Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:28 AM - Re: RV8 canopy frame. (Steve Struyk)
2. 11:51 AM - FS: ANR Headsets (Tim Olson)
3. 02:17 PM - Tip tanks (Trevor Mills)
4. 04:41 PM - Re: Spouse afraid to fly (Wentz, Don)
5. 04:41 PM - Re: Tip tanks (WPAerial@aol.com)
6. 05:58 PM - Re: Tip tanks (Charlie England)
7. 07:35 PM - Re: Tip tanks (Howard Walrath)
8. 09:16 PM - CS prop slinging grease (Mark E Navratil)
9. 09:16 PM - Nosewheel bearing question (Mark E Navratil)
10. 09:41 PM - Re: Nosewheel bearing question (charles heathco)
11. 09:57 PM - Re: CS prop slinging grease (Bruce Gray)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: RV8 canopy frame. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
Paul,
Seems mine fit that way at first too. By the time you fit the canopy, cut
off the windshield, fit the skirts and lay up the windshield fairing, you
will find that it will not travel as far forward as it does now. Others my
have a different opinion but that's the mine worked out. I'd press on.
There's lots of latitude in the final fitting.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles MO
RV-8, 35 Hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, March 19, 2006 10:17 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV8 canopy frame.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
>
> Hello all,
>
> I am in the process of trying to fit the canopy frame to my fuselage. As
> it
> sits now, I have the C661 slide block installed and the frame into the
> C806
> anchor block. When positioned fully forward, the frames front rollers roll
> up onto the WD814 roll bar plates. Is this OK? When the rollers travel
> onto the WD814 plate, it raises the canopy frame up a just a hair.
>
> Waiting for your reply to move forward.
>
> Paul Rice
> RV8
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | FS: ANR Headsets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I got some new Bose headsets to go in my -10 that's now flying,
so it's time to sell some of my previous headsets.
My previous headsets, all 4 pairs, were upgraded with the
ANR Headset upgrades from http://www.anr-headsets.com/
and also beyond that, a noise reducing kit similar to the
Oregon Aero Hushkit. (I got the materials and did it myself)
In addition I installed Gel earseals.
So these are very nice, very quiet, and good quality headsets,
and I would bet each pair cost me $300-350 by the time I
got done with them.
I have 2 pair for sale right now.
One pair is the Pilot Avionics P-51C Pilot Cadet's for kids:
http://www.pilot-avionics.com/html/html_root/juniorhead.htm
The other is a Flightcom 5DX:
http://www.flightcom.net/headsets/5dx-headset.php
with the ANR it would actually be closer to the
Classic ANR set though.
http://www.flightcom.net/headsets/classic-anr-headset.php
I was going to list them on ebay, but I thought I'd post
them here first in case someone was interested. I'm going
to Sun-N-Fun and depending on the dates you'd be there, I could
bring them along. If you're interested, I can send photos
and you can make an offer.
Tim
--
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Trevor Mills" <millstrj@ozemail.com.au>
I would like to know how anybody has plumbed tip tanks to the mains. Any photo's
or even where and how would be a great help thanks.
Trevor. 80605
Message 4
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| Subject: | Spouse afraid to fly |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com>
Type of plane makes a big difference.
I took my wife up in a 152 while building the RV-6.
She hated it.
Now that we have the RV, she has flown to Oshkosh with me 4 times, no
problem, and that's from the west coast over the rockies.
It's the difference between a rickety, will it fall out of the sky
feeling, and the solid strong feel of the RV.
(Nothing against the 150, we all flew them at some point, right?)
Dw
RV-6 925hrs do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
For the first few flights in our C-150 I did look over and see some
white knuckles. What a sport! She is my best flying buddy now. For
probably the first 2 years whenever someone would ask her if she liked
flying she would reply, "It's getting better."
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
Just wonder why u want tip tanks? Sure no fun being in the air that long.
do not archive
Jerry Wilken
albany Oregon
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
WPAerial@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
>
>Just wonder why u want tip tanks? Sure no fun being in the air that long.
>
>do not archive
>
>Jerry Wilken
>albany Oregon
>
Who are you asking? :-)
The easy answer for me is the ability to 'tanker' fuel, not to stay in
the air longer. The ability to take a typical ~3 hr trip & return
without refueling could easily save me $30-$50. Anyone who uses auto
fuel or bases their plane where they have their own avgas tank can save
$1/gal or more for each gallon they don't have to buy 'on the road'.
