Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:10 AM - Craftsman Compressor Help (PGLong@aol.com)
2. 07:15 AM - Canopy Care and Cleaning (Matthew Brandes)
3. 07:29 AM - Re: Air2air fotoz (Greg Young)
4. 07:57 AM - test (Mark Curley)
5. 08:03 AM - Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning (sportav8r@aol.com)
6. 08:03 AM - Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning (Mickey Coggins)
7. 08:03 AM - Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning (Dan Checkoway)
8. 08:06 AM - Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning (Stephen J. Soule)
9. 08:25 AM - Noise (Alan & Linda Daniels)
10. 08:41 AM - Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? (elsa-henry)
11. 08:52 AM - Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning (Ed Anderson)
12. 09:03 AM - Re: Craftsman Compressor Help (Larry Mac Donald)
13. 10:06 AM - way to cool cylinder head temps (DAVE MADER)
14. 10:41 AM - Re: way to cool cylinder head temps (Sam Buchanan)
15. 10:58 AM - Re: way to cool cylinder head temps (Duane Hopper)
16. 11:16 AM - Re: way to cool cylinder head temps (Pat Hatch)
17. 02:02 PM - Re: Constant Speed ()
18. 02:41 PM - Re: Constant Speed (czechsix@juno.com)
19. 03:04 PM - Re: Craftsman Compressor Help (Jaimes Biard)
20. 04:15 PM - Re: way to cool cylinder head temps (Vanremog@aol.com)
21. 04:15 PM - Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning (Wentz, Don)
22. 04:37 PM - Re: way to cool cylinder head temps (Jeff Point)
23. 04:44 PM - Re: way to cool cylinder head temps (Jerry Springer)
24. 05:11 PM - Re: way to cool cylinder head temps (DAVE MADER)
25. 06:03 PM - Re: way to cool cylinder head temps (Pat Hatch)
26. 07:47 PM - Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning (LarryRobertHelming)
27. 08:33 PM - Re: way to cool cylinder head temps (Dave Nellis)
28. 08:39 PM - >Re:Canopy Care & Cleaning (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
29. 10:18 PM - Re: way to cool cylinder head temps (Konrad L. Werner)
30. 11:47 PM - Re: way to cool cylinder head temps (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Craftsman Compressor Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
Are there wire numbers on the motor leads? Let me know how many leads and
the number on them. The windings are connected in series for 220 volt
operation. These are usually connected in parallel for 110 v operation, so you
should
see two leads together. If this is the case and there is no numbering on the
leads, you could ring out the two separate windings and just series them. If
it gets more complicated than this due to start windings and capacitor start
etc, take the motor to a rewind shop and they will reconnect it for you for
a minimal fee.
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Canopy Care and Cleaning |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matthew Brandes <matthew@n523rv.com>
I've mounted my canopy for what I hope is the 2nd to the last time (will have to
remove for paint) and removed the protective plastic. Now I am faced with
cleaning all the dust off of it and also keeping it looking good for the next
20+ years. :-) I searched the archives and found some old 1997 posts about
canopy cleaning but I'd like to hear some more recent experiences.
What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't leave
scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
What products are builders using to do the actual cleaning? Some old posts
indicated Pledge, Maguires #10, Windex w/ Vinegar.
What products should one absolutely avoid??
I've suggested to Ken at Van's to write up and article, so any information I get
from the group I will forward to Ken for reference.
Matthew
RV-9A N523RV
www.n523rv.com
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Rob,
Good photos, good subjects. As a Navion driver too, I thank you.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
Do not archive
>
> Here's my last air-to-air mission, coming up on two years ago:
>
> http://b4.no-ip.org:8080/airframe/events/20040417_CYGB/thumb3.html
>
> All photos were taken with a Nikon Coolpix 8700, with the
> extra battery pack/vertical grip (the extra weight is like
> having the steel lump I suggested above). The photo ship was
> a Piper Tri-Pacer with the rear passenger door removed, and
> me tethered to the seatbelt anchor with a climbing harness.
> Great fun!
>
> -Rob Prior
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Curley" <mcurley68@hotmail.com>
test
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Absolutely avoid microfiber car polishing cloths. I could never get my canopy
free of fine scratches and swirls until I ditched these and went back to cotton
flannel rags (I get these from Wally World- yellow with red serging).
