Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:08 AM - Re: melting the blue plastic from the skin (RAS)
2. 05:27 AM - Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (sportav8r@aol.com)
3. 05:27 AM - Re: Instrument install/annunciators (Rene Felker)
4. 06:12 AM - Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine (Rhonda Bewley)
5. 06:47 AM - Re: Need Fuel totalizer with Dynon EMS-D10? (jacklockamy)
6. 06:59 AM - Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (Charlie England)
7. 07:11 AM - Re: melting the blue plastic from the skin (Charlie England)
8. 07:54 AM - Re: melting the blue plastic from the skin (Dan Beadle)
9. 08:18 AM - Re: melting the blue plastic from the skin (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
10. 08:57 AM - Re: Garmin avionics trays (Gerry Filby)
11. 09:57 AM - Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (sportav8r@aol.com)
12. 10:01 AM - Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (sportav8r@aol.com)
13. 10:54 AM - Re: Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV (Charlie England)
14. 02:28 PM - Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine (Jordan Grant)
15. 02:31 PM - Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine (Jordan Grant)
16. 02:54 PM - Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
17. 03:05 PM - Radio Noise w/ Engine Monitor ACS2002 ACS2003 (Jordan Grant)
18. 03:37 PM - Re: Radio Noise w/ Engine Monitor ACS2002 ACS2003 (Dan Checkoway)
19. 05:21 PM - Re: Need Fuel totalizer with Dynon EMS-D10? (Larry Bowen)
20. 06:48 PM - Re: Garmin avionics trays (Darwin N. Barrie)
21. 08:18 PM - Vans RV Orndorff Construction Tapes for sale (tomvelvick)
22. 08:19 PM - Calculating %HP (Amit Dagan)
23. 08:26 PM - Re: Calculating %HP (Mark Burns)
24. 08:30 PM - Re: Calculating %HP (Mark Burns)
25. 09:02 PM - Newbie fluting question (David Karlsberg)
26. 09:25 PM - Re: Newbie fluting question (DonVS)
27. 09:30 PM - Re: Newbie fluting question (Paul Trotter)
28. 09:50 PM - RV6 wing tips for sale (Paul Rice)
29. 09:53 PM - RV6 Fuselage Jig Wanted. (Paul Rice)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Hi All,
just to throw a bit of a spanner into the works; what way do the temps of
the soldering iron compare to the melting point of aluminum?
I always remove the blue plastic and dip the parts into a tank of alodine.
Instant protection and it shows when scratched. the blue plastic can be
difficult to remove when left for a few years, never mind corrosion.
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 7:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: melting the blue plastic from the skin
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> I wouldn't bother. I spent a lot of time doing this with
> a soldering iron, and then a couple of weeks later I learned
> from Van's that leaving the plastic on is a bad idea. It
> seems some moisture can get trapped under there and cause
> corrosion.
>
> Dan wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
>>
>> OK, I'm ready to cut away the blue plastic to dimple the skin, As I've
>> seen most people use a cheep solder iron, but when I used it on my
>> practice kit it left a line mark which doesn't appear to rub out ?
>> I suppose I may have too much pressure. and I sure when it gets
>> painted no one will notice,,,, or will I ?
>>
>> Dan
>> -8 HS
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 finishing
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
I'll admit to keeping my batteries too long, but I'm on my second Odyssey and third
battery since completion in 1998. All have held up well as far as I know,
despite the higher than expected voltage flogging. Battery age has never affected
these little issues at all; as others have said, a sub-par regualtor or
more likely a high ohmic connection in the feedback loop are prime suspects.
I'll consider an IR when Bob N. has figured out an external OV protection scheme
that stands up in the lab; until then, my soon to be 20 kilobuck avionics suite
will enjoy a crowbar's constant oversight, thank you very much :-)
-Stormy
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 21:30:29 -0600
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
How old is your battery, & is it known to be in good shape?
(surrender to the inevitable. get an ir)
sportav8r@AOL.COM wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>
>Thanks, Ed. that's encouraging news. I have a new VR-301 regualtor to be
installed, which a search of the archives tells me is a valid substitute and
blessed by Bob himself.
