Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:36 AM - Re: AFP mixture cable length (Ralph E. Capen)
2. 05:48 AM - Re: Aeromedical, which is best (Chuck Jensen)
3. 05:49 AM - Re: AFP mixture cable length (Alex Peterson)
4. 06:11 AM - Re: AFP mixture cable length (sarg314)
5. 06:53 AM - Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (Bob Collins)
6. 07:30 AM - Oregon Aero seats (Bob Collins)
7. 08:50 AM - Re: AFP mixture cable length (Ralph E. Capen)
8. 09:29 AM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (John Jessen)
9. 09:57 AM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (Dan Checkoway)
10. 10:35 AM - Re: AFP mixture cable length (sarg314)
11. 10:55 AM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (Chuck Jensen)
12. 11:26 AM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (Gerry Filby)
13. 11:38 AM - Re: Re: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ? (Ross S)
14. 12:01 PM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (Dan Checkoway)
15. 12:27 PM - Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (JohnR)
16. 01:50 PM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (Mark Grieve)
17. 01:52 PM - Re: Re: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ? (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
18. 03:10 PM - Re: Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (Mark/Kara Phillips)
19. 03:40 PM - Re: Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net (Bob Collins))
20. 03:50 PM - EZ Pilot Autopilot (Robin Marks)
21. 05:10 PM - control cables and engine movement (sarg314)
22. 05:10 PM - Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message from ... (Bobby Hester)
23. 05:23 PM - Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (Brian Weaver)
24. 06:06 PM - Best way to cut .040 stock (PeterHunt1@aol.com)
25. 06:20 PM - Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot (sportav8r@aol.com)
26. 06:28 PM - Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot (sportav8r@aol.com)
27. 07:20 PM - Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message from valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Jeff Dowling)
28. 07:33 PM - Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot (Jeff Dowling)
29. 07:37 PM - Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message from... (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
30. 08:04 PM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (rv6fly@bresnan.net)
31. 08:08 PM - Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (dick martin)
32. 08:09 PM - Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot (Sam Buchanan)
33. 08:10 PM - Does anyone know this RV6 (rv6fly@bresnan.net)
34. 08:14 PM - Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot (dick martin)
35. 08:18 PM - Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message from valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (dick martin)
36. 08:38 PM - Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (Bob Collins)
37. 08:40 PM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (Bob Collins)
38. 10:05 PM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (HCRV6@comcast.net)
39. 10:20 PM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (Gerry Filby)
40. 10:21 PM - Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot (Robin Marks)
41. 10:33 PM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (Alan & Linda Daniels)
42. 11:55 PM - Re: Best way to cut .040 stock (Doug Gray)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: AFP mixture cable length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
I'm getting ready for the same trials and tribulations.......
Tom, Where are you penetrating the firewall? I've got vans FWF plans (a little
late in my case - I had already put stuff in so I may not be able to use their
given location......
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>Sent: Jan 10, 2006 11:53 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: AFP mixture cable length
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>I spent an embarassingly long amount of time trying to figure out where
>the mixture cable (for AFP) should penetrate the firewall and how long
>it should be (for RV-6A with IO360). I used my heater cable control to
>estimate it. I came up with a length of about 45" or 45.5" . I notice
>that Van's mixture cable for a carburator is listed as 45", which is
>encouraging.
>
>Can some one with an AFP unit confirm for me that 45" is a reasonable
>length for the mixture cable? If you bought the Van's cable, did you
>end up thinking it should have been a little longer or shorter?
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>Engine.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Aeromedical, which is best |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Dear FAA Sucks,
I would like to point out some errors that you made in your
rant.........ah....errr....ahhh, never mind.
Chuck Jensen
FAA Sucks,
This is a FAA medical rant.
My experience with the FAA Medial branch is they are corrupt,
dishonest and certainly unwilling to follow there own regulations when
it pleases them. Why is it necessary for one to routinely need the
assistance of APOA or EAA much less pay a hired gun $1000 to present
your case to the FAA. Why should my clinical doctor need tutoring in
the correct language to sent to the FAA, and why should the honest
evaluation and opinion of an examining physician require the nuance to
satisfy the Bring me a different colored rock mentality of the FAA.
Summary of my case:
20 years ago suffered documented mechanical damage to lungs,
oxygenation at rest not impaired.
3 years ago bypass surgery satisfactory recovery.
When unable to complete the 9 minutes required (5 min)of the Bruce
protocol from lung capacity on a hot August day at 7000 feet msl (think
density altitude) the FAA was consulted, and asked if the chemical
stress test should be completed. The FAA replied over the phone, with
sufficient delay for a doctor consultation, no the conditions would be
factored in to the decision.
FAA denial, after episodes of lost records etc., and disallowance of
the chemical stress test
A subsequent stress test at 5000 msl was improved (6 min) but the 9
minutes were not completed. The clinical physical evaluated the results
were acceptable for unlimited activity.
