Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:02 AM - Re: Interpreting Aileron Position (DAVID REEL)
2. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: Interpreting Aileron Position (Sam Buchanan)
3. 10:39 AM - OT shipping help request from Darien, Illinois (Chris W)
4. 11:37 AM - ground power jack (Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com)
5. 12:22 PM - Re: ground power jack (Richard Dudley)
6. 12:22 PM - Re: ground power jack (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
7. 01:28 PM - Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! (John Fasching)
8. 02:30 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant ! (Ron Lee)
9. 02:57 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant ! (Rquinn1@aol.com)
10. 03:22 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! (Jerry Springer)
11. 03:57 PM - Re: RV-10 Kits / with Core I0-540-C4-B5 (Paul Besing)
12. 04:03 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! (tomvelvick)
13. 04:03 PM - throttle bracket for superior io 360 (Dave Cudney)
14. 04:34 PM - SEC: Unclassified: RV-10 Kits / with Core I0-540-C4-B5 (Jardine, David FLTLT)
15. 04:34 PM - Drilling out screws (was: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant !) (Bill Dube)
16. 04:41 PM - Ground Power Jack (danbergeronham@aol.com)
17. 04:50 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! (JOHN STARN)
18. 04:51 PM - Cheap fuel (Ron Lee)
19. 05:39 PM - Re: Ground Power Jack (Larry Bowen)
20. 05:56 PM - Re: Ground Power Jack (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
21. 05:59 PM - Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360 (Tailgummer@aol.com)
22. 06:00 PM - Re: ground power jack (Curt Reimer)
23. 06:42 PM - idle air fuel (Wheeler North)
24. 07:12 PM - Re: Lyc 0290G (Sherman Butler)
25. 07:12 PM - Re: Drilling out screws (was: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant !) (Mark Grieve)
26. 07:24 PM - Re: ground power jack (Ron Lee)
27. 08:06 PM - [ Richard Dudley ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Interpreting Aileron Position |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I'm getting nearer the solution to trimming up my RV8A's roll tendencies.
After a long conversation with Rick McBride, who has an RV8 hangered near
me, I now believe that changing pushrod lengths in the aileron control
system will not affect roll tendency. It will just affect how closely to
the neutral trail position the ailerons balance in-flight. This affects
drag, but since the up (or down) force on both ailerons is the same,
otherwise they wouldn't balance, there cannot be any contribution to roll.
Somehow, in all the discussion of trailing edge squeezing, I forgot that you
can just make a temporary trim tab and try it. I was delaying making any
change because I thought of it as permanent. But, I went back to read Vans
instruction book & now am trying various lengths of trim tab. One useful
observation in the instructions was that unless the trim tab exceeds 6
inches in length, the rest of the airplane is not seriously out of trim. So
I tried a wedge 3" wide, 1/4" high, and 1.5 inches long. Voila! trim was
now within range of the manual trim system to correct. What a relief & how
much more enjoyable to fly with fingertip control. The aileron position in
flight still looks backward, as though it's trying to roll the airplane left
when in fact a right roll correction is being input by the trim tab, but I'm
much less worried about serious structural misalignment now so I've
relegated explaning that to the far back burner.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Interpreting Aileron Position |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Dave, glad to hear you are getting the aileron trim sorted out.
I am curious about something; during our flight back from Sun-N-Fun, I
talked to a pilot flying near the Florida panhandle who had a new RV-8
"toy" and in the course of our chat we briefly discussed roll trim. Was
that you? :-)
If in our area, don't hesitate to jump to north Alabama sometime and
share a fly-in breakfast with us.
Best regards,
Sam Buchanan
Tennessee Valley RV Builders Group
http://www.tvrvbg.org
=====================
DAVID REEL wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> I'm getting nearer the solution to trimming up my RV8A's roll tendencies.
> After a long conversation with Rick McBride, who has an RV8 hangered near
> me, I now believe that changing pushrod lengths in the aileron control
> system will not affect roll tendency. It will just affect how closely to
> the neutral trail position the ailerons balance in-flight. This affects
> drag, but since the up (or down) force on both ailerons is the same,
> otherwise they wouldn't balance, there cannot be any contribution to roll.
