Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:41 AM - Re: Trio EZ Pilot-Redux (Paul Besing)
2. 04:47 AM - Re: Vans New Nose Gear Fork (David Burden)
3. 07:36 AM - RV-10 Empennage For Sale (Tim Nash)
4. 12:39 PM - "putting back" the vinyl (sarg314)
5. 12:57 PM - Re: "putting back" the vinyl (Sam Buchanan)
6. 01:14 PM - Re: "putting back" the vinyl (Mickey Coggins)
7. 02:13 PM - Re: "putting back" the vinyl (Dave Nellis)
8. 03:31 PM - vetterman exhaust, RV-6A with 0-360 (sarg314)
9. 03:46 PM - Re: vetterman exhaust, RV-6A with 0-360 (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
10. 04:19 PM - Re: vetterman exhaust, RV-6A with 0-360 (sarg314)
11. 04:43 PM - Re: vetterman exhaust, RV-6A with 0-360 (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
12. 06:31 PM - RV 10 main intersection fairins ready (Bob Snedaker)
13. 06:55 PM - Re: "putting back" the vinyl (Jim Jewell)
14. 07:19 PM - Re: "putting back" the vinyl (Steven DiNieri)
15. 10:24 PM - Trio Report (Wheeler North)
16. 10:40 PM - Re: RV 10 main intersection fairins ready (Paul Besing)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Trio EZ Pilot-Redux |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Haven't flown mine yet...still finishing up the
install. I can tell you this, TruTrak has some
serious competition for the wing leveler/heading
market. I sent my TruTrak Digitrak back.
So far from the support, manual, and features, this
thing is a slam dunk. TruTrak may have great higher
end autopilots, but this thing blows the digitrak
away. Oh and Navaid? It was a sweet ride while it
lasted!
How many autopilot companies monitor and respond to
RV-List questions...on the weekend, no less?
Paul Besing
RV-4 N73DD
Arizona
Haven't even flown the Trio and lovin' it.
--- Larry Pardue <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue
> <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
>
> Howdy,
>
> I was very discouraged with my brand new Trio
> EZ-Pilot last night
> after having found out it is not plug and play with
> my Navaid
> autopilot and then discovering baffling turn
> coordinator display
> issues and accompanying strange aircraft behavior.
> Tonight I am
> greatly encouraged and happy about my decision to
> get the EZ-Pilot.
>
> Tonight I treated the machine in a way it would be
> normally treated
> after an install. First I took a hint from Gary
> Sobek and moved just
> one of my analog steering wires to a different
> position on the GPS
> connector and to a different position on the old
> Navaid connector.
> That let the GPS talk to the EZ-Pilot. Then I
> verified, on the
> ground, that the connection was working properly,
> then started up and
> flew.
>
> Things were completely different than yesterday.
> First I tried all
> the EZ-Pilot functions, and there are some real nice
> ones. I think
> the one I will use the most is where you are
> tracking a course line,
> then ATC tells you to turn 15 degrees right, rather
> than disengage
> the autopilot and have to hand fly, you can just
> give it the course
> to fly, then intercept the old course later, if
> needed. Everything
> worked beautifully and smoothly.
>
> Then I tried to duplicate what happened yesterday by
> turning off the
> GPS, entering calibration screens, turning off the
> autopilot and
> everything I could think of, in every order I could
> think off, but I
> could not confuse the autopilot. About the worst
> thing I could get
> to happen would be to do a steep turn then return to
> wings level
> flight and the turn coordinator would very slightly
> and briefly
> overshoot, showing an opposite direction turn.
>
> The only thing I can think of is what the Trio
> engineer suggested
> this morning. Since I never had the GPS working
> correctly yesterday,
> the gyro (gyros?) may never have gotten properly
> oriented and may
> have used an out of date bias value. As stated in
> their literature,
> they do not use gravity to help orient the gyro.
> Today I tried what I
> was worried about yesterday. I would fly a course
> then turn off the
> GPS. No problem, it just gave a no GPS warning and
> kept trucking. I
> would then maneuver (everything short of aerobatics)
> and return to
> straight and level with proper indications the whole
> time. I also
> tried wings level yaws, and yes the indicator reacts
> to that. In a
> stable slip it indicates level/straight, which seems
> logical.
>
> And yes, if you were already using digital GPS
> information for your
> existing Navaid, it would be a fifteen minute
> installation, although
> Trio doesn't make that claim. If you were using
> analog steering
> information, you have to run one new wire, or move
> an existing one over.
