Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:51 AM - Re: Wing Tips (Paul Rice)
2. 05:18 AM - Re: Vans instruments (wskimike)
3. 05:18 AM - Re: New Guy questions (wskimike)
4. 05:30 AM - O ring screw??Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Ed Anderson)
5. 05:49 AM - Eletric Gyro (Steve Glasgow)
6. 05:57 AM - Re: O ring screw??Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Paul Trotter)
7. 05:58 AM - Re: Vans instruments (Steve Struyk)
8. 06:10 AM - Re: O ring screw??Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Ed Anderson)
9. 06:12 AM - Re: FI and manual elevator trim (Alison and Neil)
10. 07:07 AM - Re: New Guy questions (Kevin Horton)
11. 07:46 AM - Fuel Lube (Francis Malczynski)
12. 07:47 AM - Re: borescopes (David Burton)
13. 08:24 AM - Re: borescopes (gert)
14. 08:52 AM - Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Doug Fischer)
15. 08:52 AM - Re: O ring screw??Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Vanremog@aol.com)
16. 08:59 AM - Re: Torx head screws? (Doug Fischer)
17. 09:17 AM - Re: New Guy questions (Sam Buchanan)
18. 10:39 AM - Re: Torx head screws? (Tedd McHenry)
19. 12:56 PM - Re: Air Compressor Repair Help (JIM)
20. 02:31 PM - Re: New Guy questions (Rick Galati)
21. 02:53 PM - Re: Fuel Lube (Ken Howell)
22. 02:56 PM - Re: O ring screw??Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers (Ed Anderson)
23. 05:13 PM - Re: New Guy questions (James Freeman)
24. 05:28 PM - VOR antenna option -- was New Guy Questions (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
25. 05:54 PM - Re: Fuel Lube (Paul Trotter)
26. 06:05 PM - Re:Vor Antenna Options (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
27. 06:05 PM - Minimum altitude to return to airport (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
28. 06:08 PM - Re: VOR antenna option -- was New Guy Questions (Jerry Grimmonpre)
29. 07:00 PM - Re: Minimum altitude to return to airport (Jerry Springer)
30. 07:00 PM - Re: Minimum altitude to return to airport (John Furey)
31. 09:56 PM - Re: Minimum altitude to return to airport (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
Hey Fred,
I sent you an email direct, but if you didn't get it, my friend has a set
of tips to sell. email me directly at rice737@msn.com and I'll get you in
touch with him.
Paul Rice
RV8 finish kit
----- Original Message -----
From: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 10:19 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wing Tips
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
>
> I'm looking for a set of wing tips for an RV-6 that don't have the
> landing lights in them.
> These would have been the standard parts supplied with a kit that might
> have been
> replaces with a different pair.
> Anyone have a set out there that they want to sell?
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Vans instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
Guess what? Just because it is a American manufacturer it doesn't mean it's
not made in China. I know for a fact that some of the major manufacturer's
have gyros made in china with their emblem on them because they are
assembled here.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans instruments
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 3/3/2006 4:52:16 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> greg@itmack.com writes:
>
> I've been searching the archives for references to Vans instruments such
> as
> the ASI and Alt. I vaguely recall people complaining they are cheap
> Chinese
> instruments and are difficult if not impossible to calibrate. Vans web
> site
> has them made by UMA which I presume is US manufacture. Anyone have any
> comments or experiences.
>
>
> =========================================
>
> I only have an UMA vacuum gauge and it is fine.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: New Guy questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
>From what a very experienced tweet told me you will have reception problems
with the antenna in one wing when the station is on the opposite side. Yes,
you will need two or an external one positioned in a better position.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <jbario@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 12:04 AM
Subject: RV-List: New Guy questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: <jbario@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Howdy to all. I have been reading the postings to this list for a few
> weeks and have learned a lot. My partner and I have been working on the
> tail feathers for a RV-8A since 2/1 and expect to finish in a week or so.
> We will then start on the QB wings which leads me to a few questions
>
> 1. I noticed in Vans Catalog an Airtech Wingtip Lens Kit. We looked at
> the Vans QB wing tip and lenses briefly this evening and (naively perhaps)
> it didn't appear to require an mod kit such as the Airtech. Any feedback?
>
> 2. Some people apparently using the Nav AV antenna in the wingtips. Are
> these antennas also useful for Localizer and Glide Slope signals? We
> assume one needs to install one of these antennas in each wingtip (total
> of 2). Any reports on their effectiveness vice externally mounted
> NAV/LOC/GS antennas? What is the best type of coax to use these days for
> a rookie airplane builder?
>
> Jim Barrilleaux
> Grass Valley, CA
> RV-8A tail feathers
> jbario@sbcglobal.net
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> =====================================
>
> This is essentially what I did, only I used O-ring equipped screws (from
> McMaster) for the cover fasteners (hence no need for washers and Proseal)
> and 8
> yrs later have had no leaks.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
Do you have a part number or Name of the O ring equipped screws? I tried
searching in McMaster and couldn't find them.
