Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:00 AM - Radio Noise (Jordan Grant)
2. 06:11 AM - XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine (Jordan Grant)
3. 06:31 AM - Re: Radio Noise (Kevin Horton)
4. 06:40 AM - Re: need some advice here, guys- alternator for RV (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
5. 06:51 AM - Re: Radio Noise (Ken Beene)
6. 06:57 AM - Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine (Alex Peterson)
7. 07:09 AM - RV-4 Center Radio Console (Kosta Lewis)
8. 08:53 AM - Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (chaztuna@adelphia.net)
9. 09:17 AM - Garmin avionics trays ()
10. 10:03 AM - Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (Ron Lee)
11. 10:21 AM - Re: RV-4 Center Radio Console (Paul Besing)
12. 11:45 AM - Re: Radio Noise (Steve Sampson)
13. 12:04 PM - Re: Radio Noise (Jeff Point)
14. 02:53 PM - Re: Garmin avionics trays (Greg Young)
15. 02:59 PM - Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (sportav8r@aol.com)
16. 03:45 PM - Re: Radio Noise (Jordan Grant)
17. 05:29 PM - Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (Ed Bundy)
18. 05:39 PM - Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (james frierson)
19. 06:45 PM - Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (sportav8r@AOL.COM)
20. 07:31 PM - Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (Charlie England)
21. 08:20 PM - Need Fuel totalizer with Dynon EMS-D10? (Paul Besing)
22. 09:16 PM - Re: Garmin avionics trays (Tim Olson)
23. 10:00 PM - Instrument install/annunciators (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
24. 10:47 PM - melting the blue plastic from the skin (Dan)
25. 11:40 PM - Re: melting the blue plastic from the skin (Mickey Coggins)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Listers:
I have a radio noise problem. I've checked the archives, and I can't
find a similar problem having been discussed on the RV list or the
AeroElectric list. Here are the symptoms:
1) When I turn on the master switch, I get noise in my headset that
emanates from the VHF radio. I know its the VHF radio because the noise
volume can be controlled with the volume knob on the radio. The radio is
an Apollo GX-60. The noise sounds exactly like the squelch is turned on
- just some static. The noise is usually constant, but sometimes goes
intermittent. The radio frequency does not matter.
2) I have an ACS2002 engine monitor. The noise is correlated to the
engine monitor's function. The noise will go away (or go to
intermittent) when I start the ACS2002 in calibration mode. When I
return to normal mode, the noise is back. If I pull the fuse for the
ACS, the noise goes away entirely and does not come back. If I pull the
audo connection d-sub from the back of the ACS screen, there is no
change at all - still noisy.
3) This is all with the engine OFF, keyswitch OFF, every other accessory
turned off.
I have 2 theories, based on the very little avionics knowledge that I have.
Theory A) Some sensor on the ACS is causing RF noise. I don't know which
one - I may have to start disconnecting them one at a time (on my back,
under the panel) to try and isolate.
Theory B) My antenna installation is screwed up somehow. I have a 45
bent whip antenna, standard from Aircraft Spruce, installed on the belly
under the pilot's seat. Standard coax runs from radio to antenna. Center
conductor terminated with a ring terminal and secured onto antenna.
Outer braided conducter terminated at a ring terminal and screwed into a
nutplate on the structure for ground. Any way to test that this is
normal/ok/etc?
Thanks to anyone that might have a suggestion,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 N198G
Done - except for last minute problems and first flight!
Message 2
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| Subject: | XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Listers:
I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I just did the
first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried it again yesterday. Here
are the symptoms:
1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow Performance
Fuel Injection, Lightspeed Plasma II+ electronic ignition on the top
(right), impulse-coupled mag on the bottom (left), running standard
100LL. Constant speed prop.
2) Starts up just fine, but runs very rough. Black smoke comes out upon
start. Will run above 1000 rpm, but will quit if I try to idle less than
1000. Runs better when I open the throttle - I got it up to about 1500
rpm when test running, so far. When running, makes a lot of 'popping'
sounds - almost like little backfires, I guess. I'm not smart enough on
engines to know what the sound means.
3) Makes more 'popping' sounds when running on the mag - runs a little
bit (noticeably) better on the electronic ignition, but still rough.
