs the question: Is the aesthetic value of
> a horizontal induction engine worth the $1800 jump in price (Aerosport)?
> Seems to me there has to be other factors, but so far I haven't been
> smart enough to figure them out.
>
>
> I'm leaning toward Aerosport - dealing with them just feels right.
> Anyone have any goods or others comments on their Great White North
> experiences?
>
> Paul Valovich
>
> "Booger"
>
> Ridgecrest, CA
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: polished/painted airplane pics (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
You keep 3-4 cans of polish and a box of rags around the hanger. When anyone stops
by to admire the plane you hand them a few rags and some polish.
Darrell
do not archive
Matt Johnson <matt@n559rv.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson"
Those half paint/half polished RV's look pretty good, never seen one before. Probably
a lot of maintenance though...
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Walter Tondu
Subject: Re: RV-List: polished/painted airplane pics
> --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu
>
> On 11/22 7:56, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
>
> >
> > I spent the weekend going though tons of RV websites looking for
> polished planes.....found very few. Just wondering if any of you guys
> can narrow the search for me. I just wanted to get some pictures to use
> as inspiration for paint schemes. There was an RV 8 I saw at Vans
> homecoming last year that was red on the front and had a polished
> tailcone...very pretty. Also for those who have not seen it check the
> link below to a picture of Jon Scholl's paint job.......its in the
> completions section on Vans site.
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/images/first_flight/Scholl_lg.jpg Too cool,
> but maybe bad Ju Ju :)
>
> I saved a bunch of images that I liked that were half paint half
> polished aluminum, they can be found here.
>
> http://www.rv7-a.com/paintschemes
>
> --
> Walter Tondu
> http://www.rv7-a.com
> Flying!
>
>
>
>
>
>
Darrell
RV7A - 622DR Reserved
---------------------------------
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | What We Are Thankful For... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
In the United States, Thursday is our National day of Thanksgiving. Many of us
will be traveling to be with our families and friends and share in generous feasts
of plenty.
Many have expressed over the last couple of weeks how thankful they are for the
Aviation Lists here on the Matronics servers and for all of the assistance and
comradery they have experienced being a part of the Lists. I think one of my
favorite comments is when someone says something like, "Its the first thing
I do in the morning while I'm having my morning coffee!". That's a wonderful
tribute to the purpose and function of these Lists. Its always great to hear
I'm not the only one that jumps out of bed each morning to check my List email!!
I'm not sure why, but the number of Contributions have been a little low this year
compared to years past. Hopefully people are just waiting until the last
minute to make their List Support Contribution this year.
Won't you take a minute today and show your appreciation for these Lists and for
their continued operation and upgrade? Don't make me beg... :-) lol
The List Contribution Site is:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thanks to everyone that already made their Contribution!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: polished/painted airplane pics (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Only half as much as you would expect :) I love the polished look but have
never been willing to put the effort into the maintenance. I just thought
that the mixed paint/polish scheme may be more manageable. There are some
beautiful planes out there! You guys rock......thanks for links...
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: polished/painted airplane pics (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> Those half paint/half polished RV's look pretty good, never seen one
before. Probably a lot of maintenance though...
>
> - Matt
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2005 11:59:55 -0500
> Subject: Re: RV-List: polished/painted airplane pics
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Walter Tondu <walter@tondu.com>
> >
> > On 11/22 7:56, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> > <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> > >
> > > I spent the weekend going though tons of RV websites looking for
> > polished planes.....found very few. Just wondering if any of you guys
> > can narrow the search for me. I just wanted to get some pictures to use
> > as inspiration for paint schemes. There was an RV 8 I saw at Vans
> > homecoming last year that was red on the front and had a polished
> > tailcone...very pretty. Also for those who have not seen it check the
> > link below to a picture of Jon Scholl's paint job.......its in the
> > completions section on Vans site.
> > http://www.vansaircraft.com/images/first_flight/Scholl_lg.jpg Too cool,
> > but maybe bad Ju Ju :)
> >
> > I saved a bunch of images that I liked that were half paint half
> > polished aluminum, they can be found here.
> >
> > http://www.rv7-a.com/paintschemes
> >
> > --
> > Walter Tondu
> > http://www.rv7-a.com
> > Flying!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | List Contributions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj@alltel.net>
List:
Matt's doing a fabulous job. I've made my pitifully small contribution to
the list. (I'm retarded----uhh---retired.) Please guys, if you think this
is worthwhile, give a little.
mannan
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Darin, the first thought is that maybe your deburring too aggressively. I
cant remember any clecos pulling through dimples unless I've drilled out a
bad rivet. If your certain the bit is #40 take a mic and check for mislabel.
Steve dinieri
N221rv
N231rv
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gerns25@netscape.net
Subject: RV-List: Dimpled skin and clecos
--> RV-List message posted by: gerns25@netscape.net
I checked the archives for information on this subject but found none. The
problem I am having is this:
While building the Horiz. stabilizer I have found that after dimpling the
skin and the ribs, the 3/32" clecos don't hold for anything...the spring in
the skin pulls them out of 90% of the holes. I match drilled all the flush
rivets using the #40 bit and dimpled everything using the 3/32" dimple die
set. The holes are just a hair too large for the clecos. Has anyone else
had this problem? Another thing, it seems as though this only happens in
the ribs (thinner material), the rear and forward spar don't have the
problem. I dimpled this stuff with my pneumatic squeezer if that makes a
difference. I know there is not a whole lot I can to about it now but can
someone give me some advice for the future skins?
Darin Hawkes
RV7 Empennage
N619PB reserved
Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
http://mail.netscape.com
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Fuel cap engraving....Going cheap costs more |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
I saw a nice fuel cap engraving on Dan's website and mentioned it to another
RV pilot who will remain nameless. This anomalous RV pilot suggested finding
a local engraver to do it so I looked around and found one.
This morning I took it in with a picture of the end result and got the cap back
several hours later. Not good. The engraving is nothing like what Bill
Esther
can do and is slightly offset. When discussing the fiasco (I seem to have
those)
with "what's his name" we both noted that the good job looks like a router type
cut as opposed to my cheap engraving pencil look.
I just looked at the website again and apparently it is CNC engraving:
http://www.rvproject.com/esther_engraving.html
So in trying to save a few bucks I effectively cosmetically ruined a fuel cap.
Of course it is not "you know who's" fault. In retrospect I did have subtle
indications that the job would not be what I wanted but it did not make it to
my "take the cap and run" brain synapses. I should have listened to Dan's
advise. Bad Ron bad.
Ron Lee
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