---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 05/08/06: 27 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 08:02 AM - Re: Interpreting Aileron Position (DAVID REEL) 2. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: Interpreting Aileron Position (Sam Buchanan) 3. 10:39 AM - OT shipping help request from Darien, Illinois (Chris W) 4. 11:37 AM - ground power jack (Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com) 5. 12:22 PM - Re: ground power jack (Richard Dudley) 6. 12:22 PM - Re: ground power jack (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 7. 01:28 PM - Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! (John Fasching) 8. 02:30 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant ! (Ron Lee) 9. 02:57 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant ! (Rquinn1@aol.com) 10. 03:22 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! (Jerry Springer) 11. 03:57 PM - Re: RV-10 Kits / with Core I0-540-C4-B5 (Paul Besing) 12. 04:03 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! (tomvelvick) 13. 04:03 PM - throttle bracket for superior io 360 (Dave Cudney) 14. 04:34 PM - SEC: Unclassified: RV-10 Kits / with Core I0-540-C4-B5 (Jardine, David FLTLT) 15. 04:34 PM - Drilling out screws (was: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant !) (Bill Dube) 16. 04:41 PM - Ground Power Jack (danbergeronham@aol.com) 17. 04:50 PM - Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! (JOHN STARN) 18. 04:51 PM - Cheap fuel (Ron Lee) 19. 05:39 PM - Re: Ground Power Jack (Larry Bowen) 20. 05:56 PM - Re: Ground Power Jack (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)) 21. 05:59 PM - Re: throttle bracket for superior io 360 (Tailgummer@aol.com) 22. 06:00 PM - Re: ground power jack (Curt Reimer) 23. 06:42 PM - idle air fuel (Wheeler North) 24. 07:12 PM - Re: Lyc 0290G (Sherman Butler) 25. 07:12 PM - Re: Drilling out screws (was: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant !) (Mark Grieve) 26. 07:24 PM - Re: ground power jack (Ron Lee) 27. 08:06 PM - [ Richard Dudley ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 08:02:41 AM PST US From: "DAVID REEL" Subject: RV-List: Re: Interpreting Aileron Position --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" I'm getting nearer the solution to trimming up my RV8A's roll tendencies. After a long conversation with Rick McBride, who has an RV8 hangered near me, I now believe that changing pushrod lengths in the aileron control system will not affect roll tendency. It will just affect how closely to the neutral trail position the ailerons balance in-flight. This affects drag, but since the up (or down) force on both ailerons is the same, otherwise they wouldn't balance, there cannot be any contribution to roll. Somehow, in all the discussion of trailing edge squeezing, I forgot that you can just make a temporary trim tab and try it. I was delaying making any change because I thought of it as permanent. But, I went back to read Vans instruction book & now am trying various lengths of trim tab. One useful observation in the instructions was that unless the trim tab exceeds 6 inches in length, the rest of the airplane is not seriously out of trim. So I tried a wedge 3" wide, 1/4" high, and 1.5 inches long. Voila! trim was now within range of the manual trim system to correct. What a relief & how much more enjoyable to fly with fingertip control. The aileron position in flight still looks backward, as though it's trying to roll the airplane left when in fact a right roll correction is being input by the trim tab, but I'm much less worried about serious structural misalignment now so I've relegated explaning that to the far back burner. Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 09:08:43 AM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Interpreting Aileron Position --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan Dave, glad to hear you are getting the aileron trim sorted out. I am curious about something; during our flight back from Sun-N-Fun, I talked to a pilot flying near the Florida panhandle who had a new RV-8 "toy" and in the course of our chat we briefly discussed roll trim. Was that you? :-) If in our area, don't hesitate to jump to north Alabama sometime and share a fly-in breakfast with us. Best regards, Sam Buchanan Tennessee Valley RV Builders Group http://www.tvrvbg.org ===================== DAVID REEL wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" > > I'm getting nearer the solution to trimming up my RV8A's roll tendencies. > After a long conversation with Rick McBride, who has an RV8 hangered near > me, I now believe that changing pushrod lengths in the aileron control > system will not affect roll tendency. It will just affect how closely to > the neutral trail position the ailerons balance in-flight. This affects > drag, but since the up (or down) force on both ailerons is the same, > otherwise they wouldn't balance, there cannot be any contribution to roll. > > Somehow, in all the discussion of trailing edge squeezing, I forgot that you > can just make a temporary trim tab and try it. I was delaying making any > change because I thought of it as permanent. But, I went back to read Vans > instruction book & now am trying various lengths of trim tab. One useful > observation in the instructions was that unless the trim tab exceeds 6 > inches in length, the rest of the airplane is not seriously out of trim. So > I tried a wedge 3" wide, 1/4" high, and 1.5 inches long. Voila! trim was > now within range of the manual trim system to correct. What a relief & how > much more enjoyable to fly with fingertip control. The aileron position in > flight still looks backward, as though