Another FAA denial citing the 9 minute requirement and disallowance of
the chemical stress test allowed by their own regulations.
I propose taking the 3rd class medical out of the hands of the FAA
(maybe even all classes). With a 100,000 case backlog this should be
evidence enough of the FAA incompetence, an inability to function and
the lack of predictability of illness are reasons to remove this from
the FAA prevue. Privatetization, if you will, is the answer to
incompetent government.
Sincerely B
---------------------------------
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events,
holidays, whatever.
Message 3
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| Subject: | AFP mixture cable length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I spent an embarassingly long amount of time trying to figure
> out where the mixture cable (for AFP) should penetrate the
> firewall and how long it should be (for RV-6A with IO360). I
> used my heater cable control to estimate it. I came up with
> a length of about 45" or 45.5" . I notice that Van's mixture
> cable for a carburator is listed as 45", which is encouraging.
>
> Can some one with an AFP unit confirm for me that 45" is a
> reasonable length for the mixture cable? If you bought the
> Van's cable, did you end up thinking it should have been a
> little longer or shorter?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Tom, besides overall length, the travel of the cable must be enough to get
full travel of whatever is being controlled. I have an AFP on a 360, and I
recall that the travel needed to be more than what Van's normally supplied
(at least in 2000). Additionally, the travel of a given cable is reduced by
any accumulated curvature of the installed cable. I believe that there is a
good writeup of all this both in the archives (search my name and cable?)
and in Aircraft Spruce's catalog. The cables are made by a company called
ACS (this isn't Aircraft Spruce), and all of the cable parameters can be
custom ordered very quickly and reasonably. Additionally, the free length
of the actuator rod on the engine end can be specified.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: AFP mixture cable length |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Ralph:
I am planning to penetrate the firewall about 4.3" up from the floor
and as close as possible to the inboard edge of the vertical 3/4" angle
that is a few inches left of center. This is for a 6. If you have a 7,
the firewall angle may be a bit different. Horizontally the penetration
point is about 3.2" left of the centerline, I think. I didn't measure
that very accurately. My main requirement is to be inboard of that
angle. That gives it a pretty straight shot from the firewall to the
mixture arm on the AFP unit. On the inside, an upward turn of radius 4"
or 5" (depending on how you route it around the horizontal rudder pedal
mount tubes) will get it to the standard place on the inst. panel. I
plan to use a Cablecraft cable that spec's a min. bend radius of 3".
It could penetrate a bit higher, but I have an obstacle on the firewall
there and if I moved it any higher at all it would have to go about 3"
higher to clear, so I decided to keep it down low.
I used a piece of 3/16" dowl held against the mixture arm to
project the path back towards the firewall as I moved the mixture arm.
The cable attach point (for Cablecraft) is 8.4" back from the end of the
cable at max extension (=full rich), so that gives you an idea of where
it has to attach to the mounting bracket. I may not use the
AFP-supplied brackets. I might make my own. Depends on how they line up
once the cable is in hand. BTW, if you don't already have it, note that
Vans has a cable end mounting kit cheap. It has rod end bearing, special
small washers, etc. to connect the cable to the arm on the carb/fuel servo.
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>I'm getting ready for the same trials and tribulations.......
>
>Tom, Where are you penetrating the firewall? I've got vans FWF plans (a little
late in my case - I had already put stuff in so I may not be able to use their
given location......
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Oshkosh Housing Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
The more I think about this, the more I want to explore the idea of an RV
neighborhood in Camp Scholler.
One possibility, it seems to me, is me going over on Friday this year
(isntead of Sunday) and grab the permits and passes for those who want to
camp in the same area and who are driving in or flying in later. Then I'd
stake out all the spots and as folks show up, they can call me on the
cellphone and I can meet them at the gate or registration area and give them
the paperwork and the directions (and a ride if need be).
Usually we put together the RV7 BBQ on Wednesday (now known as the RV7
Family Reunion), but we could actually make it a week-long affair with a
single spot in the middle of this neighborhood as the RV builders social
center, culminated with the big get-together on Wednesday.
Usually this spot is on 12th between Lindbergh and Elm, and I wouldn't
expect it to be any different.
Worth considering.
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | Oregon Aero seats |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
I just received the foam core seats from Oregon Aero for my RV-7A and they
are sweet and fun to sit on to make the required airplane noises.
But I notice that they're not configured for the crotch strap. How are you
similar seat owners handling this? I kinda hate the idea of just hacking
out a big old hole in something that just cost me $700, but is that the way
to go?
Thanks
Bob
St. Paul
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: AFP mixture cable length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Tom,
I'm building a 6A and already have my Odyssey battery mounted on the two vertical
angles that you reference (If I read/understand correctly). I do have space
between the top of the battery and the bottom of the oil-filter bulge that sticks
out aft of the firewall.