4) The engine was run at the factor before I got it and I have not
changed any settings on the ignition/mags/fuel injection since I got it.
My only theory right now, based on an archive search of the RV list, is
that the idle mixture might be too rich on the Airflow Perfomance. Do
these symptoms sound consistent with that problem? I'm disinclined to
think its an ignition/timing problem, since both ignition systems came
set up by Aerosport and neither one is significantly better than the
other in running the engine.
Thanks for any help you might have,
Jordan Grant
RV-6
Finally done, if the engine would behave...
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 15 Jan 2006, at 08:59, Jordan Grant wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers:
> I have a radio noise problem. I've checked the archives, and I
> can't
> find a similar problem having been discussed on the RV list or the
> AeroElectric list. Here are the symptoms:
>
> 1) When I turn on the master switch, I get noise in my headset that
> emanates from the VHF radio. I know its the VHF radio because the
> noise
> volume can be controlled with the volume knob on the radio. The
> radio is
> an Apollo GX-60. The noise sounds exactly like the squelch is
> turned on
> - just some static. The noise is usually constant, but sometimes goes
> intermittent. The radio frequency does not matter.
>
> 2) I have an ACS2002 engine monitor. The noise is correlated to the
> engine monitor's function. The noise will go away (or go to
> intermittent) when I start the ACS2002 in calibration mode. When I
> return to normal mode, the noise is back. If I pull the fuse for the
> ACS, the noise goes away entirely and does not come back. If I pull
> the
> audo connection d-sub from the back of the ACS screen, there is no
> change at all - still noisy.
>
> 3) This is all with the engine OFF, keyswitch OFF, every other
> accessory
> turned off.
>
> I have 2 theories, based on the very little avionics knowledge that
> I have.
> Theory A) Some sensor on the ACS is causing RF noise. I don't know
> which
> one - I may have to start disconnecting them one at a time (on my
> back,
> under the panel) to try and isolate.
> Theory B) My antenna installation is screwed up somehow. I have a 45
> bent whip antenna, standard from Aircraft Spruce, installed on the
> belly
> under the pilot's seat. Standard coax runs from radio to antenna.
> Center
> conductor terminated with a ring terminal and secured onto antenna.
> Outer braided conducter terminated at a ring terminal and screwed
> into a
> nutplate on the structure for ground. Any way to test that this is
> normal/ok/etc?
>
> Thanks to anyone that might have a suggestion,
It might be instructive to see if you hear the noise in a handheld
radio. That might help figure out whether it is a radiated noise
problem, or something that is conducted through the wiriing or
airframe. If the handheld hears the noise, then it must be radiated
noise from the engine monitor or its sensors. If the handheld
doesn't hear the noise, then it has to be transmitted through the
power lines or grounds. I think.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: need some advice here, guys- alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
sportav8r@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>
>Armed with info gleaned from the AeroElectric list and elsewhere on the web, I
went alternator-shopping at the local auto parts stores today, to see how close
I could get to the recommended 70 A machine that goes by part number Lester
13353 or NipponDenso 121000-346. If I had not had the additional tidbit that
it fits a '93 Dodge Ramcharger 5.2 liter pickup, I think the parts counter clerks
would have been helpless to assist me. The choices that came up "in stock"
were limited to one: the Dodge's optional 90 amp externally-regulated machine
(reman) with a serpentine pulley, in a 125mm case. My quest for a VR-166 Ford
regulator also ended with a substitute, the Sorensen VR-301.
>
>The alternator comes with its own computer-generated test output graph and data
table, indicating it is capable of 126 amps at 6000 rpm, and draws 5.72 amps
of field current at that output. It seems to weigh about 11 lbs on the bathroom
scales. Already I'm thinking this might be more of a fire-breathing machine
than I should bolt to my RV, even if it's a physical fit, which I think it
will be. I'm not sure the electronic regulator will necessarily "handle" it,
but not sure why it wouldn't. I don't need anywhere near the output this alternator
is capable of, and I don't want my 5 amp field breaker nuisance-tripping
because the field happens to want near that amount (no idea how linear the field
current vs output curve might be, so no way to know field current at closer
to 50-60 amps, for example.)
