Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:39 AM - Re: List Contributions (Kevin Horton)
2. 04:54 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (wskimike)
3. 05:12 AM - Re: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines (wskimike)
4. 06:06 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (Darrell Reiley)
5. 07:34 AM - Re: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines (Chuck Jensen)
6. 08:29 AM - Re: Tip Light Indicators (Charlie England)
7. 08:36 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (Dick DeCramer)
8. 09:25 AM - Printer labels with white ink (James H Nelson)
9. 09:32 AM - Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (Smitty)
10. 10:47 AM - Re: Printer labels with white ink (Dick DeCramer)
11. 11:15 AM - Re: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines (G McNutt)
12. 11:19 AM - Re: Printer labels with white ink (Bruce Gray)
13. 11:45 AM - Contributions (Terry Watson)
14. 12:22 PM - Re: AeroElectric-List: Contributions (Mickey Coggins)
15. 12:56 PM - Re: Horizontal vs Vertical Induction Engines (Jim Jewell)
16. 02:39 PM - Engine bolts (George Inman)
17. 03:08 PM - Re: Engine bolts (Charlie Kuss)
18. 03:18 PM - Re: Printer labels with white ink (linn walters)
19. 03:31 PM - Re: Engine bolts (linn walters)
20. 04:19 PM - Re: Printer labels with white ink (Bob C.)
21. 04:38 PM - Re: Engine bolts (Jim Jewell)
22. 06:19 PM - Re: [SPAM] Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (Don Hall)
23. 08:58 PM - Re: [SPAM] Re: Dimpled skin and clecos (gerns25@netscape.net)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: List Contributions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 23 Nov 2005, at 22:47, Mannan J. Thomason wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mannan J. Thomason"
> <mannanj@alltel.net>
>
> List:
>
> Matt's doing a fabulous job. I've made my pitifully small
> contribution to
> the list. (I'm retarded----uhh---retired.) Please guys, if you
> think this
> is worthwhile, give a little.
The info I've gleaned from the list has saved me thousands of
dollars, and many hours. My RV-8 will be a much better aircraft
because of this list.
I've also made a bunch of new friends, and it is interesting to track
them down when I travel.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
If the drill bit is a #40 check your dimple dies and make sure you are using
the right size.
Mike Harris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dimpled skin and clecos
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
>
> Darin, the first thought is that maybe your deburring too aggressively. I
> cant remember any clecos pulling through dimples unless I've drilled out a
> bad rivet. If your certain the bit is #40 take a mic and check for
> mislabel.
>
> Steve dinieri
> N221rv
> N231rv
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gerns25@netscape.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Dimpled skin and clecos
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: gerns25@netscape.net
>
> I checked the archives for information on this subject but found none.
> The
> problem I am having is this:
>
> While building the Horiz. stabilizer I have found that after dimpling the
> skin and the ribs, the 3/32" clecos don't hold for anything...the spring
> in
> the skin pulls them out of 90% of the holes. I match drilled all the
> flush
> rivets using the #40 bit and dimpled everything using the 3/32" dimple die
> set. The holes are just a hair too large for the clecos. Has anyone else
> had this problem? Another thing, it seems as though this only happens in
> the ribs (thinner material), the rear and forward spar don't have the
> problem. I dimpled this stuff with my pneumatic squeezer if that makes a
> difference. I know there is not a whole lot I can to about it now but can
> someone give me some advice for the future skins?
>
> Darin Hawkes
> RV7 Empennage
> N619PB reserved
> Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
> Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
> http://mail.netscape.com
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
Carbs are different if you are not using fuel injection.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
> Hi Paul,
>
> AeroSport Power is easily among the most highly regarded companies. Bart
> is
> very customer conscious and he enjoys very high recommendations from his
> customers around the world.
>
> I have yet hear of or meet anyone that has regretted doing business with
> him.
>
> Jim in Kelowna, in the great white North - Prepping the fuse for paint
>
>
> --- Original Message -----
> From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>>
>> I'm at the engine selection stage of my -8A QB project. Pretty much
>> decided on a new IO-360. I've been very impressed by Vans, Superior and
>> Aerosport regarding engine options and customer support, but still have
>> an unanswered question:
>>
>>
>> Are there any performance / reliability differences between horizontal
>> and vertical induction engines?
