Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:36 AM - Re: Lightspeed EI installation (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
2. 04:43 AM - Sold: Piper Ground Power Jack (Ted Lumpkin)
3. 06:02 AM - Re: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs (Tracy Crook)
4. 06:02 AM - Re: Idle mixture screw on MA-4-5 (Dale Ensing)
5. 06:19 AM - Re: Rotating the Tires (Richard Seiders)
6. 06:42 AM - Re: Rotating the Tires (linn Walters)
7. 06:42 AM - rotary engine firewall package for 6, 7, or 9 for sale (WALTER B KERR)
8. 06:50 AM - OSH Notam (Wheeler North)
9. 07:13 AM - AD compliance documentation questions (Ralph E. Capen)
10. 07:13 AM - Inst panel hole cutting (Glen Matejcek)
11. 07:32 AM - Re: AD compliance documentation questions (linn Walters)
12. 07:35 AM - Ryton sumps (Karen and Robert Brown)
13. 07:47 AM - Inst panel hole cutting (Steve Struyk)
14. 07:55 AM - Re: AD compliance documentation questions (Mike Robertson)
15. 08:16 AM - Inst panel hole cutting (George Inman 204 287 8334)
16. 08:16 AM - glued canopy (Glen Matejcek)
17. 08:20 AM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Bruce Gray)
18. 08:22 AM - Re: AD compliance documentation questions (Bruce Gray)
19. 08:30 AM - Instrument screws/nuts (Gerry Filby)
20. 08:31 AM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Gerry Filby)
21. 08:37 AM - Re: glued canopy (Rob Prior (rv7))
22. 08:53 AM - Re: Instrument screws/nuts (James Freeman)
23. 08:54 AM - Re: Instrument screws/nuts (Denis Walsh)
24. 09:06 AM - Re: RV-4 for Sale (Rainey, Steven A CIV)
25. 09:38 AM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Terry Watson)
26. 09:49 AM - Re: Rotating the Tires (John Fasching)
27. 09:51 AM - Re: OT - Certified seatbelt data plates (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
28. 10:22 AM - Re:Inst panel hole cutting (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
29. 12:02 PM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Rick Galati)
30. 02:11 PM - Re: Rotating the Tires (Wentz, Don)
31. 02:53 PM - EAA Chapter 731 Fly-in at Morganton-Lenoir, NC, May 20th (Wesley T Robinson)
32. 03:55 PM - Re: AD compliance documentation questions (Mike Robertson)
33. 05:08 PM - Re: Ryton sumps (RV6 Flyer)
34. 06:16 PM - Re: AD compliance documentation questions (N395V)
35. 06:16 PM - Re: Instrument screws/nuts (Paul Besing)
36. 06:22 PM - Re: Ryton sumps (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
37. 06:53 PM - Re: Re: AD compliance documentation questions (Charlie England)
38. 07:22 PM - Re: Re: AD compliance documentation questions (Bruce Gray)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed EI installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Doug.
Recommend you read this thread for gapping the direct crank pickup .
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t7688
Best,
Mike
Fellow Listers:
I am into a major project installing a dual Lightspeed Ignition system
in my
flying RV-4. It will be using the direct crank sensor installation.
This
project is just about done and I am beginning to do some preliminary
tests
are stated in the LSI manual. I have run a magnetic across the sensors
on
both systems on the direct crank sensor circuit board and the coils fire
fine across their terminals.
Here is my question. I have carefully measured the calculated clearance
between the sensors on the circuit board and the small magnets which are
installed in the ring gear (I had LSI install them so I assume they are
in
the correct position). I have been trying to see if I can get the
coils to
fire my temporarily positioning the starter ring gear and moving the
engine
through TDC. No luck in getting them to fire. Now I don't know if this
is
a valid test. I assume I am moving the ring gear fast enough through
the
sensor positions but it is hard to say.
For any of you that have installed the LSI system with the direct crank
sensor, did you have any issues like this?. Or did you put it together
and
it just ran??
Doug Weiler
N722DW, 290 hours
Message 2
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| Subject: | Sold: Piper Ground Power Jack |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin <tlump51@sbcglobal.net>
The Piper ground power jack has been sold. Thanks to all who inquired and good
luck on your projects.
Ted
Do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" <lors01@msn.com>
Don't run one of those big piston powered motors Dick, but got to say =
that I really appreciate the hard data & performance numbers you come up =
with from time to time. Keep it come'n!
Tracy Crook
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: dick martin<mailto:martin@gbonline.com>
To: rv-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" =
<martin@gbonline.com<mailto:martin@gbonline.com>>
Mark,
I have 350 hours on my IO390 from Barrette Performance AC. I have =
both a
76" Hartzell from Vans AC and a Aero Composites 74" carbon fibre prop =
with
blades optomized for the RV8. After extensive testing of both props, =
I have
gone with the Aero Composites because it is 15 lbs lighter and 16 mph =
faster
than the Hartzell and no vibration. The Aero Composites is slightly =
slower
on rate of climb, approximately 200 - 300 fpm, however it still =
climbs
over 2000 fpm in 30 to 50 degree outside air temps. I do have a Sam =
James
cowl and plenum which does enhance performance over a stock Vans cowl =
setup.
