Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:54 AM - RV6 Control column (Clive Whittfield)
2. 08:10 AM - Re: RV6 Control column (Tim Bryan)
3. 08:12 AM - Re: Fw: RV tow bar (Chris W)
4. 08:31 AM - Re: RV6 Control column (Ralph E. Capen)
5. 09:33 AM - Re: RV-12 question (steveadams)
6. 10:50 AM - Re: RV6 Control column (Steve Allison)
7. 11:11 AM - Re: RV6 Control column (HCRV6@comcast.net)
8. 01:56 PM - Heavy Wing (DAVID REEL)
9. 02:16 PM - Re: Heavy Wing (dsvs@comcast.net)
10. 04:28 PM - Re: RV6 Control column (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
11. 05:11 PM - Re: Heavy Wing (Jeff Point)
12. 06:26 PM - New Mooney (charles heathco)
13. 06:37 PM - Tight turns, how to keep from climbing (charles heathco)
14. 07:28 PM - Re: Tight turns, how to keep from climbing (Jerry Springer)
15. 07:46 PM - Any have a IO-360 with a Dualmag setup? (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
16. 07:52 PM - switching from slow build to QB (David Fenstermacher)
17. 08:20 PM - Tight turns, how to keep from climbing (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
18. 08:32 PM - Re: New Mooney (Chuck)
19. 09:59 PM - Re: switching from slow build to QB (Matt Johnson)
20. 11:21 PM - Re: Heavy Wing (Mickey Coggins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | RV6 Control column |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw@ihug.co.nz>
Listers
Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to DWG 41
I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the stated measurements.
The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end bearings on the F-665
seems a little too long. With everything in place tops of the control sticks
slope slightly inward ie the distance between the tops of the stick is about
an inch less than down near the pivot points. I have wound the rod end bearings
in as far as they can go, and have double checked all measurements making
sure the weldments are correctly manufactured etc, and all seem to be correct.
The easy fix would appear to simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but am reluctant
to commit to that option without some advice first.
Has anyone else struck this or am I missing something?
Clive Whittfield
New Zealand
RV6 Fuselage
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 Control column |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
Clive,
I would make the sticks parallel to your liking by shortening the rod.
Cutting it shorter if needed also. Mine are parallel and I have no idea
what the length of the rod is.
IMHO
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Clive Whittfield
Subject: RV-List: RV6 Control column
--> RV-List message posted by: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw@ihug.co.nz>
Listers
Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to
DWG 41 I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the
stated measurements. The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end
bearings on the F-665 seems a little too long. With everything in place
tops of the control sticks slope slightly inward ie the distance between the
tops of the stick is about an inch less than down near the pivot points. I
have wound the rod end bearings in as far as they can go, and have double
checked all measurements making sure the weldments are correctly
manufactured etc, and all seem to be correct. The easy fix would appear to
simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but am reluctant to commit to that option
without some advice first.
Has anyone else struck this or am I missing something?
Clive Whittfield
New Zealand
RV6 Fuselage
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fw: RV tow bar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <3edcft6@cox.net>
A picture is worth a thousand words but a 3D model is worth a million
words. Except for not showing the 1 7/8" ball coupler I think this is
right.
I have a 3D model here
http://www.thewishzone.com/aviation/TowBar/TowBar.isf
screen shots here
http://www.thewishzone.com/aviation/TowBar/index.php
To view the 3D model, you need a program called "ModelPress Reader which
is free and the best thing I have found for sharing 3D models. It is a
7 meg download and doesn't put any spyware or other garbage on your
computer. You can download the free version here
http://www.modelpress.com/download.htm
The free version is all you need to view any files I create.
A few notes,
Left Mouse button Drag -- 3D rotate
Right Mouse Button Drag -- Zoom
Left and Right Mouse Button Drag -- Pan
Mouse Wheel will also zoom.
do not archive
Dale Ensing wrote:
>Fabricating TOW BAR for RV nose wheel.
