Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:16 AM - Artifical Horizon (Steve Glasgow)
2. 02:42 AM - Re: Artifical Horizon (RAS)
3. 04:36 AM - Re: Artifical Horizon (Steve Glasgow)
4. 04:58 AM - Re: Re: Artifical Horizon (Larry Bowen)
5. 05:15 AM - Re: Re: Artifical Horizon (Alex Peterson)
6. 05:35 AM - Re: Artifical Horizon (James Clark)
7. 05:48 AM - Glueing canopies (Glen Matejcek)
8. 06:54 AM - Re: deburring inside of ribs (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
9. 06:55 AM - Re: Garmin Avionics Trays (linn walters)
10. 07:13 AM - Re: CYL high temp (Mark Doble)
11. 07:23 AM - Re: deburring inside of ribs (Folbrecht, Paul)
12. 07:33 AM - Re: Artifical Horizon (Bill VonDane)
13. 07:54 AM - Re: Glueing canopiesGlueing canopies (Karen and Robert Brown)
14. 07:55 AM - Re: deburring inside of ribs (George Neal E Capt HQ AU/XPRR)
15. 08:00 AM - Re: Artifical Horizon (chaztuna@adelphia.net)
16. 08:14 AM - Re: deburring inside of ribs (Dan Checkoway)
17. 08:14 AM - Re: Artifical Horizon (Bob C.)
18. 08:44 AM - Re: deburring inside of ribs (Folbrecht, Paul)
19. 09:10 AM - Deburring drill holes - WAS lightening holes. (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
20. 10:11 AM - Re: Artifical Horizon (Mauri Morin)
21. 10:23 AM - Re: Deburring drill holes - WAS lightening holes. (Ed Holyoke)
22. 10:45 AM - Re: Deburring drill holes - WAS lightening holes. (Rick Galati)
23. 10:47 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (JAMES BOWEN)
24. 11:02 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (Gerry Filby)
25. 11:35 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (Dale Ellis)
26. 11:39 AM - Re: Glueing canopies (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
27. 12:11 PM - Re: Glueing canopies (Mickey Coggins)
28. 12:51 PM - Re: Glueing canopies (Gerry Filby)
29. 01:35 PM - Re: Glueing canopies (Mickey Coggins)
30. 01:38 PM - garmin avionics trays ()
31. 01:48 PM - Re: Glueing canopies (Jim Jewell)
32. 02:12 PM - Re : Gluing Canopies (Martin Hone)
33. 03:02 PM - Re: Artifical Horizon (David Leonard)
34. 05:11 PM - Re: Glueing canopies (gert)
35. 05:18 PM - Re: Artifical Horizon (Bill Schlatterer)
36. 07:51 PM - Re: Artifical Horizon (REHughes)
37. 08:36 PM - Re: Glueing canopies (Steven DiNieri)
38. 09:28 PM - Alt. High pressure elect. fuel pump (Paul Rice)
39. 11:07 PM - Re: deburring inside of ribs (Michael D. Cencula)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro. Something
solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a standard instrument
hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric Artificial Horizon.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Hi, the dynon I believe fits in a 3 1/8" hole although it overhangs the hole
considerably.
As a matter of interest, do or did you never switch the gyro off before
doing aero's? and another one: how much G would you pull in a regular
session?
Marcel
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
> Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
> standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
> Artificial Horizon.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
>
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
It was always on. I told it doesn't make any difference. Even caged there is
still ware on bearings when doing acro.
I knew about the Dynon but it overlaps.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4911#4911
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Maybe install blanks over the holes at 3 and 9 o'clock, and keep your
favorite backup guages at 5, 6 and 7 o'clock? Or would the Dynon overlap
all of the remaining five holes?
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Steve Glasgow said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> It was always on. I told it doesn't make any difference. Even caged
> there is still ware on bearings when doing acro.
>
> I knew about the Dynon but it overlaps.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4911#4911
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow"
> <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> It was always on. I told it doesn't make any difference.
> Even caged there is still ware on bearings when doing acro.
>
> I knew about the Dynon but it overlaps.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
Think about it: it is not reasonable to think that a non-spinning gyro
tumbling in its gimbals does as much damage as when a spinning gyro tries to
drive through the gimbal limits. Tremendous forces can be generated when a
spinning gyro causes the gimbles to hit their limits. Caging a spinning
gyro is probably slightly better, but still generates brutal forces compared
to a non spinning gyro.
The only people I've heard say that spinning vs non-spinning is the same
thing are those who make a living repairing them. They are going to have to
put forth a very detailed argument before they convince me.