When you say about 3.2" left of center, I'm thinking you're sitting in the pilot's
seat looking under your instrument panel?!
Thanks,
Ralph
-----Original Message-----
>From: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>Sent: Jan 11, 2006 9:11 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: AFP mixture cable length
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>Ralph:
> I am planning to penetrate the firewall about 4.3" up from the floor
>and as close as possible to the inboard edge of the vertical 3/4" angle
>that is a few inches left of center. This is for a 6. If you have a 7,
>the firewall angle may be a bit different. Horizontally the penetration
>point is about 3.2" left of the centerline, I think. I didn't measure
>that very accurately. My main requirement is to be inboard of that
>angle. That gives it a pretty straight shot from the firewall to the
>mixture arm on the AFP unit. On the inside, an upward turn of radius 4"
>or 5" (depending on how you route it around the horizontal rudder pedal
>mount tubes) will get it to the standard place on the inst. panel. I
>plan to use a Cablecraft cable that spec's a min. bend radius of 3".
>
>It could penetrate a bit higher, but I have an obstacle on the firewall
>there and if I moved it any higher at all it would have to go about 3"
>higher to clear, so I decided to keep it down low.
>
> I used a piece of 3/16" dowl held against the mixture arm to
>project the path back towards the firewall as I moved the mixture arm.
>The cable attach point (for Cablecraft) is 8.4" back from the end of the
>cable at max extension (=full rich), so that gives you an idea of where
>it has to attach to the mounting bracket. I may not use the
>AFP-supplied brackets. I might make my own. Depends on how they line up
>once the cable is in hand. BTW, if you don't already have it, note that
>Vans has a cable end mounting kit cheap. It has rod end bearing, special
>small washers, etc. to connect the cable to the arm on the carb/fuel servo.
>
>Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>>
>>I'm getting ready for the same trials and tribulations.......
>>
>>Tom, Where are you penetrating the firewall? I've got vans FWF plans (a little
late in my case - I had already put stuff in so I may not be able to use their
given location......
>>
>>Thanks,
>>Ralph Capen
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
If you're not cutting a whole lot, I've used a Dremel with a cut off wheel
and found it not only fast but accurate. The other route is to make a zero
tolerance insert for your band saw so the material doesn't get sucked down
and stays nice and firm on the table. Make sure, however, that your band
saw blade is many teethed and that you tune it up so the blade doesn't
wander, ruining your cut. Works fine that way for most thicknesses.
John Jessen
RV-10 elevators.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick DeCramer
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
I cut from .020" to .125" aluminum sheet as well as aluminum angle stock to
.250 " using a band saw with a fine tooth plywood veneer blade. A power
hacksaw worked also but the aluminum is soft enough that the veneer blade
cut faster and actually better so I stopped using it in favor of the
bandsaw. The cut is then finished with a small belt sander to remove the
blade marks and polished smooth with a scotchbrite wheel.
Dick DeCramer
N500DD RV6
100hours
N149KC RV4
Northfield, MN
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Is it just me, or has nobody mentioned using a SHEAR yet?
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> If you're not cutting a whole lot, I've used a Dremel with a cut off wheel
> and found it not only fast but accurate. The other route is to make a
> zero
> tolerance insert for your band saw so the material doesn't get sucked down
> and stays nice and firm on the table. Make sure, however, that your band
> saw blade is many teethed and that you tune it up so the blade doesn't
> wander, ruining your cut. Works fine that way for most thicknesses.
>
> John Jessen
> RV-10 elevators.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick DeCramer
> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:24 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
>
> I cut from .020" to .125" aluminum sheet as well as aluminum angle stock
> to
> .250 " using a band saw with a fine tooth plywood veneer blade. A power
> hacksaw worked also but the aluminum is soft enough that the veneer blade
> cut faster and actually better so I stopped using it in favor of the
> bandsaw. The cut is then finished with a small belt sander to remove the
> blade marks and polished smooth with a scotchbrite wheel.
>
> Dick DeCramer
> N500DD RV6
> 100hours
> N149KC RV4
> Northfield, MN
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: AFP mixture cable length |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Ralph:
Yes. Well actually I mean 3.2" left (airplane's left) from the
center of the nose gear. I made the assumption that was the centerline
of the fuselage. It's probably a bit off from centerline.
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Tom,
>
>I'm building a 6A and already have my Odyssey battery mounted on the two vertical
angles that you reference (If I read/understand correctly). I do have space
between the top of the battery and the bottom of the oil-filter bulge that
sticks out aft of the firewall.
>
>When you say about 3.2" left of center, I'm thinking you're sitting in the pilot's
seat looking under your instrument panel?!
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
A shear? That's cheating---that'd be too easy.
