Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:51 AM - Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting (Kelly Patterson)
2. 05:54 AM - Re: Sikaflex Tip-up (Wayne)
3. 06:15 AM - Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting (Jim Carlton)
4. 07:33 AM - Re: Need suggestion for book on fiberglass (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
5. 08:00 AM - Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting (Brian Alley)
6. 08:54 AM - Canopy shade (Bert Murillo)
7. 08:57 AM - Torque for Delrin Seals (DAVID REEL)
8. 09:57 AM - Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting (Mickey Coggins)
9. 10:04 AM - Re: Canopy shade (John Furey)
10. 10:47 AM - Re: Canopy shade (Ralph E. Capen)
11. 11:00 AM - Re: Canopy shade (dsvs@comcast.net)
12. 11:08 AM - Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting (Brian Alley)
13. 11:45 AM - Re: Canopy shade (Smitty)
14. 11:47 AM - Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting (Mickey Coggins)
15. 12:10 PM - Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting (Alan & Linda Daniels)
16. 12:30 PM - Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting (Chuck Jensen)
17. 12:56 PM - Transition training in a -6A or -7A near Iowa? (czechsix@juno.com)
18. 01:52 PM - Re: Seats (bdjones1965)
19. 02:17 PM - Re: Gluing Canopy RV9A Tip-up (JEllis9847@aol.com)
20. 03:02 PM - Re: Transition training in a -6A or -7A near Iowa? (John Danielson)
21. 04:20 PM - Re: Canopy shade (rv6fly@bresnan.net)
22. 04:47 PM - Re: Canopy shade (Vincent Osburn)
23. 04:58 PM - Re: Canopy shade (Vincent Osburn)
24. 05:08 PM - Re: Transition training in a -6A or -7A near Iowa? (Alex Peterson)
25. 05:48 PM - Troubling Airworthiness Directive... (Matt Johnson)
26. 06:03 PM - Flight training (Phil)
27. 06:07 PM - Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... (Alex Peterson)
28. 06:25 PM - Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... (Ron Lee)
29. 06:33 PM - Re: Flight training (Alex Peterson)
30. 06:52 PM - Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... (Matt Johnson)
31. 06:57 PM - Re: B&C alternator clearance (dick martin)
32. 06:59 PM - Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... (D.Bristol)
33. 07:09 PM - Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... (eddyfernan@aol.com)
34. 07:09 PM - Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... (Larry Bowen)
35. 08:03 PM - Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
Here's a good primer on fiberglass work:
http://rv8a.tripod.com/fiberglass.html
I also recommend the Smooth Prime pinhole filler and got a gallon from
Sacramento Sky Ranch (best price).
One gallon was enough for 2 RV's. Spray it on, the roller method is too
uneven.
I just finished painting my plane and would suggest both of the Sam James
videos. They are now for sale.
Fiberglass 101 $20 incl. shipping
Painting 101 $20 incl. shipping
Both for $35
Drop me an email off list. Kbob at cox.net
Kelly Patterson
N716K RV-6A
PHX, AZ
Final Assembly, ready to weigh
Time: 03:39:08 PM PST US
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Need suggestion for book on fiberglass
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Does anyone know of a good book on how to do the fiberglass work that we
typically do on RV's? Im tired of guessing at every step and bugging
everybody on this list.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
235 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Sikaflex Tip-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
I used Sikaflex for attaching the plexi on my tip up as well as using it as a fairing
at the front of the windshield.
Pretty straight forward just go to their web site
http://www.sikaindustry.ca/ind/ind-mar/ind-mar-window/ind-mar-window-instal.htm
and follow the instructions. Basically its prep, prime, apply and clamp.
Drop me a line if you have specific questions.
Wayne
RV7a in final assembly
C-GOYA
--------
RV 7 eh? C-GOYA
Claresholm, AB (CEJ4)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=6955#6955
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Carlton <jcarlton3@cox.net>
On Thursday 26 January 2006 08:50 am, Kelly Patterson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
>
>
> Here's a good primer on fiberglass work:
>
> http://rv8a.tripod.com/fiberglass.html
>
> I also recommend the Smooth Prime pinhole filler and got a gallon from
> Sacramento Sky Ranch (best price).
> One gallon was enough for 2 RV's. Spray it on, the roller method is too
> uneven.
>
> I just finished painting my plane and would suggest both of the Sam James
> videos. They are now for sale.
