---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 05/15/06: 38 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:36 AM - Re: Lightspeed EI installation (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)) 2. 04:43 AM - Sold: Piper Ground Power Jack (Ted Lumpkin) 3. 06:02 AM - Re: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs (Tracy Crook) 4. 06:02 AM - Re: Idle mixture screw on MA-4-5 (Dale Ensing) 5. 06:19 AM - Re: Rotating the Tires (Richard Seiders) 6. 06:42 AM - Re: Rotating the Tires (linn Walters) 7. 06:42 AM - rotary engine firewall package for 6, 7, or 9 for sale (WALTER B KERR) 8. 06:50 AM - OSH Notam (Wheeler North) 9. 07:13 AM - AD compliance documentation questions (Ralph E. Capen) 10. 07:13 AM - Inst panel hole cutting (Glen Matejcek) 11. 07:32 AM - Re: AD compliance documentation questions (linn Walters) 12. 07:35 AM - Ryton sumps (Karen and Robert Brown) 13. 07:47 AM - Inst panel hole cutting (Steve Struyk) 14. 07:55 AM - Re: AD compliance documentation questions (Mike Robertson) 15. 08:16 AM - Inst panel hole cutting (George Inman 204 287 8334) 16. 08:16 AM - glued canopy (Glen Matejcek) 17. 08:20 AM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Bruce Gray) 18. 08:22 AM - Re: AD compliance documentation questions (Bruce Gray) 19. 08:30 AM - Instrument screws/nuts (Gerry Filby) 20. 08:31 AM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Gerry Filby) 21. 08:37 AM - Re: glued canopy (Rob Prior (rv7)) 22. 08:53 AM - Re: Instrument screws/nuts (James Freeman) 23. 08:54 AM - Re: Instrument screws/nuts (Denis Walsh) 24. 09:06 AM - Re: RV-4 for Sale (Rainey, Steven A CIV) 25. 09:38 AM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Terry Watson) 26. 09:49 AM - Re: Rotating the Tires (John Fasching) 27. 09:51 AM - Re: OT - Certified seatbelt data plates (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club) 28. 10:22 AM - Re:Inst panel hole cutting (Jerry2DT@aol.com) 29. 12:02 PM - Re: Inst panel hole cutting (Rick Galati) 30. 02:11 PM - Re: Rotating the Tires (Wentz, Don) 31. 02:53 PM - EAA Chapter 731 Fly-in at Morganton-Lenoir, NC, May 20th (Wesley T Robinson) 32. 03:55 PM - Re: AD compliance documentation questions (Mike Robertson) 33. 05:08 PM - Re: Ryton sumps (RV6 Flyer) 34. 06:16 PM - Re: AD compliance documentation questions (N395V) 35. 06:16 PM - Re: Instrument screws/nuts (Paul Besing) 36. 06:22 PM - Re: Ryton sumps (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com) 37. 06:53 PM - Re: Re: AD compliance documentation questions (Charlie England) 38. 07:22 PM - Re: Re: AD compliance documentation questions (Bruce Gray) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:36:23 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Lightspeed EI installation From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" Doug. Recommend you read this thread for gapping the direct crank pickup . http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t7688 Best, Mike Fellow Listers: I am into a major project installing a dual Lightspeed Ignition system in my flying RV-4. It will be using the direct crank sensor installation. This project is just about done and I am beginning to do some preliminary tests are stated in the LSI manual. I have run a magnetic across the sensors on both systems on the direct crank sensor circuit board and the coils fire fine across their terminals. Here is my question. I have carefully measured the calculated clearance between the sensors on the circuit board and the small magnets which are installed in the ring gear (I had LSI install them so I assume they are in the correct position). I have been trying to see if I can get the coils to fire my temporarily positioning the starter ring gear and moving the engine through TDC. No luck in getting them to fire. Now I don't know if this is a valid test. I assume I am moving the ring gear fast enough through the sensor positions but it is hard to say. For any of you that have installed the LSI system with the direct crank sensor, did you have any issues like this?. Or did you put it together and it just ran?? Doug Weiler N722DW, 290 hours ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:43:39 AM PST US From: Ted Lumpkin Subject: RV-List: Sold: Piper Ground Power Jack --> RV-List message posted by: Ted Lumpkin The Piper ground power jack has been sold. Thanks to all who inquired and good luck on your projects. Ted Do not archive ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:02:12 AM PST US From: "Tracy Crook" Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs --> RV-List message posted by: "Tracy Crook" Don't run one of those big piston powered motors Dick, but got to say = that I really appreciate the hard data & performance numbers you come up = with from time to time. Keep it come'n! Tracy Crook do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: dick martin To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 8:44 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs --> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" = > Mark, I have 350 hours on my IO390 from Barrette Performance AC. I have = both a 76" Hartzell from Vans AC and a Aero Composites 74" carbon fibre prop = with blades optomized for the RV8. After extensive testing of both props, = I have gone with the Aero Composites because it is 15 lbs lighter and 16 mph = faster than the Hartzell and no vibration. The Aero Composites is slightly = slower on rate of climb, approximately 200 - 300 fpm, however it still = climbs over 2000 fpm in 30 to 50 degree outside air temps. I do have a Sam = James cowl and plenum which does enhance performance over a stock Vans cowl = setup. My airplane weighs 1140 lbs empty. For your information, I had a IO360 Lyc with 10-1 pistons etc prior to = the IO390. I ran it for 946 hours before the bearings in the engine = failed. As a result of that unpleasant experience, I would not recommend a = pumped up engine again. On the average the IO390 is approximately 12lbs heavier than the = IO360. At standard cruise settings 23x23 it uses a half gal per hour more fuel - = 10.5 gal per hour and cruises on average 5 mph faster than the IO360 . I hope this information helps you with your engine,prop selection. Dick Martin RV8 N233 M the fast one ----- Original Message ----- From: > To: > Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 6:11 PM Subject: RV-List: Prop choices for REALLY big 4-cyl Lycs > --> RV-List message posted by: = Fiveonepw@aol.com > > Howdy 'list- > > Interested if anyone has a prime fixed-pitch candidate prop for one = of the > new 390 & 400 inch Lycoming clones- with the extra oomph, seems a = f/p > would be a > good choice for reducing co$t, complexity & weight. I've e-mailed = Craig > Catto to see what he's got up his sleeve, but curious if others have = > suggestions? > Anyone hit on a hot setup for one of these monsters yet? > > Thanks- > Mark - do not archive > > > > > > > > > > > > > > = = http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List = = = = http://www.matronics.com/contribution = = ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:02:12 AM PST US From: "Dale Ensing" Subject: Re: RV-List: Idle mixture screw on MA-4-5 --> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ensing" Mark, When you