Thanks
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
Artificial Horizon: RCA26AK-4-14V
This is an all electric Attitude Gyro that is un-lighted and has an 8 panel
tilt. It was completely overhauled, by Kelly MFG. CO. 1/10/2006, and is
under warranty till 01/10/07. It employs an electrically driven gyro rotor
with built-in inverter. $1,100 or best offer.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
N123SG RV-8
Cappy's Toy
704-362-0005
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
Ed,
The McMaster part number is 90825A816 for an 8-32x1/2" o-ring screw. Please
note that these have silicon o-rings that must be replaced with viton
o-rings for fuel resistance.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 8:27 AM
Subject: O ring screw??Re: RV-List: Sealing Tank Access Covers
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> >
>> =====================================
>>
>> This is essentially what I did, only I used O-ring equipped screws (from
>> McMaster) for the cover fasteners (hence no need for washers and
>> Proseal)
>> and 8
>> yrs later have had no leaks.
>>
>> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>>
> Do you have a part number or Name of the O ring equipped screws? I tried
> searching in McMaster and couldn't find them.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Vans instruments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
I've got the Airspeed, Altimeter and Vertical Speed all from Van's. Only 35
hours so far but no complaints.
Steve Struyk
RV-8
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 11:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vans instruments
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 3/3/2006 4:52:16 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> greg@itmack.com writes:
>
> I've been searching the archives for references to Vans instruments such
> as
> the ASI and Alt. I vaguely recall people complaining they are cheap
> Chinese
> instruments and are difficult if not impossible to calibrate. Vans web
> site
> has them made by UMA which I presume is US manufacture. Anyone have any
> comments or experiences.
>
>
> =========================================
>
> I only have an UMA vacuum gauge and it is fine.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Ok, thanks, Paul. Understand I must replace the screw's O rings with viton
O rings.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Trotter" <ptrotter@acm.org>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 8:56 AM
Subject: Re: O ring screw??Re: RV-List: Sealing Tank Access Covers
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
>
> Ed,
>
> The McMaster part number is 90825A816 for an 8-32x1/2" o-ring screw.
> Please
> note that these have silicon o-rings that must be replaced with viton
> o-rings for fuel resistance.
>
> Paul
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 8:27 AM
> Subject: O ring screw??Re: RV-List: Sealing Tank Access Covers
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>
>> >
>>> =====================================
>>>
>>> This is essentially what I did, only I used O-ring equipped screws (from
>>> McMaster) for the cover fasteners (hence no need for washers and
>>> Proseal)
>>> and 8
>>> yrs later have had no leaks.
>>>
>>> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>>>
>> Do you have a part number or Name of the O ring equipped screws? I tried
>> searching in McMaster and couldn't find them.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Ed
>>
>> Ed Anderson
>> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>> Matthews, NC
>> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: FI and manual elevator trim |
--> RV-List message posted by: Alison and Neil <alisonandneil@direcway.com>
It works ok on mine, I did need a longer trim cable than what they sent me.
I think it's an RV-8 cable but they can tell you at Van's. The cable will
then be too long requiring some s-turns in the aft fuselage.
Neil McLeod
RV-7 N748M
Finally flying (or would be if I could get my ignition problem sorted out)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Corder" <mike.corder@micor-research.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 8:08 PM
Subject: RV-List: FI and manual elevator trim
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mike Corder
> <mike.corder@micor-research.com>
>
> I'm building an RV-7A with fuel injection and manual elevator trim. It
> looks to me like there's big time interference between these two right
> below the fuel selector plate. If anyone can point me to how they
> handled this, I'd appreciate it.
>
> --
>
> Regards,
> m
> ____________________________
>
> mike.corder@micor-research.com
> Cell 831-239-0915
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: New Guy questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
But you can't connect two antennae together. Don't even think about
trying it. That will not work unless you have some sort of switching
box to only have one antenna connected to the receiver at a time. If
two antennae are connected together, there will be phasing problems,
and you will have a very strange set of lobes in your antenna pattern.
If you use a wing tip antenna, you need to accept the fact that there
might be a very small area off the other wing tip where you might not
have reception. I have seen reports from several builders with wing
tip antenna who reported that they had good reception off the other
wing tip. I don't understand how that could be so, but I'll take
their reports at face value until I can flight test my wing tip antenna.
If you are navigating using VOR, or shooting an ILS approach, how
often is the station of interest off one wing tip? The only case I
can think of is if you want to fly a DME arc approach. I'll use my
IFR GPS to navigate the arc, and use the LOC once I've turned onto
final.
Kevin Horton
On 4 Mar 2006, at 08:17, wskimike wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
>
>> From what a very experienced tweet told me you will have reception
>> problems
> with the antenna in one wing when the station is on the opposite
> side. Yes,
> you will need two or an external one positioned in a better position.
