Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:44 AM - Re: M T Props (Mickey Coggins)
2. 05:00 AM - Re: Re: DO NOT ARCHIVE (LarryRobertHelming)
3. 07:14 AM - Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch (Christopher Stone)
4. 08:41 AM - RV-8 flap motor (Kevin Shannon)
5. 08:56 AM - Re: Wings on their way! (al.herron@Aerojet.com (Herron, Al))
6. 09:16 AM - Need some scrap plexiglass (David Leonard)
7. 09:23 AM - Re: M T Props (LessDragProd@aol.com)
8. 10:27 AM - Re: Seat heaters (vhimsl@adelphia.net)
9. 11:20 AM - Re: Seat heaters (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
10. 01:36 PM - Re: RV-8 flap motor (Jack Blomgren)
11. 02:48 PM - Re: aileron trimming by squeezing question (LarryRobertHelming)
12. 03:43 PM - aileron triming (RVer273sb@aol.com)
13. 08:11 PM - Re: Aileron Squeezing and bracket re-locating (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
14. 09:01 PM - Re: Re: Aileron Squeezing and bracket re-locating (scott bilinski)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> Can anyone tell me anything about the electric 3 blade MT props as sold by Eggenfellner
?
>
> I would like to find the Model # and any comments would be great.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Trevor Mills 80605
Hi Trevor,
I've got one. Not flying yet. It's a MTV-7. I have an
article with links and photos here:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20050604180346524
If you search for MT Propeller on my website, you'll
find a couple of other articles discussing the installation.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: DO NOT ARCHIVE |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Jim, WADR, I take a message that does not contain some remnant of the
original message (so I know what it is about) and just delete it. Just like
this one but Jim knows but few others. Worth less if the original reference
is not there IMHO. do not archive.
Indiana Larry
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
Randy et al...
The short answer is yes... But again it will not form a molecular bond only superficial
adhesive bond. I would still recommend a mold release agent.
cs
-----Original Message-----
>From: Randy Lervold <randy@romeolima.com>
>Sent: Feb 3, 2006 8:33 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass canopy skirt from scratch
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
>> Monokote and all the other model coverings are polyester film or woven
>> polyester fiber. Polyester resin will stick to the film but will not bond
>> to it. Definitely use mold release. There are also clear films available
>> that are used as commercial masking film. Some of these I believe are
>> Mylar.
>>
>> Hope this helps...
>>
>> Chris Stone
>> Newberg, OR
>> 2x RV8
>
>Chris (or anyone), will epoxy stick to it? I'll be laying up with West
>Systems.
>
>Thanks,
>Randy
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon@seanet.com>
Hi List
I am looking for the stop-to-stop travel distance of the RV-8 flap motor,
does anyone have this info at their fingertips?
Many thanks
Kevin Shannon
HR II under const
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wings on their way! |
--> RV-List message posted by: al.herron@Aerojet.com (Herron, Al)
These are quick-build wings? A couple of reasonably healthy individuals
should suffice. If you're not unpacking the wings right away, you might do
what I did and attach some casters to the long, skinny side of the box so
you can easily move it around the shop till you're ready to unpack it.
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME=3D"Generator" CONTENT=3D"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2657.73">
Re: RV-List: Wings on their way!
These are quick-build wings? A couple of reasonably healthy individuals should
suffice. If you're not unpacking the wings right away, you might do what I did
and attach some casters to the long, skinny side of the box so you can easily
move it around the shop till you're ready to unpack it.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Need some scrap plexiglass |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Leonard <wdleonard@gmail.com>
I am finally getting around to repairing a portion of my canopy that broke
when the wind blew it down. Unfortunately, I have long since gotten rid of
all my scrap Plexiglas.
Does anyone have any extra you could send me? I will of course pay for
shipping.
I need a that is mostly flat as it is going in the rear corner of a tip up
RV-6. 10"x4" should do it. one piece would be best but I may have to make
do with a couple of smaller pieces.
Thanks,
--
Dave Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/rotaryroster/index.html
http://members.aol.com/_ht_a/vp4skydoc/index.html
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: LessDragProd@aol.com
The MTV-7-C/183-51 72" dia. MT propeller is used, as well as the
MTV-7-C/187-129 74" dia. MT propeller.