turn the idle mixture screw counter clockwise, you are turning it out. Be sure you do not turn it so far that there is no longer tension on the spring. A friend did this trying to get that RPM increase on shut down and had the engine quit on final because the idle mixture screw fill out during a flight. Probably came out because of engine vibration during the flight. Dale Ensing ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:19:12 AM PST US From: Richard Seiders Subject: Re: RV-List: Rotating the Tires --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders Sounds like what I do exactly, and it takes 4 hrs to do it right. I suppose you could work faster, but likely make mistakes and add to future woes. It's a pain. The last occasion for me I saved time by installing new tires at the change instead of switching as tires were worn on the outside a bit more than usual. Saving time = spending more. Relax and enjoy it. Dick At 09:20 PM 5/14/2006, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" > > >I finished my condition inspection yesterday but deferred pulling the = >wheels. A visual inspection indicated that the brakes are in good shape, = >and the tires have plenty of tread left, but it soon will be time to = >rotate the tires left to right again, and when I do that, I'll re-pack = >the wheel bearings. > >Anyway, the point is that whenever I do this, it seems to take forever. = >You'd think it would be doable in a couple of hours, but for me it seems = >to take a half day. Pulling the wheelpants, extracting the cotter pins = >on the axle nuts, pulling loose the brake calipers, alternately jacking = >up one side of the plane, then the other, removing a wheel and putting = >the axle up on wood blocks. Then, it is time to let the air out of the = >tubes, split the wheels, clean and pack the bearings, and reverse the = >process. It takes forever... Which is why I deferred it yesterday. I = >wanted to be done with the condition inspection, which turned out fine, = >except for a broken Adel clamp on one of the exhaust hangars. Also, I = >had my AI replace the mixture control thingie in the carburetor, because = >it wasn't sealing well and it was getting difficult to stop the engine = >with the mixture control. > >Back to the reason for the post... Are there any masters of the tire = >rotation task? If so, what are your suggestions, other than having = >everything at hand when the time comes? > >Suggestions appreciated. > >KB > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:42:32 AM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Rotating the Tires --> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters How much time is taken up with trying to get the bead of the tire off the rim???? The best advice I ever got was to use liberal amounts of talc ..... on the tube, in the tire, and on the wheel itself. The next time you split the wheel, it'll be a whole lot easier. Linn do not archive ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:42:44 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: rotary engine firewall package for 6, 7, or 9 for sale From: WALTER B KERR --> RV-List message posted by: WALTER B KERR Sorry about the commercial, but believe this is the best spot to get a plug in for my engine package! Have decided to part my 9A out and build a LSA since medicals or getting tougher as 70 is upon me. Will sell the rotary and install a lycoming in the 9A before selling it. Do not wish to have the double jeopardy of an alternative engine and homebuilt combination if I sell it with the rotary. The engine installation has had minimum problems once I got past a faulty DPDT switch that was apparently backfeeding 12 volts to electronic control and burning the chip which operates off of 5 volts. Flew the 40 hours off in minimum time and have about 10 hours on it since. Fuel burn is not bad if leaned which the flight report in Sport Aviation alludes to. That controller does not allow for leaning. I have over $12K invested and will sell it for $8K. The gear reduction and electronic controller are built by Tracy Crook at RWS inc, the engine is a street ported 13B built by Bruce Turrentine, the engine mount is by Fred Breese, and the prop is a Sensenich. You get the nose gear leg, dual electronic fuel pumps, intake and exhaust manifolds, muffler, radiator (Griffen custom aluminum), oil cooler, and many more items. I have not pulled the engine yet, so you can come to Ft Pierce Fl and see and hear it run until I start the conversion to the lycoming. Bernie Kerr, 6A 450 hours and sold, 9A rotary with 50 hours ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:50:28 AM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: OSH Notam --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North I don't remember if this has been announced but the OSH 2006 Notam is now available. http://www.airventure.org/2006/flying/notam06.pdf W ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:13:46 AM PST US From: "Ralph E. Capen" Subject: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions --> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" Folks, I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a Lycoming SB leading to an AD for this line. After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance? I'm guessing that it should go in my engine Log-Book. Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the builder - but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying yet. Is there a specific text for the compliance? Thanks, Ralph Capen RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's an understatement! ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:13:59 AM PST US From: "Glen Matejcek" Subject: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting --> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" HI Dean- RE: ...and needless to say, I'm convinced the only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC machined.... I have to agree here with the majority of the responses you've gotten so far. It's really not a big deal to do the panel well. There should be dimensional data for mounting your avionics available in your literature, or at least on a web site. Lay it out right on your panel blank, use common drills, unibits, and a saber saw with a metal cutting blade as necessary. File carefully to a nice fit. Test fit your avionics as you go. You will surprise yourself with how nice a job you can do. Virtually all the metal working skills I have I learned building this plane. All my avionics are face mounted, with only one bezel involved. The results are pretty gratifying. FWIW- Glen Matejcek aerobubba@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:32:22 AM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions --> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters Ralph E. Capen wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" > >Folks, > >I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a Lycoming SB leading to an AD for this line. > >After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance? I'm guessing that it should go in my engine Log-Book. > It should. >Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the builder - but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying yet. Is there a specific text for the compliance? > I see your dilemma. Since the aircraft is going to be certified, along with the engine, in the experimental category, and there isn't any prohibition for you to build up your own engine in the first place, there really isn't a problem. However, the DAR may see the entry and declare your 'certificated' engine as 'experimental' and increase your fly-off time. If the engine/prop combination is experimental anyway, this would be a moot point. If it were me, I'd add the logbook entry after I had my airworthiness certificate in hand. Linn ..... IMHO, of course. do not archive >Thanks, >Ralph Capen >RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward > >Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's an understatement! > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:35:12 AM PST US From: "Karen and Robert Brown" Subject: RV-List: Ryton sumps --> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" Yesterday, I joined the ranks of people who have broken their ryton = sumps during startup. 