Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:47 AM - Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit (Mark Chamberlain)
2. 06:34 AM - EIS settings (Frazier, Vincent A)
3. 07:01 AM - Re: Headset Hanger (Richard Seiders)
4. 07:33 AM - Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit (Jim Anglin)
5. 08:13 AM - Re: Flight sim for RV??? (davcor@comcast.net)
6. 08:28 AM - Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
7. 09:11 AM - Re: Hollister AWOS??? (Dan Morrow)
8. 12:11 PM - Re: CYL high temp (lancenewman)
9. 12:43 PM - Re: CYL high temp (Kelly McMullen)
10. 12:43 PM - Re: CYL high temp (Dan Beadle)
11. 01:19 PM - Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch (Randy Lervold)
12. 02:05 PM - RV-4 tail kit available (Tom Gummo)
13. 05:00 PM - Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch (Dave Nellis)
14. 05:35 PM - Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin (Folbrecht, Paul)
15. 05:56 PM - Re: Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin (DonVS)
16. 07:11 PM - cablecraft good customer service (sarg314)
17. 09:34 PM - IO390 (Dan Beadle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Chamberlain" <mchamberlain@runbox.com>
Thanks for all the great information on this folks!
It sounds like this is the way to go, especially at the speed I'm
building at, with this I will have most of what I need when I need it
and won't be waiting for another shipment every five minutes. Van's is
pretty good when it comes to returning stuff (usually) so I'm guessing
they'll let me return anything I don't use anyway.
Thanks again,
Mark - 234C (res)
http://websites.expercraft.com/markc/
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
I've got them all in a handy spreadsheet. Email me OFFLINE if you want
a copy sent to you.
The spreadsheet is set up for an IO-540, but most, if not all, of the
settings are applicable to RV engines. The only thing I can think of
that doesn't apply is the %power chart and the fuel inj stuff if you're
carbureted.
Vince
F-1H Rocket, N540VF
http://vincesrocket.com/
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Headset Hanger |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
Pat, I saw a clever idea at S&F last year. Van's display model had a small
bent pc 025 alum riveted to the mid level angle brace to left of pilot's
knee. This creates a "hook" to hang the headsets on. Put one on each side
of my RV6A last year. Works just fine. They are out of the way until you
are ready for them. Don't know if this is adaptable to RV4, but worth a look.
Dick
At 11:24 AM 1/31/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: PGLong@aol.com
>
>What have others done to hang their headsets on to keep them out of the way?
>I keep mine plugged in and ready to go so would like to come up with
>something that won't hinder climbing into and out of my RV-4.
>
>Pat Long
>PGLong@aol.com
>N120PL
>RV4
>Bay City, Michigan
>3CM
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Firewall Forward Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <n144hr@earthlink.net>
I bought Van's RV8 wiring kit for $200 + - and used it on my HR II. It was perfect,
saved time and headaches, and had to be less expensive than buying too
much of everything. If his FWF kit is as good you can't miss. I have been dealing
with Van since I started my RV6 in 1989, and the cadre he has now are nothing
short of phenomenal in their engineering. Take this for what it's worth
but if I were in your shoes I would buy it.
jim
HR II N144HR
Message 5
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Cc: Knicholas2@aol.com
| Subject: | Re: Flight sim for RV??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: davcor@comcast.net
Check out:
http://www.flightfactory-simulations.com/
They have an RV7 and RV7A, and also have a Dynon add-on
This sim is pretty neat, if you abuse your ship, you have to repair ($) don't extend
flaps over 100
Tracks maintenance, plane gets dirty, more...
Dave Cordner
RV7 - Firewall cleco'd, back drilling
)
N898DC (rsvd)
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Knicholas2@aol.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> This may have been asked before but I can't find anything in the archives....
>
> Does anyone have an RV (I fly an RV9A) for the Microsoft Flight Sim?
