Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:12 AM - Re: Re: O320 to O360 conversion (RAS)
2. 02:12 AM - Re: Rudder questions (RAS)
3. 02:20 AM - Re: nut plate revets ()
4. 04:26 AM - Re: Rudder questions (Sherman Butler)
5. 05:29 AM - Re: nut plate revets (Rick Galati)
6. 05:49 AM - Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint (Glen Matejcek)
7. 06:47 AM - Van's Firewall Forward Kit (Mark Chamberlain)
8. 07:28 AM - Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit (John Porter)
9. 07:28 AM - Re: Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint (Folbrecht, Paul)
10. 07:41 AM - land of enchantment (Kevin Shannon)
11. 08:00 AM - Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch (Dave Nellis)
12. 08:04 AM - Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit (Dan Checkoway)
13. 08:26 AM - Headset Hanger (PGLong@aol.com)
14. 08:51 AM - Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit (Terry Watson)
15. 08:54 AM - Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit (Chuck Weyant)
16. 09:00 AM - Re: Headset Hanger (Ralph E. Capen)
17. 09:14 AM - Re: land of enchantment - do not archive (Ron Lee)
18. 09:35 AM - Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit (Larygagnon@aol.com)
19. 09:42 AM - Re: land of enchantment - do not archive (Ron Lee)
20. 09:51 AM - Hollister AWOS??? (Matt Johnson)
21. 10:35 AM - Re: Hollister AWOS??? (William King)
22. 04:16 PM - No safety wire hole for oil temp probe (joelrhaynes@aol.com)
23. 04:28 PM - Fw: PC Simulators (joelrhaynes@aol.com)
24. 05:07 PM - Flight sim for RV??? (Knicholas2@aol.com)
25. 05:22 PM - Re: Flight sim for RV??? (Patrick Kelley)
26. 05:45 PM - Re: Hollister AWOS??? try anyAWOS.com (Marty Helller)
27. 06:46 PM - Re: Flight sim for RV??? (John D. Heath)
28. 07:35 PM - #3 CHT (sturdy@att.net)
29. 08:16 PM - Re: #3 CHT (scott bilinski)
30. 08:30 PM - Re: #3 CHT -- do not archive (Darrell Reiley)
31. 08:32 PM - Re: Fw: PC Simulators (LARRY ADAMSON)
32. 08:40 PM - Tools For Sale: 2X Rivet Gun, 5000 rpm 3/8 Air Drill, Rivet Cutter (William Scaringe)
33. 08:43 PM - Re: Hollister AWOS??? try anyAWOS.com (Matt Johnson)
34. 10:22 PM - EIS Settings / Pages (Bill VonDane)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: O320 to O360 conversion |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Hi,
I've not seen the origin on this tread, Lycoming's break in procedure tells
you to keep ground running to a minimum, use 75% power and for 5 min every
hour full throttle, and of course avoid shock cooling. Run the engine on
Straight 80 until such time oil consumption is established.
Re: the subject line, it is possible since the cast for the crankcase is the
same, however, everything else has to be changed, including the crank. The
cam is the same though in a lot of cases. A good project if you have nothing
better to do with your time and money :-)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 2:48 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: O320 to O360 conversion
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
> Usually a prolonged full power run is the last gasp before pulling the
> jugs
> on an engine that consumes to much oil after overhaul.
>
> Bruce
> www.glasair.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oliver Washburn
> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 4:27 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: O320 to O360 conversion
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Oliver Washburn" <ollie6a@earthlink.net>
>
> I have never read that the eng should be run wide open to break in.
> However
> they do want you to run at high power settings for the first few hours.
> Ollie
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 3:14 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Re: O320 to O360 conversion
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "bdjones1965" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Sounds like almost as much hassle as finding a test stand and breaking it
>> in on the ground. Ever consider this option?
>>
>> Bryan
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8234#8234
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RAS" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
The proseal in the traling edge is only there to assist novice builders in
the novice nuisance of double flush riveting. It can be build without
proseal. There are 3M adhesives for aerospace use more commonly used in the
composites structures. I'm not 100% about the numbers, but 3512 I think is
the fast drying and 2266 the slow one. I is quite a few years that I used
these adhesives. The slow one is in a Boeing material spec for the filler of
the Rudder on the 737 Classic and 737X.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sherman Butler" <lsbrv7a@yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 3:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Rudder questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a@yahoo.com>
>
> 1. I saw a very well done RV 7 this weekend with a trim wedge mounted on
> the side of the rudder. Has anyone used an adjustable trim tab? It
> would be easy to slip in while building the rudder.
