Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:16 AM - Re: RV-8 wheel landings (Kevin Horton)
2. 03:21 AM - Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? (Smitty)
3. 04:26 AM - Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? (chaztuna@adelphia.net)
4. 04:37 AM - Re: Craftsman Compressor Help (chaztuna@adelphia.net)
5. 04:56 AM - Re: Crossing the Continental Divide (Mark & Lisa)
6. 04:56 AM - Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? (alan@reichertech.com)
7. 05:56 AM - Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-8 wheel landings (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
8. 06:03 AM - Re: Craftsman Compressor Help (n223rv@wolflakeairport.net)
9. 06:45 AM - Source for aircraft hardware in the UK? (Dean Pichon)
10. 06:48 AM - Re: O360 A2G (Dana Overall)
11. 06:51 AM - Re: Craftsman Compressor Help (n223rv@wolflakeairport.net)
12. 06:54 AM - Constant Speed (Dana Overall)
13. 06:55 AM - Re: Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-8 wheel landings (Ron Lee)
14. 06:58 AM - Re: Constant Speed (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
15. 06:59 AM - Re: Craftsman Compressor Help (Ralph E. Capen)
16. 07:06 AM - Re: Source for aircraft hardware in the UK? (Peter Mather)
17. 07:13 AM - Re: Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-8 wheel landings (wskimike@mchsi.com)
18. 07:14 AM - Re: Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-8 wheel landings (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
19. 07:55 AM - RV9/9A Wing and Empennage kit for sale (Will Couvillon)
20. 07:55 AM - Saga of medical Certificate (bertrv6@highstream.net)
21. 08:21 AM - Re: Saga of medical Certificate (Don Mack)
22. 08:22 AM - Re: RV9/9A Wing and Empennage kit for sale (Bob Collins)
23. 08:26 AM - Re: Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-8 wheel landings (Ron Lee)
24. 08:41 AM - Re: Craftsman Compressor Help (Tim Bryan)
25. 10:16 AM - Airspeed Indicator Error (DAVID REEL)
26. 10:29 AM - Re: Craftsman Compressor Help (n223rv@wolflakeairport.net)
27. 10:45 AM - Re: Airspeed Indicator Error (Dan Checkoway)
28. 10:49 AM - Re: Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-8 wheel landings (Alan Kritzman)
29. 11:34 AM - Re: Saga of medical Certificate (Chuck Jensen)
30. 11:40 AM - Re: Crossing the Continental Divide (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
31. 12:30 PM - Re: Airspeed Indicator Error (Kevin Horton)
32. 12:30 PM - Re: Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-8 wheel landings (Jeff Dowling)
33. 01:55 PM - A2G (Wheeler North)
34. 02:00 PM - Where's Doug? (George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR)
35. 02:48 PM - Re: Where's Doug? (Kevin Horton)
36. 03:02 PM - Re: Airspeed Indicator Error (Bob Perkinson)
37. 03:18 PM - Re: Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-8 wheel landings (Kyle Boatright)
38. 04:32 PM - Re: A2G (Wentz, Don)
39. 05:11 PM - Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? (Brett Morawski)
40. 06:19 PM - Re: Craftsman Compressor Help (Ken Beene)
41. 07:21 PM - Air2air fotoz (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
42. 07:33 PM - Re: RV-8 wheel landings (dick martin)
43. 07:48 PM - Re: Air2air fotoz (Bryan Jones)
44. 07:52 PM - Re: Constant Speed (dick martin)
45. 08:10 PM - Re: Re: Constant Speed ()
46. 09:51 PM - Re: Air2air fotoz (Rob Prior (rv7))
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>
> Listers,
> A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> his plane. What say ye.
> Jim Bean
> First flight soon.
I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
The archives are full of reports from people who say that the RV-8 is
difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
tail a bit more than a FP prop.
For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
forward and aft CGs.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Smitty" <smitty@smittysrv.com>
Hi Dan,
Yeah, I was puzzled by that bundle also. I didn't touch it because I thought
"maybe it is used somewhere in the building process". I'm almost finished
with my tailkit and haven't used any of it yet.
Smitty's RV-9A
http://SmittysRV.com
http://FunPlacesToFly.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan" <dan@rdan.com>
Subject: RV-List: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
>
> In my Empennage kit I got a "Trim Bundle" about 9 pieces 4 x 15
> Are these my practice pieces ,?,, or are these used in the kit,
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: chaztuna@adelphia.net
Dan
The trim bundles are usually the left over "drop" from the aluminum sheets used
to make the prefabricated parts. This material is included for you to use for
fabricated add on parts, shims, scab flanges, rivet practice,etc.
When you get to the fuselage kit there are scores of parts which must be fabricated
from stock. I can't remember if there were any "fabricated from stock" parts
to be made from the wing kit.
Charlie Kuss
---- Dan <dan@rdan.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
>
> In my Empennage kit I got a "Trim Bundle" about 9 pieces 4 x 15
> Are these my practice pieces ,?,, or are these used in the kit,
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Craftsman Compressor Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: chaztuna@adelphia.net
Mike,
There should be a removable cover (usually a flat plate) which gives access to
the wiring connections in the motor. Often, the wiring schematic is on the inside
of this cover. That schematic will show the 110 to 220 conversion (if it's
there)
Charlie Kuss
---- Mike Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
>
> I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
> The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
> manual has no wiring information.
>
> I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
> searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
> wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
> anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
>
> Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
> 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
> schematic for changing to 220V?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> -Mike Kraus
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Crossing the Continental Divide |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark & Lisa" <marknlisa@hometel.com>
Check out this article for suggestions regarding the return trip.
http://www.eaa.org/communications/eaanews/051201_lowery.html
Mark & Lisa Sletten
Legacy FG N828LM
http://www.legacyfgbuilder.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: alan@reichertech.com
The trim bundle will be used later to make shims and the attachment
brackets for fiberglass pieces, etc.
- Alan
> Time: 10:12:17 PM PST US
> From: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
> Subject: RV-List: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
>
> In my Empennage kit I got a "Trim Bundle" about 9 pieces 4 x 15
> Are these my practice pieces ,?,, or are these used in the kit,
> Thanks,
> Dan
--
Alan Reichert
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Working on Rudder and Elevators
Wing kit has arrived!
