Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:04 AM - XSEA airborne (Nic)
2. 05:12 AM - Throttle quadrant knobs (RGray67968@aol.com)
3. 05:38 AM - Re: XSEA airborne (Richard Seiders)
4. 05:55 AM - Re: Throttle quadrant knobs (Jamie Painter)
5. 05:56 AM - Re: Cross wind landings (Steve Struyk)
6. 06:28 AM - Wires out in the wing tips (Joseph Larson)
7. 06:50 AM - Re: Wires out in the wing tips (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
8. 06:56 AM - Re: Advanced Flight EFIS Price (RobHickman@aol.com)
9. 07:02 AM - Re: Garmin GPS question (Sam Buchanan)
10. 07:26 AM - Re: Wires out in the wing tips (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
11. 07:55 AM - Re: Wires out in the wing tips (Joseph Larson)
12. 08:37 AM - Re: Throttle quadrant knobs (Paul Besing)
13. 09:09 AM - Performance Data (John Fasching)
14. 09:31 AM - RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 (Paul Besing)
15. 10:19 AM - problem with clogging a filter (Roger Bartholomee)
16. 10:35 AM - Re: N4032Q (Charles Rowbotham)
17. 10:47 AM - Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices (G McNutt)
18. 10:53 AM - Re: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 (Randy Lervold)
19. 03:59 PM - lycoming SI 1462, prop oil leak test procedure (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
20. 04:01 PM - Kitplanes, May, Peternel RV-9A (Albert Gardner)
21. 05:42 PM - Re: Wires out in the wing tips (HCRV6@comcast.net)
22. 06:05 PM - Re: Wires out in the wing tips (DonVS)
23. 06:57 PM - RV-10 IO-540 Motor Mounts (Russell Daves)
24. 06:57 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 51 Msgs - 03/30/06 (Glen Matejcek)
25. 07:38 PM - S & N Fun (charles heathco)
26. 07:53 PM - Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices (Charlie Kuss)
27. 08:08 PM - Re: Re: RV-12 question (Mike Robertson)
28. 08:08 PM - Re: S & N Fun (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
29. 11:10 PM - Re: Throttle quadrant knobs (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Nic" <Nic@skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
At long last the weather here in the UK gave us a chance last week to go fly
and have some fun and finally take some pictures of my new RV8 in the air.
Many thanks to Neil and Rob for all their help, to John Stahr for coming all
the way from Oregon, USA to England to paint my RV and all those on the list
that have helped along the way.
Pictures of my new gal are at :
http://futurshox.net/aerothumbviewer.php?itaken=148&start=9
Best Rgds, Nic
Message 2
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| Subject: | Throttle quadrant knobs |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Anybody know where to buy the round knobs for a throttle quadrant....any
color will do right about now.
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: XSEA airborne |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
Great looking 8 Nic. Congradulations, and thanks for sharing that very nice
photo website.
Dick, RV6A 400+hrs
At 08:56 AM 3/31/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Nic" <Nic@skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
>
>At long last the weather here in the UK gave us a chance last week to go fly
>and have some fun and finally take some pictures of my new RV8 in the air.
>
>Many thanks to Neil and Rob for all their help, to John Stahr for coming all
>the way from Oregon, USA to England to paint my RV and all those on the list
>that have helped along the way.
>
>Pictures of my new gal are at :
>
>http://futurshox.net/aerothumbviewer.php?itaken=148&start=9
>
>Best Rgds, Nic
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle quadrant knobs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jamie Painter <jamie@jpainter.org>
RGray67968@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
>
>Anybody know where to buy the round knobs for a throttle quadrant....any
>color will do right about now.
>
>Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
Rick:
Try US plastics. They have some ball knobs, multiple sizes and they
have brass inserts for attaching. They're only sold in black.
Try here: (your e-mail client will probably break up the link)
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=105&product%5Fid=8684
Jamie
RV-7A Canopy
http://rv.jpainter.org
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cross wind landings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
Not only are the engines in jeopardy (on some airplanes) but add in the
sweep of the wings on jet aircraft and the wing tips can be dangerously
close to the ground with a nose high attitude and (God forbid) a big sink
rate. The B-727 is a classic example. I'm typed in the DC-9. 727, 757/767.
The most critical of those was the 72, Mostly because of a more pronounced
sweep, and of course, being lower to ground to begin with.
