Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:05 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (dralle@matronics.com)
2. 02:48 AM - Engine choice (Trevor Mills)
3. 05:50 AM - Noise monitoring, was Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie (Glen Matejcek)
4. 06:22 AM - Re: Noise monitoring (RV6 Flyer)
5. 06:55 AM - Re: Engine choice (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
6. 09:41 AM - HUD (EMAproducts@aol.com)
7. 10:00 AM - Re: Engine choice (Rob Prior (rv7))
8. 11:25 AM - Fuel Sending Units (Paul Rice)
9. 01:04 PM - Re: Fuel Sending Units (Ron Lee)
10. 01:05 PM - i39 February Flyin Date (Dana Overall)
11. 03:07 PM - Re: Engine choice (rv6@grandecom.net)
12. 03:08 PM - Re: Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie (Tim Bryan)
13. 03:09 PM - Re: Engine choice (rv6@grandecom.net)
14. 03:43 PM - Re: Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie (Terry Watson)
15. 04:06 PM - Re: Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie (Alan & Linda Daniels)
16. 04:22 PM - Primer, what's the best ? (Dan)
17. 04:39 PM - Re: Primer, what's the best ? (DANBERGERONHAM@aol.com)
18. 04:49 PM - Re: Primer, what's the best ? (Darrell Reiley)
19. 04:59 PM - Happy New Year's (Wheeler North)
20. 05:27 PM - Re: Engine choice (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
21. 06:00 PM - Alternate source for MK-319BS rivets? (gerns25@netscape.net)
22. 06:28 PM - Re: Primer, what's the best ? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
23. 06:42 PM - Re: Alternate source for MK-319BS rivets? (Alan & Linda Daniels)
24. 07:15 PM - Re: Primer, what's the best ? (Randy Lervold)
25. 08:19 PM - Re: Alternate Supplier for MK-319BS Rivets (Dick DeCramer)
26. 10:37 PM - RV Wiki (Tedd McHenry)
27. 11:18 PM - Re: RV Wiki (Jerry Springer)
28. 11:56 PM - Re: RV Wiki (Dan)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: dralle@matronics.com
Dear Lister,
Please read over the RV-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RV-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RVSouthEast-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RVSouthEast-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RVSouthEast-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RVSouthEast-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RVSouthEast-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trevor Mills" <millstrj@ozemail.com.au>
Rotax 912 engines run and cruise at 5200 + in cruse and after a 1500 hrs on one
of mine it still had crosshatch marks on the bore.
The 1930 lyco's don't do that do they ?
A well balanced 6 cylinder should be better.
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Noise monitoring, was Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
HI Gang-
Re : "...the day will come when FAA inspectors will be sitting by the
runway with
noise-measuring equipment writing violations for those that miss some
arbitrary standard. The longer we can put off that day the better."
FWIW, there are currently noise sensitive areas with permanently installed
monitoring equipment. The powers that be, the local airport authority as I
understand it, will tag aircraft operating in excess of the prescribed
noise limitations. These includes limits that vary per curfew. I don't
know for sure how they can enforce this with non-based aircraft, (I've not
been victimized personally) but I believe that you get a bill in the mail
and perhaps a prohibition on returning.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Noise monitoring |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Some have noise monitoing going on right now 24 hours a day. All radio
transmissions are recordered. They use N numbers to locate aircraft owner.
http://www.torrance.com/torranceairport/noise.htm
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,829 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Noise monitoring, was Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble &
Subie
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
HI Gang-
Re : "...the day will come when FAA inspectors will be sitting by the
runway with
noise-measuring equipment writing violations for those that miss some
arbitrary standard. The longer we can put off that day the better."
FWIW, there are currently noise sensitive areas with permanently installed
monitoring equipment. The powers that be, the local airport authority as I
understand it, will tag aircraft operating in excess of the prescribed
noise limitations. These includes limits that vary per curfew. I don't
know for sure how they can enforce this with non-based aircraft, (I've not
been victimized personally) but I believe that you get a bill in the mail
and perhaps a prohibition on returning.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Trevor Mills wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Trevor Mills" <millstrj@ozemail.com.au>
>
>Rotax 912 engines run and cruise at 5200 + in cruse and after a 1500 hrs on one
of mine it still had crosshatch marks on the bore.
