Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:04 AM - Sealing Tank Access Covers (Francis Malczynski)
2. 05:04 AM - Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Rick Galati)
3. 07:04 AM - Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Larry Mersek)
4. 08:16 AM - Re: Torx head screws? (Glaeser, Dennis A)
5. 08:34 AM - Re: Torx head screws? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
6. 09:14 AM - New-Never Used Jon Johanson Seats (Robin Marks)
7. 09:26 AM - Re: Re: Torx head screws? (Ed Holyoke)
8. 09:47 AM - Re: Re: Torx head screws? (Ed Holyoke)
9. 10:07 AM - Re: Re: Torx head screws? (Dan Checkoway)
10. 10:16 AM - Seat Weight (DAVID REEL)
11. 02:06 PM - Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Bill Schlatterer)
12. 02:20 PM - Re: Torx head screws? (Herron, Al)
13. 02:21 PM - borescopes (rv6n6r@comcast.net)
14. 02:41 PM - Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (rv6n6r@comcast.net)
15. 04:15 PM - Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Chuck)
16. 04:39 PM - Re: Torx head screws? (Kevin Horton)
17. 04:49 PM - Vans instruments (Greg@itmack)
18. 04:53 PM - Announcing RV-3 Registry (Randy Lervold)
19. 04:56 PM - Re: borescopes (Alex Peterson)
20. 05:32 PM - Re: Re: Torx head screws? (Ed Holyoke)
21. 05:32 PM - Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (rv6n6r@comcast.net)
22. 06:56 PM - Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Paul Trotter)
23. 07:20 PM - Wing Tips (Fred Stucklen)
24. 07:33 PM - Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Doug Weiler)
25. 08:29 PM - Re: Wing Tips (Tim Bryan)
26. 09:43 PM - Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Vanremog@aol.com)
27. 09:43 PM - Re: Vans instruments (Vanremog@aol.com)
28. 10:05 PM - New Guy questions ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
I've been watching with interest the comments on the difficulty in removing
tank access covers that had been pro-sealed. When I built my RV6 (completed
9/2002)I used the cork rubber gasket material from NAPA and a product called
Fuel Lube (commonly called peanut butter by A&P's)on both sides of the
gasket and have not seen any leaks in the three plus years since I've been
flying. I have also used it to seal fittings in oil and fuel lines. I have
not removed my tank access covers yet, but based my experience with other
applications I anticipate no problems or destruction of the access covers.
I'll update this E-Mail once I remove the access plates and let you all know
how it turns out.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, NY
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Dean,
My early 2000 vintage RV-6A slowbuild kit came equipped with cork gaskets for the
fuel tanks. I really didn't know about the O-ring deal at the time. I just
installed the access covers and cork gaskets with the kit supplied hardware
per an Orndorff construction video suggesting the use of medium weight Titeseal
as an alternative to proseal. Post-construction pressure tests with a toy balloon
indicated no leaks and has to date proven to be troublefree in service.
Because of this unexpected development, I went ahead and ordered fresh gaskets
to comply with the SB. I should note I recently asked Van's what THEY use
on their fleet. I learned that they too use proseal to seal the tank covers.
Personally, I intend to go the Titeseal route again. Sold in a 1 pound can,
I've got plenty left over, that's for sure.
http://tinyurl.com/nxvz8
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 112 hours
dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz wrote:
> ................. My access covers came from Van's with CORK gaskets! .............
use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant) along
with some appropriate gasket sealer.....................ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES
MOST OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS COVERS????
> By using the pro-seal you have created an obvious DETRIMENT to easy access and
I'm sure that's part of the reason some of you are groaning so loudly. I know,
I know, it'll never leak with the pro-seal but this the SECOND bulletin in
5 years concerning something INSIDE the tanks (the first being the anti-rotation
bracket). Obviously one cannot count on NEVER having to take the access cover
off so let's find a less painful method than the pro-seal!!! There has to
be a better way!! As I said, I'm ignorant about how good this will work because
I have not experienced it. Those of you who have used the cork (or synthetic
rubber) with gasket seal know the answer...educate me. Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DMAutocad and Tefzel
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=19331#19331
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Mersek" <1rv6flyer@internet49.com>
Is fuel lube still available and if so, where can you purchase it? Does it
harden like pro-seal or does it remain soft as does the tight seal?
