Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:26 AM - Fuel Tank SB Experience (Steve Glasgow)
2. 06:40 AM - Re: Fuel Tank SB Experience (bertrv6@highstream.net)
3. 06:46 AM - Re: Question for Canadians concerning inspections (Kevin Horton)
4. 07:23 AM - Re: Question for Canadians concerning inspections (Tedd McHenry)
5. 08:09 AM - Re: Weekly newsletter idea (Bob C.)
6. 08:43 AM - Re: Question for Canadians concerning inspections (Carl Kristensen)
7. 08:55 AM - Re: Weekly newsletter idea (Dan)
8. 10:30 AM - Re: Fuel Tank SB Experience (LarryRobertHelming)
9. 12:14 PM - Re: Fuel Tank SB Experience (D.Bristol)
10. 01:04 PM - Re: Fuel Tank SB Experience (JOHN STARN)
11. 02:33 PM - Re: Titeseal was Re: Sealing tank inspection covers (Richard Dudley)
12. 02:49 PM - Re: Titeseal (Ed Anderson)
13. 02:59 PM - Re: Fuel Tank SB Experience (Richard Dudley)
14. 04:25 PM - Re: Titeseal was Re: Sealing tank inspection covers (Ken Howell)
15. 04:57 PM - Re: Tank SB attach screws (David Wentzell)
16. 06:12 PM - Re: Tank SB attach screws (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
17. 06:33 PM - Re: Titeseal was Re: Sealing tank inspection covers (Ed Anderson)
18. 06:38 PM - Re: Kx-125 Instulation Manual (William Gill)
19. 07:43 PM - Re: Tank SB attach screws (Randy Lervold)
20. 08:19 PM - Re: Tank SB attach screws (JOHN STARN)
21. 10:24 PM - You think YOU'RE building an airplane .... [TAD OFF TOPIC] (Gerry Filby)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank SB Experience |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
My experience doing the Fuel Tank SB.
The fuel tank SD is a bitch, but doable without removing the tank. All
total, 10-12 man hours to do the left tank. Experience will help when I do
the right tank. Start by getting all the parts you need from Van's. Cork
gaskets for the big hole, rubber gaskets for the fuel sender, 2 small jars
or peo-seal (really nice and just enough) and whatever screws you want to
use. Ground the plane.
I started by siphoning as much 100LL out as I could, then I un-screwed the
drain valve and drained the remainder into a fuel can. Next, I vented the
tank by holding a vacuum set to blow in the fuel cap hole for about 5
minutes.
After the tank was vented, I started to remove the old pro-seal before I
even tried to open the tank this kept the trash out as much as possible. I
had used way to much pro-seal the first time, so I had a pain removing it.
I
found a 1/2 and 1/4 wood chisel worked the best. Also a razor blade helped
with the heavy stuff. You will find it is easier to work from under the
plane. After getting as much off as possible I started with the drimel with
a wire brush and cleaned all the rest off I could. Next,I took the wire
to the fuel sending unit off and took out the 5 screws that hold the fuel
sender and removed it with no problem. Again I vented the tank.
Next, you want to remove the fuel line and tape it. It needs to be removed
at the fuel valve and the tank and pushed into the plane so as to give you
more room to work in the crack.
Next I taped the fuel sender hole and started on the access cover screws. I
should have spent more time with the drimel and taken a pick to the heads of
the screws because I stripped two screws that were loaded with pro-seal. Oh
well live and learn.
The next day Tonto came to the rescue (Dale Ensing) and we were able to
remove the stripped screws with his needle nose vice grip pliers. Thanks
Dale! On re-installation we decided to use the original screws (8-32)
because the heads were bigger than the hex head screws I had bought. The
feeling was if the smaller heads were stripped we might not be able to
remove them with needle nose vice grip pliers.