MT propellers are normally specifically matched to the
engine/airframe/aircraft performance specified as a complete assembly that bolts
onto the
engine/cowl being used.
The RV standard spinner diameter is 13" with a cowl space (distance from hub
mounting surface to the front of the cowl) of 1 1/2".
(Van specifies 2 1/4" less the spinner flange distance and spinner to cowl
distance, which is 1 1/2".)
For the RV-8 Sam James Cowl, there is a 3 7/8" cowl spacing with the
standard 13" dia. spinner. MT propeller provides a bolt on propeller assembly
to
fit this cowl without a propeller extension. There is NO aerobatic restriction
on this engine/propeller combination.
Please contact me off the list for specific MT propeller information.
_jim@lessdrag.com_ (mailto:jim@lessdrag.com)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 02/05/2006 11:44:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
millstrj@ozemail.com.au writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trevor Mills" <millstrj@ozemail.com.au>
Can anyone tell me anything about the electric 3 blade MT props as sold by
Eggenfellner ?
I would like to find the Model # and any comments would be great.
Thanks.
Trevor Mills 80605
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Seat heaters |
--> RV-List message posted by: vhimsl@adelphia.net
Shopko is unloading seat heated car seat cushions for around $15.00.
Been testing them in my car for past month and they work fine.
Put one on the Front seat of My RV8 and it fits ok.
My opinion is that it is that rarity in aviation...good and cheap.
For @ $10.00 more you can get one that massages. I passed on that one.
They're cheap enough you can tear one apart and see what makes it tick, use it
as is (recommended), or whatever. Also when it breaks, you just toss it without
having to tear apart your seats.
Another reason one may want to shy away from permanently embedded seat heaters
is that I find it pretty hard to get in and out of the RV-8 without stepping on
the seat. Over time, even if careful, this could shorten, maybe literally, the
life of the embedded heater.
Regards,
Vince H.
rv8432 VSB Finish - Get'r done mode
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Have you considered rear heat?
It works!
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/index.htm
There is a link in there for how I installed rear heat in the RV-8 using
a muff and duct tube. My wife loves me for this. Yours will too.
Enjoy,
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
vhimsl@adelphia.net
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Seat heaters
--> RV-List message posted by: vhimsl@adelphia.net
Shopko is unloading seat heated car seat cushions for around $15.00.
Been testing them in my car for past month and they work fine.
Put one on the Front seat of My RV8 and it fits ok.
My opinion is that it is that rarity in aviation...good and cheap.
For @ $10.00 more you can get one that massages. I passed on that one.
They're cheap enough you can tear one apart and see what makes it tick,
use it as is (recommended), or whatever. Also when it breaks, you just
toss it without having to tear apart your seats.
Another reason one may want to shy away from permanently embedded seat
heaters is that I find it pretty hard to get in and out of the RV-8
without stepping on the seat. Over time, even if careful, this could
shorten, maybe literally, the life of the embedded heater.
Regards,
Vince H.
rv8432 VSB Finish - Get'r done mode
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Kevin,
My -8 flap motor stop-to-stop (flap full up to fully extended) is five
inches (5.000" plus/minus 0.010")
Build Well
Jack
N8VZ should issue this month
From: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon@seanet.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 flap motor
RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon@seanet.com>
Hi List
I am looking for the stop-to-stop travel distance of the RV-8 flap motor,
does anyone have this info at their fingertips?
Many thanks
Kevin Shannon
HR II under const
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: aileron trimming by squeezing question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
>>
>> Listers,
>> Need to fix a slightly heavy right wing on a new
>> rocket. Please correct me if I am wrong here.
>> Seems one should squeeze the trailing edge
>> of the light wing. Correct???
>> Thank you, Stewart Bergner
>
You are correct the fix is to squeeze the light wing's aileron.
I have done this successfully. AND I did this very carefully. What others
have said here on the list is very true.