Chuck Jensen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Is it just me, or has nobody mentioned using a SHEAR yet?
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:28 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
>
> If you're not cutting a whole lot, I've used a Dremel with a cut off
wheel
> and found it not only fast but accurate. The other route is to make a
> zero
> tolerance insert for your band saw so the material doesn't get sucked
down
> and stays nice and firm on the table. Make sure, however, that your
band
> saw blade is many teethed and that you tune it up so the blade doesn't
> wander, ruining your cut. Works fine that way for most thicknesses.
>
> John Jessen
> RV-10 elevators.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick DeCramer
> Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:24 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
>
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
>
> I cut from .020" to .125" aluminum sheet as well as aluminum angle
stock
> to
> .250 " using a band saw with a fine tooth plywood veneer blade. A
power
> hacksaw worked also but the aluminum is soft enough that the veneer
blade
> cut faster and actually better so I stopped using it in favor of the
> bandsaw. The cut is then finished with a small belt sander to remove
the
> blade marks and polished smooth with a scotchbrite wheel.
>
> Dick DeCramer
> N500DD RV6
> 100hours
> N149KC RV4
> Northfield, MN
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
This is a case of SoCal bragging - those CNO guys 'n gals seem
to have every tool imaginable ;-)
How about a plasma screwdriver for my EPS conduits ?
g
do not archive
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Is it just me, or has nobody mentioned using a SHEAR yet?
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 9:28 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
> >
> > If you're not cutting a whole lot, I've used a Dremel with a cut off wheel
> > and found it not only fast but accurate. The other route is to make a
> > zero
> > tolerance insert for your band saw so the material doesn't get sucked down
> > and stays nice and firm on the table. Make sure, however, that your band
> > saw blade is many teethed and that you tune it up so the blade doesn't
> > wander, ruining your cut. Works fine that way for most thicknesses.
> >
> > John Jessen
> > RV-10 elevators.
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick DeCramer
> > Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:24 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dick DeCramer" <diesel@rconnect.com>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Best way to cut .040 stock
> >
> > I cut from .020" to .125" aluminum sheet as well as aluminum angle stock
> > to
> > .250 " using a band saw with a fine tooth plywood veneer blade. A power
> > hacksaw worked also but the aluminum is soft enough that the veneer blade
> > cut faster and actually better so I stopped using it in favor of the
> > bandsaw. The cut is then finished with a small belt sander to remove the
> > blade marks and polished smooth with a scotchbrite wheel.
> >
> > Dick DeCramer
> > N500DD RV6
> > 100hours
> > N149KC RV4
> > Northfield, MN
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
I had the hartzel C/S that vans sells for the 200 horse engine. I would
gladly use it again or step up to the new blended airfoil one when it is
available. The MT's sure are pretty.
>From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ?
>Date: Tue, 10 Jan 2006 16:39:10 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort"
><gcomfo@tc3net.com>
>
>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ?
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>
>It may only be 7 or so cubes per cylinder, but if you look at the total
>displacement difference, the 390 is 8.3% bigger. Equate this to power and
>your looking at almost 17 horses. In reality, the 390 doesn't make 217
>horses, it makes right at 210. Many have been run on a good dyno (BPE in
>Tulsa) and they do in fact make rated power, which is more than can be said
>for the 200 horse rated 360.
>
>Ross
>Former RV-7 390 owner
>Future RV-7 390 owner
>
>Ross: What propeller did/will you use?
>
>Gordon Comfort
>N363GC
>
>_
>
>
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> This is a case of SoCal bragging - those CNO guys 'n gals seem
> to have every tool imaginable ;-)
>
> How about a plasma screwdriver for my EPS conduits ?
They make one of those?! Where?! (sound of drool hitting keyboard)
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JohnR" <RV7@agfp.com>
bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.n wrote:
> The more I think about this, the more I want to explore the idea of an RV
> neighborhood in Camp Scholler.
>
That sounds like a great idea! We are planning on attending Osh again this year
and it would be nice to meet some of the other builders. I would be in for a
spot in an RV neighborhood.
--------
JohnR
RV-7A - empennage, wing kit inventoried
N624KJ reserved
Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3002#3002
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
My favorite: Klein makes a bottle opener with the rubber grip just like
their screwdrivers. Lowe's carries them.
Mark
Do not archive
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>
>
>>This is a case of SoCal bragging - those CNO guys 'n gals seem
>>to have every tool imaginable ;-)
>>
>>How about a plasma screwdriver for my EPS conduits ?
>>
>>
>
>They make one of those?! Where?! (sound of drool hitting keyboard)
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RE: Was Constant Speed - I/O 390 engine performance ?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
I had the hartzel C/S that vans sells for the 200 horse engine. I would
gladly use it again or step up to the new blended airfoil one when it is
available. The MT's sure are pretty.