>
> Somehow, in all the discussion of trailing edge squeezing, I forgot that you
> can just make a temporary trim tab and try it. I was delaying making any
> change because I thought of it as permanent. But, I went back to read Vans
> instruction book & now am trying various lengths of trim tab. One useful
> observation in the instructions was that unless the trim tab exceeds 6
> inches in length, the rest of the airplane is not seriously out of trim. So
> I tried a wedge 3" wide, 1/4" high, and 1.5 inches long. Voila! trim was
> now within range of the manual trim system to correct. What a relief & how
> much more enjoyable to fly with fingertip control. The aileron position in
> flight still looks backward, as though it's trying to roll the airplane left
> when in fact a right roll correction is being input by the trim tab, but I'm
> much less worried about serious structural misalignment now so I've
> relegated explaning that to the far back burner.
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 3
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| Subject: | OT shipping help request from Darien, Illinois |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <3edcft6@cox.net>
Not RV related and not airplane related.
I was wondering if any one living in the are of Darien, Illinois, out
side of Chicago, would be willing to pack and ship a package to me that
I am bidding on in an eBay auction. It is 200 feet of large coaxial
cable in a coil that looks to be about 24" in diameter. The cable
weight is about 55lbs, the total shipping weight will be in the 60 lbs
range, which will cost $35 to ship UPS. The seller refuses to ship and
will only sell to someone willing to pick it up. I would be willing to
pay $25 over the shipping costs to anyone willing to do this for me.
This is all dependent on me winning the auction though which ends in 6 days.
do not archive
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
One stop wish list for any gift,
from anywhere, for any occasion!
http://thewishzone.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | ground power jack |
--> RV-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com
Anybody gone to the trouble of installing a ground power jack on their RV?
I have the materials to do this, as outlined at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grndpwr.pdf
but havent made up my mind. Not quite sure where to mount it / how to
access it, and its kind of an ugly fixture to have showing on the outside.
Has anyone done any spiffy access doors for one of these? Did you put it
on the cowling or back on the aluminum skin?
regards,
Erich Weaver
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: ground power jack |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1@bellsouth.net>
Erich,
I used Bob Nuckolls suggestions for jack modification, installation and
circuitry per the article you cited. I sent a photo of the jack
installation to Photo Share. The location of the jack is a my compromise
to keep the heavy cable short. Others have placed the jack farther away
from the front of the aircraft for safety reasons. To date, I have not
used the connection for engine start. It is especially handy for running
the electrical system on the ground to save the battery and for charging
the battery. I have a battery charger that I use for the power source. I
connect it to the mating plug when I want to charge the battery or run
the electrical system.
I don't have a close-up photo of the jack area after painting. I find it
unobtrusive after painting. You can judge whether it is obtrusive before
painting.
Regards,
Richard Dudley
-6A flying
Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com
>
>Anybody gone to the trouble of installing a ground power jack on their RV?
>I have the materials to do this, as outlined at
>
>http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grndpwr.pdf
>
>but havent made up my mind. Not quite sure where to mount it / how to
>access it, and its kind of an ugly fixture to have showing on the outside.
>Has anyone done any spiffy access doors for one of these? Did you put it
>on the cowling or back on the aluminum skin?
>
>regards,
>
>Erich Weaver
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | ground power jack |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
http://tinyurl.com/kyrdt
do not archive
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 2:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: ground power jack
--> RV-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com
Anybody gone to the trouble of installing a ground power jack on their
RV?
I have the materials to do this, as outlined at
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grndpwr.pdf
but havent made up my mind. Not quite sure where to mount it / how to
access it, and its kind of an ugly fixture to have showing on the
outside.
Has anyone done any spiffy access doors for one of these? Did you put
it
on the cowling or back on the aluminum skin?
regards,
Erich Weaver
Message 7
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| Subject: | Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Hit your delete button NOW if you don't want to read a rant by a very =
angry RV builder
DO NOT ARCHIVE
My RV6A has been in the air for two months short of 11-years now. =
Trouble free essentially.
Against my better judgment I decided to do the SB thing for the fuel =
tank pickup tube coupling nut.
Naturally 4 screws were frozen and refused every effort at removal. I =
finally had to take off the heads in anticipation of removing the stub =
of the screw with a small vice-grip pliers after the tank was off.
