Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:39 AM - Re: aeroquip (Vanremog@aol.com)
2. 06:33 AM - Re: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 (Dean Pichon)
3. 07:23 AM - Re: Re: Tip tanks (Darrell Reiley)
4. 07:26 AM - Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Jack Clark)
5. 07:43 AM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (William Gill)
6. 08:46 AM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Kevin Horton)
7. 09:08 AM - Re: Tip tanks (StephenN570Z)
8. 09:48 AM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Richard Lundin)
9. 09:49 AM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (PJ Seipel)
10. 11:22 AM - Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation (Kyle Boatright)
11. 12:08 PM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Patrick Kelley)
12. 01:01 PM - Re: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 (Doug Weiler)
13. 01:19 PM - Bill Costello email address change (William M Costello)
14. 02:28 PM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Paul Rice)
15. 03:19 PM - Re: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation (Roger Bartholomee)
16. 03:56 PM - Re: Tip tanks (Fred Stucklen)
17. 04:50 PM - Sleep Apnea (Gene Polenske)
18. 04:50 PM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Charlie England)
19. 05:09 PM - Re: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation (Jeff Point)
20. 07:51 PM - Re: Sleep Apnea (Terry Watson)
21. 11:25 PM - Re: Sleep Apnea (Bob Perkinson)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 4/1/2006 3:26:31 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
sportypilot@stx.rr.com writes:
I have a quick question, I have steel aeroquip hose fittings on my engine
oil in and out fittings and
wanted to know if the aluminum hose fittings will work ok with the steel
fittings.. and also steel on the
oil cooler 7 row vans type.. or will this cause problems ? they are both the
same brand and degree..
just one is half is steel and the hose fitting is aluminum.. any ideas ?
===============================
I used stainless nipple fittings on the engine and aluminum fittings on the
AQP hoses. A light coating of Fuelube on just the sealing facets and threads
probably couldn't hurt (unless you reduce the friction so much that the
fitting vibrates loose) and it may eliminate the galling that can occur even when
using aluminum pipe threads into aluminum.
Once again, the theory is generally to avoid dissimilar metals combinations
that are farthest apart on the galvanic table and keep them dry. It is
possible that, with new fittings, the anodizing may have some galvanic blocking
effect, effectively breaking up the galvanic couple between any dissimilar
parent metals.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 777hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 2
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| Subject: | RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Hi Paul,
I installed the RV-8 throttle quadrant in my -4 and it looks great and works
well with one exception; the knobs on the prop and mixture controls protrude
more than the standard -4 knobs and reduce stick travel slightly. My knee
contacts the knobs and the stick touches my knee... It is most noticeable
when doing aileron rolls to the left. I have on my "to do" list to modify
the lever arms to locate the knobs for these levers to be flush with the
throttle quadrant body.
Good luck
Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
----Original Message Follows----
From: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Has anyone put (or seen) an RV-8 Deluxe quadrant (the
cool black one from Van's) installed in an RV-4? Any
idea if it will fit well in the same location?
Paul Besing
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
If you don't mind me asking, what does Jon charge for his tip tank set up?
Darrell
---------------------------------
Message 4
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| Subject: | Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" <bacstabber@cox.net>
I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them with
my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or tighten.
On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of
the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches
in general or is this just how the CDI works?
My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they really? They
seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need to be
replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these nuts.
Thank you for your help...
Jack
Message 5
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| Subject: | Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
Hello Jack,
Replace the stripped hardware. If able, use a small cut-off wheel in a
dremel or die grinder.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack Clark
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" <bacstabber@cox.net>
I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued
them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't
loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound
but only got a bending of the handle at the head. First question...is
this normal for click torque wrenches in general or is this just how the
CDI works?
My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they
really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If
they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these
nuts.
Thank you for your help...
Jack
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 2 Apr 2006, at 10:25, Jack Clark wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" <bacstabber@cox.net>
>
> I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over
> torqued them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts
> that I can't loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a
> loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle at the
> head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches in
> general or is this just how the CDI works?
>
> My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do
> they really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off
> anyway. If they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how
> to remove these nuts.
Jack,
The bolts were also over torqued, and there is no way to know how
strong they are now. If the tie down fails during a wind storm, your
aircraft could be significantly damaged. Replace the bolts and nuts.
I have no experience on removing stripped nuts, so I can't offer any
good ideas there.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "StephenN570Z" <stephen.j.reyn@gmail.com>
G'day Darrell, Jon charges $3200 which is bloody expensive, still as long as he
spends it on aeroplanes & doesn't waste it who am I to comment. Actually I have
now met Jon a few times & he has been real helpful over the years so I feel
if there is anyway I can assist him then am happy to do so.