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Matthew Brandes <matthew@n523rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Care and Cleaning
--> RV-List message posted by: Matthew Brandes <matthew@n523rv.com>
I've mounted my canopy for what I hope is the 2nd to the last time (will have to
remove for paint) and removed the protective plastic. Now I am faced with
cleaning all the dust off of it and also keeping it looking good for the next
20+ years. :-) I searched the archives and found some old 1997 posts about
canopy cleaning but I'd like to hear some more recent experiences.
What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't leave
scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
What products are builders using to do the actual cleaning? Some old posts
indicated Pledge, Maguires #10, Windex w/ Vinegar.
What products should one absolutely avoid??
I've suggested to Ken at Van's to write up and article, so any information I get
from the group I will forward to Ken for reference.
Matthew
RV-9A N523RV
www.n523rv.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Not sure where I read it, but it seemed authoritative at the
time. They recommended rinsing the canopy off with water
from a garden hose, just to get the big stuff, then using
plexus and microfiber cloths.
That's my plan until I find a better method. I've still got
the original protective plastic on my canopy.
I use this system with our club's pipers, and it works pretty
well. It seems like the more I use plexus and the microfiber
cloths, the better the windscreen and windows look.
Mickey
Matthew Brandes wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Matthew Brandes <matthew@n523rv.com>
>
> I've mounted my canopy for what I hope is the 2nd to the last time (will have
to
> remove for paint) and removed the protective plastic. Now I am faced with
> cleaning all the dust off of it and also keeping it looking good for the next
> 20+ years. :-) I searched the archives and found some old 1997 posts about
> canopy cleaning but I'd like to hear some more recent experiences.
>
> What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't leave
> scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
>
> What products are builders using to do the actual cleaning? Some old posts
> indicated Pledge, Maguires #10, Windex w/ Vinegar.
>
> What products should one absolutely avoid??
>
> I've suggested to Ken at Van's to write up and article, so any information I
get
> from the group I will forward to Ken for reference.
>
>
> Matthew
> RV-9A N523RV
> www.n523rv.com
>
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't
> leave
> scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
Bare hands and water!
That's the first thing I use if my canopy is really dusty or has caked on
bugs that I accidentally left sitting for several days. I spray or drizzle
water on the canopy, then I wipe it with my clean hand. Remove any rings
from your fingers, obviously. The dust and grit comes right off on your
hand and doesn't scratch. Frequently while doing this I clean my wiping
hand so I'm not pushing clumps of crap around.
After this process, I let what's left of the water evaporate, and then I
clean the canopy normally with a micro-fiber towel and Plexus. I don't
think the cleaner is all that critical as long as you know it won't harm the
plexi, and as long as you use something like a micro-fiber or flannel cloth
that won't scratch.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Canopy Care and Cleaning |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stephen J. Soule" <SSoule@pfclaw.com>
Matthew,
I use microfiber cloth and Plexus. Wash the cloth after a few canopy
cleanings.
Stephen Soule
RV-6A N227RV
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Brandes
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Care and Cleaning
--> RV-List message posted by: Matthew Brandes <matthew@n523rv.com>
I've mounted my canopy for what I hope is the 2nd to the last time (will
have to remove for paint) and removed the protective plastic. Now I am
faced with cleaning all the dust off of it and also keeping it looking good
for the next
20+ years. :-)
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
Just thought you would like to know. If you are not an AOPA member think about
joining. This is from AOPA
Alan
FAA MODIFIES RULE THAT WOULD HAVE HURT SAFETY
The FAA has changed a final rule that would have had a severe impact
on the ability of aircraft owners to improve their aircraft, including
safety enhancements. The agency agreed with AOPA that "the impact of
a new noise standard on already certificated aircraft could be significant."
The final rule on single-engine airplane noise notes, "The FAA agrees
with AOPA that the new standard should not apply to supplemental type
certificates." The FAA had originally proposed tightening the noise
standards for small aircraft to bring the U.S. regulations into conformity
with international rules. But the rule, as it was originally written,
would have applied to any change to an older aircraft that might affect
its "acoustic signature." "That means if you changed the propeller on
a 30-year-old aircraft, it would have had to suddenly comply with the
more stringent noise standards applied to new aircraft," said Luis Gutierrez,
AOPA director of regulatory and certification policy. "That could have
prevented aircraft owners from making safety and utility improvements to
their aircraft, and definitely hurt the small companies that offer those
improvements under the supplemental type certificate (STC) process." As
AOPA requested, the FAA said the noise rule will not apply to STCs for
aircraft certified under previous standards. For a list of STCs that
may be available for your aircraft, see AOPA's online STC database
( http://data.aopa2.org/mods/stc.cfm ).