Surprise! The tank won't come off. It is stuck so that only damaging =
force could remove it. I suspect, but do not actually know, that ProSeal =
locked the back of the tank against the spar. Anyway whatever it is, =
there is no way short of destroying the tank and/or the spar that the =
tank can be removed.
Now I face what to do with the four screws that have drilled off heads.
I really wish the builder that is responsible for this whole mess was at =
hand. It wouldn't be pretty.
Thanks Van for the heavy-handed handling of this matter.
John at Salida, CO
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant ! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>Now I face what to do with the four screws that have drilled off heads.
Can you drill the proper size hole to use an Easy Out? Only marginally
related to your case but I have learned the hard (ie stupid) way that once
a screw becomes partially stripped (where you place the phillips driver)
it is best to throw it away. Screws are mucho cheaper than the time wasted
in getting them out.
Ron Lee
Do not archive
PS paid $3.029 for 100LL yesterday.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant ! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rquinn1@aol.com
Where?
Rollie & Rod
6A
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
John Fasching wrote:
>
>Thanks Van for the heavy-handed handling of this matter.
>
>John at Salida, CO
>
>
>
>
Nonsense, maybe you would rather Van did nothing and let some people die
when they were aware of
a potential problem. You did not have to comply if you did not want to
it was your choice.
Jerry(wonder why people whine so much)Springer
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 Kits / with Core I0-540-C4-B5 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
$32,500 for three kits, and a core? I'll take it :-).
do not archive
Paul Besing
--- passpat@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: passpat@aol.com
>
> Hello List
> I have the first 3 RV-10 kits never opened just
> as recieved plus I0-540-C4B5 first run est 1400 hr
> core. if interrested repley to passpat@aol.com
> $32,500.00 make offer.
>
> Pat
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick@cox.net>
Hi John,
I have removed tanks from two rvs that were made in the 80s
to comply with this SB and/or put new senders in.
Both tanks initially seemed to be "welded on but I was able to get them out by
using a wedge between the front fuselage attach bracket on the fuselage and the
attach bracket on the tank. I had to pound the wedge in between the brackets
but it popped all four tanks out from the spar without a problem.
I wonder if something like this would work for you?
On one of the tanks I pulled off the fuel pickup tube was about one inch from the
bottom of the tank so I didnt have as much usable fuel in there as I thought.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
RV-4 N53KT
RV-4 N7053L
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33501#33501
Message 13
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| Subject: | throttle bracket for superior io 360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Cudney <yenduc@sbcglobal.net>
I have a Superior XP+ io360 with a composite sump and forward facing
Precision EX injection.
The throttle bracket that comes with Vans firewall foreword kit. will
not work.
The Composite sump mounting points are spaced differently and are
angled.
Has anyone out there encountered this problem and what has been the
solution
thanks
RV 7A N554DL
dave
Message 14
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| Subject: | RV-10 Kits / with Core I0-540-C4-B5 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jardine, David FLTLT" <David.Jardine@defence.gov.au>
$32,501 is my offer! ;-)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Besing
Sent: Tuesday, 9 May 2006 8:52
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10 Kits / with Core I0-540-C4-B5
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
$32,500 for three kits, and a core? I'll take it :-).
do not archive
Paul Besing
--- passpat@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: passpat@aol.com
>
> Hello List
> I have the first 3 RV-10 kits never opened just
> as recieved plus I0-540-C4B5 first run est 1400 hr
> core. if interrested repley to passpat@aol.com
> $32,500.00 make offer.
>
> Pat
> do not archive
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
=
=
=
=
Message 15
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| Subject: | Drilling out screws (was: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant |
!)
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <william.p.dube@noaa.gov>
I have found that if you start with a small drill and slowly increase
the size, you can drill out the center of the screw with minimal damage
to the threads in the hole. This is because the screw threads are harder
than the body of the screw and tend to guide the drill toward the
center. If you increment the drill size slowly, all that will be left is
the threads. You can pull them out with a needle nose if they don't
simply wrap around the last drill.
Bill Dube'
Ron Lee wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>
>
>
>
>>Now I face what to do with the four screws that have drilled off heads.