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50 pounds
to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefully lead
to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an
off field event.
Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual solutions
than future untried theories.
thx,
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
> On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean
> >
> > Listers,
> > A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> > elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> > his plane. What say ye.
> > Jim Bean
> > First flight soon.
>
> I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
> flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
> flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
>
> The archives are full of reports from people who say that the RV-8 is
> difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
> run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
> may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
> tail a bit more than a FP prop.
>
> For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> forward and aft CGs.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and50 pounds to
the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefullylead tothe
ballastcrashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an off
field event.
Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual solutions
than future untried theories.
thx,
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Kevin Horton khorton01@rogers.com
-- RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <KHORTON01@ROGERS.COM>
On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <JIM-BEAN@ATT.NET>
Listers,
A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
his plane. What say ye.
Jim Bean
First flight soon.
I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
The archives are full of reports from pe
ople who say that the RV-8 is
difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
tail a bit more than a FP prop.
For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
forward and aft CGs.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Search Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Craftsman Compressor Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: n223rv@wolflakeairport.net
I looked on the motor, under the motor, under the capacitor covers on the
motor, inside th motor, inside the cover plate, inside the plastic that
covers the motor... I looked everywhere but inside of the compressor
tank. Unfortunately there are no schematics. That is why I was hoping
someone had one with a schematic on it somewhere as I agree it should be
there somewhere. I did 3 hours of internet searches (as I was watching
the bowl games) and was surprised I could not find anything posted
anywhere on either the GE motor or on the compressor. I called Craftsman
and all they would say was for me to take it into a service center.....
GE has a web site wit compressor motor information, but no wiring diagrams.
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
-Mike
> --> RV-List message posted by: chaztuna@adelphia.net
>
> Mike,
> There should be a removable cover (usually a flat plate) which gives
> access to the wiring connections in the motor. Often, the wiring
> schematic is on the inside of this cover. That schematic will show the
> 110 to 220 conversion (if it's there)
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> ---- Mike Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>
>>
>> I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
>> The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
>> manual has no wiring information.
>>
>> I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
>> searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
>> wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
>> anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
>>
>> Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
>> 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
>> schematic for changing to 220V?
>>
>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> -Mike Kraus
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Source for aircraft hardware in the UK? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Hi Listers,
Can anyone point me to a source in the UK for AN/MS/NAS hardware?
Thanks for the help?
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>ok Dana, I will have to ask. What is an A2G? What was it in? And are you
>saying it will not fit in a A due to some sort of bottom obtrusion that
>interferes with the nose wheel?
>
>Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker 78 hours
That is what I was wondering and if anyone had any issues with a A2G. I am
now looking at Superior, Mattatuck (sp), and ECI Titan.
Anyone have anything to say online or offline about the ECI Titan at
Attawayair? Seems like a very, very nice engine.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Craftsman Compressor Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: n223rv@wolflakeairport.net
GE Motor information is:
Part #: MD-9041-1
Serial #: SJJ200022
Model: 5KCR49SN2038CX
Craftsman Compressor Model Number: 919-15292. I have attached a
schematic, but I don't know if it will come through.
Thanks
-Mike
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Burns" <burnsm@cox.net>
>
> Mike,
> A lot of times the wiring schematic is on the back of the wiring box
> cover.
>
> If not, get me the GE P/N and I can probably help you out.
>
> Mark Burns
> RV-7A Fuselage
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Kraus
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Craftsman Compressor Help
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
>
> I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
> The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
> manual has no wiring information.
>
> I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
> searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
> wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
> anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
>
> Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
> 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
> schematic for changing to 220V?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> -Mike Kraus
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A? As you
can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360 hollow
crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S or
going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
>
>For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50
>pounds to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't
>hopefully lead to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting
>me should I have an off field event.
>
> > For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> > the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> > you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> > forward and aft CGs.
> >
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
From my non-aeronautical engineer view that would not be ideal. As Kevin
noted, near the middle CG range is likely to be safer.
Ron Lee
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
Dana, I am running that very engine by Aerosport with Hartzell "BLENDED
AIRFOIL" prop and have no complaints.
Doug Preston
RV-7
N731RV
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Craftsman Compressor Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
I have a similar compressor - I'll look at it this weekend - I also think I still
have the documentation that came with it....If I do, I'll let you know.
From memory though the wiring has three wires - for 220 there are two lines(one
white, one black) and one ground(green), for 110 the wires go line, load (don't
remember which is line or load), and ground(green).
The house wiring determines the phase of the individual line feeds - your house
should have two line feeds to run AC/dryer etc and the 220v feed would already
be wired according to code by your electrician.
I'm guessing that you have a 110 outlet available and don't want to run 220V?!
Keep in mind that 110V will not produce the HP rating that is advertised for
the compressor (unless they're advertising under 5hp). It'll still work - just
run a little longer per duty cycle.
Been there - done that - installed a 220V feed for my compressor.
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: n223rv@wolflakeairport.net
>Sent: Jan 5, 2006 9:02 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Craftsman Compressor Help
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: n223rv@wolflakeairport.net
>
>
>I looked on the motor, under the motor, under the capacitor covers on the
>motor, inside th motor, inside the cover plate, inside the plastic that
>covers the motor... I looked everywhere but inside of the compressor
>tank. Unfortunately there are no schematics. That is why I was hoping
>someone had one with a schematic on it somewhere as I agree it should be
>there somewhere. I did 3 hours of internet searches (as I was watching
>the bowl games) and was surprised I could not find anything posted
>anywhere on either the GE motor or on the compressor. I called Craftsman
>and all they would say was for me to take it into a service center.....
>
>GE has a web site wit compressor motor information, but no wiring diagrams.
>
>Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
>-Mike
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: chaztuna@adelphia.net
>>
>> Mike,
>> There should be a removable cover (usually a flat plate) which gives
>> access to the wiring connections in the motor. Often, the wiring
>> schematic is on the inside of this cover. That schematic will show the
>> 110 to 220 conversion (if it's there)
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>>
>> ---- Mike Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
>>> The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
>>> manual has no wiring information.