Larry Mersek
N336RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 5:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Sealing Tank Access Covers
| --> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
|
|
| I've been watching with interest the comments on the difficulty in
removing
| tank access covers that had been pro-sealed. When I built my RV6
(completed
| 9/2002)I used the cork rubber gasket material from NAPA and a product
called
| Fuel Lube (commonly called peanut butter by A&P's)on both sides of the
| gasket and have not seen any leaks in the three plus years since I've been
| flying. I have also used it to seal fittings in oil and fuel lines. I have
| not removed my tank access covers yet, but based my experience with other
| applications I anticipate no problems or destruction of the access covers.
| I'll update this E-Mail once I remove the access plates and let you all
know
| how it turns out.
|
| Fran Malczynski
| RV6 - N594EF
| Olcott, NY
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Torx head screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
I called MicroFasteners, and their '6 Lobe Drive' is a Torx drive by
another name - for both the flush and pan head screws.
McMaster-Carr has a very good selection of Torx screws. MicroFasteners
and McMaster-Carr seem to be the only sources I can find.
I plan on using Torx in place of all of the AN Phillips head screws (#6
and #8). The closest thing to a 'structural' use for any of these
screws I see is the tank screws - and I have no problem using them there
(subject of a previous discussion).
My wings/tanks are finished and hanging up while I work on the fuselage.
I can't wait to remove the ProSealed Phillips head screws on my tank
access plates :-) I will be re-sealing them with the Tite Seal that
Rick Galati suggested (thanks!) and Torx screws.
Dennis Glaeser
7A Fuselage
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 03/02/2006 7:28:44 PM Central Standard Time,
khorton01@rogers.com writes:
The say "6 Lobe Drive", which is ambiguous to me. But that is the same
thing they call the 100 deg head ones, and they list a Torx size in the
listing:
>>> Man, I can only hope so- then I can replace the rest of the phillips
screws on my plane! You WILL let us know what the say!
Mark Phillips and do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Torx head screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 3/2/06 10:51:40 PM Central Standard Time, Vanremog@aol.com
writes:
> Talk about get screwed at birth ;o)
>
>>
Now THAT was priceless, GV! Can't wait to run it by my Dad! 8-)
Mark do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | New-Never Used Jon Johanson Seats |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robin Marks" <robin@mrmoisture.com>
RV-List,
I have two new-never used Jon Johanson seats that I have no
need for at this time. If you are interested please visit this page:
http://www.painttheweb.com/rv_seat/
Regards,
Robin
RV-4 Sold
RV-6A 250 Hours
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Torx head screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Note that McMaster Carr does not carry 10 degree flat head screws in any
drive style. Their flat head screws are 87 degrees and don't match our
countersink and dimple profile.
They do have some nice black-oxide stainless button head screws with
Allen drive that look great on instrument panels.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glaeser, Dennis
A
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 8:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Torx head screws?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A"
<dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
I called MicroFasteners, and their '6 Lobe Drive' is a Torx drive by
another name - for both the flush and pan head screws.
McMaster-Carr has a very good selection of Torx screws. MicroFasteners
and McMaster-Carr seem to be the only sources I can find.
I plan on using Torx in place of all of the AN Phillips head screws (#6
and #8). The closest thing to a 'structural' use for any of these
screws I see is the tank screws - and I have no problem using them there
(subject of a previous discussion).
My wings/tanks are finished and hanging up while I work on the fuselage.
I can't wait to remove the ProSealed Phillips head screws on my tank
access plates :-) I will be re-sealing them with the Tite Seal that
Rick Galati suggested (thanks!) and Torx screws.
Dennis Glaeser
7A Fuselage
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 03/02/2006 7:28:44 PM Central Standard Time,
khorton01@rogers.com writes:
The say "6 Lobe Drive", which is ambiguous to me. But that is the same
thing they call the 100 deg head ones, and they list a Torx size in the
listing:
>>> Man, I can only hope so- then I can replace the rest of the phillips
screws on my plane! You WILL let us know what the say!
Mark Phillips and do not archive
Message 8
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|
| Subject: | Re: Torx head screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
That was supposed to read 100 degree.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Holyoke
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Torx head screws?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Note that McMaster Carr does not carry 10 degree flat head screws in any
drive style. Their flat head screws are 87 degrees and don't match our
countersink and dimple profile.
