Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:34 AM - Glueing canopies (Glen Matejcek)
2. 05:29 AM - Re: Newbie fluting question (Charlie Kuss)
3. 05:37 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (Charlie Kuss)
4. 06:19 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (Rob Prior (rv7))
5. 06:28 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (Bob J)
6. 07:27 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (Mickey Coggins)
7. 08:05 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
8. 08:28 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (Randall Richter)
9. 08:45 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (Ron Lee)
10. 09:12 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (Mickey Coggins)
11. 09:21 AM - Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine (Jeff Dowling)
12. 10:13 AM - Re: Newbie fluting question (Pat Hatch)
13. 10:52 AM - FS: Strong parachute (Ken Balch)
14. 12:15 PM - CYL high temp (lowell lemay)
15. 12:31 PM - Re: CYL high temp (James Clark)
16. 03:15 PM - Re: Newbie fluting question ()
17. 03:24 PM - Re: CYL high temp (Kelly McMullen)
18. 04:17 PM - Re: CYL high temp (LarryRobertHelming)
19. 07:04 PM - Re: CYL high temp (Alex Peterson)
20. 07:48 PM - Garmin Avionics Trays (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
21. 08:19 PM - deburring inside of ribs (Folbrecht, Paul)
22. 09:15 PM - Re: deburring inside of ribs (Jim Cimino)
23. 09:27 PM - Tools For Sale: Pneumatic Squeezer, Flange Nose Yoke, Rivet Set Kit, Edge Roller (William Scaringe)
24. 10:26 PM - Re: Re: Newbie fluting question (Albert Gardner)
25. 11:23 PM - Re: Garmin Avionics Trays (Greg Young)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi All-
Jamestown Distributors is having a sale on the Sika products used to glue
canopies on. See http://www.jamestowndistributors.com.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Newbie fluting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
David,
1 Debur first. It will be very difficult to deburr after adding fluting
crimps. The fluting will not require the edges to be deburred again.
2 Fluting is generally only required on the long side flanges. The spars
mate to the "short" front & rear edges of the ribs. If required, fluting
will not hurt the short sides, providing you do not place a flute at the
same point a rivet hole is required. This rule holds true everywhere.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: David Karlsberg <claypride@hotmail.com>
>
>1. Debur or flute first?
>
>2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?
>
>Thanks,
>David
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Glen,
Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
>Hi All-
>
>Jamestown Distributors is having a sale on the Sika products used to glue
>canopies on. See http://www.jamestowndistributors.com.
>
>Glen Matejcek
>aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
>From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
engine is your friend):
---
Hi Mickey,
I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the Sika
209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a boat
builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than case
lots. They also take credit card orders
over the phone.
They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by ground
so it could take a while to receive depending
upon where you live.
If you get some let me know what you think about it.
Jim Ellis
finishing canopy
RV9-A tip up
---
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
I used 295, the cleaner which leaves a film (adhesion promoter), and the
black primer. I can grab the edge of the canopy and shake the whole
airplane. If you are patient and careful with it, you will have great
results with the sikaflex process. Having done it once I wouldn't do it any
other way, as others have said.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 1/17/06, Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Glen,
> Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
> >
> >Hi All-
> >
> >Jamestown Distributors is having a sale on the Sika products used to glue
> >canopies on. See http://www.jamestowndistributors.com.
> >
> >Glen Matejcek
> >aerobubba@earthlink.net
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
And I took Jim's advice. I got great service and a fair
price from Jamestown Distributors. The price was less
ordering from there and having it shipped to Switzerland
than it was to buy it locally - and it's made here!
Mickey
Rob Prior (rv7) wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
>
> On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>> Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
>
>
>>From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
> engine is your friend):
>
> ---
> Hi Mickey,
>
> I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the Sika
> 209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
> Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a boat
> builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
>
> I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than case
> lots. They also take credit card orders
> over the phone.
>
> They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
>
> Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by ground
> so it could take a while to receive depending
> upon where you live.
>
> If you get some let me know what you think about it.