>>>
>>> I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
>>> searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
>>> wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
>>> anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
>>>
>>> Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
>>> 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
>>> schematic for changing to 220V?
>>>
>>> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> -Mike Kraus
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Source for aircraft hardware in the UK? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Peter Mather" <peter@mather.com>
Dean
http://www.lightaero.co.uk/
are as good as any.
Best regards
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: Source for aircraft hardware in the UK?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
>
> Hi Listers,
>
> Can anyone point me to a source in the UK for AN/MS/NAS hardware?
>
> Thanks for the help?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: wskimike@mchsi.com
My suggestion is to bolt a little weight in the tail section to get the CG
where you need it. You can add lead weights in the tail and remove them as
necessary. You won't have to add so much gross weight. That is the way the
real world does it.
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
>
> For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50 pounds
> to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefully lead
to
> the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an off
> field event.
>
> Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
> that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual
> solutions than future untried theories.
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
> >
> > On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean
> > >
> > > Listers,
> > > A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> > > elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> > > his plane. What say ye.
> > > Jim Bean
> > > First flight soon.
> >
> > I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
> > flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
> > flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
> >
> > The archives are full of reports from people who say that the RV-8 is
> > difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
> > run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
> > may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
> > tail a bit more than a FP prop.
> >
> > For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> > the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> > you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> > forward and aft CGs.
> >
> > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> > Ottawa, Canada
> > http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
>
> For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and50 pounds
to
> the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefullylead tothe
> ballastcrashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an off field
> event.
>
> Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
> that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual
> solutions than future untried theories.
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Kevin Horton khorton01@rogers.com
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <KHORTON01@ROGERS.COM>
>
> On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <JIM-BEAN@ATT.NET>
>
> Listers,
> A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> his plane. What say ye.
> Jim Bean
> First flight soon.
>
> I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
> flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
> flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
>
> The archives are full of reports from pe
> ople who say that the RV-8 is
> difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
> run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
> may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
> tail a bit more than a FP prop.
>
> For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> forward and aft CGs.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
> Search Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
This is why I wanted folks who've been there, done that to respond ;-)
75 pounds spread out that way in the back gives MY configuration a middle CG AND
that's wasn't really the main point of the quesiton anyway.
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee
>
>
> >So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
> >
> >For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50
> >pounds to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't
> >hopefully lead to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting
> >me should I have an off field event.
> >
> > > For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> > > the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> > > you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> > > forward and aft CGs.
> > >
> > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>
>
> From my non-aeronautical engineer view that would not be ideal. As Kevin
> noted, near the middle CG range is likely to be safer.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
This is why I wantedfolks who've been there, done that to respond ;-)
75 pounds spread out that way in the back gives MY configuration a middle CG AND
that's wasn't really the main point of the quesiton anyway.
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Ron Lee ronlee@pcisys.net
-- RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <RONLEE@PCISYS.NET>
So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50
pounds to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't
hopefully lead to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting
me should I have an off field event.
For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
forward and aft CGs. <B
R>
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
From my non-aeronautical engineer view that would not be ideal. As Kevin
noted, near the middle CG range is likely to be safer.
Ron Lee
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 19
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| Subject: | RV9/9A Wing and Empennage kit for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Will Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
A cold hard reality has set in...I can't afford to finish my RV AND plan to
send my little girl to college. Those of you that have followed along in my
construction will know how much this hurts...thank you!
RV9/9A Wing and Empennage kit for sale. Empennage complete except for
fiberglass and completely inspected by EAA tech counselor. Wings 90% with
only the final assembly of the ailerons and completion of the flaps. After
that, push pull tubes and aileron bellcranks, then tips...done in maybe 40
hours. Bottom skins are off for easy access, but are drilled, dimpled,
primed and ready for riveting. All parts and skins primed with Dupont
VariPrime!
Included accessories are electric trim (tested working great), dual duckwork
landing lights installed, SafeAir1 dynon pitot mounting tube with complete
AOA and pitot/static tubing kit (bottom skin already cut and mount primed),
sealed and tested tanks with float senders, and Van's electrical conduit
with ribs precut. Of course the complete build manual and all drawings (up
to date) are included.
Incredible documentation is included with hundreds of pictures...you can see
the entire history of the contruction at my site: www.wills-rv9a.com
Current cost of the parts and accessories alone is over $7800....$7500 buys
mine and gives you a big jump in construction. This is available for local
pickup and I will include the wing crates. If this must be shipped, buyer is
to arrange for pickup and shipping. Please post reply or email me at
wcouv@hotmail.com
__________________
Message 20
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| Subject: | Saga of medical Certificate |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
hing
Hi:
Well is a new year' thanks to all of you that during this ordeal have given
me a lot of good information and moral support.
The reason for posting more details of my experience, is to help those who
might someday find themselves in my situtation..
My medical was to be renewed at end of July 04..So I thought I would be smart
I take my medical earlier, which I did, first week of July had the Medical.
Same day, I personally, mailed the medical records I had, which were two pages
both Lab work, one for the liver fuction, I take lipitor (the only thing I take)
the other page for the heart electrolites or whatever...
Also, I fax them, with a note, the medical was completed etc..
One month past, then I called FAA., the answer, could not find any records, to
wait.
I will not bore you with all the details that happened during the next two
months, you would not believe me any how, the answers I got from FAA, The
fact is that at the end of September, they said, never received papers...
nor even the fax....
Here is when I learn,,I decided to call AOPA for the first time...
they aske me then to send them copies of everything I had sent to FAA, including
cover letters etc...which I did ( I do not know if one should send
all medical records to them, but they asked for so I did)
2- They asked that I mail everything again to FAA, but this time register
mail, return receipt, and not to the P.o. Box but to the Macarthur,BLVd.
address.
IN four days I got the signed recipt, and 2 weeks later got first reply
from FAA..
So there you are, Send everything certified, and call Aopa right at the
beginning...