They do have some nice black-oxide stainless button head screws with
Allen drive that look great on instrument panels.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glaeser, Dennis
A
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 8:13 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Torx head screws?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A"
<dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
I called MicroFasteners, and their '6 Lobe Drive' is a Torx drive by
another name - for both the flush and pan head screws.
McMaster-Carr has a very good selection of Torx screws. MicroFasteners
and McMaster-Carr seem to be the only sources I can find.
I plan on using Torx in place of all of the AN Phillips head screws (#6
and #8). The closest thing to a 'structural' use for any of these
screws I see is the tank screws - and I have no problem using them there
(subject of a previous discussion).
My wings/tanks are finished and hanging up while I work on the fuselage.
I can't wait to remove the ProSealed Phillips head screws on my tank
access plates :-) I will be re-sealing them with the Tite Seal that
Rick Galati suggested (thanks!) and Torx screws.
Dennis Glaeser
7A Fuselage
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 03/02/2006 7:28:44 PM Central Standard Time,
khorton01@rogers.com writes:
The say "6 Lobe Drive", which is ambiguous to me. But that is the same
thing they call the 100 deg head ones, and they list a Torx size in the
listing:
>>> Man, I can only hope so- then I can replace the rest of the phillips
screws on my plane! You WILL let us know what the say!
Mark Phillips and do not archive
Message 9
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|
| Subject: | Re: Torx head screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
McMaster absolutely does carry 100 degree flat head screws. See p/n
93085A146 (6-32 x 3/8") or 93085A194 (8-32 x 1/2") for example. I use both
of those in numerous locations on my airplane.
When you go to www.mcmaster.com, enter "machine screws" in the Find box, and
it brings up a wizard to drill down to what you want.
On a slightly related topic, in case anybody's redoing tank inspection
covers, the screws I used there are also from McMaster: p/n 92949A194 - 18-8
Stainless Steel Button Head Socket Cap Screw 8-32 Thread, 1/2" Length
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Torx head screws?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Note that McMaster Carr does not carry 10 degree flat head screws in any
> drive style. Their flat head screws are 87 degrees and don't match our
> countersink and dimple profile.
>
> They do have some nice black-oxide stainless button head screws with
> Allen drive that look great on instrument panels.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glaeser, Dennis
> A
> Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 8:13 AM
> To: RV-List@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Torx head screws?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A"
> <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
>
> I called MicroFasteners, and their '6 Lobe Drive' is a Torx drive by
> another name - for both the flush and pan head screws.
>
> McMaster-Carr has a very good selection of Torx screws. MicroFasteners
> and McMaster-Carr seem to be the only sources I can find.
>
> I plan on using Torx in place of all of the AN Phillips head screws (#6
> and #8). The closest thing to a 'structural' use for any of these
> screws I see is the tank screws - and I have no problem using them there
> (subject of a previous discussion).
> My wings/tanks are finished and hanging up while I work on the fuselage.
> I can't wait to remove the ProSealed Phillips head screws on my tank
> access plates :-) I will be re-sealing them with the Tite Seal that
> Rick Galati suggested (thanks!) and Torx screws.
>
> Dennis Glaeser
> 7A Fuselage
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
> In a message dated 03/02/2006 7:28:44 PM Central Standard Time,
> khorton01@rogers.com writes:
> The say "6 Lobe Drive", which is ambiguous to me. But that is the same
> thing they call the 100 deg head ones, and they list a Torx size in the
> listing:
>>>> Man, I can only hope so- then I can replace the rest of the phillips
> screws on my plane! You WILL let us know what the say!
> Mark Phillips and do not archive
>
>
>
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I just got seats for my RV8A. Here's what they weigh:
Rear seat bottom 5lb 8oz
back 6lb 1oz
Front seat bottom 6lb 1oz
back 4lb 2oz for a total of 21lb 12oz. (includes aluminum seat
backs)
This seems like a lot to me & I wonder what other weight conscious souls have found.
My seats are solid foam with 2" medium density memory foam tops. Bottoms
are 1/2" plywood.
Guess who got their airworthiness certificate today?
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 11
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| Subject: | Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Aircraft Spruce and goes by Seal Lube. Pliable so far after about 8 months.
Bill S
7a wiring
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Mersek
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 9:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing Tank Access Covers
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Mersek" <1rv6flyer@internet49.com>
Is fuel lube still available and if so, where can you purchase it? Does it
harden like pro-seal or does it remain soft as does the tight seal?