Does anyone on this list remember the forearm exercising device called the
DynaBee?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 705 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Clark <jclarkmail@gmail.com>
Steve,
As mentioned, the Dynon D10 and D10A fit in the hole and overhang a little.
You might also consider the offerings from Trutrak.
Not EXACTLY an artificial horizon .... but might do what you want and more.
See these pages ... http://www.steinair.com/instruments.htm or
http://www.steinair.com/trutrak.htm
or these ...
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/new_products.html or
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/trutrak_autopilots.html
James
On 1/18/06, Steve Glasgow <willfly@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a
> gyro. Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits
> in a standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen
> Electric Artificial Horizon.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D4899#4899
>
>
--
This is an alternate email. Please continue to email me at
james@nextupventures.com .
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Time: 05:37:37 AM PST US
Hi Charlie-
I got what Rob recommended- Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner,
and the Sika
209 primer
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: deburring inside of ribs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 1/17/06 10:25:03 PM Central Standard Time,
PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com writes:
> What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes?
>>>>
Hi Paul-
Take a look here:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4865
Worked great for me!
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips N51PW - 275 hrs
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Garmin Avionics Trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Dean, when I install a radio stack, I attach all the trays together on
the bench, without the instrument panel, and do all the wiring as a
'set'. I attach them together with aluminum angles down the sides, both
front and rear. The front angles are also used to bolt (screw) the
radio stack to the instrument panel. The cutout in the panel is as wide
as the widest tray ..... and don't forget to measure the bezels!!!
You're worried about a rather insignificant (in the great scheme of
things) width difference, but If you're intent on addressing the issue,
use shims.
I typically install my 'electronics' fuses or ckt breakers on a little
subpanel that resides below the radio stack (if room exists .... if not
it's mounted where it can be removed along with the radio stack) so all
I need to connect the stack to the airframe is power, ground, mike
audio, mike key, and headset. I do this through a Molex connector, with
the exception of the power/ground, and I make sure they're easily
accessible.
The whole idea behind the 'totally removeable' unit is to be able to set
EVERYTHING up on the bench for troubleshooting purposes. Almost all of
the 'accessories' such as transponder encoder, CDI, and stuff like that
are usually connectorized and easily disconnected.
If I can't get to the back of the instrument panel easily, then the
angles on the front are turned around and the angles mount on the face
of the panel. In this case, the rear angles are replaced by flat stock
and the panel hole is sized to allow removal aft after unhooking the few
cables that exist.
Hope this helps rather than confuses!!!
Linn
do not archive
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>
>Ok folks ya got my attention:
>
>Since I'm just about to mount my trays I have a few questions. I bought an
>Apollo (UPS Aviation Technologies) stack (Audio, SL-30, GX-65 and SL-70)
>about a year or two before they merged with Garmin. Now I'm finally
>finishing the panel and about to install the trays. My ruler says that 3 of
>the trays are exactly 6 1/4 inches wide. The audio panel tray however
>(SL-10MS, actually a PS Engineering PMA 6000 with Apollo bezel), is about
>1/32 wider. So....we been discussing the 6.25 vs 6.3 inch width issue here
>and I obviously can't install the mounting rails at 6.25 inches apart or I'm
>not going to be able to fit the audio panel in.
>
SNIP
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Enjoying systems install after spending (8+) years as a tin-smith.
>
>
>Time: 08:57:59 AM PST US
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin avionics trays
>From: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
>I just acquired an all Garmin stack - GMA 340, GTX 327, SL40 -
>all 3 trays are exactly 6.25"
>
>g
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>>
>>I can verify that it's not "fixed"...doubt that it ever will be
>>except that maybe new models coming out will be more standardized.
>>
>>My PS Engineering 8000, GNS480, SL-30, and GTX330 Transponder
>>had at least one or two of them that were 6.3 while
>>the others were 6.25. All of it was new this year.
>>Nothing was a major problem. The biggest problem I had, which
>>is a tip any GNS480 buyer should remember, is make sure you
>>mount your GNS480 tray at least flush with the face of your
>>panel, if not out a couple thousandths. The GNS 480 is
>>notorious for not seating all the way into it's tray, and your
>>serial communications won't work. I tried for 2 nights to
>>get my stuff to talk, and after talking to Stark and getting
>>that tip, I moved my tray aft a tad and then pushed the radio
>>in as hard as I could...problem solved.