>
>
> 2. Has anyone had experience with 3M polyurethane adhesive? I am
> thinking about using it on the trailing edged assembly.
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV 7a Empennage
>
>
> Sherman Butler
> RV-7a Empennage
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: nut plate revets |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> Is mounting nut plates with NAS-1097 rivets (oops) and acceptable
practice? It seems as if it would be easier in some locations, such as the
trim plate.
>
You've gotten some good answers on this; but, let me throw in something.
Whatever you use to install nut plates, plate nuts, anchor nuts (official
name), make sure it's somthing that has enough strength to hold up for a
long time. You don't want your fasteners to give up at some point down the
line when you accidentally put too much torque on the anchor nut; so,
bubblegum may not work well enough. :-). Anchor nuts are used in places
where one can't get to them easily. Changing one out, or replacing the
rivets that hold them in place, can be a real task that you don't want. The
oops rivet may work; but, remember that tiny head may cause you problems
later if it decides to pull out. I'm not saying it will. I'm being
conservative. I've seen anchor nuts come loose on at least one side. It
became a task getting the anchor nut back in place well enough for the screw
to thread in without cross threading. I don't want that to happen if it's
buried deeply inside the structure where I'd have to disassemble a bunch of
stuff to get to it to fix it.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
RV-7A #70317
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rudder questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a@yahoo.com>
Jim,
Sounds like a craftsman. Actually I was thinking about a ground adjustable trim
tab. On my Grumman the exposed edge of 0.16 was about 6" X 1.25" on the
rudder and ailerons.
sears@searnet.com wrote:
> 1. I saw a very well done RV 7 this weekend with a trim wedge mounted
on the
> side of the rudder. Has anyone used an adjustable trim tab? It would be
easy to
> slip in while building the rudder.
A fellow I know has a trim tab mounted in the rudder of his RV-3 and will do
it for his RV-7. May have already done it. If I remember, the horn for the
tab is also hidden. He does very nice work. If you're close to Louisville,
KY, he may show it to you.
His name is Chuck Brietigam at brietigam@earthlink.net, if this address is
still good. His workmanship is beautiful.
.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS
RV-7A #70317 (Putting lights in leading edges.)
EAA Tech Counselor
Sherman Butler
Idaho Falls
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Empennage
---------------------------------
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: nut plate revets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
lsbrv7a(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Is mounting nut plates with NAS-1097 rivets (oops) and acceptable practice?
It seems as if it would be easier in some locations, such as the trim plate.
-------
Sherman,
Absolutely. For nut plate application the NAS1097 is the fastener of choice. In
fact, you will surely compromise hole quality by attempting to machine countersink
thin material such as .025 to accept a kit supplied 426 rivet! The NAS
1097 is available in just about every length that the ubiquitious NAS426 is,
but the longer lengths can be hard to find. The rivet has long been used in the
production environment. No matter, the RV design only requires the smaller
lengths. I don't know for sure, but my guess is Van's coined the quaint little
term "oops" rivet to paint a word picture in the mind of a newbie in an attempt
to better describe one of the NAS1097AD4's potential qualities to a new builder
faced with a botched and oversized hole to fill. Actually the NAS1097 is
a far more utilitarian fastener than just serving in that capacity. Curiously,
Van's own people use the 1097 AD3 rivet to install nutplates/platenuts (the
term is interchangeable) but its application is never explained in the builders
manual. Van's stocks a few lengths of the NAS1097AD3. You will find the -3.5
to be by far the most commonly used length. Not found in the accessory catalog,
you have to refer to "the list" to find them. I have used the 1097 in many
places on the airframe, including a pattern on the canopy side skirts, rudder
cable fairing attachment, etc....wherever material thickness and the job
warrants their welcomed use. The oft misunderstood NAS1097....its not just an
"oops" rivet. Order your stash today!
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=8391#8391
Message 6
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| Subject: | Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi Paul-
Re: "I hate to have to post this. As the title says, I have a slight
gap... ...It is at least wide enough to get a piece of paper under. I have
not
>yet installed the rear spar... ...Is it something I would need
>to worry about? Is it a strength issue?"