>
>The 1930 lyco's don't do that do they ?
>
>A well balanced 6 cylinder should be better.
>
>Yes they will have cross harching down where the rings dont slide, but keep in
mind, a Lycoming probably won't be tore apart at 1500 hours to find out. There
are many Lyc's out there with 4 and 5 thousand hours total time which have
been through normal overhauls with parts replaced for normal wear as needed. There
are also many which go 2200 and 2300 hours and even more, before they get
tore apart the first time. And there are some that have had a top and some haven't
at those hours. And then there are some that don't make it that long. It
is kind of how they were operated and maintained...
>
Phil
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: EMAproducts@aol.com
Gentlemen,
EM Aviation has been producing a "Poor Mans Heads Up" display for our
RiteAngle IIIb system for several years now. I think someone on the list has
indicated he was also making one. I've personally flown one in an RV-6 and it
is
neat, much better than I thought it would be. Our Poor Mans HUD is flying in
quite a few aircraft from amphibians where the smooth water landings make it
very helpful to RV's, Lancairs and others. We use special LED's for this
type display.
For some photos of it our website has photos of one prototype in the SeaRey
photos.
Our very small display may also be mounted on the panel where it is in your
peripheral vision. size 2.11 tall X .6 wide x .5 deep
Any questions please ask off line
Thanks
Elbie
Fly the Safe Angle with the RiteAngle
EM Aviation, LLC
13411 NE Prairie Rd
Brush Prairie, WA 98696
www.riteangle.com
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
I think the point he was making is that a Rotax doesn't need to be torn
apart at 1500 hours either, but it's a good idea to get into any engine
near it's TBO or recommended maintenance interval and take a look around.
Your statistically insignificant claims about Lycomings don't really add to
the discussion, either. We've all heard about the proverbial Lycoming with
5000 hours on it with "minimal maintenance", and I agree, there are lots
that make TBO without any problems at all.
On the flip side, "and there are some that don't make it that long" doesn't
really cover it. I can recall at least a dozen off this list alone that
failed well before TBO. Further, I have first-hand knowledge of two
failing (ingested valves) before TBO. One I was flying behind at the time.
The other was a plane that I flew regularly. Both resulted in dead-stick
landings, but no damage other than to the engine. I'm sure many people
here know of similar failures from their local flying groups.
No engine is foolproof. But you can be reasonably sure that a
well-maintained engine, be it a Rotax, Automotive conversion, or Lycoming,
will be a reliable engine.
-Rob
On 8:54:28 2006-01-02 "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> Yes they will have cross harching down where the rings dont slide,
> but keep in mind, a Lycoming probably won't be tore apart at 1500
> hours to find out. There are many Lyc's out there with 4 and 5 thousand
> hours total time which have been through normal overhauls with parts
> replaced for normal wear as needed. There are also many which go 2200
> and 2300 hours and even more, before they get tore apart the first
> time. And there are some that have had a top and some haven't at those
> hours. And then there are some that don't make it that long. It is kind
> of how they were operated and maintained...
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fuel Sending Units |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
Hi All,
I've just started working on my fuel sending units and tested both outside
the tank, attached to a fuel gauge. They are the stock Stewart Warner and
Vans gauge. One has a drop out, to empty, at about 3 gallons on the gauge,
the other at 12 gallons, then comes back. Should I send them back or is
normal for all at some point or does it really matter.
Thanks,
Paul
RV8QB
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sending Units |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>I've just started working on my fuel sending units and tested both outside
>the tank, attached to a fuel gauge. They are the stock Stewart Warner and
>Vans gauge. One has a drop out, to empty, at about 3 gallons on the gauge,
>the other at 12 gallons, then comes back. Should I send them back or is
>normal for all at some point or does it really matter.
