Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:25 AM - Re: panel installation - radio trays (Rick Galati)
2. 05:33 AM - Re: Looking for reviews on the Lowrance AirMap 2000C (alan@reichertech.com)
3. 06:14 AM - Re: panel installation - radio trays (Bobby Hester)
4. 07:03 AM - Painter Feedback Sought (DAVID REEL)
5. 07:07 AM - Re: Re: panel installation - radio trays (sarg314)
6. 07:12 AM - Re: panel installation - radio trays (JEllis9847@aol.com)
7. 08:32 AM - Looking for reviews on the Lowrance AirMap 2000C (George Inman 204 287 8334)
8. 11:10 AM - Inst panel hole cutting (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
9. 11:14 AM - Re: Painter Feedback Sought (J. R. Dial)
10. 11:51 AM - Handheld GPS batteries (Ron Lee)
11. 12:39 PM - Re: Handheld GPS batteries (Terry Watson)
12. 04:00 PM - Re: Re: panel installation - radio trays (Charles Reiche)
13. 04:13 PM - Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
14. 04:17 PM - Re: Lightspeed EI installation (Doug Weiler)
15. 04:34 PM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (JIM)
16. 04:35 PM - Re: Handheld GPS batteries (Ron Lee)
17. 05:51 PM - Re: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs (dick martin)
18. 06:23 PM - Rotating the Tires (Kyle Boatright)
19. 06:31 PM - Wing Leveler (Kyle Boatright)
20. 06:41 PM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Bobby Hester)
21. 07:11 PM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Bruce Gray)
22. 07:18 PM - Re: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs (Jeff Orear)
23. 07:46 PM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (randall)
24. 07:51 PM - Re: Rotating the Tires (Dan Checkoway)
25. 08:03 PM - Re: OT - Certified seatbelt data plates (linn Walters)
26. 08:11 PM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Bruce Gray)
27. 09:22 PM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Ron Lee)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: panel installation - radio trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Tom,
Installing a radio stack is fairly straightforward. I used .032 aluminum angle
stock to tie the trays together and to the back of the panel. The two photographs
(of my Garmin 430 stack) should give you a fairly good idea of a typical
installation whether for 2 trays or 5 trays....the idea is about the same.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/3903/radiostack029bh.jpg
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/527/radiostack031zh.jpg
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 124 hours
.......I gather these are normally mounted in a some sort of framework that attaches
to the panel but I've never seen one of these. How close can I realistically
place an instrument to this support frame? Does any one have any photos.........I
can look at?..........Tom Sargent
]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34519#34519
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Looking for reviews on the Lowrance AirMap 2000C |
--> RV-List message posted by: alan@reichertech.com
I just had a panel-mount (GPS155XL) installed in my Skylane, so I'm going
to sell my 2000C. It is essentially new, only powered up at home for
checkout. It has never been in a plane. It has the Terrain card with it.
The database is expired since I haven't been using it.
Any offers?
--
Alan Reichert
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
On Sun, May 14, 2006 2:57 am, RV-List Digest Server wrote:
Time: 03:27:11 PM PST US
From: wskimike@mchsi.com
Subject: RE: RV-List: Looking for reviews on the Lowrance AirMap 2000C
--> RV-List message posted by: wskimike@mchsi.com
I have been using my 2000C for over a year and the only problem I have is
sometimes
when I turn it on, it lights up but the screen has lines and is not usable.
I have to pull the batteries out and then reboot it sometimes two or three
times before it will work. Otherwise, I love it especially since I got the
terrian
chip just before fun and sun. I was told that you can buy a larger memory
card and send both it and the new terrian chip back to lorrance and they will
put the terrain on your larger chip, or is is an option to get a larger chip.
You have to upgrade to the 1.4 version system.
