Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:57 AM - Re: towing 6a (Chris W)
2. 08:30 AM - Towing RV-6 (Dan Ross)
3. 08:36 AM - experimental aircraft registration information (Bill VonDane)
4. 09:21 AM - instrument panel water jet cutting (Mickey Coggins)
5. 10:22 AM - Fw: RV tow bar (Dale Ensing)
6. 11:16 AM - RV-4 For Sale in Indiana (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
7. 11:47 AM - Re: instrument panel water jet cutting (Tom Barnes)
8. 11:47 AM - Re: instrument panel water jet cutting (Steve Allison)
9. 12:23 PM - Re: instrument panel water jet cutting (Joseph Larson)
10. 12:59 PM - Re: instrument panel water jet cutting (Rhonda Bewley)
11. 05:00 PM - Re: experimental aircraft registration information (Brian Alley)
12. 05:00 PM - Re: instrument panel water jet cutting (William Gill)
13. 05:00 PM - Re: Towing RV-6 (Brian Alley)
14. 08:25 PM - Re: Fw: RV tow bar (Charlie England)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <3edcft6@cox.net>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>What I do now is taxi the plane into the hangar, . . .
>
>
I'm with you on this one and if I ever get around to building my RV I
will do almost the same thing. If the prop pitch would reverse, I would
back it in(I hate backing out, much more than backing in), but I plan on
getting in the plane in the hanger and taxi it out. And yes you can be
110% sure there will be nothing the prop wash can send flying around the
hangar
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
One stop wish list for any gift,
from anywhere, for any occasion!
http://thewishzone.com
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Ross" <dcr@fdltownhomes.com>
I know a fella who uses a garage door opener to pull his C-185 by the tail
into his T-hanger. He pushes the remote and the door opener winds up the =BC=94
rope until reaches the limit switch stop. He guides it in by the tail
moving it left and right as needed using a painted strip on the floor. Dan
Message 3
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| Subject: | experimental aircraft registration information |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
off topic...
i am looking for some good information on the numbers of experimental aircraft
started, finished and registered of the past several years... Anyone know of
a good source of this information?
Thanks!
-Bill
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | instrument panel water jet cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
Anyone have some suggestions for instrument panel
water jet cutting? I've tried experimentalair.com
but I'm not getting any response. Perhaps I'm being
too impatient. Stein's focusing on complete panels,
as is affordable panels.
Thanks for any pointers.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
Had sufficient request for this info so am sending to the list.
Fabricating TOW BAR for RV nose wheel.
Bill of materials
6 feet - .125" wall x 1" square steel tubing
2 ea. - 3/16" thick x 10" x 2" steel flat plate
2 ea. - 5/16" X 3" bolts
4 ea. - 5/16" nuts
2 ea. - 1/4" x 2" bolts
1 ea. - 1/4" lock nut & washers
1 ea. - 1/2" OD steel tubing about 10" long
1 ea. - 1 7/8" ball coupler and mounting hardware
1.) From the square steel tubing, cut 2 one foot long pieces. These two pieces
will be the side arms of the towbar. The remaining 4 feet will be the tongue.
2.) Before welding, using a drill press, drill 5/16" holes one inch from an end
of both short pieces of the steel tubing. The holes must go thru both sides
of the tubing. In the long piece of tubing, drill a 1/2" hole about
28" from one end.
3.) One of the short pieces and the long piece of tubing are now welded between
the steel plates. The long piece is centered on the 10" length and is perpendicular
to the plates. The 1/2" holes in the long piece must be parallel to
the plates and 28" from the plates.
The short piece is at one end of the plates, perpendicular to the plates and
is in the opposite direction of the long piece. The end with the 5/16" hole
is opposite to the steel plates with the holes parallel to the steel plates.
4.) The remaining short piece of tubing is now placed between the plates on the
opposite end from the short piece that is welded in place. It must be clamped
in place for drilling with the 5/16" holes aligned with the mating holes
on the other short arm. It would be best to use a 5/16" rod, about a foot
long, running thru both arms to align the holes. Something similar may
work as well but these holes are for the engagement pins that insert into the
Allen head cap screws on the nose wheel fork so they must align well.