>
>Paul
If I understand your situation correctly, I would say that yes, those
should be re-done. I believe that structural members such as the ones in
question here should definitely be in full contact. I'd be concerned that
the rivets in question would loosen pretty quickly in service. In any
case, I'd also suggest that correcting the issue now will prevent sleepless
nights in the future.
I believe that the phenomena you have encountered here is generally caused
by not holding the bucking bar sufficiently tight to the rivet during
bucking. This allows the bucking bar to 'chatter' against the rivet, which
can cause the gap between the parts. You may wonder how I know this....
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 7
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| Subject: | Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <mchamberlain@runbox.com>
Hi all,
Just wondering how many of you ordered/intend to order the Van's
firewall forward kit? I'm trying to decide if that is the best way to
go, or if it is better to just purchase the parts as needed. For those
of you who have used it; did you use everything in there? Or did some
items go to waste? How much other stuff did you need to purchase on top
of this for the firewall forward?
Thanks in advance for any help,
Mark
Fuselage - Finish kit arriving this week.
http://websites.expercraft.com/markc/
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Porter" <december29@bellsouth.net>
Mark,
I didn't use the firewall forward for two reasons. I had purchased a
"firewall forward" off a 2000 Decathlon and had a lot of duplication had I
gone with the Vans stuff. That said, I have spent a lot of time just
locating stuff so it doesn't conflict. I purchased some drawings to help
with firewall penetrations. If I had it to do over again, and didn't have
inverted systems, (ie standard Lycoming) I would have bought vans FWF and
been flying already. It has been the slowest part for me, and I'm one slow
builder, ha, ha. Have fun.
John Porter
#80002 (slowest -8 build of all time)
> Hi all,
>
> Just wondering how many of you ordered/intend to order the Van's
> firewall forward kit? >
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
It seems that I overstated the case. I posted from the office, without
the parts in sight, after having thought about this "gap" for several
hours. It turns out that there is full contact where the rivets are and
the gaps are only between rivets, for whatever reason. I probably
should have clamped to prevent this (I had clecos in two of the three
holes when riveting but no clamps) but I don't think it's a concern.
Come to think of it, if the rib had been offset any significant amount,
the skin-to-rib rivets would not likely have fit without redrilling, and
they did.
So, again, I'm afraid this was 90% my newbie-perfectionism and my
overactive imagination at work. I apologize for not looking at things
more carefully before posting.
Thanks.
Paul
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glen Matejcek
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Gaps in HS rib-to-front-spar joint
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi Paul-
Re: "I hate to have to post this. As the title says, I have a slight
gap... ...It is at least wide enough to get a piece of paper under. I
have
not
>yet installed the rear spar... ...Is it something I would need
>to worry about? Is it a strength issue?"
>
>Paul
If I understand your situation correctly, I would say that yes, those
should be re-done. I believe that structural members such as the ones
in
question here should definitely be in full contact. I'd be concerned
that
the rivets in question would loosen pretty quickly in service. In any
case, I'd also suggest that correcting the issue now will prevent
sleepless
nights in the future.
I believe that the phenomena you have encountered here is generally
caused
by not holding the bucking bar sufficiently tight to the rivet during
bucking. This allows the bucking bar to 'chatter' against the rivet,
which
can cause the gap between the parts. You may wonder how I know this....
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | land of enchantment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon@seanet.com>
Hi all,
I am going to visit a friend in Las Cruces NM soon, can anyone recommend
some interesting places to go in a rented Skyhawk?
I live on the Olympic Peninsula, haven't seen the sun in months!
Kevin Shannon
HR-II under const
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com>
Kyle,
I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to
expand on this.
Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin may
still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release wax on
the Monokote followed with PVA mold release. Spray
multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote. PVA
has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the wax.
Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading. When
finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote much
easier.
Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on Monokote.
Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is reactive
to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the
surface clean. Obviously, use proper ventilation and
protective safety gear.
BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good fiberglass
supplier will stock this item.
Dave
--- Kyle Boatright <kboatright1@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
> <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the
> canopy and fuselage. My
> cardboard of preference (from making the empennage
> fairing years ago) comes
> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
>
> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing tape,
> and volia, female
> mold...
>
> Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote or
> similar shrink film,
> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi
> and fuselage, and shrink
> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even work.
> (Note- put a layer of
> packing tape between the monokote and your canopy,
> or risk color
> transfer)...