>
>I honestly haven't run an amp budget for my proposed upgrades to the RV, but I
have a feeling the heated seats and heated pitot might put a strain on the old
Honda 35 amp machine. Besides, at 550 hrs it's getting long in the tooth! BTW,
my bus voltage is about 14.9 with no load; kinda high.
>
>A review of the Vicic.com.tw site, inputting all crossing #'s for ER/IF
alternators from a site where they make the casings (Google hits) confirms the
lack of availability of under-90 amp machines with external regulation. I might
be better off keeping the one I bought this weekend, unless Niagra or Landoll
are considered as vendors, which I need to do.
>
>-Bill
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Ed Bundy <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Sent: Sun, 15 Jan 2006 18:27:56 -0700
>Subject: RE: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
>
>I also had the pulsating radio lights (not to mention a constant ammeter
>oscillation) with the solid state regulator from Van's. It never has caused
>a problem in 9 years, but while I was under the panel doing an avionics
>upgrade I decided to put in a Ford VR166 (which is not current, but there is
>a cross-ref part) that I bought for $12.99 at Autozone. No more pulsating,
>no more ammeter oscillations.
>
>I also have the 35a alternator, but it never gets below 13.5V at idle.
>Maybe your VR is causing that problem too.
>
>Ed Bundy
>RV6a - just celebrated its 9th birthday!
>
>
>
>>My experience with the 35 amp Van's machine is that I get a LV warn light
>>
>>
>(setpoint 12.5V) after a minute or two of landing lights on in the pattern
>(2x55 watts), so I'm not that impressed with its performance. The supplied
>regulator from Van's has also treated me to pulsating (maybe 1.5 hz)
>intensity of my radio dial lights from day one (7 years now), so I'm ready
>for a change. The new and improved electrical system is designed for heated
>seats and heated pitot, also.
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | RE: Instrument install/annunciators |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com>
Here is an option.
http://www.vx-aviation.com/page_2.html#IL-4A,%20IL-12A_more.
Rene' Felker
40322
Message 4
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| Subject: | XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@BPAENGINES.com>
Contact Bart or Sue at Aerosport and tell them the symptoms that you are
having. You will probably need to send the servo to Airflow Performance
and Don will check/repair it for you.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 8:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> Listers:
> I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I
> just did the first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried
> it again yesterday. Here are the symptoms:
> 1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow
> Performance Fuel Injection,
SNIP
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6
> Finally done, if the engine would behave...
Jordan, the book which comes with the Airflow Performance unit is very
thorough in this regard. You are probably correct in guessing that the
idle
mixture is way too rich. Refer to the book. I believe that when Bart
runs
the engine, he uses a carb and not the injection system.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Need Fuel totalizer with Dynon EMS-D10? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy@verizon.net>
Hi Paul,
I removed the Grand Rapids EIS-4000 w/fuel flow option recently and installed the
Dynon EMS-D10 using the same fuel flow transducer. I am very pleased with
the unit and the fuel flow algorithims/data filters in the EMS-D10 are hands down
much more stable than when hooked to the EIS-4000.
I have asked Dynon to add a "Switch Fuel Tanks" alarm to their fuel page that can
be programmed by the owner (i.e.. switch tanks every 15, 30, 45, or 60 minutes).
The EIS-4000 had such an alarm but I think the guys at Dynon forgot to
put it into the EMS-D10. Very handy feature I used all the time.
I've also asked Dynon to allow the user to select a "Power-Up Page" (i.e I would
have the fuel page come up first upon power-up so I would be reminded to "Add
Fuel" to the fuel totalizer so the fuel flow features would be accurate. I
almost always forget to "add fuel" to the fuel page thus my fuel flow calculations
for endurance would then be inaccurate.