>>
>>
>
>Can you drill the proper size hole to use an Easy Out? Only marginally
>related to your case but I have learned the hard (ie stupid) way that once
>a screw becomes partially stripped (where you place the phillips driver)
>it is best to throw it away. Screws are mucho cheaper than the time wasted
>in getting them out.
>
>Ron Lee
>
>Do not archive
>
>
>PS paid $3.029 for 100LL yesterday.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Ground Power Jack |
--> RV-List message posted by: danbergeronham@aol.com
Erich:
I too am at the stage in fuselage construction where I've been thinking about placement
of the ground power jack. I suppose, like so many other things w/ airplanes,
it's a compromise, in this case among length of cable, size of cable,
weight and safety. I have definitely decided not to place it anywhere forward
of the wing leading edge for safety reasons. That leaves the side or bottom
of the fuse further aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless you're
real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate a neat looking,
unobtrusive access panel for the side of the fuse, I guess I'd put it on the
bottom somewhere near the trailing edge of the wing. I'm leaning in that direction.
Of course that means a bit of voltage drop or a heavier cable (the compromise
thing) and going down on your hands and knees every time you want to use
it; but then how often is that going to happen? Probably only when the airplane
is parked in the snow, wet grass or mud.
Happy building,
Dan Bergeron
Chicopee, MA
RV-7A (fuse completion targeted for Christmas 06)
N-307TB (Reserved)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
I assume that you used a paint cutter on the screwheads to allow for better
screw removal & cleared the heads of paint before starting to apply removal
twist. Then cut the paint on the tank/wing lines and took into consideration
that the "seal" between the tank & wing might be paint that ran into the
gap. We are going to pull the tanks on HRII N561FS as soon as we get the new
hanger in shape. KABONG Do Not Archive
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant !
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
>
> Hit your delete button NOW if you don't want to read a rant by a very =
> angry RV builder
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
> My RV6A has been in the air for two months short of 11-years now. =
> Trouble free essentially.
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
It was Limon CO
>Where?
>Rollie & Rod
>6A
Do not archive
Message 19
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| Subject: | Ground Power Jack |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Another alternative is to wire a Battery Tender type trickle charger to the
battery and secure the plug near the oil door. It wouldn't provide a
instant jump to a dead battery, but after 30 minutes you would have enough
umph to crank (personal experience). It also provides juice when working on
avionics for extended periods. No other special connectors needed, just an
extension cord. I keep the tender plug in my travel tool kit.
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 180 Hrs.
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: danbergeronham@aol.com [mailto:danbergeronham@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 7:39 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Jack
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: danbergeronham@aol.com
>
> Erich:
>
> I too am at the stage in fuselage construction where I've
> been thinking about placement of the ground power jack. I
> suppose, like so many other things w/ airplanes, it's a
> compromise, in this case among length of cable, size of
> cable, weight and safety. I have definitely decided not to
> place it anywhere forward of the wing leading edge for safety
> reasons. That leaves the side or bottom of the fuse further
> aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless you're
> real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate
> a neat looking, unobtrusive access panel for the side of the
> fuse, I guess I'd put it on the bottom somewhere near the
> trailing edge of the wing. I'm leaning in that direction.
> Of course that means a bit of voltage drop or a heavier cable
> (the compromise thing) and going down on your hands and knees
> every time you want to use it; but then how often is that
> going to happen? Probably only when the airplane is parked
> in the snow, wet grass or mud.
>
> Happy building,
>
> Dan Bergeron
> Chicopee, MA
> RV-7A (fuse completion targeted for Christmas 06) N-307TB (Reserved)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Ground Power Jack |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I did a hybrid. I bought the piper ground power jacks and in the end decided not
to put then in as they were just massive, heavy. But I have my battery in
the back (RV8) and my battery tender maintenance connector was not going to work
out like it would have if the battery was on the firewall and one could get
access through the oil service door.
So I bought a heavy duty 12 volt all weather, spring loaded door cigarette style
power plug and mounted it on the bottom of the fuse in the bay just behind the
battery. I modified the battery tender output chords to use a cigarrete ligher
style plug and now I plug my battery tender in all the time at the hangar
and can still close and lock the canopy.
Odyssey battery stays in top form this way.