>
> By the way, those of you in the tailwheel, versus
> tri-gear debate,
> which I don't participate in, here is some fodder.
> The tailwheel
> airplane is at a big disadvantage when you drop
> those little tiny
> screws and nuts from the D connectors onto the
> uncarpeted floor
> while upside down working in a restricted area under
> the panel. They
> scurry straight downhill and lodge under the spar
> (RV-6) where they
> are lost forever.
>
> I really appreciate the great and cheerful support
> Trio gave me
> today. You guys have a terrific product.
>
> Larry Pardue
> Carlsbad, NM
>
> RV-6 N441LP Flying
> http://n5lp.net
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Vans New Nose Gear Fork |
Listers,
I also just switched my RV9a fork to the new style.
Van now uses the new fork exclusively--it comes standard in his kits.
I did not send mine off but purchased a high quality threader (adjustable and
not Chinese) removed the leg, clamped it in wood in a big vise, and proceeded
to induce a severe case of tendenitis. I used a large "stock" or handle for
the threader and had some help. Every 1/2 thread we stopped and blew out the
metal and applied more cutting oil. It took about 5 cycles using progressively
tighter adjustment on the threader until the nut threaded properly. The threads
must be extended up about 1 inch to accomodate the new fork. We then used
a mechanical hack saw to cut off the excess 1 inch of gear leg. The saw cut
it without any problem. It took me a day and a half to get the threads right
but it was better than sending it off to the Oregon machine shop that Vans recommends
-- the cost quoted by the shop was good ($75) but the shipping was going
to be expensive and I did not want the plane down for 2 wks.
I also thought about simply buying a new gear leg already made for the new fork
but learned that my leg was one of the last to be match drilled to my specific
motor mount. I understand that now all legs are drilled to a common jig.
I did not want to take the chance of minor alignment issues.
If you have questions about the process you can email me direct.
Cheers,
db
Message 3
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| Subject: | RV-10 Empennage For Sale |
I am moving to a RV-9A and have a completed RV-10 empennage for sale. It
can be viewed at www.trucktrac.com/rv_project will not turn down any
reasonable offer. Has been inspected by technical advisor and
documented.
Tim Nash (703) 591-1634
tim.nash3@verizon.net
Message 4
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| Subject: | "putting back" the vinyl |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I'll be cutting/drilling my panel soon. It doesn't have any protective
vinyl on it (if indeed it ever did). Is there any way I can protect
the surface from scratching while I work on it? I need to be able to
draw on what ever I cover it with, although I guess I could draw on the
bare aluminum first and then coat it with something transparent.
Any ideas?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: "putting back" the vinyl |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
sarg314 wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I'll be cutting/drilling my panel soon. It doesn't have any protective
> vinyl on it (if indeed it ever did). Is there any way I can protect
> the surface from scratching while I work on it? I need to be able to
> draw on what ever I cover it with, although I guess I could draw on the
> bare aluminum first and then coat it with something transparent.
>
> Any ideas?
Masking tape.
Sam Buchanan
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: "putting back" the vinyl |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> I'll be cutting/drilling my panel soon. It doesn't have any protective
> vinyl on it (if indeed it ever did). Is there any way I can protect
> the surface from scratching while I work on it? I need to be able to
> draw on what ever I cover it with, although I guess I could draw on the
> bare aluminum first and then coat it with something transparent.
>
> Any ideas?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Tom, you can go to just about any home improvement store and buy
clear shelf paper that will stick nicely. I use this stuff all
over the project when I want to temporarily protect something.
It sticks well, but is easy to peel off without leaving behind
a lot of gunk. Prevents scratching, and is easy to mark on with
a permanent marker.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: "putting back" the vinyl |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Nellis <truflite@yahoo.com>
Sam has good idea. But to better it that idea, use
blue painter's masking tape. It has lighter tack and
won't leave a glue residue if left on for a long time.
Dave
--- Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan
> <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> sarg314 wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314
> <sarg314@comcast.net>
> >
> > I'll be cutting/drilling my panel soon. It
> doesn't have any protective
> > vinyl on it (if indeed it ever did). Is there
> any way I can protect
> > the surface from scratching while I work on it? I
> need to be able to
> > draw on what ever I cover it with, although I
> guess I could draw on the
> > bare aluminum first and then coat it with
> something transparent.
> >
> > Any ideas?
>
>
>
> Masking tape.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 8
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| Subject: | vetterman exhaust, RV-6A with 0-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I'm trying to get my exhaust to fit with the cowl - clearance between
heat muff (on the right side of plane) and the lower cowl is an issue.