> Fiberglass 101 $20 incl. shipping
> Painting 101 $20 incl. shipping
> Both for $35
> Drop me an email off list. Kbob at cox.net
>
> Kelly Patterson
Kelly,
Still have the videos? I would be interested.
Jim
Paypal? check?
Jim Carlton
7614 Chesterfield Ave
Parma, OH 44129
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Need suggestion for book on fiberglass |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Sam's video is not likely to win an Emmy, but he does know his stuff and it
is directly related to RVs.
On the book side, I'd recommend Zeke Smith's Understanding Composites for
knowledge about the materials and Burt Rutan's Moldless Composite Aircraft
Construction as a lab manual to practice your skills.
All are listed on this page
http://www.buildersbooks.com/composites1.htm
Thanks,
Andy
Builders' Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
>
> I have a video, I think it is called fiberglass 101. Good video, no
> wait, the information on the video is good... The acting leaves much to
> be desired.
>
> I think it runs around $20, or I could part with mine if I can find
> it... Let me know, -Mike
>
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 6:37 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Need suggestion for book on fiberglass
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> --> <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
>
> Does anyone know of a good book on how to do the fiberglass work that we
>
> typically do on RV's? Im tired of guessing at every step and bugging
> everybody on this list.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 235 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 2:59 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List:
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
>>
>> We'd just wake up in the morning, scratch ourselves, and see what food
>
>> we can find laying around.
>>
>>
>> Dang, I been doing this for 48 years, was I supposed to be doing
>> something different???
>>
>>
>> ;{)
>>
>> <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
>>
>>
>>
>> <META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version
>> 5.5.2658.2">
>> Re: RV-List:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> We'd just wake up in the morning, scratch ourselves, and see what food
>
>> we
>> can find laying around.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Dang, I been doing this for 48 years, was I supposed to be doing
>> something
>> different???
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ;{)
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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>
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>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
I just read the fiberglass section at http://rv8a.tripod.com/fiberglass.html. This is all very good information and should be very helpfull to those just beginning to dive into the composite parts that come with your kits. The one thing I didn't see is the prep work need on the part you are working on. When applying a reinforcement or patch to any composite part that is cured, it is necessary to prepare that surface for bonding. I sand usually with 80 grit until there is nothing shiny left, then remove the dust with compressed air. I don't recommend cleaning freshly prepared surfaces with acetone as this just contaminates the surface you are preparing. After wetting out the cloth as described, apply a small amount of resin to the prepared surface using a gloved finger or squeegee. There just isn't enough resin left in the laminate to wet the surface of the part. Use a squeegee or roller to force out any trapped air. I usuall remove any excess resin from the edges of the layup
by
tamping with a folded dry paper towel. The prep work on the part is just as important
as how the layup is prepared to ensure a proper bond.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bert Murillo <bertrv6@gmail.com>
Hi:
Can some one give me the e-mail address or phone number for the Rv builder
that
sells the" Canopy shade" unit...for the rv's? cannot remember his name
start with
K,, Kroeger?
Also, is there any other suppliers or options... Less expensive?
Bert
Rv6a
Do not archive
Message 7
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|
| Subject: | Torque for Delrin Seals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Does the use of these seals affect the torque used to tighten the fluid fitting
where they are employed? I use 240 in-lb on my -8 aluminum fitting where I'm
thinking of trying these.
Dave Reel - RV8A - Leaking
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> When applying a reinforcement or patch to any composite part that is
> cured, it is necessary to prepare that surface for bonding. I sand
> usually with 80 grit until there is nothing shiny left, then remove
> the dust with compressed air. I don't recommend cleaning freshly
> prepared surfaces with acetone as this just contaminates the surface
> you are preparing.
I've always cleaned it with Acetone to try to get any last
bit of dust off, but I'll take your advice next time!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
The best I have found are at walmart in the auto section. About $10 for a
pair that fold up and can be stuck in front, the side, the top, wherever
you need it. I would not use anything else.
John Furey
2 RV6A's - F1 in process
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
IIRC there was something called a KOGER sunshade.......memory......
-----Original Message-----
>From: John Furey <john@fureychrysler.com>
>Sent: Jan 26, 2006 1:10 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: Canopy shade
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
>The best I have found are at walmart in the auto section. About $10 for a
>pair that fold up and can be stuck in front, the side, the top, wherever
>you need it. I would not use anything else.
>
>John Furey
>2 RV6A's - F1 in process
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: dsvs@comcast.net
Available from the Vans catalogue
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
> IIRC there was something called a KOGER sunshade.......memory......