>
> Mike
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <jbario@sbcglobal.net>
> To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 12:04 AM
> Subject: RV-List: New Guy questions
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: <jbario@sbcglobal.net>
>>
>> Howdy to all. I have been reading the postings to this list for a
>> few
>> weeks and have learned a lot. My partner and I have been working
>> on the
>> tail feathers for a RV-8A since 2/1 and expect to finish in a week
>> or so.
>> We will then start on the QB wings which leads me to a few questions
>>
>> 1. I noticed in Vans Catalog an Airtech Wingtip Lens Kit. We
>> looked at
>> the Vans QB wing tip and lenses briefly this evening and (naively
>> perhaps)
>> it didn't appear to require an mod kit such as the Airtech. Any
>> feedback?
>>
>> 2. Some people apparently using the Nav AV antenna in the
>> wingtips. Are
>> these antennas also useful for Localizer and Glide Slope signals? We
>> assume one needs to install one of these antennas in each wingtip
>> (total
>> of 2). Any reports on their effectiveness vice externally mounted
>> NAV/LOC/GS antennas? What is the best type of coax to use these
>> days for
>> a rookie airplane builder?
>>
>> Jim Barrilleaux
>>
>>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
Larry and RV Listers, fuel lube equivalent is availble from Aircraft Spruce
under the brand name EZ Turn. I purchased mine from an A&P years ago so I
couldn't tell you the brand of the original, but he swore by it and it has
not let me down. At one point during my testing process I had a small fuel
leak in the fitting going to the fuel flow transducer. Knowing the fitting
was already torqued to specs, I backed out the nut and put a very small
amount on the flared tubing, re-torqued the nut to specs and no leaks since.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, ny
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Good advice from Alex. I think the Harbor Freight borescopes use acrylic
fibers. I may be wrong about that, but it is common on inexpensive scopes
like this. I would at least examine the medical device idea. Take a look
at ebay for endoscope and you should see both rigid and flex scopes. A
medical scope will give you the best optical performance by far, but the
illuminator is a separate component and is an additional expense. It also
is less portable and more complicated to use.
The flexible endoscopes are great. The end articulates through 180 degrees,
controlled by the handpiece, so you can see the entire area you are
interested in, and the insertion tube is often four feet long. It's common
for the sheath, the rubber part of the insertion tube to become damaged.
This must be repaired before it can be used on a patient but would have no
effect on the use you entend. Often the medical facility will decide to
dispose of the scope instead of repairing it, and they end up on ebay. You
also find scopes that have broken fibers which causes dark spots in the
field of view. This is common and a brand new scope will often have a few.
The repair of this is $4000 or so depending on the scope if it gets bad
enough and you can often find a perfect scope that has been disposed of
because this. If you go this route, don't purchase a scope with a cloudy
field of view. There is no repair possible without completely disassembling
the scope and usually replacing parts. I use a rigid scope which has
limitation on what you can see, but has the advantage of fitting through 1/8
inch hole. A flex scope will require more like a 1/2 inch access hole.
Good luck!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 4:55 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: borescopes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
>>
>> Anyone have recommendations for borescopes? I'm looking at
>> the following ones for possible addition to the Home Wing /
>> EAA105 tool crib.
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91564
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46703
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46506
>>
>> Randall Henderson
>> RV-6
>
> Randall, I would try to find out the number of fibers (pixels) that each
> has, or at the very least, have a look through one if they stock them at
> their stores. Good scopes of this sort are almost 10x that price. I plan
> to buy a used endoscope from a surplus medical equipment supplier here in
> town. I believe that I can get a flexible one with a light source for
> around $200 or less. The brightness of the light is more important than
> it
> might seem.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A N66AP 721 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
>
>
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
Great advise, i would want to add that if u get a rigid one, get one
with an agled view, rather that straight, this will alllow u to rotate
the borescope and get some means of circumferential view rather than
only straight ahead.
mine has a 30 degree angle at the tip.
Also, as illuminator i bought a single LED flashlight for a few bucks,
took the lens out and made a plastic spacer to fit between the nipple on
the scoop and the inside of the flash light. seems to work quite okay so
far. not as bright as a real illuminator light source, but, a heck of a
lot more transportable.
David Burton wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
>Good advice from Alex. I think the Harbor Freight borescopes use acrylic
>fibers. I may be wrong about that, but it is common on inexpensive scopes
>like this. I would at least examine the medical device idea. Take a look
>at ebay for endoscope and you should see both rigid and flex scopes. A
>medical scope will give you the best optical performance by far, but the
>illuminator is a separate component and is an additional expense. It also
>is less portable and more complicated to use.
>The flexible endoscopes are great. The end articulates through 180 degrees,
>controlled by the handpiece, so you can see the entire area you are
>interested in, and the insertion tube is often four feet long. It's common
>for the sheath, the rubber part of the insertion tube to become damaged.