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: trim bundle in the Empennage kt ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "elsa-henry" <elsa-henry@darlor-watch.com>
Dan, Back in late 1994 when I ordered my complete kit for my -6A (before a big
price hike in '95), the Van's shop packers must have cleaned out their scrap,
because they threw in a nicely bundled package of 2024 Al. mostly strips 35"
long with tapered sides, 9" on one end to ~3" on the other, with guages fom .016
to .040" and some .063! The bundle had a note written on it-- "from packers
in the shop, for that custom bracket, etc"--.There must have been over 60 pieces
and a considerable weight that they packed in the Finishing Kit crate! Despite
giving a lot of it away, I still have a few pieces left! This was in the
days before you guys got pre-punched skins.
Cheers!!--Henry Hore, -6A, C-GELS, sold in '05 for med. reasons--
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
There is a soft silicon? blade (sometimes called a California Wiper) that is
great for canopies. Wet the canopy then the blade floats on a thin layer of
water while pushing the rest in front of it picking up dust, debris, etc and
floats off the canopy. Just clean the blade with a cloth (I use my fingers)
before each swipe and I have found it to be very quick and safe. Can be
found in most auto stores.
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy Care and Cleaning
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>> What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't
>> leave
>> scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
>
> Bare hands and water!
>
> That's the first thing I use if my canopy is really dusty or has caked on
> bugs that I accidentally left sitting for several days. I spray or
> drizzle
> water on the canopy, then I wipe it with my clean hand. Remove any rings
> from your fingers, obviously. The dust and grit comes right off on your
> hand and doesn't scratch. Frequently while doing this I clean my wiping
> hand so I'm not pushing clumps of crap around.
>
> After this process, I let what's left of the water evaporate, and then I
> clean the canopy normally with a micro-fiber towel and Plexus. I don't
> think the cleaner is all that critical as long as you know it won't harm
> the
> plexi, and as long as you use something like a micro-fiber or flannel
> cloth
> that won't scratch.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Craftsman Compressor Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Mac Donald <lm4@juno.com>
Mike,
I have a Model 919.15294--5 HP--25 Gal.. I also have
the instruction manual and the parts manual.
The parts manual shows an exploded view with a power
cord only and tells nothing else about voltage and wiring.
The instruction manual tell nothing of how to change the
wiring to 220 volts; even though it says it is a 110/220 volt
machine. Sorry I can't be of more help.
Larry Mac Donald
Do not achcive
> > I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to
> 220V.
> > The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course
> the
> > manual has no wiring information.
> >
> > I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some
> internet
> > searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able to
> find a
> > wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams on it
> > anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
> >
> > Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from
> 110V to
> > 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any
> wiring
> > schematic for changing to 220V?
> >
> > Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > -Mike Kraus
Message 13
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| Subject: | way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVE MADER" <davemader@bresnan.net>
having just put about 3 hrs. on my newly completed RV-6, I have a queston
about cylinder head temps. The temps are reading between 150-200. This just
doesn't seems possible. My question is what to check first. Should I
calibrate my temp guage? block off the air inlet? I'm not sure what to do
first as all my other temps are normal. Oil is 170-180, EGT's are 1200-1500.
RPM's are all normal, 2300 static, 2750 full throttle, both mags seems to
work fine, and the engine sounds good. I just don't know if I am doing any
harm by continuing to run at these indicated temps. The outside temperature
here in Sheridan Wy. has been in the 40's lately and shouldn't be a factor.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
DAVE MADER wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVE MADER" <davemader@bresnan.net>
>
>
> having just put about 3 hrs. on my newly completed RV-6, I have a queston
> about cylinder head temps. The temps are reading between 150-200. This just
> doesn't seems possible.
Sounds about right.......if your gage is reading Celsius. Check to make
sure you have a F gage and sender, or if using a monitor, check the
setup options.
Sam Buchanan
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Duane Hopper <duanehopper@sprintmail.com>
Dave,
Perhaps you're seeing temperatures in C versus F on CHT; and F for both
oil and EGT?