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: John Furey <john@fureychrysler.com>
> >Sent: Jan 26, 2006 1:10 PM
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RE: RV-List: Canopy shade
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
> >
> >The best I have found are at walmart in the auto section. About $10 for a
> >pair that fold up and can be stuck in front, the side, the top, wherever
> >you need it. I would not use anything else.
> >
> >John Furey
> >2 RV6A's - F1 in process
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
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>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
Mickey, This subject was discussed at length on the Lancair List. The Lancair manuals
recommend cleaning freshly prepped surfaces with acetone. Most builders
especially professional composite workers and engineers have performend test
that show improved bonding especially in peel strength when acetone or other solvents
are not used. If you apply fresh epoxy to the sanded area and work it
into the surface any minute particles of dust will mix with the epoxy just like
cotton flox or micro ballons and become a part of the structure. If you use
acetone, you are just making acetone soup and contaminating the freshly prepared
surface. Some amount of acetone residue will always remain in the surface and
weaken the bond.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy shade |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Smitty" <smitty@smittysrv.com>
Found it!
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/shade.html
Smittys RV-9A (Wings to be delivered Feb 6th!!!)
http://SmittysRV.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bert Murillo <bertrv6@gmail.com>
>
> Hi:
>
> Can some one give me the e-mail address or phone number for the Rv builder
> that
> sells the" Canopy shade" unit...for the rv's? cannot remember his name
> start with
> K,, Kroeger?
>
>
> Also, is there any other suppliers or options... Less expensive?
>
>
> Bert
>
> Rv6a
>
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> ... If you
> apply fresh epoxy to the sanded area and work it into the surface any
> minute particles of dust will mix with the epoxy just like cotton
> flox or micro ballons and become a part of the structure. If you use
> acetone, you are just making acetone soup and contaminating the
> freshly prepared surface. Some amount of acetone residue will always
> remain in the surface and weaken the bond.
Makes sense - I'm convinced. Thanks for the info.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
I seem to remember from my Lancair build that the study I recall said it
took something like 12 hours for acetone or MC to totally evaporate from
the surface. That could be speeded up with the use of a hair dryer or
other heat source. So if you have to remove contamination from a
critical bond area, don't get in a hurry.
Brian Alley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
>
>Mickey, This subject was discussed at length on the Lancair List. The Lancair
manuals recommend cleaning freshly prepped surfaces with acetone. Most builders
especially professional composite workers and engineers have performend test
that show improved bonding especially in peel strength when acetone or other
solvents are not used. If you apply fresh epoxy to the sanded area and work it
into the surface any minute particles of dust will mix with the epoxy just like
cotton flox or micro ballons and become a part of the structure. If you use
acetone, you are just making acetone soup and contaminating the freshly prepared
surface. Some amount of acetone residue will always remain in the surface
and weaken the bond.
>
>BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
>CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
>101 Caroline Circle
>Hurricane, WV 25526
>304-562-6800 home
>304-395-4932 cell
>
>How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass & Painting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Daniels,
That doesn't sound right. Given the high vapor pressure of acetone, it
should flash off almost immediately unless a semi-porous structure has
been totally saturated in acetone. The earlier post about the best
cleaner being no cleaner is certainly true. Whatever residual material
is left will always contaminate the interface and slightly reduce the
peel bonding when the new layer is applied.
Chuck
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan & Linda
Daniels
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Smooth Prime, Sam James Videos on Fiberglass &
Painting
--> RV-List message posted by: Alan & Linda Daniels <aldaniels@fmtc.com>
I seem to remember from my Lancair build that the study I recall said it
took something like 12 hours for acetone or MC to totally evaporate from
the surface. That could be speeded up with the use of a hair dryer or
other heat source. So if you have to remove contamination from a
critical bond area, don't get in a hurry.
Brian Alley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
>
>Mickey, This subject was discussed at length on the Lancair List. The
Lancair manuals recommend cleaning freshly prepped surfaces with
acetone. Most builders especially professional composite workers and
engineers have performend test that show improved bonding especially in
peel strength when acetone or other solvents are not used. If you apply
fresh epoxy to the sanded area and work it into the surface any minute
particles of dust will mix with the epoxy just like cotton flox or micro
ballons and become a part of the structure. If you use acetone, you are
just making acetone soup and contaminating the freshly prepared surface.
Some amount of acetone residue will always remain in the surface and
weaken the bond.