Do Not archive
Steve Struyk
RV-8, 40.0 hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cross wind landings
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> On 30 Mar 2006, at 17:34, Steve Struyk wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Amazing video! What surprised me was that the "demonstrated
>> crosswind" was made with no rudder and aileron inputs. It appears
>> that it demonstrates the maximum side load capability rather than
>> the cross control effectiveness. For years I've been under the
>> impression the limit was set by the latter.
>>
>> Do Not Archive
>
> It all depends on the airplane. The big jets cannot touch down with
> very much bank angle, or you risk touching an engine to the runway.
>
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wires out in the wing tips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
Well, I'm almost ready (after far too many years) to rivet wing
skins. I'm having a problem deciding about something. I haven't
done anything about making a path for any wires that I may need out
in the wing tips.
I have a landing light near each wing tip (the duckworks system), so
I know I'll need to run something for that. And of course, there will
be position and strobe lights out in the tips.
For these lights, can I just install a grommet in each rib? When I'm
ready to wire everything, I'd then run the wires through the
grommets, all bundled together?
I have no idea what size wires I'm going to need for these. Heck, I
don't even know if it's standard to run ground wires back to the
battery or if I'm supposed to ground to the airframe. One big
aluminum wire :-)
Should I anticipate any sort of wing tip antennas? I've heard from
some guys who have had wing tip antennas that they don't work very
well. Someone who talked at the MN Wing meeting a few weeks ago
about his fast airplane said he'd installed wing tip antennas and got
lousy reception, so he switched to belly-mounted, tapered antennas.
Is this all something that can wait until much later in the process?
I understand I only should rivet one set of skins (tops or bottoms)
at this time, doing the other sets much further in the process.
Would I be cursing myself if I waited on these wiring issues until then?
I know some guys have installed electrical conduit for their wires.
This seems like unnecessary weight, but maybe it's a better idea than
grommets.
As you can see, I really don't know what the best plan is for this.
Comments from those who have gone before are appreciated -- even if
you just want to say, "I did it this way, and I wouldn't do it that
way again."
-Joe
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wing tips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Joe,
I just used snap bushings in each rib, no conduit. When you run the wires
use cable ties about every 4 to 6 inches in the rib bays between the ribs.
Use mil spec aircraft type wire. Van's wiring kit has tables for the wire
sizes for different amps and run lengths. Also, go to
http://www.aeroelectric.com for lots of ideas.
The only thing I would do differently would be to make larger holes for
larger snap bushings to begin with. I had to make up drill extensions out of
1/4
rod to adapt to a Unibit to enlarge some holes after the wings were on the
plane. Remember, you may want to put an autopilot servo in the wing. Mine is
in the bellcrank bay, but some swear by the wingtip location. I wouldn't
change my decision here! One trouble spot is where the wire transitions from
wing to fuselage. Before you put the wings on it would make things easier if
you plan a straight path here.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A flying 146 hours
In a message dated 3/31/2006 9:31:51 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
jpl@showpage.org writes:
I have a landing light near each wing tip (the duckworks system), so
I know I'll need to run something for that. And of course, there will
be position and strobe lights out in the tips.
For these lights, can I just install a grommet in each rib? When I'm
ready to wire everything, I'd then run the wires through the
grommets, all bundled together?
I have no idea what size wires I'm going to need for these. Heck, I
don't even know if it's standard to run ground wires back to the
battery or if I'm supposed to ground to the airframe. One big
aluminum wire :-)
Should I anticipate any sort of wing tip antennas? I've heard from
some guys who have had wing tip antennas that they don't work very
well. Someone who talked at the MN Wing meeting a few weeks ago
about his fast airplane said he'd installed wing tip antennas and got
lousy reception, so he switched to belly-mounted, tapered antennas.
Is this all something that can wait until much later in the process?
I understand I only should rivet one set of skins (tops or bottoms)
at this time, doing the other sets much further in the process.
Would I be cursing myself if I waited on these wiring issues until then?
I know some guys have installed electrical conduit for their wires.
This seems like unnecessary weight, but maybe it's a better idea than
grommets.
As you can see, I really don't know what the best plan is for this.
Comments from those who have gone before are appreciated -- even if
you just want to say, "I did it this way, and I wouldn't do it that
way again."