When every thing is squared up, drill a 1/4" hole thru the plates and the short
arm for the 1/4" bolt that will be the pivot and allow the arm to swing
out for engagement of the nose wheel fork. This hole must be placed so that
an adjacent 1/4 hole can be drilled that will be for the 1/4" locking
pin that is dropped into place after engagement with the nose wheel fork.
5.) A 5/16" nut is welded at the hole on the out side of each arm. This is done
with the 5/16" bolt thru the square steel tube and threaded into the nut. The
head of the bolt is cut off and the cut end is finished. The bolt
quality must be good enough to not bend when it is engaged into the Allen head
cap screw as all of the force in towing will be a bending moment on the
bolt. A second 5/16" nut is threaded on to the protruding threaded end of each
bolt to act as a jam nut when the proper spacing is attained
for the width of the nose fork.
6.) A piece of 1/2" OD round steel tubing is welded into the hole that is about
midway up the long tongue. This is a hand pull handle and is really optional
but I find it very convenient sometime when the towbar is not hooked to the
tractor.
7.) Holes are drilled in the end of the tongue and the ball coupler is mounted.
Notes:
The spacing and length of the arms on my towbar may not fit your nose wheel set
up . I have Van's older style nose wheel fairing - not the pressure recovery
type. On mine tThe inside dimension between the arms is 8" and the engagement
pins are 6" when the arm is in the closed position.
The square steel tubing could be a little lighter weight. I used what I had and
is probably overkill. Perhaps 3/4"square or may be 1" with a thinner wall thickness
would also work ok.
To help give an idea how it looks.
______________________
l_l_ _______________ l _ l This arm is fixed.
l l l
l _ l_________________________________________________
l _ l_________________________________________________l
l l
__l ________________l _ l
l_ l________________ l__ l This arm pivots.
Message 6
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| Subject: | RV-4 For Sale in Indiana |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Dennis Shirley has his very nice RV-4 listed for sale on Barnstormers.com.
He and his plane are well know in this part of the country. This is a fine
airplane that he built himself and finished in, I believe, 1994, and has flown
regularly since then. His failing hearing is forcing him to give up cross
country flying because he can't hear ATC well enough any more. He says if he
can't go places, he doesn't enjoy flying that much. He really has mixed
feelings about parting with the airplane, but says that he has to let it go.
I
think that what he is asking is extremely reasonable. Denny is a good friend
of mine, and I think that this will make someone a great airplane. Check the
ad and give him a call if you're looking for a ready to enjoy RV-4.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A Flying 150 hours
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: instrument panel water jet cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Barnes" <skytop@megsinet.net>
Werner Berry of Pacific Panel uses CNC, but the end results are perfect
holes. Great service too.
http://www.sptpanel.com/
Tom Barnes -6 first flight two years today.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 11:17 AM
Subject: RV-List: instrument panel water jet cutting
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi,
>
> Anyone have some suggestions for instrument panel
> water jet cutting? I've tried experimentalair.com
> but I'm not getting any response. Perhaps I'm being
> too impatient. Stein's focusing on complete panels,
> as is affordable panels.
>
> Thanks for any pointers.
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 finishing
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: instrument panel water jet cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Allison <stevea@svpal.org>
Any particular reason you want water jet cutting? NC (numerically
controlled) routing is also used to cut instrument panels. The 1/8 inch
diameter router bit used can not cut as tight a corner as a water jet,
so some filing may be required for tighter corners. Avionics panel
shops should be familiar with this. Other than that, the cut panel
should come out the same. The avionics shops I talked to use NC routers.
My panel is at an avionics shop (as I type this) to be cut, painted,
engraved and matte finish epoxy clear coated. Contact me off list if
you want to know my experience so far.
Steve
RV-6A
Mickey Coggins wrote:
> Anyone have some suggestions for instrument panel
> water jet cutting? I've tried experimentalair.com
> but I'm not getting any response. Perhaps I'm being
> too impatient. Stein's focusing on complete panels,
> as is affordable panels.