After the screws were out we managed to release the plate with a heavy duty
sharpened putty knife and hammer. Carefully moving around the plate a
little at a time. Dale cleaned the hole in the wing with MKE while I used
the wire brush on the electric motor to clean the covers. Yes MEK softens
the goo and will clean it off. Lots of rubbing required but it works.
The B nut was tight and before we took it off we marked where we wanted to
drill. We drilled the hole in the B nut with Dale's little jig and shafted
it with 0.32 wire and decided to cant the pick up tube about 1 1/2 inches
outboard to make for an easier instillation of the cover plate.
Don't forget to clean any trash out of the tank. We used the vacuum with a
small hose fitted to the vacuum hose and a mirror.
Now it became a two man job. We buttered the cover plate with pro-seal laid
the gasket in the goo and buttered it again, we added 3 screws to hold the
gasket in place while we both installed it together. One man above the wing
carefully hands the unit to the guy below the wing through the crack.
Really a two man job here to get it in
place without dislodging all the goo and making a bigger mess. We actually
practiced the hand off several times before we put the goo on.
Don't forget to liberally tape the edge of the wing on the top and the
bottom to prevent getting goo on your paint. We dipped each screw into the
goo and screwed the cover plate down, installed the fuel pick up with the
rubber gasket, no goo on the gasket this time, just the screws.
Re-install the fuel line, let it cure for at least 4 days, add fuel and say
a prayer that it doesn't leak!!!!!!!
I will do the right tank after Sun and Fun.
Steve Glasgow-Cappy
RV-8 N123SG, 290 Hours
Cappy's Toy
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank SB Experience |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting Steve Glasgow <willfly@carolina.rr.com>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
> My experience doing the Fuel Tank SB.
>
> The fuel tank SD is a bitch, but doable without removing the tank. All
> total, 10-12 man hours to do the left tank. Experience will help when I do
> the right tank. Start by getting all the parts you need from Van's. Cork
> gaskets for the big hole, rubber gaskets for the fuel sender, 2 small jars
> or peo-seal (really nice and just enough) and whatever screws you want to
> use. Ground the plane.
>
> I started by siphoning as much 100LL out as I could, then I un-screwed the
> drain valve and drained the remainder into a fuel can. Next, I vented the
> tank by holding a vacuum set to blow in the fuel cap hole for about 5
> minutes.
>
> After the tank was vented, I started to remove the old pro-seal before I
> even tried to open the tank this kept the trash out as much as possible. I
> had used way to much pro-seal the first time, so I had a pain removing it.
> I
> found a 1/2 and 1/4 wood chisel worked the best. Also a razor blade helped
> with the heavy stuff. You will find it is easier to work from under the
> plane. After getting as much off as possible I started with the drimel with
> a wire brush and cleaned all the rest off I could. Next,I took the wire
> to the fuel sending unit off and took out the 5 screws that hold the fuel
> sender and removed it with no problem. Again I vented the tank.
>
> Next, you want to remove the fuel line and tape it. It needs to be removed
> at the fuel valve and the tank and pushed into the plane so as to give you
> more room to work in the crack.
>
> Next I taped the fuel sender hole and started on the access cover screws. I
> should have spent more time with the drimel and taken a pick to the heads of
> the screws because I stripped two screws that were loaded with pro-seal. Oh
> well live and learn.
>
> The next day Tonto came to the rescue (Dale Ensing) and we were able to
> remove the stripped screws with his needle nose vice grip pliers. Thanks
> Dale! On re-installation we decided to use the original screws (8-32)
> because the heads were bigger than the hex head screws I had bought. The
> feeling was if the smaller heads were stripped we might not be able to
> remove them with needle nose vice grip pliers.
>
> After the screws were out we managed to release the plate with a heavy duty
> sharpened putty knife and hammer. Carefully moving around the plate a
> little at a time. Dale cleaned the hole in the wing with MKE while I used
> the wire brush on the electric motor to clean the covers. Yes MEK softens
> the goo and will clean it off. Lots of rubbing required but it works.