Other than those two 'fixes', I think the Dynon EMS-D10 is the ticket and the fuel
flow is more than adequate. Skip the second instrument.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
RV-7A N174JL 135 hrs
www.jacklockamy.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
sportav8r@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>
>I'll admit to keeping my batteries too long, but I'm on my second Odyssey and
third battery since completion in 1998. All have held up well as far as I know,
despite the higher than expected voltage flogging. Battery age has never affected
these little issues at all; as others have said, a sub-par regualtor or
more likely a high ohmic connection in the feedback loop are prime suspects.
>
>I'll consider an IR when Bob N. has figured out an external OV protection scheme
that stands up in the lab; until then, my soon to be 20 kilobuck avionics suite
will enjoy a crowbar's constant oversight, thank you very much :-)
>
>-Stormy
>
The quick drop in voltage when loaded just sounded a bit suspicious. I'd
agree that it's probably either the regulator or wiring issues, as
others have suggested.
I haven't followed every detail of the er/ir debate, since I've run an
ir successfully for over 10 years, but the only downside I've noticed to
an OV protected ir is the chance of damaging the alternator if the B
lead is disconnected under load. This shouldn't happen if you operate
the system like a car. The only time the B lead would get disconnected
under load is if the alternator has already failed in an overvoltage
mode, to which I respond, 'why do I care if I damage a broken
alternator?' Risk to avionics should approach zero, assuming the OV
protection relay does its job.
The upside to ir's, for me at least, is that almost all those potential
wiring problems go away. The internal regulator is designed to operate
in the heat environment of the alternator itself, so as long as you
don't block airflow to the alternator, it should be operating in its
design environment. Environment is an unknown variable with an er,
unless you do the same kind of under-hood testing that car makers do.
Charlie
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Dan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
>
>OK, I'm ready to cut away the blue plastic to dimple the skin, As I've seen most
people use a cheep solder iron, but when I used it on my practice kit it left
a line mark which doesn't appear to rub out ?
> I suppose I may have too much pressure. and I sure when it gets painted no
one will notice,,,, or will I ?
>
> Dan
> -8 HS
>
Just be sure that the tip doesn't have a 'burr' on it; try polishing it
lightly. It will probably still leave a line. Rub the line with a
scotchbrite pad & see if the line disappears. You'll need to scotchbrite
the skin before painting, anyway.
Message 8
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| Subject: | melting the blue plastic from the skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle@hq.InclineSoftworks.com>
I rounded the tip of the soldering iron with the scotch brite wheel.
Kind of a bullet shape.
Then I used a light tough - just score the plastic - don't try to burn
through it.
Then pull it off. It will break along the scored lines and will not
leave a mark on the skins.
Dan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan
Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 10:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: melting the blue plastic from the skin
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
OK, I'm ready to cut away the blue plastic to dimple the skin, As I've
seen most people use a cheep solder iron, but when I used it on my
practice kit it left a line mark which doesn't appear to rub out ?
I suppose I may have too much pressure. and I sure when it gets
painted no one will notice,,,, or will I ?
Dan
-8 HS
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: melting the blue plastic from the skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Hi Dan-
If you are going all the way thru the plastic, you are pressing too hard-
just a light scoring of the plastic does the trick. If you have a piece with the
plastic on it that you can practice on, try various pressures/speeds until
you get a feel for it. Make sure the iron has no sharp edges on it- nicely
smoothed on Scotchbrite wheel. Running the iron down an aluminum yardstick as
a
straightedge helped a bit too. As far as to remove or not remove, my late
version -6A had mostly clear plastic on it, and it came off pretty easily even
after 4 years (wings) see:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5193
I had removed the plastic from the forward side skins on installation, and
had a lot of scratches that needed some clean-up, but don't really think it
would have made a lot of difference, particularly if you are painting. If doing
a
polished plane, YMMV. On parts stored long-term (wings, emp), I'm glad I
left it on and would again. Had very minimal fusiliform corrosion around the
edges of maybe two parts- easy to clean-up.
Have fun!