>>
>>
>>Tim Olson -- RV-10
>>
>>
>>
>>Greg Young wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
>>>
>>>The issue, at least my experience, was that the PS Engineering tray
>>>(PS7000 = SL15) was wider that the "real" UPSAT/Garmin units (SL-30,
>>>SL-70, GX-60 for me) and necessitated spacers for the non-PS units. The
>>>mounting holes spacing (fore-aft) is not the same either but that's
>>>really minor. I don't think the Garmin audio panel (GMA340??) is made by
>>>PS Engineering so it may not have the same issue.
>>>
>>>Regards,
>>>Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
>>>RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
>>>Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: <erichweaver@cox.net>
>>>>
>>>>In researching my panel, I occcasionally have come across the
>>>>gripe that the Garmin avionics trays were non-standard in
>>>>that they were 6.3 inches wide instead of 6.25, and thus
>>>>required the use of washers if installed with other
>>>>non-Garmin components. I recently purchased the Garmin SL-40
>>>>transceiver and GTX-327 transponder. Measured the trays, and
>>>>both were 6.25, so it appears that this issue has been taken
>>>>care of. Thought I would pass this along to others
>>>>contemplating panel choices.
>>>>
>>>>regards
>>>>
>>>>Erich Weaver
>>>>
>>>>
>
>==========================================================
>Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Doble" <mark.doble@mddesigns.com>
Have you calibrated your thermocouple sensors?
You can get calibration charts from here....
EGT
http://www.stratologic.net/Downloads/Type%20K%20Chart.pdf
CHT
http://www.stratologic.net/Downloads/Type%20J%20Chart.pdf
i've seen some instruments off by 30-40degrees
I have a plug-in thermocouple calibrator that can easily checkout the
instrument...i've used it on a few instruments and it has been great to
track down inaccuracies.
Also, you can use an iron and a high temp thermometer if you cant generate
the required millivolts easily.
Walmart or some other store sells a digital cooking thermometer that is
fairly accurate that you can use as a reference up to 392F and is accurate
to 1-2F (you can check this out by ice bath and boiling water...easy
references). There is another model that is good up to 260C (or 500
something F).
At least would give some confidence in the instrument and would be a good
starting point.
regards,
Mark.
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | deburring inside of ribs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
Thanks, but I meant drill holes, not lightening holes. Those are easy
enough to do.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 8:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: deburring inside of ribs
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 1/17/06 10:25:03 PM Central Standard Time,
PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com writes:
> What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes?
>>>>
Hi Paul-
Take a look here:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4865
Worked great for me!
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips N51PW - 275 hrs
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
PC Flight Systems makes a 2 1/4" solid state horizon gyro... The only one I
can think of that is stand alone at the moment...
http://www.pcflightsystems.com/
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
www.rv8a.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 3:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
Artificial Horizon.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopiesGlueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
<Guys, while we're on the subject, does anyone have any data on the weight
penalty, if any, of gluing as apposed to riveting? There's the obvious
advantage of less probability of cracking, but for some (those in warmer
climes) that's less of a concern.>
I used just under 2 tubes of Sikaflex 295UV to do the frame/canopy as well as all
the canopy skirts...so my guess is would be just under 2 pounds weight penalty.
BTW, the reason they started doing this in Africa several years ago had
more to do with heat than cold, but I suppose it's the daily temp spread that
causes the most trouble.
Bob Brown
RV7A - laying up plenum
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | deburring inside of ribs |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt HQ AU/XPRR <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Paul -
Look here: http://www.appaero.com/Pictures/Fuselage/Bulkheads/DSC05205.JPG
And here:
http://www.kitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=ngeorge&project=27&category
=0&log=8495&row=28
Neal
Do not archive
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
Cc: RAS <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: chaztuna@adelphia.net
Marcel,
Your instruments must be on 3.75" centers to allow the installation of the Dynon
D10 (surface mount). Using a tighter grouping will cause the edge of the Dynon
(it protrudes .5" out from the panel) to block your view of the neighboring
instruments.
Charlie Kuss
---- RAS <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
>
> Hi, the dynon I believe fits in a 3 1/8" hole although it overhangs the hole
> considerably.
> As a matter of interest, do or did you never switch the gyro off before
> doing aero's? and another one: how much G would you pull in a regular
> session?
>
> Marcel
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:13 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
> >
> > Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
> > Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
> > standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
> > Artificial Horizon.