>
> The B nut was tight and before we took it off we marked where we wanted to
> drill. We drilled the hole in the B nut with Dale's little jig and shafted
> it with 0.32 wire and decided to cant the pick up tube about 1 1/2 inches
> outboard to make for an easier instillation of the cover plate.
>
> Don't forget to clean any trash out of the tank. We used the vacuum with a
> small hose fitted to the vacuum hose and a mirror.
>
> Now it became a two man job. We buttered the cover plate with pro-seal laid
> the gasket in the goo and buttered it again, we added 3 screws to hold the
> gasket in place while we both installed it together. One man above the wing
> carefully hands the unit to the guy below the wing through the crack.
> Really a two man job here to get it in
> place without dislodging all the goo and making a bigger mess. We actually
> practiced the hand off several times before we put the goo on.
>
> Don't forget to liberally tape the edge of the wing on the top and the
> bottom to prevent getting goo on your paint. We dipped each screw into the
> goo and screwed the cover plate down, installed the fuel pick up with the
> rubber gasket, no goo on the gasket this time, just the screws.
>
> Re-install the fuel line, let it cure for at least 4 days, add fuel and say
> a prayer that it doesn't leak!!!!!!!
>
> I will do the right tank after Sun and Fun.
>
> Steve Glasgow-Cappy
> RV-8 N123SG, 290 Hours
> Cappy's Toy
>
> Steve:
I have used Tite-Seal, instead of the Proseal...it has worked well..
Bert
Rv6a
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Question for Canadians concerning inspections |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 11 Mar 2006, at 21:09, Carl Kristensen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Carl Kristensen"
> <carlkristensen@rogers.com>
>
> My question is for anyone who may have experience with the Canadian
> MD-RA
> inspection system. I am told that I must leave components open for
> inspection but no one is able to tell me exactly what that means.
> Does it
> mean leaving a corner open with a few rivets out, or the entire
> side off?
> The person manning MD-RA office is unable to answer this, and the
> inspector
> in my area refuses to speak to builders.
>
The inspector needs to be able to inspect the inside of any part of
the structure. I discussed this with the guy who was doing the
inspections in Ottawa before I got too far into the project. He
suggested that I leave corners of the HS and VS skin on one side
unriveted so he could peel them back a bit and look inside with an
inspection mirror and a flashlight. I think I left about 10 rivets
at the ends of the spars, and a similar number along the root and tip
ribs. For the elevator and rudder, he wanted to be able to look the
riveting on the stiffeners, so I only riveted one side of the skin to
the spar and ribs.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Question for Canadians concerning inspections |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> I am told that I must leave components open for inspection but no one is able
> to tell me exactly what that means.
My experience was similar to Kevin Horton's. I think it's a really good idea
to work out the details with your individual MD-RA rep before you get very far
with the project, as each one may interpret the requirement slightly
differently.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC, Canada
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Weekly newsletter idea |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
Bob,
I too like the idea . . . and have subscribed.
Bob in SE Iowa
RV-8 Finishing Slowly!
On 3/11/06, Bob Collins <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>
> Nobody's forcing anybody to do anything, Dan. And it's not meant to
> detract
> from anyone's site and as good as VAF is, not everything is there,
> especially with folks trying all sorts of new things and technologies.
>
> It's meant to be what it says it is...a QUICK read of highlights.
> Hopefully
> it'll be clean and efficient, help everyone find even more information on
> ALL of the various places it may exist.
>
> If folks don't find it useful, no harm no foul. They'll never see it nor
> be
> bothered by it.
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> > Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 4:33 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Weekly newsletter idea
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> >
> > Isn't this exactly along the lines of what Doug does on
> > www.vansairforce.net? Anything "newsworthy" in the RV scene
> > usually appears
> > there... A little collaboration on your part might save a
> > lot of people
> > having to look in multiple places.