>Ross
>Former RV-7 390 owner
>Future RV-7 390 owner
>
>Ross: What propeller did/will you use?
Ross: Thanks for the reply. Did you find the RPM restriction bothersome? I
will use a 390 and am looking at props. Considering an Aerocomposites 2
blade unit.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Kara Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
Im for a RV campers area, count me in. Do not Archive
Mark Phillips
Williamsville,Illinois
RV6-Canopy-Finishing
----- Original Message -----
From: "JohnR" <RV7@agfp.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 2:26 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Oshkosh Housing Question...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "JohnR" <RV7@agfp.com>
>
>
> bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.n wrote:
>> The more I think about this, the more I want to explore the idea of an RV
>> neighborhood in Camp Scholler.
>>
>
>
> That sounds like a great idea! We are planning on attending Osh again this
> year and it would be nice to meet some of the other builders. I would be
> in for a spot in an RV neighborhood.
>
> --------
> JohnR
> RV-7A - empennage, wing kit inventoried
>
> N624KJ reserved
> Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3002#3002
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net (Bob Collins)
OK, tell you what. Let me work on the BBQ setup a little bit and around March
I'll put up a web site with the plans. We'll do a sign-up thing on the Web site
(http://home.comcast.net/~bcollinsrv7a/eaa/) (I think because of the cost involved, folks who want sites reserved are going to have Paypal (is that a verb) the fee ahead of time so nobody gets stuck with $100 bill for someone that doesn't show. We'll organize some volunteers and we'll get it done.
Do not archive
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "JohnR" <RV7@agfp.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "JohnR" <RV7@agfp.com>
>
>
> bcollinsrv7a(at)comcast.n wrote:
> > The more I think about this, the more I want to explore the idea of an RV
> > neighborhood in Camp Scholler.
> >
>
>
> That sounds like a great idea! We are planning on attending Osh again this year
> and it would be nice to meet some of the other builders. I would be in for a
> spot in an RV neighborhood.
>
> --------
> JohnR
> RV-7A - empennage, wing kit inventoried
>
> N624KJ reserved
> Numbers 6:24 - The LORD bless thee, and keep thee
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3002#3002
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | EZ Pilot Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
Dear List,
I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
<http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
Robin
RV-6A 240 hours
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | control cables and engine movement |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
While figuring out how to route my control cables for throttle and
mixture, it occurs to me that the engine can rotate quite a bit when it
starts and stops. There is only going to be 3 or 4 inches of cable
between the firewall, where it is firmly gripped, and the notch in the
cable sheath where it is also firmly gripped. Engine movement could put
a lot of tension on the cable.
Is this something I should worry about?
Should I be allowing for some "slack" in the cable between the firewall
and the attach point? It doesn't seem that's very easy to do.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from ...
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
Mark, did you forget to take your medication again?
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 01/10/2006 2:26:10 PM Central Standard Time,
>cweyant@chuckdirect.com writes:
>Can anyone help me
>get past that fear?
>
>
>
>Hail NO!
>
>Fear not, Chuck- my freshly-painted RV sat the entire week last year
>(including the nasty storms of Tuesday nite) totally unscathed. Here's the secret
>(shhhh- tell NO glass-plane builder!): If bad WX forcast in next 24 hours, at
>approach of dark, scatter several Pringles soaked with Jose Cuervo around your
>chaise lounge. Wait til at least 200 P-38 sized mosquitos congregate on them,
>then quickly slap a CAT baseball cap over each, trapping the bugs. Promising
>them all a ride in your RV, break out the tiny tennis rackets in your camping
>emergency kit and distribute to the skeeters, along with some roasted Planters
>p'nuts to practice with under the hats. If frozen precip begins to fall, tell
>them "NO RIDE if there's a SCRATCH on the paint!" Let 'em loose and get out
>of the way.
>
>Or pray, whichever floats yer boat. Personally, it's "que sera, sera"-
>you'll feel MUCH better that you weren't alone...
>
>DO NOT ARCHIVE this bad dream-
>Mark
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Weaver" <bweaver1@twcny.rr.com>
I=92ve had some good luck getting a hotel in Appleton and taking the shuttle
bus down to the convention. The bus ride is reasonable and goes directly
to the front gate =96 you don=92t need a car. You can either land at
Appleton=97there are shuttle busses to the hotels from the airport, or land at
OSH and take the shuttle back each night. They start running early in the
morning and the last one leaves the convention site about 7 pm. By that
time I=92m usually ready for bed anyway.
Brian Weaver
Mexico, NY
Cessna 140 driver until I get my kids through college
--
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
I had excellent success using a hand jig saw (DeWALT) and a fine blade and
moderate speed set on the trigger. Straight cuts or curves come out really
nice if you have a steady hand. I taped the stock to a table with the portion
to be removed hanging over the table edge. Cuts heavier stock just as well.