>
> Thanks -
> Kim Nicholas
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Check out:
http://www.flightfactory-simulations.com/
They have an RV7 and RV7A, and also have a Dynon add-on
This sim is pretty neat, if you abuse your ship, you have to repair ($) don't extend
flaps over 100
Tracks maintenance, plane gets dirty, more...
Dave Cordner
RV7 - Firewall cleco'd, back drilling boelubing tonight ;
)
N898DC (rsvd)
-------------- Original message --------------
From: Knicholas2@aol.com
-- RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
This may have been asked before but I can't find anything in the archives....
Does anyone have an RV (I fly an RV9A) for the Microsoft Flight Sim?
Thanks -
Kim Nicholas
Do not archive
=================================================
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Posterboard and packing tape?
Chicken wire and packing tape?
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Sent: Monday, January 30, 2006 6:21 PM
Subject: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Fiberglass gurus,
After trying to get the metal skirt to fit on my RV-3 I'm giving up --
I'm
convinced God just didn't intend aluminum to be used for compound
curves,
fiberglass on the other hand is perfectly suited for that. No worries
with
laying it up and such (West Systems and 9 oz crowfoot e-glass), but what
I'd
appreciate some ideas on are how to craft a molding surface. I will pop
rivet my tipover plexi bubble to the frame in every other hole, which I
will
later drill out, so there won't need to be an clecos and thus I can
layup
onto the plexi. But what do I use to create a form from the plexi down
to
the fuselage, or to bridge the gap along the sides? This is way too much
area for the traditional modeling clay we use for intersection fairings.
If I use any sort of tape it will create an uneven layup and require
lots of
sanding and filling, something I'd rather avoid. I was thinking of using
expandable foam around the front and rear sections (won't work on the
sides)
and then sculpting it. Seems like I heard that the cans of foam you can
buy
at Home Depot aren't good because they contain formaldehyde, not sure
why
that's bad though.
Spruce has Poly-Cell 100 Polyurethane Foam
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/polycel.php
and Liquid "X30" Foam
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cmpages/x30foam.php
Anyone had an experience with either of these? When using foam, do you
lay
up directly on it, or coat it with something first?
And lastly, what would be a good way to create a surface on the sides?
Here's a pic of what I'm dealing with...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Gallery/DSC_0899.jpg
Thanks!
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Hollister AWOS??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Morrow" <DanFM01@butter.toast.net>
The "Pilot's Guide to California Airports" lists the Hollister AWOS number
as 831-636-4394. I tried it and it works.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
<NorCal-Rvlist@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2006 9:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Hollister AWOS???
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> I was in Los Banos last night and a local pilot gave me a phone number for
> Hollister AWOS. Now that I am home I wanted to get that phone
> number again and cannot find anything on the web about Hollister having an
> AWOS, let alone a phone number to get to it. Does anyone
> know what the phone number is to call Hollister AWOS?
>
> - Matt
>
>
> --
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lancenewman" <lancenewman@comcast.net>
Those temps sound reasonable to me. Frankly, I would wait until the seasonal
temps begin to heat up a bit and see how the airplane flies leaned back at
altitude. Remember that temps will come down as your altitude increases.
Your well below the recommended temp for maximum service life.
I'm flying an RV6 with a new 0320 D1A and an 80 pitch Sensenich FP. I'm
running about 374F at 65% cruise and 392F flat out. My climb temp is 428F
full throttle. Oil temp 176-194F. This is at 3000' and below. At 8000' and
above subract about 3-5 percent from those numbers. Here is the complete
list of CHT problems in case you don't want to read all the way through this
message before troubleshooting.
1. Spark plugs of improper heat rating
2. Cooling baffles, missing, broken or bent. Be sure you have the lycoming
baffles between the cylinders. Not just the baffling kit that came from
Van's.
3. Partially plugged fuel nozzle
4. Fuel lines of improper I.D. Should be .085 to .090 for lycoming engines.
Primer lines must have restrictor fittings.
5. Engine improperly timed.
6. Engine running too lean. Look for carbon deposits in the combustion
chamber, if there are none, the engine is being run continually too lean.