>This must be repaired before it can be used on a patient but would have no
>effect on the use you entend. Often the medical facility will decide to
>dispose of the scope instead of repairing it, and they end up on ebay. You
>also find scopes that have broken fibers which causes dark spots in the
>field of view. This is common and a brand new scope will often have a few.
>The repair of this is $4000 or so depending on the scope if it gets bad
>enough and you can often find a perfect scope that has been disposed of
>because this. If you go this route, don't purchase a scope with a cloudy
>field of view. There is no repair possible without completely disassembling
>the scope and usually replacing parts. I use a rigid scope which has
>limitation on what you can see, but has the advantage of fitting through 1/8
>inch hole. A flex scope will require more like a 1/2 inch access hole.
>
>Good luck!
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 4:55 PM
>Subject: RE: RV-List: borescopes
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
>><alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
>>>
>>>Anyone have recommendations for borescopes? I'm looking at
>>>the following ones for possible addition to the Home Wing /
>>>EAA105 tool crib.
>>>
>>>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=91564
>>>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46703
>>>http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46506
>>>
>>>Randall Henderson
>>>RV-6
>>>
>>>
>>Randall, I would try to find out the number of fibers (pixels) that each
>>has, or at the very least, have a look through one if they stock them at
>>their stores. Good scopes of this sort are almost 10x that price. I plan
>>to buy a used endoscope from a surplus medical equipment supplier here in
>>town. I believe that I can get a flexible one with a light source for
>>around $200 or less. The brightness of the light is more important than
>>it
>>might seem.
>>
>>Alex Peterson
>>RV6-A N66AP 721 hours
>>Maple Grove, MN
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
When installing the sender (Warner float-type), has everybody used the
rubber gasket? I pro-sealed mine (no leaks) but If I need to remove the
sender to remove the access plate I am wondering if to just use the rubber
gaskets or pro-seal 'em again. Thanks for any feedback.
Doug Fischer
RV-9A Jenison, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: <rv6n6r@comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, March 03, 2006 5:39 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sealing Tank Access Covers
> --> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
>
> Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
>> Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
>> along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws
>> with the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST
>> OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS
>> COVERS????
>
> I have the disadvantage of not having read any of the posts but perhaps my
> direct experience with taking the prosealed covers off will make up for
> that...? ;-)
>
> I think there's a lot bigger deal made about this by people who think it
> will be difficult than by people who have actually done it. I have and its
> no big deal. A sharp putty knife with rounded off corners will make quick
> work of it. Then scrape off as much as you can of the resedue and clean
> the last little bit with acetone, mek or naptha.
>
> The recent post by the guy who used the "cork-and-fuel lube" method was
> the first one of those I've heard of that was successful. Nearly everyone
> I know who tried that (and there have been quite a few over the years)
> ended up with leaks around the gasket. In fact when I first sealed up my
> tanks I did it that way, but redid it with proseal before final assembly
> after seeing and hearing so many stories about it.
>
> Once and for all -- it's NOT a big deal to get the prosealed plates off.
> Any other method is inviting leaks around the plates, which is more of a
> pain than what you're trying to avoid.
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
> Dean Psiropoulos wrote:
> Why not use the cork (or some synthetic rubber that's gasoline resistant)
> along with some appropriate gasket sealer AND the access plate screws
> with the O-rings in order to.....ELIMINATE THE HEADACHES MOST
> OF YOU ARE GOING THROUGH WITH PRO-SEALED ACCESS
> COVERS????
>
> I have the disadvantage of not having read any of the posts but perhaps my
> direct experience with taking the prosealed covers off will make up for
> that...? ;-)
>
> I think there's a lot bigger deal made about this by people who think it
> will be difficult than by people who have actually done it. I have and its
> no big deal. A sharp putty knife with rounded off corners will make quick
> work of it. Then scrape off as much as you can of the resedue and clean
> the last little bit with acetone, mek or naptha.
>
> The recent post by the guy who used the "cork-and-fuel lube" method was
> the first one of those I've heard of that was successful. Nearly everyone
> I know who tried that (and there have been quite a few over the years)
> ended up with leaks around the gasket. In fact when I first sealed up my
> tanks I did it that way, but redid it with proseal before final assembly
> after seeing and hearing so many stories about it.
>
> Once and for all -- it's NOT a big deal to get the prosealed plates off.
> Any other method is inviting leaks around the plates, which is more of a
> pain than what you're trying to avoid.
>
> Randall Henderson
> RV-6
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/4/2006 5:31:25 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
eanderson@carolina.rr.com writes:
Do you have a part number or Name of the O ring equipped screws? I tried
searching in McMaster and couldn't find them.
=======================================
Ed-
Sorry, my memory fails me (I suffer from CRS). I was into it when I was
building and much of it seems a mystery to me years later.