>
> Thanks for any pointers.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: instrument panel water jet cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
I think he was asking about water jet cutting as that's what's used
at experimentailair.com. This site has what appears to be pretty
reasonable prices for designing and cutting your panel, so I can see
the attraction.
-Joe
RV-6A. Well, I think I'm about halfway through the "V" so far :-)
On Apr 4, 2006, at 1:45 PM, Steve Allison wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Steve Allison <stevea@svpal.org>
>
> Any particular reason you want water jet cutting? NC (numerically
> controlled) routing is also used to cut instrument panels. The 1/8
> inch
> diameter router bit used can not cut as tight a corner as a water jet,
> so some filing may be required for tighter corners. Avionics panel
> shops should be familiar with this. Other than that, the cut panel
> should come out the same. The avionics shops I talked to use NC
> routers.
>
> My panel is at an avionics shop (as I type this) to be cut, painted,
> engraved and matte finish epoxy clear coated. Contact me off list if
> you want to know my experience so far.
>
>
> Steve
> RV-6A
>
>
> Mickey Coggins wrote:
>> Anyone have some suggestions for instrument panel
>> water jet cutting? I've tried experimentalair.com
>> but I'm not getting any response. Perhaps I'm being
>> too impatient. Stein's focusing on complete panels,
>> as is affordable panels.
>>
>> Thanks for any pointers.
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | instrument panel water jet cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@BPAENGINES.com>
Experimental Air is owned by Ross Schlotthauer who built an RV-7. I
left him a voice mail and will be happy to pass on his phone number as
soon as I get the go ahead from him.
Rhonda
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Joseph Larson
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 2:19 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: instrument panel water jet cutting
--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
I think he was asking about water jet cutting as that's what's used
at experimentailair.com. This site has what appears to be pretty
reasonable prices for designing and cutting your panel, so I can see
the attraction.
-Joe
RV-6A. Well, I think I'm about halfway through the "V" so far :-)
On Apr 4, 2006, at 1:45 PM, Steve Allison wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Steve Allison <stevea@svpal.org>
>
> Any particular reason you want water jet cutting? NC (numerically
> controlled) routing is also used to cut instrument panels. The 1/8
> inch
> diameter router bit used can not cut as tight a corner as a water jet,
> so some filing may be required for tighter corners. Avionics panel
> shops should be familiar with this. Other than that, the cut panel
> should come out the same. The avionics shops I talked to use NC
> routers.
>
> My panel is at an avionics shop (as I type this) to be cut, painted,
> engraved and matte finish epoxy clear coated. Contact me off list if
> you want to know my experience so far.
>
>
> Steve
> RV-6A
>
>
> Mickey Coggins wrote:
>> Anyone have some suggestions for instrument panel
>> water jet cutting? I've tried experimentalair.com
>> but I'm not getting any response. Perhaps I'm being
>> too impatient. Stein's focusing on complete panels,
>> as is affordable panels.
>>
>> Thanks for any pointers.
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: experimental aircraft registration information |
--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
The EAA kept records a few years ago and published stats in Sport Aviation. They
probably still do. Give them a call!!!
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
www.carbonfibercomposites.net
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 12
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| Subject: | instrument panel water jet cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
Mickey,
Experimentalair does great work, your patience will payoff.
A satisfied customer.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Sent: Tuesday, April 04, 2006 11:17 AM
Subject: RV-List: instrument panel water jet cutting
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
Anyone have some suggestions for instrument panel
water jet cutting? I've tried experimentalair.com
but I'm not getting any response. Perhaps I'm being
too impatient. Stein's focusing on complete panels,
as is affordable panels.
Thanks for any pointers.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: Brian Alley <n320wt@yahoo.com>
We have a electric winch bolted to the floor in the back of the hangar for our
Bellanca Viking. It's great when its cold and icey or if your alone with the tires
a little low.