7. Improper rigging of mixture control. Ensure full travel capability.
8. Exhaust gas leak into the cylinder. Look for burned paint or white
deposits.
9. Loose or bad CHT leads. Only use bayonette style. Spark plug ring style
are junk.
Temps to remember
Oil Temp - 160F to 245F . At least 180 deg F to ensure vaporization of
moisture out of the oil.
CHT- Minimum in flight 150F. Cruise range 350-435F ( not to exceed 400F
for maximum service life)
EGT- 1200-1600F. (1400F for maximum service life)
Probe calibration
Forget about having to buy expensive thermometers to calibrate your probes.
Just emerse the probes in boiling water and look for consistancy around 212
deg F. If you have all 4 monitored, try swapping around to look for a change
in readings. Once you feel comfortable that your monitoring is accurate to
within 10 deg F or so you can begin to look for ways to bring the temps
down. The most common sources of problems lie in Mixture control and baffle
efficiency. Lets attack them one at a time
Mixture Questions
Which is your hottest cylinder, should be #3 or #4. The leanest running
cylinder is going to be the hottest. My experience is that #3 usually runs a
little leaner than the rest and therefore hotter. If you have carb heat, try
cracking it slightly to enrich the mixture and see if the temp comes down.
If this works, you might go with it. If your still worried, we will move on.
If your engine is running a bit lean at cruise rpm, the only way you can
improve this would be to bore out the jets by a tiny amount. This would be
the last option after you try all else. The mixture dial on the carb is only
for idle mixuture adjustment and will have no effect on cruise mixture.
Baffling Questions
Have you tried to tape vortex generators on the baffling just forward of the
entry to cyl 1 and 2. They will increase airflow past 1 and 2 and feed more
air back to 3 and 4. The comments about keeping the cylinder fins clean and
clear are good ones as well. You can also adjust the air exit velocity by
playing with your safety wire length under the baffles. If you want to get
real inventive, you can change the air exit velocity from the coweling by
cutting away about 1/4" at a time from the trailing edge of the scoop.
The biggest breakthrough I found was to put fiberglass boxes above the air
entry ports into the coweling using those funny looking layups that Van's
sends you with the finish kit. Pop rivet and glass those in and seal off the
open ends with more layups so that air can't circulate unterneath them.
Frankly, I would wait until the seasonal temps begin to heat up a bit and
see how the airplane flies leaned back at altitude. Remember that temps will
come down as your altitude increases.
Happy Landings
----- Original Message -----
From: "lowell lemay" <llemay1@austin.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 12:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: CYL high temp
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lowell lemay" <llemay1@austin.rr.com>
>
> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new
> Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most
> holes..placed horizontal flanges on top inside of plenum near the split in
> the cyl heads, and cut off 1 inch across the middle bottom of the under
> cowling. Started with over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them
> down to about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets
> hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken in...Lowell
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: CYL high temp |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
I'm not sure the basis of your temp recommendations. The best
recommendations I know come from Advanced Pilot Seminars, where they
have more data to back their recommendations than anyone. Oil okay.
CHT, there is no minimum temp for max life, that is an OWT.
Maximum for any flight phase, including climb should be 400F.\
EGT, for normally aspirated, there is no maximum, especially none for
maximum life, but much over 1500 is unlikely. Turbos, totally different,
they do have TIT maximums. What matters is all cylinders peaking as
close to each other, in terms of fuel flow, not temp. You are only
looking for the peak on each cylinder, not an absolute temperature.
You are totally incorrect about why #3 on an O-360 or IO-360 runs
hottest. Has very little to do with mixture, and if it were leanest, it
would only be hottest on the rich side of peak, where you don't want to
be anyway. #3 runs hottest because of the way Lycoming designed the head
casting to have NO cooling fins on the back side of #3 (and front #2).
If the baffling is tight against the cylinder head, it will run 30-50
degrees hotter than if you leave a 1/8" to 1/4" gap for air to get through.