I assume that my sender units are Vans and the original fuel gauges were
empty at around 1/8 and 1/4 from empty. Not ideal. I replaced the fuel gauges
with newer Vans units and they are fine where it counts (below ten gallons
and probably under 15). Despite having a fuel totalizer I consider accurate
gauges at the lower end to be important.
Ron Lee
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | i39 February Flyin Date |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I'll go ahead and get the ball rolling on the i39 RV flyin. We've had good
weather luck so far with the last Saturday in February, so Saturday Feb.
25th. it is. I'll soon start on door prizes and again line up "Hooter" girls
for serving those world famous wings. Heck I guess we could leave out the
wings and just invite the girls:-). Mark those calenders to see old
friends, new RVs those "Hoote....", heck I guess I already mentioned them.
Remember, we have approached 100 RVs each of the past two years so if you
want to mix and mingle with a gaggle of RV's this has been a nice place to
kick off the flying season. More info to follow.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7, "Black Magic"
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6@grandecom.net
Quoting "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> I think the point he was making is that a Rotax doesn't need to be torn
> apart at 1500 hours either, but it's a good idea to get into any engine
> near it's TBO or recommended maintenance interval and take a look around.
>
> Your statistically insignificant claims about Lycomings don't really add to
> the discussion, either. We've all heard about the proverbial Lycoming with
> 5000 hours on it with "minimal maintenance", and I agree, there are lots
> that make TBO without any problems at all.
>
> On the flip side, "and there are some that don't make it that long" doesn't
> really cover it. I can recall at least a dozen off this list alone that
> failed well before TBO. Further, I have first-hand knowledge of two
> failing (ingested valves) before TBO. One I was flying behind at the time.
> The other was a plane that I flew regularly. Both resulted in dead-stick
> landings, but no damage other than to the engine. I'm sure many people
> here know of similar failures from their local flying groups.
>
> No engine is foolproof. But you can be reasonably sure that a
> well-maintained engine, be it a Rotax, Automotive conversion, or Lycoming,
> will be a reliable engine.
>
> -Rob
>
> On 8:54:28 2006-01-02 "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> > Yes they will have cross harching down where the rings dont slide,
> > but keep in mind, a Lycoming probably won't be tore apart at 1500
> > hours to find out. There are many Lyc's out there with 4 and 5 thousand
> > hours total time which have been through normal overhauls with parts
> > replaced for normal wear as needed. There are also many which go 2200
> > and 2300 hours and even more, before they get tore apart the first
> > time. And there are some that have had a top and some haven't at those
> > hours. And then there are some that don't make it that long. It is kind
> > of how they were operated and maintained...
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
since the prop makes most of the noise, how is the muffler going to make a
significant difference? When the prop is slow on landing the engine is
pretty quiet.
-------Original Message-------
From: Terry Watson
Subject: RE: RV-List: Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
For what it's worth, I have to be with Mickey on this one. One of the
reasons for being a good neighbor is to keep your neighbors from passing
laws to force you to do what being a good neighbor would have meant in the
first place. We all should know by now that the best way to screw up a good
idea is to pass a law that makes it mandatory. If we don't show enough
respect for non-flyer's sensitivities to the noise we make, we are insuring
the day will come when FAA inspectors will be sitting by the runway with
noise-measuring equipment writing violations for those that miss some
arbitrary standard. The longer we can put off that day the better.
Maybe some of you really smart guys can come up with a way to tone down a
Lycomming on an RV with the least loss of power and increase in weight.
Didn't I read here on the list some time back that the gentleman that builds
most of the exhaust pipes for us is working on it?
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Finishing?
--> RV-List message posted by: Flyguy6a@aol.com
Mickey,
<snip>
In other words, you can have my straight pipes soon as you remove them from
my cold, dead, hands... YMMV of course.
Behind asbestos barrier...
Jack L.