> >
> > And if you recorded the talks, like the one Dick Martin did,
> > you could stick
> > 'em up on Doug's site under "RV Talk" for the world to hear...
> > http://www.vansairforce.net/rvtalk.htm
> >
> > Just my 2 cents. I have too many "things" to follow as it is.
> >
> > do not archive
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 1:51 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: Weekly newsletter idea
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins"
> > > --> <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
> > >
> > > So there I was sitting at the quarterly meeting of the
> > Minnesota Wing
> > > of Van's Air Force this morning listening to Dick Martin talk and
> > > thinking, "man, this is good, lots of folks should hear
> > about this."
> > > And then there was talk of the service bulletin, and some
> > other folks
> > > had good information. And this morning I browsed a bunch of
> > Web sites
> > > from Matronics to VAF to Yahoo to EAA to builder sites -- just like
> > > everyone else does -- and thought
> > > "it would be nice to have a quick summary that highlights
> > the stuff that's
> > > going on in the RV world....referring people to the proper forums,
> > > podcasts,
> > > message boards, mailing lists and Web sites from whence they came.
> > >
> > > So now there is? RV Builder's Hotline. Delivered every Saturday
> > > morning to your inbox. No charge. No advertising. No privacy
> > > violations.
> > >
> > > Just because.
> > >
> > > Here's the Web site sample. But it will only be available
> > by e-mail in
> > > HTML
> > > or PDF format (please stipulate).
> > >
> > > http://home.comcast.net/~bcollinsrv7a/eaa/rvbuildernewsletter.htm
> > >
> > > And if you have something you'd like to highlight
> > (especially if it's
> > > published elsewhere and you just need folks to find it,
> > send it along)
> > >
> > >
> > > Bob Collins
> > > St. Paul, Minn.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Question for Canadians concerning inspections |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Carl Kristensen" <carlkristensen@rogers.com>
Wow, thanks for the quick responses!
To all who have asked, I live in London, Ont. I should have mentioned that
in the first email.
It seems to be the consensus that one side should be left clecoed, and that
is what I was leaning toward but it seemed like the inspector would then
only be seeing half of the work (the other half being the open side). This
puts my mind to ease and I can now get back to building.
Thanks again
Carl
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Weekly newsletter idea |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan <dan@rdan.com>
I like the Idea and the layout, I will subscribe also,
Thanks to all
Dan -8
rudder
picking up QB on friday !
N728RV reserved
Snohomish WA
"Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. "
Bob,
I too like the idea . . . and have subscribed.
Bob in SE Iowa
RV-8 Finishing Slowly!
On 3/11/06, Bob Collins wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins"
>
> Nobody's forcing anybody to do anything, Dan. And it's not meant to
> detract
> from anyone's site and as good as VAF is, not everything is there,
> especially with folks trying all sorts of new things and technologies.
>
> It's meant to be what it says it is...a QUICK read of highlights.
> Hopefully
> it'll be clean and efficient, help everyone find even more information on
> ALL of the various places it may exist.
>
> If folks don't find it useful, no harm no foul. They'll never see it nor
> be
> bothered by it.
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
> > Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 4:33 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Weekly newsletter idea
> >
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> >
> > Isn't this exactly along the lines of what Doug does on
> > www.vansairforce.net? Anything "newsworthy" in the RV scene
> > usually appears
> > there... A little collaboration on your part might save a
> > lot of people
> > having to look in multiple places.
> >
> > And if you recorded the talks, like the one Dick Martin did,
> > you could stick
> > 'em up on Doug's site under "RV Talk" for the world to hear...
> > http://www.vansairforce.net/rvtalk.htm
> >
> > Just my 2 cents. I have too many "things" to follow as it is.
> >
> > do not archive
> > )_( Dan
> > RV-7 N714D
> > http://www.rvproject.com
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Bob Collins"
> > To:
> > Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 1:51 PM
> > Subject: RV-List: Weekly newsletter idea
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins"
> > > -->
> > >
> > > So there I was sitting at the quarterly meeting of the
> > Minnesota Wing
> > > of Van's Air Force this morning listening to Dick Martin talk and
> > > thinking, "man, this is good, lots of folks should hear
> > about this."