KM
A&P
DO NOT Archive
lancenewman wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lancenewman" <lancenewman@comcast.net>
>
>
>
> Those temps sound reasonable to me. F
>
> Temps to remember
> Oil Temp - 160F to 245F . At least 180 deg F to ensure vaporization of
> moisture out of the oil.
> CHT- Minimum in flight 150F. Cruise range 350-435F ( not to exceed 400F
> for maximum service life)
> EGT- 1200-1600F. (1400F for maximum service life)
>
>
> Probe calibration
> Forget about having to buy expensive thermometers to calibrate your probes.
> Just emerse the probes in boiling water and look for consistancy around 212
> deg F. If you have all 4 monitored, try swapping around to look for a change
> in readings. Once you feel comfortable that your monitoring is accurate to
> within 10 deg F or so you can begin to look for ways to bring the temps
> down. The most common sources of problems lie in Mixture control and baffle
> efficiency. Lets attack them one at a time
>
> Mixture Questions
>
> Which is your hottest cylinder, should be #3 or #4. The leanest running
> cylinder is going to be the hottest. My experience is that #3 usually runs a
> little leaner than the rest and therefore hotter. If you have carb heat, try
> cracking it slightly to enrich the mixture and see if the temp comes down.
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Beadle" <dan.beadle@inclinesoftworks.com>
I am not flying the same engine, but the oil temps look great.
The CHT seems a little high on climb out - I shoot for 400 degrees max,
using cowl flaps. One engine runs 375 (gages have been calibrated
recently). Generally, cooler is better for CHT. Oil Temp should get to 180
or so to boil off moisture in it.
So your temps all sound pretty "Normal"
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of lancenewman
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 12:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: CYL high temp
--> RV-List message posted by: "lancenewman" <lancenewman@comcast.net>
Those temps sound reasonable to me. Frankly, I would wait until the seasonal
temps begin to heat up a bit and see how the airplane flies leaned back at
altitude. Remember that temps will come down as your altitude increases.
Your well below the recommended temp for maximum service life.
I'm flying an RV6 with a new 0320 D1A and an 80 pitch Sensenich FP. I'm
running about 374F at 65% cruise and 392F flat out. My climb temp is 428F
full throttle. Oil temp 176-194F. This is at 3000' and below. At 8000' and
above subract about 3-5 percent from those numbers. Here is the complete
list of CHT problems in case you don't want to read all the way through this
message before troubleshooting.
1. Spark plugs of improper heat rating
2. Cooling baffles, missing, broken or bent. Be sure you have the lycoming
baffles between the cylinders. Not just the baffling kit that came from
Van's.
3. Partially plugged fuel nozzle
4. Fuel lines of improper I.D. Should be .085 to .090 for lycoming engines.
Primer lines must have restrictor fittings.
5. Engine improperly timed.
6. Engine running too lean. Look for carbon deposits in the combustion
chamber, if there are none, the engine is being run continually too lean.
7. Improper rigging of mixture control. Ensure full travel capability.
8. Exhaust gas leak into the cylinder. Look for burned paint or white
deposits.
9. Loose or bad CHT leads. Only use bayonette style. Spark plug ring style
are junk.
Temps to remember
Oil Temp - 160F to 245F . At least 180 deg F to ensure vaporization of
moisture out of the oil.
CHT- Minimum in flight 150F. Cruise range 350-435F ( not to exceed 400F
for maximum service life)
EGT- 1200-1600F. (1400F for maximum service life)
Probe calibration
Forget about having to buy expensive thermometers to calibrate your probes.
Just emerse the probes in boiling water and look for consistancy around 212
deg F. If you have all 4 monitored, try swapping around to look for a change
in readings. Once you feel comfortable that your monitoring is accurate to
within 10 deg F or so you can begin to look for ways to bring the temps
down. The most common sources of problems lie in Mixture control and baffle
efficiency. Lets attack them one at a time
Mixture Questions
Which is your hottest cylinder, should be #3 or #4. The leanest running
cylinder is going to be the hottest. My experience is that #3 usually runs a
little leaner than the rest and therefore hotter. If you have carb heat, try
cracking it slightly to enrich the mixture and see if the temp comes down.