3 out of 4 ryton sumps on the field have now = broken at least once. I am not comfortable with that record, so am now = looking at alternatives for replacement. Does anyone have feedback on what options are out there for a forward = facing sump? Bob Brown RV7A last few things...oh, and a NEW INDUCTION SYSTEM! do not archive ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:47:33 AM PST US From: "Steve Struyk" Subject: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" I've read with interest this string and thought I'd add my two cents = worth. I found making the panel one of the more rewarding parts of the project = and did it with a few basic tools. At first I called a few local shops = with CNC machines and was shocked at the price just to do the hole for = my VM-1000. I decided to get creative with the metal template provided = with the VM-1000 and my trusty Craftsman router. First I mounted the = template and blank panel on a piece of 3/4" MDF. Then using a straight = cutting bit with a roller guide, made a very nice opening for the = VM-1000 indicator. After laying out the panel full scale on 1/4" graph paper I did the = remaining holes with an instrument hole cutting punch. = http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHC318 Sure it cost = 150 bucks but it's the right tool for the job, does both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4 = holes. The only other tool needed was a mounting hole jig, 14 bucks. = http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHT250I (I'm a = self admitted tool junkie so needing a couple of tools along the way is = an excuse to buy one.) BTW I'm not partial to Cleaveland, Avery and = others have them as well. A little file work to open holes for things like the Kollsman knob and = VS adjustment screw and that was it. I've got pictures if anybody wants to see them off list. Again, just my two cents worth but it worked for me. Steve Struyk St. Charles MO RV-8, 45 Hours ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:55:05 AM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Ralph, If the plane isn't flying yet then nothing needs to be done. If the plane is flying then a logbook entry would be in line. Because its experimental you don't need any type of certificate. Simply enter that date, and brief description of what you did, then sign it off and print your name. AS you asked I will volunteer a brief description: " Complied with AD ??-??-?? by installing stainless steel oil line." Thats all that needed. Mike Robertson Das Fed >From: "Ralph E. Capen" >To: lycomingengines-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com, >rv6-list@matronics.com, RV7A@yahoogroups.com >Subject: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions >Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 10:11:34 -0400 (GMT-04:00) > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" > >Folks, > >I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a Lycoming >SB leading to an AD for this line. > >After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance? >I'm guessing that it should go in my engine Log-Book. > >Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the >builder - but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying >yet. Is there a specific text for the compliance? > >Thanks, >Ralph Capen >RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward > >Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's >an understatement! > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 08:16:34 AM PST US From: George Inman 204 287 8334 Subject: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting --> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334 I managed to make decent looking square holes using an ordinary power jig saw with a mettle cutting blade. Drill holes at the corners,then use the jig saw to cut close to finished size.Then finish with a flat file. You can do the corners with a small file. > I have a Dynon D-10 that I >want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could >probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest >problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its >outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of >making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle >from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have >VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the >only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC >machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny >looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at >the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any >suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the >Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in >my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks. > >Dean Psiropoulos >RV-6A N197DM -- George H. Inman ghinman@mts.net ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 08:16:37 AM PST US From: "Glen Matejcek" Subject: RV-List: glued canopy --> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" HI All- I have an update on my glued canopy saga. Life has conspired to keep me from working on my project, but the canopy is now glued on, cut, filleted, and the edges are dressed. Along the way I came up with a few data points I'd like to share. First though I'd like to thank those who've gone before, especially Billy and Mickey. Thanks guys! WRT the chemicals used, the cleaner does have a primer element to it. It is very easy to use and the minimum purchase quantity is several times what you will need. The primer itself is about double or more of what you need. The primer forms a very smooth surface for the adhesive to bond to. This is a fundamental requirement of the process. Somewhere out there in cyberworld is a recommendation to scuff the primer if you can't get the adhesive in place right away. This would be a large mistake, as would adding another coat of primer. Per the manufacturer, the adhesive is to be applied to the primer within 2 hours. Between 2 hours and about 3 days, you can simply wash the primer with the cleaner, and it will re-soften it adequately to apply the adhesive. Scuffing the primer will