>
> Jim Ellis
> finishing canopy
> RV9-A tip up
> ---
>
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Bob J wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
>
>I used 295, the cleaner which leaves a film (adhesion promoter), and the
>black primer. I can grab the edge of the canopy and shake the whole
>airplane. If you are patient and careful with it, you will have great
>results with the sikaflex process. Having done it once I wouldn't do it any
>other way, as others have said.
>
>Regards,
>Bob Japundza
>RV-6 flying F1 under const.
>
>
>
If I were doing it again, I would glue mine. I got a crack in mine with
the pop rivets. There is no real precise way of knowing how much
pressure the rivet will pop at and if it goes too much, it can crack the
canopy like mine did.
"normally" not a problem, but mine was well fitted and it pulled too
hard. I almost knew it was going to happen when I was pulling the
rivet. luckily the crack is under the top piece of aluminum and runs
from one hole to another and it is practically invisble.. There are
probably some out there that have cracks between holes that don't even
know it because they are hidden.
Phil in Illinois
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Richter" <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
Guys, while we're on the subject, does anyone have any data on the weight
penalty, if any, of gluing as apposed to riveting? There's the obvious
advantage of less probability of cracking, but for some (those in warmer
climes) that's less of a concern.
Thanks!
Randy Richter
-7QB in embryonic stage
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob J
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 9:28 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
I used 295, the cleaner which leaves a film (adhesion promoter), and the
black primer. I can grab the edge of the canopy and shake the whole
airplane. If you are patient and careful with it, you will have great
results with the sikaflex process. Having done it once I wouldn't do it any
other way, as others have said.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>If I were doing it again, I would glue mine. I got a crack in mine with
>the pop rivets. There is no real precise way of knowing how much
>pressure the rivet will pop at and if it goes too much, it can crack the
>canopy like mine did.
Another alternative is using rivnuts. With those you can apply less
pressure than pop rivets. Maybe even a little glue too.
Ron Lee
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Randy,
There is no doubt in my mind that gluing is heavier. I can't
tell you how much, but two or three tubes (standard caulk size)
will weigh more than a handful of rivets.
Mickey
Randall Richter wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randall Richter" <richterrbb@earthlink.net>
>
> Guys, while we're on the subject, does anyone have any data on the weight
> penalty, if any, of gluing as apposed to riveting? There's the obvious
> advantage of less probability of cracking, but for some (those in warmer
> climes) that's less of a concern.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy Richter
> -7QB in embryonic stage
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
That sure seems sensitive. I can turn my Bendix injector full turns will
little change. Maybe mine is screwed up.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jordan Grant" <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>
> For the archives:
>
> I adjusted my fuel mixture today and the engine is now purring like a
> kitten!! As it turns out, the engine was not running rich, it was
> running too lean! I turned the adjustment about 1/2 turn (2 or 3 flats)
> to the rich side of where it was when I received it. The engine started
> right up and ran very nicely. Another flat to the rich side and it would
> satisfy the 50 rpm rise test when pulling the mixture out.
>
> My airplane is now ready to go fly.
>
> Jordan Grant
> RV-6 N198G
> Ready to fly, just need to do weight/balance, and go fly it!!
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alex Peterson
>>Sent: Sunday, January 15, 2006 8:57 AM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: XP-360 Very Rough Running Engine
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
>><alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jordan Grant <gra9933@bellsouth.net>
>>>
>>>Listers:
>>> I have an engine problem - maybe one of you can help. I
>>>just did the first start of my engine 2 weeks ago and tried
>>>it again yesterday. Here are the symptoms:
>>>1) Brand-new XP-360 built by Aerosport Power with Airflow
>>>Performance Fuel Injection,
>>>
>>>
>>
>> SNIP
>>
>>
>>
>>>Jordan Grant
>>>RV-6
>>>Finally done, if the engine would behave...
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Jordan, the book which comes with the Airflow Performance unit is very
>>thorough in this regard. You are probably correct in guessing that the
>>idle
>>mixture is way too rich. Refer to the book. I believe that when Bart
>>runs
>>the engine, he uses a carb and not the injection system.