>
>Bill of materials
>6 feet - .125" wall x 1" square steel tubing
>2 ea. - 3/16" thick x 10" x 2" steel flat plate
>2 ea. - 5/16" X 3" bolts
>4 ea. - 5/16" nuts
>2 ea. - 1/4" x 2" bolts
>1 ea. - 1/4" lock nut & washers
>1 ea. - 1/2" OD steel tubing about 10" long
>1 ea. - 1 7/8" ball coupler and mounting hardware
>. . . .
>
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
One stop wish list for any gift,
from anywhere, for any occasion!
http://thewishzone.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 Control column |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Check where the sticks attach to the brackets that mount to the spar. You can
change washers inboard or outboard to modify the angle of the dangle. Actually,
you should first check that the spar attach brackets are correctly mounted......
After setting mine up it came out parallel - but I don't have enough threads left
to turn either heim joint a full turn inboard...that tells me that they're
close right out of the box.
Ralph Capen
-----Original Message-----
>From: Tim Bryan <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
>Sent: Apr 7, 2006 11:03 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 Control column
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
>
>Clive,
>
>I would make the sticks parallel to your liking by shortening the rod.
>Cutting it shorter if needed also. Mine are parallel and I have no idea
>what the length of the rod is.
>
>IMHO
>Tim
>
>-------Original Message-------
>
>From: Clive Whittfield
>Date: 04/07/06 01:58:11
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: RV6 Control column
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Clive Whittfield" <cazw@ihug.co.nz>
>
>Listers
>
>Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to
>DWG 41 I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the
>stated measurements. The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end
>bearings on the F-665 seems a little too long. With everything in place
>tops of the control sticks slope slightly inward ie the distance between the
>tops of the stick is about an inch less than down near the pivot points. I
>have wound the rod end bearings in as far as they can go, and have double
>checked all measurements making sure the weldments are correctly
>manufactured etc, and all seem to be correct. The easy fix would appear to
>simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but am reluctant to commit to that option
>without some advice first.
>
>Has anyone else struck this or am I missing something?
>
>Clive Whittfield
>New Zealand
>RV6 Fuselage
>
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV-12 question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steveadams" <dr_steve_adams@yahoo.com>
mrobert569(at)hotmail.com wrote:
> ELSA isn't going to go away but the sub-qualifications under ELA that covers
> existing aircraft may change. We will just have to wait and see how it goes
> and how to manage/manipulate it.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>
Actually, I think the "existing aircraft" qualification applies to ultralights
that have not been previously certified, so they can get the E-LSA certification
before 2008. It absolutely does not effect the rules that apply to other aircraft.
If someone buys an RV-12, they will have a choice to certify it either
as E-LSA or experimental, amateur built. In either case, it can be flown by a
sport pilot because it meets the definition of a LSA. The definition of an LSA
is based upon certain performance parameters, weight, and number of seats etc.
It is not in any way defined by the certification it receives, ie - standard,
E-LSA, S-LSA, or experimental, amateur built.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=26868#26868
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 Control column |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Allison <stevea@svpal.org>
Clive,
I had the same problem. My fix was to trim the F-655 ends and tap the
rod end holes deeper. Do what you need to make the control columns
parallel.
Steve
RV-6A
Clive Whittfield wrote:
> Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to DWG
41 I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the stated
measurements. The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end bearings on the
F-665 seems a little too long. With everything in place tops of the control
sticks slope slightly inward ie the distance between the tops of the stick is
about an inch less than down near the pivot points. I have wound the rod end
bearings in as far as they can go, and have double checked all measurements making
sure the weldments are correctly manufactured etc, and all seem to be correct.
The easy fix would appear to simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but am reluctant
to commit to that option without some advice first.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 Control column |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@comcast.net
Clive,
I had the same issue and solved it the same way Steve did as described below.
Do what you have to do to make it right.
--
Harry Crosby
RV-6 N16CX, 198 hours
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Steve Allison <stevea@svpal.org>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Steve Allison <stevea@svpal.org>
>
> Clive,
>
> I had the same problem. My fix was to trim the F-655 ends and tap the
> rod end holes deeper. Do what you need to make the control columns
> parallel.
