Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:36 AM - Re: S & N Fun (Dana Overall)
2. 03:36 AM - Communication Loss (DAVID REEL)
3. 03:54 AM - Re: Re: Looking for an engine (Dana Overall)
4. 04:20 AM - Re: S & N Fun (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
5. 05:20 AM - Re: Throttle quadrant knobs (RGray67968@aol.com)
6. 05:25 AM - Re: S & N Fun (linn Walters)
7. 05:27 AM - Re: S & N Fun (Charles Rowbotham)
8. 06:02 AM - Garmin hand held GPS (Dale Ensing)
9. 06:07 AM - Re: lycoming SI 1462, prop oil leak test procedure (Larry Bowen)
10. 06:28 AM - Re: S & N Fun (Mickey Coggins)
11. 08:53 AM - Re: Tip tanks (StephenN570Z)
12. 08:53 AM - Re: Communication Loss (Mark Rose)
13. 09:12 AM - Re: Re: Tip tanks (Konrad L. Werner)
14. 10:28 AM - Re: Wires out in the wingtips (pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper))
15. 01:37 PM - Wanted - oil dip stick. (Emrath)
16. 01:38 PM - Re: Communication Loss (Tom Barnes)
17. 01:45 PM - Matronics Email List Wiki! (Matt Dralle)
18. 01:50 PM - Re: Wanted - oil dip stick. (Vanremog@aol.com)
19. 03:25 PM - aeroquip (Sportypilot)
20. 04:02 PM - Re: aeroquip (Jack Blomgren)
21. 04:43 PM - Re: Re: Tip tanks (Bob Barrow)
22. 04:46 PM - Re: Re: Tip tanks (Bob Barrow)
23. 04:49 PM - Re: aeroquip (linn Walters)
24. 04:51 PM - Re: Re: Wires out in the wingtips (Charlie England)
25. 05:04 PM - Re: Wanted - oil dip stick. (Darrell Reiley)
26. 05:47 PM - Re: aeroquip (Charlie Kuss)
27. 06:03 PM - Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices (charles heathco)
28. 06:18 PM - Re: aeroquip (Larry Bowen)
29. 06:34 PM - Re: aeroquip (linn Walters)
30. 07:04 PM - Re: Tip tanks (StephenN570Z)
31. 07:27 PM - Re: aeroquip (Charlie Kuss)
32. 08:19 PM - Re: Re: Tip tanks (Mannan J. Thomason)
33. 11:33 PM - Official RV-List Usage Guidelines (Matt Dralle)
34. 11:33 PM - Official RV-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Will be there all week- plane will be in homebuilt corral & me camping in
>showplane or homebuilt area, come by & say howdee!
>
>http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/
Elaine & I will be pulling in on Weds to stay until Sat. Cell 859 625-2844
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Communication Loss |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
On my second test flight yesterday, The control tower's transmission during my
initial climb was so weak I could just barely tell someone had transmitted. I
was climbing with the tower at my back and at a pretty steep angle due to other
problems. Except during this climb phase, I heard the tower loud and clear.
I'm theorizing that my comm antenna, which is mounted beneath the left wing/fuselage
joint so that about a half foot of the bent antenna protrudes behind
the left flap on my RV8A, was blocked by the wing/fuselage from receiving the
tower's signal. So, I have two questions.
First, have others had this sort of problem? If so, what was the remedy?
Second, how do you feel about limiting the pitch and roll angles during departure/arrival
to mitigate such a problem?
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for an engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I've held off posting the specifics on how I am "assembling" my engine but
since I've got 8 boxes delivered yesterday here goes:
I looked around ebay, bid on one, checked with the various Lyclones, checked
with the salvage yards, checked with the "basement builders" then found the
guy I bought from. I liked the Lyclones but by the time I bought a C/S prop
I was going to 7-8K over what I wanted to spend. The salvage yards,
Wentworth in particular, offered a guarantee on the crank and case. I
however would have to tear the engine down then put it back together. Hum.
The basement builders route was an experience. It went all the way from,
"Nope don't know what the designation is, it was buiilt in Romania......they
do great work there", "You know this is not certified, you know how much it
costs to have all those internal parts brought to spec", to "been sitting
here for 5 years so it should be just as good as it was when I tucked it
away in the garage". I decided I would have to disassemble the engines so
why not start with a disassembled one anyway. I have built up two engines
already, so sorry you A & Ps, with a few special tools it "ain't" rocket
science. If you can build an RV, it is my opinion you can build an engine
up.
So..I ended up going with Doug Works in Tulsa 1 918 313 5487. Doug is a
concrete contractor who does engines on the side. He does not build them
but accumulates the parts you want in any configuration you desire. I am
getting from him the total package including prop. Case is back from the
shop, crank ended up going to ECI and came back .003, I'll take that, NEW
Titan ECI cylinders, pistons and works, sump, tubes, remanufactured MA 4 5
model 10 5193 carb (fits O 360 A!A) , new slick 4370, 4373 mags, harness,
prop gov., alternator, newer style overhauled prop hub and 7776 blades, cam,
yellow tagged tappets, gears, rockers,......the works. I choose to have
Doug pull together the entire package which is above what his "standard"
package is so my cost would not be a comparative number, but I am so under
what I would have spent on a Lyclone but under, with the prop included of
what I was going to spend on a basement builider. I will say the standard
price is set. Give him a call and at least talk to him 1 918 313 5487.
Doug has been very, very forthright in calling, asking questions, getting
approval on overhauls and the likes. He has done what he said he would do
and more importantly WHEN he said he would do it. When I get back from SNF,
I am gong to start an engine assembly page on my website to show........and
be told what I am doing wrong.......but I think you will be pleasantly
surprised at what you get, I am beyond mere satisfied with what I have.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
>From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Looking for an engine
>Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 20:17:15 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
>Bruce Gray wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
> >
> >Unless you're real careful, the last place you want to buy an engine is
>at a
> >salvage yard. Last time I talked with my insurance contacts the insurance
> >carriers that he knew of, were requiring the total destruction on the
> >aircraft that were totaled because of water emersion and lack to
>treatment
> >after they were pulled from the flood. The salvage yard had to crush them
> >with a bulldozer and certify that all parts would never be in the stream
>of
> >commerce again. What a waste.
