Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:48 AM - Re: Burning smell (frank goggio)
2. 11:35 AM - Re: Burning smell (Dick DeCramer)
3. 12:30 PM - Re: Burning smell (linn walters)
4. 01:01 PM - Re: Burning smell (sarg314)
5. 02:43 PM - Re: Burning smell (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
6. 04:04 PM - Re: Burning Smell (SCOTT SPENCER)
7. 04:45 PM - Re: Re: Burning Smell (Mannan J. Thomason)
8. 04:46 PM - Re: Re: Burning Smell (Steve Struyk)
9. 06:11 PM - Re: Re: Constant Speed (dick martin)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Burning smell |
--> RV-List message posted by: "frank goggio" <fgoggio@nc.rr.com>
steve, i am running the same engine setup as you in my 6,same thing
happened to me, found that i need to put some aluminum tape inside the
cowling near the exhause pipes where they were close to the fiberglass
cowling, to reflect the heat away from the fiberglass, its gets real hot
there,after 40 hrs i have got to repait the bottom half of the cowling as
the paint has blistered before i found what was going on,after the tape
inside no more smell or problems frank goggio fayetteville nc, rv6a
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
> [Original Message]
> From: Steve Struyk <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 1/7/2006 11:35:44 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Burning smell
>
> If it matters it's a O-360-A1A, Dual Mags (Slicks) with a single heat
muff. I'm still running straight mineral oil and wonder if it smells any
different when it burns. My oil breather is set up to drip any oil on the
exhaust rather than gum up the belly of the plane. Perhaps this is the
culprit. Then engine is clean and dry with no signs of any leaks.
Steve
I have the same oil breather drip system and have noticed no smell at all.
I also have sticky backed aluminum sheet lining the "hot spots" on the
inside of my cowl to protect the fiberglass from exhaust heat which does
work well. There is about 1" square that has received some heat and after
100 hrs this spot has discolored so there is heat present there. The
aluminum sheet is available from Vans and is cheap.
Dick DeCramer
RV6 N500DD
Northfield, MN
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Burning smell |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Got a wood prop??? Might aughta check that.
Linn
>>Subject: RV-List: Burning smell
>>
>>If it matters it's a O-360-A1A, Dual Mags (Slicks) with a single heat
>>
>>
>muff. I'm still running straight mineral oil and wonder if it smells any
>different when it burns. My oil breather is set up to drip any oil on the
>exhaust rather than gum up the belly of the plane. Perhaps this is the
>culprit. Then engine is clean and dry with no signs of any leaks.
>
>Steve
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Burning smell |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I am putting the foil tape in the exhaust area of the cowling too, but
under it I am painting on a ceramic insulator. See "Heat Shield" from
www.bvmjets.com. I'm not flying yet, but indications are that a few
coats of this stuff will support a temperature gradient much larger than
we get between the inside surface of our cowlings and the outside
world. I just finished painting the stuff on the inside of my
fiberglass cooling plenum.
Frank goggio wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "frank goggio" <fgoggio@nc.rr.com>
>
>steve, i am running the same engine setup as you in my 6,same thing
>happened to me, found that i need to put some aluminum tape inside the
>cowling near the exhause pipes where they were close to the fiberglass
>cowling, to reflect the heat away from the fiberglass, its gets real hot
>there,after 40 hrs i have got to repait the bottom half of the cowling as
>the paint has blistered before i found what was going on,after the tape
>inside no more smell or problems frank goggio fayetteville nc, rv6a
>
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
I just got some ceramic additive for paint that is supposed to do the same thing.
Supposedly it was a spin-off product from NASA and has a write-up from NASA
Ames and a bunch of testimonials. Haven't tried it yet so I can say if it
works well but I plan on doing my firewall and inside cowl with it.
http://www.hytechsales.com/
Michael Sausen
-10 #352 Fuselage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of sarg314
Subject: Re: RV-List: Burning smell
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I am putting the foil tape in the exhaust area of the cowling too, but under it I am painting on a ceramic insulator. See "Heat Shield" from www.bvmjets.com. I'm not flying yet, but indications are that a few coats of this stuff will support a temperature gradient much larger than we get between the inside surface of our cowlings and the outside
world. I just finished painting the stuff on the inside of my
fiberglass cooling plenum.
Frank goggio wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "frank goggio" <fgoggio@nc.rr.com>
>
>steve, i am running the same engine setup as you in my 6,same thing
>happened to me, found that i need to put some aluminum tape inside the
>cowling near the exhause pipes where they were close to the fiberglass
>cowling, to reflect the heat away from the fiberglass, its gets real
>hot there,after 40 hrs i have got to repait the bottom half of the
>cowling as the paint has blistered before i found what was going on,after the
tape
>inside no more smell or problems frank goggio fayetteville nc, rv6a
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Burning Smell |
--> RV-List message posted by: SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic@sbcglobal.net>
...Anybody have any ideas?
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S
St. Charles MO
6.2 Hrs
Steve!!!
If you by chance are running a wood propeller -BE AFRAID. BE VERY AFRAID!
If you do indeed have a wood prop what you are smelling might very possibly be
the back of your propeller burning/charring from the friction against your prop
hub because of relative motion/working/fretting due to insufficient torque.
What this also means is that your prop bolts are being fatigued (due to being
bent back and forth on a micro scale with this condition) and should no longer
be trusted.
If your prop is wood then smell around the root of the prop for burnt wood smell.
Check the prop bolt torque. Remove the propeller and inspect if this is the
case. Prudence would dictate doing this stuff anyway just to be sure.