>
>Finally, I'm unsure how easily the V-pulley from my original Van's 35 A machine
will slip onto the shaft of the new alternator. Any takers on that one? When
I make the swap, I'd like to have everything go smoothly with a minimum of
downtime. Basically, I'd like some reassurance that this is worth trying. I
can always take it back and order the Dodge 70 amp alternator; same physical size,
and ironically more money.
>
>Advice appreciated, friends. Thanks.
>
>-Bill Boyd RV-6A O-320 FP
>
>
Bill,
I am running Vans little honda 35 amp units and I have never had it more than Half
loaded. Two of those cheapie landing lights
I do have low drain equipment as well as LED nav lights from Bill Dube.
You might double check your loads and refigure your needs... two others
based here also have small alternators similar to mine. I use one of
those orange Odyssey batteries, I think it is a 680... I have plenty of
juice to start and run all my stuff...
Phil in Illinois
do not archive
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Beene" <kbeene@citilink.com>
Grant,
This sounds like a RFI problem. I saw this problem with an engine monitor
on a friend's airplane. He thought he had a radio problem because he
couldn't hear the tower more than 10 miles out. The RFI was desensitizing
this receiver. He didn't have the engine monitor on a switch so he had not
tried to turn it off. With my handheld radio it was easy to identify the
source.
The noise is usually generated by the CPU clock in the computer (try putting
your radio next to your home computer). After we removed the fuse on the
ACS, the radio worked properly. Some electronics designers do not worry
about electromagnetic compatibility (EMC).
He contacted ACS and they sent some updated cables or some additional
shielding to reduce the problem. You should avoid running the cables from
the radio and engine monitor parallel to each other. These problems are
best fixed during the design with RF bypass capacitors and RF chokes
(torids) around the signals and power leads before they exit a properly
shielded enclosure.
Ken
RV-6A N94kb
RV-4 under construction
> Listers:
> I have a radio noise problem. I've checked the archives, and I can't
> find a similar problem having been discussed on the RV list or the
> AeroElectric list. Here are the symptoms:
>
> 1) When I turn on the master switch, I get noise in my headset that
> emanates from the VHF radio. I know its the VHF radio because the noise
> volume can be controlled with the volume knob on the radio. The radio is
> an Apollo GX-60. The noise sounds exactly like the squelch is turned on
> - just some static. The noise is usually constant, but sometimes goes
> intermittent. The radio frequency does not matter.
Message 6
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| Subject: | XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers:
> I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I
> just did the first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried
> it again yesterday. Here are the symptoms:
> 1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow
> Performance Fuel Injection,
SNIP
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6
> Finally done, if the engine would behave...
Jordan, the book which comes with the Airflow Performance unit is very
thorough in this regard. You are probably correct in guessing that the idle
mixture is way too rich. Refer to the book. I believe that when Bart runs
the engine, he uses a carb and not the injection system.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 7
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| Subject: | RV-4 Center Radio Console |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
Suzie Q has a center console that I would not know what to do without.
It houses the com radio, transponder, intercom, fuel pressure and fuel
level gauges. It also holds the master radio switch and all radio
breakers. Above all that is my map pocket. It is canted up to face
towards the pilot. (Many I see are just straight up and down.) As you
sit in the front cockpit, the radio appears just below the lower edge of
the panel and the transponder just below that. I have the radio wired to
the stick grip so I can flip-flop channels and select the stand-by
channel without touching the radio. The transponder has an ident button
on the stick. One rarely looks at the intercom and fuel gauges are just
for reference anyway.
Too much looking down? No. One should limit their "looking down",
wherever that is, to about five seconds anyway, regardless what you are
doing.
This whole unit is held in place by three screws and four bolts and
takes about 10 minutes to remove and comes out as a complete unit; easy
for accessing the battery if needed. I have a charging receptacle for
charging the battery without removing it. (I know: you are suppose to
remove the battery before charging it. Just like you always do in your
car...)