During the next months, they keep asking form more things, including
things they had, from last renewal, maybe they do not keep records?
I had to get records, all, from 3 years ago.
Finally on November of 04, they asked that I take an Echo Cardiogram,
which I completed in December, it was mailed Registered, copy to Aopa.
Why the did not asked for it, back in August?
So here I am, seven months, no being able to fly, the worst part is that
I was in the middle of my test flights, needed 40 hours...
I hope that one will go thru this, you would not believe the way FAA works
the answers I got, are unreal... by the way how is that my mail was lost, but
the AMA, mail which is not sent register, never gets lost ????
Happy Flying to all....
Bertrv6a
Do Not archived
Message 21
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| Subject: | Saga of medical Certificate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack" <don@dmack.net>
Bert,
Good luck, keep after them.
FYI - If you still file taxes via the U.S. postal service, send that stuff
registered receipt too. IRS can loose paperwork too, first hand experience.
Don Mack
www.dmack.net
Do not archive
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | RV9/9A Wing and Empennage kit for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
I've been there, Will, but depending on how little your little girl is, that
RV project can work to your advantage. Depending on her age, it doesn't have
to be an either-or.
The RV is going to be worth more completed than sold unfinished. So if the
object is to have more money than you do today... the best way to do that is
finish the project. Selling it -- especially at cost -- doesn't give you
more assets, it gives you less. Unless your daughter starts college this
September, you can win by keeping your options open.
So take out a loan and finish it. And then sell it if you still need the
cash. That helps in two ways. First, when it comes to scholarship
eligibility, the school and others are going to nick you for having assets.
The loan is debt against the assets, giving you -- possibly -- an advantage
in getting financial aid. Second, of course, it gives you the cash to
finish the project at below market value, and then allows you to sell it and
use the gain to finance her education.
If you sell it now, especially at cost, you end up financially back where
you were when you started the project. If you continue, there's no way you
don't come out financially better off unless suddenly there's no market for
RVs.
Think about it.
Bob
Do not archive
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Will
> Couvillon
> Sent: Thursday, January 05, 2006 9:55 AM
> To: RV-List@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV9/9A Wing and Empennage kit for sale
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Will Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
>
> A cold hard reality has set in...I can't afford to finish my
> RV AND plan to
> send my little girl to college. Those of you that have
> followed along in my
> construction will know how much this hurts...thank you!
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Lucky, your original post talked about moving the CG "REAR" which
was interpreted as AFT. My reply was meant to urge caution which
was the intent of my post....safety.
Ron Lee
Do not archive
At 08:13 AM 1/5/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
>This is why I wanted folks who've been there, done that to respond ;-)
>
>75 pounds spread out that way in the back gives MY configuration a middle
>CG AND that's wasn't really the main point of the quesiton anyway.
>
>lucky
>
>do not archive
>
>-------------- Original message --------------
>From: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee
> >
> >
> > >So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
> > >
> > >For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50
> > >pounds to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't
> > >hopefully lead to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting
> > >me should I have an off field event.
> > >
> > > > For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> > > > the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> > > > you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> > > > forward and aft CGs.
> > > >
> > > > Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> >
> >
> > From my non-aeronautical engineer view that would not be ideal. As Kevin
> > noted, near the middle CG range is likely to be safer.
> >
> > Ron Lee
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>This is why I wantedfolks who've been there, done that to respond ;-)
>
>75 pounds spread out that way in the back gives MY configuration a middle
>CG AND that's wasn't really the main point of the quesiton anyway.
>
>lucky
>
>do not archive
>
>-------------- Original message --------------
>From: Ron Lee ronlee@pcisys.net
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <RONLEE@PCISYS.NET>
>
>
> So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
>
> For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50
> pounds to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't
> hopefully lead to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting
> me should I have an off field event.
>
> For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> forward and aft CGs. <B
> R>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>
>
> From my non-aeronautical engineer view that would not be ideal. As Kevin
> noted, near the middle CG range is likely to be safer.
>
> Ron Lee
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Craftsman Compressor Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
Have you considered going back to sears and looking at the book from another
compressor like yours?
Tim
Do Not Archive
-------Original Message-------
From: Mike Kraus
Subject: RV-List: Craftsman Compressor Help
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
manual has no wiring information.
I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
schematic for changing to 220V?
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike Kraus
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Airspeed Indicator Error |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I just did a balloon test to see if my pitot system would hold pressure. It did,
but I got two different airspeed indications & I'm wondering if the UMA unit
I bought from Vans can be adjusted. The UMA said I was using a 103 kt balloon
but the Dynon D10 said I was using a 109 kt balloon. Have any of you observed
differences like these? Which was the most reliable? Anyone know of a book
full of numbers and equations that would give me the air pressure that corresponds
to 110 kt? It seems to me that a test pilot oriented book of that sort
would be pretty useful during the coming months.
Dave Reel - RV8A FAA inspection Jan 25
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Craftsman Compressor Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: n223rv@wolflakeairport.net
Yes, all the ones in the Sears by us are only 110V. They don't seem to
use the dual 110/220V motors anymore. Probably because of cost. Mine is
older and can be wired either 110V or 220V, once you figure out the
secret..... The funny thing is on my internet search, I found a note from
a Sears technician asking the same question! He apparently could not
figure it out either. It is such a simple change I am surprised how hard
it is to find a schematic.....
-Mike
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
>
> Have you considered going back to sears and looking at the book from
> another
> compressor like yours?
> Tim
> Do Not Archive
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Mike Kraus
> Date: 01/04/06 21:07:12
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Craftsman Compressor Help
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
>
> I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
> The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
> manual has no wiring information.
>
> I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some internet
> searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to find a
> wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
> anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
>
> Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V to
> 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any wiring
> schematic for changing to 220V?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> -Mike Kraus
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Indicator Error |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Dave,
If it makes you feel any better, my Van's airspeed gauge reads 2-3 mph lower
than my EFIS-D10. I trust the -D10 since when it passed pitot/static,
altitude & airspeed consistently had less (or zero) error on the Dynon than
the "steam gauges."