> >
> > --------
> > Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> > Cappy's Toy
> > RV-8 N123SG
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: deburring inside of ribs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I'm assuming you're talking about rib flange rivet holes in areas too tight
to get a conventional deburring tool or a large drill bit. Just run a
scotch brite pad over the holes, then prime 'em (if you weren't priming
everything already) since you will have removed alclad.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 7:22 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: deburring inside of ribs
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul"
> <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
>
> Thanks, but I meant drill holes, not lightening holes. Those are easy
> enough to do.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Fiveonepw@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 8:53 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: deburring inside of ribs
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 1/17/06 10:25:03 PM Central Standard Time,
> PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com writes:
>
>> What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes?
>
>
>>>>>
>
> Hi Paul-
>
> Take a look here:
>
> http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=4865
>
> Worked great for me!
>
>>From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips N51PW - 275 hrs
>
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Did you turn off the AH while done your acro??
Thanks,
Bob
On 1/18/06, Steve Glasgow <willfly@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a
> gyro. Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits
> in a standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen
> Electric Artificial Horizon.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D4899#4899
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | deburring inside of ribs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
Stick it in a die grinder -- I shoulda thought of that.
But I'd imagine you want to have a real light finger deburring that way.
Thanx.
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of George Neal E
Capt HQ AU/XPRR
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 9:45 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: deburring inside of ribs
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt HQ AU/XPRR
<Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Paul -
Look here:
http://www.appaero.com/Pictures/Fuselage/Bulkheads/DSC05205.JPG
And here:
http://www.kitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=ngeorge&project=27&cate
gory
=0&log=8495&row=28
Neal
Do not archive
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Deburring drill holes - WAS lightening holes. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 1/18/06 9:25:57 AM Central Standard Time,
PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com writes:
> Thanks, but I meant drill holes, not lightening holes. Those are easy
> enough to do.
>
>>>
Allrighty, then- best thing I've found is a 3-flute countersink about 1/2"
diameter with a 1/4" shank. Get some stiff 1/4" I.D. rubber hose, cut off about
2", stick the countersink in one end and a 6" long 1/4" wooden dowl in the
other, and whirl away. The dowel makes a nice holder that is easily twirled
between your finger and thumb, and can be removed for those tight spots- leave
the hose on the countersink for some extra torque. Another thing I noticed is
that since the hose is never exactly straight, each cutting edge is at a
slightly different angle, making the hole a little "radiused" instead of just
countersunk. PLUS, it acts as a U-joint if necessary to clear obstructions.
Did umpteengagillion holes this way. Tried cordless drill, then screwdriver-
heavy and not sensitive enough and easy to go too deep. Next tried deburring
tool- too much work...
>From The Possumworks in TN
Mark
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mauri Morin" <maurv8@bresnan.net>
Check TruTrak http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/
They have a solid state device called " ADI ".
Fits 3 1/8 hole and includes a directional display as well.
Mauri Morin
Polson, MT
RV-8 Fuse
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 3:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
> Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
> standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
> Artificial Horizon.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
>
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Deburring drill holes - WAS lightening holes. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Another way is to take a threaded countersink bit and stick a piece of
nylon string through the hole. Burn the end of the string so that it
won't pull out of the hole. Wind the string around the body of the
countersink, hold the threaded end of the bit with a 1/4" or so
combination wrench so it can spin freely and pull the string. You can
put considerable pressure on the bit with a finger over end of the
wrench and it won't take more than a turn or two to remove the burr. I
usually get about three holes before I have to rewind the string. You
can get into very restricted spaces with this technique. If there's more
room behind the hole, you can thread the bit into a "spud" (an extension
meant to be chucked in a drill). It's a little easier to control and you
can use it on the front side of the hole too. Just chuck it in a drill
or cordless screw driver and turn it slowly. Ignore the string while
working from the front. One thing to learn is to not over deburr. It's
easy to make it like a little countersink and that's not what you want.
Sometimes stubborn little boogers can be picked off with a fingernail.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 9:09 AM
Subject: RV-List: Deburring drill holes - WAS lightening holes.
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 1/18/06 9:25:57 AM Central Standard Time,
PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com writes:
> Thanks, but I meant drill holes, not lightening holes. Those are easy
> enough to do.
>
>>>
Allrighty, then- best thing I've found is a 3-flute countersink about
1/2"
diameter with a 1/4" shank. Get some stiff 1/4" I.D. rubber hose, cut
off about
2", stick the countersink in one end and a 6" long 1/4" wooden dowl in
the
other, and whirl away. The dowel makes a nice holder that is easily
twirled
between your finger and thumb, and can be removed for those tight spots-
leave
the hose on the countersink for some extra torque. Another thing I
noticed is
that since the hose is never exactly straight, each cutting edge is at a
slightly different angle, making the hole a little "radiused" instead of
just
countersunk. PLUS, it acts as a U-joint if necessary to clear
obstructions.