Mike Harris
-------------- Original message from Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>:
--------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss
>
> Steve
> What format is the memory chip? SD? Compact Flash?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri"
> >
> >
> > I've had mine since sun and fun and like it a lot. I bought the air
> >gizmo mount for the panel and remove it a lot for terrestrial travel. The
> >only squawks are the batteries (4 aa) are For backup only as they only
last
> >about an hour. And the memory chip is 500 meg only big enough for the air
> >database with terrain. If you want to add highway info from the discs you
> >have to swap chips or buy a bigger one.
> > Strong points are the runway extensions and the terrain features.
> >Also menu navigation is easy to master.
> >
> >
> >Fwiw
> >Steve dinieri
> >40205
> >
> >
> >
> >Subject: RV-List: Looking for reviews on the Lowrance AirMap 2000C
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> >
> >Anyone out there using this with the new terrain awareness chip? Pros,
> >cons.....
> >
> >do not archive
> >
> >Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> >RV-6A, N915JD
> >265 hours
> >Chicago/Louisville
> >
> >
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: panel installation - radio trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
Check near the bottom of this page:
http://members.hopkinsville.net/bhester/FinishKitAssyPg2.htm
Please update your address book with my new email address:
bobbyhester@charter.net
Surfing the Web, Highspeed now, from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
sarg314 wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>I am getting down to the little details on panel design and am wondering
>about clearance between instruments and my radio stack. The "stack" is
>only an SL-30 radio and a KT-76C transponder. I have the trasponder in
>hand, but not the radio yet. (I guess it's about time I rodered it.)
>
>I gather these are normally mounted in a some sort of framework that
>attaches to the panel but I've never seen one of these. How close can I
>realistically place an instrument to this support frame? Does any one
>have any photos on their web site that I can look at?
>
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Tom Sargent
>RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Painter Feedback Sought |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I'd like to hear from anyone who has had a paint job done by Alan Woodson at
Brady Texas. I'm about to go down there to get my RV8A painted.
Dave Reel
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: panel installation - radio trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Great photographs, guys. I think I get the idea. It looks like I'll
have to give the radios a 1/2 to 3/4 margine around the edge.
Thanks very much.
--
Tom Sargent
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: panel installation - radio trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: JEllis9847@aol.com
Go to www.rvwiki.org and look at "Avionics Rack" to see how I mounted the
avionics in my 9-A. There are several pictures that might be helpful.
Jim Ellis
RV9-A, N155T
taxi testing, ready for first flight
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Looking for reviews on the Lowrance AirMap 2000C |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman@mts.net>
Have you tried Lithium AA batteries
in the 2000C ? They might last quite a bit longer
in an emergancy power failure.
>The <BR>> >only squawks
>are the batteries (4 aa) are For backup only
>as they only last <BR>> >about
>an hour.
--
George H. Inman
ghinman@mts.net
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Quick question folks:
I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks close
by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that they
really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that I
want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Trying to get the wiring finished
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Painter Feedback Sought |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
I had my plane done there and I am very satisfied. He has done
several others as a result of mine. Mine is the yellow and red RV6 that
is on his web-site and if you have any questions email me off list and I
will give you my phone number or email off list.
Dick Dial
N89DD
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 9:02 AM
Subject: RV-List: Painter Feedback Sought
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I'd like to hear from anyone who has had a paint job done by Alan
Woodson at
Brady Texas. I'm about to go down there to get my RV8A painted.
Dave Reel
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Handheld GPS batteries |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Find someone with >2300 mAh NiMH batteries to see how long
they last. You can get 2500 mAh AAs at Walmart now and with
a 15 minute charger (Energizer), you can recharge them quickly
and often
Ron Lee
> >The <BR>> >only squawks
> >are the batteries (4 aa) are For backup only
> >as they only last <BR>> >about
> >an hour.
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Handheld GPS batteries |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
In the current (June 2006) issue of Popular Science, pg. 22, they did a test
of batteries in a digital camera. Since the requirements are not the same as
for a GPS, these results may not translate well, but they are interesting.