"Shine" I have talked to owners of certified planes but do not know the specifics
of how the Mooney et all work, do you have any experience you can share?
ta Stephen
N570Z Fuse
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26120#26120
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin <rlundin46@yahoo.com>
I don't know how much room you have to work with, but
you could try a nut cracker. Very inexpensive tool
that screws a wedge against the nut and brakes it on
one side.
Good luck,
Rick
--- Jack Clark <bacstabber@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark"
> <bacstabber@cox.net>
>
> I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down
> because I over torqued them with my new torque
> wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen
> or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud
> "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle
> at the head. First question...is this normal for
> click torque wrenches in general or is this just how
> the CDI works?
>
> My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be
> replaced but do they really? They seem to be secure
> and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need
> to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove
> these nuts.
>
> Thank you for your help...
>
> Jack
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
--> RV-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
I'd replace the nuts and bolts. Your torque wrench did exactly what
mine does, and I expect that's normal. The click over of the head is
very subtle and you have to be paying attention or you'll miss it.
PJ
Jack Clark wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" <bacstabber@cox.net>
>
> I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them with
my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or tighten.
On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got a bending
of the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for click torque
wrenches in general or is this just how the CDI works?
>
> My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they really?
They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need to
be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these nuts.
>
> Thank you for your help...
>
> Jack
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
A brake rivet tool has been on my list for some time and yesterday my safety wire
twisters broke, so I'll be buying both of these tools at SnF.
Any recommendations on the twisters and brake tool other than to buy from Avery
or Cleveland (who won't be at Snf)?
By the way, right before my twisters broke, they became very stiff - they didn't
rotate well at all. In hindsight, I imagine the internal threads were stripping.
In any case, I was having to pull pretty hard on them to get them to twist
at all. Then, they suddenly released all the way to the stop. When they hit
the stop, the jaws lost grip. This was followed very quickly with me slamming
the twisters into my knee, which has a minor cut and is nicely bruised today.
The lesson here (and one I have to re-learn from time to time) is that if you're
having to use an unusual amount of force to make a tool work, you're putting
yourself at risk of an injury when the tool breaks or slips...
KB
Message 11
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| Subject: | Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Seconding what Kevin said (since I didn't get the original post - that seems
to happen a lot; probably getting stripped by my ISP's spam filter), you
have actually stretched the bolt and weakened it, so it needs replacing as
well as the nut. As such, you don't have to be gentle with the bolt. A
nut-splitter will work, or careful work with a cutoff wheel (don't go
through the washer under the nut and into the structure). You may find that
the nut will still 'grab' the non-stripped threads behind it, allowing you
to simply un-bolt it, so I'd try that first if you already haven't. And,
yes, that is normal for click wrenches; I find that feel is a better
indicator than sound. No one told me how they worked and I was expecting
them to ratchet freely past torque; I just about twisted the bolt apart. ;)
Patrick Kelley - RV-6a - cabin details ongoing...
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 2 Apr 2006, at 10:25, Jack Clark wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" <bacstabber@cox.net>
>
> I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over
> torqued them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts
> that I can't loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a
> loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle at the
> head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches in
> general or is this just how the CDI works?
>
> My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do
> they really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off
> anyway. If they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how
> to remove these nuts.
Jack,
The bolts were also over torqued, and there is no way to know how
strong they are now. If the tie down fails during a wind storm, your
aircraft could be significantly damaged. Replace the bolts and nuts.
I have no experience on removing stripped nuts, so I can't offer any
good ideas there.
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dcw@mnwing.org>
>
> I installed the RV-8 throttle quadrant in my -4 and it looks great and
> works
> well with one exception; the knobs on the prop and mixture controls
> protrude
> more than the standard -4 knobs and reduce stick travel slightly. My knee
> contacts the knobs and the stick touches my knee... It is most noticeable
> when doing aileron rolls to the left. I have on my "to do" list to modify
> the lever arms to locate the knobs for these levers to be flush with the
> throttle quadrant body.
>
> Good luck
> Dean Pichon
> Bolton, MA
I have some photos available of my RV-4 throttle quadrant on Flickr. Try
this link and you should be able to view them. If not, contact me directly
and I can email them.