>
> KB
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 6:21 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from
> scratch
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold"
> <randy@romeolima.com>
> >
> > Fiberglass gurus,
> >
> > After trying to get the metal skirt to fit on my
> RV-3 I'm giving up -- I'm
> > convinced God just didn't intend aluminum to be
> used for compound curves,
> > fiberglass on the other hand is perfectly suited
> for that. No worries with
> > laying it up and such (West Systems and 9 oz
> crowfoot e-glass), but what
> > I'd
> > appreciate some ideas on are how to craft a
> molding surface. I will pop
> > rivet my tipover plexi bubble to the frame in
> every other hole, which I
> > will
> > later drill out, so there won't need to be an
> clecos and thus I can layup
> > onto the plexi. But what do I use to create a form
> from the plexi down to
> > the fuselage, or to bridge the gap along the
> sides? This is way too much
> > area for the traditional modeling clay we use for
> intersection fairings.
> >
> > If I use any sort of tape it will create an uneven
> layup and require lots
> > of
> > sanding and filling, something I'd rather avoid. I
> was thinking of using
> > expandable foam around the front and rear sections
> (won't work on the
> > sides)
> > and then sculpting it. Seems like I heard that the
> cans of foam you can
> > buy
> > at Home Depot aren't good because they contain
> formaldehyde, not sure why
> > that's bad though.
> > Spruce has Poly-Cell 100 Polyurethane Foam
> >
>
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/polycel.php
> > and Liquid "X30" Foam
> >
>
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/x30foam.php
> >
> > Anyone had an experience with either of these?
> When using foam, do you lay
> > up directly on it, or coat it with something
> first?
> >
> > And lastly, what would be a good way to create a
> surface on the sides?
> > Here's a pic of what I'm dealing with...
> >
>
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Gallery/DSC_0899.jpg
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Randy Lervold
> > www.rv-3.com
> > www.rv-8.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Call Van's and have them fax you the inventory list for the FWF kit for your
particular engine+intake. You can then pick and choose what you want
omitted or included. Or just use it for a reference to do your own
shopping.
I had a handful of items that I didn't end up using -- particularly hoses
that didn't quite work with my setup. The more *bone stock* your setup is,
the more applicable the FWF kit is, and vice versa.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (802 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Porter" <december29@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:07 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Firewall Forward Kit
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Porter" <december29@bellsouth.net>
>
> Mark,
> I didn't use the firewall forward for two reasons. I had purchased a
> "firewall forward" off a 2000 Decathlon and had a lot of duplication had I
> gone with the Vans stuff. That said, I have spent a lot of time just
> locating stuff so it doesn't conflict. I purchased some drawings to help
> with firewall penetrations. If I had it to do over again, and didn't have
> inverted systems, (ie standard Lycoming) I would have bought vans FWF and
> been flying already. It has been the slowest part for me, and I'm one
> slow
> builder, ha, ha. Have fun.
>
> John Porter
> #80002 (slowest -8 build of all time)
>
>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Just wondering how many of you ordered/intend to order the Van's
>> firewall forward kit? >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
What have others done to hang their headsets on to keep them out of the way?
I keep mine plugged in and ready to go so would like to come up with
something that won't hinder climbing into and out of my RV-4.
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Mark,
I would strongly recommend the firewall forward kit. Otherwise you are going
to spend an inordinate amount of time figuring out what to order (hoses,
clamps, special bolts, washers, etc, etc.) There will still be enough of
that to do anyway. In some cases you could order the individual kits, such
as the Filtered Air Box kit or the Baffle kit, but it is much easier to just
get the Firewall Forward kit.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Baffling
Seattle
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <mchamberlain@runbox.com>
Hi all,
Just wondering how many of you ordered/intend to order the Van's
firewall forward kit? I'm trying to decide if that is the best way to
go, or if it is better to just purchase the parts as needed. For those
of you who have used it; did you use everything in there? Or did some
items go to waste? How much other stuff did you need to purchase on top
of this for the firewall forward?
Thanks in advance for any help,
Mark
Fuselage - Finish kit arriving this week.
http://websites.expercraft.com/markc/
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
I purchased it. Had some duplication, but made it up in lots of time saved.
I'd definetly recommend purchasing it.
Chuck Weyant
RV9A Slowbuild
140 Hours now and loving it!
>
> Call Van's and have them fax you the inventory list for the FWF kit for
> your
> particular engine+intake. You can then pick and choose what you want
> omitted or included. Or just use it for a reference to do your own
> shopping.