My airplane weighs 1140 lbs empty.
For your information, I had a IO360 Lyc with 10-1 pistons etc prior to =
the
IO390. I ran it for 946 hours before the bearings in the engine =
failed. As
a result of that unpleasant experience, I would not recommend a =
pumped up
engine again.
On the average the IO390 is approximately 12lbs heavier than the =
IO360. At
standard cruise settings 23x23 it uses a half gal per hour more fuel - =
10.5
gal per hour and cruises on average 5 mph faster than the IO360 .
I hope this information helps you with your engine,prop selection.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233 M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com<mailto:Fiveonepw@aol.com>>
To: <rv-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 6:11 PM
Subject: RV-List: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs
> --> RV-List message posted by: =
Fiveonepw@aol.com<mailto:Fiveonepw@aol.com>
>
> Howdy 'list-
>
> Interested if anyone has a prime fixed-pitch candidate prop for one =
of the
> new 390 & 400 inch Lycoming clones- with the extra oomph, seems a =
f/p
> would be a
> good choice for reducing co$t, complexity & weight. I've e-mailed =
Craig
> Catto to see what he's got up his sleeve, but curious if others have =
> suggestions?
> Anyone hit on a hot setup for one of these monsters yet?
>
> Thanks-
> Mark - do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List<http://www.matronics.com/Navig=
ator?RV-List>
=
=
=
=
http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi=
on>
=
=
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Idle mixture screw on MA-4-5 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
Mark,
When you turn the idle mixture screw counter clockwise, you are turning it
out. Be sure you do not turn it so far that there is no longer tension on
the spring. A friend did this trying to get that RPM increase on shut down
and had the engine quit on final because the idle mixture screw fill out
during a flight. Probably came out because of engine vibration during the
flight.
Dale Ensing
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rotating the Tires |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
Sounds like what I do exactly, and it takes 4 hrs to do it right. I suppose
you could work faster, but likely make mistakes and add to future woes.
It's a pain. The last occasion for me I saved time by installing new tires
at the change instead of switching as tires were worn on the outside a bit
more than usual. Saving time = spending more. Relax and enjoy it.
Dick
At 09:20 PM 5/14/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
>
>I finished my condition inspection yesterday but deferred pulling the =
>wheels. A visual inspection indicated that the brakes are in good shape, =
>and the tires have plenty of tread left, but it soon will be time to =
>rotate the tires left to right again, and when I do that, I'll re-pack =
>the wheel bearings.
>
>Anyway, the point is that whenever I do this, it seems to take forever. =
>You'd think it would be doable in a couple of hours, but for me it seems =
>to take a half day. Pulling the wheelpants, extracting the cotter pins =
>on the axle nuts, pulling loose the brake calipers, alternately jacking =
>up one side of the plane, then the other, removing a wheel and putting =
>the axle up on wood blocks. Then, it is time to let the air out of the =
>tubes, split the wheels, clean and pack the bearings, and reverse the =
>process. It takes forever... Which is why I deferred it yesterday. I =
>wanted to be done with the condition inspection, which turned out fine, =
>except for a broken Adel clamp on one of the exhaust hangars. Also, I =
>had my AI replace the mixture control thingie in the carburetor, because =
>it wasn't sealing well and it was getting difficult to stop the engine =
>with the mixture control.
>
>Back to the reason for the post... Are there any masters of the tire =
>rotation task? If so, what are your suggestions, other than having =
>everything at hand when the time comes?
>
>Suggestions appreciated.
>
>KB
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Rotating the Tires |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
How much time is taken up with trying to get the bead of the tire off
the rim???? The best advice I ever got was to use liberal amounts of
talc ..... on the tube, in the tire, and on the wheel itself. The next
time you split the wheel, it'll be a whole lot easier.
Linn
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | rotary engine firewall package for 6, 7, or 9 for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: WALTER B KERR <jbker@juno.com>
Sorry about the commercial, but believe this is the best spot to get a
plug in for my engine package!
Have decided to part my 9A out and build a LSA since medicals or getting
tougher as 70 is upon me.
Will sell the rotary and install a lycoming in the 9A before selling it.
Do not wish to have the double jeopardy of an alternative engine and
homebuilt combination if I sell it with the rotary.
The engine installation has had minimum problems once I got past a faulty
DPDT switch that was apparently backfeeding 12 volts to electronic
control and burning the chip which operates off of 5 volts. Flew the 40
hours off in minimum time and have about 10 hours on it since.
Fuel burn is not bad if leaned which the flight report in Sport Aviation
alludes to. That controller does not allow for leaning.
I have over $12K invested and will sell it for $8K. The gear reduction
and electronic controller are built by Tracy Crook at RWS inc, the engine
is a street ported 13B built by Bruce Turrentine, the engine mount is by
Fred Breese, and the prop is a Sensenich. You get the nose gear leg, dual
electronic fuel pumps, intake and exhaust manifolds, muffler, radiator
(Griffen custom aluminum), oil cooler, and many more items.
I have not pulled the engine yet, so you can come to Ft Pierce Fl and see
and hear it run until I start the conversion to the lycoming.