it's trying to roll the airplane left > when in fact a right roll correction is being input by the trim tab, but I'm > much less worried about serious structural misalignment now so I've > relegated explaning that to the far back burner. > > Dave Reel - RV8A ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 10:39:33 AM PST US From: Chris W <3edcft6@cox.net> Subject: RV-List: OT shipping help request from Darien, Illinois --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <3edcft6@cox.net> Not RV related and not airplane related. I was wondering if any one living in the are of Darien, Illinois, out side of Chicago, would be willing to pack and ship a package to me that I am bidding on in an eBay auction. It is 200 feet of large coaxial cable in a coil that looks to be about 24" in diameter. The cable weight is about 55lbs, the total shipping weight will be in the 60 lbs range, which will cost $35 to ship UPS. The seller refuses to ship and will only sell to someone willing to pick it up. I would be willing to pay $25 over the shipping costs to anyone willing to do this for me. This is all dependent on me winning the auction though which ends in 6 days. do not archive -- Chris W KE5GIX Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want One stop wish list for any gift, from anywhere, for any occasion! http://thewishzone.com ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 11:37:55 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: ground power jack From: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com --> RV-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com Anybody gone to the trouble of installing a ground power jack on their RV? I have the materials to do this, as outlined at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grndpwr.pdf but havent made up my mind. Not quite sure where to mount it / how to access it, and its kind of an ugly fixture to have showing on the outside. Has anyone done any spiffy access doors for one of these? Did you put it on the cowling or back on the aluminum skin? regards, Erich Weaver ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 12:22:25 PM PST US From: Richard Dudley Subject: Re: RV-List: ground power jack --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley Erich, I used Bob Nuckolls suggestions for jack modification, installation and circuitry per the article you cited. I sent a photo of the jack installation to Photo Share. The location of the jack is a my compromise to keep the heavy cable short. Others have placed the jack farther away from the front of the aircraft for safety reasons. To date, I have not used the connection for engine start. It is especially handy for running the electrical system on the ground to save the battery and for charging the battery. I have a battery charger that I use for the power source. I connect it to the mating plug when I want to charge the battery or run the electrical system. I don't have a close-up photo of the jack area after painting. I find it unobtrusive after painting. You can judge whether it is obtrusive before painting. Regards, Richard Dudley -6A flying Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com > >Anybody gone to the trouble of installing a ground power jack on their RV? >I have the materials to do this, as outlined at > >http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grndpwr.pdf > >but havent made up my mind. Not quite sure where to mount it / how to >access it, and its kind of an ugly fixture to have showing on the outside. >Has anyone done any spiffy access doors for one of these? Did you put it >on the cowling or back on the aluminum skin? > >regards, > >Erich Weaver > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 12:22:34 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: ground power jack From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" http://tinyurl.com/kyrdt do not archive Mike -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 2:34 PM Subject: RV-List: ground power jack --> RV-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com Anybody gone to the trouble of installing a ground power jack on their RV? I have the materials to do this, as outlined at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/grndpwr.pdf but havent made up my mind. Not quite sure where to mount it / how to access it, and its kind of an ugly fixture to have showing on the outside. Has anyone done any spiffy access doors for one of these? Did you put it on the cowling or back on the aluminum skin? regards, Erich Weaver ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 01:28:10 PM PST US From: "John Fasching" Subject: RV-List: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! --> RV-List message posted by: "John Fasching" Hit your delete button NOW if you don't want to read a rant by a very = angry RV builder DO NOT ARCHIVE My RV6A has been in the air for two months short of 11-years now. = Trouble free essentially. Against my better judgment I decided to do the SB thing for the fuel = tank pickup tube coupling nut. Naturally 4 screws were frozen and refused every effort at removal. I = finally had to take off the heads in anticipation of removing the stub = of the screw with a small vice-grip pliers after the tank was off. Surprise! The tank won't come off. It is stuck so that only damaging = force could remove it. I suspect, but do not actually know, that ProSeal = locked the back of the tank against the spar. Anyway whatever it is, = there is no way short of destroying the tank and/or the spar that the = tank can be removed. Now I face what to do with the four screws that have drilled off heads. I really wish the builder that is responsible for this whole mess was at = hand. It wouldn't be pretty. Thanks Van for the heavy-handed handling of this matter. John at Salida, CO ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 02:30:47 PM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant ! --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee >Now I face what to do with the four screws that have drilled off heads. Can you drill the proper size hole to use an Easy Out? Only marginally related to your case but I have learned the hard (ie stupid) way that once a screw becomes partially stripped (where you place the phillips driver) it is best to throw it away. Screws are mucho cheaper than the time wasted in getting them out. Ron Lee Do not archive PS paid $3.029 for 100LL yesterday. ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 02:57:48 PM PST US From: Rquinn1@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant ! --> RV-List message posted by: Rquinn1@aol.com Where? Rollie & Rod 6A ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 03:22:06 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer John Fasching wrote: > >Thanks Van for the heavy-handed handling of this matter. > >John at Salida, CO > > > > Nonsense, maybe you would rather Van did nothing and let some people die when they were aware of a potential problem. You did not have to comply if you did not want to it was your choice. Jerry(wonder why people whine so much)Springer DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 03:57:22 PM PST US From: Paul Besing Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10 Kits / with Core I0-540-C4-B5 --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing $32,500 for three kits, and a core? I'll take it :-). do not archive Paul Besing --- passpat@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: passpat@aol.com > > Hello List > I have the first 3 RV-10 kits never opened just > as recieved plus I0-540-C4B5 first run est 1400 hr > core. if interrested repley to passpat@aol.com > $32,500.00 make offer. > > Pat > do not archive > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > Admin. > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 04:03:26 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! From: "tomvelvick" --> RV-List message posted by: "tomvelvick" Hi John, I have removed tanks from two rvs that were made in the 80s to comply with this SB and/or put new senders in. Both tanks initially seemed to be "welded on but I was able to get them out by using a wedge between the front fuselage attach bracket on the fuselage and the attach bracket on the tank. I had to pound the wedge in between the brackets but it popped all four tanks out from the spar without a problem. I wonder if something like this would work for you? On one of the tanks I pulled off the fuel pickup tube was about one inch from the bottom of the tank so I didnt have as much usable fuel in there as I thought. Regards, Tom Velvick RV-4 N53KT RV-4 N7053L Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=33501#33501 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 04:03:26 PM PST US From: Dave Cudney Subject: RV-List: throttle bracket for superior io 360 --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Cudney I have a Superior XP+ io360 with a composite sump and forward facing Precision EX injection. The throttle bracket that comes with Vans firewall foreword kit. will not work. The Composite sump mounting points are spaced differently and are angled. Has anyone out there encountered this problem and what has been the solution thanks RV 7A N554DL dave ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 04:34:01 PM PST US Subject: SEC: Unclassified: RV-List: RV-10 Kits / with Core I0-540-C4-B5 From: "Jardine, David FLTLT" --> RV-List message posted by: "Jardine, David FLTLT" $32,501 is my offer! ;-) -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Paul Besing Sent: Tuesday, 9 May 2006 8:52 Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-10 Kits / with Core I0-540-C4-B5 --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing $32,500 for three kits, and a core? I'll take it :-). do not archive Paul Besing --- passpat@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: passpat@aol.com > > Hello List > I have the first 3 RV-10 kits never opened just > as recieved plus I0-540-C4B5 first run est 1400 hr > core. if interrested repley to passpat@aol.com > $32,500.00 make offer. > > Pat > do not archive > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > Admin. > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ = = = = ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 04:34:01 PM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: RV-List: Drilling out screws (was: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant !) --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube I have found that if you start with a small drill and slowly increase the size, you can drill out the center of the screw with minimal damage to the threads in the hole. This is because the screw threads are harder than the body of the screw and tend to guide the drill toward the center. If you increment the drill size slowly, all that will be left is the threads. You can pull them out with a needle nose if they don't simply wrap around the last drill. Bill Dube' Ron Lee wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee > > > > >>Now I face what to do with the four screws that have drilled off heads. >> >> > >Can you drill the proper size hole to use an Easy Out? Only marginally >related to your case but I have learned the hard (ie stupid) way that once >a screw becomes partially stripped (where you place the phillips driver) >it is best to throw it away. Screws are mucho