-Joe
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Advanced Flight EFIS Price |
--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
As of today we have a June delivery date.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
Already in Sunny Florida......
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Shirley Harding wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shirley Harding"
> <shirleyh@oceanbroadband.net>
>
> Has any one used the new Garmin iQue 3600A? Looks like a great
> product - I'd be interested to hear from any one who's using it.
> Also, can any one tell me how it differs from the GPS MAP 296 model?
> The iQue appears to be the better unit, yet here in Oz it's being
> sold at a cheaper price than the 296.
I have not used either unit so can't provide comparisons between the
two. I do recall when the iQue was first introduced there was
considerable discussion (this was on the Anywhere Map forum) about
whether or not the unit produced a NMEA data stream. Seems at that time
nobody had figured out a way to access NMEA data from the iQue. If you
intend to use the iQue with anything that requires NMEA (autopilot, etc)
be sure you research this matter to determine whether or not it will
work in your situation.
Sam Buchanan
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wing tips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Joe,
I forgot to mention: it is not necessary to run a ground wire to the wings
for the lights. Just ground the lights to a screw through the wing rib, etc.
For the autopilot, I ran a separate ground (shield). This is how Cessnas
and all the certificated airplanes that I know of do it.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (flying)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wing tips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
Dan,
Thanks for your comments. They're very helpful.
-Joe
On Mar 31, 2006, at 9:24 AM, Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Joe,
>
> I forgot to mention: it is not necessary to run a ground wire to
> the wings
> for the lights. Just ground the lights to a screw through the wing
> rib, etc.
> For the autopilot, I ran a separate ground (shield). This is how
> Cessnas
> and all the certificated airplanes that I know of do it.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A (flying)
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle quadrant knobs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Van's sells them. I'd be interested in replacing the
ones I have. I bought a throttle quadrant from Van's
and the knobs are wood that are painted. The
craftsmanship is pretty poor.
Alluminum maybe?
Paul Besing
--- Jamie Painter <jamie@jpainter.org> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jamie Painter
> <jamie@jpainter.org>
>
> RGray67968@aol.com wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
> >
> >Anybody know where to buy the round knobs for a
> throttle quadrant....any
> >color will do right about now.
> >
> >Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
>
>
> Rick:
>
> Try US plastics. They have some ball knobs,
> multiple sizes and they
> have brass inserts for attaching. They're only sold
> in black.
>
> Try here: (your e-mail client will probably break up
> the link)
>
>
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=USPlastic&category%5Fname=105&product%5Fid=8684
>
> Jamie
>
> RV-7A Canopy
> http://rv.jpainter.org
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Performance Data |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
The other day someone posted a request for run-up rpm, tach at lift off and after
a few hundred feet in the air, etc, and I just got this data, but the address
posted to send it to turned out a 'bounced' address.
If the person asking for the data will give another address I will re-send what
I noted.
John
Message 14
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| Subject: | RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Has anyone put (or seen) an RV-8 Deluxe quadrant (the
cool black one from Van's) installed in an RV-4? Any
idea if it will fit well in the same location?
Paul Besing
Message 15
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| Subject: | problem with clogging a filter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Bartholomee" <RBartholomeee@comcast.net>
I use a full flow filter by ADC. It filters 100% of the oil unless the
bypass is activated at around 7-8 lbs of back pressure. A light comes on in
the cockpit to let you know the filter is dirty. I have never had this
happen in 50 hours of use except when breaking in my rebuilt engine with new
cylinders.
Roger @ MD43 1965 Cessna 150-E
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Sent: Thursday, March 30, 2006 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Dan
It's your engine and airplane. I could understand saving on the
Kelly filter, if you were changing the oil and filter every 25 hours.
Changing the filter that often, I doubt that a 20% reduction in
filter area would make any difference. The problem with clogging a
filter, is that the bypass valve in the filter then opens. Once that
happens, the filter is effectively gone. The oil moves through the
system unfiltered.