If there IS charring on the propeller crankshaft mating surface then you are
in for a new set of prop bolts at the very least and at worst mabye a whole new
prop too... but count your blessings because many experimentals have been lost
entirely due to losing wood props in flight because of the bolt fatigue in
this situation. I personally know a guy whose brother was badly burned when he
had to do a forced landing in their RV-4 due to losing the prop in flight. The
plane was totalled.
Let us know what you find.
Incidentally wood props are great if you keep a close eye on them. Always check
prop bolt torque religiously and regularly -especially after temp and humidity
changes. Consider a flywheel weight and a prop shaft extension with a larger
diameter mating surface too.
Scott
N4ZW
RV-4 -several hundred hours on wood Pacesetter 68x69
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Burning Smell |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj@alltel.net>
To all builders out there with wood props:
Check out Saber Mfg, Inc. Granbury, TX. He makes a prop extension with a 7
inch diameter prop flange which gives about 30 percent extra surface contact
area. Expecially recommended for engines over 150 hp. With proper torque,
this should help stop the possibility of charring.
http://www.geocities.com/sabermfg/
Not affiliated in any way----just a happy customer, he made an extension for
my constant-speed to help cure a cowl fit problem..
Mannan
----- Original Message -----
From: "SCOTT SPENCER" <aerokinetic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Burning Smell
> --> RV-List message posted by: SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> ...Anybody have any ideas?
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, N842S
> St. Charles MO
> 6.2 Hrs
>
> Steve!!!
>
> If you by chance are running a wood propeller -BE AFRAID. BE VERY AFRAID!
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Burning Smell |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
List,
Thanks to all who responded to my question. For those who asked, no, it's
not a wood prop. I did line the lower cowl with sticky back foil before any
engine runs and first flight but perhaps the pipes, as they exit the cowl ,
are too close to the cowl. I'm out of town for a few days and will check it
out when I return.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: "SCOTT SPENCER" <aerokinetic@sbcglobal.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Burning Smell
> --> RV-List message posted by: SCOTT SPENCER <aerokinetic@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
> ...Anybody have any ideas?
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, N842S
> St. Charles MO
> 6.2 Hrs
>
> Steve!!!
>
> If you by chance are running a wood propeller -BE AFRAID. BE VERY AFRAID!
>
> If you do indeed have a wood prop what you are smelling might very
> possibly be the back of your propeller burning/charring from the friction
> against your prop hub because of relative motion/working/fretting due to
> insufficient torque. What this also means is that your prop bolts are
> being fatigued (due to being bent back and forth on a micro scale with
> this condition) and should no longer be trusted.
>
> If your prop is wood then smell around the root of the prop for burnt
> wood smell. Check the prop bolt torque. Remove the propeller and inspect
> if this is the case. Prudence would dictate doing this stuff anyway just
> to be sure.
>
> If there IS charring on the propeller crankshaft mating surface then you
> are in for a new set of prop bolts at the very least and at worst mabye a
> whole new prop too... but count your blessings because many experimentals
> have been lost entirely due to losing wood props in flight because of the
> bolt fatigue in this situation. I personally know a guy whose brother was
> badly burned when he had to do a forced landing in their RV-4 due to
> losing the prop in flight. The plane was totalled.
>
> Let us know what you find.
>
> Incidentally wood props are great if you keep a close eye on them. Always
> check prop bolt torque religiously and regularly -especially after temp
> and humidity changes. Consider a flywheel weight and a prop shaft
> extension with a larger diameter mating surface too.
>
> Scott
> N4ZW
> RV-4 -several hundred hours on wood Pacesetter 68x69
>
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Constant Speed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
Dana,
I put approximately 300 hours on the IO360 before converting to the IO390.
The IO390 added approximately 5% in all parameters.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: <groves@epix.net>
Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed
> --> RV-List message posted by: <groves@epix.net>
>
> Just curious Mr Martin did you have the the Hartzell on the IO-390 or
> just the AC.
> Thanks
> Kirk
>>
>> From: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
>> Date: 2006/01/05 Thu PM 10:51:31 EST
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Constant Speed
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
>>
>> Dana,
>> I have both a Hartzell CS and an AeroComposites CS. The Hartzell yields
>> 200
>> to 300 fpm more rate of climb, but is considerable slower in cruise. The
>> ACI is slightly less climb and 10 to 15 mph faster in cruise. The ACI
>> prop
>> is also approx 15 lbs lighter than the Hartzell. Since I have an
>> extended
>> hub set up with a NACA cowl, plenum set up, the ACI being lighter
>> improves
>> the CG .and of course the speed increase is always welcome.
>> Average rate of climb with my IO390 engine is between 2000 and 3000 ft
>> per
>> minute depending on temperature and load with the ACI prop. The only
>> down
>> point with the ACI is that it costs more than the Hartzell, but I think
>> that
>> it is worth the investment.
>> Dick Martin
>> RV8
>> N233M
>> the fast one
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed
>>
>>
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>> >
>> > Anyone got any personnal choices for good C/S props for an O 360A1A?
>> > As
>> > you
>> > can see, I've sold the rotary and am planning on putting a new 360
>> > hollow
>> > crank. The idea right now is to go fixed with the option of going C/S
>> > or
>> > going hollow and just dropping the bucks and going C/S.
>> >
>> > Gotta put some numbers together. Time to fly this think!!!!
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > Dana Overall
>> > Richmond, KY i39
>> > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>> > Finish kit
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|