>
> I had a handful of items that I didn't end up using -- particularly hoses
> that didn't quite work with my setup. The more *bone stock* your setup
> is,
> the more applicable the FWF kit is, and vice versa.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (802 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Headset Hanger |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
I've got a photo of a stolen idea for a 6(A) slider.
Don't know how it might apply to a 4 though.
Zap me offline.....
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: PGLong@aol.com
>Sent: Jan 31, 2006 11:24 AM
>To: Rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Headset Hanger
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
>
>What have others done to hang their headsets on to keep them out of the way?
>I keep mine plugged in and ready to go so would like to come up with
>something that won't hinder climbing into and out of my RV-4.
>
>Pat Long
>PGLong@aol.com
>N120PL
>RV4
>Bay City, Michigan
>3CM
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: land of enchantment - do not archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
> I am going to visit a friend in Las Cruces NM soon, can anyone recommend
>some interesting places to go in a rented Skyhawk?
>
>I live on the Olympic Peninsula, haven't seen the sun in months!
I was just in Seattle and Yakima over the weekend. I saw sun in Yakima so
Washington does get sun. How you folks put up with that gloomy weather
is beyond me.
Santa Teresa has a museum:
http://www.airnav.com/airport/5T6
Carlsbad Caverns is not far to the east (by RV standards)
http://www.airnav.com/airport/KCNM
White Sands and a launcher museum are to the NE (via car likely)
Ron Lee
Do not archive
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
I've been using Van's firewall forward kit and wiring kit in a 6A under
construction. We decided to use the RV7A configuration with the Odyssey battery
installation and so far everything lines up the way it's supposed to. You
have to put things where Van's tells you to so all the brackets, cables and hoses
work but just make sure you're using the correct plan sheet and firewall
penetration chart for your configuration. We are not using the vertical panel
from the panel to the floor and that means the mixture cable and manual trim
cable are in a different position and one is too short and one is too long. We
just deleted the cables from the package and will order them later when their
length is determined. I haven't found the need to order any extra parts yet
but I'm sure when I get into the wiring there will be bit's and pieces
necessary. All the big stuff is there, baffle kit, alternator and mounting kit,
airbox,
motor mounts with bolts, plumbing, things I had to make multiple orders from
Van's and Spruce to get are all here so there is no excuse for not making
progress on the project. Good luck.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 N6LG 90 hours
RV6A finish kit
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: land of enchantment - do not archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
PS, be sure to get a sectional to avoid the many restricted areas.
If you go to Carlsbad you "may" be able to transit one or more restricted
areas by contacting El Paso approach.
Ron Lee
Do not archive
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Hollister AWOS??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I was in Los Banos last night and a local pilot gave me a phone number for Hollister
AWOS. Now that I am home I wanted to get that phone
number again and cannot find anything on the web about Hollister having an AWOS,
let alone a phone number to get to it. Does anyone
know what the phone number is to call Hollister AWOS?
- Matt
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Hollister AWOS??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William King" <bill@kane-king.com>
I think the Hollister AWOS phone number is 1-831-724-8794. Don't know for
sure, I just googled it.
Bill King
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
<NorCal-Rvlist@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 12:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> I was in Los Banos last night and a local pilot gave me a phone number for
> Hollister AWOS. Now that I am home I wanted to get that phone
> number again and cannot find anything on the web about Hollister having an
> AWOS, let alone a phone number to get to it. Does anyone
> know what the phone number is to call Hollister AWOS?
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | No safety wire hole for oil temp probe |
--> RV-List message posted by: joelrhaynes@aol.com
The oil temp probe supplied with my engine monitor (Dynon EMS D10) has no hole
drilled for attaching safety wire. This seems unusual to me. I'm wondering if
I should attempt to drill a hole myself or perhaps just acquire a new temp probe.
Any thoughts.
Joel Haynes
Bozeman, MT
7A Finishing
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Fwd: PC Simulators |
--> RV-List message posted by: joelrhaynes@aol.com
I have purchased several version of MS Flight Simulator through the years and I
still do not like it. However, I have found OnTop version 8 from ASA to be a
great IFR trainer. Don't expect great graphics out the window because it's an
IFR trainer. But the panel graphics are great and you can configure the panel
in many different ways for a variety of aircraft. It has all the VORs, NDBs,
airports, etc. It flies like a real airplane.