> >
>
>One of the major underwriters had over a dozen a/c listed on its auction
>site last fall, all saying 'immersed in salt water due to Hurricane
>Katrina'. No mention of any requirement to crush the fruits of your
>winning bid. I certainly wouldn't trust an airframe that had been
>submerged in salt water for several weeks, but I doubt that the
>insurance companies care as long as they have a contract signed by the
>purchaser stating that he's aware of the history of the plane. (I doubt
>you could get them to insure it, though...)
>
>As others will attest, lots of people get excellent engines from salvage
>yards. It obviously carries some risk, but buying a used a/c is almost
>as big a crap shoot, since you have no way of knowing its real history
>unless you are familiar with the plane. Log books don't tell you any
>more about an engine on a flying a/c than they do about a salvage
>engine. The key, for me would be to buy from a reputable yard & get
>everything in writing.
>
>Charlie
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
In a message dated 3/31/2006 9:40:17 P.M. Central Standard Time,
cheathco@junct.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "charles heathco" <cheathco@junct.com>
Weekend so probably not the best time to ask, but who is going to sun and
fun? Chas
Chas, we have 2 birds leaving Wed. 0700 to SnF. Returning Sat. Glad to
have anyone join us.
Doug Preston
RV-7 N731RV
C-205-873-2955
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Throttle quadrant knobs |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Thanks to all for the info on the throttle quadrant knobs.
As it turns out....our good friend Dan Checkoway has a few 'extra' knobs and
is sending them my way.......what a guy....thanks big time Dan!!
Rick Gray in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm - RV6 Sold, RV8 project completed, RV4
painted and final assy this week, RV10 & F1 Rocket under construction.
_http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/_
(http://rv6rick.tripod.com/ohiovalleyrvators/)
do not archive
Anybody know where to buy the round knobs for a throttle quadrant....any
color will do right about now.
====================
I would guess that Carr-Lane, McMaster-Carr or MSC would carry these.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 777hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
As long as y'all don't want to beat me to death, I'l admit to being
there all week. My volunteer spot is the aerobatics tent just outside
the fence on the flightline ----- you go past it on the way to the
warbirds ramp. Come in and say 'hi'. If I'm not there (frequently
happens :-) ) and you're coming by later, leave a time and I'll hang around.
Linn
do not archive
charles heathco wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "charles heathco" <cheathco@junct.com> :-
>
>Weekend so probably not the best time to ask, but who is going to sun and fun?
Chas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Chas,
I'm flying in on Sunday and plan to be there throughout the week. I'm doing
a forum on "Panel and Cockpit Design" on Tue/Wed/Thur @ 9 am.
I also plan to be at the Wed "RV-List" get together at Aces Cafe at 5 pm
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "charles heathco" <cheathco@junct.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: S & N Fun
>Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 21:35:21 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "charles heathco" <cheathco@junct.com>
>
>Weekend so probably not the best time to ask, but who is going to sun and
>fun? Chas
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Garmin hand held GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
FWIW
The fix for a problem others may encounter.........
Today, when I attempted to remove the remote antenna from my Garmin 295, so that
I could update the data base, the BNC connector rotating slide would not turn
to release the antenna. It appeared to be jammed somehow. The antenna connector
sits in a recess on the back of the GPS body but I could see that the rotating
slide was tight up against the case mounted portion. It did not allow the
rotating slide to be pushed inward to rotate and disengage. The whole connector
assemble also seemed to be too loose in the GPS body which added to the frustration
but was the clue to the solution.The problem turned out to be the ring
nut that holds the mounted portion of the BNC connector in the GPS body. The
ring nut had backed off and was now tight up against the rotating slider and
not allowing it to slide inward.
The fix.......The ring nut has two slots, 180 degrees apart, on its outer edge
. I was able to get a very small screwdriver into the slots and turn the ring
nut tight against the case body thus allowing the slider sleeve to be pushed in
and rotated.
Dale Ensing
RV6A N118DE
Message 9
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| Subject: | lycoming SI 1462, prop oil leak test procedure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I think prop shops have a stand that can be used for this. What problem are
you chasing?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: lucky [mailto:luckymacy@comcast.net]
> Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 6:55 PM
> To: RV-List; lycoming; Larry Bowen
> Subject: RV-List: lycoming SI 1462, prop oil leak test procedure
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> Hi,
> Has anyone performed this leak test? It would appear that
> there are 3 gauges involved. One is a standalone calibrated
> oil pressure gauge that's put on the plate and left there for
> the whole process. The local automotive shops didn't have
> such a gauge rated up to 100 psi. Anyone know where else I
> might be able to pick one up "locally" over a typical weekend?
> thx,
> lucky
> do not archive
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
>
>
>
> Has anyone performed this leak test? It would appear that
> there are 3 gauges involved. One is a standalone calibrated
> oil pressure gauge that's put on the plate and left there for
> the whole process. The local automotive shops didn't have
> such a gauge rated up to 100 psi. Anyone know where else I
> might be able to pick one up "locally" over a typical weekend?
>
>
>
>
> thx,
>
>
>
>
> lucky
>
>
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Chuck,
Can you send me your hints and tips? I'm about to redo my
panel, and I can use all the help I can get!
Thanks,
Mickey
Charles Rowbotham wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>
> Chas,
>
> I'm flying in on Sunday and plan to be there throughout the week. I'm doing
> a forum on "Panel and Cockpit Design" on Tue/Wed/Thur @ 9 am.
>
> I also plan to be at the Wed "RV-List" get together at Aces Cafe at 5 pm
>
> Chuck Rowbotham
> RV-8A
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn@gmail.com>
I am about to pick up my JJ tip tanks from Vans but have the wings finished & plumbed
for them. I have copied the installation of a RV6 owner in Australia who
has successfully used this system. The only vent in the system is in the tip
tank. The dihedral of the wing along with the 1 -2 psi from the forward facing
vent pressurise the tip which forces fuel from the tips into the outboard leading
edge tank, this in turn feeds the inboard leading edge tanks. Andair check
valves prevent any back flow & most of the time you are flying with the aux
tanks empty. As soon as there is space in the mains fuel is drawn into them using
a combination of negative pressure from the fuel pump, dihedral & + pressure
from the fuel vent. Simple, effective, no pumps to go wrong & completely automatic.