>>
>>
>> So far the only answers I've gotten have to do with aesthetics -
>> removing the scoop - which begs the question: Is the aesthetic value of
>> a horizontal induction engine worth the $1800 jump in price (Aerosport)?
>> Seems to me there has to be other factors, but so far I haven't been
>> smart enough to figure them out.
>>
>>
>> I'm leaning toward Aerosport - dealing with them just feels right.
>> Anyone have any goods or others comments on their Great White North
>> experiences?
>>
>> Paul Valovich
>>
>> "Booger"
>>
>> Ridgecrest, CA
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
I would say mislabel or wrong bit. I would even double check the cleco. I had that
problem before on a batch of used clecos I bought... odd sized.
Darrell
wskimike <wskimike@mchsi.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike"
If the drill bit is a #40 check your dimple dies and make sure you are using
the right size.
Mike Harris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steven DiNieri"
Subject: RE: RV-List: Dimpled skin and clecos
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri"
>
> Darin, the first thought is that maybe your deburring too aggressively. I
> cant remember any clecos pulling through dimples unless I've drilled out a
> bad rivet. If your certain the bit is #40 take a mic and check for
> mislabel.
>
> Steve dinieri
> N221rv
> N231rv
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gerns25@netscape.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Dimpled skin and clecos
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: gerns25@netscape.net
>
> I checked the archives for information on this subject but found none.
> The
> problem I am having is this:
>
> While building the Horiz. stabilizer I have found that after dimpling the
> skin and the ribs, the 3/32" clecos don't hold for anything...the spring
> in
> the skin pulls them out of 90% of the holes. I match drilled all the
> flush
> rivets using the #40 bit and dimpled everything using the 3/32" dimple die
> set. The holes are just a hair too large for the clecos. Has anyone else
> had this problem? Another thing, it seems as though this only happens in
> the ribs (thinner material), the rear and forward spar don't have the
> problem. I dimpled this stuff with my pneumatic squeezer if that makes a
> difference. I know there is not a whole lot I can to about it now but can
> someone give me some advice for the future skins?
>
> Darin Hawkes
> RV7 Empennage
> N619PB reserved
> Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
> Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
> http://mail.netscape.com
>
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
Carbs are different if you are not using fuel injection.
Mike
No kidding!!
Chuck
Do Not Archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tip Light Indicators |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Howdy List-
>
>Occasionally one of my brain farts turns into something I think is pretty
>cool and I'd feel bad if I didn't share with y'all- if you don't like the little
>plexiglass blades (or other means) of telling if your tip lights are on,
>here's something that is embarrassingly cheap and easy to do- see:
>
>http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=7883
>
>Have fun!
>
>>From The PossumWorks in TN
>Mark -6A N51PW, 250 hours
>
This list is fun, but an occasional (too rare) nugget like this is what
homebuilding & this list are really about. You've shamed me into
whipping out my credit card for a donation.
Thanks, Mark
Charlie
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
.Problem....." I match drilled all the flush rivets using the #40 bit and
dimpled everything using the 3/32" dimple die
set. The holes are just a hair too large for the clecos. Has anyone else
had this problem?"
My experience building old, drill your own RV kits has made these points
obvious....
I bought my cleco's in about 1998 so things may have changed but most
builders had the same problems of insecure holding clecos and it is
normally the clecos. Cheap clecos from ATS and US Tool which were .02
cheaper than Avery and Cleaveland had tips that were not shaped as
consistently well. Brand name Clekoloc - USA were then sold by ATS/US Tool
and Wedgeloc was sold by Avery/Cleaveland. You can tell the difference as
the cheaper units have to be "tipped" into the hole since the tips do not,
when extended, close together to shape a "point" but rather just extend
leaving the builder to "tip" or force the prongs together to enter the
hole. There may be other brands but these are the only ones I know but I
do keep them segregated as the difference in performance is very noticeable.
Now for "popping" out of dimpled holes. The higher $$ clecos did better
but sometimes they did let go especially when doing high vibration jobs.
The cheaper clecos had a lower percentage of them that actually held
because the tips were not CONSISTENTLY well formed. Sometimes I could get
them to grip better by retracting the pin and turning them in the hole 90
degrees other times I place a scrap piece of aluminum just drilled, not
dimpled, behind the assembly to act as a washer to provide better gripping.