cheaper than the time wasted >in getting them out. > >Ron Lee > >Do not archive > > >PS paid $3.029 for 100LL yesterday. > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:41:27 PM PST US From: danbergeronham@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Jack --> RV-List message posted by: danbergeronham@aol.com Erich: I too am at the stage in fuselage construction where I've been thinking about placement of the ground power jack. I suppose, like so many other things w/ airplanes, it's a compromise, in this case among length of cable, size of cable, weight and safety. I have definitely decided not to place it anywhere forward of the wing leading edge for safety reasons. That leaves the side or bottom of the fuse further aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless you're real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate a neat looking, unobtrusive access panel for the side of the fuse, I guess I'd put it on the bottom somewhere near the trailing edge of the wing. I'm leaning in that direction. Of course that means a bit of voltage drop or a heavier cable (the compromise thing) and going down on your hands and knees every time you want to use it; but then how often is that going to happen? Probably only when the airplane is parked in the snow, wet grass or mud. Happy building, Dan Bergeron Chicopee, MA RV-7A (fuse completion targeted for Christmas 06) N-307TB (Reserved) ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:50:42 PM PST US From: "JOHN STARN" Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! --> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" I assume that you used a paint cutter on the screwheads to allow for better screw removal & cleared the heads of paint before starting to apply removal twist. Then cut the paint on the tank/wing lines and took into consideration that the "seal" between the tank & wing might be paint that ran into the gap. We are going to pull the tanks on HRII N561FS as soon as we get the new hanger in shape. KABONG Do Not Archive Subject: RV-List: Fuel Tank Service Bulletiing - Mad Rant ! > --> RV-List message posted by: "John Fasching" > > Hit your delete button NOW if you don't want to read a rant by a very = > angry RV builder > > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > My RV6A has been in the air for two months short of 11-years now. = > Trouble free essentially. ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 04:51:17 PM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: RV-List: Cheap fuel --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee It was Limon CO >Where? >Rollie & Rod >6A Do not archive ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 05:39:27 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Ground Power Jack --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" Another alternative is to wire a Battery Tender type trickle charger to the battery and secure the plug near the oil door. It wouldn't provide a instant jump to a dead battery, but after 30 minutes you would have enough umph to crank (personal experience). It also provides juice when working on avionics for extended periods. No other special connectors needed, just an extension cord. I keep the tender plug in my travel tool kit. - Larry Bowen, RV-8 180 Hrs. Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: danbergeronham@aol.com [mailto:danbergeronham@aol.com] > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 7:39 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Jack > > --> RV-List message posted by: danbergeronham@aol.com > > Erich: > > I too am at the stage in fuselage construction where I've > been thinking about placement of the ground power jack. I > suppose, like so many other things w/ airplanes, it's a > compromise, in this case among length of cable, size of > cable, weight and safety. I have definitely decided not to > place it anywhere forward of the wing leading edge for safety > reasons. That leaves the side or bottom of the fuse further > aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless you're > real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate > a neat looking, unobtrusive access panel for the side of the > fuse, I guess I'd put it on the bottom somewhere near the > trailing edge of the wing. I'm leaning in that direction. > Of course that means a bit of voltage drop or a heavier cable > (the compromise thing) and going down on your hands and knees > every time you want to use it; but then how often is that > going to happen? Probably only when the airplane is parked > in the snow, wet grass or mud. > > Happy building, > > Dan Bergeron > Chicopee, MA > RV-7A (fuse completion targeted for Christmas 06) N-307TB (Reserved) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 05:56:34 PM PST US From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) Subject: RE: RV-List: Ground Power Jack --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) I did a hybrid. I bought the piper ground power jacks and in the end decided not to put then in as they were just massive, heavy. But I have my battery in the back (RV8) and my battery tender maintenance connector was not going to work out like it would have if the battery was on the firewall and one could get access through the oil service door. So I bought a heavy duty 12 volt all weather, spring loaded door cigarette style power plug and mounted it on the bottom of the fuse in the bay just behind the battery. I modified the battery tender output chords to use a cigarrete ligher style plug and now I plug my battery tender in all the time at the hangar and can still close and lock the canopy. Odyssey battery stays in top form this