Mark Phillips
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin avionics trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
I just acquired an all Garmin stack - GMA 340, GTX 327, SL40 -
all 3 trays are exactly 6.25"
g
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I can verify that it's not "fixed"...doubt that it ever will be
> except that maybe new models coming out will be more standardized.
>
> My PS Engineering 8000, GNS480, SL-30, and GTX330 Transponder
> had at least one or two of them that were 6.3 while
> the others were 6.25. All of it was new this year.
> Nothing was a major problem. The biggest problem I had, which
> is a tip any GNS480 buyer should remember, is make sure you
> mount your GNS480 tray at least flush with the face of your
> panel, if not out a couple thousandths. The GNS 480 is
> notorious for not seating all the way into it's tray, and your
> serial communications won't work. I tried for 2 nights to
> get my stuff to talk, and after talking to Stark and getting
> that tip, I moved my tray aft a tad and then pushed the radio
> in as hard as I could...problem solved.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10
>
>
>
> Greg Young wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> >
> > The issue, at least my experience, was that the PS Engineering tray
> > (PS7000 = SL15) was wider that the "real" UPSAT/Garmin units (SL-30,
> > SL-70, GX-60 for me) and necessitated spacers for the non-PS units. The
> > mounting holes spacing (fore-aft) is not the same either but that's
> > really minor. I don't think the Garmin audio panel (GMA340??) is made by
> > PS Engineering so it may not have the same issue.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> > RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
> > Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: <erichweaver@cox.net>
> >>
> >>In researching my panel, I occcasionally have come across the
> >>gripe that the Garmin avionics trays were non-standard in
> >>that they were 6.3 inches wide instead of 6.25, and thus
> >>required the use of washers if installed with other
> >>non-Garmin components. I recently purchased the Garmin SL-40
> >>transceiver and GTX-327 transponder. Measured the trays, and
> >>both were 6.25, so it appears that this issue has been taken
> >>care of. Thought I would pass this along to others
> >>contemplating panel choices.
> >>
> >>regards
> >>
> >>Erich Weaver
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
So the reason we don't have external OV protection schemes on the AeroElectric
platform is due to load-dump concers about, as you say, an already-damaged alternator?
I wasn't following tha
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 08:57:09 -0600
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
sportav8r@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>
>I'll admit to keeping my batteries too long, but I'm on my second Odyssey and
third battery since completion in 1998. All have held up well as far as I know,
despite the higher than expected voltage flogging. Battery age has never
affected these little issues at all; as others have said, a sub-par regualtor or
more likely a high ohmic connection in the feedback loop are prime suspects.
>
>I'll consider an IR when Bob N. has figured out an external OV protection
scheme that stands up in the lab; until then, my soon to be 20 kilobuck avionics
suite will enjoy a crowbar's constant oversight, thank you very much :-)
>
>-Stormy
>
The quick drop in voltage when loaded just sounded a bit suspicious. I'd
agree that it's probably either the regulator or wiring issues, as
others have suggested.
I haven't followed every detail of the er/ir debate, since I've run an
ir successfully for over 10 years, but the only downside I've noticed to
an OV protected ir is the chance of damaging the alternator if the B
lead is disconnected under load. This shouldn't happen if you operate
the system like a car. The only time the B lead would get disconnected
under load is if the alternator has already failed in an overvoltage
mode, to which I respond, 'why do I care if I damage a broken
alternator?' Risk to avionics should approach zero, assuming the OV
protection relay does its job.
The upside to ir's, for me at least, is that almost all those potential
wiring problems go away. The internal regulator is designed to operate
in the heat environment of the alternator itself, so as long as you
don't block airflow to the alternator, it should be operating in its
design environment. Environment is an unknown variable with an er,
unless you do the same kind of under-hood testing that car makers do.
Charlie
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Sport AV8R
Sent: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 12:59:46 -0500
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
Charlie-
was it only to protect already-failed alternators from load-dump that Bob N. withdrew
his OVP schemes from the List? I wasn't following that debate closely
while it was raging.
If that's all that was at stake, you're right that I might be well-served to employ
his old crowbar design and go with an IR in a size and capacity more suited
to my needs.
