Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:09 AM - Re: Fiberglass tips for tip up (LarryRobertHelming)
2. 05:29 AM - Re: Fiberglass tips for tip up (Tim Bolton)
3. 07:21 AM - Re: Tie Downs ()
4. 07:45 AM - Re: Routing magneto and alternator blast tubes... ()
5. 08:31 AM - whippersnapper (Wheeler North)
6. 08:35 AM - ti tie downs (Wheeler North)
7. 08:48 AM - Re: ti tie downs (Konrad L. Werner)
8. 08:52 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 06/15/06 (Wheeler North)
9. 09:10 AM - carbs (Wheeler North)
10. 09:42 AM - accessing Nav antena RV6a (George Inman 204 287 8334)
11. 10:52 AM - Re: accessing Nav antena RV6a (JOHN STARN)
12. 10:06 PM - Re: Fiberglass tips for tip up (sarg314)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips for tip up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I built mine from fiber glass and it is removable also. I laid it up on the
canopy/canopy frame after covering it with a layer of plastic saran wrap.
After it sets up, pop it loose. Sand and finish it, paint it, drill it and
attach with screws. I also used some Lexel sparingly. Works great after
100+ hours of flight. No chance of accidentally sanding into your canopy
like with other fiberglass attachments. Only down side is it takes about a
week or so to get a perfect finished product. If I was good with metal I
might of tried that method. However, fiber glass is a great way to get a
real quality finish. I am working on a targa strip now using the same
method. Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fiberglass tips for tip up
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> Frank:
> You don't have to use fiberglass at all. I didn't like the idea of
> epoxying fiberglass to the aluminum. It would make changing out the
> canopy very difficult. I followed the instructions in the RV-ator for
> making the front fairing from a sheet of 0.025 aluminum. It took an
> afternoon. My third attempt fit perfectly. Fiberglass would have taken
> much more time. I can remove it by drilling out the soft pop rivets that
> hold it in. Lexel seals the aluminum to the plexi. I like to make things
> so they can be disassembled.
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips for tip up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bolton" <timbolton@therv7.com>
sarg314,
Any chance we can get some photos?
Tim
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
>posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
>The little doggy ties, even when made of titanium are useless.
I have used the cork screw type but out of mild steel. They are
hell to screw into hard rocky gound. They constantly break when
you try to install them in hard or rocky ground. As tough as Ti, it
will bend and twist when you try to torque the triangle head with
a lever or stick. The cross section is a rather small rod.
Also poorly designed is the top triangle loop, which is not welded.
It may save weight and be Good enough, it does no good if you
can't get it into the ground.
Most of use will not carry our tie downs with us except for the long
X-C and airshows. Lose 8 lbs off you a** and that will cover the
extra weight of the claw, which should be way easier to install
and remove in all conditions.
George M. RV-4/RV-7
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Sports Fantasy Football 06 - Go with the leader. Start your league today!
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Routing magneto and alternator blast tubes... |
>From: "Joe Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
>
>I'm building an RV-9A with an O-320 & carb, a Slick Mag,
>a P-Mag, and Van's 35 amp alternator. Where should I
>direct the blast tubes for the Mag and P-Mag?
The alt, the 35 amp one Van sells is an old NipponDenso
alternator for a early 80's Honda. I agree towards the back
at the diodes. Consider a little metal shield on the #1
exhaust pipe held on with hose clamps and standoffs.
The KEY to not heating that small alternator is keep the
battery in good shape, make sure the engine is tuned for
easy starting and let the engine run (and battery charge)
for a little bit (10-15 seconds) before slamming on all the
electric's on. While you are waiting you can adjust the idle
and mixture, clear the area and check the engine gauges.
The reason I say this is your alternator is only 35 amps.
You don't want to load the alternator more than 60-70%
continuous. So 35 x 0.60 is 21.0 amps. A drained battery
right after start can pull 10 amps or more. Throw on all
your radios and lights right after start you might exceed
this arbitrary drain and over heat the alternator, which will
reduce its life. The key is keep the alternator load down
on the ground when airflow is low. For some reason Van's
sells these alternators with out the stock cooling fan, may
be save weight and engine drag (lost HP).