BRIAN ALLEY (N320WT)
CARBON FIBER COMPOSITES
101 Caroline Circle
Hurricane, WV 25526
www.carbonfibercomposites.net
304-562-6800 home
304-395-4932 cell
How are you going to win by a nose if you don't stick out your neck?
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: RV tow bar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Dale Ensing wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
>
>
>Had sufficient request for this info so am sending to the list.
>
>
>Fabricating TOW BAR for RV nose wheel.
>
>Bill of materials
>6 feet - .125" wall x 1" square steel tubing
>2 ea. - 3/16" thick x 10" x 2" steel flat plate
>2 ea. - 5/16" X 3" bolts
>4 ea. - 5/16" nuts
>2 ea. - 1/4" x 2" bolts
>1 ea. - 1/4" lock nut & washers
>1 ea. - 1/2" OD steel tubing about 10" long
>1 ea. - 1 7/8" ball coupler and mounting hardware
>
>1.) From the square steel tubing, cut 2 one foot long pieces. These two pieces
will be the side arms of the towbar. The remaining 4 feet will be the tongue.
>
>2.) Before welding, using a drill press, drill 5/16" holes one inch from an
end of both short pieces of the steel tubing. The holes must go thru both sides
of the tubing. In the long piece of tubing, drill a 1/2" hole about
28" from one end.
>
>3.) One of the short pieces and the long piece of tubing are now welded between
the steel plates. The long piece is centered on the 10" length and is perpendicular
to the plates. The 1/2" holes in the long piece must be parallel
to the plates and 28" from the plates.
> The short piece is at one end of the plates, perpendicular to the plates
and is in the opposite direction of the long piece. The end with the 5/16" hole
is opposite to the steel plates with the holes parallel to the steel plates.
>
>4.) The remaining short piece of tubing is now placed between the plates on the
opposite end from the short piece that is welded in place. It must be clamped
in place for drilling with the 5/16" holes aligned with the mating
holes on the other short arm. It would be best to use a 5/16" rod, about a foot
long, running thru both arms to align the holes. Something similar may
work as well but these holes are for the engagement pins that insert into the
Allen head cap screws on the nose wheel fork so they must align well.
When every thing is squared up, drill a 1/4" hole thru the plates and the short
arm for the 1/4" bolt that will be the pivot and allow the arm to swing
out for engagement of the nose wheel fork. This hole must be placed so that
an adjacent 1/4 hole can be drilled that will be for the 1/4" locking
pin that is dropped into place after engagement with the nose wheel fork.
>
>5.) A 5/16" nut is welded at the hole on the out side of each arm. This is done
with the 5/16" bolt thru the square steel tube and threaded into the nut. The
head of the bolt is cut off and the cut end is finished. The bolt
quality must be good enough to not bend when it is engaged into the Allen
head cap screw as all of the force in towing will be a bending moment on
the bolt. A second 5/16" nut is threaded on to the protruding threaded end of
each bolt to act as a jam nut when the proper spacing is attained
for the width of the nose fork.
>
>6.) A piece of 1/2" OD round steel tubing is welded into the hole that is about
midway up the long tongue. This is a hand pull handle and is really optional
but I find it very convenient sometime when the towbar is not hooked to the
tractor.
>
>7.) Holes are drilled in the end of the tongue and the ball coupler is mounted.
>
>Notes:
>The spacing and length of the arms on my towbar may not fit your nose wheel set
up . I have Van's older style nose wheel fairing - not the pressure recovery
type. On mine tThe inside dimension between the arms is 8" and the engagement
pins are 6" when the arm is in the closed position.
>The square steel tubing could be a little lighter weight. I used what I had and
is probably overkill. Perhaps 3/4"square or may be 1" with a thinner wall thickness
would also work ok.
>
>To help give an idea how it looks.
>______________________
>l_l_ _______________ l _ l This arm is fixed.
> l l l
> l _ l_________________________________________________
> l _ l_________________________________________________l
> l l
>__l ________________l _ l
>l_ l________________ l__ l This arm pivots.
>
Hey Dale, why not put this on Matt's new wiki?
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