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (757 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Airspeed Indicator Error
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> I just did a balloon test to see if my pitot system would hold pressure.
> It did, but I got two different airspeed indications & I'm wondering if
> the UMA unit I bought from Vans can be adjusted. The UMA said I was using
> a 103 kt balloon but the Dynon D10 said I was using a 109 kt balloon.
> Have any of you observed differences like these? Which was the most
> reliable? Anyone know of a book full of numbers and equations that would
> give me the air pressure that corresponds to 110 kt? It seems to me that
> a test pilot oriented book of that sort would be pretty useful during the
> coming months.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A FAA inspection Jan 25
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Alan Kritzman <rv8_flyer@yahoo.com>
Lucky,
I made some tabs out of .040 AL that have a 1/2" hole on one end and a #8 hole
on the other about 1" long with a 45 deg bend between the holes. I attached
these to the #8 screws that hold the baggage area in place. Then I can attach
tie down straps to them to hold everything in place. For the first few flights
I strapped 25 lbs in the back to get the CG to the mid point. Had no trouble
three pointing. But I have an O-320 so even solo with nothing in back my
CG is an inch back from the fwd limit. I have no problem with full stall three
point landings, but wheel landings are so easy in the -8 that is what I do if
there is a crowd watching.
Alan Kritzman
RV-8 N8EM
lucky <luckymacy@comcast.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50 pounds
to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefully lead
to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an
off field event.
Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual solutions
than future untried theories.
thx,
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Kevin Horton
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>
> On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean
> >
> > Listers,
> > A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> > elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> > his plane. What say ye.
> > Jim Bean
> > First flight soon.
>
> I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
> flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
> flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
>
> The archives are full of reports from people who say that the RV-8 is
> difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
> run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
> may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
> tail a bit more than a FP prop.
>
> For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> forward and aft CGs.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and50 pounds to
the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't hopefullylead tothe
ballastcrashing through from the back and hurting me should I have an off
field event.
Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean and
that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in actual solutions
than future untried theories.
thx,
lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Kevin Horton khorton01@rogers.com
-- RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
-- RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean
Listers,
A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
his plane. What say ye.
Jim Bean
First flight soon.
I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
The archives are full of reports from pe
ople who say that the RV-8 is
difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
tail a bit more than a FP prop.
For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
forward and aft CGs.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Search Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
---------------------------------
Message 29
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| Subject: | Saga of medical Certificate |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Your experience is SOP for the FAA. Every time they implement a new
program to reduce the backlog and get organized---it gets worse.
Chuck Jensen
Do Not Archive.
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
Well is a new year' thanks to all of you that during this ordeal have
given
me a lot of good information and moral support.
The reason for posting more details of my experience, is to help those
who
might someday find themselves in my situtation..
My medical was to be renewed at end of July 04..So I thought I would be
smart
I take my medical earlier, which I did, first week of July had the
Medical.
Same day, I personally, mailed the medical records I had, which were two
pages
both Lab work, one for the liver fuction, I take lipitor (the only thing
I take)
the other page for the heart electrolites or whatever...
Also, I fax them, with a note, the medical was completed etc..
One month past, then I called FAA., the answer, could not find any
records, to
wait.
I will not bore you with all the details that happened during the next
two
months, you would not believe me any how, the answers I got from FAA,
The
fact is that at the end of September, they said, never received
papers...
nor even the fax....
Here is when I learn,,I decided to call AOPA for the first time...
they aske me then to send them copies of everything I had sent to FAA,
including
cover letters etc...which I did ( I do not know if one should send
all medical records to them, but they asked for so I did)
2- They asked that I mail everything again to FAA, but this time
register
mail, return receipt, and not to the P.o. Box but to the Macarthur,BLVd.
address.
IN four days I got the signed recipt, and 2 weeks later got first reply
from FAA..
So there you are, Send everything certified, and call Aopa right at the
beginning...
During the next months, they keep asking form more things, including
things they had, from last renewal, maybe they do not keep records?
I had to get records, all, from 3 years ago.
Finally on November of 04, they asked that I take an Echo Cardiogram,
which I completed in December, it was mailed Registered, copy to Aopa.
Why the did not asked for it, back in August?
So here I am, seven months, no being able to fly, the worst part is that
I was in the middle of my test flights, needed 40 hours...
I hope that one will go thru this, you would not believe the way FAA
works
the answers I got, are unreal... by the way how is that my mail was
lost, but
the AMA, mail which is not sent register, never gets lost ????
Happy Flying to all....
Bertrv6a
Do Not archived
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Crossing the Continental Divide |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Bob,
Good routing ideas from all those SW folks, but why not consider coming up
to the Great Northwest, see Norcal, Mt. Shasta, World HQ of Van's at KUAO, up
the world-renowned Columbia Gorge, on to Spokane, WA, cross the divide into
MT thru Mullen Pass, on to KRAP (Rapid City, I love that call sign). We've
taken this route many times, cheap gas at St. Maries, ID. (S72) ,Free courtesy
car, charming little old west town. If you fly at 9500' going E, lots of room
to spare...
Oh BTW, if you go from Billings, MT over to KRAP, you can get a good aerial
view of the Custer Battlefield, and MT. Rushmore is only a few mins from KRAP
by RV, then you can swing around the corner and visit Larry Vetterman and
watch him make pipes. He's right there someplace. Whew! That should keep you
busy... Oh, and if you go in August there's Sturgis if you're into bikes...
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
Time: 07:21:55 AM PST US
From: FlashandCo@AOL.COM
Subject: RV-List: Crossing the Continental Divide
--> RV-List message posted by: FlashandCo@aol.com
This East Coast-er and wife are planning to visit friends in San Diego
sometime
in the near future. I tried searching this List for recommended i.e.
jaw-dropping
scenic routings through the Divide, but did not see much there. Maybe my
search words, I don't know.....Anybody want to offer their experiences?
Looking
for a southern route Texas to Dan Diego and maybe a return northern CA
through
Colorado. Thank you all.