<snip>
I think if we take an active role in reducing the amount of noise
our aircraft make, we'll continue to enjoy our hobby. Many pilots
I've spoken with feel that what will happen is that they'll
eventually be forced to put on mufflers, and the longer we can
delay, the better. I believe that the general public does not
see it this way - they will be happy to see the FAA or TSA or
any other agency simply shut us down.
<snip>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6@grandecom.net
Quoting "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>:
Rob, You hit the nail on the head.
Maintainance,
T. J.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> I think the point he was making is that a Rotax doesn't need to be torn
> apart at 1500 hours either, but it's a good idea to get into any engine
> near it's TBO or recommended maintenance interval and take a look around.
>
> Your statistically insignificant claims about Lycomings don't really add to
> the discussion, either. We've all heard about the proverbial Lycoming with
> 5000 hours on it with "minimal maintenance", and I agree, there are lots
> that make TBO without any problems at all.
>
> On the flip side, "and there are some that don't make it that long" doesn't
> really cover it. I can recall at least a dozen off this list alone that
> failed well before TBO. Further, I have first-hand knowledge of two
> failing (ingested valves) before TBO. One I was flying behind at the time.
> The other was a plane that I flew regularly. Both resulted in dead-stick
> landings, but no damage other than to the engine. I'm sure many people
> here know of similar failures from their local flying groups.
>
> No engine is foolproof. But you can be reasonably sure that a
> well-maintained engine, be it a Rotax, Automotive conversion, or Lycoming,
> will be a reliable engine.
>
> -Rob
>
> On 8:54:28 2006-01-02 "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> > Yes they will have cross harching down where the rings dont slide,
> > but keep in mind, a Lycoming probably won't be tore apart at 1500
> > hours to find out. There are many Lyc's out there with 4 and 5 thousand
> > hours total time which have been through normal overhauls with parts
> > replaced for normal wear as needed. There are also many which go 2200
> > and 2300 hours and even more, before they get tore apart the first
> > time. And there are some that have had a top and some haven't at those
> > hours. And then there are some that don't make it that long. It is kind
> > of how they were operated and maintained...
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Some airfields and seaplane bases recommend or require slowing the prop down
to 2500 rpm as soon as you are safely clear of obstructions. I think this is
primarily to reduce prop noise, but it of course affects the engine noise
too.
I think the real point is that you reduce noise where you can. I also
understand that 3-bladed props are quieter than two bladed props. Let's hope
they don't become required for noise reduction.
Terry
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
since the prop makes most of the noise, how is the muffler going to make a
significant difference? When the prop is slow on landing the engine is
pretty quiet.
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mufflers (gasp!) was Lyco rumble & Subie |
--> RV-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
Its takeoff where most of the problem is, and with straight pipes it is
flyover noise. Prop noise has to due with prop tip speed. A cessna 185
or 206 with a long prop really turns gas into noise, but most RV's and
other experimental it is mostly good old exhaust noise. Even my Honda
Civic powered Kitfox is loud without its SuperTrapp, with it you hardly
hear it takeoff. Denial is not just a river in Egypt.
Tim Bryan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
>
>since the prop makes most of the noise, how is the muffler going to make a
>significant difference? When the prop is slow on landing the engine is
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Primer, what's the best ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
OK, I'm just beginning and I'm ready to prime parts,,
any recommendations, I have the ones Van's mention es in the instructions and
was just going to pick one of these ??
or ?
Dan
-8 Tail
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Primer, what's the best ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: DANBERGERONHAM@aol.com
Dan: Re choice of primers. Finally a question I can answer! I went w/ one
of Van's recommendations, the Sherwin Williams Industrial Wash Primer, and am
satisfied w/ it. I work the parts over well w/ Scotch Brite pads, wash them
down w/ MEK, and spray two coats of the primer. It dries quickly, looks ok,
and seems to hold up just fine. I bought a junker spray gun fm Home Depot and
taught myself how to use it. My first attempts at spraying empennage parts
weren't too pretty, but hey, only the bugs are ever going to see it. The wings
were much better, and the fuselage parts look great. Be sure to get yourself a
first class respirator (I have a 3-M), change the filters often, use
chemical resistant gloves, and have plenty of fresh air w/ flow thru ventilation
(I
use two box fans) for both the cleaning w/ MEK and the spraying w/ the primer;
MEK and primers will do nasty things to your body.