>
> Steve
> RV-6A
>
>
>
> Clive Whittfield wrote:
> > Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to DWG
> 41 I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the stated
> measurements. The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end bearings on the
> F-665 seems a little too long. With everything in place tops of the control
> sticks slope slightly inward ie the distance between the tops of the stick is
> about an inch less than down near the pivot points. I have wound the rod end
> bearings in as far as they can go, and have double checked all measurements
> making sure the weldments are correctly manufactured etc, and all seem to be
> correct. The easy fix would appear to simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but
am
> reluctant to commit to that option without some advice first.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I have a VERY heavy left wing on my RV8A. Full aileron trim doesn't begin to correct
it. I measured the flap angles and found the left flap to be 1 degree
more up than the right flap. I also checked the wing incidence and found them
to be within 1/10 of a degree of each other. So, I'm contemplating cranking
the left flap down 1 degree and fly to test. However, I thought I'd ask if you
thought that was too big a change to make all at once from your testing experience
and in addition whether a single degree would be likely to make a big difference.
A related question is how can I tell whether the flaps are in neutral trail more
accurately than with the wing template. Maybe I should be raising the right
flap? With the wing at 0 degrees incidence, it would seem that neutral trail
on the flap would be a specific number of degrees as measured, say, across the
top of the flap. Do you know of such a number? I've never seen anything like
this on the list but I bet Vans design computer could spit this right out.
This would make it much easier to set the flap angle.
Dave Reel - RV8A - 3 hrs & a tired right arm.
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: dsvs@comcast.net
To set the flaps you need to first set the ailerons at 0 degrees relative to each
other. Do this by setting a straight edge along the tooling holes of the outboard
wing rib and align that with the trailing edge of the aileron. Do this
fon both wings independently. After the ailerons are set leave the straight
edge attached to one wing and set the ailerons to neutral (in alignment). The
flaps in the up position should align with the ailerons at this time. Another
thing to look at is that the flaps and alireons are not at an angle to the
wing inboard to outboard. Hope this helps. Don
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> I have a VERY heavy left wing on my RV8A. Full aileron trim doesn't begin to
> correct it. I measured the flap angles and found the left flap to be 1 degree
> more up than the right flap. I also checked the wing incidence and found them
> to be within 1/10 of a degree of each other. So, I'm contemplating cranking
the
> left flap down 1 degree and fly to test. However, I thought I'd ask if you
> thought that was too big a change to make all at once from your testing
> experience and in addition whether a single degree would be likely to make a
big
> difference.
>
> A related question is how can I tell whether the flaps are in neutral trail more
> accurately than with the wing template. Maybe I should be raising the right
> flap? With the wing at 0 degrees incidence, it would seem that neutral trail
on
> the flap would be a specific number of degrees as measured, say, across the top
T
> of the flap. Do you know of such a number? I've never seen anything like this
> on the list but I bet Vans design computer could spit this right out. This
> would make it much easier to set the flap angle.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A - 3 hrs & a tired right arm.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV6 Control column |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Steve, I had to do the same thing on my RV6-A.
Tom in
Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Allison" <stevea@svpal.org>
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 1:43 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6 Control column
> --> RV-List message posted by: Steve Allison <stevea@svpal.org>
>
> Clive,
>
> I had the same problem. My fix was to trim the F-655 ends and tap the
> rod end holes deeper. Do what you need to make the control columns
> parallel.
>
> Steve
> RV-6A
>
>
> Clive Whittfield wrote:
>> Trying to set up the control columns per the instructions and refering to
>> DWG 41 I find that I cannot get the sticks parallel while maintaining the
>> stated measurements. The 19 inch bolt centre measurement for the end
>> bearings on the F-665 seems a little too long. With everything in place
>> tops of the control sticks slope slightly inward ie the distance between
>> the tops of the stick is about an inch less than down near the pivot
>> points. I have wound the rod end bearings in as far as they can go, and
>> have double checked all measurements making sure the weldments are
>> correctly manufactured etc, and all seem to be correct. The easy fix
>> would appear to simply shorten the F-655 to suit, but am reluctant to
>> commit to that option without some advice first.