Did umpteengagillion holes this way. Tried cordless drill, then
screwdriver-
heavy and not sensitive enough and easy to go too deep. Next tried
deburring
tool- too much work...
>From The Possumworks in TN
Mark
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Deburring drill holes - WAS lightening holes. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Then again, .....you could simply twirl a common #12 (and larger) drill bit with
your fingers and thumb to deburr holes.........that works just fine and the
burrs won't know any different. BTW, with a deft touch, that 3 flute countersink
is just the ticket for countersinking fiberglass.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
[/quote]
Allrighty, then- best thing I've found is a 3-flute countersink about 1/2"
diameter with a 1/4" shank. Get some stiff 1/4" I.D. rubber hose, cut off about
2", stick the countersink in one end and a 6" long 1/4" wooden dowl in the other,
and whirl away. The dowel makes a nice holder that is easily twirled between
your finger and thumb, and can be removed for those tight spots- leave the
hose on the countersink for some extra torque. Another thing I noticed is
that since the hose is never exactly straight, each cutting edge is at a slightly
different angle, making the hole a little "radiused" instead of just countersunk.
PLUS, it acts as a U-joint if necessary to clear obstructions. Did umpteengagillion
holes this way. Tried cordless drill, then screwdriver- heavy
and not sensitive enough and easy to go too deep. Next tried deburring tool-
too much work...
> From The Possumworks in TN
> Mark
>
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=5039#5039
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr@hotmail.com>
Hello Sikaflex users. Did you purchase the black or white sika 295 uv? Does
it make a difference? Thanks,
Jim Bowen
>From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 06:18:18 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
>
>On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> > Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
>
> >From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
>engine is your friend):
>
>---
>Hi Mickey,
>
>I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the Sika
>209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
>Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a boat
>builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
>
>I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than
>case
>lots. They also take credit card orders
>over the phone.
>
>They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
>
>Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by ground
>so it could take a while to receive depending
>upon where you live.
>
>If you get some let me know what you think about it.
>
>Jim Ellis
>finishing canopy
>RV9-A tip up
>---
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
Hey Fellow Builders,
So happens that I'm just embarking on the canopy process and
glueing _sounds_ a whole lot more user friendly than drilling,
cracking, scratching, tearing hair out.
Has anyone documented any part of the glue approach on their
website ... would love to get a sense of your experiences,
pitfalls, pros and cons ...
g
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr@hotmail.com>
>
> Hello Sikaflex users. Did you purchase the black or white sika
> 295 uv? Does
> it make a difference? Thanks,
>
> Jim Bowen
>
>
> >From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
> >Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 06:18:18 -0800
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
> >
> >On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wrote:
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> > > Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
> >
> > >From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
> >engine is your friend):
> >
> >---
> >Hi Mickey,
> >
> >I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the Sika
> >209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
> >Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a boat
> >builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
> >
> >I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than
> >case
> >lots. They also take credit card orders
> >over the phone.
> >
> >They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
> >
> >Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by ground
> >so it could take a while to receive depending
> >upon where you live.
> >
> >If you get some let me know what you think about it.
> >
> >Jim Ellis
> >finishing canopy
> >RV9-A tip up
> >---
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Ellis <rv8builder@earthlink.net>
It is my understanding that the white material is a caulking material and does
not have adhesive qualities. I would check with vendor and/or manufacturer to
be sure.
Dale
Building a RV-8 in SC
-----Original Message-----
>From: JAMES BOWEN <jabowenjr@hotmail.com>
>Sent: Jan 18, 2006 1:47 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr@hotmail.com>
>
>Hello Sikaflex users. Did you purchase the black or white sika 295 uv? Does
>it make a difference? Thanks,
>
>Jim Bowen
>
>
>>From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>>Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 06:18:18 -0800
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
>>
>>On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wrote:
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>> > Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
>>
>> >From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
>>engine is your friend):
>>
>>---
>>Hi Mickey,
>>
>>I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the Sika
>>209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
>>Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a boat
>>builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
>>
>>I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than
>>case
>>lots. They also take credit card orders
>>over the phone.
>>
>>They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
>>
>>Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by ground
>>so it could take a while to receive depending
>>upon where you live.
>>
>>If you get some let me know what you think about it.
>>
>>Jim Ellis
>>finishing canopy
>>RV9-A tip up
>>---
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>>>>
what kind of plane/canopy?