Larry Mersek
N336RV
----- Original Message -----
From: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 5:00 AM
Subject: RV-List: Sealing Tank Access Covers
| --> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
|
|
| I've been watching with interest the comments on the difficulty in
removing
| tank access covers that had been pro-sealed. When I built my RV6
(completed
| 9/2002)I used the cork rubber gasket material from NAPA and a product
called
| Fuel Lube (commonly called peanut butter by A&P's)on both sides of the
| gasket and have not seen any leaks in the three plus years since I've been
| flying. I have also used it to seal fittings in oil and fuel lines. I have
| not removed my tank access covers yet, but based my experience with other
| applications I anticipate no problems or destruction of the access covers.
| I'll update this E-Mail once I remove the access plates and let you all
know
| how it turns out.
|
| Fran Malczynski
| RV6 - N594EF
| Olcott, NY
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Torx head screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Herron, Al" <Al.Herron@Aerojet.com>
I highly recommend the MicroFasteners site for Torx fasteners - I haven't
checked out McMaster yet, but I will. One word of caution: it is possible
to strip out a Torx fastener, though it's not as easy as stripping a
Phillips head. Use caution if you're driving into a friction-lock type of
nutplate, these will sometimes created enough resistance to strip the head.
If the self-locking feature isn't critical for the particular location, try
running a tap though the nutplate first.
After trying to get old Phillips screws out 40-year old skin panels on my
Cessna, I decided early on to put Torx or Allen head fasteners on my RV
wherever possible.
Al Herron
RV-7A
Dissembling my Torx-fastened instrument panel for the umpteenth time.
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
Anyone have recommendations for borescopes? I'm looking at the following ones for
possible addition to the Home Wing / EAA105 tool crib.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91564
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46703
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46506
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
> Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
> along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws
> with the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST
> OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS
> COVERS????
I have the disadvantage of not having read any of the posts but perhaps my direct
experience with taking the prosealed covers off will make up for that...?
;-)
I think there's a lot bigger deal made about this by people who think it will be
difficult than by people who have actually done it. I have and its no big deal.
A sharp putty knife with rounded off corners will make quick work of it. Then
scrape off as much as you can of the resedue and clean the last little bit
with acetone, mek or naptha.
The recent post by the guy who used the "cork-and-fuel lube" method was the first
one of those I've heard of that was successful. Nearly everyone I know who
tried that (and there have been quite a few over the years) ended up with leaks
around the gasket. In fact when I first sealed up my tanks I did it that way,
but redid it with proseal before final assembly after seeing and hearing so
many stories about it.
Once and for all -- it's NOT a big deal to get the prosealed plates off. Any other
method is inviting leaks around the plates, which is more of a pain than what
you're trying to avoid.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws
with the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST
OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS
COVERS????
I have the disadvantage of not having read any of the posts but perhaps my direct
experience with taking the prosealed covers off will make up for that...? ;-)
I think there's a lot bigger deal made about this by people who think it will be
difficult than by people who have actually done it. I have and its no big deal.
A sharp putty knife with rounded off corners will make quick work of it. Then
scrape off as much as you can of the resedue and clean the last little bit
with acetone, mek or naptha.
The recent post by the guy who used the "cork-and-fuel lube" method was the first
one of those I've heard of that was successful. Nearly everyone I know who
tried that (and there have been quite a few over the years) ended up with leaks
around the gasket. In fact when I first sealed up my tanks I did it that way,
but redid it with proseal before final assembly after seeing and hearing so
many stories about it.
Once and for all -- it's NOT a big deal to get the prosealed plates off. Any other
method is inviting leaks around the plates, which is more of a pain than what
you're trying to avoid.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
Randall,
I too used Proseal because I've personally seen leaks from cork & fuel-lube.
I have had to remove my inspection/access plates from my fuel tanks. And I
KNOW it was one helluva' BIG DEAL ! (obviously .... YMMV).
I bent the plates, and made new ones, and then Prosealed 'em back on when I was
done; but only because I didn'y know a better way. Now that I've heard of
the correct type of RTV, I will try that if there's a next time. * I sure
hope when/if I open her up again I have the luck you had, 'cuz the last time
was absolute sheer misery.