> > > And then there was talk of the service bulletin, and some
> > other folks
> > > had good information. And this morning I browsed a bunch of
> > Web sites
> > > from Matronics to VAF to Yahoo to EAA to builder sites -- just like
> > > everyone else does -- and thought
> > > "it would be nice to have a quick summary that highlights
> > the stuff that's
> > > going on in the RV world....referring people to the proper forums,
> > > podcasts,
> > > message boards, mailing lists and Web sites from whence they came.
> > >
> > > So now there is? RV Builder's Hotline. Delivered every Saturday
> > > morning to your inbox. No charge. No advertising. No privacy
> > > violations.
> > >
> > > Just because.
> > >
> > > Here's the Web site sample. But it will only be available
> > by e-mail in
> > > HTML
> > > or PDF format (please stipulate).
> > >
> > > http://home.comcast.net/~bcollinsrv7a/eaa/rvbuildernewsletter.htm
> > >
> > > And if you have something you'd like to highlight
> > (especially if it's
> > > published elsewhere and you just need folks to find it,
> > send it along)
> > >
> > >
> > > Bob Collins
> > > St. Paul, Minn.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank SB Experience |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
----- Original Message -----
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
> I have used Tite-Seal, instead of the Proseal...it has worked well..
>
> Bert
>
> Rv6a
>
((((((((((()))))))))))))
How long does the titeseal require to cure or set up so fuel can be put back
into the tanks? Would you use it without the cork gaskets?
Indiana Larry
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank SB Experience |
--> RV-List message posted by: "D.Bristol" <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
Let this be a lesson to new builders, don't let this happen to you! Make
your tanks easily removable by painting them separately, and NOT
painting the screws. This could have been a half day job to do both tanks.
Dave -6 SoCal
EAA Technical Counselor
Steve Glasgow wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>
>My experience doing the Fuel Tank SB.
>
>The fuel tank SD is a bitch, but doable without removing the tank. All
>total, 10-12 man hours to do the left tank...
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank SB Experience |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Just a short update on our plans for the Tank SB. We ordered the parts &
"stuff" from Van's to do the job AND the #8 paint cutter from The Yard Store
just in case we do take off the tanks. It's a devise we have not used before
but it reportedly cuts the paint around the screw head so as to not tear the
paint away as the head turns while breaking the screw loose. We have a few
paint issues with the underside of the wings so we may just take them off &
do everything at once, one time. Plates are going back together with hex
head #8 x 32's and washers to increase the bite area. N561FS HRII KABONG
Do Not Archive.
----- Original Message -----
From: "D.Bristol" <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 12:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank SB Experience
> --> RV-List message posted by: "D.Bristol" <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Let this be a lesson to new builders, don't let this happen to you! Make
> your tanks easily removable by painting them separately, and NOT
> painting the screws. This could have been a half day job to do both tanks.
>
> Dave -6 SoCal
> EAA Technical Counselor
>
> Steve Glasgow wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Glasgow" <willfly@carolina.rr.com>
>>
>>My experience doing the Fuel Tank SB.
>>
>>The fuel tank SD is a bitch, but doable without removing the tank. All
>>total, 10-12 man hours to do the left tank...
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing tank inspection covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Ed,
The Titeseal I used was/is the light weight version.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
Ed Anderson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
>Richard, did you use the light or medium weight titeseal compound?
>
>Thanks
>
>Ed
>
>Ed Anderson
>Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>Matthews, NC
>eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley@att.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 6:04 PM
>Subject: RV-List: Sealing tank inspection covers
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>>
>>FWIW
>>
>>If you haven't yet sealed your inspection plates onto your tanks or
>>don't like using Pro Seal on your inspection plates, the following may
>>be of interest to you.