cause a significantly weaker bond, as the adhesive won't flow into the 'tooth'. If you were to scuff the primer, you should remove ALL the affected area and start the process over with the cleaner. Adding a second coat of primer would make an unacceptably thick, and therefore structurally weak, layer. When applying the adhesive, I used perhaps 2 dozen latex gloves. This helped me to keep the project (and myself!) pretty clean. My wife and I had no trouble doing the installation by ourselves. It's really pretty darn slick, and I just can't imagine drilling and using fasteners. I used Billy's idea of scoring the primer from the inside with a screw to locate the big cut, then re-marked it with masking tape on the outside. A die grinder and cutting disc made pretty quick and easy work of the cut. I did underestimate what the final kerf was going to be, but the gasket will take care of that just fine. Once the canopy was cut and removed from the plane, I prepped and finish glued it. This involved back filling the areas where the spacers had been and creating aesthetically pleasing fillets. In most places this is easily done with a gloved finger. For the windscreen base, I used a four inch diameter ceramic candy dish as a squeegee. It worked extremely well, was very convenient to grip, and cleaned up easily. The glue actually had to sit for 2 days before I was comfortable handling it. After 2 weeks, it is a whole lot tougher. To dress the 'big cut', I used 100 and then 220 grit self adhesive sandpaper on both sides of a 1/2 x 1-1/2 x 6" sanding block. I closed the canopy on the block and then sanded both sides of the cut at the same time. This ensured that the two cut edges stayed parallel as I cleaned them up. I final finished them with scotchbrite, and am quite pleased with the results. The way I did my installation, two tubes of adhesive was just about enough to do the canopy, but not the skirt. That will require part of a third tube. How to seal the leading edge of the skirt will take a little thought, but shouldn't be too arduous. As ever, FWIW! Glen Matejcek aerobubba@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:20:39 AM PST US From: "Bruce Gray" Subject: RE: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" Of the 11 holes in my panel, only 6 are round. The rest are 3 inch ATI, (that's 3 inch square with 45 degree clipped corners), 1/3 ATI, rectulangar (AOA), and my VM1000. Now you might be able to do a passing job by hand on the big holes, but the real clincher is locating the instrument mounting holes. If you're mounting with pan head screws you have some fudge factor to oversize the hole if you're off a little bit. But all my instrument mounting screws are countersunk. Which means I had to be dead nuts on. My Glasair III has 5 metal sub panels that mount to a fiberglass frame. My cost to CNC all the panels and holes was under $300 total. The cutter worked from my autocad drawing, which I supplied. Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Struyk Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 10:45 AM Subject: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" I've read with interest this string and thought I'd add my two cents = worth. I found making the panel one of the more rewarding parts of the project = and did it with a few basic tools. At first I called a few local shops = with CNC machines and was shocked at the price just to do the hole for = my VM-1000. I decided to get creative with the metal template provided = with the VM-1000 and my trusty Craftsman router. First I mounted the = template and blank panel on a piece of 3/4" MDF. Then using a straight = cutting bit with a roller guide, made a very nice opening for the = VM-1000 indicator. After laying out the panel full scale on 1/4" graph paper I did the = remaining holes with an instrument hole cutting punch. = http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHC318 Sure it cost = 150 bucks but it's the right tool for the job, does both 3 1/8 and 2 1/4 = holes. The only other tool needed was a mounting hole jig, 14 bucks. = http://cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?numberIHT250I (I'm a = self admitted tool junkie so needing a couple of tools along the way is = an excuse to buy one.) BTW I'm not partial to Cleaveland, Avery and = others have them as well. A little file work to open holes for things like the Kollsman knob and = VS adjustment screw and that was it. I've got pictures if anybody wants to see them off list. Again, just my two cents worth but it worked for me. Steve Struyk St. Charles MO RV-8, 45 Hours ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 08:22:01 AM PST US From: "Bruce Gray" Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" Mike, Because we're not subject to AD's don't you think he should state he complied with the SB rather than the AD? Bruce www.glasair.org -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Robertson Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 10:54 AM Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Ralph, If the plane isn't flying yet then nothing needs to be done. If the plane is flying then a logbook entry would be in line. Because its experimental you don't need any type of certificate. Simply enter that date, and brief description of what you did, then sign it off and print your name. AS you asked I will volunteer a brief description: " Complied with AD ??-??-?? by installing stainless steel oil line." Thats all that needed. Mike Robertson Das Fed >From: "Ralph E. Capen" >To: lycomingengines-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com, >rv6-list@matronics.com, RV7A@yahoogroups.com >Subject: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions >Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 10:11:34 -0400 (GMT-04:00) > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" > >Folks, > >I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a Lycoming >SB leading to an AD for this line. > >After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance? >I'm guessing that it should go in my engine Log-Book. > >Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the >builder - but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying >yet. Is there a specific text for the compliance? > >Thanks, >Ralph Capen >RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward > >Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's >an understatement! > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 08:30:00 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Instrument screws/nuts From: Gerry Filby --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby Folks, I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use anywhere on the panel (although all my instruments are "electronic" apart from 2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI). I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog - but no brass nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the cad plated steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of brass nuts and washers ? __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com Tel: 415 203 9177 ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 08:31:11 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting From: Gerry Filby --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby That's the way I went - one tip - put masking tape 2 layers thick anywhere the base plate of your jigsaw is going to contact the panel - mine got scratched up a bit as the saw travelled across the surface. g > > --> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334 > > > > I managed to make decent looking square holes using an > ordinary power jig saw with a mettle cutting blade. > Drill holes at the corners,then use the jig saw to cut > close to finished size.Then finish with a flat file. > You can do the corners with a small file. > > > > > I have a Dynon D-10 that I > >want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could > >probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest > >problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its > >outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of > >making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle > >from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have > >VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the > >only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC > >machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny > >looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at > >the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any > >suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the > >Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in > >my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks. > > > >Dean Psiropoulos > >RV-6A N197DM > -- __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com Tel: 415 203 9177 ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 08:37:35 AM PST US From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" Subject: Re: RV-List: glued canopy --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" On 8:15:42 2006-05-15 "Glen Matejcek" wrote: > I have an update on my glued canopy saga. Life has conspired to keep > me from working on my project, but the canopy is now glued on, cut, > filleted, and the edges are dressed. Along the way I came up with a > few data points I'd like to share. First though I'd like to thank > those who've gone before, especially Billy and Mickey. Thanks guys! Glen, i've added your post to the Gluing Your Canopy page on the Matronics RV Wiki. You can find it here: Feel free to edit if you'd like to add more info. -Rob ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 08:53:34 AM PST US From: James Freeman Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument screws/nuts --> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman On May 15, 2006, at 10:28 AM, Gerry Filby wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby > > > Folks, > > I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use anywhere on the > panel (although all my instruments are "electronic" apart from > 2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI). > > I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog - but no brass > nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the cad plated > steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of brass nuts > and washers ? > Gerry- The only reason to use the brass hardware is to avoid interference with your compass. If you don't have a compass on your panel, don't worry about it. Stainless nuts and washers are widely available and mostly (but not completely) non-magnetic. These are usually good enough for "gubmint" work. For items that won't be removed frequently, don't overlook soft aluminum pop rivets. They are quick and cheap to install, and can be drilled out more quickly than you can remove a typical threaded fastener. I used them to mount my magnetometer rather than fool around trying to find appropriate brass or nylon hardware. James Freeman ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 08:54:49 AM PST US From: Denis Walsh Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument screws/nuts --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh Grasshoppers or threaded instruments Denis Walsh On May 15, 2006, at 9:28 AM, Gerry Filby wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby > > > Folks, > > I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use anywhere on the > panel (although all my instruments are "electronic" apart from > 2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI). > > I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog - but no brass > nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the cad plated > steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of brass nuts > and washers ? > > __g__ > > ========================================================== > Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com > Tel: 415 203 9177 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 09:06:56 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 for Sale From: "Rainey, Steven A CIV" --> RV-List message posted by: "Rainey, Steven A CIV" Jim, can I get some info on this RV-4?? Where is it located, etc?? contact email from the seller , etc?? thanks......... Steven at Steven.rainey@navy.mil ........... -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Cimino Sent: Friday, May 12, 2006 13:51 Subject: RV-List: RV-4 for Sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" I am listing this for a friend of mine who has an RV-4 for sale. It has = an O-320-D1A with 310 TTAE bought new from Van's. It is VFR and is in = great shape. This is a very nice RV-4 that was built by a close friend = of mine who is a retired sheet metal fabricator. This was the 3rd RV = that he built and the workmanship is flawless. It is yellow and red. = My friend is asking $45,000 for it. If you are interested or have any = other questions you can contact Richard at rblakesl@ptd.net . Or I will = try to answer any questions I can for you. Thanks, Jim Jim Cimino N7TL RV-8 S/N 80039 200+ Hours http://www.geocities.com/jcimino.geo/ ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 09:38:56 AM PST US From: "Terry Watson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" Or maybe work from the back of the panel. But if you do, don't cut the notch for the altimeter setting on the wrong corner. I hear someone did that. Terry -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gerry Filby Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 8:30 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby That's the way I went - one tip - put masking tape 2 layers thick anywhere the base plate of your jigsaw is going to contact the panel - mine got scratched up a bit as the saw travelled across the surface. g > > --> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334 > > > > I managed to make decent looking square holes using an > ordinary power jig saw with a mettle cutting blade. > Drill holes at the corners,then use the jig saw to cut > close to finished size.Then finish with a flat file. > You can do the corners with a small file. > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 09:49:11 AM PST US From: "John Fasching" Subject: Re: RV-List: Rotating the Tires --> RV-List message posted by: "John Fasching" Kyle, I think rotating the tires is a lot of work for minimal returns. I decided some time ago to