Chuck
rv6n6r@comcast.net wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
> Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
> along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws
> with the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST
> OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS
> COVERS????
I have the disadvantage of not having read any of the posts but perhaps my direct
experience with taking the prosealed covers off will make up for that...? ;-)
I think there's a lot bigger deal made about this by people who think it will be
difficult than by people who have actually done it. I have and its no big deal.
A sharp putty knife with rounded off corners will make quick work of it. Then
scrape off as much as you can of the resedue and clean the last little bit
with acetone, mek or naptha.
The recent post by the guy who used the "cork-and-fuel lube" method was the first
one of those I've heard of that was successful. Nearly everyone I know who
tried that (and there have been quite a few over the years) ended up with leaks
around the gasket. In fact when I first sealed up my tanks I did it that way,
but redid it with proseal before final assembly after seeing and hearing so
many stories about it.
Once and for all -- it's NOT a big deal to get the prosealed plates off. Any other
method is inviting leaks around the plates, which is more of a pain than what
you're trying to avoid.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws
with the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST
OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS
COVERS????
I have the disadvantage of not having read any of the posts but perhaps my direct
experience with taking the prosealed covers off will make up for that...? ;-)
I think there's a lot bigger deal made about this by people who think it will be
difficult than by people who have actually done it. I have and its no big deal.
A sharp putty knife with rounded off corners will make quick work of it. Then
scrape off as much as you can of the resedue and clean the last little bit
with acetone, mek or naptha.
The recent post by the guy who used the "cork-and-fuel lube" method was the first
one of those I've heard of that was successful. Nearly everyone I know who
tried that (and there have been quite a few over the years) ended up with leaks
around the gasket. In fact when I first sealed up my tanks I did it that way,
but redid it with proseal before final assembly after seeing and hearing so
many stories about it.
Once and for all -- it's NOT a big deal to get the prosealed plates off. Any other
method is inviting leaks around the plates, which is more of a pain than what
you're trying to avoid.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
---------------------------------
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Torx head screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 2 Mar 2006, at 21:00, Richard McBride wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard McBride" <rickrv8@msn.com>
>
> I looked at my invoices and the item numbers for the button head
> hex screws I purchased were SBSxxxx. The countersunk torx were all
> FCMXSxxxx item numbers. It appears from the description that the
> ones you're looking at (SBXS) are torx. Please let us know what
> you find out. If they are, I'm going to start replacing all my hex
> screws.
MicroFasteners responded that the following button head screws have
Torx receptacles.
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSCFCMXS.cfm
Kevin Horton
Message 17
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| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
| Subject: | Vans instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Hi all, I've been searching the archives for references to Vans instruments such
as the ASI and Alt. I vaguely recall people complaining they are cheap Chinese
instruments and are difficult if not impossible to calibrate. Vans web site
has them made by UMA which I presume is US manufacture. Anyone have any comments
or experiences.
Thanks,
Greg RV8 buying & fitting instruments
82070
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Announcing RV-3 Registry |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
As an RV-3 builder I thought the RV-3 community would find a registry useful to keep track of the RV-3 fleet. I've therefore begun a registry on my web site, www.rv-3.com, and am now seeking entries.
If you know anyone with a flying RV-3 please pass along this notice, us RV-3ers
need to stick together. ;-)
Thanks,
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
>
> Anyone have recommendations for borescopes? I'm looking at
> the following ones for possible addition to the Home Wing /
> EAA105 tool crib.
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91564
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46703
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46506
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
Randall, I would try to find out the number of fibers (pixels) that each
has, or at the very least, have a look through one if they stock them at
their stores. Good scopes of this sort are almost 10x that price. I plan
to buy a used endoscope from a surplus medical equipment supplier here in
town. I believe that I can get a flexible one with a light source for
around $200 or less. The brightness of the light is more important than it
might seem.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A N66AP 721 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Torx head screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
I stand corrected. I couldn't find them when I searched on machine
screws.
Ed
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 10:06 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Torx head screws?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
McMaster absolutely does carry 100 degree flat head screws. See p/n
93085A146 (6-32 x 3/8") or 93085A194 (8-32 x 1/2") for example. I use
both
of those in numerous locations on my airplane.
When you go to www.mcmaster.com, enter "machine screws" in the Find box,
and
it brings up a wizard to drill down to what you want.