>>
>>I originally sealed my tanks about four years ago. I've been flying for
>>a year with about 75 hours on my RV-6A.
>>I used the cork gaskets that were supplied with the wing kit. In the
>>assembly process, I coated the seal area of inboard rib surface with
>>Titeseal (that I purchased from ACS) and placed the cork gasket on the
>>coated surface. I then coated inside mating surface of the inspection
>>plate with the Titeseal and placed it on the gasket. I then inserted the
>>screws and torqued them a moderate amount that resulted in a small
>>compression of the gasket and extrusion of the Titeseal from the edges
>>and around the screws. The original pressure test of the tanks showed no
>>leaks around the inspection plate. After assembling the plane and
>>filling the tanks, there were no fuel leaks around the plates.
>>
>>During the last few days, I removed the tanks to do the recent Service
>>Bulletin. After removing the screws from the inspection plates, they
>>lifted off without any effort. I then cleaned the old Tite-Seal from
>>both the plate and the inboard rib with acetone. After doing the work
>>for the SB, I then repeated the above procedures of Titeseal coating and
>>assembly. The tanks are re-installed and filled with fuel with no leaks.
>>
>>Regards,
>>
>>Richard Dudley
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Thanks, Richard. I will order myself some as well as some of those "O" ring
screws - perhaps I can stop a small but persistent seep - and make it safer.
After having my flop tube flop off in flight, I probably torqued it on so
tight, I won't be able to get it off now{:>)
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley@att.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: Titeseal was Re: RV-List: Sealing tank inspection covers
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> Ed,
> The Titeseal I used was/is the light weight version.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
>
> Ed Anderson wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>>
>>Richard, did you use the light or medium weight titeseal compound?
>>
>>Thanks
>>
>>Ed
>>
>>Ed Anderson
>>Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
>>Matthews, NC
>>eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley@att.net>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 6:04 PM
>>Subject: RV-List: Sealing tank inspection covers
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>>>
>>>FWIW
>>>
>>>If you haven't yet sealed your inspection plates onto your tanks or
>>>don't like using Pro Seal on your inspection plates, the following may
>>>be of interest to you.
>>>
>>>I originally sealed my tanks about four years ago. I've been flying for
>>>a year with about 75 hours on my RV-6A.
>>>I used the cork gaskets that were supplied with the wing kit. In the
>>>assembly process, I coated the seal area of inboard rib surface with
>>>Titeseal (that I purchased from ACS) and placed the cork gasket on the
>>>coated surface. I then coated inside mating surface of the inspection
>>>plate with the Titeseal and placed it on the gasket. I then inserted the
>>>screws and torqued them a moderate amount that resulted in a small
>>>compression of the gasket and extrusion of the Titeseal from the edges
>>>and around the screws. The original pressure test of the tanks showed no
>>>leaks around the inspection plate. After assembling the plane and
>>>filling the tanks, there were no fuel leaks around the plates.
>>>
>>>During the last few days, I removed the tanks to do the recent Service
>>>Bulletin. After removing the screws from the inspection plates, they
>>>lifted off without any effort. I then cleaned the old Tite-Seal from
>>>both the plate and the inboard rib with acetone. After doing the work
>>>for the SB, I then repeated the above procedures of Titeseal coating and
>>>assembly. The tanks are re-installed and filled with fuel with no leaks.
>>>
>>>Regards,
>>>
>>>Richard Dudley
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank SB Experience |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Larry,
The Titeseal consistency does not seem to change markedly with time. I
don't believe that there is any sort of "cure". It is a viscous
"honey-like" consistency. When removing the plates after four years, the
gaskets easily separated from the tank and plate surfaces. I refilled
both tanks within an hour of re-mounting the inspection plates. I
checked the area of the seal as I filled the tanks and two days after
with no sign of leakage. After two days without leaks, I re mounted the
wing fairings.