Bob Gordon
RV6 @ 33N
70 hours
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Airspeed Indicator Error |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 5 Jan 2006, at 13:15, DAVID REEL wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> I just did a balloon test to see if my pitot system would hold
> pressure. It did, but I got two different airspeed indications &
> I'm wondering if the UMA unit I bought from Vans can be adjusted.
> The UMA said I was using a 103 kt balloon but the Dynon D10 said I
> was using a 109 kt balloon. Have any of you observed differences
> like these? Which was the most reliable? Anyone know of a book
> full of numbers and equations that would give me the air pressure
> that corresponds to 110 kt? It seems to me that a test pilot
> oriented book of that sort would be pretty useful during the coming
> months.
David,
If all you want is the formula, you can get it at:
http://www.eaa1000.av.org/technicl/instcal/instcal.htm
If you want an Excel spreadsheet I created that converts between ASI
reading and pressure in inches of water, you can get it at:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/filemgmt/visit.php?lid=3
I've got other useful flight test links at:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/phplinks/index.php?PID=1
Just for info, the results of my ASI calibrations (Dynon D-10A and
analog ASI) are at:
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/article.php?story=ASI_Calibration_2
2 - 3 kt ASI instrument errors are very normal. Five kt errors are
not unusual. Plus there is some friction in the instruments, which
gives some hysteresis. I.e. the ASI number might have increased a kt
or two if there was some vibration, like you would get from your engine.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I purchased 2 bags of 25 lb. lead shot at a gun store. They are nice to
have around when you're not giving them a ride.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Subject: Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-List: RV-8 wheel landings
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
>
> For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and 50
> pounds to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't
> hopefully lead to the ballast crashing through from the back and hurting
> me should I have an off field event.
>
> Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean
> and that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in
> actual solutions than future untried theories.
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
>>
>> On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
>>
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean
>> >
>> > Listers,
>> > A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
>> > elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
>> > his plane. What say ye.
>> > Jim Bean
>> > First flight soon.
>>
>> I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
>> flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
>> flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
>>
>> The archives are full of reports from people who say that the RV-8 is
>> difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
>> run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
>> may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
>> tail a bit more than a FP prop.
>>
>> For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
>> the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
>> you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
>> forward and aft CGs.
>>
>> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>> Ottawa, Canada
>> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> So what are some safe ideas on moving the CG rear for first flights?
>
> For example, if I wanted add 25 pounds to the rear baggage shelf and50
> pounds to the rear baggage floor, what are some safe ideas that won't
> hopefullylead tothe ballastcrashing through from the back and hurting me
> should I have an off field event.
>
> Yeah, it's a generic question but folks who've been there know what I mean
> and that's who I'm targeting the question to. I'm interested more in
> actual solutions than future untried theories.
>
> thx,
> lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: Kevin Horton khorton01@rogers.com
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <KHORTON01@ROGERS.COM>
>
> On 4 Jan 2006, at 22:43, Jim Bean wrote:
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <JIM-BEAN@ATT.NET>
>
> Listers,
> A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> his plane. What say ye.
> Jim Bean
> First flight soon.
>
> I don't believe the flaps are blanking the elevator, but putting more
> flaps down does increase the nose down pitching moment. So the more
> flap you extend, the more up elevator you need.
>
> The archives are full of reports from pe
> ople who say that the RV-8 is
> difficult to three-point if the CG is near the forward limit. You
> run out of elevator in the flare. I believe that having a CS prop
> may also make things worse, even at the same CG, as it may blank the
> tail a bit more than a FP prop.
>
> For the first few flights, it may be wise to use some ballast to put
> the CG near the middle of the recommended range. After a few flights
> you can start adjusting the amount of ballast to slowly explore the
> forward and aft CGs.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
> Search Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
>
>
>
Message 33
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Ahhh,
Dana, I'm assuming we are talking about the infamous 0-360-A2G with the HA-
rear facing side draft Marvel Schebler carburator, most likely came from a
beech mousekateer with the 47000lb nose gear strut under the sump.
Change the oil sump/carb and intake runners, put on slick mags or XXX elec
ign you will be very close to an -A1A.
I'm guessing you won't fit the original installation around the conventional
RV engine mount ring with the aft sump and carb. The cross bar that ties the
leg sockets is right smack dab in the way.
But if you want a CS prop you may have some problems as most of them were
not drilled for the fitting into the nose case either. But the stock crank
is hollow and will work if someone were to drill/tap this during an overhaul
and the governor pad is there with studs. You will have to put the longer
studs in as well. When you do make sure you seal the crap out of the lower
ones as they are below the oil level with 7 qts and the oil will track out
the threads.
I ended up using proseal after cleaning 47 times with MEK on my 4th attempt
at sealing them. That said, I pity the poor bastard who gets to remove them.
Not sure if anything else is different, I did a parts comparison on this
engine and didn't find anything, but that isn't an absolute. I have one in
my -6 configured to something close to an -A4M as it has a solid crank. (I
got a really good deal on the crank so couldn't pass it up.)
W
Heyn gang, will an A2G fit a 7, not an A?
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
do not archive
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 34
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Doug Rosendall - are you our there?
Neal
334-546-2033
neal@appaero.com
neal.george@maxwell.af.mil
do not archive
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Where's Doug? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 5 Jan 2006, at 16:59, George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/XPRR
> <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
>
>
> Doug Rosendall - are you our there?
Neal,
The last e-mail I had from Doug ( a few weeks ago), indicated that he
no longer monitored the RV-List. His departure seemed to follow a
period in which the signal to noise ratio had gotten quite low. It
is a shame, as he had a lot of valuable experience to pass on. But
that's what happens when too many people can't restrain their desire
to talk about anything, anywhere. Anyone who wishes to comment on
that thought - please send the replies direct to me, rather than
clutter the list with a thread about list clutter.