The sealing screws I got were apparently not from McMaster. I likely bought
them from some other source (maybe MS Inserts, Olander or Norcal) as they
were definitely 8-32 X .500" Phillips Pan Head cross-recess in 400 Stainless
and had Viton O-Rings.
The ones I got were Long-Lok brand and they are called Self-Seal Screws.
This is the most reliable way to go IMO, as these fasteners were made for this
application. I conjugated a P/N of SS1832VLP8 from the .pdf of the spec
sheet at
_http://longlok.com/products_selfseal.htm_
(http://longlok.com/products_selfseal.htm)
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Torx head screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
The advantages of Torx head screws are two-fold: They have six positions
instead of four for indexing the drive bit (better for assembly line
manufacturing), and the biggest: the Torx head does not require a forward
pressure on the driver to maintain bit engagement like a Phillips or a
Pozi-drive. This helps prevent tearing up the screw head during
installation / removal (especially screws that have been installed for a
while).
Doug Fischer
RV-9A Jenison, MI
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 10:49 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Torx head screws?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> I started with many torx head screws for the same reason everyone else
> did,
> but I'm actually migrating back to SS phillips head screws. They are as
> durable as the torx screws. I'm never sure exactly where my torx bits are
> -- but I know I have a three dozen #2 phillips screwdrivers scattered
> around. I still like and use hex cap screws where they make sense, but
> for
> flush applications I no longer see an advantage using the torx screws.
> They
> just add complexity. Just my opinion...
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Fiveonepw@aol.com [mailto:Fiveonepw@aol.com]
>> Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 10:19 PM
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Torx head screws?
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>>
>> Hi Kevin- when are ya gonna git that darn RV FINISHED?!
>>
>> My parents bestowed upon me the name Mark ALLEN PHILLIPS, and
>> if there is ANY reason to NOT use phillips head fasteners, I
>> will be first to stand up and say NAY! There is a BETTER
>> WAY! Do the torx thing- Microfasteners has lots of my $$$
>> and I am pleased to report it was $$$ well spint- these
>> things are like that stupid little purple bunny- they keep
>> going..............
>>
>> When I was working on my wheel pants (for example) I had the
>> stupid things on/off/on/off/on/off (you know the drill) a
>> rediculous amount of times- had I been using phillips instead
>> of torx, I would have most likely replaced the screws after
>> every 3 or 4 applications- with the torx, I used the original
>> ones every time until after finish paint when new ones were
>> installed. Best part is that they will hang onto the bit
>> without magic magnetism, and will not wear out. One thing to
>> be wary of is that the bit will break off in the screw before
>> the screw will strip (built-in torque limits!) which you
>> DON'T want to happen- did this to one of my tank screws and
>> it was a MAJOR bitch to extract! I use a simple, cheap
>> cordless B&D screwdriver with the torque limit set to
>> appropriate limits- works great!
>>
>> Oh yeah- there are maybe 8 phillips screws on my plane, only
>> because they were all I could find for the application- there
>> are MANY Allen screws- like the stainless ones on my tank
>> access plates.................... 8-)
>>
>> >From The PossumWorks in TN
>> Mark ALLEN PHILLIPS, RV-6A N51PW, 280 hours:
>> http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Photoshare, and much much more:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: New Guy questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
wskimike wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
>
>>From what a very experienced tweet told me you will have reception problems
> with the antenna in one wing when the station is on the opposite side. Yes,
> you will need two or an external one positioned in a better position.
My experience with the Sportcraft internal NAV antenna is that is works
very nicely, regardless of the plane's position in regard to the VOR. It
also works well with a glideslope receiver.
Bob Archer, the designer of the antenna, is emphatic on NOT using two
NAV antennae. Apparently all sorts of out-of-phase issues arise if two
antennae are feeding the same receiver.
Details on my installation:
http://thervjournal.com/sportcraft.htm
An article by Bob about his antennae:
http://www.tvrvbg.org/Tip6a.doc
Sam Buchanan
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Torx head screws? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> the Torx head does not require a forward pressure on the driver to maintain
> bit engagement like a Phillips or a Pozi-drive.
The Pozi drive was specifically designed not to require axial force to maintain
engagement. That is the principle difference between Pozi and Phillips, and is
reason I recommended Pozi as a good alternative to Torx.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Air Compressor Repair Help |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JIM" <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Ted,
Your friend is exactly right. Without doing a load test or other
diagnostics, plain and simple they use very cheap motors in the "off-shore"
products Harbor Freight sells, especially the motors. For about $100-$200
you can get a well suited Dayton motor from Graingers. Bottom line...you
get what you pay for!