I have tried drilling the hole to # 41 (even #42) instead of #40 and found
problems with this. IF the dimple die enters this reduce hole with no
interference then okay but IF the dimple die is press fit or friction fit
then there is a problem. Examination with a strong magnifying glass will
show a slight cracking around your hole meaning stress risers have been
induced by forcing the pin of the dimple die into a tight undersize hole
meaning your deburring process was just ruined. The standard #40 hole
doesn't do this. Every builder should have a small cheap magnifying glass
handy to occasionally check work for stress risers which should be our goal
to eliminate. The rivet in a #40 hole which has been dimpled will have
extra play in the hole initially but after one blow with the rivet gun or,
if using a squeezer, the very first part of the squeeze, will cause the
entire rivet from head to shop end to expand filling the hole entirely.
Now continued driving of the rivet will produce the nice shaped shop head
we all strive for. So choosing the hole as #41 or #40 is more dependant on
the dimple die you have than the rivet but the whole process is designed
around #40 holes.
You can also have all the holes perfect and the when squeezing the dimple
die into the hole cause a crack or an oval hole if the squeezer side frame
runs against a rib or bulkhead. The leverage here is very great and the
thinner sheet will actually give rather than move the stationary rib
causing small cracks around one side of the hole. So be careful with the
squeezer when dimpling in tight fitting areas. The magnifying glass will
show the stress risers but the naked eye will miss them. I know of two low
time RV4's with cracks around screw holes at the fiberglass wingtip attach
points.
Blue Skies and happy riveting
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
100 Hours
Minnesota
Message 8
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| Subject: | Printer labels with white ink |
--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
I have a medium grey panel and need white letters on clear labels to note
functions. Who makes a white ink cartridge for what printer so I can
make some labels?
Jim Nelson
RV9-A (wiring done, on to the canopy)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Smitty" <smitty@smittysrv.com>
I was just reading these series of emails on this subject. So if someone has
already mentioned my suggestion, please pardon my repetition.
I saw on the Orndorff videos where he mentions using 2 short blasts of the
air drill when going in out of the holes for final drilling skins to ribs
and spars. Anything longer than a short "in and out" drilling session could
make the holes larger than desired.
Have a good turkey day, ya'll!
Smitty's RV-9A
http://SmittysRV.com
Message 10
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| Subject: | Printer labels with white ink |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
Jim...
I labeled my panel with a cheap battery operated "Brother P-Touch" label
maker and they had a cartridge with clear mylar tape and black and white
lettering which I had to order through "Viking Office Supply" at
www.viking.com . I think the tapes cost more than the machine. Due to my
font size requirements it took 2 cartridges to get all my labels made for
the entire airplane. The only negative is you must have very clean hands
and tools as any dirty prints on the sticky side of the clear label will
show through the label after it is in place. I used an Exacto knife and
stuck the label just in the tip of the blade and transferred it to the
panel. It looks very professional considering the low cost.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
100 Hrs.
Faribault, MN
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>
> I have a medium grey panel and need white letters on clear labels to note
> functions. Who makes a white ink cartridge for what printer so I can
> make some labels?
>
>
> Jim Nelson
> RV9-A (wiring done, on to the canopy)
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: G McNutt <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Hi Paul
Re Aero Sport Power
I drove to Kamloops on Tuesday and picked up my second Aero Sport engine.
Sadly, I learned that if you are an American, you may not get the free
hat with your engine. It's a Customs thing you see, hat made in China.
You should however get the bottle of touch-up paint.
Aero Sport had several engines ready to ship, they go as far as Europe
and Australia.
George In Langley BC
Do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>>I'm leaning toward Aerosport - dealing with them just feels right.
>>>Anyone have any goods or others comments on their Great White North
>>>experiences?
>>>
>>>Paul Valovich
>>>
>>>"Booger"
>>>
>>>Ridgecrest, CA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Printer labels with white ink |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
It continues to amaze me that some of our brethren will not blink twice when
spending 60-70k or more to buy and finish an RV, Lancair, or Glasair and
then wimp out when it comes to finishing the panel. What every pilot looks
at most of the time he's in his pride and joy.
The cost to get your panel professionally engraved is less then most of you
think.
FMI: www.engravers.net
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick DeCramer
Subject: RE: RV-List: Printer labels with white ink
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
Jim...