Conventional alkaline batteries: 533 shots
Duracell Powerpix (Nickel Oxy Hydroxide): 920 shots
Panasonic Oxyride (Nickel Oxy Hydroxide): 990 shots
Energizer e2 Lithium: 3,107 shots
Although the lithium batteries cost twice as much, they were obviously the
best deal.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Lee
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 11:49 AM
Subject: RV-List: Handheld GPS batteries
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
Find someone with >2300 mAh NiMH batteries to see how long
they last. You can get 2500 mAh AAs at Walmart now and with
a 15 minute charger (Energizer), you can recharge them quickly
and often
Ron Lee
> >The <BR>> >only squawks
> >are the batteries (4 aa) are For backup only
> >as they only last <BR>> >about
> >an hour.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: panel installation - radio trays |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charles Reiche <charlieray@optonline.net>
As an avionics installer by trade, I would recommend placing like .060"
sheet between the trays when you design where the go, If you arent using a
avionics cooling fan like one from troll avionics.... I recommend leaving
that gap for some air flow.. you may think that a 1/8" gap between radios
is unsightly but they will last longer if they are allowed to breath,
especially in a non force-cooled installation. Position the trays with the
.060 sheet and then take it out when doing final assembly of your racks.
Never never never and never place forced cooling into a radio from something
like a NACA duct on the side of the airframe. I recently pulled a 210 apart
to install a Garmin GTX 330 and found that the 530 was being supplied
cooling air from outside the airplane via a ram air vent on the sidewall.
For S's and G's I took the cover off the 530 and looked inside, I found
pieces of grass and corrosion all over the thing that will lead to its early
demise. Cooling air has to be dry! And from inside the airplane.
Charlie
> Tom,
>
> Installing a radio stack is fairly straightforward. I used .032 aluminum
> angle stock to tie the trays together and to the back of the panel. The
> two photographs (of my Garmin 430 stack) should give you a fairly good
> idea of a typical installation whether for 2 trays or 5 trays....the idea
> is about the same.
> http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/3903/radiostack029bh.jpg
> http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/527/radiostack031zh.jpg
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 124 hours
>
>
> .......I gather these are normally mounted in a some sort of framework
> that attaches to the panel but I've never seen one of these. How close
> can I realistically place an instrument to this support frame? Does any
> one have any photos.........I can look at?..........Tom Sargent
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy 'list-
Interested if anyone has a prime fixed-pitch candidate prop for one of the
new 390 & 400 inch Lycoming clones- with the extra oomph, seems a f/p would be
a
good choice for reducing co$t, complexity & weight. I've e-mailed Craig
Catto to see what he's got up his sleeve, but curious if others have suggestions?
Anyone hit on a hot setup for one of these monsters yet?
Thanks-
Mark - do not archive
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed EI installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Weiler <dcw@mnwing.org>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> You need to rotate the prop (or flywheel) somewhat quickly to get it to
> fire. I suspect the issue you're seeing is that you're not moving it
> quickly enough. My experience with my Plasma II was that if you don't
> rotate the prop/flywheel quickly enough during the phase test, you won't see
> the coils firing.
>
> Otherwise, Klaus should be able to help you. Give him a call on the
> phone...contact info at the bottom of this page:
> http://www.lightspeedengineering.com/
>
> Where are you located? If you're anywhere near SoCal I could probably give
> you a hand.
Thanks for the offer Dan, except I am way out here in Minnesota. I think
you are right and affirmed by Alex that rotating the ring gear by hand won't
do it. I'll proceed and check everything as instructed and hopefully it
will fire up when finished.
Thanks
Doug
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JIM" <perfeng@3rivers.net>
Dean,
An easy way to do it using "common tools" is to measure and make your own
template. Before you undertake several hours of measuring and layout you
might try contacting the technical or production department and ask them if
they have production drawings or 1:1 templates available. If not there are
several ways in which to transfer your demensions to your template. You can
either make the deminsions directly to a sheet of aluminum or draw it out on
vellum and trace it using carbon paper backing. Either way using a piece of
Al or very thin polycarbonate the same face size as your panel area will
allow you to position and size the unit along with allowing you to make all
your cuts and trial fit prior to actually cutting your panel. A good
adjustable protactor saves lots of time laying out the off angles used.