>>
>>Alex Peterson
>>RV6-A N66AP 704 hours
>>Maple Grove, MN
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Newbie fluting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
1. Debur first, then flute. Otherwise your deburring tool will snag on the
flutes.
2. Do not flute the flange that attaches to the spar. Wrong axis (flutting
the top and bottom flanges straightens the rib parallel to the chord line).
Pat Hatch
RV-6
RV-7
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Karlsberg
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 12:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Newbie fluting question
--> RV-List message posted by: David Karlsberg <claypride@hotmail.com>
1. Debur or flute first?
2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?
Thanks,
David
Message 13
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| Subject: | FS: Strong parachute |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ken Balch <kbalch@cfl.rr.com>
For Sale: Strong Para-Cushion Seat 304 emergency parachute. This chute
was used for the flight testing of two RVs (never jumped), and is in
perfect condition. It fits great in the front seats of the RV-8 and the
RV-4. It's navy blue with gray trim and comes with its original Strong
carry bag.
I have no use for it at the moment and would like to see it go to a good
home. The price for a new one is $1545. The first offer of $1300 will
take mine and I'll pay for shipping in the lower 48.
Regards,
Ken Balch
RV-8 N118KB (sold, and sorely missed...)
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "lowell lemay" <llemay1@austin.rr.com>
Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new Mattituck
O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most holes..placed horizontal flanges
on top inside of plenum near the split in the cyl heads, and cut off 1
inch across the middle bottom of the under cowling. Started with over 425 on
# 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them down to about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need
more room when it gets hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken
in...Lowell
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Clark <jclarkmail@gmail.com>
Lowell ...
Are cylinders 1 & 2 extra cool?
If so, maybe an air dam in from of them will divert some of the cooling air
to 3 & 4.
James
On 1/17/06, lowell lemay <llemay1@austin.rr.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lowell lemay" <llemay1@austin.rr.com>
>
> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new
> Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most holes..placed
> horizontal flanges on top inside of plenum near the split in the cyl heads,
> and cut off 1 inch across the middle bottom of the under cowling. Started
> with over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them down to about 380 with
> 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets hot...........Now have 40 hours
> and consider it broken in...Lowell
>
>
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james@nextupventures.com .
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Newbie fluting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: Newbie fluting question
From: David Karlsberg <claypride@hotmail.com>
>1. Debur or flute first?
Debur first. In fact make a production line. Do all you deburring first on all
the parts you are working with at the time, than do all the fluting. Save time.
It is easier to debur with a straight flange than one with flutes but it can
be done. Usually after debur, flute I may go over the flange with the belt
sander or vixen file to even the flange out sometimes to make a the flange even
width, but this is not necessary.
>2. Do I flute the flange that attaches to the spar?
No, when sheet metal is bent in a straight line fluting is not usually needed.
If there is a curved surface and a flange than flutes are usually needed. If
the rib is not flat across the spar flange it should be so small as not not make
a difference.
Go slow and even and flute as little as possible, you can always squeeze or or
tap out over fluting but you usually want to slowly work up to the point of
straight with out over doing it. The more curved the flange the deeper the flutes.
Get and use good quality flute pliers, the cheap ones and ones that make wide
flutes suck. Check Avery or Cleaveland tools.
http://www5.mailordercentral.com/clevtool/home.asp
---------------------------------
Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
Make sure you have at least a 1/8" gap behind the #3 cylinder to allow air
to flow between the baffling and the cylinder. If you don't, no air will
flow on the back side of the head. Don't know why you have trouble with
#4.
Also, be sure the baffles on the underside of the cylinders are up tight
against the cylinder fins.
lowell lemay said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lowell lemay" <llemay1@austin.rr.com>
>
> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new
> Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most
> holes..placed horizontal flanges on top inside of plenum near the split in
> the cyl heads, and cut off 1 inch across the middle bottom of the under
> cowling. Started with over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them
> down to about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets
> hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken in...Lowell
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
You should also check the cooling fins in the area around the spark plugs.