Thats what I am hoping anyway. My only concern is that a blocked vent
will cut of fuel, but that will happen in the standard system. One thing I am
considering is whether to run an aux vent feed to the tips from the HP side
of the plenum or the warm side of the cowling as any ice build up on the vent
will spoil my day. I have written up the install of the ob leading edge tanks
if anyone wants it. Oh by the way Ken Scott saw what I was doing a few months
back & thought the idea of o/b l/e tanks are a bad idea.
hth Stephen
N570Z
Fuse almost finished
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25772#25772
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Communication Loss |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose" <av8er2@mcleodusa.net>
Dave, My antenna is mounted just off center below the pilot seat, and I have
had no trouble in turns or climb out or even on the ground behind hangers. I
would suspect it is some other problem? My antenna is a bent whip. Mark Rose
N137MR 44Hrs. RV8A Hope this will help.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 3:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Communication Loss
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> On my second test flight yesterday, The control tower's transmission
> during my initial climb was so weak I could just barely tell someone had
> transmitted. I was climbing with the tower at my back and at a pretty
> steep angle due to other problems. Except during this climb phase, I
> heard the tower loud and clear. I'm theorizing that my comm antenna,
> which is mounted beneath the left wing/fuselage joint so that about a half
> foot of the bent antenna protrudes behind the left flap on my RV8A, was
> blocked by the wing/fuselage from receiving the tower's signal. So, I
> have two questions.
>
> First, have others had this sort of problem? If so, what was the remedy?
>
> Second, how do you feel about limiting the pitch and roll angles during
> departure/arrival to mitigate such a problem?
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
>
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad L. Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Dear Stephen,
>>>Oh by the way Ken Scott saw what I was doing a few months back & thought the
idea of o/b l/e tanks are a bad idea.<<<
Why did Ken Scott think it was a bad idea???
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: StephenN570Z
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 9:50 AM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Tip tanks
--> RV-List message posted by: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn@gmail.com>
I am about to pick up my JJ tip tanks from Vans but have the wings finished &
plumbed for them. I have copied the installation of a RV6 owner in Australia
who has successfully used this system. The only vent in the system is in the tip
tank. The dihedral of the wing along with the 1 -2 psi from the forward facing
vent pressurise the tip which forces fuel from the tips into the outboard
leading edge tank, this in turn feeds the inboard leading edge tanks. Andair check
valves prevent any back flow & most of the time you are flying with the aux
tanks empty. As soon as there is space in the mains fuel is drawn into them
using a combination of negative pressure from the fuel pump, dihedral & + pressure
from the fuel vent. Simple, effective, no pumps to go wrong & completely
automatic. Thats what I am hoping anyway. My only concern is that a blocked vent
will cut of fuel, but that will happen in the standard system. One thing I
am considering is whether to run an aux vent feed to !
the tips from the HP side of the plenum or the warm side of the cowling as any
ice build up on the vent will spoil my day. I have written up the install of
the ob leading edge tanks if anyone wants it.
Oh by the way Ken Scott saw what I was doing a few months back & thought the
idea of o/b l/e tanks are a bad idea.
hth Stephen
N570Z
Fuse almost finished
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=3D25772#25772
Message 14
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Cc: jpl@showpage.org
| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wingtips |
--> RV-List message posted by: pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
I ran some white frosted tubing from Orchard Supply Hardware Store that
is intended for refrigerator water supply or some such. It is 5/8"
diameter and fairly rigid but can be easily bent. I used snap grommets,
but had to ream them out to make the hose slip through easily. I think
the snap grommets are 3/4 with an "alleged" 5/8 inner diameter.
I followed someone's post that it is better to run the wiring conduit
closer to the upper skin to make riveting on the lower skin later on
easier. After the upper skin is riveted, the hose can be threaded
through the wing ribs. It will be out of the way of the later more
limited access lower skin riveting. The plastic/vinyl or poly-whatever
substance tubing is sturdy enough that it will not sag down in hot
weather and interfere with the aileron controls.
I like the semi-flexible tubing better than the rigid pvc sprinkler pipe
some have used. A string with a rag tied to it will shoot right through
the tubing with a vacuum cleaner held to the other end for fishing wires
later on. I left a string in each conduit tube with a metal washer tied
to each end when I stored my wings away.
Pete Cowper
RV8 #81139
Visalia, CA
Message 15
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| Subject: | Wanted - oil dip stick. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
I am searching for an oil dip stick, Lycoming calls this a "Gage assy., oil
level" in my parts book. I've been advised there are two styles of these,
one with a small diameter screw in top and one that is a larger diameter. I
am in need of the style with the smaller diameter top. I would think that
engine re-builders might have one laying around from a parted out engine
that I may be serviceable Anyone know of a possible source for a used one of
these?
Marty RV-6A completing.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Communication Loss |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Barnes" <skytop@megsinet.net>
Dave,
The same thing happened to me on about my second flight too. Turned out
to be the coax came loose at the antenna. I hadn't twisted it enough to
"lock". It has worked flawlessly since.
Tom Barnes -6 200+ hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 5:37 AM
Subject: RV-List: Communication Loss
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> On my second test flight yesterday, The control tower's transmission
during my initial climb was so weak I could just barely tell someone had
transmitted. I was climbing with the tower at my back and at a pretty steep
angle due to other problems. Except during this climb phase, I heard the
tower loud and clear. I'm theorizing that my comm antenna, which is mounted
beneath the left wing/fuselage joint so that about a half foot of the bent
antenna protrudes behind the left flap on my RV8A, was blocked by the
wing/fuselage from receiving the tower's signal. So, I have two questions.
>
> First, have others had this sort of problem? If so, what was the remedy?
>
> Second, how do you feel about limiting the pitch and roll angles during
departure/arrival to mitigate such a problem?