First, check all other things per the Van's document/instructions to see if
anything major is at fault. Then if that does not give you resolution, very
very very gently squeeze the light wing's aileron all across the length of
it. I mean squeeze it so you do not even think you are doing anything. Go
out and fly. If the wing is still heavy, tighten the adjusting tool about
1/128th of an inch. Resqueeze. Test fly. Keep doing this until you find
the right amount of squeeze. After I corrected the problem, I cannot even
see that I changed the aileron one tiny bit. It is very very suttle.
Indiana Larry, RV7 SunSeeker 80+ hours flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Diehl" <diehldon@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 05, 2006 11:46 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron trimming by squeezing question
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don Diehl <diehldon@comcast.net>
>
> My fix for a slightly heavy right wing was an aileron trim tab.
> The "tab" is a wooden wedge from the hardware store, intended to
> secure the head to a sledge hammer.
> I bonded it on using double back tape, test flew it, trimmed it for
> neutral roll, painted it then bonded it with a dab or epoxy.
> It's on the underside of the left aileron, unobtrusive and completely
> effective.
> Later I installed Van's aileron trim kit and think I should have done
> that first.
>
> BTW, my fix for a half-ball yaw caused by my imperfect installation
> of gear leg fairings was to align the fairings using washers stacked
> to 1/8 inch between the trailing edge of the fairings and the bracket
> on the fuselage.
>
> Don Diehl
> RV-4, N28EW
> Bremerton WA
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
Thanks to all that replied to my question post.
I shall proceed from here with all the info.
Thanks.
Stewart
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 13
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| Subject: | RE: Aileron Squeezing and bracket re-locating |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Scott how would you know that the aileron brackets are not installed exactly
the same or in the proper position? I went through the "use the wing rib
shape cutout made of plywood to hold the aileron and flap in position"
exercise on my RV-6A and I submit that one simply cannot be precise using
such a method.
Do you have some method of precisely locating both the bracket to the
aileron and then the aileron to the wing? Do you also have a method of
doing this on a finished airplane? And how do you know how much performance
you lose by squeezing versus relocating the hinge hole? Is it significant
enough to be worth doing one over the other? I had not heard of the "move
the aileron hinge up or down" method of doing this until recently, has Van's
changed their mind about using the squeeze method and now recommends using
the "move the bracket method" or is there a way of deciding which method to
use?
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Knee deep in Autocad and wire
__________________________ Original Messages ______________________________
--> RV-List message posted by: scott bilinski <rv8a2001@yahoo.com>
>I have found that the aileron brackets have not been installed exactly the
>same for what ever reason and one end of the aileron hangs lower than the
>other.
--> RV-List message posted by: Don Diehl
>My fix for a slightly heavy right wing was an aileron trim tab. The "tab"
>is a wooden wedge from the hardware store, intended to secure the head to a
>sledge hammer.
Scott Bilinski
RV-8a
cell 858-395-5094
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
________________________________ Message 13
____________________________________
Time: 10:31:41 AM PST US
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Hi Robin,
I have not seen any dimensions or specifications in postings on the
list. I have seen lots of RVs with wedges on the left side of their
rudders. They often are made of aluminum or wood. When I began testing
my -6A there was and obvious need for rudder trim. My solution was
trailing edge balsa made for model airplanes that I found at a hobby
shop. My procedure was to cut an arbitrary length of this material as a
starting point. I believe that I started with 10 inches. I taped it onto
the left trailing edge with the thickest part of the wedge aft using
duct tape. The 10 inches turned out to be too much. So, I cut it in half
and tried again. After several iterations, I ended up with about 6
inches length. I then finished a 6" length with the paint I used on the
plane and attached it with double stick foam tape. It has been in place
for about 60 hours and the ball is in the center at cruise speeds.
Hope this helps.
Richard Dudley
-6A 75 hours
Robin Marks wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
>
>I have a 6A with no Rudder Trim. I have seen foam style wedges that are
>applied to the lifting surface to act as fixed trim surfaces. I do not
>know what the material is, what the best angles are and how they are
>affixed onto the surface. I assume this has been discussed at length in
>the archives. Can anyone give me a lead to what they are called as I
>have looked in the archives but I don't think I am searching the proper
>terms and there are a lot of listings on trim?