If you're guage is reporting on the Celsius scale for CHT in the 150-200
range, you're closing matching "normal" range in Fahrenheit, at least
from my own experience with my new RV-6A. That'd be approximately
300-390 F, which is where my CHT's are operating at the rpm's you noted
after about 15 hours of operation. And my oil and EGT numbers are right
where yours are in Fahrenheit degrees (although I'm seeing a max of
about 1350 on EGT, not 1500).
Hope this was helpful,
Duane Hopper
DAVE MADER wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVE MADER" <davemader@bresnan.net>
>
>
>having just put about 3 hrs. on my newly completed RV-6, I have a queston
>about cylinder head temps. The temps are reading between 150-200. This just
>doesn't seems possible. My question is what to check first. Should I
>calibrate my temp guage? block off the air inlet? I'm not sure what to do
>first as all my other temps are normal. Oil is 170-180, EGT's are 1200-1500.
> RPM's are all normal, 2300 static, 2750 full throttle, both mags seems to
>work fine, and the engine sounds good. I just don't know if I am doing any
>harm by continuing to run at these indicated temps. The outside temperature
>here in Sheridan Wy. has been in the 40's lately and shouldn't be a factor.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
What kind of probes do you have: the bayonets that go into the bottom of the
cylinders or the ring thermocouples around the spark plug? Do you have a
probe for each cylinder? Have you checked for calibration? I would get a
coffee can or equivalent, put some water in it, mount it on the engine
somewhere within reach of the probe and put a torch to it until it boils.
Check for 212 degrees F at the instrument (roughly). You obviously have an
indication problem, so you need to troubleshoot to find out if it's a
thermocouple, wiring, or indicator problem. Sounds like you have only one
probe, so this might make it more difficult to troubleshoot. Hope this
helps.
Pat Hatch
Do not archive
RV-6
RV-7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DAVE MADER
Subject: RV-List: way to cool cylinder head temps
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVE MADER" <davemader@bresnan.net>
having just put about 3 hrs. on my newly completed RV-6, I have a queston
about cylinder head temps. The temps are reading between 150-200. This
just
doesn't seems possible. My question is what to check first. Should I
calibrate my temp guage? block off the air inlet? I'm not sure what to do
first as all my other temps are normal. Oil is 170-180, EGT's are
1200-1500.
RPM's are all normal, 2300 static, 2750 full throttle, both mags seems to
work fine, and the engine sounds good. I just don't know if I am doing any
harm by continuing to run at these indicated temps. The outside temperature
here in Sheridan Wy. has been in the 40's lately and shouldn't be a factor.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A?
>
Hartzell Blended Airfoil, purchase thru Van's for about $5,800. You will have
the fastest, least expensive, easiest to service and repair prop, WHAT else is
there to say.
As far as weight YOU need weight on the nose with a RV-7 and a O-360A1A. Do the
W&B.
DO your research and the answer is clear, others will tell you their opinion
but the FACTs are the Hartzell BA is significantly faster, cheaper and with the
history and level of testing and analysis Hartzell has done with the prop on
the RV airframe, using stock and modified engines it is a KNOWN. No other brand
can claim to have done the testing Hartzell has done on the RV airframe itself.
The BA was made for the RV, optimized. You will not regret it I assure you.
If you are on a budget the HC-C2YK/F7666-2 or -4 can be found used for $2,500-$4,000.
Sources are prop shops, RV'ers changing there prop for the BA. Although
slightly less top speed than the newer Hartzell BA, it still out preforms all
comers. My data comes from test Van did and published in 2004. You will excuses
and emphasis on Smoothness as a criteria to choose other brands but that
is really a personal subjective choice and find a well balanced engine/prop comb
(using a Hartzell) in is quite smooth.
Some are more are willing to pay many $1000's more and use a foreign built prop
for smoothness or a prop from a new small prop company, but that is your choice.
The Hartzell is US made and serviced. Chances are a prop shop near you is
fully certified and competent to overhaul a Hartzell from top to bottom.
George
------------------------------------------------
Time: 06:54:21 AM PST US
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A?
As you
can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360
hollow
crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S
or
going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
---------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
Dana,
I have a blended airfoil Hartzell which, based on others' performance numbers (i.e.