You should be able to search the list archives and find his e-mail
address.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
do not archive
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Airspeed Indicator Error |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
I found this site to be excellent for my mathematically challenged head.
http://www.iflyez.com/manometer.htm
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
Subject: RV-List: Airspeed Indicator Error
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I just did a balloon test to see if my pitot system would hold pressure. It
did, but I got two different airspeed indications & I'm wondering if the UMA
unit I bought from Vans can be adjusted. The UMA said I was using a 103 kt
balloon but the Dynon D10 said I was using a 109 kt balloon. Have any of
you observed differences like these? Which was the most reliable? Anyone
know of a book full of numbers and equations that would give me the air
pressure that corresponds to 110 kt? It seems to me that a test pilot
oriented book of that sort would be pretty useful during the coming months.
Dave Reel - RV8A FAA inspection Jan 25
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Safely adding Ballast: WAS Re: RV-List: RV-8 wheel landings
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
> I purchased 2 bags of 25 lb. lead shot at a gun store. They are nice to
> have around when you're not giving them a ride.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
I can second the bird shot idea. When I did my fly-off, I put the bags o'
birdshot into duffel bags and used the handles and straps on the duffel bags
as tie-down points to secure the load to the airplane. Also, I thought that
if I managed to break one of the shot bags, the duffels would retain the
shot, so I wouldn't have to dig 25 lbs of steel shot from all the nooks and
crannies in the fuselage.
In addition to making good ballast, you can use the shot bags as to back-up
aluminum if you're trying to stretch form it with a hammer.
KB
Message 38
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com>
Dana,
I installed an O-360-A2G from a Musketeer 'super sport' (yeah right ;-),
in my -6 back in 94.
I foolishly had the engine mount modified and had Airflow make a couple
of custom elbows to allow me to mount the Injection under the sump. I
may have some digital pics of this installation, but I DO NOT recommend
what I did.
If I had it to do over again, I would buy a more std A1A type sump and
have a much easier time.
I believe the Lancair folks used to buy the rear carb mount sumps and
modify them, so you may be able to sell the sump.
My A2G did indeed have a hollow crank, plugged to run a fixed prop. I
ran it fixed for 500 hours and then changed to C/S. The fitting that
'W' mentioned as may not be there in fact WAS there on my engine and the
conversion was no problem.
I do suffer from a hard to locate Oil leak, could the issue mentioned
about the lower studs on the governor be my problem? I will certainly
give it a try!!
So swap out that sump and go for it!
Dw
RV-6 920hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wheeler North
Subject: RV-List: A2G
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Ahhh,
Dana, I'm assuming we are talking about the infamous 0-360-A2G with the
HA- rear facing side draft Marvel Schebler carburator, most likely came
from a beech mousekateer with the 47000lb nose gear strut under the
sump.
Change the oil sump/carb and intake runners, put on slick mags or XXX
elec ign you will be very close to an -A1A.
I'm guessing you won't fit the original installation around the
conventional RV engine mount ring with the aft sump and carb. The cross
bar that ties the leg sockets is right smack dab in the way.
But if you want a CS prop you may have some problems as most of them
were not drilled for the fitting into the nose case either. But the
stock crank is hollow and will work if someone were to drill/tap this
during an overhaul and the governor pad is there with studs. You will
have to put the longer studs in as well. When you do make sure you seal
the crap out of the lower ones as they are below the oil level with 7
qts and the oil will track out the threads.
I ended up using proseal after cleaning 47 times with MEK on my 4th
attempt at sealing them. That said, I pity the poor bastard who gets to
remove them.
Not sure if anything else is different, I did a parts comparison on this
engine and didn't find anything, but that isn't an absolute. I have one
in my -6 configured to something close to an -A4M as it has a solid
crank. (I got a really good deal on the crank so couldn't pass it up.)
W
Heyn gang, will an A2G fit a 7, not an A?
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
do not archive
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how
to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Morawski" <brett.morawski@buckeye-express.com>
Dan,
Don't know which RV you're building, but I asked Van's that question on my
-8. They said (correctly as it turned out) to save one sheet of .032" to
make the R-717 shim on the rudder and R-716 rudder bottom attach strips.
The rest are for whatever.
Brett
Toledo
-8a wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
chaztuna@adelphia.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ?
--> RV-List message posted by: chaztuna@adelphia.net
Dan
The trim bundles are usually the left over "drop" from the aluminum sheets
used to make the prefabricated parts. This material is included for you to
use for fabricated add on parts, shims, scab flanges, rivet practice,etc.
When you get to the fuselage kit there are scores of parts which must be
fabricated from stock. I can't remember if there were any "fabricated from
stock" parts to be made from the wing kit.
Charlie Kuss
---- Dan <dan@rdan.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
>
> In my Empennage kit I got a "Trim Bundle" about 9 pieces 4 x 15
> Are these my practice pieces ,?,, or are these used in the kit,
> Thanks,
> Dan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message transport security by GatewayDefender.com
7:28:55 AM ET - 1/5/2006
Message 40
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| Subject: | Craftsman Compressor Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
Mike,
I have an old sears model 106.153681 that I purchased in 1969. The
instructions that came with it state the following:
"CAUTION -- Before rewiring the motor for operation at 115 volts, the
following items must be changed or checked.
1. The motor cord and plug and the pressure switch cord must be changed to
minimum of #12 gauge wire. The plug must also be changed from 230v type to
a 115v type.
2. The supply wiring plug, and protector should be capable of handling a
minimum of 20 amps and meet all local electrical codes for this minimum.
Instructions for wiring the motor for operation at 115 volts will be found
printed on the inside of the motor terminal cover."
If you don't find the data I will check the inside of my motor cover this
weekend.
Ken
Message 41
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy Listerpeople-
I've seen some mighty fine shots of RVs formating with foto ships, but I have
had, shall we say, less than spectacular results. Thought it was the camera
(1.3 Mpix Olympus), so Santa brought a Nikon 4600 (4 Mpix). Have taken some
"decent" shotz so far, but sure I can do better. Besides the usual suspects
such as glare elimination, composition, light angles etc., can anyone offer some
hints for optimizing air2air shotz with a digital camera, especially when
shooting through a not-so-optically-perfect plexi canopy? (Sam, Dan?)
Thanks for any hep!