Just be sure you have the spacing in your sub. Oh BTW, a good machinist
don't need no stinking CNC! :)
Jim Duckett RV-7A N708JD
----- Original Message -----
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 12:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
> <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
> Quick question folks:
>
> I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
> monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks
> close
> by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that
> they
> really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that
> I
> want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That
> could
> probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
> problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
> outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
> making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
> from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
> VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
> only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it
> CNC
> machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
> looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
> the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
> suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
> Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it
> in
> my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
>
> Dean Psiropoulos
> RV-6A N197DM
> Trying to get the wiring finished
>
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Handheld GPS batteries |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
I would take this a step further and look at life cycle cost.
Assume Alkaline battery = $1 each (533 shots)
NiMH battery = $3.50 each (900 shots assumed)
e2 Lithium battery = $3.50 each 3107 shots)
Also assume only one battery is needed.
Cost per shot then is:
Alkaline = $1.00/533 = 0.187 cents/shot
e2 Lithium = $3.50/3107 = 0.113 cents/shot
Yes the Lithium is better than alkaline.
But wait, we have examined the NiMh which is at first glance
$3.50/900 = 0.389 cents/shot but since it can be recharged
hundreds of times (let's be conservative and only use 300) then
we are at 0.389/300 = 0.0013 cents/shot. Even adding in the
charger cost makes the NiMh much better.
Ron Lee
>In the current (June 2006) issue of Popular Science, pg. 22, they did a test
>of batteries in a digital camera. Since the requirements are not the same as
>for a GPS, these results may not translate well, but they are interesting.
>
>Conventional alkaline batteries: 533 shots
>Duracell Powerpix (Nickel Oxy Hydroxide): 920 shots
>Panasonic Oxyride (Nickel Oxy Hydroxide): 990 shots
>Energizer e2 Lithium: 3,107 shots
>
>Although the lithium batteries cost twice as much, they were obviously the
>best deal.
>
>Terry
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
Mark,
I have 350 hours on my IO390 from Barrette Performance AC. I have both a
76" Hartzell from Vans AC and a Aero Composites 74" carbon fibre prop with
blades optomized for the RV8. After extensive testing of both props, I have
gone with the Aero Composites because it is 15 lbs lighter and 16 mph faster
than the Hartzell and no vibration. The Aero Composites is slightly slower
on rate of climb, approximately 200 - 300 fpm, however it still climbs
over 2000 fpm in 30 to 50 degree outside air temps. I do have a Sam James
cowl and plenum which does enhance performance over a stock Vans cowl setup.
My airplane weighs 1140 lbs empty.
For your information, I had a IO360 Lyc with 10-1 pistons etc prior to the
IO390. I ran it for 946 hours before the bearings in the engine failed. As
a result of that unpleasant experience, I would not recommend a pumped up
engine again.
On the average the IO390 is approximately 12lbs heavier than the IO360. At
standard cruise settings 23x23 it uses a half gal per hour more fuel - 10.5
gal per hour and cruises on average 5 mph faster than the IO360 .
I hope this information helps you with your engine,prop selection.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233 M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 6:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> Howdy 'list-
>
> Interested if anyone has a prime fixed-pitch candidate prop for one of the
> new 390 & 400 inch Lycoming clones- with the extra oomph, seems a f/p
> would be a
> good choice for reducing co$t, complexity & weight. I've e-mailed Craig
> Catto to see what he's got up his sleeve, but curious if others have
> suggestions?
> Anyone hit on a hot setup for one of these monsters yet?