way. -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Larry Bowen" > --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" > > Another alternative is to wire a Battery Tender type trickle charger to the > battery and secure the plug near the oil door. It wouldn't provide a > instant jump to a dead battery, but after 30 minutes you would have enough > umph to crank (personal experience). It also provides juice when working on > avionics for extended periods. No other special connectors needed, just an > extension cord. I keep the tender plug in my travel tool kit. > > - > Larry Bowen, RV-8 180 Hrs. > Larry@BowenAero.com > http://BowenAero.com > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: danbergeronham@aol.com [mailto:danbergeronham@aol.com] > > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 7:39 PM > > To: rv-list@matronics.com > > Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Jack > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: danbergeronham@aol.com > > > > Erich: > > > > I too am at the stage in fuselage construction where I've > > been thinking about placement of the ground power jack. I > > suppose, like so many other things w/ airplanes, it's a > > compromise, in this case among length of cable, size of > > cable, weight and safety. I have definitely decided not to > > place it anywhere forward of the wing leading edge for safety > > reasons. That leaves the side or bottom of the fuse further > > aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless you're > > real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate > > a neat looking, unobtrusive access panel for the side of the > > fuse, I guess I'd put it on the bottom somewhere near the > > trailing edge of the wing. I'm leaning in that direction. > > Of course that means a bit of voltage drop or a heavier cable > > (the compromise thing) and going down on your hands and knees > > every time you want to use it; but then how often is that > > going to happen? Probably only when the airplane is parked > > in the snow, wet grass or mud. > > > > Happy building, > > > > Dan Bergeron > > Chicopee, MA > > RV-7A (fuse completion targeted for Christmas 06) N-307TB (Reserved) > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
I did a hybrid.  I bought the piper ground power jacks and in the end decided not to put then in as they were just massive, heavy.  But I have my battery in the back (RV8) and my battery tender maintenance connector was not going to work out like it would have if the battery was on the firewall and one could get access through the oil service door.
 
So I bought a heavy duty 12 volt all weather, spring loaded door cigarette style power plug and mounted it on the bottom of the fuse in the bay just behind the battery.  I modified the battery tender output chords to use a cigarrete ligher style plug and now I plug my battery tender in all the time at the hangar and can still close and lock the canopy.
 
Odyssey battery stays in top form this way.
 
-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>

> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen"
>
> Another alternative is to wire a Battery Tender type trickle charger to the
> battery and secure the plug near the oil door. It wouldn't provide a
> instant jump to a dead battery, but after 30 minutes you would have enough
> umph to crank (personal experience). It also provides juice when working on
> avionics for extended periods. No other special connectors needed, just an
> extension cord. I keep the tender plug in my travel tool kit.
>
> -
> Larry Bowen, RV-8 180 Hrs.
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: danbergeronham@aol.com [mailto: danber geronham@aol.com]
> > Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 7:39 PM
> > To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: RV-List: Ground Power Jack
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: danbergeronham@aol.com
> >
> > Erich:
> >
> > I too am at the stage in fuselage construction where I've
> > been thinking about placement of the ground power jack. I
> > suppose, like so many other things w/ airplanes, it's a
> > compromise, in this case among length of cable, size of
> > cable, weight and safety. I have definitely decided not to
> > place it anywhere forward of the wing leading edge for safety
> > reasons. That leaves the side or bottom of the fuse further
> > aft. Jacks are not terribly attractive and unless you're
> > real clever w/ sheet aluminum (and I'm not) and can fabricate
> > a neat looking, unobtrusive acc ess pa ====== ;
>
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 05:59:22 PM PST US From: Tailgummer@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: throttle bracket for superior io 360 --> RV-List message posted by: Tailgummer@aol.com Dave, you may wish to visit the precision website (precisionairmotive dot com) and see some installation photos, or call Paul Kalgren there. Paul is a wealth of information. Have you also discussed this with Superior? I'm sure they'd help as well. John D'Onofrio RV8 ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 06:00:36 PM PST US From: "Curt Reimer" Subject: Re: RV-List: ground power jack --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" I agonized over this, as with so many other building decisions, and decided it wasn't worth it to install a ground power jack. If you install one you have buy it, do the extra work, and then carry around a pound or so of useless weight for the life of the plane. I've flown my plane through three Canadian winters without a starting problem. That's in an unheated hangar at -30F with preheat prior to starting and a number of sub-freezing parking ramps at distant airports with NO preheat. It