>
>BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
>CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
>101 Caroline Circle
>Hurricane, WV 25526
>304-562-6800 home
>304-395-4932 cell
>
>How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Transition training in a -6A or -7A near Iowa? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys,
AIG wants me to get 1 hour of dual with a CFI in a -6A or -7A prior to covering
my first flight in my -8A. Anybody know of a CFI in the midwest who could do
this? The closest person I'm aware of is Ben Johnson in Mesquite, TX. That's
quite a ways to travel for an hour of dual and I'd rather find someone closer
to home if possible (I'm in Cedar Rapids, Iowa).
Please let me know off-list at czechsix@juno.com
Thanks!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D ready to roll....
Guys,
AIG wants me to get 1 hour of dual with a CFI in a -6A or -7A prior to covering
my first flight in my -8A. Anybody know of a CFI in the midwest who could do
this? The closest person I'm aware of is Ben Johnson in Mesquite, TX. That's quite
a ways to travel for an hour of dual and I'd rather find someone closer to
home if possible (I'm in Cedar Rapids, Iowa).
Please let me know off-list at czechsix@juno.com
Thanks!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D ready to roll....
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
The least expensive way might be to buy from someone changing or upgrading. Maybe
salvage also. Could take some patience waiting for a deal to show up.
Next to that might be making your own. I flew on my home brew seats for several
years before upgrading to Orndorf (sp?) products. Wasn't too tough of a job.
Bought an old sewing machine and got after it.
The Van's foam may be the way to go now days. I bought and cut my own foam.
Bryan
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=7085#7085
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Gluing Canopy RV9A Tip-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: JEllis9847@aol.com
You can go to:
www.rvwiki.org/index.php?title=Main_Page
There are some pictures and installation notes under the "canopy
construction" subject that might answer
your question about using Sikaflex adhesive for a tip-up canopy.
Jim Ellis
RV9-A Tip-up
wheel pants
Message 20
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| Subject: | Transition training in a -6A or -7A near Iowa? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
Try Tom Irlbeck http://www.mnwing.org/cgi-bin/WebObjects/mnwing.woa ,
look under Transition Training.
I got quite a few hours from Tom. Great Guy. Former Top Gun Instructor.
John L. Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
czechsix@juno.com
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 1:54 PM
Subject: RV-List: Transition training in a -6A or -7A near Iowa?
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys,
AIG wants me to get 1 hour of dual with a CFI in a -6A or -7A prior to
covering my first flight in my -8A. Anybody know of a CFI in the
midwest who could do this? The closest person I'm aware of is Ben
Johnson in Mesquite, TX. That's quite a ways to travel for an hour of
dual and I'd rather find someone closer to home if possible (I'm in
Cedar Rapids, Iowa).
Please let me know off-list at czechsix@juno.com
Thanks!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D ready to roll....
Guys,
AIG wants me to get 1 hour of dual with a CFI in a -6A or -7A prior to
covering my first flight in my -8A. Anybody know of a CFI in the midwest
who could do this? The closest person I'm aware of is Ben Johnson in
Mesquite, TX. That's quite a ways to travel for an hour of dual and I'd
rather find someone closer to home if possible (I'm in Cedar Rapids,
Iowa).
Please let me know off-list at czechsix@juno.com
Thanks!
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D ready to roll....
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy shade |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly@bresnan.net
John Furey wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
>The best I have found are at walmart in the auto section. About $10 for a
>pair that fold up and can be stuck in front, the side, the top, wherever
>you need it. I would not use anything else.
>
>John Furey
>2 RV6A's - F1 in process
>
>
This sun shade material also comes in handy for sealing out moisture:
covering fuel caps , sealing canopy/fuselage joints (if you don't have a
canopy cover) and sealing NACA vents on taildraggers.
Do not archive
Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY
--
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Canopy shade |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Osburn" <flyby41@earthlink.net>
It's Gauge as I remember from air conditioning school. Because most
gauges will show "0" at standard atmospheric pressure which is really
around 14 (something) psi at sea level and 29.92 inches of mercury.
> [Original Message]
> From: <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 1/26/2006 4:27:38 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy shade
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly@bresnan.net
>
> John Furey wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
> >
> >The best I have found are at walmart in the auto section. About $10 for a
> >pair that fold up and can be stuck in front, the side, the top, wherever
> >you need it. I would not use anything else.