get the best tires out there and leave them in place. I found that the Goodyear Flight Custom II wear like iron. I have not rotated them and they seem to wear fairly evenly...I use 30PSI....I can't recall when I replaced them, must have been several years ago and many, many, landings, and they still have deep even threads. FWIW John at Salida, CO ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kyle Boatright" Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:20 PM Subject: RV-List: Rotating the Tires > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" > > > I finished my condition inspection yesterday but deferred pulling the = > wheels. A visual inspection indicated that the brakes are in good shape, = > and the tires have plenty of tread left, but it soon will be time to = > rotate the tires left to right again, and when I do that, I'll re-pack = > the wheel bearings. > > Anyway, the point is that whenever I do this, it seems to take forever. = > You'd think it would be doable in a couple of hours, but for me it seems = > to take a half day. Pulling the wheelpants, extracting the cotter pins = > on the axle nuts, pulling loose the brake calipers, alternately jacking = > up one side of the plane, then the other, removing a wheel and putting = > the axle up on wood blocks. Then, it is time to let the air out of the = > tubes, split the wheels, clean and pack the bearings, and reverse the = > process. It takes forever... Which is why I deferred it yesterday. I = > wanted to be done with the condition inspection, which turned out fine, = > except for a broken Adel clamp on one of the exhaust hangars. Also, I = > had my AI replace the mixture control thingie in the carburetor, because = > it wasn't sealing well and it was getting difficult to stop the engine = > with the mixture control. > > Back to the reason for the post... Are there any masters of the tire = > rotation task? If so, what are your suggestions, other than having = > everything at hand when the time comes? > > Suggestions appreciated. > > KB > > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 09:51:01 AM PST US From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" Subject: Re: RV-List: OT - Certified seatbelt data plates --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" do not archive Why don't you buy some new legal ones and replace them yourself? Part 43, appendix A, (C), 14 will allow you do this and all other preventive maintenace which is specifically listed there. This would save you the labor and you can shop for some good seatbelts. Call Wentworth and talk to them about some good pullouts with tags... Just an idea, Phil in Illinois Folbrecht, Paul wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul" > >Thanks for all the replies on this. Mechanic says that re-webbing is >NOT an option because that requires valid belts to start with, and these >are not. They are some bogus belts installed back who knows when. Of >course, they are in perfect shape and completely sturdy and safe. > >Oh well, another $400 gone. > >Do not archive > >- > >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Folbrecht, Paul" >To: >Sent: Wednesday, May 10, 2006 12:55 PM >Subject: RV-List: OT - Certified seatbelt data plates > > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Folbrecht, Paul" >> >> >>A&P is making me replace the belts on my '79 152 now in annual because >> >> >= > > >>the data plates are missing. The plates on the belts, that is. >> >> >Perhaps = > > >>I'm quite na=EFve, but I wasn't aware of such a thing, and in any case >> >> >= > > >>the previous two annuals I've done on this aircraft caused no such = >>complaints, and the last one was at the same shop! (Different head = >>mechanic now, though.) >> >> >> >>This is over $300 plus labor. What next? I had a $4K annual last >> >> >year = > > >>on this $25K aircraft and am looking at the same kind of bill again >> >> >this = > > >>year! All for mostly "little" stuff that just adds up like crazy - no >> >> >= > > >>motor work. I can't wait to own an experimental! >> >> >> >>Rant off. Do not archive! >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 10:22:42 AM PST US From: Jerry2DT@aol.com Subject: Re:RV-List: Inst panel hole cutting --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com Dean, I have successfully used a router table to cut very clean and straight lines on my panel. First, I cut with a hole saw, jig saw, or other means to get close to the edge. Then with a small, .125" cutter in the router, and a fence made from a piece of .063 alum angle one can progressively take small cuts out to the edge you want. If you need smaller than .125 radius at the corners, you can predrill those before routing. This method results in a finish comparable to professional machining if you are careful, and it is relatively fast compared to filing, etc... You will need to devise a method to keep the fence solidly in place while routing but easy to move. With mine, I simply use clamps. You will need a variable speed control. Harbor Freight. Cheap. It is important to practice on a similar piece and learn the technique first. Did I mention this is inexpensive? Provide you already have router access, of course. Disclaimer and warning: Routers can be dangerous cutting aluminum, so take small cuts, say .003, push work against cutter rotation, not with, or there could be an ugly surprise. Wear eye protection and leather gloves. FWIW, YMMV, etc. Hope this helps Jerry Cochran Wilsonville, OR In a message dated 5/15/2006 12:04:44 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rv-list@matronics.com writes: Time: 11:10:30 AM PST US From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" Subject: --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" Quick question folks: I'm finally to the point where I HAVE to cut the instrument and engine monitor display holes in my panel blanks. I thought I had some folks close by who could do that but in talking to them yesterday I discovered that they really don't have the capabilities that I need. I have a Dynon D-10 that I want to flush mount and that requires a nicely made SQUARE hole. That could probably be done with an old hand operated milling machine. The biggest problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display. Its outside edges are basically a square hole but at the corners, instead of making them 90 degrees, they transition into something like a 45 deg angle from the vertical lines to the horizontal lines. Those of you who have VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC machined. Since there is no bezel that fits over the top of this funny looking hole, it has to be done right the first time or I'll be looking at the botched workmanship every time I check my engine parameters. Any suggestions about how I'm might achieve this. Is there anyone east of the Mississippi river that has machining templates to do this or can I do it in my shop with common tools somehow? Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Trying to get the wiring finished ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 12:02:50 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Inst panel hole cutting From: "Rick Galati" --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" dean.psiropoulos(at)veriz wrote: > ......... The biggest > problem though is the Vision Microsystems engine monitor display...... Those of you who have VM-1000 know what I'm talking about and needless to say, I'm convinced the only way to get a nice looking hole to put this display in is to have it CNC machined. Dean, I did not find the VM-1000 hole to be particularily difficult to fashion at all. As my usual practice in approaching such things, I rough cut the hole open as large as possible with a fiber cutoff wheel...the same one used to separate the canopy bubble...then using various high speed rotary files in a standard die grinder and a combination of smaller files and stones in a pencil grinder, I think the VM-1000 opening came out just fine. http://img478.imageshack.us/img478/7321/00001139tx.jpg Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34741#34741 ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 02:11:35 PM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Rotating the Tires From: "Wentz, Don" --> RV-List message posted by: "Wentz, Don" Wow, Something to remember, although I also finished installing new tires last weekend. Most RV guys I know do ONE tire 'rotation' for the life of the tire. If you wait until the insides of the tires are just about done before you rotate, you should only have to do it once, and it will significantly lengthen the life of your tires. My 'AeroTrainers' lasted a little over 300 hrs, and with one 'rotation', a set of "Condors" lasted 600 hrs on my RV-6 (the grooves were still just visible, no cording). I can't do the swap in an hour and a half, but all of Dan's tips should help. Don RV-6 925hrs -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway Sent: Sunday, May 14, 2006 7:49 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Rotating the Tires --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Rotated mine today. It took about an hour and a half. Once you get the system down it goes more quickly. Here are my "tips": 1. I use 3/8" long screws on the wheel pants instead of the 1/2" screws called out on the plans. Shorter screws means fewer threads...means the screws are in/out faster. Also saves a tiny bit of weight (whatever). 2. I use a 7/16" "ratcheting dogbone" wrench on the bolts that attach the outsides of the wheel pants to the axle nut. This makes very quick work of getting those bolts out and back in. You might be able to get a small socket wrench on there, but I find the ratcheting dogbone is exactly what the doctor ordered. 3. Remove the valve stem completely when working with tubes. When you said "let the air out" in your email below, I wasn't sure how you were doing that...so if you're not removing the valve stem, do that. Air is let out very quickly (pretty much instantely...no need to hold the valve) and the tubes are much easier to work with when scrunching 'em up to fit into the tires. 4. This is general advice rather than a trick...DO NOT HANDLE A FULLY INFLATED TIRE/WHEEL that is not held captive by the axle nut. While it's extraordinarily unlikely, it HAS happened -- the wheel can "explode" by virtue of the halves separating, becoming projectiles. I *ALWAYS* remove the valve stem completely before loosening the axle nut. I re-inflate the tires only after the wheel is on the axle with the axle nut ON. In your email below it sounded like you removed the wheel from the axle and then let the air out. Ask around among A&Ps or shops and you'll hear some real horror stories. I met one guy personally who suffered a head injury when a wheel separated. Hope this helps... )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (904 hours) http://www.rvproject.com Do not archive ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 02:53:01 PM PST US From: "Wesley T Robinson" Subject: RV-List: EAA Chapter 731 Fly-in at Morganton-Lenoir, NC, May 20th --> RV-List message posted by: "Wesley T Robinson" Listers, EAA Chapter 731 is holding their Spring Fly-in at Morganton-Lenoir, NC (KMRN) on May 20th. Join us for food, fun, and flying! Should be a great day with quite a few aircraft attending. An award will be given to the best RV and to aircraft in other categories. Check the club website for full details. www.eaa731.org Wesley T Robinson WR Consulting EAA 731 Web/Newsletter Editor RV-9A N224WR 150Hrs ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 03:55:45 PM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" You're choice, but as the AD calls out the SB I feel it would be better to call out the AD. That way if any question should come up down the line you are able to point right to the entry instead of having to explain that the SB is called out in the AD and therefore the same. Mike Robertson >From: "Bruce Gray" >To: >Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions >Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 11:19:15 -0400 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" > >Mike, > >Because we're not subject to AD's don't you think he should state he >complied with the SB rather than the AD? > >Bruce >www.glasair.org > > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mike Robertson >Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 10:54 AM >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" > >Ralph, > >If the plane isn't flying yet then nothing needs to be done. If the plane >is flying then a logbook entry would be in line. Because its experimental >you don't need any type of certificate. Simply enter that date, and brief >description of what you did, then sign it off and print your name. > >AS you asked I will volunteer a brief description: " Complied with AD >??-??-?? by installing stainless steel oil line." Thats all that needed. > >Mike Robertson >Das Fed > > > >From: "Ralph E. Capen" > >To: lycomingengines-list@matronics.com, rv-list@matronics.com, > >rv6-list@matronics.com, RV7A@yahoogroups.com > >Subject: RV-List: AD compliance documentation questions > >Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 10:11:34 -0400 (GMT-04:00) > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" > > > >Folks, > > > >I just added the hard-line for my prop governor. There is also a >Lycoming > >SB leading to an AD for this line. > > > >After I comply with the requirements, how do I document the compliance? > >I'm guessing that it should go in my engine Log-Book. > > > >Here are the questions: Am I authorized to make the entry? I am the > >builder - but I don't have my ltd A&P for the airframe as it isn't flying > >yet. Is there a specific text for the compliance? > > > >Thanks, > >Ralph Capen > >RV6AQB N822AR @ N06 Firewall Foreward > > > >Building an experimental is supposed to be a learning experience - that's > >an understatement! > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 05:08:40 PM PST US From: "RV6 Flyer" Subject: RE: RV-List: Ryton sumps --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" There are several out there. ECI makes a metal one that I saw at Oshkosh and it was several pounds ligher than the one Lycoming sells. This is ECI's experimental one: http://www.eci2fly.com/exp/cis_flyer.pdf http://www.eci2fly.com/exp/cis_tds.pdf http://www.superflite.com/products.asp?p=115&SID=17&SN=Front%20Servo%20Sump I thought that Raven Aircraft also had a 4 cylinder parallel valve version but cannot find it anymore. Only the 540 version. http://www.ravenaircraft.com/raven_012.htm http://www.skydynamics.com/maxisump.html http://users.adelphia.net/~aeroengine/Barrett.html http://www.attawayair.com/eci_fi_system.htm http://www.performanceengines.com/images/LineCard.pdf I remember seeing a link to another one out there but cannot find it now. Lets put this one in the archives for next time when we go looking for cold air sumps. Gary A. Sobek "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell, 1,852 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Karen and Robert Brown" Subject: RV-List: Ryton sumps --> RV-List message posted by: "Karen and Robert Brown" Yesterday, I joined the ranks of people who have broken their ryton = sumps during startup. 