Jim Duckett, N708JD - RV-7A
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Lumpkin" <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 12:24 AM
Subject: RV-List: Air Compressor Repair Help
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
>
> I purchased a 5hp, 26 gallon air compressor from Harbor Freight. It
> worked well for a year, but now will barely turnover and will not develop
> full rpm and, therefore, will not compress air. A friend of mine tells
> me the compressor is trying to start using "run" current. I've checked
> the circuit breaker and the centrifugal clutch switch that triggers the
> start vs. run circuit. They both check out fine. The oil level is
> correct and the compressor cylinder appears fine. I have removed the
> start capacitor, but haven't had any luck finding a replacement.
>
> Three questions:
>
> Has anyone else solved a similar problem and, if so, how?
>
> Does anyone know where I can get an air compressor start capacitor?
>
> If I have to change the entire motor, is there a cheap (cheaper than
> buying another compressor) place to buy one?
>
> Thanks in advance for your help.
>
> Ted
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: New Guy questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
jbario(at)sbcglobal.net wrote:
> ...Some people apparently using the Nav AV antenna in the wingtips. Are these
antennas also useful for Localizer and Glide Slope signals? We assume one needs
to install one of these antennas in each wingtip (total of 2). Any reports
on their effectiveness vice externally mounted NAV/LOC/GS antennas? What is
the best type of coax to use these days for a rookie airplane builder?
>
> Jim Barrilleaux
> Grass Valley, CA
> RV-8A tail feathers
> jbario@sbcglobal.net
Jim,
Your choices in antennas may depend upon your intended mission profile and installed
avionics capability.
As a data point , my RV is equipped with a Garmin 430 suite and fitted with a Bob
Archer NAV/LOC/GS antenna in the left wingtip and the MB antenna (a tuned length
of copper foil) in the right wing tip. I have not had any reception problems
to date though I've never purposely positioned the aircraft in flight so
the NAV antenna is completely blocked by the opposite wingtip (LOS) to the station
in a purposeful effort to observe (potential) signal degradation. If such
a loss did occur and I still found it desirable to navigate based upon that
particular VOR, (why?) I suppose I "could" deselect the VOR (via a button on
the 430) and select the GPS function and continue to navigate via the installed
GI-106A CDI in much the same way. Of course that would require programming
in the coordinates of the VOR station as a GPS waypoint. Such flying is possible
but a bit too sophisticated for this VFR pilot. Also in my neck of the woods,
VOR signal acquisition does not occur on the ground but comes alive just
a few hundred feet AGL....mere seconds of time in an RV. If your anticipated
mission requirements demand the very best NAV reception possible, many would argue
that externally mounted antennas would probably be a better choice. For
my purposes which is overwhelmingly VFR flight with occasional IFR training,
the hidden wingtip mounted antennas suit me just fine. One more thing....despite
occasional reports that some builders experience signal problems, I located
the Comant bent whip Comm antenna almost perfectly centered and in line with
the gear legs and have yet to experience any problems. I installed standard
RG-58A/U coax cable throughout. More expensive coax cable is available
and only you can determine if it is worth the extra cost or not.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 112 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=19569#19569
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840@comcast.net>
Should EZ Turn be used on the face of the tubing flare where it contacts the
fitting? I have previously been told it should only be used on threads.
Ken Howell
Glenwood Maryland
RV7 Wings
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Francis Malczynski
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 10:46 AM
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Lube
--> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
Larry and RV Listers, fuel lube equivalent is availble from Aircraft Spruce
under the brand name EZ Turn. I purchased mine from an A&P years ago so I
couldn't tell you the brand of the original, but he swore by it and it has
not let me down. At one point during my testing process I had a small fuel
leak in the fitting going to the fuel flow transducer. Knowing the fitting
was already torqued to specs, I backed out the nut and put a very small
amount on the flared tubing, re-torqued the nut to specs and no leaks since.
Fran Malczynski
RV6 - N594EF
Olcott, ny
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing Tank Access Covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 11:52 AM
Subject: Re: O ring screw??Re: RV-List: Sealing Tank Access Covers
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 3/4/2006 5:31:25 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com writes:
>
> Do you have a part number or Name of the O ring equipped screws? I tried
> searching in McMaster and couldn't find them.
>
>
> =======================================
>
> Ed-
>
> Sorry, my memory fails me (I suffer from CRS). I was into it when I was
> building and much of it seems a mystery to me years later.
>
> The sealing screws I got were apparently not from McMaster. I likely
> bought
> them from some other source (maybe MS Inserts, Olander or Norcal) as they
> were definitely 8-32 X .500" Phillips Pan Head cross-recess in 400
> Stainless
> and had Viton O-Rings.
>
> The ones I got were Long-Lok brand and they are called Self-Seal Screws.
> This is the most reliable way to go IMO, as these fasteners were made for
> this
> application. I conjugated a P/N of SS1832VLP8 from the .pdf of the spec
> sheet at
>
> _http://longlok.com/products_selfseal.htm_
> (http://longlok.com/products_selfseal.htm)
>
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 774hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
Thanks, appreciate the information.