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Robin
>
>RV-6A - Needs Right Rudder
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 14
____________________________________
Time: 10:43:46 AM PST US
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: aileron trimming by squeezing question
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Stewart,
Here's a link to Van's instructions:
http://vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Heavy.pdf
Terry
Listers,
Need to fix a slightly heavy right wing on a new
rocket. Please correct me if I am wrong here.
Seems one should squeeze the trailing edge
of the light wing. Correct???
Thank you, Stewart Bergner
________________________________ Message 15
____________________________________
Time: 11:42:59 AM PST US
Subject: RV-List: Re: Rudder Trim
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Robin Marks wrote:
> I have a 6A with no Rudder Trim. I have seen foam style wedges that are
> applied to the lifting surface to act as fixed trim surfaces. I do not
> know what the material is, what the best angles are and how they are
> affixed onto the surface. I assume this has been discussed at length in
> the archives. Can anyone give me a lead to what they are called as I
> have looked in the archives but I don't think I am searching the proper
> terms and there are a lot of listings on trim?Thanks, Robin RV-6A - Needs
Right
Rudder Do Not Archive
Robin
Here is the link and the description of wedge I use with great success.
http://www.epm-avcorp.com/trimtabinst.html
Here is a detail photograph of my installation:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?p=26694#post26694
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=10212#10212
________________________________ Message 16
____________________________________
Time: 11:49:51 AM PST US
Subject: RE: RV-List: Rudder Trim
From: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
Richard,
Thanks, that helps a lot. Did you place the trim high on the
rudder, low on the rudder? (seems like I have see them on the lower
section below the horz. stab) Did you place it perpendicular to the
horizon or running along the trailing edge?
Thanks,
Robin
________________________________ Message 17
____________________________________
Time: 12:47:02 PM PST US
From: Gerald Richardson <gerric@shaw.ca>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin GMA 346 audio panel
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerald Richardson <gerric@shaw.ca>
Does anyone have a copy of the Garmin GMA 347 audio panel
installation and operational manual.
Also what experiences have you had with it.
Any comments on the duplex telephone interface
Thanks
Gerald Richardson
Medicine Hat, Alberta
Canada
--
02/04/2006
________________________________ Message 18
____________________________________
Time: 12:47:03 PM PST US
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sherwin williams GBP-988 question.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> For what it's worth, i'll be switching to Marhyde when I finish the SW can
> i'm using now. The people who have used both seem to agree that Marhyde
> provides a tougher, more durable finish.
Having used both products I'd agree with this assessment. But I prefer SEM
to them both in terms of both the finish it leaves and its durability. To
those that apply the primer without first Scothbriting the surface, no
question it does NOT adhere as well. Dip your Scotchbrite pad in your
solvent of choice when scuffing and you degrease at the same time. Here's my
two cents worth...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Primer
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
________________________________ Message 19
____________________________________
Time: 01:19:23 PM PST US
From: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Garmin GMA 346 audio panel
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
See if this link works:
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/Downloads/howtogetagarminmanual.htm
>Does anyone have a copy of the Garmin GMA 347 audio panel
>installation and operational manual.
________________________________ Message 20
____________________________________
Time: 02:03:50 PM PST US
From: Bert Murillo <bertrv6@gmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Great News FAA Medicals
--> RV-List message posted by: Bert Murillo <bertrv6@gmail.com>
Hi:
I want to share the recent news, that medical examiners, will be
permitted to reissue
3rd. class medical certificates, for pilots with Cardiovascular conditions.
(list 5 conditions) you take all documents to the AME he or she will issue
the certificate.
The article is too long, but I encourage every one interested, to go to Aopa
on line,
\and read it..this will start in early 2006...
As I have said before, AOPA really works for General Aviation and they have
the clout to do it...I hope every rv. builder is a member...we help them,
and help
ourselves...
If any one has any questions, contact me off list ( I am just a member)
Bert
rv6a
Do not archive
________________________________ Message 21
____________________________________
Time: 02:25:57 PM PST US
From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: DO NOT ARCHIVE (and quoting too!)