Mark - do not archive
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Here is a link to my experiences:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20050614184749626
There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
Mickey
> Has anyone documented any part of the glue approach on their
> website ... would love to get a sense of your experiences,
> pitfalls, pros and cons ...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
Many thanks Mickey - this looks like a very doable process and
the results look great !
I'm building a 9 - any thoughts on wether the larger dimensions
of my canopy might present additional problems ?
g
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Here is a link to my experiences:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20050614184749626
>
> There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
>
> Mickey
>
> > Has anyone documented any part of the glue approach on their
> > website ... would love to get a sense of your experiences,
> > pitfalls, pros and cons ...
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
I really can't say if the 9 will be very different. The
guy that introduced me to this process had a 6 slider,
which I assume is not very different from a 9.
If you look here: http://www.vansairforce.net/ and
click down about one screen, you can see two pictures
of someone with a 6/7/9 slider canopy that has been
glued. I have no idea who is the owner of this canopy,
but you can see one of the "challenges" with the glue -
keeping the final finish looking perfect. It's harder
than it looks, because sikaflex 295 UV dries pretty quickly.
Here are the direct links to the pictures, for the
archive:
http://www.vansairforce.net/delete_eventually/IronFlight_Visit/IMG_0373.JPG
http://www.vansairforce.net/delete_eventually/IronFlight_Visit/IMG_0374.JPG
Best of luck, take a lot of pictures, and put them
on your website!
Best regards,
Mickey
Gerry Filby wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
> Many thanks Mickey - this looks like a very doable process and
> the results look great !
>
> I'm building a 9 - any thoughts on wether the larger dimensions
> of my canopy might present additional problems ?
>
> g
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>
>>Here is a link to my experiences:
>>
>> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20050614184749626
>>
>>There are 6 articles in total on the canopy.
>>
>>Mickey
>>
>>
>>>Has anyone documented any part of the glue approach on their
>>>website ... would love to get a sense of your experiences,
>>>pitfalls, pros and cons ...
>>
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | garmin avionics trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: <erichweaver@cox.net>
Dan P.:
Do what we all do when we dont know what to do - look it up on Checkoway's web
site to see how he did it. C'mon, get with the program and pay attention! : )
Here's a link to get you close - there is probably more to be found using his web
site search tool
http://www.rvproject.com/20030613.html
Erich Weaver
RV-7a, firewall forward
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Dale,
I think the correct Sikaflex to use might be #291
When installing the slider canopy to the frame on my 6a I used 6/32 screws
instead of rivets. I used a Targa strip along the centre and the forward
edge to spread the screws compression load. I did not use any sealant during
assembly. Rivets scared me.
The result was acceptable but had issues that needed attention;
When moved, the slider made creaking noises caused by the lack of sealant
between the frame and the Plexiglas. Clearly the frame was changing shape
when any pressure was applied to open or close it. Sometimes the forward
edge of the slider contacted the fibre-glas edge around the windshield.
I contacted Sikaflex and they advised using Sikaflex-291 a fast cure marine
adhesive/sealant and bedding compound.
We applied masking tape and paper to keep things tidy to both sides of all
the reachable areas where the tube frame and the Plexiglas meet. we then
laid in a bead of the Sikaflex followed by a dry finger tip to force the
sealant into the crevice and also leave a nice looking filet.
When all was done I closed the canopy and latched it. I left it to set up
that way for a few days. We then taped and papered up the outside areas
where the aluminiun edge and the Plexiglas come together. The tape was
applied right to the edge of the aluminium. On the Plexiglas the tape was
applied leaving about a 1/8" gap.
When all prep was ready we applied tank sealant and used a popsicle stick
afterwards to create a good looking fillet.
The amount of Sikaflex used was about two thirds of a tube. Some amount of
this volume was removed during the fillet forming process. I think that half
a tube actually ended up staying on the canopy. This includes a small amount
used on the rear side of the roll bar to tidy up the look and add a little
strength there.
The time spent doing the taping and the Sikaflex was about 3 hours.
The end result is the canopy looks great inside and out and it works great.
No squeaks, feels very solid in use. It does not make contact with the
windshield edge on closing.
The 5 or six ounces of added sealant (each tube contains 10.5 ounces) where
well worth the effort.
The aircraft (Chubby?!) is painted and is being put together in the hangar.