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
>
> Another alternative is to wire a Battery Tender type trickle charger to the
> battery and secure the plug near the oil door. It wouldn't provide a
> instant jump to a dead battery, but after 30 minutes you would have enough
> umph to crank (personal experience). It also provides juice when working on
> avionics for extended periods. No other special connectors needed, just an
> extension cord. I keep the tender plug in my travel tool kit.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, RV-8 180 Hrs.
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: danbergeronham@aol.com [mailto:danbergeronham@aol.com]
> > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 7:39 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Jack
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: danbergeronham@aol.com
> >
> > Erich:
> >
> > I too am at the stage in fuselage construction where I've
> > been thinking about placement of the ground power jack. I
> > suppose, like so many other things w/ airplanes, it's a
> > compromise, in this case among length of cable, size of
> > cable, weight and safety. I have definitely decided not to
> > place it anywhere forward of the wing leading edge for safety
> > reasons. That leaves the side or bottom of the fuse further
> > aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless you're
> > real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate
> > a neat looking, unobtrusive access panel for the side of the
> > fuse, I guess I'd put it on the bottom somewhere near the
> > trailing edge of the wing. I'm leaning in that direction.
> > Of course that means a bit of voltage drop or a heavier cable
> > (the compromise thing) and going down on your hands and knees
> > every time you want to use it; but then how often is that
> > going to happen? Probably only when the airplane is parked
> > in the snow, wet grass or mud.
> >
> > Happy building,
> >
> > Dan Bergeron
> > Chicopee, MA
> > RV-7A (fuse completion targeted for Christmas 06) N-307TB (Reserved)
> >
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<html><body>
<DIV>I did a hybrid. I bought the piper ground power jacks and in the end
decided not to put then in as they were just massive, heavy. But I have
my battery in the back (RV8) and my battery tender maintenance connector was
not going to work out like it would have if the battery was on the firewall
and one could get access through the oil service door.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>So I bought a heavy duty 12 volt all weather, spring loaded door cigarette
style power plug and mounted it on the bottom of the fuse in the bay just
behind the battery. I modified the battery tender output chords to
use a cigarrete ligher style plug and now I plug my battery tender in all the
time at the hangar and can still close and lock the canopy.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Odyssey battery stays in top form this way.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com> <BR><BR>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <LARRY@BOWENAERO.COM><BR>> <BR>> Another alternative is to wire a Battery Tender type trickle charger to the <BR>> battery and secure the plug near the oil door. It wouldn't provide a <BR>> instant jump to a dead battery, but after 30 minutes you would have enough <BR>> umph to crank (personal experience). It also provides juice when working on <BR>> avionics for extended periods. No other special connectors needed, just an <BR>> extension cord. I keep the tender plug in my travel tool kit. <BR>> <BR>> - <BR>> Larry Bowen, RV-8 180 Hrs. <BR>> Larry@BowenAero.com <BR>> http://BowenAero.com <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> > -----Original Message----- <BR>> > From: danbergeronham@aol.com [mailto:
danber
geronham@aol.com] <BR>> > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 7:39 PM <BR>> >
To: rv-list@matronics.com <BR>> > Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Jack
<BR>> > <BR>> > --> RV-List message posted by: danbergeronham@aol.com
<BR>> > <BR>> > Erich: <BR>> > <BR>> > I too am
at the stage in fuselage construction where I've <BR>> > been thinking
about placement of the ground power jack. I <BR>> > suppose, like so many
other things w/ airplanes, it's a <BR>> > compromise, in this case among
length of cable, size of <BR>> > cable, weight and safety. I have definitely
decided not to <BR>> > place it anywhere forward of the wing leading
edge for safety <BR>> > reasons. That leaves the side or bottom of
the fuse further <BR>> > aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless
you're <BR>> > real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate
<BR>> > a neat looking, unobtrusive acc
ess pa
======
; <BR>
> <BR>> <BR>> <BR>> </BLOCKQUOTE></body></html>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tailgummer@aol.com
Dave,
you may wish to visit the precision website (precisionairmotive dot com)
and see some installation photos, or call Paul Kalgren there. Paul is a
wealth of information. Have you also discussed this with Superior? I'm sure
they'd help as well.
John D'Onofrio RV8
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: ground power jack |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mts.net>
I agonized over this, as with so many other building decisions, and decided
it wasn't worth it to install a ground power jack. If you install one you
have buy it, do the extra work, and then carry around a pound or so of
useless weight for the life of the plane.