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Robin-
I'm ve
-----Original Message-----
From: Robin Marks <robin@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 18:48:52 -0500
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
Dear List,
I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
<http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
Robin
RV-6A 240 hours
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Robin- I'm quite happy with mine in the RV, both the EZ pilot and the altitude
hold. You are correct about direct interface with Navaid roll servo.
Be aware of what the unit will not (yet) do- coupled approaches including vertical
guidance, a feature offered by several EFIS box-autopilot combinations now.
To find out whether they will ever have this capability, talk directly with
the good folks at Trio. They are reluctant to tout their products, future plans,
trade secrets, and the weaknesses of the competition in public forums, but
are quite forthcoming if you ask direct questions.
Their customer service is the equal of anyone's.
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Robin Marks <robin@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 18:48:52 -0500
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
Dear List,
I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
<http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
Robin
RV-6A 240 hours
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message from |
valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
If UPS is still in business. I hear they may be going on strike.
do not archive
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chopper 1" <mkellems@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 11:20 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message
from valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chopper 1" <mkellems@bellsouth.net>
>
> I haven't seen this mentioned -- You also can box up whatever you want and
> UPS it next day to yourself at EAA Camp Scholler - Then same thing to
> your
> home when you leave. Makes room in your RV for flying comfort and/or
> easier
> to checkin at airlines for R/T flights. Mike RV3 N29AT
> DNA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> To: "not processed: message from valid local sender"
> <rv-list@matronics.com.from.valid.l>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message
> from valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>>
>> Matt, you can do it!!! At bare minimum, all you need extra is your
>> Linn
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>> Matt Johnson wrote:
>>
>> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>> >
>> >That would be nice but I have to fly commercially to get there so I
>> >would
> not be able to bring camping gear. I live in Central California.
>> >
>> >- Matt
>> >
>> >-----Original Message-----
>> >From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> >Date: Mon, 9 Jan 2006 19:13:18 EST
>> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed:
>> >message
> from valid l...
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>> >>
>> >>In a message dated 01/09/2006 4:35:35 PM Central Standard Time,
>> >>matt@n559rv.com writes:
>> >>Do you really have to plan for this over a year in advance in order to
>> >>go?
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>Howdy Matt-
>> >>
>> >>IMHO, there is ONLY one way to "do" Oshkosh- stay right there!
>>> >>OSH, it's the only way to go. And you'll save a HUGE amount of $$$
>> >>better
>> >>spent on the RV.
>> >> Priceless.
>> >>
>> >>And much cheaper than the motel/rental car/parking/restaurant/etc of
>> >>the
>> >>"others"!
>> >>
>> >>Contact me off-list for more info...
>> >>
>> >>Mark Phillips - Columbia, TN RV-6A N51PW
>> >>do not archive
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Are you sure you have the NavAid set up correctly? I have no qualms about
mine. I flick the switch to tk and it follows my gps course very closely,
including turns.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
>
> Dear List,
>
> I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
> of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
> <http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
> interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
> already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
> Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
> the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
>
>
> Robin
>
> RV-6A 240 hours
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from...
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 01/11/2006 7:12:32 PM Central Standard Time,
bhester@hopkinsville.net writes:
Mark, did you forget to take your medication again?
>>>do not archive
Nope- Jose every a.m., Pringles before bed & a pinch of proseal between
check&gum every Saturday and I'm good 2 goe! How 'bout some aero this weekend?
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly@bresnan.net
Folbrecht, Paul wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
>
>Was making the 909 (?) shims for the HS.
>
>Snips are not precise enough for stock this thick.
>
>Die grinder with a cutoff wheel worked Ok, but spun badly a couple times. I
>did one this way and one with the good 'ole hacksaw. Which might be the best
>method.
>
>I think these parts are too small for a bandway as well even if I had one that
>cuts Al well, which I don't.
>
>Just wondering if there were any suggestions for future parts of this type.
>
>do not archive
>
>Paul,
>
> I used a Delta, 3 wheel band saw on several airplane projects, cutting
>up to 1/4" aluminum. I used a regular wood blade with 14 TPI and LPS
>"Tap-All" on the cut line. I think kerosene works well for cutting
>aluminum if I remember correctly. With the use of cutting fluid, the
>blades seemed to last forever. The saw is still going strong after use
>on a Glasair, Glastar and several RV projects.
>
>Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY
>
>
>
--
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
Dear listers,
Any one can hold or reserve a place for anybody in the camp area, however,
the hidden hooker is "you must PAY for each day" from the beginning of the
reservation, not the actual time you use. The exception to this rule is
anyone who is a member of the "Century club" may reserve a camp place
anytime without paying for it. These people always reserve all of the good
places at least a month before the fly in. I live in Green Bay and usually
reserve a camp place a week before the fly in and it usually costs me at
least an extra 200 dollars for the flyin.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 8:52 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>
> The more I think about this, the more I want to explore the idea of an RV
> neighborhood in Camp Scholler.