Ed
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: New Guy questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
Another data point: My sportcraft antenna in the right (only)
wingtip works well, regardless of heading to station.
On my Garmin (nee Apollo) SL-30 NavCom you just need to run one
coax from the antenna to the radio, there is an internal splitter for
the Nav/glideslope signals.
The AirTech kit is for the older type wingtips, and is not necessary
for the newer "sheared" tips that are currently shipping.
James Freeman
RV-8 flying
http://web.mac.com/flyeyes/iWeb/
On Mar 4, 2006, at 11:15 AM, Sam Buchanan wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> wskimike wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
>>
>>> From what a very experienced tweet told me you will have
>>> reception problems
>> with the antenna in one wing when the station is on the opposite
>> side. Yes,
>> you will need two or an external one positioned in a better position.
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | VOR antenna option -- was New Guy Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
I have had excellent results with a homemade VOR antenna fastened to my
canopy (on the inside!) with small suction cups. These are available for hanging
doodads on windows, etc. Actually, I started with black electrical tape,
but the suction cups look more -- er -- professional. I used an MFJ-259B
Antenna Analyzer to trim the dipole for lowest SWR in the middle of the VOR band,
and the wires measure 22 inches on each side. My plane is an RV-7A slider
and the feed line comes up the baggage bulkhead and forward with a loop to
allow the canopy to travel. The antenna wires are just number 22 white insulated
aircraft wire which go outboard and then forward using 2 suction cups on
each side for support. This puts the antenna mostly above the baggage
compartment, with the ends just above and behind the pilot's and co-pilot's head.
It
may look a little dorky, but the performance is excellent and it costs
practically nothing. I intend to put some ferrite chokes at the feed point to
make
it perfectly horizontally polarized, but it works fine with just the center
conductor of the RG-58 going to one side and the ground going to the other
side. It was originally intended to be temporary, but has become somewhat
permanent. Please don't laugh!
Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying since July 2004 -- 144 hours
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
Ken,
Do not put anything on face of the tubing, it should be clean and smooth.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840@comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 5:51 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel Lube
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840@comcast.net>
>
> Should EZ Turn be used on the face of the tubing flare where it contacts
> the
> fitting? I have previously been told it should only be used on threads.
>
> Ken Howell
> Glenwood Maryland
> RV7 Wings
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re:Vor Antenna Options |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
In our RV-4 which was finished in 1983 I used 1/4" copper tape along the
lower rear edge of the canopy for the VOR antenna. The length was 22" each
side with the RG-58 connected as described , then potted in place with a dab of
epoxy. It worked as well as a "Vee" VOR antenna.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 27
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| Subject: | Minimum altitude to return to airport |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
OK. Remember a couple of weeks or so ago the discussion we had on the 'net about
the min altitude/airspeed to return to the runway?
OK. Today during my RV transition training with Jan Bussell, he showed my why
his turn from runway heading to crosswind typically begins when he's 400' AGL.
During a typical 120 mph climbout after a touch and go, at 400' he cut the throttle,
banked exactly 60 degrees and turned back to the runway carefully ensuring
the airspeed never got below 80 mph. It turned on a dime and by the time
we leveled out we'd lost maybe 100' at most. We easily made the runway with
lots of options for flaps and slips if we had a short runway and needed to land
on the numbers.
He agreed adding this type of testing at altitude for each plane was a great idea
and really like the Barry Schieff video demo of this.
So anyway, here's a real world datapoint. I highly recommend Jan. http://www.safeair1.com/RVTT/JB_Aframe.htm
He's got a great, relaxed way of explaining RV techniques and I can't imagine a
first flight without the type of instruction he gives. Pretty thorough EAA transition
training syllabus he uses.
Lucky
OK. Remember a couple of weeks or so ago the discussion we had on the 'net about
the min altitude/airspeed to return to the runway?
OK. Today during my RV transition training with Jan Bussell, he showed my why his
turn from runway heading to crosswind typicallybegins when he's 400' AGL. During
a typical 120 mph climboutafter a touch and go, at 400' he cut the throttle,
banked exactly 60 degrees and turned back to the runway carefully ensuring
the airspeed never got below 80 mph. It turned on a dime and by the time we
leveled out we'd lost maybe 100' at most. We easily made the runway with lots
of options for flaps and slips if we had a short runway and needed to land on
the numbers.
He agreed adding this type of testing at altitude for each plane was a great idea
and really like the Barry Schieff video demo of this.
So anyway, here'sa real world datapoint. I highly recommend Jan. http://www.safeair1.com/RVTT/JB_Aframe.htm
He's got a great, relaxed way of explaining RV techniques and I can't imagine a
first flight without the type of instruction he gives.Pretty thorough EAA transition
training syllabus he uses.
Lucky
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: VOR antenna option -- was New Guy Questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
Dan ....