Bernie Kerr, 6A 450 hours and sold, 9A rotary with 50 hours
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
I don't remember if this has been announced but the OSH 2006 Notam is now
available.
http://www.airventure.org/2006/flying/notam06.pdf
W
Message 9
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| Subject: | AD compliance documentation questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Folks,
I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a Lycoming SB leading
to an AD for this line.
After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance? I'm guessing
that it should go in my engine Log-Book.
Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the builder -
but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying yet. Is there
a specific text for the compliance?
Thanks,
Ralph Capen
RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward
Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's an understatement!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
HI Dean-
RE: ...and needless to say, I'm convinced the
only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
machined....
I have to agree here with the majority of the responses you've gotten so
far. It's really not a big deal to do the panel well. There should be
dimensional data for mounting your avionics available in your literature,
or at least on a web site. Lay it out right on your panel blank, use
common drills, unibits, and a saber saw with a metal cutting blade as
necessary. File carefully to a nice fit. Test fit your avionics as you
go. You will surprise yourself with how nice a job you can do.
Virtually all the metal working skills I have I learned building this
plane. All my avionics are face mounted, with only one bezel involved.
The results are pretty gratifying.
FWIW-
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: AD compliance documentation questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Ralph E. Capen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Folks,
>
>I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a Lycoming SB
leading to an AD for this line.
>
>After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance? I'm guessing
that it should go in my engine Log-Book.
>
It should.
>Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the builder
- but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying yet. Is there
a specific text for the compliance?
>
I see your dilemma. Since the aircraft is going to be certified, along
with the engine, in the experimental category, and there isn't any
prohibition for you to build up your own engine in the first place,
there really isn't a problem. However, the DAR may see the entry and
declare your 'certificated' engine as 'experimental' and increase your
fly-off time. If the engine/prop combination is experimental anyway,
this would be a moot point.
If it were me, I'd add the logbook entry after I had my airworthiness
certificate in hand.
Linn ..... IMHO, of course.
do not archive
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward
>
>Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's an understatement!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
Yesterday, I joined the ranks of people who have broken their ryton =
sumps during startup. 3 out of 4 ryton sumps on the field have now =
broken at least once. I am not comfortable with that record, so am now =
looking at alternatives for replacement.
Does anyone have feedback on what options are out there for a forward =
facing sump?
Bob Brown
RV7A
last few things...oh, and a NEW INDUCTION SYSTEM!
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
I've read with interest this string and thought I'd add my two cents =
worth.
I found making the panel one of the more rewarding parts of the project =
and did it with a few basic tools. At first I called a few local shops =
with CNC machines and was shocked at the price just to do the hole for =
my VM-1000. I decided to get creative with the metal template provided =
with the VM-1000 and my trusty Craftsman router. First I mounted the =
template and blank panel on a piece of 3/4" MDF. Then using a straight =
cutting bit with a roller guide, made a very nice opening for the =
VM-1000 indicator.
After laying out the panel full scale on 1/4" graph paper I did the =
remaining holes with an instrument hole cutting punch. =
http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHC318 Sure it cost =
150 bucks but it's the right tool for the job, does both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4 =
holes. The only other tool needed was a mounting hole jig, 14 bucks. =
http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHT250I (I'm a =
self admitted tool junkie so needing a couple of tools along the way is =
an excuse to buy one.) BTW I'm not partial to Cleaveland, Avery and =
others have them as well.
A little file work to open holes for things like the Kollsman knob and =
VS adjustment screw and that was it.
I've got pictures if anybody wants to see them off list.
Again, just my two cents worth but it worked for me.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles MO
RV-8, 45 Hours
Message 14
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| Subject: | AD compliance documentation questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Ralph,
If the plane isn't flying yet then nothing needs to be done. If the plane
is flying then a logbook entry would be in line. Because its experimental
you don't need any type of certificate. Simply enter that date, and brief
description of what you did, then sign it off and print your name.
AS you asked I will volunteer a brief description: " Complied with AD
??-??-?? by installing stainless steel oil line." Thats all that needed.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>To: lycomingengines-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com,
>rv6-list@matronics.com, RV7A@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
>Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 10:11:34 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Folks,
>
>I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a Lycoming
>SB leading to an AD for this line.
>
>After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance?
>I'm guessing that it should go in my engine Log-Book.
>
>Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the
>builder - but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying
>yet. Is there a specific text for the compliance?
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward
>
>Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's
>an understatement!
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman@mts.net>
I managed to make decent looking square holes using an
ordinary power jig saw with a mettle cutting blade.
Drill holes at the corners,then use the jig saw to cut
close to finished size.Then finish with a flat file.
You can do the corners with a small file.
> I have a Dynon D-10 that I
>want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
>probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
>problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
>outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
>making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
>from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
>VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
>only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
>machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
>looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
>the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
>suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
>Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
>my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
--
George H. Inman
ghinman@mts.net
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
HI All-
I have an update on my glued canopy saga. Life has conspired to keep me
from working on my project, but the canopy is now glued on, cut, filleted,
and the edges are dressed. Along the way I came up with a few data points
I'd like to share. First though I'd like to thank those who've gone
before, especially Billy and Mickey. Thanks guys!