Thanks for any clarification you can offer.
-Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 08:57:09 -0600
Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
sportav8r@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>
>I'll admit to keeping my batteries too long, but I'm on my second Odyssey and
third battery since completion in 1998. All have held up well as far as I know,
despite the higher than expected voltage flogging. Battery age has never
affected these little issues at all; as others have said, a sub-par regualtor or
more likely a high ohmic connection in the feedback loop are prime suspects.
>
>I'll consider an IR when Bob N. has figured out an external OV protection
scheme that stands up in the lab; until then, my soon to be 20 kilobuck avionics
suite will enjoy a crowbar's constant oversight, thank you very much :-)
>
>-Stormy
>
The quick drop in voltage when loaded just sounded a bit suspicious. I'd
agree that it's probably either the regulator or wiring issues, as
others have suggested.
I haven't followed every detail of the er/ir debate, since I've run an
ir successfully for over 10 years, but the only downside I've noticed to
an OV protected ir is the chance of damaging the alternator if the B
lead is disconnected under load. This shouldn't happen if you operate
the system like a car. The only time the B lead would get disconnected
under load is if the alternator has already failed in an overvoltage
mode, to which I respond, 'why do I care if I damage a broken
alternator?' Risk to avionics should approach zero, assuming the OV
protection relay does its job.
The upside to ir's, for me at least, is that almost all those potential
wiring problems go away. The internal regulator is designed to operate
in the heat environment of the alternator itself, so as long as you
don't block airflow to the alternator, it should be operating in its
design environment. Environment is an unknown variable with an er,
unless you do the same kind of under-hood testing that car makers do.
Charlie
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
sportav8r@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sportav8r@aol.com
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Sport AV8R
>To: rv-list@matronics.co
>Sent: Mon, 16 Jan 2006 12:59:46 -0500
>Subject: Re: RV-List: >Re:need some advice here,guys-alternator for RV
>
>
>
> Charlie-
>
>was it only to protect already-failed alternators from load-dump that Bob N. withdrew
his OVP schemes from the List? I wasn't following that debate closely
while it was raging.
>
>If that's all that was at stake, you're right that I might be well-served to employ
his old crowbar design and go with an IR in a size and capacity more suited
to my needs.
>
>Thanks for any clarification you can offer.
>
>-Bill
>
My read was that some were trying to use a traditional split master,
like most certified a/c. This would allow the electrical load (possibly
heavy load) to be active when they switched off the B lead. This 'load
dump' would allow the voltage output of the alternator to spike upward
to an extreme level before the internal regulator could control it, with
the potential of overvoltage damaging the internal electronics within
the alternator. Again, my read was that this was an alternator failure
occurring because of operator actions, not system faults. Even if this
happens, the protection relay should be open, protecting valuable avionics.
Of course, the same sequence of events can happen if the regulator has
failed, allowing voltage to rise, causing the OV relay to open. This is
the case I was talking about when I said 'why do I care?'
There is apparently some small chance of internal fire in the alternator
(remember that there is not much to burn inside the case of an
alternator). I suspect that this might be the reason for withdrawing the
OV-disconnect relay scheme.
Why not ask a direct question of Bob on the aeroelectric list about
whether this was the true reason for withdrawing the design? Frame the
question something like, "If I don't use a split master & 'load dump'
can only occur from the OV relay opening due to an existing OV
condition, is there any reason not to use the OV relay design with a
'one wire' internally regulated alternator?"
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
For the archives:
Jordan,
We have a filter that is standard equipment on our current systems but you
may have purchased yours before we started installing them in every unit.
Please see the attached document and verify that you do or do not have the
clamp filter shown in the picture. If you don't have one I will be happy to
send you a filter at no charge.
Let me know after you've checked for the filter if I need to send you one
and where.
Thanks,
Ken Chard
Advanced Flight Systems, Inc.