I'm not laughing ... fact is I'd like to have one like this too. Can you
send a picture? I know nothing about ferrite chokes and all that stuff but
can learn. Thanks for sharing.
Jerry Grimmonpre'
RV8A Huntley IL
Do NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 04, 2006 7:25 PM
Subject: RV-List: VOR antenna option -- was New Guy Questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> I have had excellent results with a homemade VOR antenna fastened to my
> canopy (on the inside!) with small suction cups. These are available for
> hanging
> doodads on windows, etc. Actually, I started with black electrical tape,
> but the suction cups look more -- er -- professional. I used an MFJ-259B
> Antenna Analyzer to trim the dipole for lowest SWR in the middle of the
> VOR band,
> and the wires measure 22 inches on each side. My plane is an RV-7A
> slider
> and the feed line comes up the baggage bulkhead and forward with a loop
> to
> allow the canopy to travel. The antenna wires are just number 22 white
> insulated
> aircraft wire which go outboard and then forward using 2 suction cups on
> each side for support. This puts the antenna mostly above the baggage
> compartment, with the ends just above and behind the pilot's and
> co-pilot's head. It
> may look a little dorky, but the performance is excellent and it costs
> practically nothing. I intend to put some ferrite chokes at the feed
> point to make
> it perfectly horizontally polarized, but it works fine with just the
> center
> conductor of the RG-58 going to one side and the ground going to the
> other
> side. It was originally intended to be temporary, but has become
> somewhat
> permanent. Please don't laugh!
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A Flying since July 2004 -- 144 hours
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Minimum altitude to return to airport |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
lucky wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
>OK. Remember a couple of weeks or so ago the discussion we had on the 'net about
the min altitude/airspeed to return to the runway?
>OK. Today during my RV transition training with Jan Bussell, he showed my why
his turn from runway heading to crosswind typically begins when he's 400' AGL.
During a typical 120 mph climbout after a touch and go, at 400' he cut the
throttle, banked exactly 60 degrees and turned back to the runway carefully ensuring
the airspeed never got below 80 mph. It turned on a dime and by the time
we leveled out we'd lost maybe 100' at most. We easily made the runway with
lots of options for flaps and slips if we had a short runway and needed to land
on the numbers.
>
>He agreed adding this type of testing at altitude for each plane was a great idea
and really like the Barry Schieff video demo of this.
>
>So anyway, here's a real world datapoint. I highly recommend Jan. http://www.safeair1.com/RVTT/JB_Aframe.htm
>He's got a great, relaxed way of explaining RV techniques and I can't imagine
a first flight without the type of instruction he gives. Pretty thorough EAA transition
training syllabus he uses.
>
>Lucky
>
>
>He agreed adding this type of testing at altitude for each plane was a great idea
and really like the Barry Schieff video demo of this.
>
>
>So anyway, here'sa real world datapoint. I highly recommend Jan. http://www.safeair1.com/RVTT/JB_Aframe.htm
>
>
>He's got a great, relaxed way of explaining RV techniques and I can't imagine
a first flight without the type of instruction he gives.Pretty thorough EAA transition
training syllabus he uses.
>
>
>Lucky
>
>
>
>
Sounds great on paper and is great that you can do it while expecting it
to happen. The down side to that theory is that at many controlled
airports you cannot
just start turning xwind 400 ft because of conflict with other
controlled traffic. At many airport you cannot start a turn at 400 ft
because of noise abatement procedures.
I have had the experience as others here have had and it WILL take you a
few seconds to grasp what the problem is and how to solve it. At 400 ft
you are losing
valuable time and airspeed. I can whip my RV-6 around on a dime too if I
am planning on it.
Not telling anyone to try it or not try it just giving an opinion that
is a valuable as what you pay for it. :)
Jerry
do not archive
Message 30
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| Subject: | Minimum altitude to return to airport |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Please be very careful. As an instructor for a specific make of aircraft we
taught the "turn back" maneuver for many years. Essentially the same thing
you did only it took about 1000'agl and 60~70 degrees of bank. It was pretty
neat as long as it was done perfectly but it can get REAL ugly.
Unfortunately an experienced instructor and his client died a couple of
years ago, they had performed it successfully several times earlier that
day. It was immediately removed from the training curriculum, the grief and
the law suits are still ongoing.
John
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Minimum altitude to return to airport |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Exactly. I did some of testing on this during flight testing, and
practice it once in a while. My drill is to chop throttle, wait four
seconds with hands in lap, then take action. I think this is a
realistic figure for the brain lag. I came up with 400 feet as the
minimum altitude to even think about a 180. YMMV, but try it for
yourself, and practice.
Jeff Point
RV6
Milwaukee
Jerry Springer wrote:
>few seconds to grasp what the problem is and how to solve it. At 400 ft
>you are losing
>valuable time and airspeed. I can whip my RV-6 around on a dime too if I
>am planning on it.
>
>
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