WRT the chemicals used, the cleaner does have a primer element to it. It
is very easy to use and the minimum purchase quantity is several times what
you will need. The primer itself is about double or more of what you need.
The primer forms a very smooth surface for the adhesive to bond to. This
is a fundamental requirement of the process. Somewhere out there in
cyberworld is a recommendation to scuff the primer if you can't get the
adhesive in place right away. This would be a large mistake, as would
adding another coat of primer. Per the manufacturer, the adhesive is to be
applied to the primer within 2 hours. Between 2 hours and about 3 days,
you can simply wash the primer with the cleaner, and it will re-soften it
adequately to apply the adhesive. Scuffing the primer will cause a
significantly weaker bond, as the adhesive won't flow into the 'tooth'. If
you were to scuff the primer, you should remove ALL the affected area and
start the process over with the cleaner. Adding a second coat of primer
would make an unacceptably thick, and therefore structurally weak, layer.
When applying the adhesive, I used perhaps 2 dozen latex gloves. This
helped me to keep the project (and myself!) pretty clean. My wife and I
had no trouble doing the installation by ourselves. It's really pretty
darn slick, and I just can't imagine drilling and using fasteners.
I used Billy's idea of scoring the primer from the inside with a screw to
locate the big cut, then re-marked it with masking tape on the outside. A
die grinder and cutting disc made pretty quick and easy work of the cut. I
did underestimate what the final kerf was going to be, but the gasket will
take care of that just fine.
Once the canopy was cut and removed from the plane, I prepped and finish
glued it. This involved back filling the areas where the spacers had been
and creating aesthetically pleasing fillets. In most places this is easily
done with a gloved finger. For the windscreen base, I used a four inch
diameter ceramic candy dish as a squeegee. It worked extremely well, was
very convenient to grip, and cleaned up easily.
The glue actually had to sit for 2 days before I was comfortable handling
it. After 2 weeks, it is a whole lot tougher.
To dress the 'big cut', I used 100 and then 220 grit self adhesive
sandpaper on both sides of a 1/2 x 1-1/2 x 6" sanding block. I closed the
canopy on the block and then sanded both sides of the cut at the same time.
This ensured that the two cut edges stayed parallel as I cleaned them up.
I final finished them with scotchbrite, and am quite pleased with the
results.
The way I did my installation, two tubes of adhesive was just about enough
to do the canopy, but not the skirt. That will require part of a third
tube. How to seal the leading edge of the skirt will take a little
thought, but shouldn't be too arduous.
As ever, FWIW!
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 17
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| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Of the 11 holes in my panel, only 6 are round. The rest are 3 inch ATI,
(that's 3 inch square with 45 degree clipped corners), 1/3 ATI, rectulangar
(AOA), and my VM1000. Now you might be able to do a passing job by hand on
the big holes, but the real clincher is locating the instrument mounting
holes. If you're mounting with pan head screws you have some fudge factor to
oversize the hole if you're off a little bit. But all my instrument mounting
screws are countersunk. Which means I had to be dead nuts on. My Glasair III
has 5 metal sub panels that mount to a fiberglass frame. My cost to CNC all
the panels and holes was under $300 total. The cutter worked from my autocad
drawing, which I supplied.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Struyk
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 10:45 AM
Subject: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
I've read with interest this string and thought I'd add my two cents =
worth.
I found making the panel one of the more rewarding parts of the project =
and did it with a few basic tools. At first I called a few local shops =
with CNC machines and was shocked at the price just to do the hole for =
my VM-1000. I decided to get creative with the metal template provided =
with the VM-1000 and my trusty Craftsman router. First I mounted the =
template and blank panel on a piece of 3/4" MDF. Then using a straight =
cutting bit with a roller guide, made a very nice opening for the =
VM-1000 indicator.
After laying out the panel full scale on 1/4" graph paper I did the =
remaining holes with an instrument hole cutting punch. =
http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHC318 Sure it cost =
150 bucks but it's the right tool for the job, does both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4 =
holes. The only other tool needed was a mounting hole jig, 14 bucks. =
http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHT250I (I'm a =
self admitted tool junkie so needing a couple of tools along the way is =
an excuse to buy one.) BTW I'm not partial to Cleaveland, Avery and =
others have them as well.
A little file work to open holes for things like the Kollsman knob and =
VS adjustment screw and that was it.
I've got pictures if anybody wants to see them off list.
Again, just my two cents worth but it worked for me.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles MO
RV-8, 45 Hours
Message 18
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| Subject: | AD compliance documentation questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Mike,
Because we're not subject to AD's don't you think he should state he
complied with the SB rather than the AD?
Bruce
www.glasair.org
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 10:54 AM
Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Ralph,
If the plane isn't flying yet then nothing needs to be done. If the plane
is flying then a logbook entry would be in line. Because its experimental
you don't need any type of certificate. Simply enter that date, and brief
description of what you did, then sign it off and print your name.
AS you asked I will volunteer a brief description: " Complied with AD
??-??-?? by installing stainless steel oil line." Thats all that needed.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
>From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>To: lycomingengines-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com,
>rv6-list@matronics.com, RV7A@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
>Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 10:11:34 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
>
>Folks,
>
>I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a Lycoming
>SB leading to an AD for this line.