< snip >
--
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
David,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>To: "rvlist" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: N4032Q
>Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 08:04:23 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
>I completed the first flight in N4032Q, an RV8A, yesterday at HEF, Manassas
>Regional Airport. Dave Reel - RV8A - 1.2 hours
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices |
--> RV-List message posted by: G McNutt <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Hi Charlie
Educate me, - is filter clogging on a good engine something to actully
consider? I change filters at 50 hours and cut them open for inspection
and have observed that a good engine could probably go 10 or 20 times
longer before there would be any significant amount of contaminate
material to restrict flow through the oil filter pleats (high time 0-470
would block maybe 3% of pleats with carbon). I am also assuming that
when filter pleats are slowly clogging with microscopic size material
the filtering capability would actually increase up to the point where
the bypass valve opens. If the bypass is spring loaded it will crack
open as a function of pressure and only some oil will bypass while much
of it would still pass through the filter pleats up to the point where
they become fully clogged. What am I missing here??
George in Langley BC
--------------------------
Charlie Kuss wrote:
> It's your engine and airplane. I could understand saving on the
>Kelly filter, if you were changing the oil and filter every 25 hours.
>Changing the filter that often, I doubt that a 20% reduction in
>filter area would make any difference. The problem with clogging a
>filter, is that the bypass valve in the filter then opens. Once that
>happens, the filter is effectively gone. The oil moves through the
>system unfiltered.
> I see the same thing with auto manufacturers who specify full
>synthetic motor oil and 10,000 mile oil changes. The oil can go that
>distance. Often, however, the filter will clog much sooner. The
>benefit of using a superior oil is lost, if it's not being filtered
>the last 3-5 thousand miles of each oil change interval. I recommend
>that folks who use synthetic oil/long drain periods, change out the
>oil filter mid way through the extended drain period.
> 50 hours means 50 X 160 mph = 8000 miles. That's a long way to go
>without changing the oil filter.
>Charlie
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> Has anyone put (or seen) an RV-8 Deluxe quadrant (the
> cool black one from Van's) installed in an RV-4? Any
> idea if it will fit well in the same location?
>
> Paul Besing
Should fit fine just like it did in my RV-3...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Cockpit/DSC_0609.jpg
Note that you will need to rivet some angle to the fuselage side so if your
bird is painted you'll need to deal with that.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
Message 19
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| Subject: | lycoming SI 1462, prop oil leak test procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Hi,
Has anyone performed this leak test? It would appear that there are 3 gauges
involved. One is a standalone calibrated oil pressure gauge that's put on the
plate and left there for the whole process. The local automotive shops didn't
have such a gauge rated up to 100 psi. Anyone know where else I might be able
to pick one up "locally" over a typical weekend?
thx,
lucky
do not archive
Hi,
Has anyone performed this leak test? It would appear that there are 3 gauges involved.
One is a standalone calibrated oil pressure gauge that's put on the plate
and left there for the whole process. The local automotive shops didn't have
such a gauge rated up to 100 psi. Anyone know where else I might be able to
pick one up "locally" over a typical weekend?
thx,
lucky
do not archive
Message 20
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| Subject: | Kitplanes, May, Peternel RV-9A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <ibspud@adelphia.net>
For those of you who are not subscribed to Kitplanes, there is a very nice
article on Stan Peternel's flying RV-9A in the May issue.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wing tips |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@comcast.net
I used grommets in each wing rib and wished several times during finishing that
I had used a plastic conduit or some of the flexible conduit that Van's sells.
It would have been much easier to add wires that I forgot about in the initial
installation.
If you do use grommets, be sure to run a continuous loop of strong cord through
them for use in pulling wires through. Keep it there until you are absolutely
certain that you won't need any more wires.
I used a single point ground at the firewall for everything else but I did ground
the lights and strobe power packs to the airframe at the wing tips. I have
had no ground loop issues to deal with so I'd do it that way again.
I have a VOR antenna (Bob Archer's in the right wing tip and it works fine. for
com I'm convinced an external antenna is best for RV's but that's just me.
Mine is belly mounted.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 195 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
>
> Well, I'm almost ready (after far too many years) to rivet wing
> skins. I'm having a problem deciding about something. I haven't
> done anything about making a path for any wires that I may need out
> in the wing tips.
>
> I have a landing light near each wing tip (the duckworks system), so
> I know I'll need to run something for that. And of course, there will
> be position and strobe lights out in the tips.
>
> For these lights, can I just install a grommet in each rib? When I'm
> ready to wire everything, I'd then run the wires through the
> grommets, all bundled together?