I spent a lot of time on the design of my panels (using the PBC method:
poster board cut-outs) and, having flown behind them for many hours,
would not change a thing. I may put a Dynon in some day, but also have
the center of the main panel as a suspended removable sub-panel that I
can easily remove and modify if I find the need.
I can try to put pictures on photo share if I can figure out how that is
done if anyone wants to see it. Or forward them to an email address if
that works better.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
935 hours
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
Cc: Oldsfolks@aol.com
--> RV-List message posted by: chaztuna@adelphia.net
Bob,
Some of us are using heated seats in our RVs. This makes use of a 60 amp alternator
useful. Also, running an alternator for extended periods close to it's rated
power will tend to shorten it's life. The diodes in the rectifier will be
the items to fail.
I agree with George (gmcjetpilot) that operating an alternator at 50% of rated
load will greatly extend it's life.
Charlie Kuss
---- Oldsfolks@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
>
> What in the world are you hauling in your RV ???? If you have an arc
> welder,then you might need that many amps !!! otherwise come down to earth and
> get a proper sized alternator. I can't imagine anyone needing more than 45
amp
> output in an RV.
> If others can show that more is needed,then do so.
> I have flown with radios,xpndr,strobe/nav lights and 130 watt landing lights
> on and didn't need more than 35 amps,which my alternaror puts out.
> I use a Toyota alternator with 4" pulley.
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> Charleston,Arkansas
> Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Garmin avionics trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: <erichweaver@cox.net>
In researching my panel, I occcasionally have come across the gripe that the Garmin
avionics trays were non-standard in that they were 6.3 inches wide instead
of 6.25, and thus required the use of washers if installed with other non-Garmin
components. I recently purchased the Garmin SL-40 transceiver and GTX-327
transponder. Measured the trays, and both were 6.25, so it appears that this
issue has been taken care of. Thought I would pass this along to others contemplating
panel choices.
regards
Erich Weaver
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>Bob,
> Some of us are using heated seats in our RVs.
Well now aren't some of us so special that we need heated tushie warmers.
And you call yourself an RV pilot. Hah!
Ron Lee
Pst.. don't tell anyone I asked but where did you get those seat warmers?
ronlee@pcisys.net
Do not archive please
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Center Radio Console |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
The photos would be great, Mike if you have the
chance. I've got a preliminary design that requires
me to spend much more money to make it fit (new slim
radios, 2 dynons, etc).
Paul Besing
--- Kosta Lewis <mikel@dimensional.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis"
> <mikel@dimensional.com>
>
> Suzie Q has a center console that I would not know
> what to do without.
> It houses the com radio, transponder, intercom, fuel
> pressure and fuel
> level gauges. It also holds the master radio switch
> and all radio
> breakers. Above all that is my map pocket. It is
> canted up to face
> towards the pilot. (Many I see are just straight up
> and down.) As you
> sit in the front cockpit, the radio appears just
> below the lower edge of
> the panel and the transponder just below that. I
> have the radio wired to
> the stick grip so I can flip-flop channels and
> select the stand-by
> channel without touching the radio. The transponder
> has an ident button
> on the stick. One rarely looks at the intercom and
> fuel gauges are just
> for reference anyway.
>
> Too much looking down? No. One should limit their
> "looking down",
> wherever that is, to about five seconds anyway,
> regardless what you are
> doing.
>
> This whole unit is held in place by three screws and
> four bolts and
> takes about 10 minutes to remove and comes out as a
> complete unit; easy
> for accessing the battery if needed. I have a
> charging receptacle for
> charging the battery without removing it. (I know:
> you are suppose to
> remove the battery before charging it. Just like you
> always do in your
> car...)
>
> I spent a lot of time on the design of my panels
> (using the PBC method:
> poster board cut-outs) and, having flown behind them
> for many hours,
> would not change a thing. I may put a Dynon in some
> day, but also have
> the center of the main panel as a suspended
> removable sub-panel that I
> can easily remove and modify if I find the need.
>
> I can try to put pictures on photo share if I can
> figure out how that is
> done if anyone wants to see it. Or forward them to
> an email address if
> that works better.