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Matronics Email List Wiki! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
I have added a new feature to the Email List Forums at Matronics called a Wiki. What's "Wiki" you ask? A Wiki is a website. You go to it and browse just like you would any other web site. The difference is, you can change it. You can put anything you want on this web site without having to be a web designer or even being the owner. You can write a new page just like writing an email message on the BBS. You don't need to send it off to anyone to install on the site. It is kind of like a Blog (weblog) in which anyone can post. Here is a great page on where the term Wiki came from and what it means in the context of a website: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wiki
So on to the new Matronics Email List Wiki... I've created this site for anyone
from any of the Email Lists to use. I envision that there are a great many
things that can be added to this new Wiki since there are always new and interesting
tidbits of useful information traversing the Lists.
Off the main Matronics Email List Wiki page, you will find a link called "Community
Portal". Here you will find more links to stubs for all the various Lists
found at Matronics (and a few other links). Brian Lloyd and others from the
Yak-List have already begun adding content in a number of areas. Bob Nuckolls
of AeroElectric fame has added a great article on "Ageing Aircraft".
I have discussed the new Matronics Email List Wiki with Tedd McHenry and Dwight Frye of the RV Wiki Site and they have decided to merge their site over onto the new Matronics Wiki server giving everyone a single source for information on RV building and flying! This migration will begin today and you should be able to find all of the content currently found at www.rvwiki.org moved over to the Matronics Wiki within a few days.
To make edits to the Matronics Wiki, you will need to have a login account on the
Matronics Wiki and I have disabled anonymous edits. This protects the Wiki
site from automated spam engines and other nuisances that could compromise the
data at the site.
Signing up for an account is fast and easy and begins by clicking on the "create
an account or log in" link in the upper right hand corner of any page. Note
that you do not have to have a login or be logged in to view any of the content.
The Matronics Email List Wiki is YOUR Wiki! It is only as useful as the content
found within. The concept of the Wiki is that the people the use it and update
it. If you've got an interesting procedure for doing something, MAKE A WIKI
PAGE ON IT! You can even upload pictures. Saw something interesting at a
flyin? MAKE A WIKI PAGE ON IT! Don't be shy, this is YOUR site to share information
with others with similar interests.
Here is a users guide on using the Wiki implemented at Matronics: http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents This gives a lot of great information on how to get started editing pages.
And finally, here is the URL for the Matronics Email List Wiki:
http://wiki.matronics.com
Brian Lloyd has written an excellent introduction to Wikis on the front page.
I encourage you to read it over, then drill into the "Community Portal" and HAVE
FUN!!
Best regards,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Wanted - oil dip stick. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 4/1/2006 1:38:54 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
emrath@comcast.net writes:
I would think that
engine re-builders might have one laying around from a parted out engine
that I may be serviceable Anyone know of a possible source for a used one of
these?
==========================================
Faeth Aircraft salvage would be a reasonable choice.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 777hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
I have a quick question, I have steel aeroquip hose fittings on my engine
oil in and out fittings and
wanted to know if the aluminum hose fittings will work ok with the steel
fittings.. and also steel on the
oil cooler 7 row vans type.. or will this cause problems ? they are both the
same brand and degree..
just one is half is steel and the hose fitting is aluminum.. any ideas ?
Danny..
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Danny,
No known problem mixing al and steel oil fittings as long as your respect
torque limits... my humble opinion. You may be thinking of dissimilar metal
problems mating copper and aluminum in electrical circuits.
Jack, N-8VZ
>From: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: aeroquip
>Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2006 17:18:35 -0600
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10@hotmail.com>
Hi Stephen, I would imagine that if you fully fill your inboard tank(s) and
you have no vent in them then the fuel will have nowhere to go when it
expands while the plane is sitting out in the sun. If it is stopped from
going back to the tips by an Andair one-way valve the expansion could quite
probably do serious damage to your inboard tank(s). The way to overcome this
would be to eliminate the one-way valve..but I do not recommend that either
as it might allow fuel to run back to the tips in flight. I think you might
need a vent in the inboard tank(s). I'd put it where the plans say....plenty
of warm air to keep it ice free in that location so it would probably be a
safer bet than one vent out on the tip.
>From: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn@gmail.com>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Tip tanks
>Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2006 08:50:24 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn@gmail.com>
>
>I am about to pick up my JJ tip tanks from Vans but have the wings finished
>& plumbed for them. I have copied the installation of a RV6 owner in
>Australia who has successfully used this system. The only vent in the
>system is in the tip tank. The dihedral of the wing along with the 1 -2 psi
>from the forward facing vent pressurise the tip which forces fuel from the
>tips into the outboard leading edge tank, this in turn feeds the inboard
>leading edge tanks. Andair check valves prevent any back flow & most of the
>time you are flying with the aux tanks empty. As soon as there is space in
>the mains fuel is drawn into them using a combination of negative pressure
>from the fuel pump, dihedral & + pressure from the fuel vent. Simple,
>effective, no pumps to go wrong & completely automatic. Thats what I am
>hoping anyway. My only concern is that a blocked vent will cut of fuel, but
>that will happen in the standard system. One thing I am considering is
>whether to run an aux vent feed to !
> the tips from the HP side of the plenum or the warm side of the cowling
>as any ice build up on the vent will spoil my day. I have written up the
>install of the ob leading edge tanks if anyone wants it. Oh by the way Ken
>Scott saw what I was doing a few months back & thought the idea of o/b l/e
>tanks are a bad idea.
>
>hth Stephen
>N570Z
>Fuse almost finished
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25772#25772
>
>
New year, new job there's more than 100,00 jobs at SEEK
http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fninemsn%2Eseek%2Ecom%2Eau&_t=752315885&_r=Jan05_tagline&_m=EXT
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10@hotmail.com>
I contacted Vans 18 months ago and they said then that they were no longer
selling the Jon Johanson tip tanks. They said they had decided to stop
selling them because they had not tested them. So I am very surprised that
you are getting them from Vans now. Perhaps you are buying them directly
from Jon but they are being trans-shipped via Vans. Would you please advise.