Should be ready for flight as the weather warms this coming spring.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dale Ellis" <rv8builder@earthlink.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dale Ellis <rv8builder@earthlink.net>
>
> It is my understanding that the white material is a caulking material and
> does not have adhesive qualities. I would check with vendor and/or
> manufacturer to be sure.
>
> Dale
> Building a RV-8 in SC
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Cc: <gerf@gerf.com>
| Subject: | Re : Gluing Canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
Those that are working with the side x side versions ( RV-6's and 7's ) may
like to take a look at Billy Water's site...
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/bbcanopy/gluingyourcanopy.htm
Regards
Martin in Oz
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Leonard <wdleonard@gmail.com>
The Bluemountain EIFS lite G3 will fit in a standard hole (I did an easy
retro-fit). But it has the same problems with protruding and overlapping as
the Dynon. It is a little more money with alot more features.
Dave Leonard
On 1/18/06, chaztuna@adelphia.net <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: chaztuna@adelphia.net
>
> Marcel,
> Your instruments must be on 3.75" centers to allow the installation of the
> Dynon D10 (surface mount). Using a tighter grouping will cause the edge of
> the Dynon (it protrudes .5" out from the panel) to block your view of the
> neighboring instruments.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> ---- RAS <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "RAS" <
> deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
> >
> > Hi, the dynon I believe fits in a 3 1/8" hole although it overhangs the
> hole
> > considerably.
> > As a matter of interest, do or did you never switch the gyro off before
> > doing aero's? and another one: how much G would you pull in a regular
> > session?
> >
> > Marcel
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 10:13 AM
> > Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <
> willfly@carolina.rr.com>
> > >
> > > Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
> > > Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in
> a
> > > standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen
> Electric
> > > Artificial Horizon.
> > >
> > > --------
> > > Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> > > Cappy's Toy
> > > RV-8 N123SG
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D4899#4899
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
Sikaflex advises to use the black as it has a much better UV tolerance,
also, u have to maintain a minimum gap between frame and canopee for the
sikaflex to work. According to the lad i talked to, if u do not allow
for a gap, the sikaflex will eventually rip from expansion differences
between plexi and frame.
I also got from Jamestown as they sell piecemeal.
JAMES BOWEN wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr@hotmail.com>
>
>Hello Sikaflex users. Did you purchase the black or white sika 295 uv? Does
>it make a difference? Thanks,
>
>Jim Bowen
>
>
>
>
>>From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Glueing canopies
>>Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2006 06:18:18 -0800
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
>>
>>On 5:29:13 2006-01-17 Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>>> Can you list the exact products to use for gluing the canopies?
>>>
>>>
>>>From an email to this list, in November of 2004 (the Matronics search
>>engine is your friend):
>>
>>---
>>Hi Mickey,
>>
>>I purchased the Sikaflex 295UV adhesive, the Sika 226 cleaner, and the Sika
>>209 primer from Jamestown Distributors.
>>Their phone number is 800 423-0030 (also 401 253-3840) . They are a boat
>>builder supply store located in Rhode Island.
>>
>>I have had good service from them, and they sell this stuff in less than
>>case
>>lots. They also take credit card orders
>>over the phone.
>>
>>They also have a web page www.jamestowndistributors.com
>>
>>Because some of these items are flammable they have to be shipped by ground
>>so it could take a while to receive depending
>>upon where you live.
>>
>>If you get some let me know what you think about it.
>>
>>Jim Ellis
>>finishing canopy
>>RV9-A tip up
>>---
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
This is probably what you are looking for. Comes in 2 1/4 or 3 1/8.
http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsinstruments.html
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Glasgow
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 4:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
Artificial Horizon.
--------
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
Cappy's Toy
RV-8 N123SG
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Artifical Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: "REHughes" <hawk@digisys.net>
The original poster was looking for an Artificial Horizon, and I presume
that means he wants an instrument that displays aircraft attitude, ideally
capable of displaying 360 deg in both pitch and roll. As discussed in Doug
Reeve's Vans Air Force forum and probably in the RV-List archives, the
TruTrak ADI can best be conceptualized as a Turn Coordinator with a
centrally-placed VSI scale. Like any TC, it is a useful instrument, but the
TT ADI does not display any attitude data in either pitch or roll.
Hawkeye Hughes
RV-3 / Skyote
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer"
> <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
>
> This is probably what you are looking for. Comes in 2 1/4 or 3 1/8.
>
>
> http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com/ttfsinstruments.html
>
>
> Bill S
> 7a Ark
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Glasgow
> Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 4:13 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Artifical Horizon
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Does anyone know of an Artificial Horizon that does not use a gyro.