Just because it is rated at 35amps does not mean it can
output that without eventually melting. Plus with the
hot exhaust nearby and the stock fan removed you have
a good chance of cutting the life down real short if you
don't observe some load limits, especially on the ground.
For the mag consider removing the inspection plug and
blowing it right in the housing**. Of course you will want
some kind of filter and screen. An alternative is just at the
side of the mag to promote general cooler airflow for the
hottest part, the coils.
**Speed w/ Economy by Kent Paser
The P-mags? I have no idea, but near the coil or electronics,
spacifically transitiors.
George M. RV-4/RV-7
---------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups gets better. Check out the new email design. Plus theres much more
to come.
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Mike, your plan B means that you have to let the whipper snapper out of the
closet. According to my rules for parenting one is supposed to let them
ripen in there for at least 30 years.
;{) do not archive
You could send a young whipper snapper down the fuse inside if all else
fails:-)
Have you removed the fairing and tried to reach down in there?
Best,
Mike
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Tim,
Don't know, but I've had that idea for several years.
I once sent Randy an email asking if he would make them for me, but alas, no
reply.... he must make his living by another means.
W
Time: 01:59:53 PM PST US
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tie Downs
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Wheeler, I have the Claw tiedowns too, and they work great.
Question for any of you who may be "in the know" on metal sources
though....
Do you think that titanium stakes for use in the claw would save
a bit of weight? It comes with 9 steel stakes, and it adds up
a bit. If I could spend $50 extra and get titanium, I may
consider it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: ti tie downs |
Who says that Randy is alive? Anyone know for sure?
----- Original Message -----
From: Wheeler North
To: 'RV-List Digest Server '
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 9:33 AM
Subject: RV-List: ti tie downs
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Tim,
Don't know, but I've had that idea for several years.
I once sent Randy an email asking if he would make them for me, but
alas, no
reply.... he must make his living by another means.
W
Time: 01:59:53 PM PST US
From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Tie Downs
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Wheeler, I have the Claw tiedowns too, and they work great.
Question for any of you who may be "in the know" on metal sources
though....
Do you think that titanium stakes for use in the claw would save
a bit of weight? It comes with 9 steel stakes, and it adds up
a bit. If I could spend $50 extra and get titanium, I may
consider it.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
--
6/16/2006
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 06/15/06 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Paul,
to the contrare,
a yanking tug is more likely to pull it free than is a constant pull.
Hence the use of impact type drivers.
That's also the reason one puts chain on an anchor. The chain takes up the
"yank" of the boat so that the anchor has a constant pull as well as
changing the pull vector which tends to dig it in rather than pull it out.
The same is true for properly securing a boat, you always put a spring line
in during heavy WX because that yanking will tear the lines and or rip the
cleats out of the doc. A good spring will cause the boat to rotate and
wobble rather than snap at the end of its yank.
If your wings can lift 2500 lbs at 48 kts and yank and tug with however dang
much that momentum energy is (far more than an engine hoist hanging static)
and periphrial winds around a tornado easily exceed 100 kts as far as
several hundreds of yards away my feeling is that I want more than a
titanium curley fry stuck in the ground... truth is, I carry both, when WX
comes into OSH I throw it all into the ground. And then I pray.
;{)
and please do not archive this
While I'm sure the claw works great, I don't think the
kind of loads that these tie downs see aren't anywhere
close to what an engine hoist would pull. The loads
are going to be brief jerking when gusts of winds
might hit the airplane. An engine hoist is going to
progressively pull harder and consistently.
I've seen these tie downs hold down some buckling
airplanes with no problem. Plus, they screw into just
about anything without bending or breaking.
Paul Besing
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Do you know of any modifications
(experimental only) that can be done to improve this situation?
Charlie,
yeah, basically the old tractor carbs suck, but they don't suck for long
enough.... ;{)
I've been thinking about it and looking for years but everything I come up
with that might do it has the potential to fail sending bad things into the
engine.