>
>After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance?
>I'm guessing that it should go in my engine Log-Book.
>
>Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the
>builder - but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying
>yet. Is there a specific text for the compliance?
>
>Thanks,
>Ralph Capen
>RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward
>
>Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's
>an understatement!
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Instrument screws/nuts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
Folks,
I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use anywhere on the
panel (although all my instruments are "electronic" apart from
2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI).
I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog - but no brass
nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the cad plated
steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of brass nuts
and washers ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
That's the way I went - one tip - put masking tape 2 layers
thick anywhere the base plate of your jigsaw is going to
contact the panel - mine got scratched up a bit as the saw
travelled across the surface.
g
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334
> <ghinman@mts.net>
>
>
> I managed to make decent looking square holes using an
> ordinary power jig saw with a mettle cutting blade.
> Drill holes at the corners,then use the jig saw to cut
> close to finished size.Then finish with a flat file.
> You can do the corners with a small file.
>
>
>
> > I have a Dynon D-10 that I
> >want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
> >probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
> >problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
> >outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
> >making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
> >from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
> >VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
> >only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
> >machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
> >looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
> >the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
> >suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
> >Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
> >my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
> >
> >Dean Psiropoulos
> >RV-6A N197DM
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: glued canopy |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 8:15:42 2006-05-15 "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net> wrote:
> I have an update on my glued canopy saga. Life has conspired to keep
> me from working on my project, but the canopy is now glued on, cut,
> filleted, and the edges are dressed. Along the way I came up with a
> few data points I'd like to share. First though I'd like to thank
> those who've gone before, especially Billy and Mickey. Thanks guys!
Glen, i've added your post to the Gluing Your Canopy page on the Matronics
RV Wiki. You can find it here:
<http://wiki.matronics.com/wiki/index.php/Gluing_Your_Canopy>
Feel free to edit if you'd like to add more info.
-Rob
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument screws/nuts |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
On May 15, 2006, at 10:28 AM, Gerry Filby wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use anywhere on the
> panel (although all my instruments are "electronic" apart from
> 2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI).
>
> I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog - but no brass
> nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the cad plated
> steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of brass nuts
> and washers ?
>
Gerry-
The only reason to use the brass hardware is to avoid interference
with your compass. If you don't have a compass on your panel, don't
worry about it.
Stainless nuts and washers are widely available and mostly (but not
completely) non-magnetic. These are usually good enough for "gubmint"
work.
For items that won't be removed frequently, don't overlook soft
aluminum pop rivets. They are quick and cheap to install, and can be
drilled out more quickly than you can remove a typical threaded
fastener. I used them to mount my magnetometer rather than fool
around trying to find appropriate brass or nylon hardware.
James Freeman
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Instrument screws/nuts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
Grasshoppers or threaded instruments
Denis Walsh
On May 15, 2006, at 9:28 AM, Gerry Filby wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
> Folks,
>
> I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use anywhere on the
> panel (although all my instruments are "electronic" apart from
> 2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI).
>
> I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog - but no brass
> nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the cad plated
> steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of brass nuts
> and washers ?
>
> __g__
>
> ==========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
Message 24
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rainey, Steven A CIV" <steven.rainey@navy.mil>
Jim, can I get some info on this RV-4?? Where is it located, etc?? contact email
from the seller , etc?? thanks......... Steven at Steven.rainey@navy.mil
...........
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Cimino
Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 13:51
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 for Sale
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
I am listing this for a friend of mine who has an RV-4 for sale. It has =
an O-320-D1A with 310 TTAE bought new from Van's. It is VFR and is in =
great shape. This is a very nice RV-4 that was built by a close friend =
of mine who is a retired sheet metal fabricator. This was the 3rd RV =
that he built and the workmanship is flawless. It is yellow and red. =
My friend is asking $45,000 for it. If you are interested or have any =
other questions you can contact Richard at rblakesl@ptd.net . Or I will =
try to answer any questions I can for you.
Thanks,
Jim
Jim Cimino
N7TL
RV-8 S/N 80039
200+ Hours
http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/
Message 25
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| Subject: | Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Or maybe work from the back of the panel. But if you do, don't cut the notch
for the altimeter setting on the wrong corner. I hear someone did that.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 8:30 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
That's the way I went - one tip - put masking tape 2 layers
thick anywhere the base plate of your jigsaw is going to
contact the panel - mine got scratched up a bit as the saw
travelled across the surface.
g
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334
> <ghinman@mts.net>
>
>
> I managed to make decent looking square holes using an
> ordinary power jig saw with a mettle cutting blade.
> Drill holes at the corners,then use the jig saw to cut
> close to finished size.Then finish with a flat file.
> You can do the corners with a small file.
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Rotating the Tires |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Fasching" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
Kyle,
I think rotating the tires is a lot of work for minimal returns. I decided
some time ago to get the best tires out there and leave them in place. I
found that the Goodyear Flight Custom II wear like iron. I have not rotated
them and they seem to wear fairly evenly...I use 30PSI....I can't recall
when I replaced them, must have been several years ago and many, many,
landings, and they still have deep even threads.