>
> Thanks-
> Mark - do not archive
>
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rotating the Tires |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
I finished my condition inspection yesterday but deferred pulling the =
wheels. A visual inspection indicated that the brakes are in good shape, =
and the tires have plenty of tread left, but it soon will be time to =
rotate the tires left to right again, and when I do that, I'll re-pack =
the wheel bearings.
Anyway, the point is that whenever I do this, it seems to take forever. =
You'd think it would be doable in a couple of hours, but for me it seems =
to take a half day. Pulling the wheelpants, extracting the cotter pins =
on the axle nuts, pulling loose the brake calipers, alternately jacking =
up one side of the plane, then the other, removing a wheel and putting =
the axle up on wood blocks. Then, it is time to let the air out of the =
tubes, split the wheels, clean and pack the bearings, and reverse the =
process. It takes forever... Which is why I deferred it yesterday. I =
wanted to be done with the condition inspection, which turned out fine, =
except for a broken Adel clamp on one of the exhaust hangars. Also, I =
had my AI replace the mixture control thingie in the carburetor, because =
it wasn't sealing well and it was getting difficult to stop the engine =
with the mixture control.
Back to the reason for the post... Are there any masters of the tire =
rotation task? If so, what are your suggestions, other than having =
everything at hand when the time comes?
Suggestions appreciated.
KB
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
While I was doing my condition inspection, I did a little poking around =
and discovered that it might *just* be possible to get a couple more =
wires out into the right wing of N46KB to run the servo for a wing =
leveler.
Which brings me back to the old issue of which of the two common wing =
levelers is "best", which is a heck of a subjective issue.
I like the pseudo AH feature with the Tru-Track ADI, but then again, if =
I got into a situation where I needed that feature, maybe it would be =
best if I just turned on the wing leveler? On the other hand, the EZ =
pilot seems to give the pilot more navigation information, but it =
doesn't have provide any vertical navigation or the pseudo AH.
I guess the bottom line is that I'm leaning towards the EZ pilot, but =
I'm easily swayed.
Thanks for any input.
KB
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
You should be able to do it like I did. I used a jig saw at first I
thought that idea was crazy, but it worked great! you cut it just a
little shy and file to the finish line. You can read about it on this page:
http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/FinishKitAssyPg3.html
Please update your address book with my new email address:
bobbyhester@charter.net
Surfing the Web, Highspeed now, from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>Quick question folks:
>
>I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
>monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks close
>by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that they
>really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that I
>want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
>probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
>problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
>outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
>making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
>from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
>VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
>only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
>machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
>looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
>the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
>suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
>Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
>my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Trying to get the wiring finished
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
What you want to do is find a friend that has AutoCAD and have him layout
your panel on the computer. Then send the autocad file to a laser cutter and
volla, instant perfect cutout panel.
Wayne at www.engravers.net can cut your panel for you from your autocad
file.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bobby Hester
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 9:45 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting
--> RV-List message posted by: Bobby Hester <bobbyhester@charter.net>
You should be able to do it like I did. I used a jig saw at first I
thought that idea was crazy, but it worked great! you cut it just a
little shy and file to the finish line. You can read about it on this page:
http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/FinishKitAssyPg3.html
Please update your address book with my new email address:
bobbyhester@charter.net
Surfing the Web, Highspeed now, from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A Slowbuild wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
<dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>Quick question folks:
>
>I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
>monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks close
>by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that
they
>really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that I
>want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
>probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
>problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
>outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
>making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
>from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
>VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
>only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it
CNC
>machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
>looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
>the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
>suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
>Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
>my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Trying to get the wiring finished
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Mark:
Sounds like you are feeling a need.....a need for speed!
Us guys with 150hp O320's gotta stick together dude!
Do Not Archive
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 6:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> Howdy 'list-
>
> Interested if anyone has a prime fixed-pitch candidate prop for one of the
> new 390 & 400 inch Lycoming clones- with the extra oomph, seems a f/p
> would be a
> good choice for reducing co$t, complexity & weight. I've e-mailed Craig
> Catto to see what he's got up his sleeve, but curious if others have
> suggestions?