Good luck & good building,
Dan Bergeron
RV-7A (final riveting the aft fuselage and thinking about an engine)
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Primer, what's the best ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
check the archives... I'm punting this one...
Darrell
Dan <dan@rdan.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan
OK, I'm just beginning and I'm ready to prime parts,,
any recommendations, I have the ones Van's mention es in the instructions and was
just going to pick one of these ??
or ?
Dan
-8 Tail
---------------------------------
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Happy New Year's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Happy New Year's Everybody,
This website is pics of New Year's Day First Flight,
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/010106/index.htm
<http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/010106/index.htm>
Warning, last few shots are very graphic after a medium sized bird decided
to become one with the cosmos...
W
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME"Generator" CONTENT"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2658.2">
Happy New Year's
Happy New Year's Everybody,
This website is pics of New Year's Day First Flight,
http://www.miramarcollege.net/programs/avim/faculty/north/010106/index.htm
Warning, last few shots are very graphic after a medium sized bird decided to become
one with the cosmos...
W
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Engine choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
rv6@grandecom.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: rv6@grandecom.net
>
>Quoting "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
>>
>>I think the point he was making is that a Rotax doesn't need to be torn
>>apart at 1500 hours either, but it's a good idea to get into any engine
>>near it's TBO or recommended maintenance interval and take a look around.
>>
>>Your statistically insignificant claims about Lycomings don't really add to
>>the discussion, either. We've all heard about the proverbial Lycoming with
>>5000 hours on it with "minimal maintenance", and I agree, there are lots
>>that make TBO without any problems at all.
>>
>>On the flip side, "and there are some that don't make it that long" doesn't
>>really cover it. I can recall at least a dozen off this list alone that
>>failed well before TBO. Further, I have first-hand knowledge of two
>>failing (ingested valves) before TBO. One I was flying behind at the time.
>> The other was a plane that I flew regularly. Both resulted in dead-stick
>>landings, but no damage other than to the engine. I'm sure many people
>>here know of similar failures from their local flying groups.
>>
>>No engine is foolproof. But you can be reasonably sure that a
>>well-maintained engine, be it a Rotax, Automotive conversion, or Lycoming,
>>will be a reliable engine.
>>
>>-Rob
>>
Sorry Rob,
I didn't mean running an engine for 5000 hours with minimal
maintenance. I don't even know of these "proverbial" engines.
What I thought I said was "There are many Lyc's out there with 4 and 5
thousand hours total time which have been through normal overhauls with
parts replaced for normal wear as needed." The type as I refer to are
not proverbial, they are real Lycomings that have been through a couple
of OH's, not real uncommon and probably not too many original parts left
either..
I agree, a 5000 hour engine with "minimal maintenance" would be a
nightmare.
Phil
do not archive
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alternate source for MK-319BS rivets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: gerns25@netscape.net
Does anyone know of an alternate source for the 7/64" flush rivets that are spec'd
as optional in some of the "tight" areas of the 7 tail? I know I can get
them from Van's and most likely will but they typically take a week or more to
ship and then transit time. I am too impatient to wait it another source exists,
unfortunately, I have the "I want everything yesterday" disease. Anyone
know of a supplier?
Darin
RV7 (N619BP)
Empennage finished (except for a few of these rivets)
Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
http://mail.netscape.com
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Primer, what's the best ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Hi Dan-
You'll get a BUNCH of feedback on this one! Lot's of opinions on this
subject- here's mine, FWIW:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4863
Welcome to the nuthouse & have fun!