I used new cork gaskets. The old gaskets that I removed were permeated
with the Titeseal. I believe that the gaskets serve a purpose to hold
the Titeseal, allow it to extrude around the screws and that the
saturated cork provides a seal conforming with the two mating surfaces
and is a mechanically strong barrier to leakage.
I, too, would recommend to new builders to paint the tanks separate from
the wings, or at least avoid painting the screws. That avoids the
anxiety of unscrewing painted screws. I was able to remove the tanks,
clean the Titeseal residue, conduct the SB on the pickup tube nut,
replace the inspection plate, replace the tank with all its screws in
about 3-4 hours per tank. A second pair of hands is helpful to navigate
the tank clear of the tubing and avoid scratching the wing.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>>
>> I have used Tite-Seal, instead of the Proseal...it has worked well..
>>
>>Bert
>>
>>Rv6a
>>
>>
>>
>((((((((((()))))))))))))
>
>How long does the titeseal require to cure or set up so fuel can be put back
>into the tanks? Would you use it without the cork gaskets?
>
>Indiana Larry
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing tank inspection covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840@comcast.net>
Ed,
Here are some links for the Titeseal spec sheets:
Light weight: http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo/T2066.PDF
Medium weight: http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo/T2566.PDF
Ken
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 8:26 PM
Subject: Titeseal was Re: RV-List: Sealing tank inspection covers
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Richard, did you use the light or medium weight titeseal compound?
Thanks
Ed
Ed Anderson
Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley@att.net>
Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: RV-List: Sealing tank inspection covers
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>
> FWIW
>
> If you haven't yet sealed your inspection plates onto your tanks or
> don't like using Pro Seal on your inspection plates, the following may
> be of interest to you.
>
> I originally sealed my tanks about four years ago. I've been flying for
> a year with about 75 hours on my RV-6A.
> I used the cork gaskets that were supplied with the wing kit. In the
> assembly process, I coated the seal area of inboard rib surface with
> Titeseal (that I purchased from ACS) and placed the cork gasket on the
> coated surface. I then coated inside mating surface of the inspection
> plate with the Titeseal and placed it on the gasket. I then inserted the
> screws and torqued them a moderate amount that resulted in a small
> compression of the gasket and extrusion of the Titeseal from the edges
> and around the screws. The original pressure test of the tanks showed no
> leaks around the inspection plate. After assembling the plane and
> filling the tanks, there were no fuel leaks around the plates.
>
> During the last few days, I removed the tanks to do the recent Service
> Bulletin. After removing the screws from the inspection plates, they
> lifted off without any effort. I then cleaned the old Tite-Seal from
> both the plate and the inboard rib with acetone. After doing the work
> for the SB, I then repeated the above procedures of Titeseal coating and
> assembly. The tanks are re-installed and filled with fuel with no leaks.
>
> Regards,
>
> Richard Dudley
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Tank SB attach screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Wentzell" <DWentzell@wi.rr.com>
Hello,
I noticed that a couple builders had a problem with the button head cap
screw stripping. I experienced the same problem but in a more accessible
location, and even that was very difficult to remove. My solution for the
tank access covers was to use socket head cap screws. The head is actually
knurled, and sticks up about .125 so if the hex drive does strip there is
something there to easily grip and back it out. McMaster Carr carries them.
David Wentzell - RV6 - 233DW (60 hrs)
Racine, Wisconsin
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Tank SB attach screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Listers,
Since this is the hot topic right now, here's a suggestion. Buy a few new
no. 2 Phillips dry wall screw driver bits. Get the kind that have the
serrations at the tip. These will bite into the screws and not strip them out.
They can be taped into a 1/4 inch socket with a turn or two of electrical tape
and turned with a ratchet handle. There's my $.02 worth.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying 144 hours
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Sealing tank inspection covers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Thanks, Ken. Appreciate it.