On a slightly related topic, in case anybody's redoing tank inspection
covers, the screws I used there are also from McMaster: p/n 92949A194 -
18-8
Stainless Steel Button Head Socket Cap Screw 8-32 Thread, 1/2" Length
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Torx head screws?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Note that McMaster Carr does not carry 10 degree flat head screws in
any
> drive style. Their flat head screws are 87 degrees and don't match our
> countersink and dimple profile.
>
> They do have some nice black-oxide stainless button head screws with
> Allen drive that look great on instrument panels.
>
> Pax,
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glaeser,
Dennis
> A
> Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 8:13 AM
> To: RV-List@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Torx head screws?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A"
> <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
>
> I called MicroFasteners, and their '6 Lobe Drive' is a Torx drive by
> another name - for both the flush and pan head screws.
>
> McMaster-Carr has a very good selection of Torx screws.
MicroFasteners
> and McMaster-Carr seem to be the only sources I can find.
>
> I plan on using Torx in place of all of the AN Phillips head screws
(#6
> and #8). The closest thing to a 'structural' use for any of these
> screws I see is the tank screws - and I have no problem using them
there
> (subject of a previous discussion).
> My wings/tanks are finished and hanging up while I work on the
fuselage.
> I can't wait to remove the ProSealed Phillips head screws on my tank
> access plates :-) I will be re-sealing them with the Tite Seal that
> Rick Galati suggested (thanks!) and Torx screws.
>
> Dennis Glaeser
> 7A Fuselage
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
> In a message dated 03/02/2006 7:28:44 PM Central Standard Time,
> khorton01@rogers.com writes:
> The say "6 Lobe Drive", which is ambiguous to me. But that is the same
> thing they call the 100 deg head ones, and they list a Torx size in
the
> listing:
>>>> Man, I can only hope so- then I can replace the rest of the
phillips
> screws on my plane! You WILL let us know what the say!
> Mark Phillips and do not archive
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I too used Proseal because I've personally seen leaks from cork & fuel-lube.
> I have had to remove my inspection/access plates from my fuel tanks.
> And I KNOW it was one helluva' BIG DEAL ! (obviously .... YMMV).
Okay I stand corrected -- I guess that goes to show you there are no "absolutes".
Maybe a matter of technique? You do need to get the stuff all pretty much cut
with the knife before trying to pry it off. Helps to have a knife with a good
handle so you can tap it with a hammer. Also I should qualify my earlier post
to say I did it with the tanks off. I really wouldn't want to have to do this
with the tanks on -- that definitely would be a PITA. Sure am glad I didn't
paint over the screw heads :-)
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Chuck chuck515tigger@yahoo.com wrote:
I too used Proseal because I've personally seen leaks from cork fuel-lube.
I have had to remove my inspection/access plates from my fuel tanks.
And I KNOW it was one helluva' BIG DEAL ! (obviously .... YMMV).
Okay I stand corrected -- I guess that goes to show you there are no "absolutes".
Maybe a matter of technique? You do need toget the stuff all pretty much cut
with the knife before trying topry it off. Helps to have a knife with a good
handle so you can tap it with a hammer. Also I should qualify my earlier post
to say I did it with the tanks off. I really wouldn't want to have to do this
with the tanks on -- that definitely would be a PITA. Sure am glad I didn't paint
over the screw heads :-)
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
Dean,
The problem with the cork gasket comes in a couple of places. Many times
leaks can occur through the threads in the screws and out under the heads.
Also, many people over tighten the screws which deforms the panel enough to
cause a leak between the screws. Screws should be tightened down evenly
with enough torque to hold the plate firmly against the cork gasket without
deforming it.
On my tank, I used self-sealing nutplates which prevent any fuel from
entering the screw threads. I also went overboard and used screws with
o-rings under the head. I used this with the cork gasket. I have not
filled my tanks yet, but they hold air pressure just fine. If I were to do
it again, I probably would have used an access panel sealant and skipped the
gasket. If you go with o-ring screws, make sure they have viton o-rings as
the normal o-ring is not resistant to fuel and will deteriorate.