>
> One possibility, it seems to me, is me going over on Friday this year
> (isntead of Sunday) and grab the permits and passes for those who want to
> camp in the same area and who are driving in or flying in later. Then I'd
> stake out all the spots and as folks show up, they can call me on the
> cellphone and I can meet them at the gate or registration area and give
> them
> the paperwork and the directions (and a ride if need be).
>
> Usually we put together the RV7 BBQ on Wednesday (now known as the RV7
> Family Reunion), but we could actually make it a week-long affair with a
> single spot in the middle of this neighborhood as the RV builders social
> center, culminated with the big get-together on Wednesday.
>
> Usually this spot is on 12th between Lindbergh and Elm, and I wouldn't
> expect it to be any different.
>
> Worth considering.
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Robin Marks wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
>
> Dear List,
>
> I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
> of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
> <http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
> interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
> already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
> Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
> the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
>
I know this bugs some listers, but if you go to the RV-List search
engine and search "EZ-pilot", you will get 70 messages with discussions
about this fine autopilot:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/search.html
A search on "Trio Avionics" yields 58 hits.
The archives are your friend! :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6, EZ-Pilot)
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Does anyone know this RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly@bresnan.net
A friend is looking at this RV6:
http://makeashorterlink.com/?N2B81286C
It was built in 1993 by Neil Vanderzanden and is now owned by John
Boyer of Columbia Falls, MT.
Does anyone know anything about this airplane? If so, please contact
me at: rv6fly@bresnan.net
Thanks, Bob Skinner
do not archive
--
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Pilot Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
Robin,
Consider a TRUTRAK. It will interface with the Navaid servo. You can order
it without the servo at a lower price. It is far superior to the TRIO imho.
Dick Martin
N233M RV8
Trutrak test pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 5:48 PM
Subject: RV-List: EZ Pilot Autopilot
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
>
> Dear List,
>
> I am unimpressed with my Navaid Autopilot and I am thinking
> of swapping it out with an EZ Pilot ( www.trioavionics.com
> <http://www.trioavionics.com/> ). It is that it is a direct replacement
> interfacing with the Navaid servo. Probably telling the list what it
> already knows. I will be hooking this up to a Garmin 250XL GPS/Com and a
> Garmin 296 GPS. I would like to get feedback from the list to make sure
> the EZ Pilot is a good unit worth installing.
>
>
> Robin
>
> RV-6A 240 hours
>
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message |
from valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
Chuck,
I have lived in Green Bay, 40 miles north of OSH all of my life and have
never seen hail large enough to damage your airplane, however it is possible
as is any other natural disaster. I would not worry about it.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233m
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 10, 2006 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question... (not processed: message
from valid l... (not processed: message from valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
>
>
> You know, I really want to fly my recently completed RV9A to Osh (The
> Mecca)
> this year but I'm concerned about possible hail damage. Can anyone help
> me
> get past that fear? I live in Central Coast California (Santa Maria) ---
> we
> never have hail here.
>
> do not archive
> Chuck Weyant
>
>> Matt: I've got an extra tent and I always get an extra camping spot for
>> the
>> Rv7 Barbecue.You're certainly welcome to occupy it during your stay.
>>
>> I also have a two bedroom tent and I doubt I'll have anyone going with me
>> this year.
>>
>> Bob Collins
>> St. Paul, MN.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Oshkosh Housing Question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
Right, that's why I say folks wold have to pay in advance. The thing with
camping is that you pay for the whole shebang and then the days you don't
use, you get refunded. But getting the spot wouldn't be the challenge (by
the way, the folks who get there early don't have the "right stuff" to camp
with the REAL campers! Out inthe field (g)
No the hard part is just getting a whole "street" individually staked out.
And if folks weren't arriving until, say, Tuesday or Wednesday, we wouldn't
be able to stake out a spot.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dick martin
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:07 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question...
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
>
> Dear listers,
> Any one can hold or reserve a place for anybody in the camp
> area, however,
> the hidden hooker is "you must PAY for each day" from the
> beginning of the
> reservation, not the actual time you use. The exception to
> this rule is
> anyone who is a member of the "Century club" may reserve a camp place
> anytime without paying for it. These people always reserve
> all of the good
> places at least a month before the fly in. I live in Green
> Bay and usually
> reserve a camp place a week before the fly in and it usually
> costs me at
> least an extra 200 dollars for the flyin.
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> the fast one
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 8:52 AM
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Oshkosh Housing Question...
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins"
> > --> <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
> >
> > The more I think about this, the more I want to explore the
> idea of an
> > RV neighborhood in Camp Scholler.