> >
> >John Furey
> >2 RV6A's - F1 in process
> >
> >
> This sun shade material also comes in handy for sealing out moisture:
> covering fuel caps , sealing canopy/fuselage joints (if you don't have a
> canopy cover) and sealing NACA vents on taildraggers.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY
>
>
> --
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy shade |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Osburn" <flyby41@earthlink.net>
Sorry about this dud answer, no relevance here but a brilliant answer to a
different question. Duh!
do not archive
> [Original Message]
> From: Vincent Osburn <flyby41@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 1/26/2006 4:54:04 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy shade
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Osburn" <flyby41@earthlink.net>
>
>
>
> It's Gauge as I remember from air conditioning school. Because most
> gauges will show "0" at standard atmospheric pressure which is really
> around 14 (something) psi at sea level and 29.92 inches of mercury.
>
>
> > [Original Message]
> > From: <rv6fly@bresnan.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Date: 1/26/2006 4:27:38 PM
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy shade
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: rv6fly@bresnan.net
> >
> > John Furey wrote:
> >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
> > >
> > >The best I have found are at walmart in the auto section. About $10
for a
> > >pair that fold up and can be stuck in front, the side, the top,
wherever
> > >you need it. I would not use anything else.
> > >
> > >John Furey
> > >2 RV6A's - F1 in process
> > >
> > >
> > This sun shade material also comes in handy for sealing out moisture:
> > covering fuel caps , sealing canopy/fuselage joints (if you don't have
a
> > canopy cover) and sealing NACA vents on taildraggers.
> >
> > Do not archive
> >
> > Bob Skinner Buffalo, WY
> >
> >
> > --
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Transition training in a -6A or -7A near Iowa? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
>
> Try Tom Irlbeck
> http://www.mnwing.org/cgi-bin/WebObjects/mnwing.woa , look
> under Transition Training.
> I got quite a few hours from Tom. Great Guy. Former Top Gun
> Instructor.
>
> John L. Danielson
Tom is in FL until about the beginning of May. FYI, he has done something
around 30 first flights for RV guys around here.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 708 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on Lycoming 320 and
360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires that the
cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are over 800 than within 60 hours....
This could cost a fortune, who pays for this? I am a
recent aircraft owner for the first time and have not encountered this before.
I cant imagine that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some
kind of liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
- Matt
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil" <phatphill@comcast.net>
Looking for someone in the Snta Ana arer that can give Duel in a RV-6
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on
> Lycoming 320 and 360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires
> that the cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are
> over 800 than within 60 hours.... This could cost a fortune,
> who pays for this? I am a recent aircraft owner for the first
> time and have not encountered this before. I cant imagine
> that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some kind of
> liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
>
> - Matt
If you have the cylinders on an RV, compliance is not required. However,
most RVers will comply, and I understand that for four new cylinders the
price from ECI will be $1300 total. They aren't paying for the labor.
Welcome to an imperfect world.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 708 hours (lucky, at least for now, to have Millennium
cylinders)
Maple Grove, MN
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
At 06:56 PM 1/26/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
>I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on Lycoming 320
>and 360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires that the
>cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are over 800 than within
>60 hours.... This could cost a fortune, who pays for this? I am a
>recent aircraft owner for the first time and have not encountered this
>before. I cant imagine that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some
>kind of liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
>
>- Matt
Before you get upset read the AD. It is probably on their website and
may not even apply to you.
Ron Lee
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil" <phatphill@comcast.net>
>
> Looking for someone in the Snta Ana arer that can give Duel in a RV-6
>
Oh boy, just like the ol' west, a Duel! You gonna use 6-shooters? How are
you going to take ten steps away from each other in an RV?
Sorry, but we could use a little humor on this list lately...
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 708 hours
Maple Grove, MN
do not archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
It is for a certified plane (Grumman). I guess that I dont have to comply until
it is at 800 hours, but it will still hurt the resell value if I
dont do it.
How often do people get AD's that cost them thousands of dollars on a whim? At
least with cars they are recalls and the manufacturer
picks up the cost of replacement...
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> >
> > I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on
> > Lycoming 320 and 360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires
> > that the cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are
> > over 800 than within 60 hours.... This could cost a fortune,
> > who pays for this? I am a recent aircraft owner for the first
> > time and have not encountered this before. I cant imagine
> > that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some kind of
> > liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
> >
> > - Matt
>
> If you have the cylinders on an RV, compliance is not required.
> However,
> most RVers will comply, and I understand that for four new cylinders
> the
> price from ECI will be $1300 total. They aren't paying for the labor.