>From: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn@gmail.com>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Tip tanks
>Date: Sat, 1 Apr 2006 08:50:24 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn@gmail.com>
>
>I am about to pick up my JJ tip tanks from Vans but have the wings finished
>& plumbed for them. I have copied the installation of a RV6 owner in
>Australia who has successfully used this system. The only vent in the
>system is in the tip tank. The dihedral of the wing along with the 1 -2 psi
>from the forward facing vent pressurise the tip which forces fuel from the
>tips into the outboard leading edge tank, this in turn feeds the inboard
>leading edge tanks. Andair check valves prevent any back flow & most of the
>time you are flying with the aux tanks empty. As soon as there is space in
>the mains fuel is drawn into them using a combination of negative pressure
>from the fuel pump, dihedral & + pressure from the fuel vent. Simple,
>effective, no pumps to go wrong & completely automatic. Thats what I am
>hoping anyway. My only concern is that a blocked vent will cut of fuel, but
>that will happen in the standard system. One thing I am considering is
>whether to run an aux vent feed to !
> the tips from the HP side of the plenum or the warm side of the cowling
>as any ice build up on the vent will spoil my day. I have written up the
>install of the ob leading edge tanks if anyone wants it. Oh by the way Ken
>Scott saw what I was doing a few months back & thought the idea of o/b l/e
>tanks are a bad idea.
>
>hth Stephen
>N570Z
>Fuse almost finished
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25772#25772
>
>
Want 1c text 24/7? Click here for details
http://a.ninemsn.com.au/b.aspx?URL=http%3A%2F%2Fadsfac%2Enet%2Flink%2Easp%3Fcc%3DTEL185%2E19163%2E0%26clk%3D1%26creativeID%3D29997&_t=753375536&_m=EXT
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
AFAIK, the only problem occurs with crossthreading ..... easy to do with
steel fittings and aluminum nuts. The prime reason for using steel
under the cowl is it's higher melting point in case of a fire in the
cowl. I'm not a purist here either .... I've used whatever I had on
hand to get the job done.
Linn
do not archive
Sportypilot wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
>
>I have a quick question, I have steel aeroquip hose fittings on my engine
>oil in and out fittings and
>wanted to know if the aluminum hose fittings will work ok with the steel
>fittings.. and also steel on the
>oil cooler 7 row vans type.. or will this cause problems ? they are both the
>same brand and degree..
>just one is half is steel and the hose fitting is aluminum.. any ideas ?
>
>
>Danny..
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wires out in the wingtips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Pete Cowper wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: pcowper@webtv.net (Pete Cowper)
>
>I ran some white frosted tubing from Orchard Supply Hardware Store that
>is intended for refrigerator water supply or some such. It is 5/8"
>diameter and fairly rigid but can be easily bent. I used snap grommets,
>but had to ream them out to make the hose slip through easily. I think
>the snap grommets are 3/4 with an "alleged" 5/8 inner diameter.
>
>I followed someone's post that it is better to run the wiring conduit
>closer to the upper skin to make riveting on the lower skin later on
>easier. After the upper skin is riveted, the hose can be threaded
>through the wing ribs. It will be out of the way of the later more
>limited access lower skin riveting. The plastic/vinyl or poly-whatever
>substance tubing is sturdy enough that it will not sag down in hot
>weather and interfere with the aileron controls.
>
>I like the semi-flexible tubing better than the rigid pvc sprinkler pipe
>some have used. A string with a rag tied to it will shoot right through
>the tubing with a vacuum cleaner held to the other end for fishing wires
>later on. I left a string in each conduit tube with a metal washer tied
>to each end when I stored my wings away.
>
>Pete Cowper
>RV8 #81139
>Visalia, CA
>
The best (meaning lightest) & cheapest (~$1 each) idea I've seen was
posted by someone else recently. Use the plastic snap-on covers for
shower curtain rods. Wally World or other 3rd world aviation supply
outlet. They are a little over an inch in dia with a slit down the
entire length. With a 3/4" hole, you just squeeze 'em down slightly &
slide 'em in. Barely measurable loss in dia, also.
I ended up just using 3/4" snap bushings. I wanted a spare path for
future expansion. I weighed the bushings vs. the tubes & it was
something like 2 grams vs. 6 grams & I didn't want the extra weight. :-)
Another idea someone mentioned was the clear tubes used as safety covers
for fluorescent lights. Also good, but heavier (still much lighter than
any kind of regular tubing intended to carry liquids or pressure).
Again, very thin wall so not much loss of wire capacity.
Whatever you use, don't forget the string (twice as long as the wing).
Charlie
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Wanted - oil dip stick. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
I see them on Ebay all the time...
Darrell
Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 4/1/2006 1:38:54 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
emrath@comcast.net writes:
I would think that
engine re-builders might have one laying around from a parted out engine
that I may be serviceable Anyone know of a possible source for a used one of
these?
==========================================
Faeth Aircraft salvage would be a reasonable choice.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 777hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
---------------------------------
Message 26
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Linn,
Steel fittings are used under the cowl more for their resistance to
fatigue. Remember, we have that wet dog named Lycoming sitting up
there, impersonating a paint mixing machine! :-) A cracked aluminum
fitting could get really expensive if an oil or fuel fitting fails in flight.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
>AFAIK, the only problem occurs with crossthreading ..... easy to do with
>steel fittings and aluminum nuts. The prime reason for using steel
>under the cowl is it's higher melting point in case of a fire in the
>cowl. I'm not a purist here either .... I've used whatever I had on
>hand to get the job done.
>Linn
>do not archive
>Sportypilot wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
> >
> >I have a quick question, I have steel aeroquip hose fittings on my engine
> >oil in and out fittings and
> >wanted to know if the aluminum hose fittings will work ok with the steel
> >fittings.. and also steel on the
> >oil cooler 7 row vans type.. or will this cause problems ? they
> are both the
> >same brand and degree..
> >just one is half is steel and the hose fitting is aluminum.. any ideas ?
> >
> >
> >
> >Danny..
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aircraft Tool Supply Oil Filter Prices |
--> RV-List message posted by: "charles heathco" <cheathco@junct.com>
Well for me I change oil and filter every 25 hrs, very cheep insurance. I have
a 2200 hr 0-320 and its tighter than dicks hat band. Charlie Heathco
Message 28
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Mine has worked ok so far. Same setup.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sportypilot [mailto:sportypilot@stx.rr.com]
> Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 6:19 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: aeroquip
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
>
> I have a quick question, I have steel aeroquip hose fittings
> on my engine oil in and out fittings and wanted to know if
> the aluminum hose fittings will work ok with the steel
> fittings.. and also steel on the oil cooler 7 row vans type..