>
> I have no idea what size wires I'm going to need for these. Heck, I
> don't even know if it's standard to run ground wires back to the
> battery or if I'm supposed to ground to the airframe. One big
> aluminum wire :-)
>
> Should I anticipate any sort of wing tip antennas? I've heard from
> some guys who have had wing tip antennas that they don't work very
> well. Someone who talked at the MN Wing meeting a few weeks ago
> about his fast airplane said he'd installed wing tip antennas and got
> lousy reception, so he switched to belly-mounted, tapered antennas.
>
> Is this all something that can wait until much later in the process?
> I understand I only should rivet one set of skins (tops or bottoms)
> at this time, doing the other sets much further in the process.
> Would I be cursing myself if I waited on these wiring issues until then?
>
> I know some guys have installed electrical conduit for their wires.
> This seems like unnecessary weight, but maybe it's a better idea than
> grommets.
>
> As you can see, I really don't know what the best plan is for this.
> Comments from those who have gone before are appreciated -- even if
> you just want to say, "I did it this way, and I wouldn't do it that
> way again."
>
> -Joe
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Wires out in the wing tips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DonVS" <dsvs@comcast.net>
I used the flex conduit that Van's sells, works fine. I made the holes a
little larger than speced to ease installation and then used RTV to glue the
conduit in so vibration would not cut it. If you use conduit, make sure
that you put it in a place where it does not get in the way of bucking the
last skin. This skin is hard enough to install without any additional
issues. I also ran return wires for everything. Don
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joseph Larson
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 6:27 AM
Subject: RV-List: Wires out in the wing tips
--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
Well, I'm almost ready (after far too many years) to rivet wing
skins. I'm having a problem deciding about something. I haven't
done anything about making a path for any wires that I may need out
in the wing tips.
I have a landing light near each wing tip (the duckworks system), so
I know I'll need to run something for that. And of course, there will
be position and strobe lights out in the tips.
For these lights, can I just install a grommet in each rib? When I'm
ready to wire everything, I'd then run the wires through the
grommets, all bundled together?
I have no idea what size wires I'm going to need for these. Heck, I
don't even know if it's standard to run ground wires back to the
battery or if I'm supposed to ground to the airframe. One big
aluminum wire :-)
Should I anticipate any sort of wing tip antennas? I've heard from
some guys who have had wing tip antennas that they don't work very
well. Someone who talked at the MN Wing meeting a few weeks ago
about his fast airplane said he'd installed wing tip antennas and got
lousy reception, so he switched to belly-mounted, tapered antennas.
Is this all something that can wait until much later in the process?
I understand I only should rivet one set of skins (tops or bottoms)
at this time, doing the other sets much further in the process.
Would I be cursing myself if I waited on these wiring issues until then?
I know some guys have installed electrical conduit for their wires.
This seems like unnecessary weight, but maybe it's a better idea than
grommets.
As you can see, I really don't know what the best plan is for this.
Comments from those who have gone before are appreciated -- even if
you just want to say, "I did it this way, and I wouldn't do it that
way again."
-Joe
Message 23
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| Subject: | RV-10 IO-540 Motor Mounts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Russell Daves" <dav1111@cox.net>
I traded for a small hole set of IO-540 Motor Mounts from a Rocket builder who
didn't need them. He needed the big hole set.
If anybody needs a set of small hole IO-540 Motor Mounts, make me an offer.
Russ Daves
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 51 Msgs - 03/30/06 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Glen Matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi Kevin-
>I don't see wing bending loads as a major issue, considering how
>people will fly the aircraft when there is fuel in the tip tanks. If
>the wing is designed to take 6gs without tip tanks, surely it can
>easily handle a typical cruise flight load spectrum with fuel in the
>tips. What am I missing?
>
>
I concur with all you have written. However, aside from the instantaneous loading
the wing experiences, there is also the issue of fatigue. Reducing the bending
moments that the center section experiences will increase it's fatigue life.
In all likelihood, and given the way most aspects of RV's are overbuilt, this is
a moot point. Then again we won't know for sure until it's to late. I seem
to recall spar issues cropping up with older -3's that resulted in a mod. Likewise
Be-18's, T-34's, T-6's. Yes, those are all old military aircraft that have
been ridden hard and put away wet. Then again, that's just what they were
designed for. Given that I plan on operating my aircraft for a looong time,
and that to my knowledge RV wings weren't designed for tip tanks, I think considering
the long term effects of operating with tip fuel is in order. As such,
and all other things being equal, using the inboards first can't hurt and might
help.