Charlie
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Howard Walrath" <der_Jagdflieger@prodigy.net>
Jerry, I would have to agree with Charlie. My RV-6A was
constructed using one additional bay in each wing for fuel,
giving it 27 gallons per side or 54 gallons total. It also lets
me make many round trip flights without refueling, and yet
always land with IFR fuel reserves remaining.
One of the benefits of living at Hidden Valley Airpark (5TX0)
is our 100LL fuel co-op, where we pay just $.06 per gallon
over the cost of the gasoline (and our 79 members use a
lot of fuel each month). Typically, I've found that equates
to about half the cost of purchasing it away from the airpark.
Howard Walrath, EAA Life Member 93116
owner of RV-6A N55HW Flying 465 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie England
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tip tanks
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
WPAerial@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: WPAerial@aol.com
>
>Just wonder why u want tip tanks? Sure no fun being in the air that long.
>
>do not archive
>
>Jerry Wilken
>albany Oregon
>
Who are you asking? :-)
The easy answer for me is the ability to 'tanker' fuel, not to stay in
the air longer. The ability to take a typical ~3 hr trip & return
without refueling could easily save me $30-$50. Anyone who uses auto
fuel or bases their plane where they have their own avgas tank can save
$1/gal or more for each gallon they don't have to buy 'on the road'.
Charlie
Message 8
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| Subject: | CS prop slinging grease |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark E Navratil <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys,
I have 15.8 hours now on my RV and my new Hartzell is still slinging out
some grease....just enough to see a few fine streaks down the blade and
get drops of grease on my windshield, cowl, and wings. I believe
Hartzell says that if you let the prop sit in the box for over 18 months
the seals will dry out and need to be replaced because they'll leak. Of
course when I ordered my prop I knew I'd be flying in a year so this
wouldn't be a problem for me. Yeah right. It sat in the box for two
years before I first ran the engine...
I have a hard time believing I'm the only one like this so I'm wondering,
has anybody else experienced this problem? If so, did it ever go away?
I'm not concerned about it from a safety perspective--I can lube the hub
occasionally and make sure it doesn't dry out in there--but it's a real
pain to clean up especially in the canopy. If anybody's replaced these
seals, can you remember how much it set you back and where you had the
work done?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D flying 15.8 hours....love the flying, hate the cleanup
afterwards....
Message 9
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| Subject: | Nosewheel bearing question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark E Navratil <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys (those of you with a nosedragger),
I still don't have my wheel fairings on. This weekend during preflight I
noticed some black goo, tar-like stuff oozing out around the rubber
bearing seals on my nosewheel. It did not appear until I had about a
dozen landings on the airplane. Since the grease that was in it
originally was the normal amber color I was a bit surprised to see this
color, and also a bit surprised to see it leaking out as it had been
perfectly clean up until this point. Anybody else seen such a thing?
I also checked the rolling friction of the tire and it is still REALLY
stiff to turn by hand. I know that when a wheel is properly installed
there should be enough load on the bearing to provide friction....i.e. it
should not continue to spin around freely after you give it a whirl by
hand. But from the first time I installed the nosewheel--properly
torqued per the plans with a calibrated wrench--it seemed excessively
stiff to me. I remember the plans said that it would be this way until
it was broken in a bit. I don't know how long that should take but I
checked the nosewheel on my hangar mate's new -7A (with fewer hours than
I have) and his wheel turned much easier. I tried loosening the nut on
the axle bolt and that made it turn more freely but then I noticed that
the spacers were spinning too. I torqued it back up and now it's
ridiculously stiff again. My hangar mate's -7A has the wheel pant
installed so I can't see whether the spacers are spinning on his. I
called Vans and Gus said that it's quite common for people to call and
complain that the spacers have been spinning instead of the bearing and
galling up the fork assembly. He suggested that I could put some screws
in through the fork into the spacer to keep them from spinning. This
would allow me to reduce the pressure/friction on the bearings, but he
cautioned against reducing the torque on the axle bolt too much since
Matco calls out 7-10 ft lbs for this assembly.
Personally I think the whole design is a bit iffy from the perspective
that there's a very small margin between having enough pressure to keep
the spacers from turning without so much pressure the that rotational
friction on the bearings/seals is excessive. It makes me wonder how many
people are flying around out there with the wheel pants on, completely
unaware that the spacers are spinning away while the bearings are doing
nothing. On the other hand, if the rotational friction is excessive it
*may* have contributed to some of the bent nose gear incidents that have
occurred in recent years. It's pretty scary watching the nosegear at
high speed, even during a good landing....the more rotational friction,
the further the gear is going to bend back/under when it first makes
contact at high speed. I think I'll disassemble the whole thing, check
the bearings for overheating, repack them, put screws in through the
fork/spacer assembly, and tighten it up until it feels "about right".