I labeled my panel with a cheap battery operated "Brother P-Touch" label
maker and they had a cartridge with clear mylar tape and black and white
lettering which I had to order through "Viking Office Supply" at
www.viking.com . I think the tapes cost more than the machine. Due to my
font size requirements it took 2 cartridges to get all my labels made for
the entire airplane. The only negative is you must have very clean hands
and tools as any dirty prints on the sticky side of the clear label will
show through the label after it is in place. I used an Exacto knife and
stuck the label just in the tip of the blade and transferred it to the
panel. It looks very professional considering the low cost.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
100 Hrs.
Faribault, MN
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>
> I have a medium grey panel and need white letters on clear labels to note
> functions. Who makes a white ink cartridge for what printer so I can
> make some labels?
>
>
> Jim Nelson
> RV9-A (wiring done, on to the canopy)
>
>
Message 13
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|
INNOCENT GLOBAL 0.0000 1.0000 -4.4912
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
I have a lot of subscriptions. My Wall Street Journal costs about $175 a
year; the Seattle Times another $135 or so. Then there are the business and
professional magazines, and the science and technology and political
periodicals, and the flying related magazines such as AOPA Pilot, EAA's
Sport Aviation, Plane & Pilot, Flying, Private Pilot, GA News, Kit Planes,
Light Plane Maintenance, and a few others that I can't think of at the
moment.
The point is that I spend well over a thousand dollars a year on newspaper
and magazine subscriptions, and none of them come close to giving me the
immediately useful information and entertainment that I get from just the
few of Matt's lists that I subscribe to. AOPA Pilot doesn't tell me as much
about flying experimental airplanes as just a few of test pilot Kevin
Horton's posts to the RV list do. Kit Planes doesn't come close to telling
me as much about building an RV as Sam Buchanan's or Dan Checkoway's web
sites do, which of course I would never have known about had it not been for
Matt's RV list. But I think the most impressive service that Matt brings to
us is Bob Nuckolls on the Aeroelectric list. I am constantly amazed at the
solid knowledge and patient good will that Bob brings to us about wiring
little airplanes, and he does it for free. I have learned much more from Bob
than the aeroelectric list name would suggest.
I may not have had the fortitude to keep plugging along on the great project
had it not been for the help and inspiration I get from reading the posts
from you guys who have gone before or the many who have started after and
already passed me by.
So let Matt know that he makes your life better. Send him some money, and
sleep soundly with a clear conscience, knowing that you have done your part
to support truth, justice, and the airplane builder's way.
Terry
RV-8A #80829
Finishing?
I promise it will fly someday.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Contributions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Well said, Terry!
> ... The point is that I spend well over a thousand dollars a year on newspaper
> and magazine subscriptions, and none of them come close to giving me the
> immediately useful information and entertainment that I get from just the
> few of Matt's lists that I subscribe to. AOPA Pilot doesn't tell me as much
> about flying experimental airplanes as just a few of test pilot Kevin
> Horton's posts to the RV list do. Kit Planes doesn't come close to telling
> me as much about building an RV as Sam Buchanan's or Dan Checkoway's web
> sites do, which of course I would never have known about had it not been for
> Matt's RV list. But I think the most impressive service that Matt brings to
> us is Bob Nuckolls on the Aeroelectric list. I am constantly amazed at the
> solid knowledge and patient good will that Bob brings to us about wiring
> little airplanes, and he does it for free. I have learned much more from Bob
> than the aeroelectric list name would suggest. ...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Horizontal vs Vertical Induction Engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Note- Subject line changed to correct spelling of "Horizantal" to horizontal
for the sake of future seekers of archive info.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Horizantal vs Vertical Induction Engines
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
Where do you buy engine bolts?
These are like AN bolts but with
course threads.
I need 1/4" bolts to attach the crank
sensor of my lightspeed ign. to front
of the lycoming O360
George Inman
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Engine bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
George,
You can get these from Aircraft Spruce. The coarse thread bolts are
listed in the paper catalog with the engine parts (carb bolts I think).
They aren't shown with the rest of the standard fine thread AN hardware in
the catalog.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
>
> Where do you buy engine bolts?
> These are like AN bolts but with
> course threads.