On my TMX last year, I found some of them filled up with some sort of slag
or manufacturing stuff. (I could not see through when shining a light on
the other side so that air could flow through) I had to drill through it
and file it out using a real small file. Also putting a washer behind the
#3 cylinder to create a gap between the cylinder and the baffle is a good
thing to do.
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com>
>
> Make sure you have at least a 1/8" gap behind the #3 cylinder to allow air
> to flow between the baffling and the cylinder. If you don't, no air will
> flow on the back side of the head. Don't know why you have trouble with
> #4.
> Also, be sure the baffles on the underside of the cylinders are up tight
> against the cylinder fins.
>
> lowell lemay said:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "lowell lemay" <llemay1@austin.rr.com>
>>
>> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new
>> Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most
>> holes..placed horizontal flanges on top inside of plenum near the split
>> in
>> the cyl heads, and cut off 1 inch across the middle bottom of the under
>> cowling. Started with over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them
>> down to about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets
>> hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken in...Lowell
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lowell lemay" <llemay1@austin.rr.com>
>
> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp
> on a new Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have
> plugged most holes..placed horizontal flanges on top inside
> of plenum near the split in the cyl heads, and cut off 1 inch
> across the middle bottom of the under cowling. Started with
> over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them down to
> about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets
> hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken in...Lowell
Do you have a MP gauge and fuel flow gauge? Temps are dramatically affected
by subtle mixture changes. Do you have EGT's on all four exhausts? If you
have all this equipment, you can do a graph of fuel flow vs EGT's. This
might identify if the fuel/air charge is somewhat balanced (see where the
peaks are relative to one another). Do you have EI or FI? If things are
balanced, you might be able to run LOP, which will cool the cylinders by
about 40 to 50 degrees F.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 705 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 20
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| Subject: | Garmin Avionics Trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Ok folks ya got my attention:
Since I'm just about to mount my trays I have a few questions. I bought an
Apollo (UPS Aviation Technologies) stack (Audio, SL-30, GX-65 and SL-70)
about a year or two before they merged with Garmin. Now I'm finally
finishing the panel and about to install the trays. My ruler says that 3 of
the trays are exactly 6 1/4 inches wide. The audio panel tray however
(SL-10MS, actually a PS Engineering PMA 6000 with Apollo bezel), is about
1/32 wider. So....we been discussing the 6.25 vs 6.3 inch width issue here
and I obviously can't install the mounting rails at 6.25 inches apart or I'm
not going to be able to fit the audio panel in.
What has everyone been doing for mounting rails for these trays? My plan is
to use 1/16 aluminum angle (flush) riveted to the back of the instrument
panel cutout at the tray's width apart. Is this a good plan or do you
recommend doing something else (I already looked at Radio Rax, too spendy)?
Is there a standard distance between the two rails that will allow me to add
new radio technology later? If I make the rails 6.3 inches apart do I just
add shims between the rails and the other (6.25 inch) trays? What do the
avionics shops do? How do I mount the trays to the rail? I see two holes
in the front and back (sides) of the trays, does one just match drill the
rails to these holes and install screws and nuts? Do I need to use a flush
head screw inside the tray to allow the radios to slide in? Or....is there
a special fastener I use here?
Tray position forward and aft. I heard some rumblings about the 480 not
seating. Are we trying to get the back of the bezels to just touch the
surface of the instrument panel (nicest looking installation) or do they
need to stick out a little bit so we don't have seating problems? Is there
a standard way to do this or do I just have to fiddle around with it until
things match up? Should I slot the mounting holes in the aluminum rails a
little to provide some wiggle room?
I'm thinking that I'll make both the radio stack cutout in the panel and the
aluminum rails the full height of the RV-6 panel. That way I can just make
covers that I can remove later if I want to change radios and/or add
something like the G430 or MX-20. I was also thinking that I should drill
holes in the aluminum angle rails above and below my current stack to
facilitate easy install of new trays later. Is there a standard dimension
between the holes on the trays or between trays that I can use that will
facilitate this (ie. Can I just drill holes in the mounting rails every
inch)? Or is this just wishful thinking and I'll have to endure the pain of
trying to do this later with the panel in the plane (yuck)? Any other words
of wisdom on installing the radio stack? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Enjoying systems install after spending (8+) years as a tin-smith.