Joel Haynes
Bozeman, MT
7A Finishing
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Flight sim for RV??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
This may have been asked before but I can't find anything in the archives....
Does anyone have an RV (I fly an RV9A) for the Microsoft Flight Sim?
Thanks -
Kim Nicholas
Do not archive
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Flight sim for RV??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Try the Flight Factory RV-7/7A. You can probably tweak it to match your
aircraft's performance.
Pat Kelley - RV-6A - working on seats
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Knicholas2@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flight sim for RV???
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
This may have been asked before but I can't find anything in the
archives....
Does anyone have an RV (I fly an RV9A) for the Microsoft Flight Sim?
Thanks -
Kim Nicholas
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Hollister AWOS??? try anyAWOS.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Marty Helller" <marty_away@hotmail.com>
Have you tried www.anyawos.com? Phone is 877-269 2967. According to the
phone message, the service becomes subscription only on 6 Feb.....
Marty
RV-7
Still hoping to tip the canoe someday....
>From: "William King" <bill@kane-king.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
>Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 13:33:31 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "William King" <bill@kane-king.com>
>
>I think the Hollister AWOS phone number is 1-831-724-8794. Don't know for
>sure, I just googled it.
>
>Bill King
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <SoCal-Rvlist@yahoogroups.com>;
><NorCal-Rvlist@yahoogroups.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 12:59 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> >
> > I was in Los Banos last night and a local pilot gave me a phone number
>for
> > Hollister AWOS. Now that I am home I wanted to get that phone
> > number again and cannot find anything on the web about Hollister having
>an
> > AWOS, let alone a phone number to get to it. Does anyone
> > know what the phone number is to call Hollister AWOS?
> >
> > - Matt
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Flight sim for RV??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <altoq@cebridge.net>
Pat,
Try this link. http://www.surclaro.com/downloads_c23_10_dateD.html You
might have to join up but its free and there are a lot of files and
information to download. There are some other files you might want to go
with this that allow you to tweek it into a fair model. if you do let me
know. There is also an RV-6 on this site.
Do Not Arcive
Have Fun
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 7:20 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flight sim for RV???
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
>
> Try the Flight Factory RV-7/7A. You can probably tweak it to match your
> aircraft's performance.
>
> Pat Kelley - RV-6A - working on seats
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> Knicholas2@aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 6:06 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Flight sim for RV???
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> This may have been asked before but I can't find anything in the
> archives....
>
> Does anyone have an RV (I fly an RV9A) for the Microsoft Flight Sim?
>
> Thanks -
> Kim Nicholas
>
>
Message 28
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: sturdy@att.net
Listers,
For years I have just lived with the fact that #3 CHT is always higher than the
rest. I have flown my RV-8 for 950 hours with #3 CHT running 15* higher than
the rest, after I put the temp riser in front of #1. Then, awhile back someone
mentioned putting a washer between the #3 cylinder and the back baffle where
the screw holds the baffle to #3. Well, I put a 1/8" washer there and sure
enough, #3 CHT came down 15* and now all four CHTs are with 4* of one another.
Thanks to whomever made the suggestion. So #3 CHT does not have to be higher
than the rest!!! Another myth busted.
Stu McCurdy
RV-8 Flying
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: scott bilinski <rv8a2001@yahoo.com>
Just goes to show how important a engine monitor is. Otherwise you really dont
know what your engine is doing.
Is there anyone out there who thought their engine was running great, then put
in a engine monitor and realized just how bad the temps were? Care to share
with us?
sturdy@att.net wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: sturdy@att.net
Listers,
For years I have just lived with the fact that #3 CHT is always higher than the
rest. I have flown my RV-8 for 950 hours with #3 CHT running 15* higher than
the rest, after I put the temp riser in front of #1. Then, awhile back someone
mentioned putting a washer between the #3 cylinder and the back baffle where
the screw holds the baffle to #3. Well, I put a 1/8" washer there and sure enough,
#3 CHT came down 15* and now all four CHTs are with 4* of one another. Thanks
to whomever made the suggestion. So #3 CHT does not have to be higher than
the rest!!! Another myth busted.