If this works, you might go with it. If your still worried, we will move on.
If your engine is running a bit lean at cruise rpm, the only way you can
improve this would be to bore out the jets by a tiny amount. This would be
the last option after you try all else. The mixture dial on the carb is only
for idle mixuture adjustment and will have no effect on cruise mixture.
Baffling Questions
Have you tried to tape vortex generators on the baffling just forward of the
entry to cyl 1 and 2. They will increase airflow past 1 and 2 and feed more
air back to 3 and 4. The comments about keeping the cylinder fins clean and
clear are good ones as well. You can also adjust the air exit velocity by
playing with your safety wire length under the baffles. If you want to get
real inventive, you can change the air exit velocity from the coweling by
cutting away about 1/4" at a time from the trailing edge of the scoop.
The biggest breakthrough I found was to put fiberglass boxes above the air
entry ports into the coweling using those funny looking layups that Van's
sends you with the finish kit. Pop rivet and glass those in and seal off the
open ends with more layups so that air can't circulate unterneath them.
Frankly, I would wait until the seasonal temps begin to heat up a bit and
see how the airplane flies leaned back at altitude. Remember that temps will
come down as your altitude increases.
Happy Landings
----- Original Message -----
From: "lowell lemay" <llemay1@austin.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 12:13 PM
Subject: RV-List: CYL high temp
> --> RV-List message posted by: "lowell lemay" <llemay1@austin.rr.com>
>
> Anyone have any new ideas on how to bring down the CYL temp on a new
> Mattituck O-360 RV-7 with plenum chamber? Have plugged most
> holes..placed horizontal flanges on top inside of plenum near the split in
> the cyl heads, and cut off 1 inch across the middle bottom of the under
> cowling. Started with over 425 on # 3 & 4 with 70% power and have them
> down to about 380 with 55 F OAT. Will need more room when it gets
> hot...........Now have 40 hours and consider it broken in...Lowell
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and I have a couple of rolls
laying around. What is Monokote actually made of, and is there a chance that
epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can you control what/where it
adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off, the plexi in particular?
Anyone have more experience with it?
Randy
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com>
>
> Kyle,
>
> I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to
> expand on this.
>
> Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin may
> still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release wax on
> the Monokote followed with PVA mold release. Spray
> multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote. PVA
> has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the wax.
> Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading. When
> finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote much
> easier.
>
> Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on Monokote.
> Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is reactive
> to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the
> surface clean. Obviously, use proper ventilation and
> protective safety gear.
>
> BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good fiberglass
> supplier will stock this item.
>
> Dave
>
>
> --- Kyle Boatright <kboatright1@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
>> <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>>
>> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the
>> canopy and fuselage. My
>> cardboard of preference (from making the empennage
>> fairing years ago) comes
>> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
>>
>> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing tape,
>> and volia, female
>> mold...
>>
>> Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote or
>> similar shrink film,
>> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi
>> and fuselage, and shrink
>> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even work.
>> (Note- put a layer of
>> packing tape between the monokote and your canopy,
>> or risk color
>> transfer)...
>>
>> KB
Message 12
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| Subject: | RV-4 tail kit available |
Cc: <projectx633@yahoo.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Everybody,
There is a tail kit for a RV-4 available in Texas. Looks like some of the
work has been started. The owner passed away and the wife is starting to
get rid of some stuff that has been laying around.
Contact her, Jennifer, at projectx633@yahoo.com for details.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com>
Randy,
Monokote is a plastic film used to cover model
aircraft. It is heatshrinkable and has a heat
activated adhesive which is also the pigment.