Regardz-
Glen Matejcek
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "charles heathco" <cheathco@junct.com>
Weekend so probably not the best time to ask, but who is going to sun and fun?
Chas
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
George,
If you are finding very little material in your filter, than by all
means use it up to 50 hours. One thing to bear in mind though. When
you loosen the filter, almost all the oil and most of the foreign
debris drain out of the filter, so your inspection may or may not be
accurate, regarding how much material was actually in the filter. I
suspect that aircraft oil filters do not have the ability to filter
down to 25 microns like automotive filters do. With the larger
clearances on our engines, super fine filtration is not as critical.
If the filter doesn't have to stop these smaller particles, it will
obviously take longer to clog.
Clogging is a relative term. The back pressure of the oil
(especially if you use straight weight oil and the oil is cold, such
as on initial start up) will open the bypass valve at much less than
fully clogged. At what percentage point this would occur, I don't
know. Is Doug Rosendahl still on this list? Doug is a petroleum
engineer and could answer these questions better.
If the bypass valve opens, a great deal of the oil will pass
through unfiltered. Path of least resistance, ya know.
Charlie
>--> RV-List message posted by: G McNutt <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
>
>
>Hi Charlie
>
>Educate me, - is filter clogging on a good engine something to actully
>consider? I change filters at 50 hours and cut them open for inspection
>and have observed that a good engine could probably go 10 or 20 times
>longer before there would be any significant amount of contaminate
>material to restrict flow through the oil filter pleats (high time 0-470
>would block maybe 3% of pleats with carbon). I am also assuming that
>when filter pleats are slowly clogging with microscopic size material
>the filtering capability would actually increase up to the point where
>the bypass valve opens. If the bypass is spring loaded it will crack
>open as a function of pressure and only some oil will bypass while much
>of it would still pass through the filter pleats up to the point where
>they become fully clogged. What am I missing here??
>
>George in Langley BC
>--------------------------
>
>Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> > It's your engine and airplane. I could understand saving on the
> >Kelly filter, if you were changing the oil and filter every 25 hours.
> >Changing the filter that often, I doubt that a 20% reduction in
> >filter area would make any difference. The problem with clogging a
> >filter, is that the bypass valve in the filter then opens. Once that
> >happens, the filter is effectively gone. The oil moves through the
> >system unfiltered.
> > I see the same thing with auto manufacturers who specify full
> >synthetic motor oil and 10,000 mile oil changes. The oil can go that
> >distance. Often, however, the filter will clog much sooner. The
> >benefit of using a superior oil is lost, if it's not being filtered
> >the last 3-5 thousand miles of each oil change interval. I recommend
> >that folks who use synthetic oil/long drain periods, change out the
> >oil filter mid way through the extended drain period.
> > 50 hours means 50 X 160 mph = 8000 miles. That's a long way to go
> >without changing the oil filter.
> >Charlie
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: RV-12 question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
ELSA isn't going to go away but the sub-qualifications under ELA that covers
existing aircraft may change. We will just have to wait and see how it goes
and how to manage/manipulate it.
Mike Robertson
>From: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-12 question
>Date: Thu, 30 Mar 2006 10:39:40 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com>
>
>
>mrobert569(at)hotmail.com wrote:
> > Through January 2008 there is latitude because we can get it in under
>the
> > "existing aircraft" category. But all these existing aircraft are
>supposed
> > to be certificated prior to January 2008. After that there is a serious
> > question. I think there will be some way to handle it but in what form
>I do
> > not know at this time.
> >
> > Mike Robertson
> >
> >
>
>Are you saying that after 2008 there will be no E-LSA?
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25349#25349
>
>
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Will be there all week- plane will be in homebuilt corral & me camping in
showplane or homebuilt area, come by & say howdee!
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
Wed-Fri will hang out in Margaritaville (now some cafe thing, dangit!) with
RV-list sign on end of table @ 5:30 for anyone wanting to come by & buy me a
marg! Best thing to do during the airshow anyway...
Mark - digging out anti-skeeter & sun stuff - do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle quadrant knobs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 3/31/2006 5:14:23 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
RGray67968@aol.com writes:
Anybody know where to buy the round knobs for a throttle quadrant....any
color will do right about now.
====================
I would guess that Carr-Lane, McMaster-Carr or MSC would carry these.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 777hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
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