> >
> > One possibility, it seems to me, is me going over on Friday
> this year
> > (isntead of Sunday) and grab the permits and passes for
> those who want
> > to camp in the same area and who are driving in or flying in later.
> > Then I'd stake out all the spots and as folks show up, they
> can call
> > me on the cellphone and I can meet them at the gate or registration
> > area and give them the paperwork and the directions (and a ride if
> > need be).
> >
> > Usually we put together the RV7 BBQ on Wednesday (now known
> as the RV7
> > Family Reunion), but we could actually make it a week-long
> affair with
> > a single spot in the middle of this neighborhood as the RV builders
> > social center, culminated with the big get-together on Wednesday.
> >
> > Usually this spot is on 12th between Lindbergh and Elm, and
> I wouldn't
> > expect it to be any different.
> >
> > Worth considering.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
> >Snips are not precise enough for stock this thick.
Hmmm.. The way I learned about cutting was to drill the corners and use the
snips and cut it 1/8" off the actual line of the desired piece and then file
and Scotchbrite it down to its final shape and dimension.
Did I learn wrong?
Do not archive
Message 38
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| Subject: | Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@comcast.net
I'm late jumping into this but FWIW I've found that the best way to cut any small
sheet parts af any thickness is with an inexpensive band saw and the finest
toothed (if that's a word) blade you can find. 14 works, and a wood cutting
blade lasts almost as long as a metal cutting blade, at least in my $50 Craftsman
band saw, one of the best investments in tools I made at the start of my project.
--Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 161 hours and down for painting.
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>
> > >Snips are not precise enough for stock this thick.
>
>
> Hmmm.. The way I learned about cutting was to drill the corners and use the
> snips and cut it 1/8" off the actual line of the desired piece and then file
> and Scotchbrite it down to its final shape and dimension.
>
> Did I learn wrong?
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
I M (not so) H O - snips suck ! They do a lousy job - they
curl things up, they leave "jaggies" - that's why you have to
leave 1/8" so you have enough room to clean up afterward.
Definitely band saw - get as close as you can to your mark up
lines without touching the line (takes concentration). Finish
up with the bench sander (if needed) and then the scotchbrite
wheel.
g
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>
> > >Snips are not precise enough for stock this thick.
>
>
> Hmmm.. The way I learned about cutting was to drill the corners
> and use the
> snips and cut it 1/8" off the actual line of the desired piece
> and then file
> and Scotchbrite it down to its final shape and dimension.
>
> Did I learn wrong?
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 40
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| Subject: | EZ Pilot Autopilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
I actually did do my first search in the archives BEFORE requesting info
from the list. I guess my search skills match my autopilot skills.
Robin
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
If you use I think it is just bar soap on the band saw or hack saw blade
before cutting aluminum it reduces blade gumming. Most any wood cutting
blades like a table saw, skill saw, or router with carbide tips is what
many people that do a lot or heavy aluminum work use. I could not
believe it the first time I saw someone go at a piece of 3 inch angle
aluminum with a circular saw, but it works great. Eye protection is
essential as aluminum gets everywhere and the eye doc has a hard time
getting it out. Someone correct me if it is not soap as I just am not
sure I remember correctly.
HCRV6@comcast.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@comcast.net
>
>I'm late jumping into this but FWIW I've found that the best way to cut any small
sheet parts af any thickness is with an inexpensive band saw and the finest
toothed (if that's a word) blade you can find. 14 works, and a wood cutting
blade lasts almost as long as a metal cutting blade, at least in my $50 Craftsman
band saw, one of the best investments in tools I made at the start of my
project.
>
>--Harry Crosby
>RV-6 N16CX, 161 hours and down for painting.
>
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
>From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>>
>>
>>
>>>>Snips are not precise enough for stock this thick.
>>>>
>>>>
>>Hmmm.. The way I learned about cutting was to drill the corners and use the
>>snips and cut it 1/8" off the actual line of the desired piece and then file
>>and Scotchbrite it down to its final shape and dimension.
>>
>>Did I learn wrong?
>>
>>Do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to cut .040 stock |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
I too have found the hand jig saw to work very well on .040 and up to 0.25. I
tape the stock to
prevent the foot scratching the surface and find control excellent. Easy to cut
very close to the
line. I use a little Boelube on the blade before a cut.
On thinner stock I prefer the off cut wheel and die grinder.
I'd like to try a bandsaw but space does not permit.
Doug Gray
RV-6 Seat Back assy
PeterHunt1@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: PeterHunt1@aol.com
>
> I had excellent success using a hand jig saw (DeWALT) and a fine blade and
> moderate speed set on the trigger. Straight cuts or curves come out really
> nice if you have a steady hand. I taped the stock to a table with the portion
> to be removed hanging over the table edge. Cuts heavier stock just as well.
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