FWIW John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:20 PM
Subject: RV-List: Rotating the Tires
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
>
> I finished my condition inspection yesterday but deferred pulling the =
> wheels. A visual inspection indicated that the brakes are in good shape, =
> and the tires have plenty of tread left, but it soon will be time to =
> rotate the tires left to right again, and when I do that, I'll re-pack =
> the wheel bearings.
>
> Anyway, the point is that whenever I do this, it seems to take forever. =
> You'd think it would be doable in a couple of hours, but for me it seems =
> to take a half day. Pulling the wheelpants, extracting the cotter pins =
> on the axle nuts, pulling loose the brake calipers, alternately jacking =
> up one side of the plane, then the other, removing a wheel and putting =
> the axle up on wood blocks. Then, it is time to let the air out of the =
> tubes, split the wheels, clean and pack the bearings, and reverse the =
> process. It takes forever... Which is why I deferred it yesterday. I =
> wanted to be done with the condition inspection, which turned out fine, =
> except for a broken Adel clamp on one of the exhaust hangars. Also, I =
> had my AI replace the mixture control thingie in the carburetor, because =
> it wasn't sealing well and it was getting difficult to stop the engine =
> with the mixture control.
>
> Back to the reason for the post... Are there any masters of the tire =
> rotation task? If so, what are your suggestions, other than having =
> everything at hand when the time comes?
>
> Suggestions appreciated.
>
> KB
>
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: OT - Certified seatbelt data plates |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
do not archive
Why don't you buy some new legal ones and replace them yourself? Part
43, appendix A, (C), 14 will allow you do this and all other preventive
maintenace which is specifically listed there. This would save you the
labor and you can shop for some good seatbelts. Call Wentworth and talk
to them about some good pullouts with tags...
Just an idea, Phil in Illinois
Folbrecht, Paul wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
>
>Thanks for all the replies on this. Mechanic says that re-webbing is
>NOT an option because that requires valid belts to start with, and these
>are not. They are some bogus belts installed back who knows when. Of
>course, they are in perfect shape and completely sturdy and safe.
>
>Oh well, another $400 gone.
>
>Do not archive
>
>-
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Folbrecht, Paul" <PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 12:55 PM
>Subject: RV-List: OT - Certified seatbelt data plates
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul"
>><PFolbrecht@starkinvestments.com>
>>
>>A&P is making me replace the belts on my '79 152 now in annual because
>>
>>
>=
>
>
>>the data plates are missing. The plates on the belts, that is.
>>
>>
>Perhaps =
>
>
>>I'm quite na=EFve, but I wasn't aware of such a thing, and in any case
>>
>>
>=
>
>
>>the previous two annuals I've done on this aircraft caused no such =
>>complaints, and the last one was at the same shop! (Different head =
>>mechanic now, though.)
>>
>>
>>
>>This is over $300 plus labor. What next? I had a $4K annual last
>>
>>
>year =
>
>
>>on this $25K aircraft and am looking at the same kind of bill again
>>
>>
>this =
>
>
>>year! All for mostly "little" stuff that just adds up like crazy - no
>>
>>
>=
>
>
>>motor work. I can't wait to own an experimental!
>>
>>
>>
>>Rant off. Do not archive!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Dean,
I have successfully used a router table to cut very clean and straight lines
on my panel. First, I cut with a hole saw, jig saw, or other means to get
close to the edge. Then with a small, .125" cutter in the router, and a fence
made from a piece of .063 alum angle one can progressively take small cuts out
to the edge you want. If you need smaller than .125 radius at the corners,
you can predrill those before routing. This method results in a finish
comparable to professional machining if you are careful, and it is relatively
fast
compared to filing, etc... You will need to devise a method to keep the fence
solidly in place while routing but easy to move. With mine, I simply use
clamps.
You will need a variable speed control. Harbor Freight. Cheap.
It is important to practice on a similar piece and learn the technique
first.
Did I mention this is inexpensive? Provide you already have router access,
of course.
Disclaimer and warning: Routers can be dangerous cutting aluminum, so take
small cuts, say .003, push work against cutter rotation, not with, or there
could be an ugly surprise. Wear eye protection and leather gloves. FWIW,
YMMV, etc.
Hope this helps
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
In a message dated 5/15/2006 12:04:44 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list@matronics.com writes:
Time: 11:10:30 AM PST US
From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Subject:
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
<dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Quick question folks:
I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine
monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks close
by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that they
really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that I
want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could
probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest
problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its
outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of
making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle
from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have
VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the
only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC
machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny
looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at
the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any
suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the
Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in
my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Trying to get the wiring finished
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Inst panel hole cutting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz wrote:
> ......... The biggest
> problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display...... Those
of you who have VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm
convinced the only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to
have it CNC machined.
Dean,
I did not find the VM-1000 hole to be particularily difficult to fashion at all.