Time: 08:57:59 AM PST US
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin avionics trays
From: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
I just acquired an all Garmin stack - GMA 340, GTX 327, SL40 -
all 3 trays are exactly 6.25"
g
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>
> I can verify that it's not "fixed"...doubt that it ever will be
> except that maybe new models coming out will be more standardized.
>
> My PS Engineering 8000, GNS480, SL-30, and GTX330 Transponder
> had at least one or two of them that were 6.3 while
> the others were 6.25. All of it was new this year.
> Nothing was a major problem. The biggest problem I had, which
> is a tip any GNS480 buyer should remember, is make sure you
> mount your GNS480 tray at least flush with the face of your
> panel, if not out a couple thousandths. The GNS 480 is
> notorious for not seating all the way into it's tray, and your
> serial communications won't work. I tried for 2 nights to
> get my stuff to talk, and after talking to Stark and getting
> that tip, I moved my tray aft a tad and then pushed the radio
> in as hard as I could...problem solved.
>
>
> Tim Olson -- RV-10
>
>
>
> Greg Young wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
> >
> > The issue, at least my experience, was that the PS Engineering tray
> > (PS7000 = SL15) was wider that the "real" UPSAT/Garmin units (SL-30,
> > SL-70, GX-60 for me) and necessitated spacers for the non-PS units. The
> > mounting holes spacing (fore-aft) is not the same either but that's
> > really minor. I don't think the Garmin audio panel (GMA340??) is made by
> > PS Engineering so it may not have the same issue.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
> > RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
> > Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: <erichweaver@cox.net>
> >>
> >>In researching my panel, I occcasionally have come across the
> >>gripe that the Garmin avionics trays were non-standard in
> >>that they were 6.3 inches wide instead of 6.25, and thus
> >>required the use of washers if installed with other
> >>non-Garmin components. I recently purchased the Garmin SL-40
> >>transceiver and GTX-327 transponder. Measured the trays, and
> >>both were 6.25, so it appears that this issue has been taken
> >>care of. Thought I would pass this along to others
> >>contemplating panel choices.
> >>
> >>regards
> >>
> >>Erich Weaver
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 21
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| Subject: | deburring inside of ribs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes? The avery swivel
doesn't do it.
Maybe I could stick the head in the end of the 90-degree drill kit... hmmm.
~Paul
~9A QB #1176 Setting 1st rivets on h. stab tomorrow maybe...
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: deburring inside of ribs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
I used a Scotch Brite Wheel (small) on an adapter for the drill.
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
200+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 11:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: deburring inside of ribs
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul"
> <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
>
> What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes? The
> avery swivel doesn't do it.
>
> Maybe I could stick the head in the end of the 90-degree drill kit...
> hmmm.
>
> ~Paul
> ~9A QB #1176 Setting 1st rivets on h. stab tomorrow maybe...
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Tools For Sale: Pneumatic Squeezer, Flange Nose Yoke, Rivet Set |
Kit, Edge Roller
--> RV-List message posted by: William Scaringe <bscaringe@sbcglobal.net>
Hi Builders, I'm selling these high quality tools on eBay:
CP-214 Pneumatic Rivet C-Yoke Squeezer (item 7582769556)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7582769556
2.5" Flange Nose Yoke (item 7582766998)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7582766998
Rivet Squeezer Set and Dimple Die Kit with Rivet Reader Set (item 7582766017)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7582766017
Cleaveland Aircraft Aluminum Edge Forming Roller Tool (item 7582763388)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7582763388
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Newbie fluting question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@adelphia.net>
At the same time, bend as necessary to make the rib edges perpendicular to
the web so the skin lays flat. Also after fluting and straightening run the
tip of the nose rib against a disk sander to make sure the curve is smooth.
Any bumps or irregularities may cause a bump in the skin. If the rib isn't
flat against the skin, riveting may cause a depression where the skin is
pulled down to the rib. You have to flute before you can assemble and match
drill otherwise the rib holes won't match the skin holes.