> Anyone hit on a hot setup for one of these monsters yet?
>
> Thanks-
> Mark - do not archive
>
>
>
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "randall" <rv6n6r@comcast.net>
Jigsaw, files, hacksaw, drill -- worked fine for all of us "old-timers" who
built before laser cutters were in vogue. Its a bit of work but I doubt it'd
take less time than drawing on CAD.
Randall Henderson
> DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
> <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
> >
> >Quick question folks:
> >
> >I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
> >monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks
close
> >by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that
> they
> >really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that
I
> >want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That
could
> >probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
> >problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
> >outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
> >making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg
angle
> >from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
> >VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced
the
> >only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it
> CNC
> >machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
> >looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking
at
> >the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
> >suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of
the
> >Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it
in
> >my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
> >
> >Dean Psiropoulos
> >RV-6A N197DM
> >Trying to get the wiring finished
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rotating the Tires |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Rotated mine today. It took about an hour and a half. Once you get the
system down it goes more quickly. Here are my "tips":
1. I use 3/8" long screws on the wheel pants instead of the 1/2" screws
called out on the plans. Shorter screws means fewer threads...means the
screws are in/out faster. Also saves a tiny bit of weight (whatever).
2. I use a 7/16" "ratcheting dogbone" wrench on the bolts that attach the
outsides of the wheel pants to the axle nut. This makes very quick work of
getting those bolts out and back in. You might be able to get a small
socket wrench on there, but I find the ratcheting dogbone is exactly what
the doctor ordered.
3. Remove the valve stem completely when working with tubes. When you said
"let the air out" in your email below, I wasn't sure how you were doing
that...so if you're not removing the valve stem, do that. Air is let out
very quickly (pretty much instantely...no need to hold the valve) and the
tubes are much easier to work with when scrunching 'em up to fit into the
tires.
4. This is general advice rather than a trick...DO NOT HANDLE A FULLY
INFLATED TIRE/WHEEL that is not held captive by the axle nut. While it's
extraordinarily unlikely, it HAS happened -- the wheel can "explode" by
virtue of the halves separating, becoming projectiles. I *ALWAYS* remove
the valve stem completely before loosening the axle nut. I re-inflate the
tires only after the wheel is on the axle with the axle nut ON. In your
email below it sounded like you removed the wheel from the axle and then let
the air out. Ask around among A&Ps or shops and you'll hear some real
horror stories. I met one guy personally who suffered a head injury when a
wheel separated.
Hope this helps...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (904 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 6:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rotating the Tires
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
>
> I finished my condition inspection yesterday but deferred pulling the =
> wheels. A visual inspection indicated that the brakes are in good shape, =
> and the tires have plenty of tread left, but it soon will be time to =
> rotate the tires left to right again, and when I do that, I'll re-pack =
> the wheel bearings.
>
> Anyway, the point is that whenever I do this, it seems to take forever. =
> You'd think it would be doable in a couple of hours, but for me it seems =
> to take a half day. Pulling the wheelpants, extracting the cotter pins =
> on the axle nuts, pulling loose the brake calipers, alternately jacking =
> up one side of the plane, then the other, removing a wheel and putting =
> the axle up on wood blocks. Then, it is time to let the air out of the =
> tubes, split the wheels, clean and pack the bearings, and reverse the =
> process. It takes forever... Which is why I deferred it yesterday. I =
> wanted to be done with the condition inspection, which turned out fine, =
> except for a broken Adel clamp on one of the exhaust hangars. Also, I =
> had my AI replace the mixture control thingie in the carburetor, because =
> it wasn't sealing well and it was getting difficult to stop the engine =
> with the mixture control.
>
> Back to the reason for the post... Are there any masters of the tire =
> rotation task? If so, what are your suggestions, other than having =
> everything at hand when the time comes?