First off, DO NOT adhere Monokote to plexi!!!!! I
have just started my project and I am not totally
familiar with the canopy area. After reading the
posts regarding this, I was thinking that their was an
area on the fuselage at the canopy that was used as a
mold. I would only attach Monokote to bare metal or
to a surface that is NOT reactive to acetone or dope
thinner. Do not under any circumstances use acetone
or dope thinner on plexi.
If Monokote is the way you want to go, consider the
following. Buy a Monokote iron from a hobby shop,
about $20. Follow the directions therein. When
attaching, only seal the edges down. When shrinking
the rest, do not press down on the iron. Let the
weight of the iron do the work. Shrink the Monokote
till all wrinkles are gone. Make your layups with
suitable mold release products.
Upon removal, you will find some of the Monokote will
have adhered to sealed edge areas and quite possibly
the center as well. Use acetone or dope thinner in a
clean rag with proper ventilation and safety equipment
to remove the adhered Monokote.
You will find the inside of your lamination to be
glass smooth which I would lightly sand to break the
glaze. Use
your favorite adhesive to attach the skirt to
the canopy.
I have used Monokote to cover model aircraft for 30
years and for mold making because it makes a smooth
surface without a great deal of work.
One last thought, if you put Monokote on the plexi,
only put it on the area that would be under the skirt.
To remove it from the plexi, use a small orbital
sander with a fine grit paper. I am guessing that you
would need to rough this surface up anyways. I
re-iterate, do not use solvents on the plexi.
Dave
--- Randy Lervold <randy@romeolima.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold"
> <randy@romeolima.com>
>
> Guys, the Monokote idea might just work well, and I
> have a couple of rolls
> laying around. What is Monokote actually made of,
> and is there a chance that
> epoxy resin won't stick to it? Also, how well can
> you control what/where it
> adheres? And lastly, how tough is it to get off, the
> plexi in particular?
>
> Anyone have more experience with it?
>
> Randy
>
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Nellis
> <truflite@yahoo.com>
> >
> > Kyle,
> >
> > I like the monokote idea. A couple of thoughts to
> > expand on this.
> >
> > Monokote has a very glossy finish. The resin may
> > still stick to the Monokote. Use mold release wax
> on
> > the Monokote followed with PVA mold release.
> Spray
> > multiple LIGHT coats of PVA onto the Monokote.
> PVA
> > has a tendency to bead up when sprayed over the
> wax.
> > Multiple light coats help eliminate the beading.
> When
> > finished, the the piece will pop off the Monokote
> much
> > easier.
> >
> > Acetone removes the pigment/adhesive used on
> Monokote.
> > Unless the surface beneath the Monokote is
> reactive
> > to acetone, put some acetone on a rag and wipe the
> > surface clean. Obviously, use proper ventilation
> and
> > protective safety gear.
> >
> > BTW, PVA is PolyVinyl Alcohol. Any good
> fiberglass
> > supplier will stock this item.
> >
> > Dave
> >
> >
> > --- Kyle Boatright <kboatright1@comcast.net>
> wrote:
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright"
> >> <kboatright1@comcast.net>
> >>
> >> You could try tapeing thin cardboard between the
> >> canopy and fuselage. My
> >> cardboard of preference (from making the
> empennage
> >> fairing years ago) comes
> >> from Diet Coke 12-pack cartons...
> >>
> >> Several pieces of cardboard, a little packing
> tape,
> >> and volia, female
> >> mold...
> >>
> >> Alternately, you could get yourself some Monokote
> or
> >> similar shrink film,
> >> cut it to rough shape, tape the ends to the plexi
> >> and fuselage, and shrink
> >> the stuff into the shape you want. Might even
> work.
> >> (Note- put a layer of
> >> packing tape between the monokote and your
> canopy,
> >> or risk color
> >> transfer)...
> >>
> >> KB
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
I clecoed on the rear spar of the HS and noticed a bit of gap between the skin
and the spar, even at the clecos, with clecos in every other hole. I figured
I had countersunk enough and so took it apart and went a bit deeper. (I tested
the cage on a peice of scrap again and it seemed very good, with a dimple on
another scrap peice the same thickness as the skin fitting nicely.)