>
> Michael
> RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> 935 hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Sampson" <SSampson.SLN21@london.edu>
Jordan - be sure the antenna is bolted on tight with a good attachment of
the screen to the ground plane. Jus a thought, Steve.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 1:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Radio Noise
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers:
> I have a radio noise problem. I've checked the archives, and I can't
> find a similar problem having been discussed on the RV list or the
> AeroElectric list. Here are the symptoms:
>
> 1) When I turn on the master switch, I get noise in my headset that
> emanates from the VHF radio. I know its the VHF radio because the noise
> volume can be controlled with the volume knob on the radio. The radio is
> an Apollo GX-60. The noise sounds exactly like the squelch is turned on
> - just some static. The noise is usually constant, but sometimes goes
> intermittent. The radio frequency does not matter.
>
> 2) I have an ACS2002 engine monitor. The noise is correlated to the
> engine monitor's function. The noise will go away (or go to
> intermittent) when I start the ACS2002 in calibration mode. When I
> return to normal mode, the noise is back. If I pull the fuse for the
> ACS, the noise goes away entirely and does not come back. If I pull the
> audo connection d-sub from the back of the ACS screen, there is no
> change at all - still noisy.
>
> 3) This is all with the engine OFF, keyswitch OFF, every other accessory
> turned off.
>
> I have 2 theories, based on the very little avionics knowledge that I
> have.
> Theory A) Some sensor on the ACS is causing RF noise. I don't know which
> one - I may have to start disconnecting them one at a time (on my back,
> under the panel) to try and isolate.
> Theory B) My antenna installation is screwed up somehow. I have a 45
> bent whip antenna, standard from Aircraft Spruce, installed on the belly
> under the pilot's seat. Standard coax runs from radio to antenna. Center
> conductor terminated with a ring terminal and secured onto antenna.
> Outer braided conducter terminated at a ring terminal and screwed into a
> nutplate on the structure for ground. Any way to test that this is
> normal/ok/etc?
>
> Thanks to anyone that might have a suggestion,
>
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 N198G
> Done - except for last minute problems and first flight!
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
> This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System
> on behalf of the London Business School community.
> For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email
> ______________________________________________________________________
>
>
> --
> 14/01/2006
>
>
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
One thing to keep in mind while troubleshooting radio noise on the
ground- If you are running off ships power with no charger or power
supply attached, then you are likely at less than the required voltage
for the radio equipment (including the noise-filtering apparatus) to
work properly. With the engine running and the alternator alternating,
your system voltage is around 14V (give or take .5) but with a less than
fully charged battery, with a load, it is down closer to 12V. For
example, the DRE244 intercom (a great unit BTW) requires 12.5V for it's
noise filtering stuff to work, and I had all sorts of noise problems
(mostly EFI related from the Dynon D-10) until I figured this out. I
put a charger on the battery, brought the voltage up and 90% of my noise
problems disappeared instantly. The engine noise took care of the
reamining 10% ;)
Try connecting a battery charger to your battery to bring the voltage
up, ot try it with the engine (and alternator) running.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Garmin avionics trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
The issue, at least my experience, was that the PS Engineering tray
(PS7000 = SL15) was wider that the "real" UPSAT/Garmin units (SL-30,
SL-70, GX-60 for me) and necessitated spacers for the non-PS units. The
mounting holes spacing (fore-aft) is not the same either but that's
really minor. I don't think the Garmin audio panel (GMA340??) is made by
PS Engineering so it may not have the same issue.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <erichweaver@cox.net>
>
> In researching my panel, I occcasionally have come across the
> gripe that the Garmin avionics trays were non-standard in
> that they were 6.3 inches wide instead of 6.25, and thus
> required the use of washers if installed with other
> non-Garmin components. I recently purchased the Garmin SL-40
> transceiver and GTX-327 transponder. Measured the trays, and
> both were 6.25, so it appears that this issue has been taken
> care of. Thought I would pass this along to others
> contemplating panel choices.
>
> regards
>
> Erich Weaver
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Bob-
My experience with the 35 amp Van's machine is that I get a LV warn light (setpoint
12.5V) after a minute or two of landing lights on in the pattern (2x55 watts),
so I'm not that impressed with its performance. The supplied regulator
from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe 1.5 hz) intensity of my radio
dial lights from day one (7 years now), so I'm ready for a change. The new
and improved electrical system is designed for heated seats and heated pitot,
also.