3 out of 4 ryton sumps on the field have now = broken at least once. I am not comfortable with that record, so am now = looking at alternatives for replacement. Does anyone have feedback on what options are out there for a forward = facing sump? Bob Brown RV7A last few things...oh, and a NEW INDUCTION SYSTEM! ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 06:16:49 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: AD compliance documentation questions From: "N395V" --> RV-List message posted by: "N395V" Not everyone who will one day see the logbook or own the plane understand the regs (or lack thereof) governing experimentals. As such in my opinion we should strive to make log entries as though it were a certified aircraft. No harm is done by noting compliance with an AD. In my opinion it demonstrates professionalism and enhances knowledge and value of the aircraft. do not archive. -------- Milt N395V F1 Rocket Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=34800#34800 ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 06:16:49 PM PST US From: Paul Besing Subject: Re: RV-List: Instrument screws/nuts --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing I just used some really cool stainless hex head screws from home depot. Works great. I think the brass screw thing is an old wives tale, personally...that is unless you are using them screw in a compass. Paul Besing --- James Freeman wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman > > > > On May 15, 2006, at 10:28 AM, Gerry Filby wrote: > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby > > > > > > > Folks, > > > > I'm assuming that brass screws are what to use > anywhere on the > > panel (although all my instruments are > "electronic" apart from > > 2 steam gauges - altimeter and ASI). > > > > I see various brass screws in Spruce's catalog - > but no brass > > nuts and washers - do folks generally go with the > cad plated > > steel locknuts (AN365) ? Or is there a source of > brass nuts > > and washers ? > > > > Gerry- > > The only reason to use the brass hardware is to > avoid interference > with your compass. If you don't have a compass on > your panel, don't > worry about it. > > Stainless nuts and washers are widely available and > mostly (but not > completely) non-magnetic. These are usually good > enough for "gubmint" > work. > > For items that won't be removed frequently, don't > overlook soft > aluminum pop rivets. They are quick and cheap to > install, and can be > drilled out more quickly than you can remove a > typical threaded > fastener. I used them to mount my magnetometer > rather than fool > around trying to find appropriate brass or nylon > hardware. > > James Freeman > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > > Admin. > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 06:22:24 PM PST US From: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Ryton sumps --> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com We also had a broken sump on the Superior XP-360. I don't even know if it is a Ryton. It has been replaced but I am very leery of it now. Seems we were running a bit lean at low power. It back fired on start up. Our servo was a repaired unit so we got a new one but not sure it is any different. Please give me some input if u are running the same engine. 1. What is the fuel flow at take off power....we show 16.3 GPH. 2. What are the EGT's at some altitude at full rich. 3. What are the EGT's at that altitude after leaning on the rich side Appreciate any and all info on this engine. We are not confident that things are as they should be and concerned with causing damage. Thanks, Doug Preston RV-7A N196VA ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 06:53:18 PM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: AD compliance documentation questions --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England N395V wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "N395V" > >Not everyone who will one day see the logbook or own the plane understand the regs (or lack thereof) governing experimentals. > >As such in my opinion we should strive to make log entries as though it were a certified aircraft. > >No harm is done by noting compliance with an AD. In my opinion it demonstrates professionalism and enhances knowledge and value of the aircraft. > >do not archive. > >-------- >Milt >N395V >F1 Rocket > That's kinda like saying there's no harm in letting the cops do a warrant-less search of your car for drugs if you don't use drugs. Or letting the Gummint have a record of all your phone calls & emails if you aren't a terrorist. Always consider carefully the precedents you allow to be set. Charlie ________________________________ Message 38 ____________________________________ Time: 07:22:33 PM PST US From: "Bruce Gray" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: AD compliance documentation questions --> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Gray" Never, EVER give a law enforcement officer consent to search anything. Make them jump through all the hoops, probable cause, warrant, etc. The Supreme Court has already ruled that your incoming/outgoing phone number list is NOT protected. No warrant is necessary. Same with emails and content, no expectation of privacy. Everyone says we failed to connect the dots, but fail to see that we need the dots to connect first. Bruce www.glasair.org Do not archive. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Sent: Monday, May 15, 2006 9:51 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: AD compliance documentation questions --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England N395V wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "N395V" > >Not everyone who will one day see the logbook or own the plane understand the regs (or lack thereof) governing experimentals. > >As such in my opinion we should strive to make log entries as though it were a certified aircraft. > >No harm is done by noting compliance with an AD. In my opinion it demonstrates professionalism and enhances knowledge and value of the aircraft. > >do not archive. > >-------- >Milt >N395V >F1 Rocket > That's kinda like saying there's no harm in letting the cops do a warrant-less search of your car for drugs if you don't use drugs. Or letting the Gummint have a record of all your phone calls & emails if you aren't a terrorist. Always consider carefully the precedents you allow to be set. Charlie