> Welcome to an imperfect world.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A N66AP 708 hours (lucky, at least for now, to have Millennium
> cylinders)
> Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: B&C alternator clearance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
Chris,
I have the B&C alternator and have over 1200 hours with it. It works
perfect, no problem with clearance.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6@hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 24, 2006 4:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: B&C alternator clearance
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6@hotmail.com>
>
> I currently have Vans 35amp alt. With a Gates 7355 belt (36-1/4") on an
> O-360 C/S. Somewhere between 3-3.5 g's the pulley makes contact with lower
> cowl.
> I tried the next size shorter belt 7350 (35-5/8") but it's too tight and
> holds the alternator against the Stainless oil line from the governor. I
> would buy a B&C L40 if I thought it would give more clearance, but would
> rather save the money if it wouldn't fit with the shorter belt.
> Does anyone have a B&C L40 on a O-360 with a constant speed prop, and
> using
> a 7350 (35-5/8") (890mm) belt? If I know this combination works I'll order
> the B&C.
>
> Chris Brooks
> RV6
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "D.Bristol" <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
They're paying $475 for labor, it's included in the $1350 exchange
price that they are charging me. The AD doesn't affect all ECi
cylinders, just the "Classic Cast". The replacements are "Titan" which
are a step up. They also pay shipping one way.
Dave
>If you have the cylinders on an RV, compliance is not required. However,
>most RVers will comply, and I understand that for four new cylinders the
>price from ECI will be $1300 total. They aren't paying for the labor.
>Welcome to an imperfect world.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6-A N66AP 708 hours (lucky, at least for now, to have Millennium
>cylinders)
>Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
--> RV-List message posted by: eddyfernan@aol.com
FYI.
This does not apply to the new ECI Titan cylinders that many kit builders including
myself purchased. Of course you can double check that with ECI .
Eddy Fernandez
RV-9a Finishing
ECI O-320
-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Johnson <matt@n559rv.com>
Sent: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 17:56:49 -0800
Subject: RV-List: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on Lycoming 320 and
360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires that the
cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are over 800 than within 60
hours.... This could cost a fortune, who pays for this? I am a
recent aircraft owner for the first time and have not encountered this before.
I
cant imagine that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some
kind of liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
- Matt
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
ECI will pay for a pro-rated labor reimbursement for removal & installation.
http://www.eci2fly.com/pdf/05-8.pdf
last paragraph.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Alex Peterson [mailto:alexpeterson@earthlink.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 9:07 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> --> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> >
...They aren't paying for the labor.
> Welcome to an imperfect world.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A N66AP 708 hours (lucky, at least for now, to have Millennium
> cylinders)
> Maple Grove, MN
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Troubling Airworthiness Directive... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
First of all, determine whether the AD applies to the exact serial
number cylinders you have. Given your overhaul is so recent, it is very
unlikely, but get with your overhauler and be CERTAIN. It is the owner's
responsibility. An engine still under warranty is likely to get much
more consideration than the basic coverage mentioned in the AD.
Matt Johnson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> It is for a certified plane (Grumman). I guess that I dont have to comply until
it is at 800 hours, but it will still hurt the resell value if I
> dont do it.
>
> How often do people get AD's that cost them thousands of dollars on a whim? At
least with cars they are recalls and the manufacturer
> picks up the cost of replacement...
>
> - Matt
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Thu, 26 Jan 2006 20:06:31 -0600
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Troubling Airworthiness Directive...
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
>> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>>
>>
>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>>>
>>> I just received an AD in the mail regarding cylinder heads on
>>> Lycoming 320 and 360 engines manufactured by ECI. It requires
>>> that the cylinders be replaced before 800 hours or if you are
>>> over 800 than within 60 hours.... This could cost a fortune,
>>> who pays for this? I am a recent aircraft owner for the first
>>> time and have not encountered this before. I cant imagine
>>> that the manufacture (ECI) doesnt have some kind of
>>> liability. My engine just had an overhaul 40 hours ago!
>>>
>>> - Matt
>> If you have the cylinders on an RV, compliance is not required.
>> However,
>> most RVers will comply, and I understand that for four new cylinders
>> the
>> price from ECI will be $1300 total. They aren't paying for the labor.
>> Welcome to an imperfect world.
>>
>> Alex Peterson
>> RV6-A N66AP 708 hours (lucky, at least for now, to have Millennium
>> cylinders)
>> Maple Grove, MN
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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