> or will this cause problems ? they are both the same brand
> and degree..
> just one is half is steel and the hose fitting is aluminum..
> any ideas ?
>
>
>
> Danny..
>
>
>
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Valid point, I guess. I've never seen a cracked aluminum fitting (in my
limited experience) due to vibration . I've balanced a few REALLY
out-of-balance props and have seen stress cracks in aluminum and some
steel. The only AN fittings that were cracked came from a gorilla with
a wrench! In one case, there were impressions left in the flat of the
aluminum nut from the wrench.
Linn
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
>Linn,
> Steel fittings are used under the cowl more for their resistance to
>fatigue. Remember, we have that wet dog named Lycoming sitting up
>there, impersonating a paint mixing machine! :-) A cracked aluminum
>fitting could get really expensive if an oil or fuel fitting fails in flight.
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>AFAIK, the only problem occurs with crossthreading ..... easy to do with
>>steel fittings and aluminum nuts. The prime reason for using steel
>>under the cowl is it's higher melting point in case of a fire in the
>>cowl. I'm not a purist here either .... I've used whatever I had on
>>hand to get the job done.
>>Linn
>>do not archive
>>Sportypilot wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
>>>
>>>I have a quick question, I have steel aeroquip hose fittings on my engine
>>>oil in and out fittings and
>>>wanted to know if the aluminum hose fittings will work ok with the steel
>>>fittings.. and also steel on the
>>>oil cooler 7 row vans type.. or will this cause problems ? they
>>>
>>>
>>are both the
>>
>>
>>>same brand and degree..
>>>just one is half is steel and the hose fitting is aluminum.. any ideas ?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>Danny..
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn@gmail.com>
G'day Bob, the problem with having a vent in the mains is that it cancels out the
+ pressure from the tip vent. The alt vent I was thinking about would be plumbed
into the tip tank via a valve in the cockpit, haven't made up my mind yet
but will have to decide soon as am about to close up the wings. You are right
about Vans no longer stocking Jons tanks, I am picking them up from Vans but
that is only the shipping point, thought that would be easier & I am there so
often picking up parts I have screwed up.
As for the earlier comnent asking why KS thought the o/b l/e tanks were a bad idea,
he didn't really say, just muttered darkly & asked me why I didn't just fit
a ferry tank. I told him that I preferred to have the fuel out on the wing
& wanted the space in the cabin for life raft etc. Anyway he shook his head &
walked off. KK also had a look but said nothing, I can understand their position,
lawyer paranoia reigns supreme here, but I'm Australian I don't go in for
that BS, they aren't to know that though. you pays your money.....
Stephen
N570Z
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=25924#25924
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Linn,
Yes, improper installation goes a long way towards ruining aluminum
hydraulic fittings. Actually, most certified aircraft use the steel
fitting on anything that actually goes on the engine or moves with
the engine. Items on the firewall don't shake to much.
Charlie
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
>Valid point, I guess. I've never seen a cracked aluminum fitting (in my
>limited experience) due to vibration . I've balanced a few REALLY
>out-of-balance props and have seen stress cracks in aluminum and some
>steel. The only AN fittings that were cracked came from a gorilla with
>a wrench! In one case, there were impressions left in the flat of the
>aluminum nut from the wrench.
>Linn
>
>
>Charlie Kuss wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> >
> >Linn,
> > Steel fittings are used under the cowl more for their resistance to
> >fatigue. Remember, we have that wet dog named Lycoming sitting up
> >there, impersonating a paint mixing machine! :-) A cracked aluminum
> >fitting could get really expensive if an oil or fuel fitting fails
> in flight.
> >Charlie Kuss
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
> >>
> >>AFAIK, the only problem occurs with crossthreading ..... easy to do with
> >>steel fittings and aluminum nuts. The prime reason for using steel
> >>under the cowl is it's higher melting point in case of a fire in the
> >>cowl. I'm not a purist here either .... I've used whatever I had on
> >>hand to get the job done.
> >>Linn
> >>do not archive
> >>Sportypilot wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Sportypilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
> >>>
> >>>I have a quick question, I have steel aeroquip hose fittings on my engine
> >>>oil in and out fittings and
> >>>wanted to know if the aluminum hose fittings will work ok with the steel
> >>>fittings.. and also steel on the
> >>>oil cooler 7 row vans type.. or will this cause problems ? they
> >>>
> >>>
> >>are both the
> >>
> >>
> >>>same brand and degree..
> >>>just one is half is steel and the hose fitting is aluminum.. any ideas ?
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>Danny..
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mannan J. Thomason" <mannanj@alltel.net>
Have you looked into the way it's done on a Bonanza, Piper Commanche or
similar single engine plane with tip tanks? Why re-invent the wheel when you
can "go to school" on certified products with years of imperical testing.
I'm sure that fuel selector valves, etc. are available.
"Shine" Mannan Thomason
RV-8 N1 61RL "Thursday's Child" Painfully close to flying
----- Original Message -----
From: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 01, 2006 10:00 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Tip tanks
> --> RV-List message posted by: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn@gmail.com>
>
> G'day Bob, the problem with having a vent in the mains is that it cancels
> out the + pressure from the tip vent. The alt vent I was thinking about
> would be plumbed into the tip tank via a valve in the cockpit, haven't
> made up my mind yet but will have to decide soon as am about to close up
> the wings.
Message 33
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| Subject: | Official RV-List Usage Guidelines |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Please read over the RV-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RV-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RV-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Official RV-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Please read over the RV-List Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) below. The
complete RV-List FAQ including the Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
[ Note: This FAQ was designed to be displayed with a fixed width font such as
Courier. Proportional fonts will cause display formatting errors. ]
This FAQ can also be viewed in HTML online at the following address:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
************************************************************
******* LIST POLICIES AND FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS *******
************************************************************
PLEASE READ. This document contains RV-List policies and information
for new and old subscribers. Understanding the RV-List policies will
minimize problems for the Administrator, and will help keep the RV-List
running smoothly for all of us.
****************************************
*** How to Subscribe and Unsubscribe ***
****************************************
Simply go to the Web Page shown below and enter your email address and
select the List(s) that you wish to subscribe or unsubscribed from. You
may also use the handy "Find" function to determine the exact syntax of
your email address as it is subscribed to the List. Please see the
complete instructions at the top of the Web Page for more information.