Vans, Randy Lervold, etc), seemed like the best bang for the buck. But I
can't comment on performance yet myself as I'm waiting on FAA and weather to get
flying...
One piece of advice I do have: If you decide to put a Sensenich on initially with
a desire to upgrade to Hartzell later, leave a bit of extra gap between the
spinner and the cowl when you fit your cowl to the Sensenich setup. Laird Owens
made the swap a few years ago and found that the Hartzell installation reduced
the gap by 1/8-3/16". I had a Sensenich at the time so I set my gap on the
large side at 5/16". When I recently swapped it out and put a Hartzell on, sure
enough, the gap was so tight I could hardly get the cowl on and off. The plans
call for a spacer (I think it's 1/4" thick--it comes with the Hartzell prop)
plus a washer to go between the prop hub and spinner backplate. I removed the
washer and left only the 1/4" spacer. This moved the backplate forward a bit
and resulted in a tight fit, perhaps 1/8", but allows me to get the cowl on
and off and looks nice. If you were to set it up for a really tight fit with the
Sensenich and later convert to Hartzell you'd be grinding paint and fiberglass
off the front face of your cowl and I think we can all agree that would NOT
be FUN.
Happy New Year and good luck with your decision.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D in T-6A colors, ready for final inspection...
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A? As you
can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360 hollow
crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S or
going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Dana,
I have a blended airfoil Hartzell which, based on others' performance numbers (i.e.
Vans, Randy Lervold, etc), seemed like the best bang for the buck. But I
can't comment on performance yet myself as I'm waiting on FAA and weather to get
flying...
One piece of advice I do have: If you decide to put a Sensenich on initially with
a desire to upgrade to Hartzell later, leave a bit of extra gap between the
spinner and the cowl when you fit your cowl to the Sensenich setup. Laird Owens
made the swap a few years ago and found that the Hartzell installation reduced
the gap by 1/8-3/16". I had a Sensenich at the time so I set my gap on the
large side at 5/16". When I recently swapped it out and put a Hartzell on, sure
enough, the gap was so tight I could hardly get the cowl on and off. The plans
call for a spacer (I think it's 1/4" thick--it comes with the Hartzell prop)
plus a washer to go between the prop hub and spinner backplate. I removed the
washer and left only the 1/4" spacer. This moved the backplate forward a bit
and resulted in a tight fit, perhaps 1/8", but allows me to get the cowl on
and off and looks nice. If you were to set it up for a really tight fit with the
Sensenich and later convert to Hartzell you'd be grinding paint and fiberglass
off the front face of your cowl and I think we can all agree that would NOT
be FUN.
Happy New Year and good luck with your decision.
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D in T-6A colors, ready for final inspection...
From: "Dana Overall" bo124rs@hotmail.com
Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
-- RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" bo124rs@hotmail.com
Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A? As you
can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360 hollow
crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S or
going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
Message 19
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| Subject: | Craftsman Compressor Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaimes Biard" <jbiard@charter.net>
I have a model 919.152940, 5hp-25gal. In the parts manual there is a
small paragraph that reads "Instructions for connecting the motor
operation at 240 volts can be obtained by ordering Kit #K-0191". It
goes on to say that a new plug is included in the kit and this kit can
be ordered from Sears.
Hope this helps.
Jaimes
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
n223rv@wolflakeairport.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: Craftsman Compressor Help
--> RV-List message posted by: n223rv@wolflakeairport.net
Yes, all the ones in the Sears by us are only 110V. They don't seem to
use the dual 110/220V motors anymore. Probably because of cost. Mine
is older and can be wired either 110V or 220V, once you figure out the
secret..... The funny thing is on my internet search, I found a note
from a Sears technician asking the same question! He apparently could
not figure it out either. It is such a simple change I am surprised how
hard it is to find a schematic..... -Mike
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan"
> --> <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
>
> Have you considered going back to sears and looking at the book from
> another compressor like yours?
> Tim
> Do Not Archive
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Mike Kraus
> Date: 01/04/06 21:07:12
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Craftsman Compressor Help
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus"
> --> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
>
> I have a Craftsman Compressor that is convertible from 110V to 220V.
> The compressor says "see manual for wiring diagram" but of course the
> manual has no wiring information.