helps to have a good quality battery, and to change it often. I hope my new PC680 does as well as my old Concorde 25RG-XC that I just retired. One trick to avoid the dreaded left-the-master-on is to always leave your strobe switch in the on position as a "master power warning". Never left my master on once since I started doing that (thanks Doug Rozendahl). Also gets people's attention at start up. But okay, what if? If the time ever comes that I have a dead battery, and I'm sure it will, I can bear pulling off the battery cover to gain access. Or I can slow charge the battery through my accessory jack. In my tool bag I carry a 12V cigar lighter plug with short wires attached so that I can hook up a battery charger. The plug weighs maybe an ounce. The battery charger I'll borrow or buy, or even hook up jumper cables to a car and slow charge it off the car battery. There are multiple ways to revive your plane in a pinch. To paraphrase Henry Ford, parts left off the airplane cost nothing, weigh nothing and don't cause future service problems. If you are going to invest time and aircraft weight to cover for some rare contingency, at least make it an airborne contingency. Curt RV-6 C-GACR ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 06:42:44 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: idle air fuel --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <<<<<<<<<>>>>>>>>>>> M, The plate the screw is in often has cool little indicator arrows.... hesitation is more likely the accelerator pump or mild MAP leak or dirty plug, the idle circuit is off during anything above 1/8 throttle. W ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 07:12:16 PM PST US From: Sherman Butler Subject: Re: RV-List: Lyc 0290G --> RV-List message posted by: Sherman Butler When I looked at the 290 for a Yankee conversion I decided the engine had to be nearly free to afford the overhaul. It was used sucessfully in the past when the parts were more plentiful. The 320 has more power for the same money and weight was my conclusion. Do not Archive. Rvbuilder1@aol.com wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: Rvbuilder1@aol.com Anyone know about converting a Lyc 0290G for aircraft use Sherman Butler RV-7a Wings Idaho Falls --------------------------------- How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates. ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 07:12:44 PM PST US From: Mark Grieve Subject: Re: RV-List: Drilling out screws (was: Fuel Tank Service Bulletin - Mad Rant !) --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve Before you start drilling, try a Craftsman precision Phillips screwdriver. They have a sandblasted tip that really grips. Another trick that I used was to drive an Allen wrench into the hole drilled through the screw. I didn't have an easy out that was small enough and this did the trick. I was really cursing Cessna by the end of that project. Mark Bill Dube wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube > > I have found that if you start with a small drill and slowly increase > the size, you can drill out the center of the screw with minimal damage > to the threads in the hole. This is because the screw threads are harder > than the body of the screw and tend to guide the drill toward the > center. If you increment the drill size slowly, all that will be left is > the threads. You can pull them out with a needle nose if they don't > simply wrap around the last drill. > > Bill Dube' > > Ron Lee wrote: > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee >> >> >> >> >> >>>Now I face what to do with the four screws that have drilled off heads. >>> >>> >> >>Can you drill the proper size hole to use an Easy Out? Only marginally >>related to your case but I have learned the hard (ie stupid) way that once >>a screw becomes partially stripped (where you place the phillips driver) >>it is best to throw it away. Screws are mucho cheaper than the time wasted >>in getting them out. >> >>Ron Lee >> >>Do not archive >> >> >>PS paid $3.029 for 100LL yesterday. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.5.5/333 - Release Date: 5/5/2006 ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 07:24:57 PM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: RV-List: ground power jack --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee My plane just has a HOT lead to the battery positive (ground is the frame). Just hook up to the wire that hangs down at the lower cowl opening and the frame. Ron Lee ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 08:06:54 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: [ Richard Dudley ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! From: Email List Photo Shares --> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares A new Email List Photo Share is available: Poster: Richard Dudley Lists: AeroElectric-List,RV3-List,RV4-List,RV6-List,RV7-List,RV8-List,RV9-List,RV10-List,RV-List Subject: Groundpower jack http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/rhdudley1@bellsouth.net.05.08.2006/index.html ---------------------------------------------------------- o Main Photo Share Index http://www.matronics.com/photoshare o Submitting a Photo Share If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the following information along with your email message and files: 1) Email List or Lists that they are related to: 2) Your Full Name: 3) Your Email Address: 4) One line Subject description: 5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic: 6) One-line Description of each photo or file: Email the information above and your files and photos to: pictures@matronics.com ----------------------------------------------------------