> Something solid state similar to the new EFIS systems but that fits in a
> standard instrument hole. Too much acro has killed my Ray Allen Electric
> Artificial Horizon.
>
> --------
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> Cappy's Toy
> RV-8 N123SG
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4899#4899
>
>
>
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Glueing canopies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
--> RV-List message posted by: "JAMES BOWEN" <jabowenjr@hotmail.com>
Hello Sikaflex users. Did you purchase the black or white sika 295 uv? Does
it make a difference? Thanks,
Here's a cut and paste from sikaflex... Steve dinieri
Application:
. SikaflexR-295 UV black is intended to be used as an adhesive and/or
sealant in bonding applications for:
- polycarbonate
- acrylic (PMAA)
Use in conjunction with SikaR- Primer 209. Always seek the manufacturer's
advice prior
to bonding these plastics that are prone to stress cracking.
. SikaflexR-295 UV white is intended to be used as a sealant in open joints
exposed to
sunlight for sealing:
- glass
- ceramics
- metals
- many plastics
- fiberglass
- many types of paint
Use in conjunction with SikaR-Cleaner 226 or SikaR-Aktivator. Refer to the
Surface Preparation Guidelines for further information.
Surface reparation for acrylic (PMAA) or Polycarbonate:
. Scuff the bond area with sand paper or a Scotchbrite pad.
. Degrease the bond area with SikaR-Cleaner 226 (drying time 10 minutes)
. Apply SikaR-Primer 209 in one continuous, homogeneous coat with a brush or
dauber (drying time 20 minutes at 75oF). If there is an abrasion/scratch
resistant coating, it must be completelyremoved with sandpaper (80x - 120x)
prior to surface preparation (i.e. Margard coating on Lexan). Organic
windows with special tinting or coating should be pretested for adhesion.
Refer to the Surface Preparation Guidelines or Sika's Technical Service
Department for further information.
Adhesive Application:
Sikaflex-295 UV should be applied in a triangular bead through an
appropriately
cut nozzle. The nozzle cut dimensions and the number of beads applied are
dependent
upon the required width and thickness of the adhesive bead in the final
assembly.
Width: The adhesive width is dependant upon the constraints of the assembly
(available
glazing area and degree of compression). The joint width must be a minimum
of
3/8".
Substrate and Working Conditions:
. During these operations, the bonding surfaces must be free of dirt, debris
and standing moisture.
. Keep the work area shielded from direct sunlight and temperature extremes;
apply
system at a maximum ambient temperature of 95oF.
. Joint thickness can be maintained using self-adhesive rubber spacers of
Shore A 30 hardness.
. Once the window is installed, it must be braced for at least 12 hours.
. During assembly/bracing , take care not to twist or bend the window
excessively.
Thickness: For bonding on metal or composite framing, the adhesive thickness
is dependant upon the longest dimension of the window.
Limitations:
- Do not apply on frozen surface or through standing water or under water.
- Do not apply over silicones or in the presence of curing silicones.
- Avoid contact with alcohol and alcoholcontaining solvents during cure.
- Allow minimum of 1 week full cure prior to total water immersion
situations.
- Maximum chlorine exposure 2.5 ppm.
- Do not use as a deck seam sealant.
- Do not use for bonding glass.
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Alt. High pressure elect. fuel pump |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
Hi all,
I searched the archieves, but could not find an cheaper alternative the airflow
perf. pump Vans sells for the fuel injected engines. Anyone know of a viable
alternative to this.
Thanks,
Paul
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: deburring inside of ribs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael D. Cencula" <matronics@cencula.com>
Well, today I was facing the same problem deburring the holes in the rudder
ribs near the trailing edge. The flanges get really close on the last few
holes. I ended up making this doohickey out of a nail. You stick the shank
through the hole from the inside of the flange, then grab on the shank with
your cordless drill. A couple rotations of the drill (in slow speed) and
you've got a nicely deburred hole. Took me about 5 or 10 minutes to make the
thing and it can debur any hole where there's at least 5/16" between flanges.
http://www.cencula.com/nail_deburring_tool.jpg
Have fun,
Mike
On Tuesday January 17 2006 11:18 pm, Folbrecht, Paul wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul"
> <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
>
> What tool do I want for deburring the inside of rib flange holes? The
> avery swivel doesn't do it.
>
> Maybe I could stick the head in the end of the 90-degree drill kit... hmmm.
>
> ~Paul
> ~9A QB #1176 Setting 1st rivets on h. stab tomorrow maybe...
>
<snip>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|