I've flown my plane through three Canadian winters without a starting
problem. That's in an unheated hangar at -30F with preheat prior to starting
and a number of sub-freezing parking ramps at distant airports with NO
preheat. It helps to have a good quality battery, and to change it often. I
hope my new PC680 does as well as my old Concorde 25RG-XC that I just
retired.
One trick to avoid the dreaded left-the-master-on is to always leave your
strobe switch in the on position as a "master power warning". Never left my
master on once since I started doing that (thanks Doug Rozendahl). Also gets
people's attention at start up.
But okay, what if? If the time ever comes that I have a dead battery, and
I'm sure it will, I can bear pulling off the battery cover to gain access.
Or I can slow charge the battery through my accessory jack. In my tool bag I
carry a 12V cigar lighter plug with short wires attached so that I can hook
up a battery charger. The plug weighs maybe an ounce. The battery charger
I'll borrow or buy, or even hook up jumper cables to a car and slow charge
it off the car battery. There are multiple ways to revive your plane in a
pinch.
To paraphrase Henry Ford, parts left off the airplane cost nothing, weigh
nothing and don't cause future service problems. If you are going to invest
time and aircraft weight to cover for some rare contingency, at least make
it an airborne contingency.
Curt
RV-6 C-GACR
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
<<<<<<<<<<Guys, I'm getting almost no RPM rise when I pull the mixture to
idle cutoff at shutdown, and occasionally get some hesitation when I apply
full throttle for a go-around. Which probably means my idle mixture setting
is too lean. I don't have a manual for the MA-4-5 carb on my O-360 so I'm
wondering if anybody remembers which way I turn the screw to make it richer?
>>>>>>>>>>>>
M,
The plate the screw is in often has cool little indicator arrows....
hesitation is more likely the accelerator pump or mild MAP leak or dirty
plug, the idle circuit is off during anything above 1/8 throttle.
W
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sherman Butler <lsbrv7a@yahoo.com>
When I looked at the 290 for a Yankee conversion I decided the engine had to be
nearly free to afford the overhaul. It was used sucessfully in the past when
the parts were more plentiful. The 320 has more power for the same money and
weight was my conclusion.
Do not Archive.
Rvbuilder1@aol.com wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Rvbuilder1@aol.com
Anyone know about converting a Lyc 0290G for aircraft use
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Wings
Idaho Falls
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates.
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Drilling out screws (was: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad |
Rant !)
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Before you start drilling, try a Craftsman precision Phillips
screwdriver. They have a sandblasted tip that really grips. Another
trick that I used was to drive an Allen wrench into the hole drilled
through the screw. I didn't have an easy out that was small enough and
this did the trick. I was really cursing Cessna by the end of that project.
Mark
Bill Dube wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <william.p.dube@noaa.gov>
>
> I have found that if you start with a small drill and slowly increase
> the size, you can drill out the center of the screw with minimal damage
> to the threads in the hole. This is because the screw threads are harder
> than the body of the screw and tend to guide the drill toward the
> center. If you increment the drill size slowly, all that will be left is
> the threads. You can pull them out with a needle nose if they don't
> simply wrap around the last drill.
>
> Bill Dube'
>
> Ron Lee wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>Now I face what to do with the four screws that have drilled off heads.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Can you drill the proper size hole to use an Easy Out? Only marginally
>>related to your case but I have learned the hard (ie stupid) way that once
>>a screw becomes partially stripped (where you place the phillips driver)
>>it is best to throw it away. Screws are mucho cheaper than the time wasted
>>in getting them out.
>>
>>Ron Lee
>>
>>Do not archive
>>
>>
>>PS paid $3.029 for 100LL yesterday.
>>
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--
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Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: ground power jack |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
My plane just has a HOT lead to the battery positive (ground is the frame).
Just hook up to the wire that hangs down at the lower cowl opening and
the frame.
Ron Lee
Message 27
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| Subject: | [ Richard Dudley ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Richard Dudley <rhdudley1@bellsouth.net>
Lists: AeroElectric-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List,RV-List
Subject: Groundpower jack
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rhdudley1@bellsouth.net.05.08.2006/index.html
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