I came home with the alternator I did b/c it was the only ER alternator in stock
that came close to matching the numbers I went in looking for. If there is
a weight penalty for the extra amps, I'll take it back and wait for an ordered
unit to come in. George has given me some good numbers to track down, but I'm
not ready to abandon the external regualtion philosophy, so that may limit my
search.
-BB
-----Original Message-----
From: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Sent: Sat, 14 Jan 2006 22:13:28 EST
Subject: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
What in the world are you hauling in your RV ???? If you have an arc
welder,then you might need that many amps !!! otherwise come down to earth and
get a proper sized alternator. I can't imagine anyone needing more than 45 amp
output in an RV.
If others can show that more is needed,then do so.
I have flown with radios,xpndr,strobe/nav lights and 130 watt landing lights
on and didn't need more than 35 amps,which my alternaror puts out.
I use a Toyota alternator with 4" pulley.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Jeff:
I went troubleshooting today and, of course, there was no trouble! I
just received my super-duper Odyssey battery charger the other day, and
I charged up the battery overnight. This afternoon, there was no noise
on my radio! I think that may have been the problem - just lowish
voltage on the battery. As part of my troubleshooting, I borrowed a
handheld VHF radio and waved it around inside the cockpit. It picked up
a lot of noise! The screen on the ACS2002 seemed to be radiating a fair
amount of it. However, the GX60 was quiet.
If it happens again with a fully charged battery or the alternator
running, I'll get suspicious. Until then, I'm considering it to not be a
problem. I'm glad I put the question out there on the RV List, though -
hopefully the next guy that runs into this will search the archives and
find out the answer.
Thanks a lot to everyone that responded,
Jordan Grant
RV-6 N198G
Ready to fly if only my engine would run...
Jeff Point wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
>One thing to keep in mind while troubleshooting radio noise on the
>ground- If you are running off ships power with no charger or power
>supply attached, then you are likely at less than the required voltage
>for the radio equipment (including the noise-filtering apparatus) to
>work properly. With the engine running and the alternator alternating,
>your system voltage is around 14V (give or take .5) but with a less than
>fully charged battery, with a load, it is down closer to 12V. For
>example, the DRE244 intercom (a great unit BTW) requires 12.5V for it's
>noise filtering stuff to work, and I had all sorts of noise problems
>(mostly EFI related from the Dynon D-10) until I figured this out. I
>put a charger on the battery, brought the voltage up and 90% of my noise
>problems disappeared instantly. The engine noise took care of the
>reamining 10% ;)
>
>Try connecting a battery charger to your battery to bring the voltage
>up, ot try it with the engine (and alternator) running.
>
>Jeff Point
>RV-6
>Milwaukee
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
I also had the pulsating radio lights (not to mention a constant ammeter
oscillation) with the solid state regulator from Van's. It never has caused
a problem in 9 years, but while I was under the panel doing an avionics
upgrade I decided to put in a Ford VR166 (which is not current, but there is
a cross-ref part) that I bought for $12.99 at Autozone. No more pulsating,
no more ammeter oscillations.
I also have the 35a alternator, but it never gets below 13.5V at idle.
Maybe your VR is causing that problem too.
Ed Bundy
RV6a - just celebrated its 9th birthday!
>My experience with the 35 amp Van's machine is that I get a LV warn light
(setpoint 12.5V) after a minute or two of landing lights on in the pattern
(2x55 watts), so I'm not that impressed with its performance. The supplied
regulator from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe 1.5 hz)
intensity of my radio dial lights from day one (7 years now), so I'm ready
for a change. The new and improved electrical system is designed for heated
seats and heated pitot, also.
--
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
The supplied regulator from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe
1.5 hz) intensity of my radio dial lights from day one (7 years now),>_-
I had the same problem with my Van's adjustable regulator but after
searching the archives I found the answer. Bad connection or ground. Mine
was a bad connection at the master switch. Once I fixed that the pulsing
went away. As for the low voltage issue I get the same thing with all the
lights on in the pattern <2000rpm.