Stu McCurdy
RV-8 Flying
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
cell 858-395-5094
---------------------------------
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: #3 CHT -- do not archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Stu,
Thanks for bringing us the update report of the success! This is the type of
information that helps everyone.
do not archive
Darrell
sturdy@att.net wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: sturdy@att.net
Listers,
For years I have just lived with the fact that #3 CHT is always higher than the
rest. I have flown my RV-8 for 950 hours with #3 CHT running 15* higher than
the rest, after I put the temp riser in front of #1. Then, awhile back someone
mentioned putting a washer between the #3 cylinder and the back baffle where
the screw holds the baffle to #3. Well, I put a 1/8" washer there and sure enough,
#3 CHT came down 15* and now all four CHTs are with 4* of one another. Thanks
to whomever made the suggestion. So #3 CHT does not have to be higher than
the rest!!! Another myth busted.
Stu McCurdy
RV-8 Flying
"Do Not Archive"
Darrell Reiley
RV7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR Reserved
---------------------------------
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fwd: PC Simulators |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: joelrhaynes@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 5:44 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fwd: PC Simulators
--> RV-List message posted by: joelrhaynes@aol.com
When it comes to MS Flight Simulator, there are many 3rd party add-on aircraft,
both freeware and payware, that are designed and programmed by people with many
years experience. And some of these designers range from private GA airplane
owners to 767 Captains. The end result is also a simulated plane that fly's
like a plane, as well as panels that look very real.
Personally, I prefer MS to On Top, because of the realistic topography mesh that's
available for the areas I fly in the Mt. West. I like simulated airports
that are located within the surrounding topography, as they are in real life.
It's like flying there, before you actually do. You can get a good idea of the
airport layout including taxiways beforehand.
I have purchased several version of MS Flight Simulator through the years and I
still do not like it. However, I have found OnTop version 8 from ASA to be a
great IFR trainer. Don't expect great graphics out the window because it's an
IFR trainer. But the panel graphics are great and you can configure the panel
in many different ways for a variety of aircraft. It has all the VORs, NDBs,
airports, etc. It flies like a real airplane.
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Tools For Sale: 2X Rivet Gun, 5000 rpm 3/8 Air Drill, Rivet Cutter |
--> RV-List message posted by: William Scaringe <bscaringe@sbcglobal.net>
Hi Builders, my divorce sale continues with these high quality tools on eBay:
U.S. Air Tool 2X Rivet Gun
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7586776693
Rockwell 5000 rpm 3/8 Air Drill
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7586774967
Heavy Duty Rivet Cutter
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7586771504
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Hollister AWOS??? try anyAWOS.com |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Yeah, I had tried anyAWOS, they did not have it. I just got it though from another
pilot who called the airport. Thanks for the
suggestion. I guess it is pretty new and not registered with anything yet but you
can call it.
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Marty Helller" <marty_away@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hollister AWOS??? try anyAWOS.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Marty Helller" <marty_away@hotmail.com>
>
> Have you tried www.anyawos.com? Phone is 877-269 2967. According to
> the
> phone message, the service becomes subscription only on 6 Feb.....
>
> Marty
> RV-7
> Still hoping to tip the canoe someday....
>
>
> >From: "William King" <bill@kane-king.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
> >Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2006 13:33:31 -0500
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "William King" <bill@kane-king.com>
> >
> >I think the Hollister AWOS phone number is 1-831-724-8794. Don't know
> for
> >sure, I just googled it.
> >
> >Bill King
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <SoCal-Rvlist@yahoogroups.com>;
> ><NorCal-Rvlist@yahoogroups.com>
> >Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 12:59 PM
> >Subject: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> > >
> > > I was in Los Banos last night and a local pilot gave me a phone
> number
> >for
> > > Hollister AWOS. Now that I am home I wanted to get that phone
> > > number again and cannot find anything on the web about Hollister
> having
> >an
> > > AWOS, let alone a phone number to get to it. Does anyone
> > > know what the phone number is to call Hollister AWOS?
> > >
> > > - Matt
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | EIS Settings / Pages |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
Speaking of engine monitors... I have been doing some tweaking on my EIS
and have created a spreadsheet I use for figuring out the settings and
getting down on paper before transferring them to the EIS and have put a
copy on my web site if anyone wants to download it:
http://www.rv8a.com/downloads/
Anyway, I am interested in how people have their EIS configured,
specifically;
What are you displaying on your custom pages?
What limits do you have set?
Moreover, What limits do you have set for:
MAX EGT SPAN
MAX EGT INC
MAX EGT DEC
MAX C RATE
Thanks!
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado Springs
www.rv8a.com
www.creativair.com
www.epanelbuilder.com
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