10714 S. Township Rd
Suite B
Canby, OR 97013
503-263-0037 phone
503-263-1163 fax
www.Advanced-Flight-Systems.com
www.Angle-of-Attack.com
-----Original Message-----
From: Jordan Grant [mailto:gra9933@bellsouth.net]
Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 5:36 PM
Subject: Radio Noise
Hello,
I am having a problem that I'm hoping you can help me out with. I am
getting radio static noise through my VHF radio that I think is related to
my ACS2002 engine monitor. I didn't orginally have any problems when I
started testing my plane - but then it cropped up after doing some work. It
sounds just like the squelch is turned up on the radio. I think its related
to the ACS2002 because the noise will go away (or at least dramatically
decrease) when I start the ACS in calibration mode, and come back when I
return to normal mode. Also, the noise will go away entirely if I pull the
fuse for the engine monitor. The noise stays when I pull the audio
connection wires out of the back of the ACS screen module.
Have you had any complaints about noise? Anything I should check?
Thanks for your help,
Jordan Grant
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
For the archives:
I adjusted my fuel mixture today and the engine is now purring like a
kitten!! As it turns out, the engine was not running rich, it was
running too lean! I turned the adjustment about 1/2 turn (2 or 3 flats)
to the rich side of where it was when I received it. The engine started
right up and ran very nicely. Another flat to the rich side and it would
satisfy the 50 rpm rise test when pulling the mixture out.
My airplane is now ready to go fly.
Jordan Grant
RV-6 N198G
Ready to fly, just need to do weight/balance, and go fly it!!
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
>Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 8:57 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
><alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Listers:
>> I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I
>>just did the first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried
>>it again yesterday. Here are the symptoms:
>>1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow
>>Performance Fuel Injection,
>>
>>
>
> SNIP
>
>
>
>>Jordan Grant
>>RV-6
>>Finally done, if the engine would behave...
>>
>>
>
>Jordan, the book which comes with the Airflow Performance unit is very
>thorough in this regard. You are probably correct in guessing that the
>idle
>mixture is way too rich. Refer to the book. I believe that when Bart
>runs
>the engine, he uses a carb and not the injection system.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Don't forget to consider your altitude.
Assuming your in Goldsboro, NC your at sea level. But for others at
altitude, you would need to consider this in your adjustment. 50rmp rise
would not be enough if set in Denver and flown to Goldsboro, unless you
have a great best glide.
Best,
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jordan Grant
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
--> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
For the archives:
I adjusted my fuel mixture today and the engine is now purring like a
kitten!! As it turns out, the engine was not running rich, it was
running too lean! I turned the adjustment about 1/2 turn (2 or 3 flats)
to the rich side of where it was when I received it. The engine started
right up and ran very nicely. Another flat to the rich side and it would
satisfy the 50 rpm rise test when pulling the mixture out.
My airplane is now ready to go fly.
Jordan Grant
RV-6 N198G
Ready to fly, just need to do weight/balance, and go fly it!!
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
>Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 8:57 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
><alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>Listers:
>> I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I
>>just did the first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried
>>it again yesterday. Here are the symptoms:
>>1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow
>>Performance Fuel Injection,
>>
>>
>
> SNIP
>
>
>
>>Jordan Grant
>>RV-6
>>Finally done, if the engine would behave...
>>
>>
>
>Jordan, the book which comes with the Airflow Performance unit is very
>thorough in this regard. You are probably correct in guessing that the
>idle
>mixture is way too rich. Refer to the book. I believe that when Bart
>runs
>the engine, he uses a carb and not the injection system.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Radio Noise w/ Engine Monitor ACS2002 ACS2003 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
For the archives, this time with a subject line that makes sense.
>Jordan,
>
>We have a filter that is standard equipment on our current systems but you
>may have purchased yours before we started installing them in every unit.
>Please see the attached document and verify that you do or do not have the
>clamp filter shown in the picture. If you don't have one I will be happy to
>send you a filter at no charge.
>
>Let me know after you've checked for the filter if I need to send you one
>and where.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Ken Chard
>Advanced Flight Systems, Inc.