Ed
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 7:23 PM
Subject: RE: Titeseal was Re: RV-List: Sealing tank inspection covers
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Howell" <cfi1513840@comcast.net>
>
> Ed,
>
> Here are some links for the Titeseal spec sheets:
>
> Light weight: http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo/T2066.PDF
>
> Medium weight: http://www.gunk.com/prodinfo/T2566.PDF
>
> Ken
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson
> Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 8:26 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Titeseal was Re: RV-List: Sealing tank inspection covers
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Richard, did you use the light or medium weight titeseal compound?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ed
>
> Ed Anderson
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Dudley" <rhdudley@att.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Saturday, March 11, 2006 6:04 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Sealing tank inspection covers
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
>>
>> FWIW
>>
>> If you haven't yet sealed your inspection plates onto your tanks or
>> don't like using Pro Seal on your inspection plates, the following may
>> be of interest to you.
>>
>> I originally sealed my tanks about four years ago. I've been flying for
>> a year with about 75 hours on my RV-6A.
>> I used the cork gaskets that were supplied with the wing kit. In the
>> assembly process, I coated the seal area of inboard rib surface with
>> Titeseal (that I purchased from ACS) and placed the cork gasket on the
>> coated surface. I then coated inside mating surface of the inspection
>> plate with the Titeseal and placed it on the gasket. I then inserted the
>> screws and torqued them a moderate amount that resulted in a small
>> compression of the gasket and extrusion of the Titeseal from the edges
>> and around the screws. The original pressure test of the tanks showed no
>> leaks around the inspection plate. After assembling the plane and
>> filling the tanks, there were no fuel leaks around the plates.
>>
>> During the last few days, I removed the tanks to do the recent Service
>> Bulletin. After removing the screws from the inspection plates, they
>> lifted off without any effort. I then cleaned the old Tite-Seal from
>> both the plate and the inboard rib with acetone. After doing the work
>> for the SB, I then repeated the above procedures of Titeseal coating and
>> assembly. The tanks are re-installed and filled with fuel with no leaks.
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Richard Dudley
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Kx-125 Instulation Manual |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
Hello Larry,
Did you get the installation manual I emailed?
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Larry Wiley
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 7:52 PM
Subject: RV-List: Kx-125 Instulation Manual
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Wiley" <wiley@citynet.net>
Fellow RVers, I bought a used KX-125 nav -com for my new RV-7A but I
have no instillation manual for it. If anyone has one, please E-mail me
at wiley@citynet.net. Thanks, Larry Wiley
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tank SB attach screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> I noticed that a couple builders had a problem with the button head cap
> screw stripping. I experienced the same problem but in a more accessible
> location, and even that was very difficult to remove. My solution for the
> tank access covers was to use socket head cap screws. The head is actually
> knurled, and sticks up about .125 so if the hex drive does strip there is
> something there to easily grip and back it out. McMaster Carr carries
> them.
> David Wentzell - RV6 - 233DW (60 hrs)
My own thoughts exactly...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV8/Pictures/Mvc-378x.jpg
Good idea to add some washers also.
Randy Lervold
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tank SB attach screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Shorter solution, go to Sears Tool Dept. spend 7 bucks for 1/4" hex head
angle ratchet. Back of ratchet to working end is at least an inch shorter
than the 1/4" ratchet, socket & #2 hex insert. KABONG Do Not Archive (it's
in there from before)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 6:07 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tank SB attach screws
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Listers,
>
> Since this is the hot topic right now, here's a suggestion. Buy a few
> new
> no. 2 Phillips dry wall screw driver bits. Get the kind that have the
> serrations at the tip. These will bite into the screws and not strip them
> out.
> They can be taped into a 1/4 inch socket with a turn or two of electrical
> tape
> and turned with a ratchet handle. There's my $.02 worth.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A Flying 144 hours
Message 21
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| Subject: | You think YOU'RE building an airplane .... [TAD OFF TOPIC] |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-3046542226114078023&q=airbus
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
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