The Subscribe/Unsubscribe web page is:
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Note that you will receive TWO conformation emails regarding your subsciption
process. The first verifies that your subscription/unsubsciption request
was received, and the second confirms that the process has been completed.
You should receive the first email within a few minutes of your request.
The second conformation will arrive in less than 24 hours. You cannot post
until you receive the second conformation email message.
*****************************
*** How to Post a Message ***
*****************************
Send an email message to:
rv-list@matronics.com
Your message will be redistributed to everyone currently subscribed
to the List.
*****************************************************
*** SPAM Fighter - You Must be Subscribed to Post ***
*****************************************************
When a new post is received by the system, the From: line of the message
is checked and compared against the current subscription list. If the
email address is found, the message is passed on to the List Processor.
If the email address isn't found in the current list of subscribers, it
is dumped. This serves to very effectively thwart 99% of the SPAM that
gets posted to the Lists.
Remember, however, that the syntax of your email address is very important
with regard to the configuration of your email application such as Outlook
or Eudora. For example, the following two email addresses may be
functionally equivalent, but only one would pass the Matronics Email SPAM
test depending on which was syntax was subscribed to the given List:
smith@machine.domain.com
smith@domain.com
Either email address syntax is alright, just be sure that you configure
your email application to match *exactly* the address you've subscibed to
the List.
*****************************************************************
*** Enclosures Stripped Out - Can't Get a Virus From the List ***
*****************************************************************
Any enclosures that are posted to the List will automatically be
stripped off, and ONLY the plain/text portion of the message will be
forwarded to the List.
Please configure your Email application to send Plain Text Only, and
disable any "Quoted Printable" or "HTML" encoding whenever possible.
Because enclosures are stripped out of incoming posts to the List,
the likelihood of getting a virus from the List is extremely small.
If you do receive a message that appears to be from the List, and it
does include a virus, it is very likely that it was sent *directly*
to you from someone on the List who has a virus. This is a specific
kind of virus, and you should try to inform the sender, if possible.
The best protection against viruses is a good virus protection program
such as Norton Antivirus. State of the art in virus protection today's
world gives maximum protection with little or no negative impact on
the computer system. You can't afford to be without a good virus
protection program these days.
Note that some limited enclosure posting is now enabled on a number
of Lists. Allowed types include .jpg, .gif, .txt, .pdf, .xls, and
a few other similar types.
*******************
*** Digest Mode ***
*******************
Each day, starting at 12 midnight PST US, a new 'digest' will be started.
This digest will contain the same information that is currently appended
to the archive file. It has all of the headers except for the "From:"
and "Subject:" lines removed, and includes a message separator consisting
of a line of underscores.
Each day at 23:55 PST US, the day's messages as described above will be
combined and sent as a single message to everyone on the digest email list.
To subscribe to the digest list, use the same subscription web form
described above, and just select the Digest version of the List.
http://www.matronics.com/subscribe
Note that you *can* be subscribed to both the realtime and digest versions
of the List at the same time. This is perfectly acceptable.
Now some caveats:
* Messages sent to "rv-list-digest" will be forwarded to the standard
email list. In other words, you cannot post messages only to the
digest List.
* If you are subscribed to both the regular List and the digest List, you
will receive the realtime postings as well as the digest at the end of
the day.
* If you reply to the digest email, your message will be forwarded to the
normal list associated with the digest. Important Note: Please change
the subject line to reflect the topic of your response! Also, please
*do not include all or most of the digest in your reply*.
****************************
*** List Digest Browser ***
****************************
An archive of all the List Digests can be found online in either plain text
or HTML format. These archives contain the exact Digest that was posted to
the Digest email list on the given day. The Digest Archives can be found
at the following location:
http://www.matronics.com/digest
*****************************************
*** The "DO NOT ARCHIVE" Message Flag ***
*****************************************
At times, your message may concern something that is revelent only to a very
small number of persons or to a limited area, and you may not wish to archive
it. In such a case, simply put the following phrase anywhere in the
message:
do not archive
Your message will not be appended to the archive, but will be sent to List
email distribution as normal.
**********************************************
***** READ THIS - Automatic Unsubscribes *****
**********************************************
Note that if your email address begins to cause problems such as bounced
email, mailbox is filled, or any other errors, your address will be promptly
removed from the List. If you discover that you are no longer receiving
messages from the RV-List, go to the following Web page, and look
for your email address and a possible reason for your removal.
The Matronics Email List uses utility called the "Email Weasel" that
automatically looks though the day's bounced email for addresses that
caused problems due to common things like "user is unknown", "mailbox
full", etc. If the Email Weasel removes your email address from the
Lists you will find record of it at the following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/unsubscribed
If the problem listed on the web site above has been resolved, please feel
free to resubscribe to the Lists of your choice.
*******************************
*** List Member Information ***
*******************************
If you have not done so already, please email me your phone numbers and
paper mail address in the following format:
smith@somehost.com
Joe Smith
123 Airport Lane
Tower, CA 91234-1234
098-765-1234 w
123-456-7890 h
Please forward this information to the following email address:
requests@matronics.com
I have a file of such things, that I typically use to contact you when
there are problems with your email address. The information will NOT
be used for any other commercial purpose.
****************************************
*** Realtime Web Email List Browsing ***
****************************************
Recent messages posted to the RV-List are also made available on
the Web for realtime browsing. Seven days worth of back postings are
available with this feature. The messages can be sorted by Subject,
Author, Date, or Message Thread. The Realtime List Browser indexes are
updated twice per hour at xx:15 and xx:45. You can also reply to a message
or start a new message directly from the List Browser Interface (coming soon).
You do not have to be subscribed to the given list to use the List
Browser Interface in view-mode.
http://www.matronics.com/browselist/rv-list
*******************************************
*** Web Forums Bulletin Board Interface ***
*******************************************
A phpBB BBS web Forums front end is available for all RV-List content.
content. The Forums contain all of the same content available via the email
distribution and found on the various archive viewing formats such as the
List Browse, etc. Any posts on the web Forums will be cross posted to the
respective email List, and posts to the Email List will be cross posted to
the web Forums.