>10714 S. Township Rd
>Suite B
>Canby, OR 97013
>503-263-0037 phone
>503-263-1163 fax
>www.Advanced-Flight-Systems.com
>www.Angle-of-Attack.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jordan Grant [mailto:gra9933@bellsouth.net]
>Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 5:36 PM
>To: info@advanced-flight-systems.com
>Subject: Radio Noise
>
>Hello,
> I am having a problem that I'm hoping you can help me out with. I am
>getting radio static noise through my VHF radio that I think is related to
>my ACS2002 engine monitor. I didn't orginally have any problems when I
>started testing my plane - but then it cropped up after doing some work. It
>sounds just like the squelch is turned up on the radio. I think its related
>to the ACS2002 because the noise will go away (or at least dramatically
>decrease) when I start the ACS in calibration mode, and come back when I
>return to normal mode. Also, the noise will go away entirely if I pull the
>fuse for the engine monitor. The noise stays when I pull the audio
>connection wires out of the back of the ACS screen module.
> Have you had any complaints about noise? Anything I should check?
>
>Thanks for your help,
>
>Jordan Grant
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Radio Noise w/ Engine Monitor ACS2002 ACS2003 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Photos of the ACS2002 (now AF-2500) noise filter installation here:
http://www.rvproject.com/20040207.html
2nd and 3rd photos down (sorry, crummy photos, but you get the idea).
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (774 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 3:03 PM
Subject: RV-List: Radio Noise w/ Engine Monitor ACS2002 ACS2003
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> For the archives, this time with a subject line that makes sense.
>
>>Jordan,
>>
>>We have a filter that is standard equipment on our current systems but you
>>may have purchased yours before we started installing them in every unit.
>>Please see the attached document and verify that you do or do not have the
>>clamp filter shown in the picture. If you don't have one I will be happy
>>to
>>send you a filter at no charge.
>>
>>Let me know after you've checked for the filter if I need to send you one
>>and where.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Ken Chard
>>Advanced Flight Systems, Inc.
>>10714 S. Township Rd
>>Suite B
>>Canby, OR 97013
>>503-263-0037 phone
>>503-263-1163 fax
>>www.Advanced-Flight-Systems.com
>>www.Angle-of-Attack.com
>>
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Jordan Grant [mailto:gra9933@bellsouth.net]
>>Sent: Saturday, January 14, 2006 5:36 PM
>>To: info@advanced-flight-systems.com
>>Subject: Radio Noise
>>
>>Hello,
>> I am having a problem that I'm hoping you can help me out with. I am
>>getting radio static noise through my VHF radio that I think is related to
>>my ACS2002 engine monitor. I didn't orginally have any problems when I
>>started testing my plane - but then it cropped up after doing some work.
>>It
>>sounds just like the squelch is turned up on the radio. I think its
>>related
>>to the ACS2002 because the noise will go away (or at least dramatically
>>decrease) when I start the ACS in calibration mode, and come back when I
>>return to normal mode. Also, the noise will go away entirely if I pull the
>>fuse for the engine monitor. The noise stays when I pull the audio
>>connection wires out of the back of the ACS screen module.
>> Have you had any complaints about noise? Anything I should check?
>>
>>Thanks for your help,
>>
>>Jordan Grant
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Need Fuel totalizer with Dynon EMS-D10? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Pictures? What about the rest of the wiring and the different sized holes
in the panel? I currently have the EIS4000 too.....
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: jacklockamy [mailto:jacklockamy@verizon.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 9:46 AM
> To: RV List
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Need Fuel totalizer with Dynon EMS-D10?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy@verizon.net>
>
> Hi Paul,
>
> I removed the Grand Rapids EIS-4000 w/fuel flow option
> recently and installed the Dynon EMS-D10 using the same fuel
> flow transducer. I am very pleased with the unit and the
> fuel flow algorithims/data filters in the EMS-D10 are hands
> down much more stable than when hooked to the EIS-4000.
>
> I have asked Dynon to add a "Switch Fuel Tanks" alarm to
> their fuel page that can be programmed by the owner (i.e..