But a whizzing chopper fan that fits up into the sump would do it. A few of
the older radials do this. The gear driven impeller really wasn't for
boosting it's just for mixing and evenly distributing.
But one would really want a strong screen around it....
do not archive
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | accessing Nav antena RV6a |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman@mts.net>
I have an RV-8 ,and use the following method to
crawl into the tail cone.
Place several pillows on bottom of the tail cone
between the bulkheads
Place long piece/pieces of plywood on top of pillows
Crawl on top of plywood.
I weigh about 160lbs,so if you weigh a lot more
get someone smaller to do it.
I found out that my nav antena under the tail end of fusl is on the
fritz, balun conn is suspect. I didnt build the plane so assume it was
mounted durring build. How to access it? Can one crawl back far enough
to reach it? or cut an access hole? (if so is that a good idea as the
place would be put over the hole without indentations like other acess
hole have) Charlie Heathco
--
George H. Inman
ghinman@mts.net
Home 204 287 8334
Cell 204 799 7062
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: accessing Nav antena RV6a |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
It's been a while back (7-8 years ago) but when doing the tail cone on HRII
N561FS we took a 5' piece of 3/8" plywood and cut it to fit. It looked like
a thin surfboard with notches cut in the sides to match the bulk heads. It
was cut so the surfboard rested only on the flat areas of the bulk heads.We
has several couch pillows that we placed between each of the bulkheads. We
made the "surfboard" before putting the top skin in place. I weight in at
240# but had the looong arms required to reach the far end. Ran the light
cord out thru the rear inspection hole (tube type to reduce heat) & put a
fan between my feet. We have reused it several times, rotate it to install
or remove. On HRII we would have to pull the elevator tube to use it now.
Things I would have done different: Sand & paint (white) the surf board,
especially the edges. Lots of splinters when sliding in and/or out. KABONG
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Inman 204 287 8334" <ghinman@mts.net>
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 9:39 AM
Subject: RV-List: accessing Nav antena RV6a
> --> RV-List message posted by: George Inman 204 287 8334 <ghinman@mts.net>
>
>
> I have an RV-8 ,and use the following method to
> crawl into the tail cone.
> Place several pillows on bottom of the tail cone
> between the bulkheads
> Place long piece/pieces of plywood on top of pillows
> Crawl on top of plywood.
> I weigh about 160lbs,so if you weigh a lot more
> get someone smaller to do it.
>
>
> I found out that my nav antena under the tail end of fusl is on the fritz,
> balun conn is suspect. I didnt build the plane so assume it was mounted
> durring build. How to access it? Can one crawl back far enough to reach
> it? or cut an access hole? (if so is that a good idea as the place would
> be put over the hole without indentations like other acess hole have)
> Charlie Heathco
>
> --
>
> George H. Inman
> ghinman@mts.net
> Home 204 287 8334
> Cell 204 799 7062
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass tips for tip up |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Charlie:
I did the work in apr. 2004, so it was definitely before that. I
checked my index of RV-ators which covers a 4 or 5 year period before
2004 and didn't spot it. It's not in the 21 years of the RV-ator book
either which ends at 2000. I think it was some time between 2000 and
2004 even though I didn't spot it.
Ken at van's has talked to me about it - in fact I think he
suggested it to me. He may be able to point you to the right issue.
I'll let you know if I find it.
Charlie Kuss wrote:
> Tom,
> I'm building an 8A, but like you, I prefer to make things removable.
> It sure makes maintenance and future repairs easier. I would also
> appreciate seeing photos if you have them. What issue of the RVator
> was this info in?
> Charlie Kuss
> Boca Raton, Florida
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>>
>> Frank:
>> You don't have to use fiberglass at all. I didn't like the idea of
>> epoxying fiberglass to the aluminum. It would make changing out the
>> canopy very difficult. I followed the instructions in the RV-ator
>> for making the front fairing from a sheet of 0.025 aluminum.
>
> snipped
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|