My sequence is:
1. Dress all edges against the scotchbright wheel.
2. Flute the rib as necessary to make it lay flat (this will put all rivet
hole is a line).
3. Bend the edges if necessary so they are perpendicular to the web.
4. Assemble, match drill.
5. Deburr and dimple.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 25
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| Subject: | Garmin Avionics Trays |
Cc: <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Dean,
I've got the same stack going into my -6 and am also flying one in my Navion. I
used 3/4x3/4x.063 angle for my rails and match drilled them for the holes in
the trays and mounted nutplates on the rails. I used flat head screws for mounting.
The audio panel tray is flush with the front of the rails and the SL & GX
trays set back further to get the front panels lined up the way I wanted. There's
an .063 doubler plus the .063 panel on top of the rails so the radios set
1/8 below the panel surface.
I spaced the rails slightly wider (5-10 thou) than the audio panel tray because
the radio bezel is wider than the tray. I made shim strips, drilled to the mounting
holes, for both sides of the SL/GX's. The mounting holes are not spaced
to any standard plus you can alter the spacing between the radios. The audio
panel holes will not necessarily align vertically with the SL/GX depending on
how you want the bezels to align. I have elected to rebuild the rails if I want
to change the stack in the future. I too looked at Radiorax and found them just
a little pricey.
I'll send you some pictures offline of my -6 panel.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY - project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
> --> <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>
> Ok folks ya got my attention:
>
> Since I'm just about to mount my trays I have a few
> questions. I bought an Apollo (UPS Aviation Technologies)
> stack (Audio, SL-30, GX-65 and SL-70) about a year or two
> before they merged with Garmin. Now I'm finally finishing
> the panel and about to install the trays. My ruler says that
> 3 of the trays are exactly 6 1/4 inches wide. The audio
> panel tray however (SL-10MS, actually a PS Engineering PMA
> 6000 with Apollo bezel), is about
> 1/32 wider. So....we been discussing the 6.25 vs 6.3 inch
> width issue here and I obviously can't install the mounting
> rails at 6.25 inches apart or I'm not going to be able to fit
> the audio panel in.
>
> What has everyone been doing for mounting rails for these
> trays? My plan is to use 1/16 aluminum angle (flush) riveted
> to the back of the instrument panel cutout at the tray's
> width apart. Is this a good plan or do you recommend doing
> something else (I already looked at Radio Rax, too spendy)?
> Is there a standard distance between the two rails that will
> allow me to add new radio technology later? If I make the
> rails 6.3 inches apart do I just add shims between the rails
> and the other (6.25 inch) trays? What do the avionics shops
> do? How do I mount the trays to the rail? I see two holes
> in the front and back (sides) of the trays, does one just
> match drill the rails to these holes and install screws and
> nuts? Do I need to use a flush head screw inside the tray to
> allow the radios to slide in? Or....is there a special
> fastener I use here?
>
> Tray position forward and aft. I heard some rumblings about
> the 480 not seating. Are we trying to get the back of the
> bezels to just touch the surface of the instrument panel
> (nicest looking installation) or do they need to stick out a
> little bit so we don't have seating problems? Is there a
> standard way to do this or do I just have to fiddle around
> with it until things match up? Should I slot the mounting
> holes in the aluminum rails a little to provide some wiggle room?
>
> I'm thinking that I'll make both the radio stack cutout in
> the panel and the aluminum rails the full height of the RV-6
> panel. That way I can just make covers that I can remove
> later if I want to change radios and/or add something like
> the G430 or MX-20. I was also thinking that I should drill
> holes in the aluminum angle rails above and below my current
> stack to facilitate easy install of new trays later. Is
> there a standard dimension between the holes on the trays or
> between trays that I can use that will facilitate this (ie.
> Can I just drill holes in the mounting rails every inch)? Or
> is this just wishful thinking and I'll have to endure the
> pain of trying to do this later with the panel in the plane
> (yuck)? Any other words of wisdom on installing the radio
> stack? Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Enjoying systems install after spending (8+) years as a tin-smith.
>
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