Clecod it back together and in most places there is really no gap, but not quite
everywhere. I was careful to countersink the full depth on each hole - so that
no more metal was coming off. I test drove a couple rivets at the places
with the gaps and found that it remained. It's enough to insert a peice of paper
about 1/8", but no more.
The thing is, I'm afraid to really go any deeper with the cage because it was very
near the point where the hole would be enlarged.
I took a look at my QB wings and noticed that the TE skin has no gap - except near
the edges, where I *can* get a piece of paper in there a bit.
Again, the paper goes in about 1/8" - maybe halfway to where the rivet is. I think
the irregularities (some areas tigher than others) are due more to small
variations in alignment than differences in the countersinking.
Is this normal, or Ok? If you've built a HS lately, did you notice this? Am I
being a bit anal or am I right to wonder about this? Should I risk countersinking
a bit deeper, on the areas with a bit of gap?
Paul
9A QB #1176
P.S. I *did* end up completely drilling out and bending one of those problem ribs
of earlier in the week. I'm much happier with the
Message 15
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| Subject: | Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
You should not be using a counter-sink on the rear spar. These parts are
thin enough to dimple.
Don
RV7
Wiring Instrument Panel
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Folbrecht, Paul
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 5:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Gaps again - HS rear-spar-to-skin
--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul"
<PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
I clecoed on the rear spar of the HS and noticed a bit of gap between the
skin and the spar, even at the clecos, with clecos in every other hole. I
figured I had countersunk enough and so took it apart and went a bit deeper.
(I tested the cage on a peice of scrap again and it seemed very good, with a
dimple on another scrap peice the same thickness as the skin fitting
nicely.)
Clecod it back together and in most places there is really no gap, but not
quite everywhere. I was careful to countersink the full depth on each
hole - so that no more metal was coming off. I test drove a couple rivets
at the places with the gaps and found that it remained. It's enough to
insert a peice of paper about 1/8", but no more.
The thing is, I'm afraid to really go any deeper with the cage because it
was very near the point where the hole would be enlarged.
I took a look at my QB wings and noticed that the TE skin has no gap -
except near the edges, where I *can* get a piece of paper in there a bit.
Again, the paper goes in about 1/8" - maybe halfway to where the rivet is.
I think the irregularities (some areas tigher than others) are due more to
small variations in alignment than differences in the countersinking.
Is this normal, or Ok? If you've built a HS lately, did you notice this?
Am I being a bit anal or am I right to wonder about this? Should I risk
countersinking a bit deeper, on the areas with a bit of gap?
Paul
9A QB #1176
P.S. I *did* end up completely drilling out and bending one of those problem
ribs of earlier in the week. I'm much happier with the
Message 16
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| Subject: | cablecraft good customer service |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I just received a shipment of 3 control cables from Cablecraft today.
When I was handed the box - sort of a big pizza box- it was clear that
there was a big crease across the middle of it. UPS had bent it, I
guess. Anyway, one of the cables had the threaded rod at the end badly
bent. I called Cablecraft and they immediately offered to rush me a
replacement even though it wasn't their fault. The stuff is shipped
F.O.B. Cablecraft, so I should be the one going after UPS. This is a
$225 cable. They don't even want me to ship the damaged cable back to them!
I'm impressed.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
Message 17
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Beadle" <Dan.Beadle@hq.InclineSoftworks.com>
I am thinking about the IO390 for my RV8.
Did you have any trouble adapting the IO390 to the RV8. Did the cowling
fit as-is? What did you do for exhaust? What about ignition? I am
thinking FADEC would be cool, but don't know the issues here. What
real performance do you see in cruise with the ACI prop? (and
conditions)
Finally, what about insurance? Technically, the 390 is more HP than
Vans recommends. Did your insurance carrier care? I live in Sierra
Nevadas - so climb is always welcome. (We expect to have portable O2 in
the plane most of the time).
Thanks
Dan Beadle
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