Doug Weiler
N722DW
http://www.flickr.com/photos/n722dw/sets/72057594096959221/
Message 13
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| Subject: | Bill Costello email address change |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William M Costello" <wmcenterprises@earthlink.net>
Please change my email address from
<mailto:wmcenterprises@earthlink.net> wmcenterprises@earthlink.net
to
wmcenterprises@comcast.net
The Earthlink address will be good for a short while longer, but not for
long.
Thanks,
Bill Costello
WMC Enterprises, Inc.
1358 W Fillmore Street Unit B
Chicago, IL 60607-4807
312-492-7407
Cell: 312-320-0018
FAX: 312-492-7408
wmcenterprises@earthlink.net
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
Use vice grips to get the nut off if there is room and replace nuts and
bolts.
Paul
RV8 Finish kit,
Buying avionics at Sun and Fun
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Clark" <bacstabber@cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:25 AM
Subject: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" <bacstabber@cox.net>
>
> I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them
> with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or
> tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got
> a bending of the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for
> click torque wrenches in general or is this just how the CDI works?
>
> My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they
> really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If
> they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these
> nuts.
>
> Thank you for your help...
>
> Jack
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Bartholomee" <RBartholomeee@comcast.net>
When you buy the brake rivet tool get the one that uses a screw to set the
rivet and not the one like I bought that you use a hammer. You will save
the extra money for the non-hammer type by not cracking linings.
Roger @ MD43
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 2:15 PM
Subject: RV-List: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
A brake rivet tool has been on my list for some time and yesterday my safety
wire twisters broke, so I'll be buying both of these tools at SnF.
Any recommendations on the twisters and brake tool other than to buy from
Avery or Cleveland (who won't be at Snf)?
By the way, right before my twisters broke, they became very stiff - they
didn't rotate well at all. In hindsight, I imagine the internal threads were
stripping. In any case, I was having to pull pretty hard on them to get them
to twist at all. Then, they suddenly released all the way to the stop. When
they hit the stop, the jaws lost grip. This was followed very quickly with
me slamming the twisters into my knee, which has a minor cut and is nicely
bruised today.
The lesson here (and one I have to re-learn from time to time) is that if
you're having to use an unusual amount of force to make a tool work, you're
putting yourself at risk of an injury when the tool breaks or slips...
KB
--
--
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" <wstucklen1@cox.net>
I agree. Having a check valve between the two tanks with no other
way to vent the pressure from the main tank (when in the hot sun) will
cause bad things to happen to your tanks.
I've just spent the last weekend modifying my JJ tanks such that the
tip tank is the ONLY vent. I have removed the check valve and replaced
it with a union. The main tank vent has been capped off. Main tank
expansion is handled by allowing the fuel to move to the tip tank. Fuel
flow is not restricted to the engine (can still get 30GPH), and there is
no fuel pressure loss to the engine (can't see any difference from just
running on the original main tank with vent...). Because of the position
of the main tank outside rib feed point (from the tip tank), there is no
way to completely empty the main tank into the tip. And as log as one
always selects the fullest tank for tankoff, the chances of loosing fuel
pressure on takeoff are extremely remote.
I have also tested, on the ground with jacks, and in the air, for
abnormal tilt conditions that I thought would have caused flow from the
main tanks to the tip tanks. After 3 hours at a 30* bank angle (big
jacks!) there wasn't an appreciable amount of additional fuel in the tip
tanks unless I loosened the main tank caps and let in air. The pickup
did un-port as expected, but this happens even in Vans original design.
(Never slip into the selected tank!) The tip tanks drain into the mains
as expected while in flight.... With a single vent system, there is
never the possibility of different tank vent pressures while in flight.
The ONLY issue I have with this approach is tank vent problems in
icing conditions. Van selected the belly behind the warm cowl air for a
reason. Vents out on the wing tips will definitely ice up in even slight
icing conditions. Having both tanks vented this way means one must stay
away from ALL icing conditions (you should anyways). But for now, during
the Spring and into the summer months, it should be OK. (I fly a lot of
hard IFR, and occasionally do get traces of ice during the winter
months, so I need a more robust venting method...)