Scott
============================================================
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
Thanks, Ed. that's encouraging news. I have a new VR-301 regualtor to be installed,
which a search of the archives tells me is a valid substitute and blessed
by Bob himself.
I honestly haven't run an amp budget for my proposed upgrades to the RV, but I
have a feeling the heated seats and heated pitot might put a strain on the old
Honda 35 amp machine. Besides, at 550 hrs it's getting long in the tooth! BTW,
my bus voltage is about 14.9 with no load; kinda high.
A review of the Vicic.com.tw site, inputting all crossing #'s for ER/IF alternators
from a site where they make the casings (Google hits) confirms the lack of
availability of under-90 amp machines with external regulation. I might be
better off keeping the one I bought this weekend, unless Niagra or Landoll are
considered as vendors, which I need to do.
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Ed Bundy <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
Sent: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 18:27:56 -0700
Subject: RE: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
I also had the pulsating radio lights (not to mention a constant ammeter
oscillation) with the solid state regulator from Van's. It never has caused
a problem in 9 years, but while I was under the panel doing an avionics
upgrade I decided to put in a Ford VR166 (which is not current, but there is
a cross-ref part) that I bought for $12.99 at Autozone. No more pulsating,
no more ammeter oscillations.
I also have the 35a alternator, but it never gets below 13.5V at idle.
Maybe your VR is causing that problem too.
Ed Bundy
RV6a - just celebrated its 9th birthday!
>My experience with the 35 amp Van's machine is that I get a LV warn light
(setpoint 12.5V) after a minute or two of landing lights on in the pattern
(2x55 watts), so I'm not that impressed with its performance. The supplied
regulator from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe 1.5 hz)
intensity of my radio dial lights from day one (7 years now), so I'm ready
for a change. The new and improved electrical system is designed for heated
seats and heated pitot, also.
--
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
How old is your battery, & is it known to be in good shape?
(surrender to the inevitable. get an ir)
sportav8r@AOL.COM wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>
>Thanks, Ed. that's encouraging news. I have a new VR-301 regualtor to be installed,
which a search of the archives tells me is a valid substitute and blessed
by Bob himself.
>
>I honestly haven't run an amp budget for my proposed upgrades to the RV, but I
have a feeling the heated seats and heated pitot might put a strain on the old
Honda 35 amp machine. Besides, at 550 hrs it's getting long in the tooth!
BTW, my bus voltage is about 14.9 with no load; kinda high.
>
>A review of the Vicic.com.tw site, inputting all crossing #'s for ER/IF alternators
from a site where they make the casings (Google hits) confirms the lack
of availability of under-90 amp machines with external regulation. I might be
better off keeping the one I bought this weekend, unless Niagra or Landoll are
considered as vendors, which I need to do.
>
>-Bill
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ed Bundy <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 18:27:56 -0700
>Subject: RE: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
>
>I also had the pulsating radio lights (not to mention a constant ammeter
>oscillation) with the solid state regulator from Van's. It never has caused
>a problem in 9 years, but while I was under the panel doing an avionics
>upgrade I decided to put in a Ford VR166 (which is not current, but there is
>a cross-ref part) that I bought for $12.99 at Autozone. No more pulsating,
>no more ammeter oscillations.
>
>I also have the 35a alternator, but it never gets below 13.5V at idle.
>Maybe your VR is causing that problem too.
>
>Ed Bundy
>RV6a - just celebrated its 9th birthday!
>
>
>
>>My experience with the 35 amp Van's machine is that I get a LV warn light
>>
>>
>(setpoint 12.5V) after a minute or two of landing lights on in the pattern
>(2x55 watts), so I'm not that impressed with its performance. The supplied
>regulator from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe 1.5 hz)
>intensity of my radio dial lights from day one (7 years now), so I'm ready
>for a change. The new and improved electrical system is designed for heated
>seats and heated pitot, also.
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Need Fuel totalizer with Dynon EMS-D10? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Anyone flying with the EMS-D10? I know it has fuel
calculations in it. Question for those flying, would
you want a separate fuel totalizer, i.e. fuelchek,
Elect International, etc?
Are you happy with the Dynon's fuel capabilities?
Thanks in advance.