Mark Phillips - N51PW, Columbia, TN
do not archive
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 wheel landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
Dear Jim
I have over 1300 hours on my RV8 and usually wheel land on hard surface and
stall land with FULL flaps on my grass airstrip. I have never noticed any
unusual landing characteristic with either full or half flap landings. My
RV8 is equipped with a Lycoming IO390 engine and an extended hub
AeroComposites propeller. My CG is in a normal range. I hope this helps
you.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Bean" <jim-bean@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 wheel landings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>
> Listers,
> A friend advised me not to full stall land an RV-8. He says that the
> elevator gets blanked when full flaps are used so he only wheel lands
> his plane. What say ye.
> Jim Bean
> First flight soon.
>
>
>
Message 43
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Lots of megapixels, clear vis, low angle evening or morning sunlight for
color and min shadows, decent background scenery with some contrasting
colors/patterns (white puffy clouds, green trees or land, blue ocean) and
*very* formation proficient so you can get in close and shoot a bunch of
pictures.
I'm not an expert, but have learned a few tricks after shooting quite a bit
of of video and photos. Write me off line for more details if you like.
Bryan Jones -8
www.LoneStarSquadron.com
Houston, Texas
>From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Air2air fotoz
>Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2006 22:20:23 EST
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Howdy Listerpeople-
>
>I've seen some mighty fine shots of RVs formating with foto ships, but I
>have
>had, shall we say, less than spectacular results. Thought it was the
>camera
>(1.3 Mpix Olympus), so Santa brought a Nikon 4600 (4 Mpix). Have taken
>some
>"decent" shotz so far, but sure I can do better. Besides the usual
>suspects
>such as glare elimination, composition, light angles etc., can anyone offer
>some
>hints for optimizing air2air shotz with a digital camera, especially when
>shooting through a not-so-optically-perfect plexi canopy? (Sam, Dan?)
>
>Thanks for any hep!
>Mark Phillips - N51PW, Columbia, TN
>do not archive
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
Dana,
I have both a Hartzell CS and an AeroComposites CS. The Hartzell yields 200
to 300 fpm more rate of climb, but is considerable slower in cruise. The
ACI is slightly less climb and 10 to 15 mph faster in cruise. The ACI prop
is also approx 15 lbs lighter than the Hartzell. Since I have an extended
hub set up with a NACA cowl, plenum set up, the ACI being lighter improves
the CG .and of course the speed increase is always welcome.
Average rate of climb with my IO390 engine is between 2000 and 3000 ft per
minute depending on temperature and load with the ACI prop. The only down
point with the ACI is that it costs more than the Hartzell, but I think that
it is worth the investment.
Dick Martin
RV8
N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A? As
> you
> can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360 hollow
> crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S or
> going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
>
> Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
>
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: <groves@epix.net>
Just curious Mr Martin did you have the the Hartzell on the IO-390 or just the
AC.
Thanks
Kirk
>
> From: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
> Date: 2006/01/05 Thu PM 10:51:31 EST
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
>
> Dana,
> I have both a Hartzell CS and an AeroComposites CS. The Hartzell yields 200
> to 300 fpm more rate of climb, but is considerable slower in cruise. The
> ACI is slightly less climb and 10 to 15 mph faster in cruise. The ACI prop
> is also approx 15 lbs lighter than the Hartzell. Since I have an extended
> hub set up with a NACA cowl, plenum set up, the ACI being lighter improves
> the CG .and of course the speed increase is always welcome.
> Average rate of climb with my IO390 engine is between 2000 and 3000 ft per
> minute depending on temperature and load with the ACI prop. The only down
> point with the ACI is that it costs more than the Hartzell, but I think that
> it is worth the investment.
> Dick Martin
> RV8
> N233M
> the fast one
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A? As
> > you
> > can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360 hollow
> > crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S or
> > going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
> >
> > Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
> >
> >
> >
> > Dana Overall
> > Richmond, KY i39
> > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> > Finish kit
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Air2air fotoz |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 19:20:23 2006-01-05 Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
> Besides the usual suspects such as glare elimination,
> composition, light angles etc., can anyone offer some hints for
> optimizing air2air shotz with a digital camera, especially when
> shooting through a not-so-optically-perfect plexi canopy? (Sam, Dan?)
You've got the basics covered. Here's some other suggestions:
1. Find a heavy hunk of steel about the size of the base of your camera.
Drill a hole through it of appropriate size, and screw it into the tripod
mount on the bottom of your camera. Put a couple of felt protective "feet"
in between the camera and the steel to protect the camera. And be careful
to not screw the bolt into the camera too far. You may need some washers.
This will increase the weight of your camera, and with the weight it's
stability.
2. Increase your shutter speed. 1/200 or 1/250 is good for getting a nice
prop sweep, but is hard to hand-hold with a point-and-shoot camera, even
with the extra weight. 1/500 will sharpen things up a bit, and still leave
*some* prop sweep visible.
3. Tell #2 to tighten it up. You want to be shooting the camera with the
zoom somewhere in the middle of it's range. The zooms on digicams don't
really get enough light at full telephoto, so you have to open the aperture
to get more light to the sensor, which robs your depth-of-field. You may
find that what looks like camera shake is just a blurry photo because the
focus isn't exact.
4. Finally, focus. The autofocus on digicams isn't the most reliable.
There are distinct "steps" in the autofocus, and it's possible to get your
subject in between two steps. At one it's out of focus, and as it moves to
the next step it gets sharp and then goes out of focus again. Having the
largest depth-of-field you can get helps with this. Taking a dozen photos
one after the other as the planes jockey for position around one another
also helps... One good photo in 12 and you're doing as well as many pro
photographers.
Here's my last air-to-air mission, coming up on two years ago:
http://b4.no-ip.org:8080/airframe/events/20040417_CYGB/thumb3.html
All photos were taken with a Nikon Coolpix 8700, with the extra battery
pack/vertical grip (the extra weight is like having the steel lump I
suggested above). The photo ship was a Piper Tri-Pacer with the rear
passenger door removed, and me tethered to the seatbelt anchor with a
climbing harness. Great fun!
-Rob Prior
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