--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Jim Anglin wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Anglin" <n144hr@earthlink.net>
>
>A very simple solution
>
snip
>And PLEASE stop quoting the messages in your reply. I don't believe there
is
anyone here who will not know what you are talking about when reading your
reply
post. It is redundant, and stupid to believe that a message needs to be
included
in a reply as long as the subject line is correct.
>
Sorry, I disagree. I see lots of emails with only a reply ..... and
sometimes the reply doesn't fit the subject. It is redundant. Stupid?
I don't think so. Maybe folks could trim comments past the last one???
I dunno.
Linn
>
>jim (do i need to add do not archive ?)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 22
____________________________________
Time: 04:43:23 PM PST US
From: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rudder Trim
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Robin,
I can't look at it right now but, I believe that I put the wedge about
midway on the rudder. The trailing edge of the wedge is flush with the
trailing edge of the rudder. I think that the actual position along the
trailing edge of the rudder is not important. I placed it where it
looked ok to me.
Regards,
Richard
Robin Marks wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
>
>Richard,
> Thanks, that helps a lot. Did you place the trim high on the
>rudder, low on the rudder? (seems like I have see them on the lower
>section below the horz. stab) Did you place it perpendicular to the
>horizon or running along the trailing edge?
>
>Thanks,
>Robin
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 23
____________________________________
Time: 07:19:00 PM PST US
From: Rick McCraw <rmccraw@s4t.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto signature
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick McCraw <rmccraw@s4t.net>
I am not a great fan of irrelevant messages, although I don't object
strongly. That said, I am not excited about adding Do Not Archive to an
autosignature. I, too, forget to add Do Not Archive, and I'm sure I'd
forget to remove it were it there automatically.
In short, I would rather have some chaff in the archives than to lose
valuable stuff because the author forgot to remove the DNA language.
While we're at it: There is good stuff in the archives that is
effectively lost because of misspellings in the subject line. It screws
up the search (I assume). We all misspell things occasionally, but is
there a reason not to correct the inevitable misspellings when they occur?
Rick McCraw
RV-7
________________________________ Message 24
____________________________________
Time: 11:42:08 PM PST US
From: "Trevor Mills" <millstrj@ozemail.com.au>
Subject: RV-List: M T Props
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trevor Mills" <millstrj@ozemail.com.au>
Can anyone tell me anything about the electric 3 blade MT props as sold by
Eggenfellner
?
I would like to find the Model # and any comments would be great.
Thanks.
Trevor Mills 80605
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Aileron Squeezing and bracket re-locating |
--> RV-List message posted by: scott bilinski <rv8a2001@yahoo.com>
Basically you move the hinge when squeezing the TE is not enough. For me I had
a very heavy right wing. I did the squeeze thing and it helped but not enough.
I then saw Dan's web site and notice what he did and it imediately made sense.
I measured the aileron gap to top wing skin, with the aileron in a neutral position.
The right wing, from the cockpit, was good. the left wing, the inner
hinge was lower by about .050. I moved the hinge .030 and it helped greatly, need
to change ity to the full .050.
Scott how would you know that the aileron brackets are not installed exactly
the same or in the proper position?
Good question. I am not sure.
I went through the "use the wing rib shape cutout made of plywood to hold the
aileron and flap in position" exercise on my RV-6A and I submit that one simply
cannot be precise using such a method.
You are correct.
Do you have some method of precisely locating both the bracket to the
aileron and then the aileron to the wing?
I finished building 2 years ago and dont remember the details exactly. There
was no rocket sicence involved when I did it.....I think I just put them in place
thinking it would be right.......if had to do it over again I would just be
more careful.
Do you also have a method of doing this on a finished airplane?
On a finished airplane just like Dan's web site shows.
And how do you know how much performance you lose by squeezing versus relocating
the hinge hole?
I know of no performance loss or gain.
Is it significant enough to be worth doing one over the other? I had not heard
of the "move the aileron hinge up or down" method of doing this until recently,
has Van's changed their mind about using the squeeze method and now recommends
using the "move the bracket method" or is there a way of deciding which method
to use?
The only time you move the bracket is when the squeeze method wont work. Van's
for legal reason will never approve of people doing this.
Scott
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