The biggest complaint I have with the SB is that it will make it very
difficult to replace the flop tube if necessary without going through the
entire process again.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 12:55 AM
Subject: RV-List: Sealing Tank Access Covers
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
> <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>
> Ok guys call me ignorant but I have not yet installed my finished tanks
> (for
> the last time) and filled them with fuel. My access covers came from
> Van's
> with CORK gaskets! Someone on this list mentioned using fuel tank
> nutplates
> with built in O-rings when building their tanks to eliminate the need for
> pro-seal on the screw heads. I can't do that because I didn't know about
> them when building my tanks BUT, I can use special access cover screws
> with
> O-rings built into the heads to achieve the same goal.
>
> Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
> along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws with
> the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST OF YOU ARE GOING
> THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS COVERS????
>
> By using the pro-seal you have created an obvious DETRIMENT to easy access
> and I'm sure that's part of the reason some of you are groaning so loudly.
> I know, I know, it'll never leak with the pro-seal but this the SECOND
> bulletin in 5 years concerning something INSIDE the tanks (the first being
> the anti-rotation bracket). Obviously one cannot count on NEVER having to
> take the access cover off so let's find a less painful method than the
> pro-seal!!! There has to be a better way!! As I said, I'm ignorant about
> how good this will work because I have not experienced it. Those of you
> who
> have used the cork (or synthetic rubber) with gasket seal know the
> answer...educate me. Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Autocad and Tefzel
>
>
>
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
I'm looking for a set of wing tips for an RV-6 that don't have the
landing lights in them.
These would have been the standard parts supplied with a kit that might
have been
replaces with a different pair.
Anyone have a set out there that they want to sell?
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
Fellow Listers:
Seems like the access tank sealing issue is getting rather complex. Here is
my proven solution (no leaks after 10 years in my previous RV-4).:
1. Use the cork gasket.
2. Apply Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket to both sides of the cork gasket.
3. Use capscrews and washers to attach cover.
4. Do not over tighten.
5. Apply small fillet of Pro Seal around the edges of screws.
6. Done - no leaks
Doug Weiler
N722DW, RV-4
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
Boy, if you would have asked this a month ago, I would have given mine up
and bought some of the newer style. What makes you want to use them?
Do Not Archive
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Fred Stucklen
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tips
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
I'm looking for a set of wing tips for an RV-6 that don't have the
landing lights in them.
These would have been the standard parts supplied with a kit that might
have been
replaces with a different pair.
Anyone have a set out there that they want to sell?
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/3/2006 7:33:48 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dcw@mnwing.org writes:
Seems like the access tank sealing issue is getting rather complex. Here is
my proven solution (no leaks after 10 years in my previous RV-4).:
1. Use the cork gasket.
2. Apply Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket to both sides of the cork gasket.
3. Use capscrews and washers to attach cover.
4. Do not over tighten.
5. Apply small fillet of Pro Seal around the edges of screws.
6. Done - no leaks
=====================================
This is essentially what I did, only I used O-ring equipped screws (from
McMaster) for the cover fasteners (hence no need for washers and Proseal) and
8
yrs later have had no leaks.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Vans instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/3/2006 4:52:16 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
greg@itmack.com writes:
I've been searching the archives for references to Vans instruments such as
the ASI and Alt. I vaguely recall people complaining they are cheap Chinese
instruments and are difficult if not impossible to calibrate. Vans web site
has them made by UMA which I presume is US manufacture. Anyone have any
comments or experiences.
=========================================
I only have an UMA vacuum gauge and it is fine.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 28
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| Subject: | New Guy questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: <jbario@sbcglobal.net>
Howdy to all. I have been reading the postings to this list for a few weeks and
have learned a lot. My partner and I have been working on the tail feathers
for a RV-8A since 2/1 and expect to finish in a week or so. We will then start
on the QB wings which leads me to a few questions
1. I noticed in Vans Catalog an Airtech Wingtip Lens Kit. We looked at the Vans
QB wing tip and lenses briefly this evening and (naively perhaps) it didn't
appear to require an mod kit such as the Airtech. Any feedback?
2. Some people apparently using the Nav AV antenna in the wingtips. Are these
antennas also useful for Localizer and Glide Slope signals? We assume one needs
to install one of these antennas in each wingtip (total of 2). Any reports
on their effectiveness vice externally mounted NAV/LOC/GS antennas? What is
the best type of coax to use these days for a rookie airplane builder?
Jim Barrilleaux
Grass Valley, CA
RV-8A tail feathers
jbario@sbcglobal.net
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