>
> I called Sears and they were no help either. I have done some
> internet searches, and others have had similar issues, but were able
> to find a wiring schematic on the motor. Mine has no wiring diagrams
> on it anywhere. It is a GE Motor.
>
> Does anyone have a Craftsman compressor that is convertible from 110V
> to 220V? If so, can you look on the motor and see if there is any
> wiring schematic for changing to 220V?
>
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
> -Mike Kraus
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 1/6/2006 10:07:52 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
davemader@bresnan.net writes:
Should I
calibrate my temp guage?
I see your problem. You should really have installed a gauge. Use
spellcheck people.
do not archive.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 771hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Canopy Care and Cleaning |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com>
I use old T shirts and Pledge, 11 years on a -6 tip up, works great.
Dw
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matthew Brandes
Subject: RV-List: Canopy Care and Cleaning
--> RV-List message posted by: Matthew Brandes <matthew@n523rv.com>
I've mounted my canopy for what I hope is the 2nd to the last time (will
have to remove for paint) and removed the protective plastic. Now I am
faced with cleaning all the dust off of it and also keeping it looking
good for the next
20+ years. :-) I searched the archives and found some old 1997 posts
20+ about
canopy cleaning but I'd like to hear some more recent experiences.
What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't
leave scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
What products are builders using to do the actual cleaning? Some old
posts indicated Pledge, Maguires #10, Windex w/ Vinegar.
What products should one absolutely avoid??
I've suggested to Ken at Van's to write up and article, so any
information I get from the group I will forward to Ken for reference.
Matthew
RV-9A N523RV
www.n523rv.com
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Uh, yeah, but isn't "spell check" two words? That's what my spelchekur
says.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
do not archive
Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
>I see your problem. You should really have installed a gauge. Use
>spellcheck people.
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 1/6/2006 10:07:52 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>davemader@bresnan.net writes:
>
>Should I
>calibrate my temp guage?
>
>
>I see your problem. You should really have installed a gauge. Use
>spellcheck people.
>
>do not archive.
>
>GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 771hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>"________________________________"
>
Just deleted what I really wanted to say.
do not archive
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVE MADER" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Guys
Found my problem today and am almost embarassed to say what it is. (I don't
think spelling it correctly would have solved it) What I did was put the
probes in the wrong spot on each cylinder. On the 0-360 there are 2,
sometimes 3 different threaded taps for various things. Probes, primer, etc.
What I did was install the CHT sensors directly above where the intake tube
connect to the bottom of the cylinder. The probe was seeing much cooler temps
from the fuel, air mixture coming in. The CHT probe goes in the threaded hole
in the bottom center of each cylinder. DUH! Temps all normal now and
everything in the green. Maybe this post will help the 1 in a thousand that
didn't know this.
Dave Mader
RV-6.....3.8 hrs today
On Fri, 6 Jan 2006 19:10:14 EST
Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 1/6/2006 10:07:52 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> davemader@bresnan.net writes:
>
> Should I
> calibrate my temp guage?
>
>
> I see your problem. You should really have installed a gauge. Use
> spellcheck people.
>
> do not archive.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 771hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Dave,
Glad to hear you found your problem...Another cue is that the probes are NOT
pipe threads, so if you tried one of the 1/8" pipe fitting taps, it should
not thread properly, indicating that you are in the wrong hole. Don't ask
how I know...You mentioned the proper hole is in the bottom center of the
cylinder--also, the proper hole is not capped or plugged.
Pat Hatch
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DAVE MADER
Subject: Re: RV-List: way to cool cylinder head temps
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVE MADER" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Guys
Found my problem today and am almost embarassed to say what it is. (I don't
think spelling it correctly would have solved it) What I did was put the
probes in the wrong spot on each cylinder. On the 0-360 there are 2,
sometimes 3 different threaded taps for various things. Probes, primer,
etc.
What I did was install the CHT sensors directly above where the intake tube
connect to the bottom of the cylinder. The probe was seeing much cooler
temps
from the fuel, air mixture coming in. The CHT probe goes in the threaded
hole
in the bottom center of each cylinder. DUH! Temps all normal now and
everything in the green. Maybe this post will help the 1 in a thousand that
didn't know this.