> I need 1/4" bolts to attach the crank
> sensor of my lightspeed ign. to front
> of the lycoming O360
>
>George Inman
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Printer labels with white ink |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Check out the Brother line of labelmakers .... the chain office supply
houses have lots to choose from.
Linn
do not archive
James H Nelson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>
>I have a medium grey panel and need white letters on clear labels to note
>functions. Who makes a white ink cartridge for what printer so I can
>make some labels?
>
>
>Jim Nelson
>RV9-A (wiring done, on to the canopy)
>
--
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Engine bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Not sure which places you're doing the bolting, but the coarse threaded
bolts are standard 1/4-20 bolts, which you can purchase at any hardware
store.
Linn
do not archive
George Inman wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
>
> Where do you buy engine bolts?
> These are like AN bolts but with
> course threads.
> I need 1/4" bolts to attach the crank
> sensor of my lightspeed ign. to front
> of the lycoming O360
>
>George Inman
>
>
>
>
--
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Printer labels with white ink |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
You can do it with Ptouch (White of Clear). I've played with it but havent
done it yet.
Good Luck,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 Bldr - SE Iowa
On 11/24/05, James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>
> I have a medium grey panel and need white letters on clear labels to note
> functions. Who makes a white ink cartridge for what printer so I can
> make some labels?
>
>
> Jim Nelson
> RV9-A (wiring done, on to the canopy)
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Engine bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi George,
Ask for grade 8 Cadmium plated bolts. These would be desirable for general
use such as you suggest. Grade 5 will work (they are nickel plated)
The markings on the heads identify the hardness. Maybe some one else can
direct us to a bolt identification chart. if there is an industrial supply
outlet in or near your area they will have the information needed. Tell them
its for an RV and they won't choke on the "It's for an airplane" thing.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine bolts
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Not sure which places you're doing the bolting, but the coarse threaded
> bolts are standard 1/4-20 bolts, which you can purchase at any hardware
> store.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> George Inman wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
>>
>> Where do you buy engine bolts?
>> These are like AN bolts but with
>> course threads.
>> I need 1/4" bolts to attach the crank
>> sensor of my lightspeed ign. to front
>> of the lycoming O360
>>
>>George Inman
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Hall" <dhall@donka.net>
Most of the responses seem to focus on drilling or deburring as the culprit,
but for me it is only after dimpling that I've run into 'loose cleco'
syndrome, luckily only on a small percentage of holes so I just move the
cleco to the hole above or below.
Maybe overly aggressive deburring causes the problem, but doesn't manifest
into a fit issue until it's mashed in the dimple die? Sounds like an easy
experiment.
Now the next question. How are the shop heads on those rivets in the loose
holes?
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Dimpled skin and clecos |
--> RV-List message posted by: gerns25@netscape.net
Don,
The holes are just barely too large, not enough to make a difference in the shop
heads of the rivets. The problem is that it becomes a PITA to hold the parts
together while riveting. I have determined that the problem was deburring,
at the time I didn't know any better but have learned my lesson. I used the speed
deburring tool on the ribs but only one turn on each hole with very light
pressure (I guess even this is too much on the thin aluminum). I have since
done some testing on scrap and have come up with good results. I have also done
testing with a #41 drill bit and the results are very good and I think I will
use this bit in all future match drilling #40 holes. The only problem I have
with the #41 is when the dimple is created using the pop rivet dimple die used
for tight areas. This tool doesn't make the best dimples IMO and the rivet
tends to be a bit too tight and doesn't set right. In this situation, the hole
is drilled with the #40 bit.
Thanks everybody for the info and advice. I really appreciate it as a newbie.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Darin Hawkes
RV7 Empennage
N619PB Res.
-----Original Message-----
From: Don Hall <dhall@donka.net>
Subject: RE: [SPAM] Re: RV-List: Dimpled skin and clecos
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Hall" <dhall@donka.net>
Most of the responses seem to focus on drilling or deburring as the culprit,
but for me it is only after dimpling that I've run into 'loose cleco'
syndrome, luckily only on a small percentage of holes so I just move the
cleco to the hole above or below.
Maybe overly aggressive deburring causes the problem, but doesn't manifest
into a fit issue until it's mashed in the dimple die? Sounds like an easy
experiment.
Now the next question. How are the shop heads on those rivets in the loose
holes?
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