Mark Phillips - Columbia, TN
do not archive since the archives are hard-drive heavy on this subject
already 8-)
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Alternate source for MK-319BS rivets? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
See if you have a local Fastenal store. They have all sorts of good stuff.
gerns25@netscape.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: gerns25@netscape.net
>
>Does anyone know of an alternate source for the 7/64" flush rivets that are spec'd
as optional in some of the "tight" areas of the 7 tail? I know I can get
them from Van's and most likely will but they typically take a week or more to
ship and then transit time. I am too impatient to wait it another source exists,
unfortunately, I have the "I want everything yesterday" disease. Anyone
know of a supplier?
>
>Darin
>RV7 (N619BP)
>Empennage finished (except for a few of these rivets)
>Try the New Netscape Mail Today!
>Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List
>http://mail.netscape.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Primer, what's the best ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> OK, I'm just beginning and I'm ready to prime parts,,
> any recommendations, I have the ones Van's mention es in the instructions
> and was just going to pick one of these ??
> or ?
>
> Dan
> -8 Tail
Dan, you are asking one of two or three questions that are guarranteed to
spark debate and not likely to find much concensus. Nosewheel vs. tailwheel
is another. All that notwithstanding, here are the materials and technique
I've adopted and used for construction of two RV airframes now...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Primer
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Alternate Supplier for MK-319BS Rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
Wicks Aircraft Supply in Highland, IL. They ship fast and I have used them
for years. See www.wicksaircraft.com .
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
Flying 100+ Hrs.
Northfield, MN
diesel@rconnect.com
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
There is a new web site that I hope will become of interest to all RV builders
and pilots. It is the RV Wiki, a "wiki" or online encyclopedia about RV
building and flying.
http://www.rvwiki.org/
A wiki is a type of web site where anybody can easily add new information and
also edit the information that's already there. The idea is to create a
collaborative "encyclopedia" of knowledge and experience on RV building and
flying. The RV Wiki is brand-new, but already builders are posting articles on
various topics. I encourage you to visit and, if you like, write an article or
revise one that's already there.
If you have any questions on how to post articles or edit them, feel free to
write me off-list. See the postscript to this email for suggested topics to
write about.
The RV Wiki was inspired by conversations I have had with Eustace Bowhay over
the past five or six years regarding the information that's available to RV
builders on the internet. Eustace has been concerned for some time that there
is a lot of bad advice mixed in with the good advice, and it's sometimes hard
for builders to identify which is which. Eustace and I have talked on many
occasions about building a web site with authoritative information, information
that has been vetted by experienced builders or bona fide experts in each field
(structures, engines, avionics, etc.)
The RV Wiki is a little different from what Eustace and I originally
envisioned, but I think it offers the promise of being a very useful site for
RV builders and pilots.
Dwight Frye, an RV-7 builder in North Carolina, is the technical person behind
the wiki, with input from John Spicer of rivetbangers.com. My role is to
encourage RV builders and pilots to contribute their expertise and ideas in the
form of articles (or revisions to existing articles).
The RV Wiki is a non-commercial venture.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
---
Postscript: Suggested topics for aspiring contributors.
One of the key features is lists of frequently-asked questions. Here are some
examples of the questions that are in need of answers.
Building
========
Airframe
Baggage capacity: what are my options for increasing it?
Fuel tanks: should I slosh them or seal them?
Smoking rivets: what do I do about them?
Controls
Right stick left throttle: how can I do it?
I have a physical disability, how can I modify my RV's controls
so I can fly it?
Electrics and Lighting
Cockpit lighting: what are my choices?
Landing lights: what are my options?
Instruments and Avionics
AOA gauges: are they worthwhile?
Autopilots: which is best?
Gyros and acro: do they mix?
Painting
Primers: which should I use?
Trim: decals or paint?
Propellers
Acro: which propeller is best?
Pitch: can or should I change it?
Riveting
How can I set solid rivets near the trailing edges of the control
surfaces?
Regulations
Can I import a completed RV from the U.S. into Canada?
Tools
Rivet guns: 2X or 3X?