>
> Suggestions appreciated.
>
> KB
>
>
>
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: OT - Certified seatbelt data plates |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Paul ..... check with the seat-belt reweb company. Old seatbelts didn't
have the cert label. The FAA made it an issue since there wasn't any
TRACEABILITY of the belts ...... and could be from a car .......
However, the reweb folks DO use the hardware and DO put their cert label
on their rewebbed belts. You need to get another mechanic.
Linn
Folbrecht, Paul wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
>
>Thanks for all the replies on this. Mechanic says that re-webbing is
>NOT an option because that requires valid belts to start with, and these
>are not. They are some bogus belts installed back who knows when. Of
>course, they are in perfect shape and completely sturdy and safe.
>
>Oh well, another $400 gone.
>
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry
>Grimmonpre
>Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 5:55 PM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: OT - Certified seatbelt data plates
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
>
>Paul ...
>If you are close to Northern IL call Midwest Flight Check based at The
>Landings airport Huntley Illinois. I don't know the ID for the airport.
>
>Midwest's # is 847-669-3515. It's operated by my son and two others in
>partnership. You may talk to Gary, Scott or Gregg. Gary, my son, and
>Gregg
>are United mechanics with inspector authority. They are reasonable and
>do
>responsible work. You won't be disappointed .... no rip-offs there.
>Regards ...
>Jerry Grimmonpre'
>RV8A Huntley IL
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 12:55 PM
>Subject: RV-List: OT - Certified seatbelt data plates
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul"
>><PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
>>
>>A&P is making me replace the belts on my '79 152 now in annual because
>>
>>
>=
>
>
>>the data plates are missing. The plates on the belts, that is.
>>
>>
>Perhaps =
>
>
>>I'm quite na=EFve, but I wasn't aware of such a thing, and in any case
>>
>>
>=
>
>
>>the previous two annuals I've done on this aircraft caused no such =
>>complaints, and the last one was at the same shop! (Different head =
>>mechanic now, though.)
>>
>>
>>
>>This is over $300 plus labor. What next? I had a $4K annual last
>>
>>
>year =
>
>
>>on this $25K aircraft and am looking at the same kind of bill again
>>
>>
>this =
>
>
>>year! All for mostly "little" stuff that just adds up like crazy - no
>>
>>
>=
>
>
>>motor work. I can't wait to own an experimental!
>>
>>
>>
>>Rant off. Do not archive!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
It took me a couple of weeks with autocad and my learning curve to layout my
very complex panel in my Glasair III. I can now do your average panel in
about an hour. When you throw in all the 3/4 ATI square, 45 degree corners,
VM 1000's and the other strange shaped stuff, it might take me 2 hours. When
I'm done, every thing fits, all the mounting holes line up. You might be
able to do it with a file, but you sure can tell when you look at the
finished product. If you're going to make layout mistakes, it's much easier
to fix the error on a computer screen than a sheet of aluminum.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of randall
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 10:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting
--> RV-List message posted by: "randall" <rv6n6r@comcast.net>
Jigsaw, files, hacksaw, drill -- worked fine for all of us "old-timers" who
built before laser cutters were in vogue. Its a bit of work but I doubt it'd
take less time than drawing on CAD.
Randall Henderson
> DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
> <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
> >
> >Quick question folks:
> >
> >I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
> >monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks
close
> >by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that
> they
> >really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that
I
> >want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That
could
> >probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
> >problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
> >outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
> >making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg
angle
> >from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
> >VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced
the
> >only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it
> CNC
> >machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
> >looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking
at
> >the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
> >suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of
the
> >Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it
in
> >my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
> >
> >Dean Psiropoulos
> >RV-6A N197DM
> >Trying to get the wiring finished
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
There are places to scrimp and places to do it right.
The panel is something that you and everyone else will see
on every flight, on the ground, etc.
Ron Lee
Do not archive
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|