> switch tanks every 15, 30, 45, or 60 minutes). The EIS-4000
> had such an alarm but I think the guys at Dynon forgot to put
> it into the EMS-D10. Very handy feature I used all the time.
>
> I've also asked Dynon to allow the user to select a "Power-Up
> Page" (i.e I would have the fuel page come up first upon
> power-up so I would be reminded to "Add Fuel" to the fuel
> totalizer so the fuel flow features would be accurate. I
> almost always forget to "add fuel" to the fuel page thus my
> fuel flow calculations for endurance would then be inaccurate.
>
> Other than those two 'fixes', I think the Dynon EMS-D10 is
> the ticket and the fuel flow is more than adequate. Skip the
> second instrument.
>
> Jack Lockamy
> Camarillo, CA
> RV-7A N174JL 135 hrs
> www.jacklockamy.com
>
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin avionics trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
I have the Garmin 340 audio panel, 430 GPS, SL40 comm, and 330S transponder. I
purchased only the trays many months before I needed the radios. (why burn the
warranty on the bench!!) I put the trays together, lining them up face down.
The SL40 is slightly narrower but not a big deal. I did add some shims between
the tray and the support piece used to fasten the trays together.
After I got the radios and installed them I noticed all of the Garmin stuff lined
up perfect. The SL40 however was inset about 3/32." Also not a big deal but
I would have liked to have them all perfectly lined up. Nobody else has noticed.
If you don't have the radios my suggestion would be to place a 3/32" shim on the
front of the SL40 or SL30 tray to get proper alignment.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
RV-7 N717EE
Message 21
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| Subject: | Vans RV Orndorff Construction Tapes for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick@cox.net>
I just listed the tapes that follow on Ebay if anyone is interested.
Set of RV construction tapes from George Orndorff
Aircraft Sheet Metal Tools - 1 volume
RV6/8 Empennage Construction - 2 volumes
RV 6 Fuselage Construction - 3 volumes
RV 6 Finishing Kit Construction - 3 Volumes
RV Aircraft Systems - 2 Volumes
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4599#4599
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/dscn8879_939.jpg
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
When looking up at %HP tables, should I use OAT or Carb Temp?
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Burns" <burnsm@cox.net>
AOT for sure.
Mark
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>ics.com
>>When looking up at %HP tables, should I use OAT or Carb Temp?
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Burns" <burnsm@cox.net>
I meant to say "OAT for sure", on my previous reply not (AOT)
I hate it when it does that,
Mark
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
When looking up at %HP tables, should I use OAT or Carb Temp?
Message 25
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| Subject: | Newbie fluting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Karlsberg <claypride@hotmail.com>
1. Debur or flute first?
2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?
Thanks,
David
Message 26
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| Subject: | Newbie fluting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of David Karlsberg
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 9:02 PM
Subject: RV-List: Newbie fluting question
--> RV-List message posted by: David Karlsberg <claypride@hotmail.com>
1. Debur or flute first? either one is fine
2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar? no this one does not
need to be fluted
Thanks,
David
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Newbie fluting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
David,
I have found it easier to debur first, before fluting. That way you are
deburring a straight edge, which is easier. In general, you flute when
there is a curve, straight edges do not need fluting.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Karlsberg" <claypride@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 12:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Newbie fluting question
> --> RV-List message posted by: David Karlsberg <claypride@hotmail.com>
>
> 1. Debur or flute first?
>
> 2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?
>
> Thanks,
> David
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | RV6 wing tips for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
Hi all,
I have a friend that has some new, undrilled, RV-6, flat top wing tips for sale.
His name is Dave and can be reached at 856-447-0269.
Thanks ,
Paul
RV8QB
Message 29
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| Subject: | RV6 Fuselage Jig Wanted. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
I would like to know if anyone has an RV6 fuselage jig that they are willing to
part with. I live in Southern NJ, and am about to start the fuselage construction
and thought it might save some time to get one somebody was finished with.
Call Dave at 856-447-0269 if you can help.
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