So, later this summer, I'm going to remove the main tanks again, and
run a 1/4" aluminum line between the tip tank vent (put in a "T") and
the original main tank vent (another "T"). In this manner, both tanks
vents will be at exactly the same pressure, allowing only gravity to
move the fuel from the tip tanks to the main tanks. I'll also reinstall
the check valve between the tip tank and the main tank...... Just
because JJ wanted it that way.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Time: 04:43:30 PM PST US
From: "Bob Barrow" <bobbarrow10@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tip tanks
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Barrow"
<bobbarrow10@hotmail.com>
Hi Stephen, I would imagine that if you fully fill your inboard
tank(s) and
you have no vent in them then the fuel will have nowhere to go
when it
expands while the plane is sitting out in the sun. If it is
stopped from
going back to the tips by an Andair one-way valve the expansion
could quite
probably do serious damage to your inboard tank(s). The way to
overcome this
would be to eliminate the one-way valve..but I do not recommend
that either
as it might allow fuel to run back to the tips in flight. I think
you might
need a vent in the inboard tank(s). I'd put it where the plans
say....plenty
of warm air to keep it ice free in that location so it would
probably be a
safer bet than one vent out on the tip.
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" <Rv8tor@centurytel.net>
I have had a sleep study completed on me, and have been diagnosed with
sleep apnea. I have a Bi-PAP machine. I can't get used to it. I've
tried it on and off for 6 months. I also have sinus problems so it is
hard for me to breath through my nose anyway (I've had 3 operations on
my nose), that makes using the Bi-PAP machine even harder, you must
breath through your nose. I've also been told that operations for
sleep apnea are only about 40% to 60% successful with a chance for
some really bad side affects.
I work 60-80 hours a week every week, and I never fall asleep during
the day. Sure I'm tired but who wouldn't be with those hours.
Has anyone gone through this with the FAA and got your medical back
with a Special Issuance?
What is required, and what is the cost?
I could use some advice on who to talk to and, the steps to take.
Right now my medical is just expired.
I'm literally sick to my stomach that my flying days could be over,
and may never fly my RV-8.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Jack Clark wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" <bacstabber@cox.net>
>
>I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them with
my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or tighten.
On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got a bending
of the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches
in general or is this just how the CDI works?
>
>My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they really?
They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need to
be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these nuts.
>
>Thank you for your help...
>
>Jack
>
Can you get a large pair of 'dykes' (diagonal cutters) to the
intersection between the nut & washer? If so, you should be able to
squeeze & apply force outward on the nut while turning the nut. Use your
3rd hand to hold the head of the bolt. :-) Goal is to get the nut to
bite on good threads & start unscrewing.
If that fails you might try cutting the bolt even with the nut & then
drill the bolt like drilling out a rivet, but with a slightly larger bit
instead of smaller. The washer will buy you a small safety margin to
keep the bit away from the structure.
Torque wrench issues: If you've never used a torque wrench before, you
will be shocked at the small amount of force needed to torque nuts under
3/8" dia. I'll bet the wrench clicked before you even thought you had
snugged the nut.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Avery tools makes a brake rivet set which is designed to be used with a
rivet squeezer. They work very well, and at $17 a set, are cheaper than
a conventional brake rivet tool. I'm forever loaning mine out.
I assume Avery will be at SnF.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Gene,
I empathize with your situation. Just Friday I got my medical back after it
was discovered that I had indications of a possible problem when I tried to
get my medical renewed in December. My problem was not the same as yours,
but there may be some similarities in what you will go through to get it
resolved.
One of the first things I did was go to the AOPA members only section and
read their discussion of the medical problem that they thought I might have.
It was a total disqualifier, so I actually ended up undergoing surgery to
prove that I didn't have it. Anyway, here is the reference to the AOPA page
about Sleep Apnea: http://www.aopa.org/members/files/medical/apnea.html
Good luck with it.
Terry
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
I don't quite understand why sleep apnea would endanger your flight medical?
Is sleep apnea listed as a disqualification for a medical? You are not
taking any medication to control it, are you, and the only time you are in
any physical danger is while you are asleep.
Bob
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" <Rv8tor@centurytel.net>
I have had a sleep study completed on me, and have been diagnosed with
sleep apnea. I have a Bi-PAP machine. I can't get used to it. I've
tried it on and off for 6 months. I also have sinus problems so it is
hard for me to breath through my nose anyway (I've had 3 operations on
my nose), that makes using the Bi-PAP machine even harder, you must
breath through your nose. I've also been told that operations for
sleep apnea are only about 40% to 60% successful with a chance for
some really bad side affects.
I work 60-80 hours a week every week, and I never fall asleep during
the day. Sure I'm tired but who wouldn't be with those hours.
Has anyone gone through this with the FAA and got your medical back
with a Special Issuance?
What is required, and what is the cost?
I could use some advice on who to talk to and, the steps to take.
Right now my medical is just expired.
I'm literally sick to my stomach that my flying days could be over,
and may never fly my RV-8.
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