Flying
======
Engine
What's the best engine break-in procedure?
IFR
Is an RV a good IFR platform?
Limits of Speed and Loading
Is Vne determined by IAS or TAS?
Safety
How safe is an RV?
Spins
Is is safe to spin an RV-6?
Test Flying
What's the best way to adjust aileron trim?
Training
Can I learn to fly in my RV? Should I?
Transitioning to an RV:Tailwheel vs Nosewheel, 7 vs 9
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Tedd McHenry wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
>
>There is a new web site that I hope will become of interest to all RV builders
>and pilots. It is the RV Wiki, a "wiki" or online encyclopedia about RV
>building and flying.
>
> http://www.rvwiki.org/
>
>
>
Looks like a lot of hard work went into that web site, I wish you success.
Jerry
do not archive.
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
RV Wikw, looks great, as a beginner I'm looking at as many sites as possible, So,
thanks,, good work and I'm looking forward to checking it often along with
the rest of the great sites and info out here,
Dan
-8 tail
Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry
There is a new web site that I hope will become of interest to all RV builders
and pilots. It is the RV Wiki, a "wiki" or online encyclopedia about RV
building and flying.
http://www.rvwiki.org/
A wiki is a type of web site where anybody can easily add new information and
also edit the information that's already there. The idea is to create a
collaborative "encyclopedia" of knowledge and experience on RV building and
flying. The RV Wiki is brand-new, but already builders are posting articles on
various topics. I encourage you to visit and, if you like, write an article or
revise one that's already there.
If you have any questions on how to post articles or edit them, feel free to
write me off-list. See the postscript to this email for suggested topics to
write about.
The RV Wiki was inspired by conversations I have had with Eustace Bowhay over
the past five or six years regarding the information that's available to RV
builders on the internet. Eustace has been concerned for some time that there
is a lot of bad advice mixed in with the good advice, and it's sometimes hard
for builders to identify which is which. Eustace and I have talked on many
occasions about building a web site with authoritative information, information
that has been vetted by experienced builders or bona fide experts in each field
(structures, engines, avionics, etc.)
The RV Wiki is a little different from what Eustace and I originally
envisioned, but I think it offers the promise of being a very useful site for
RV builders and pilots.
Dwight Frye, an RV-7 builder in North Carolina, is the technical person behind
the wiki, with input from John Spicer of rivetbangers.com. My role is to
encourage RV builders and pilots to contribute their expertise and ideas in the
form of articles (or revisions to existing articles).
The RV Wiki is a non-commercial venture.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
---
Postscript: Suggested topics for aspiring contributors.
One of the key features is lists of frequently-asked questions. Here are some
examples of the questions that are in need of answers.
Building
========
Airframe
Baggage capacity: what are my options for increasing it?
Fuel tanks: should I slosh them or seal them?
Smoking rivets: what do I do about them?
Controls
Right stick left throttle: how can I do it?
I have a physical disability, how can I modify my RV's controls
so I can fly it?
Electrics and Lighting
Cockpit lighting: what are my choices?
Landing lights: what are my options?
Instruments and Avionics
AOA gauges: are they worthwhile?
Autopilots: which is best?
Gyros and acro: do they mix?
Painting
Primers: which should I use?
Trim: decals or paint?
Propellers
Acro: which propeller is best?
Pitch: can or should I change it?
Riveting
How can I set solid rivets near the trailing edges of the control
surfaces?
Regulations
Can I import a completed RV from the U.S. into Canada?
Tools
Rivet guns: 2X or 3X?
Flying
======
Engine
What's the best engine break-in procedure?
IFR
Is an RV a good IFR platform?
Limits of Speed and Loading
Is Vne determined by IAS or TAS?
Safety
How safe is an RV?
Spins
Is is safe to spin an RV-6?
Test Flying
What's the best way to adjust aileron trim?
Training
Can I learn to fly in my RV? Should I?
Transitioning to an RV:Tailwheel vs Nosewheel, 7 vs 9
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|