As my usual practice in approaching such things, I rough cut the hole open
as large as possible with a fiber cutoff wheel...the same one used to separate
the canopy bubble...then using various high speed rotary files in a standard
die grinder and a combination of smaller files and stones in a pencil grinder,
I think the VM-1000 opening came out just fine.
http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/7321/00001139tx.jpg
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34741#34741
Message 30
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| Subject: | Rotating the Tires |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" <don.wentz@intel.com>
Wow,
Something to remember, although I also finished installing new tires
last weekend.
Most RV guys I know do ONE tire 'rotation' for the life of the tire. If
you wait until the insides of the tires are just about done before you
rotate, you should only have to do it once, and it will significantly
lengthen the life of your tires.
My 'AeroTrainers' lasted a little over 300 hrs, and with one 'rotation',
a set of "Condors" lasted 600 hrs on my RV-6 (the grooves were still
just visible, no cording).
I can't do the swap in an hour and a half, but all of Dan's tips should
help.
Don
RV-6 925hrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:49 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Rotating the Tires
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Rotated mine today. It took about an hour and a half. Once you get the
system down it goes more quickly. Here are my "tips":
1. I use 3/8" long screws on the wheel pants instead of the 1/2" screws
called out on the plans. Shorter screws means fewer threads...means the
screws are in/out faster. Also saves a tiny bit of weight (whatever).
2. I use a 7/16" "ratcheting dogbone" wrench on the bolts that attach
the outsides of the wheel pants to the axle nut. This makes very quick
work of getting those bolts out and back in. You might be able to get a
small socket wrench on there, but I find the ratcheting dogbone is
exactly what the doctor ordered.
3. Remove the valve stem completely when working with tubes. When you
said "let the air out" in your email below, I wasn't sure how you were
doing that...so if you're not removing the valve stem, do that. Air is
let out very quickly (pretty much instantely...no need to hold the
valve) and the tubes are much easier to work with when scrunching 'em up
to fit into the tires.
4. This is general advice rather than a trick...DO NOT HANDLE A FULLY
INFLATED TIRE/WHEEL that is not held captive by the axle nut. While
it's extraordinarily unlikely, it HAS happened -- the wheel can
"explode" by virtue of the halves separating, becoming projectiles. I
*ALWAYS* remove the valve stem completely before loosening the axle nut.
I re-inflate the tires only after the wheel is on the axle with the axle
nut ON. In your email below it sounded like you removed the wheel from
the axle and then let the air out. Ask around among A&Ps or shops and
you'll hear some real horror stories. I met one guy personally who
suffered a head injury when a wheel separated.
Hope this helps...
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (904 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
Do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | EAA Chapter 731 Fly-in at Morganton-Lenoir, NC, May 20th |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wesley T Robinson" <wesleyt@stanfordfurniture.com>
Listers, EAA Chapter 731 is holding their Spring Fly-in at Morganton-Lenoir,
NC (KMRN) on May 20th.
Join us for food, fun, and flying!
Should be a great day with quite a few aircraft attending.
An award will be given to the best RV and to aircraft in other categories.
Check the club website for full details. www.eaa731.org
Wesley T Robinson
WR Consulting
EAA 731 Web/Newsletter Editor
RV-9A N224WR 150Hrs
Message 32
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| Subject: | AD compliance documentation questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
You're choice, but as the AD calls out the SB I feel it would be better to
call out the AD. That way if any question should come up down the line you
are able to point right to the entry instead of having to explain that the
SB is called out in the AD and therefore the same.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
>Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 11:19:15 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
>
>Mike,
>
>Because we're not subject to AD's don't you think he should state he
>complied with the SB rather than the AD?
>
>Bruce
>www.glasair.org
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Robertson
>Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 10:54 AM
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
>Ralph,
>
>If the plane isn't flying yet then nothing needs to be done. If the plane
>is flying then a logbook entry would be in line. Because its experimental
>you don't need any type of certificate. Simply enter that date, and brief
>description of what you did, then sign it off and print your name.
>
>AS you asked I will volunteer a brief description: " Complied with AD
>??-??-?? by installing stainless steel oil line." Thats all that needed.
>
>Mike Robertson
>Das Fed
>
>
> >From: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
> >To: lycomingengines-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com,
> >rv6-list@matronics.com, RV7A@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions
> >Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 10:11:34 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
> >
> >Folks,
> >
> >I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a
>Lycoming
> >SB leading to an AD for this line.
> >
> >After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance?
> >I'm guessing that it should go in my engine Log-Book.
> >
> >Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the
> >builder - but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying
> >yet. Is there a specific text for the compliance?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Ralph Capen
> >RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward
> >
> >Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's
> >an understatement!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
There are several out there.
ECI makes a metal one that I saw at Oshkosh and it was several pounds ligher
than the one Lycoming sells.
This is ECI's experimental one:
http://www.eci2fly.com/exp/cis_flyer.pdf
http://www.eci2fly.com/exp/cis_tds.pdf
http://www.superflite.com/products.asp?p=115&SID=17&SN=Front%20Servo%20Sump
I thought that Raven Aircraft also had a 4 cylinder parallel valve version
but cannot find it anymore. Only the 540 version.
http://www.ravenaircraft.com/raven_012.htm
http://www.skydynamics.com/maxisump.html
http://users.adelphia.net/~aeroengine/Barrett.html
http://www.attawayair.com/eci_fi_system.htm
http://www.performanceengines.com/images/LineCard.pdf
I remember seeing a link to another one out there but cannot find it now.