Any comments/experience from others with this assembly would be
appreciated. FWIW, I understand that the -6A's had a different design
(which some local RVators consider to be superior to the current
design...).
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D flying 15.8 hours
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Nosewheel bearing question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "charles heathco" <cheathco@junct.com>
Mark, I would asume the dark stuff is grease. as for the tightness/spacers
spinning, I noticed the spacers spinning problem (I didn build the 6a)When
I took off the wheel at cond insp. I ended up adding a washer on one side of
spacer which allowed me to tighten the axel bolt properly without binding
the wheel. Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mark E Navratil" <czechsix@juno.com>
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 9:42 PM
Subject: RV-List: Nosewheel bearing question
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark E Navratil <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys (those of you with a nosedragger),
I still don't have my wheel fairings on. This weekend during preflight I
noticed some black goo, tar-like stuff oozing out around the rubber
bearing seals on my nosewheel. It did not appear until I had about a
dozen landings on the airplane. Since the grease that was in it
originally was the normal amber color I was a bit surprised to see this
color, and also a bit surprised to see it leaking out as it had been
perfectly clean up until this point. Anybody else seen such a thing?
I also checked the rolling friction of the tire and it is still REALLY
stiff to turn by hand. I know that when a wheel is properly installed
there should be enough load on the bearing to provide friction....i.e. it
should not continue to spin around freely after you give it a whirl by
hand. But from the first time I installed the nosewheel--properly
torqued per the plans with a calibrated wrench--it seemed excessively
stiff to me. I remember the plans said that it would be this way until
it was broken in a bit. I don't know how long that should take but I
checked the nosewheel on my hangar mate's new -7A (with fewer hours than
I have) and his wheel turned much easier. I tried loosening the nut on
the axle bolt and that made it turn more freely but then I noticed that
the spacers were spinning too. I torqued it back up and now it's
ridiculously stiff again. My hangar mate's -7A has the wheel pant
installed so I can't see whether the spacers are spinning on his. I
called Vans and Gus said that it's quite common for people to call and
complain that the spacers have been spinning instead of the bearing and
galling up the fork assembly. He suggested that I could put some screws
in through the fork into the spacer to keep them from spinning. This
would allow me to reduce the pressure/friction on the bearings, but he
cautioned against reducing the torque on the axle bolt too much since
Matco calls out 7-10 ft lbs for this assembly.
Personally I think the whole design is a bit iffy from the perspective
that there's a very small margin between having enough pressure to keep
the spacers from turning without so much pressure the that rotational
friction on the bearings/seals is excessive. It makes me wonder how many
people are flying around out there with the wheel pants on, completely
unaware that the spacers are spinning away while the bearings are doing
nothing. On the other hand, if the rotational friction is excessive it
*may* have contributed to some of the bent nose gear incidents that have
occurred in recent years. It's pretty scary watching the nosegear at
high speed, even during a good landing....the more rotational friction,
the further the gear is going to bend back/under when it first makes
contact at high speed. I think I'll disassemble the whole thing, check
the bearings for overheating, repack them, put screws in through the
fork/spacer assembly, and tighten it up until it feels "about right".
Any comments/experience from others with this assembly would be
appreciated. FWIW, I understand that the -6A's had a different design
(which some local RVators consider to be superior to the current
design...).
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D flying 15.8 hours
Message 11
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| Subject: | CS prop slinging grease |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
The shelf life is 2 years. A prop shop should charge around $500 for a
reseal job.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mark E Navratil
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2006 10:12 PM
Subject: RV-List: CS prop slinging grease
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark E Navratil <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys,
I have 15.8 hours now on my RV and my new Hartzell is still slinging out
some grease....just enough to see a few fine streaks down the blade and
get drops of grease on my windshield, cowl, and wings. I believe
Hartzell says that if you let the prop sit in the box for over 18 months
the seals will dry out and need to be replaced because they'll leak. Of
course when I ordered my prop I knew I'd be flying in a year so this
wouldn't be a problem for me. Yeah right. It sat in the box for two
years before I first ran the engine...
I have a hard time believing I'm the only one like this so I'm wondering,
has anybody else experienced this problem? If so, did it ever go away?
I'm not concerned about it from a safety perspective--I can lube the hub
occasionally and make sure it doesn't dry out in there--but it's a real
pain to clean up especially in the canopy. If anybody's replaced these
seals, can you remember how much it set you back and where you had the
work done?
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D flying 15.8 hours....love the flying, hate the cleanup
afterwards....
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