Paul Besing
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin avionics trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I can verify that it's not "fixed"...doubt that it ever will be
except that maybe new models coming out will be more standardized.
My PS Engineering 8000, GNS480, SL-30, and GTX330 Transponder
had at least one or two of them that were 6.3 while
the others were 6.25. All of it was new this year.
Nothing was a major problem. The biggest problem I had, which
is a tip any GNS480 buyer should remember, is make sure you
mount your GNS480 tray at least flush with the face of your
panel, if not out a couple thousandths. The GNS 480 is
notorious for not seating all the way into it's tray, and your
serial communications won't work. I tried for 2 nights to
get my stuff to talk, and after talking to Stark and getting
that tip, I moved my tray aft a tad and then pushed the radio
in as hard as I could...problem solved.
Tim Olson -- RV-10
Greg Young wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>
> The issue, at least my experience, was that the PS Engineering tray
> (PS7000 = SL15) was wider that the "real" UPSAT/Garmin units (SL-30,
> SL-70, GX-60 for me) and necessitated spacers for the non-PS units. The
> mounting holes spacing (fore-aft) is not the same either but that's
> really minor. I don't think the Garmin audio panel (GMA340??) is made by
> PS Engineering so it may not have the same issue.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
> Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: <erichweaver@cox.net>
>>
>>In researching my panel, I occcasionally have come across the
>>gripe that the Garmin avionics trays were non-standard in
>>that they were 6.3 inches wide instead of 6.25, and thus
>>required the use of washers if installed with other
>>non-Garmin components. I recently purchased the Garmin SL-40
>>transceiver and GTX-327 transponder. Measured the trays, and
>>both were 6.25, so it appears that this issue has been taken
>>care of. Thought I would pass this along to others
>>contemplating panel choices.
>>
>>regards
>>
>>Erich Weaver
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Instrument install/annunciators |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Those who have been here already...when you put the steam gauges in your
panel, how do you fit the ones with the knobs sticking out of one corner?
For the (United Instruments) altimeter it looks like I won't have a choice
and will have to hog out some of the corner of the panel where the knob goes
(big bump in the case under the knob). However, for the MD200 OBS (VOR/ILS
indicator) and the 2 inch G meter (Falcon Gauge) the knobs have small posts
that would likely fit through the screw hole if the knob were removed before
installing the gauge. Can the knobs on these gauges be removed prior to
installing the gauge and then re-attached afterwords? Or am I just going to
have to make a small slot between the cutout and the screw hole? Also, what
exactly is the bit size used to drill these screw holes? #6 screws???
Annunciator lights, I'd like to find some square ones with the colored
plastic and engraved text that shows what subsystem is having a problem
(commercial airline pilots know them well). I have had some great input
from an RV-6A pilot who rolled his own. I've perused the web quite a while
and haven't found much that might work for my application (mostly round
lampholders with colored lenses but you couldn't really engrave them with
text like I'm wanting). Any suggestions on this one? The only other option
I can see is to use the round lampholders and have engraved text underneath
each one with the subsystem being annunciated. Not the optimum solution but
given what I've found so far, looking more and more viable all the time
(probably simpler and quicker too). Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Gonna fly this spring!!!
Message 24
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| Subject: | melting the blue plastic from the skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
OK, I'm ready to cut away the blue plastic to dimple the skin, As I've seen most
people use a cheep solder iron, but when I used it on my practice kit it left
a line mark which doesn't appear to rub out ?
I suppose I may have too much pressure. and I sure when it gets painted no one
will notice,,,, or will I ?
Dan
-8 HS
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
I wouldn't bother. I spent a lot of time doing this with
a soldering iron, and then a couple of weeks later I learned
from Van's that leaving the plastic on is a bad idea. It
seems some moisture can get trapped under there and cause
corrosion.
Dan wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
>
> OK, I'm ready to cut away the blue plastic to dimple the skin, As I've seen most
people use a cheep solder iron, but when I used it on my practice kit it left
a line mark which doesn't appear to rub out ?
> I suppose I may have too much pressure. and I sure when it gets painted no
one will notice,,,, or will I ?
>
> Dan
> -8 HS
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
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