You may view all List content on the Forums without any special login.
If you wish to post a message via the Web Forum interface, however, you
will need to Register. This is a simple process that takes only a few
minutes. A link to the Registration page can be found at the top of the
main web Forums page. Note that registering on the Forum web site also
enables you to send email posts to the Lists as well. You will also need to
Subscribe to the respective Email List as described above to receive the
Email Distribution of the List, however.
The Matroincs Email List Web BBS Forums can be found at the following URL:
http://forums.matronics.com
*********************************
*** Matronics Email List Wiki ***
*********************************
In an attempt to make it easy to store and find structured and often accessed
information, Matronics has installed a Wiki at:
http://wiki.matronics.com
The Wiki allows individuals to create web pages to contain useful information
for other users of the mailing lists and web site. Unlike an ordinary web page
where the content needs to be submitted to Matronics for inclusion, the Wiki
permits the users to construct their own pages and have them visible immediately.
While constructing pages for the Wiki is not difficult, some may not be
comfortable building pages. In that case, simply prepare the text and any
images and email it to:
wiki-support@matronics.com
One of the volunteers on that list will take your submission and construct
a Wiki page for you.
Often someone produces a particularly useful posting in email one one of the
Lists that would be of general interest. In that case Matronics may take that
post and convert it into a Wiki page.
*********************
*** List Archives ***
*********************
A file containing of all of the previous postings to the RV-List is
available on line. The archive file information is available via the
Web and FTP in a number of forms. Each are briefly described below:
* RV-List.FAQ
- Latest version of the RV-List Frequently Asked Question
page (this document).
* RV-Archive.digest.complete
- Complete file with most of the email header info removed and
page breaks inserted between messages.
* RV-Archive.digest.vol-??
- Same as the file above, but broken up into small sections that
can more easily handled.
* RV-Archive.digest.complete.zip
- Same as the RV-Archive.digest.complete file above, but
in PKZIP format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
* RV-Archive.digest.complete.Z
- Same as the RV-Archive.digest.complete file above, but in
UNIX compress format. Use "binary" data transfer methods.
Download Via FTP
----------------
The archive file is available via anonymous FTP from ftp.matronics.com
in the "/pub/Archives" directory. It is updated daily and can be found in
a number of formats as described above. (All filenames are case sensitive.)
ftp://ftp.matronics.com/pub/Archives
Download Via Web
----------------
The archives are also available via a web listing. These can be found
toward the bottom of the following web page:
http://www.matronics.com/archives
******************************************
*** Complete List Web Archive Browsing ***
******************************************
All messages posted to the RV-List are also available using the
Email List Archive Browsing feature. With this utility, all messages
in the List are indexed, and individual sub-archives can be browsed.
http://www.matronics.com/archive/archive-index.cgi?RV
*****************************************
**** High-Speed Archive Search Engine ***
*****************************************
You can use the custom, high-performance Matronics Email List Search Engine
to quickly locate and browse any messages that have been posted to the
List. The Engine allows the user to easily search any of the currently
available List archives.
http://www.matronics.com/search
****************************
*** File and Photo Share ***
****************************
With the Matronics Email List File and Photo Share you can share pictures
and other data with members of the List without having to forward a
copy of it to everyone. To share your Files and Photos, simply email
them to:
pictures@matronics.com
!! ==> Please including the following information with each submission:
1) Email Lists that they are related to.
2) Your Full Name.
3) Your Email Address.
4) One line Subject description.
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic.
6-x) One-line Description of each photo or file
Prior to public availability of the files and photos, each will be scanned
for viruses. Please also note that the process of making the files and
photos available on the web site is a pseudo-manual process, and I try to
process them every few days.
Following the availability of the new Photoshare, an email message will be
sent to the Email Lists enumerated in 1) above indicating that the new
Share is available and what the direct URL to it is.
For a current list of available Photoshares, have a look at the Main
Index Page:
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
**************************
*** List Archive CDROM ***
**************************
A complete Matronics Email List Archive CD is available that contains
all of the archives since the beginning of each of the Lists. The archives
for all of the Lists are included on the CD along with a freeware search
engine written by a list member. The CD is burned the day you order it
and will contain archive received up to the last minute. They make
great gifts!
http://www.matronics.com/ArchiveCDROM
**********************************
*** List Support Contributions ***
**********************************
The Matronics Lists are run *completely* through the support of it members.
You won't find any PopUpAds, flashing Banner ads, or any other form of
annoying commercialism on either the Email Messages or the List web pages
associated with the Matronics Email Lists. Every year during November
I run a low-key, low-pressure "Fund Raiser" where, throughout the month,
I ask List members to make a Contribution in any amount with which they
are comfortable.
I will often offer free gifts with certain contribution levels during the
Fund Raiser to increase the participation. The gifts are usually donated
by companies that are themselves List members.
Your Contributions go directly to supporting the operation of the Lists
including the high-speed, business-class Internet connection, server
system hardware and software upgrades, and to partially offset the many
many hours I spend running, maintaining, upgrading, and developing the
variety of services found here.
Generally Contributions range from $20 to $100 and are completely voluntary
and non-compulsory. I ask only that if person enjoys the Lists and obtains
value from them, that they make a Contribution of equal magnitude.
Contributions are accepted throughout the year, and if you've just
subscribed, feel free to make a Contribution when you've settled in.
The website for making SSL Secure Contributions is listed below. There are
a variety of payment methods including Visa and MasterCard, PayPal, and
sending a personal check.
If you enjoy and value the List, won't you make a Contribution today to
support its continued operation?
http://www.matronics.com/contributions
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RV-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RV-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RV-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RV-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RV-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
- DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
- If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
easy to find threads in the archive.
- When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
can not be overstated!
- When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
"reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
response to the original poster. You might have to actively address
your response with the original poster's email address.
- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal. "Way to go!", "I
agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
- When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
contribute something valuable.
- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
- Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly
subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable. Posts by
List members promoting their respective products or items for sale
should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble
a typical SPAM message. The List isn't about commercialism, but
is about sharing information and knowledge. This applies to
everyone, including those who provide products to the entire
community. Informal presentation and moderation should be the
operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
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