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Another thing to look for is the height of the aileron relative to the
wing. Despite my best efforts, my left flap was 3/16 or so low at the
outboard end. The ailerons can be set to the proper angle and still
cause a heavy wing. A new aileron hinge and about an hour of worked
cleared it right up.
Van's has a good write-up on the heavy wing problem.
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Heavy.pdf
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "charles heathco" <cheathco@junct.com>
Hey did anyone notice that your can get a new Moony s the same performance as our
planes for only $495k? Chas
Message 13
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| Subject: | Tight turns, how to keep from climbing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "charles heathco" <cheathco@junct.com>
Well, when I first got her I was suprised to find that my 6a would climb at about
500'm in a tight turn without me noticing it ( lots of cherokee time previous
which you gotta haul her back in a tight turn.) Still after a about 110 hrs
in her, if im flying along and see something I want to circle over, I pull a
heavy turn and next thing I know Im climbing 500' min. Anybody have a fool proof
method of automaticly setting the stick to prevennt this? (I was once know
as a very presicion pilot)
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Tight turns, how to keep from climbing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
charles heathco wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "charles heathco" <cheathco@junct.com>
>
>Well, when I first got her I was suprised to find that my 6a would climb at about
500'm in a tight turn without me noticing it ( lots of cherokee time previous
which you gotta haul her back in a tight turn.) Still after a about 110 hrs
in her, if im flying along and see something I want to circle over, I pull a
heavy turn and next thing I know Im climbing 500' min. Anybody have a fool proof
method of automaticly setting the stick to prevennt this? (I was once know
as a very presicion pilot)
>
>
>
relax your grip on the stick. :)
do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Any have a IO-360 with a Dualmag setup? |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
If so and you have a CS setup up, I have a couple of prop governor questions.
Please email me off line.
thanks
lucky
If so and you have a CS setup up, I have a couple of prop governor questions.
Please email me off line.
thanks
lucky
Message 16
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| Subject: | switching from slow build to QB |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Fenstermacher <davidfenster@comcast.net>
I have the wings on my slooooo 8 almost done.
I am thinking of switching to the quick build fuse.
I realize you have to send the center section back...
Anyone done this - and what was your experience?
Were there any "issues" from doing this. I wanna get this thing done!
Thanks,
Dave
Message 17
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| Subject: | Tight turns, how to keep from climbing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Practice , practice , practice. That's what it is all about - flying !!!
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: Chuck <chuck515tigger@yahoo.com>
Sure.... but the quality and structural integrity ain't half as good !
charles heathco <cheathco@junct.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "charles heathco"
Hey did anyone notice that your can get a new Moony s the same performance as our
planes for only $495k? Chas
---------------------------------
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: switching from slow build to QB |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I did this. There were no issues but the lead time was 9 months and the actual
time from when I ordered until it was on my door was
almost a year...
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: David Fenstermacher <davidfenster@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: switching from slow build to QB
> --> RV-List message posted by: David Fenstermacher
> <davidfenster@comcast.net>
>
> I have the wings on my slooooo 8 almost done.
> I am thinking of switching to the quick build fuse.
>
> I realize you have to send the center section back...
> Anyone done this - and what was your experience?
> Were there any "issues" from doing this. I wanna get this thing done!
>
> Thanks,
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> I have a VERY heavy left wing on my RV8A. Full aileron trim doesn't
> begin to correct it. I measured the flap angles and found the left
> flap to be 1 degree more up than the right flap. I also checked the
> wing incidence and found them to be within 1/10 of a degree of each
> other. So, I'm contemplating cranking the left flap down 1 degree
> and fly to test. However, I thought I'd ask if you thought that was
> too big a change to make all at once from your testing experience and
> in addition whether a single degree would be likely to make a big
> difference.
Dave,
While flying, if you bring your flaps down just a hair, do you
notice any difference in the wing heaviness? I'd personally be
more inclined to bring the right flap up a hair rather than move
the left flap down. Of course, this makes a lot of assumptions
about your exact installation. Do you have any "guru" builders
in your area who could come have a look?
The other suggestions have been great, and I've read here
on the list that you can get a lot of effect from the aileron
squeezing method.
Good luck - and let us know what you learn!
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
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