Dave Mader
RV-6.....3.8 hrs today
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Canopy Care and Cleaning |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Here is what I am doing. When it is dusty, or has dirt or bugs on it I
sprinkle with a garden pressure sprayer and wet it down with just plain
water. Then use a clean old tee shirt and drag it across the glass to
remove water along with the dust and dirt particles WITHOUT applying any
pressure to the glass that might scratch it. If you need to do this a
second time, do so by rewetting and dragging. You want to get the dirt/dust
off primarily. Then when the grit if off, spray on the plexus or whatever
and work it in well using a clean cotton flannel and let it film up . After
dry, use another clean cotton flannel and remove the film. Basically, I
want to keep from rubbing any grit into the glass that will create tiny
micro scratches that cause the haze look over time. A trusted friend uses
Nu Finish car polish instead of Plexus. His results look fine also.
Indiana Larry, RV7 Tip Up SunSeeker 78 hours
"Please use the information and opinions I express with responsibility, and
at your own risk."
> --> RV-List message posted by: Matthew Brandes <matthew@n523rv.com>
>
>
> What cloth types are builders using to wipe the canopy with that doesn't
> leave
> scratches? Shami cloth? California Car Duster? Diapers?
>
> What products are builders using to do the actual cleaning? Some old
> posts
> indicated Pledge, Maguires #10, Windex w/ Vinegar.
>
> What products should one absolutely avoid??
>
> I've suggested to Ken at Van's to write up and article, so any information
> I get
> from the group I will forward to Ken for reference.
>
>
> Matthew
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com>
An older A&P once told me the best way to calibrate
CHT probes was to immerse them in almost boiling
water. When it boils, the guage should read 212
degrees. If not, adjust appropriately.
Dave
--- DAVE MADER <davemader@bresnan.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVE MADER"
> <davemader@bresnan.net>
>
>
> having just put about 3 hrs. on my newly completed
> RV-6, I have a queston
> about cylinder head temps. The temps are reading
> between 150-200. This just
> doesn't seems possible. My question is what to
> check first. Should I
> calibrate my temp guage? block off the air inlet?
> I'm not sure what to do
> first as all my other temps are normal. Oil is
> 170-180, EGT's are 1200-1500.
> RPM's are all normal, 2300 static, 2750 full
> throttle, both mags seems to
> work fine, and the engine sounds good. I just don't
> know if I am doing any
> harm by continuing to run at these indicated temps.
> The outside temperature
> here in Sheridan Wy. has been in the 40's lately and
> shouldn't be a factor.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: >Re:Canopy Care & Cleaning |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
The MOST important thing to remember is: NEVER use anything with petroleum
ingredients. Petroleum will craze & ruin a canopy.
I use spray-on Plexus for cleaner after the water rinse-off as noted by
others.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Dave,
Perhaps @ Sealevel. Boilingpoint varies with altitude/-airpressure. Lower air pressurelower
boilingpoint of water.
Albuquerque is at ~5000+ft. and Spaghetti cooking takes longer here because of
the lower boiling temperatures.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Nellis
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2006 9:33 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: way to cool cylinder head temps
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com>
An older A&P once told me the best way to calibrate
CHT probes was to immerse them in almost boiling
water. When it boils, the guage should read 212
degrees. If not, adjust appropriately.
Dave
--- DAVE MADER <davemader@bresnan.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVE MADER"
> <davemader@bresnan.net>
>
>
> having just put about 3 hrs. on my newly completed
> RV-6, I have a queston
> about cylinder head temps. The temps are reading
> between 150-200. This just
> doesn't seems possible. My question is what to
> check first. Should I
> calibrate my temp guage? block off the air inlet?
> I'm not sure what to do
> first as all my other temps are normal. Oil is
> 170-180, EGT's are 1200-1500.
> RPM's are all normal, 2300 static, 2750 full
> throttle, both mags seems to
> work fine, and the engine sounds good. I just don't
> know if I am doing any
> harm by continuing to run at these indicated temps.
> The outside temperature
> here in Sheridan Wy. has been in the 40's lately and
> shouldn't be a factor.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Just $16.99/mo. or less.
dsl.yahoo.com
--
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: way to cool cylinder head temps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 1/6/2006 4:37:54 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
jpoint@mindspring.com writes:
Uh, yeah, but isn't "spell check" two words? That's what my spelchekur
says.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
do not archive
Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
>I see your problem. You should really have installed a gauge. Use
>spellcheck people.
Good job picking up on the obvious. Don't you wish I was giving out prizes.
)
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 771hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
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