Lets put this one in the archives for next time when we go looking for cold
air sumps.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,852 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Karen and Robert Brown" <bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ryton sumps
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown"
<bkbrown@ashcreekwireless.com>
Yesterday, I joined the ranks of people who have broken their ryton =
sumps during startup. 3 out of 4 ryton sumps on the field have now =
broken at least once. I am not comfortable with that record, so am now =
looking at alternatives for replacement.
Does anyone have feedback on what options are out there for a forward =
facing sump?
Bob Brown
RV7A
last few things...oh, and a NEW INDUCTION SYSTEM!
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: AD compliance documentation questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "N395V" <n395v@hughes.net>
Not everyone who will one day see the logbook or own the plane understand the regs
(or lack thereof) governing experimentals.
As such in my opinion we should strive to make log entries as though it were a
certified aircraft.
No harm is done by noting compliance with an AD. In my opinion it demonstrates
professionalism and enhances knowledge and value of the aircraft.
do not archive.
--------
Milt
N395V
F1 Rocket
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34800#34800
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Instrument screws/nuts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
I just used some really cool stainless hex head screws
from home depot. Works great. I think the brass
screw thing is an old wives tale, personally...that is
unless you are using them screw in a compass.
Paul Besing
--- James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman
> <flyeyes@mac.com>
>
>
> On May 15, 2006, at 10:28 AM, Gerry Filby wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby
> <gerf@gerf.com>
> >
> >
> > Folks,
> >
> > I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use
> anywhere on the
> > panel (although all my instruments are
> "electronic" apart from
> > 2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI).
> >
> > I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog -
> but no brass
> > nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the
> cad plated
> > steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of
> brass nuts
> > and washers ?
> >
>
> Gerry-
>
> The only reason to use the brass hardware is to
> avoid interference
> with your compass. If you don't have a compass on
> your panel, don't
> worry about it.
>
> Stainless nuts and washers are widely available and
> mostly (but not
> completely) non-magnetic. These are usually good
> enough for "gubmint"
> work.
>
> For items that won't be removed frequently, don't
> overlook soft
> aluminum pop rivets. They are quick and cheap to
> install, and can be
> drilled out more quickly than you can remove a
> typical threaded
> fastener. I used them to mount my magnetometer
> rather than fool
> around trying to find appropriate brass or nylon
> hardware.
>
> James Freeman
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
We also had a broken sump on the Superior XP-360. I don't even know if it is
a Ryton. It has been replaced but I am very leery of it now. Seems we were
running a bit lean at low power.
It back fired on start up. Our servo was a repaired unit so we got a new one
but not sure it is any different. Please give me some input if u are running
the same engine.
1. What is the fuel flow at take off power....we show 16.3 GPH.
2. What are the EGT's at some altitude at full rich.
3. What are the EGT's at that altitude after leaning on the rich side
Appreciate any and all info on this engine. We are not confident that things
are as they should be and concerned with causing damage.
Thanks,
Doug Preston
RV-7A N196VA
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: AD compliance documentation questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
N395V wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "N395V" <n395v@hughes.net>
>
>Not everyone who will one day see the logbook or own the plane understand the
regs (or lack thereof) governing experimentals.
>
>As such in my opinion we should strive to make log entries as though it were a
certified aircraft.
>
>No harm is done by noting compliance with an AD. In my opinion it demonstrates
professionalism and enhances knowledge and value of the aircraft.
>
>do not archive.
>
>--------
>Milt
>N395V
>F1 Rocket
>
That's kinda like saying there's no harm in letting the cops do a
warrant-less search of your car for drugs if you don't use drugs. Or
letting the Gummint have a record of all your phone calls & emails if
you aren't a terrorist.
Always consider carefully the precedents you allow to be set.
Charlie
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: AD compliance documentation questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" <Bruce@glasair.org>
Never, EVER give a law enforcement officer consent to search anything. Make
them jump through all the hoops, probable cause, warrant, etc.
The Supreme Court has already ruled that your incoming/outgoing phone number
list is NOT protected. No warrant is necessary. Same with emails and
content, no expectation of privacy.
Everyone says we failed to connect the dots, but fail to see that we need
the dots to connect first.
Bruce
www.glasair.org
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 9:51 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: AD compliance documentation questions
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
N395V wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "N395V" <n395v@hughes.net>
>
>Not everyone who will one day see the logbook or own the plane understand
the regs (or lack thereof) governing experimentals.
>
>As such in my opinion we should strive to make log entries as though it
were a certified aircraft.
>
>No harm is done by noting compliance with an AD. In my opinion it
demonstrates professionalism and enhances knowledge and value of the
aircraft.
>
>do not archive.
>
>--------
>Milt
>N395V
>F1 Rocket
>
That's kinda like saying there's no harm in letting the cops do a
warrant-less search of your car for drugs if you don't use drugs. Or
letting the Gummint have a record of all your phone calls & emails if
you aren't a terrorist.
Always consider carefully the precedents you allow to be set.
Charlie
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