---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 04/02/06: 21 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:39 AM - Re: aeroquip (Vanremog@aol.com) 2. 06:33 AM - Re: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 (Dean Pichon) 3. 07:23 AM - Re: Re: Tip tanks (Darrell Reiley) 4. 07:26 AM - Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Jack Clark) 5. 07:43 AM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (William Gill) 6. 08:46 AM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Kevin Horton) 7. 09:08 AM - Re: Tip tanks (StephenN570Z) 8. 09:48 AM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Richard Lundin) 9. 09:49 AM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (PJ Seipel) 10. 11:22 AM - Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation (Kyle Boatright) 11. 12:08 PM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Patrick Kelley) 12. 01:01 PM - Re: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 (Doug Weiler) 13. 01:19 PM - Bill Costello email address change (William M Costello) 14. 02:28 PM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Paul Rice) 15. 03:19 PM - Re: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation (Roger Bartholomee) 16. 03:56 PM - Re: Tip tanks (Fred Stucklen) 17. 04:50 PM - Sleep Apnea (Gene Polenske) 18. 04:50 PM - Re: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 (Charlie England) 19. 05:09 PM - Re: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation (Jeff Point) 20. 07:51 PM - Re: Sleep Apnea (Terry Watson) 21. 11:25 PM - Re: Sleep Apnea (Bob Perkinson) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:39:43 AM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: aeroquip --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 4/1/2006 3:26:31 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, sportypilot@stx.rr.com writes: I have a quick question, I have steel aeroquip hose fittings on my engine oil in and out fittings and wanted to know if the aluminum hose fittings will work ok with the steel fittings.. and also steel on the oil cooler 7 row vans type.. or will this cause problems ? they are both the same brand and degree.. just one is half is steel and the hose fitting is aluminum.. any ideas ? =============================== I used stainless nipple fittings on the engine and aluminum fittings on the AQP hoses. A light coating of Fuelube on just the sealing facets and threads probably couldn't hurt (unless you reduce the friction so much that the fitting vibrates loose) and it may eliminate the galling that can occur even when using aluminum pipe threads into aluminum. Once again, the theory is generally to avoid dissimilar metals combinations that are farthest apart on the galvanic table and keep them dry. It is possible that, with new fittings, the anodizing may have some galvanic blocking effect, effectively breaking up the galvanic couple between any dissimilar parent metals. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 777hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:33:15 AM PST US From: "Dean Pichon" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" Hi Paul, I installed the RV-8 throttle quadrant in my -4 and it looks great and works well with one exception; the knobs on the prop and mixture controls protrude more than the standard -4 knobs and reduce stick travel slightly. My knee contacts the knobs and the stick touches my knee... It is most noticeable when doing aileron rolls to the left. I have on my "to do" list to modify the lever arms to locate the knobs for these levers to be flush with the throttle quadrant body. Good luck Dean Pichon Bolton, MA ----Original Message Follows---- From: Paul Besing Subject: RV-List: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing Has anyone put (or seen) an RV-8 Deluxe quadrant (the cool black one from Van's) installed in an RV-4? Any idea if it will fit well in the same location? Paul Besing ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:23:38 AM PST US From: Darrell Reiley Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Tip tanks --> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley If you don't mind me asking, what does Jon charge for his tip tank set up? Darrell --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:26:49 AM PST US From: "Jack Clark" Subject: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches in general or is this just how the CDI works? My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these nuts. Thank you for your help... Jack ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:43:12 AM PST US From: "William Gill" Subject: RE: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 --> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" Hello Jack, Replace the stripped hardware. If able, use a small cut-off wheel in a dremel or die grinder. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack Clark Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:25 AM Subject: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches in general or is this just how the CDI works? My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these nuts. Thank you for your help... Jack ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:46:02 AM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton On 2 Apr 2006, at 10:25, Jack Clark wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" > > I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over > torqued them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts > that I can't loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a > loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle at the > head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches in > general or is this just how the CDI works? > > My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do > they really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off > anyway. If they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how > to remove these nuts. Jack, The bolts were also over torqued, and there is no way to know how strong they are now. If the tie down fails during a wind storm, your aircraft could be significantly damaged. Replace the bolts and nuts. I have no experience on removing stripped nuts, so I can't offer any good ideas there. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:08:07 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Tip tanks From: "StephenN570Z" --> RV-List message posted by: "StephenN570Z" G'day Darrell, Jon charges $3200 which is bloody expensive, still as long as he spends it on aeroplanes & doesn't waste it who am I to comment. Actually I have now met Jon a few times & he has been real helpful over the years so I feel if there is anyway I can assist him then am happy to do so. "Shine" I have talked to owners of certified planes but do not know the specifics of how the Mooney et all work, do you have any experience you can share? ta Stephen N570Z Fuse Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26120#26120 ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:48:56 AM PST US From: Richard Lundin Subject: Re: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Lundin I don't know how much room you have to work with, but you could try a nut cracker. Very inexpensive tool that screws a wedge against the nut and brakes it on one side. Good luck, Rick --- Jack Clark wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" > > > I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down > because I over torqued them with my new torque > wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen > or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud > "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle > at the head. First question...is this normal for > click torque wrenches in general or is this just how > the CDI works? > > My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be > replaced but do they really? They seem to be secure > and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need > to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove > these nuts. > > Thank you for your help... > > Jack > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > Admin. > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:49:08 AM PST US From: PJ Seipel Subject: Re: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 --> RV-List message posted by: PJ Seipel I'd replace the nuts and bolts. Your torque wrench did exactly what mine does, and I expect that's normal. The click over of the head is very subtle and you have to be paying attention or you'll miss it. PJ Jack Clark wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" > > I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches in general or is this just how the CDI works? > > My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these nuts. > > Thank you for your help... > > Jack > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 11:22:16 AM PST US From: "Kyle Boatright" Subject: RV-List: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" A brake rivet tool has been on my list for some time and yesterday my safety wire twisters broke, so I'll be buying both of these tools at SnF. Any recommendations on the twisters and brake tool other than to buy from Avery or Cleveland (who won't be at Snf)? By the way, right before my twisters broke, they became very stiff - they didn't rotate well at all. In hindsight, I imagine the internal threads were stripping. In any case, I was having to pull pretty hard on them to get them to twist at all. Then, they suddenly released all the way to the stop. When they hit the stop, the jaws lost grip. This was followed very quickly with me slamming the twisters into my knee, which has a minor cut and is nicely bruised today. The lesson here (and one I have to re-learn from time to time) is that if you're having to use an unusual amount of force to make a tool work, you're putting yourself at risk of an injury when the tool breaks or slips... KB ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 12:08:39 PM PST US From: "Patrick Kelley" Subject: RE: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 --> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" Seconding what Kevin said (since I didn't get the original post - that seems to happen a lot; probably getting stripped by my ISP's spam filter), you have actually stretched the bolt and weakened it, so it needs replacing as well as the nut. As such, you don't have to be gentle with the bolt. A nut-splitter will work, or careful work with a cutoff wheel (don't go through the washer under the nut and into the structure). You may find that the nut will still 'grab' the non-stripped threads behind it, allowing you to simply un-bolt it, so I'd try that first if you already haven't. And, yes, that is normal for click wrenches; I find that feel is a better indicator than sound. No one told me how they worked and I was expecting them to ratchet freely past torque; I just about twisted the bolt apart. ;) Patrick Kelley - RV-6a - cabin details ongoing... -----Original Message----- --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton On 2 Apr 2006, at 10:25, Jack Clark wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" > > I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over > torqued them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts > that I can't loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a > loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle at the > head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches in > general or is this just how the CDI works? > > My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do > they really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off > anyway. If they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how > to remove these nuts. Jack, The bolts were also over torqued, and there is no way to know how strong they are now. If the tie down fails during a wind storm, your aircraft could be significantly damaged. Replace the bolts and nuts. I have no experience on removing stripped nuts, so I can't offer any good ideas there. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 01:01:10 PM PST US From: "Doug Weiler" Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-8 Quadrant in RV-4 --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" > > I installed the RV-8 throttle quadrant in my -4 and it looks great and > works > well with one exception; the knobs on the prop and mixture controls > protrude > more than the standard -4 knobs and reduce stick travel slightly. My knee > contacts the knobs and the stick touches my knee... It is most noticeable > when doing aileron rolls to the left. I have on my "to do" list to modify > the lever arms to locate the knobs for these levers to be flush with the > throttle quadrant body. > > Good luck > Dean Pichon > Bolton, MA I have some photos available of my RV-4 throttle quadrant on Flickr. Try this link and you should be able to view them. If not, contact me directly and I can email them. Doug Weiler N722DW http://www.flickr.com/photos/n722dw/sets/72057594096959221/ ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 01:19:11 PM PST US From: "William M Costello" Subject: RV-List: Bill Costello email address change --> RV-List message posted by: "William M Costello" Please change my email address from wmcenterprises@earthlink.net to wmcenterprises@comcast.net The Earthlink address will be good for a short while longer, but not for long. Thanks, Bill Costello WMC Enterprises, Inc. 1358 W Fillmore Street Unit B Chicago, IL 60607-4807 312-492-7407 Cell: 312-320-0018 FAX: 312-492-7408 wmcenterprises@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 02:28:49 PM PST US From: "Paul Rice" Subject: Re: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" Use vice grips to get the nut off if there is room and replace nuts and bolts. Paul RV8 Finish kit, Buying avionics at Sun and Fun ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jack Clark" Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:25 AM Subject: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" > > I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them > with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or > tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got > a bending of the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for > click torque wrenches in general or is this just how the CDI works? > > My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they > really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If > they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these > nuts. > > Thank you for your help... > > Jack > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:19:10 PM PST US From: "Roger Bartholomee" Subject: RE: RV-List: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation --> RV-List message posted by: "Roger Bartholomee" When you buy the brake rivet tool get the one that uses a screw to set the rivet and not the one like I bought that you use a hammer. You will save the extra money for the non-hammer type by not cracking linings. Roger @ MD43 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kyle Boatright Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 2:15 PM Subject: RV-List: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" A brake rivet tool has been on my list for some time and yesterday my safety wire twisters broke, so I'll be buying both of these tools at SnF. Any recommendations on the twisters and brake tool other than to buy from Avery or Cleveland (who won't be at Snf)? By the way, right before my twisters broke, they became very stiff - they didn't rotate well at all. In hindsight, I imagine the internal threads were stripping. In any case, I was having to pull pretty hard on them to get them to twist at all. Then, they suddenly released all the way to the stop. When they hit the stop, the jaws lost grip. This was followed very quickly with me slamming the twisters into my knee, which has a minor cut and is nicely bruised today. The lesson here (and one I have to re-learn from time to time) is that if you're having to use an unusual amount of force to make a tool work, you're putting yourself at risk of an injury when the tool breaks or slips... KB -- -- ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 03:56:51 PM PST US From: "Fred Stucklen" Subject: RV-List: Re: Tip tanks --> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Stucklen" I agree. Having a check valve between the two tanks with no other way to vent the pressure from the main tank (when in the hot sun) will cause bad things to happen to your tanks. I've just spent the last weekend modifying my JJ tanks such that the tip tank is the ONLY vent. I have removed the check valve and replaced it with a union. The main tank vent has been capped off. Main tank expansion is handled by allowing the fuel to move to the tip tank. Fuel flow is not restricted to the engine (can still get 30GPH), and there is no fuel pressure loss to the engine (can't see any difference from just running on the original main tank with vent...). Because of the position of the main tank outside rib feed point (from the tip tank), there is no way to completely empty the main tank into the tip. And as log as one always selects the fullest tank for tankoff, the chances of loosing fuel pressure on takeoff are extremely remote. I have also tested, on the ground with jacks, and in the air, for abnormal tilt conditions that I thought would have caused flow from the main tanks to the tip tanks. After 3 hours at a 30* bank angle (big jacks!) there wasn't an appreciable amount of additional fuel in the tip tanks unless I loosened the main tank caps and let in air. The pickup did un-port as expected, but this happens even in Vans original design. (Never slip into the selected tank!) The tip tanks drain into the mains as expected while in flight.... With a single vent system, there is never the possibility of different tank vent pressures while in flight. The ONLY issue I have with this approach is tank vent problems in icing conditions. Van selected the belly behind the warm cowl air for a reason. Vents out on the wing tips will definitely ice up in even slight icing conditions. Having both tanks vented this way means one must stay away from ALL icing conditions (you should anyways). But for now, during the Spring and into the summer months, it should be OK. (I fly a lot of hard IFR, and occasionally do get traces of ice during the winter months, so I need a more robust venting method...) So, later this summer, I'm going to remove the main tanks again, and run a 1/4" aluminum line between the tip tank vent (put in a "T") and the original main tank vent (another "T"). In this manner, both tanks vents will be at exactly the same pressure, allowing only gravity to move the fuel from the tip tanks to the main tanks. I'll also reinstall the check valve between the tip tank and the main tank...... Just because JJ wanted it that way..... Fred Stucklen RV-6A N926RV Time: 04:43:30 PM PST US From: "Bob Barrow" Subject: Re: Tip tanks --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Barrow" Hi Stephen, I would imagine that if you fully fill your inboard tank(s) and you have no vent in them then the fuel will have nowhere to go when it expands while the plane is sitting out in the sun. If it is stopped from going back to the tips by an Andair one-way valve the expansion could quite probably do serious damage to your inboard tank(s). The way to overcome this would be to eliminate the one-way valve..but I do not recommend that either as it might allow fuel to run back to the tips in flight. I think you might need a vent in the inboard tank(s). I'd put it where the plans say....plenty of warm air to keep it ice free in that location so it would probably be a safer bet than one vent out on the tip. ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:50:05 PM PST US From: "Gene Polenske" Subject: RV-List: Sleep Apnea --> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" I have had a sleep study completed on me, and have been diagnosed with sleep apnea. I have a Bi-PAP machine. I can't get used to it. I've tried it on and off for 6 months. I also have sinus problems so it is hard for me to breath through my nose anyway (I've had 3 operations on my nose), that makes using the Bi-PAP machine even harder, you must breath through your nose. I've also been told that operations for sleep apnea are only about 40% to 60% successful with a chance for some really bad side affects. I work 60-80 hours a week every week, and I never fall asleep during the day. Sure I'm tired but who wouldn't be with those hours. Has anyone gone through this with the FAA and got your medical back with a Special Issuance? What is required, and what is the cost? I could use some advice on who to talk to and, the steps to take. Right now my medical is just expired. I'm literally sick to my stomach that my flying days could be over, and may never fly my RV-8. ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 04:50:05 PM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: RV-List: Ways to remove stipped AN-365 --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England Jack Clark wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Clark" > >I have two stripped AN-365 nuts on my tie down because I over torqued them with my new torque wrench. Now I have the two nuts that I can't loosen or tighten. On the CDI wrench, I expected a loud "Click" sound but only got a bending of the handle at the head. First question...is this normal for click torque wrenches in general or is this just how the CDI works? > >My noviced belief is that these nuts need to be replaced but do they really? They seem to be secure and don't want to come off anyway. If they do need to be replaced, I need some advise on how to remove these nuts. > >Thank you for your help... > >Jack > Can you get a large pair of 'dykes' (diagonal cutters) to the intersection between the nut & washer? If so, you should be able to squeeze & apply force outward on the nut while turning the nut. Use your 3rd hand to hold the head of the bolt. :-) Goal is to get the nut to bite on good threads & start unscrewing. If that fails you might try cutting the bolt even with the nut & then drill the bolt like drilling out a rivet, but with a slightly larger bit instead of smaller. The washer will buy you a small safety margin to keep the bit away from the structure. Torque wrench issues: If you've never used a torque wrench before, you will be shocked at the small amount of force needed to torque nuts under 3/8" dia. I'll bet the wrench clicked before you even thought you had snugged the nut. ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 05:09:59 PM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: Brake Rivet Tool & Safety Wire Twister Recommendation --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point Avery tools makes a brake rivet set which is designed to be used with a rivet squeezer. They work very well, and at $17 a set, are cheaper than a conventional brake rivet tool. I'm forever loaning mine out. I assume Avery will be at SnF. Jeff Point RV-6 Milwaukee > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 07:51:34 PM PST US From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Sleep Apnea --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" Gene, I empathize with your situation. Just Friday I got my medical back after it was discovered that I had indications of a possible problem when I tried to get my medical renewed in December. My problem was not the same as yours, but there may be some similarities in what you will go through to get it resolved. One of the first things I did was go to the AOPA members only section and read their discussion of the medical problem that they thought I might have. It was a total disqualifier, so I actually ended up undergoing surgery to prove that I didn't have it. Anyway, here is the reference to the AOPA page about Sleep Apnea: http://www.aopa.org/members/files/medical/apnea.html Good luck with it. Terry ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 11:25:14 PM PST US From: "Bob Perkinson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Sleep Apnea --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" I don't quite understand why sleep apnea would endanger your flight medical? Is sleep apnea listed as a disqualification for a medical? You are not taking any medication to control it, are you, and the only time you are in any physical danger is while you are asleep. Bob --> RV-List message posted by: "Gene Polenske" I have had a sleep study completed on me, and have been diagnosed with sleep apnea. I have a Bi-PAP machine. I can't get used to it. I've tried it on and off for 6 months. I also have sinus problems so it is hard for me to breath through my nose anyway (I've had 3 operations on my nose), that makes using the Bi-PAP machine even harder, you must breath through your nose. I've also been told that operations for sleep apnea are only about 40% to 60% successful with a chance for some really bad side affects. I work 60-80 hours a week every week, and I never fall asleep during the day. Sure I'm tired but who wouldn't be with those hours. Has anyone gone through this with the FAA and got your medical back with a Special Issuance? What is required, and what is the cost? I could use some advice on who to talk to and, the steps to take. Right now my medical is just expired. I'm literally sick to my stomach that my flying days could be over, and may never fly my RV-8.