When I get the pipes twisted around so that they
1) give me the best clearance between heat muff & cowl and ehxhaust pipe
& engine mount
2) exit the cowl scoop pretty well parallel to the long axis of the
plane as seen from looking up laying underneath it,
the right one is angled down a lot more than the left one. Left one
(which has lots of clearance) is about 25 deg. rel. to bottom of
fuselage, right one is about 40 deg. Is this normal?
The end of the right pipe sticks down about 2.5" below the ram scoop
while the left one stick down about 1.5". My recollection is that RV's
usually have some assymmetry in this respect.
Or, have I just got it adjusted wrong?
-
Tom Sargent
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: vetterman exhaust, RV-6A with 0-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 6/25/06 6:33:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
sarg314@comcast.net writes:
> 2) exit the cowl scoop pretty well parallel to the long axis of the
> plane as seen from looking up laying underneath it,
>
> the right one is angled down a lot more than the left one. Left one
> (which has lots of clearance) is about 25 deg. rel. to bottom of
> fuselage, right one is about 40 deg. Is this normal?
>
> The end of the right pipe sticks down about 2.5" below the ram scoop
> while the left one stick down about 1.5". My recollection is that RV's
> usually have some assymmetry in this respect.
> Or, have I just got it adjusted wrong?
> -
> Tom Sargent
=======================
Tom:
You are correct. I have the same problem ... right one is lower than the
left. I also have been fighting CO in the cabin. I tried what I believe is very
thing ... Until I came up with a solution. I added extensions with a
downward bend and a baloney cut to the exhaust. This reduced the CO to ZERO.
But, the right side is still lower than the left.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: vetterman exhaust, RV-6A with 0-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
FLYaDIVE@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 6/25/06 6:33:24 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>sarg314@comcast.net writes:
>
>
>
>>2) exit the cowl scoop pretty well parallel to the long axis of the
>> plane as seen from looking up laying underneath it,
>>
>> the right one is angled down a lot more than the left one. Left one
>> (which has lots of clearance) is about 25 deg. rel. to bottom of
>> fuselage, right one is about 40 deg. Is this normal?
>>
>> The end of the right pipe sticks down about 2.5" below the ram scoop
>> while the left one stick down about 1.5". My recollection is that RV's
>> usually have some assymmetry in this respect.
>> Or, have I just got it adjusted wrong?
>> -
>> Tom Sargent
>>
>>
>=======================
>Tom:
>
>You are correct. I have the same problem ... right one is lower than the
>left. I also have been fighting CO in the cabin. I tried what I believe is very
>thing ... Until I came up with a solution. I added extensions with a
>downward bend and a baloney cut to the exhaust. This reduced the CO to ZERO.
>
>But, the right side is still lower than the left.
>
>Barry
>"Chop'd Liver"
>
>
Barry:
Interesting. Which way was the cut? Was it horizontal or vertical?
--
Tom S.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: vetterman exhaust, RV-6A with 0-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 6/25/06 7:21:12 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
sarg314@comcast.net writes:
> Barry:
> Interesting. Which way was the cut? Was it horizontal or vertical?
> --
> Tom S.
==========================
Tom:
HORIZONTAL and parallel to the ground in a S&L flight ... I'm an RV-6 ;-)
I really had to get the exhaust down and into the air-stream. It was being
sucked in at points I could not find. I did seal off the flap area, wing root,
and added a scupper in the tail. NO great improvement. But when I added the
extensions .. WOW Z E R O CO!
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 12
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| Subject: | RV 10 main intersection fairins ready |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob Snedaker <imfairings@cox.net>
They can be ordered on my web site: www.fairinga-etc.com.
Costs are:
Upper Main Intersection Fairings (one set) $120
Lower Main Intersection Fairings (one set) $130
Please shipping/handling and sales tax where applicable.
Thanks for your support.
--
Sincerely,
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
PO Box 5488
Goodyear, AZ 85338
623 203 9795
--
Sincerely,
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
PO Box 5488
Goodyear, AZ 85338
623 203 9795
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: "putting back" the vinyl |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi,Tom,
I used 2" wide masking tape on mine. I drew a grid of one inch squares on
the tape over the whole panel that was quite helpful during layout and
cutting process.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 12:31 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I'll be cutting/drilling my panel soon. It doesn't have any protective
> vinyl on it (if indeed it ever did). Is there any way I can protect the
> surface from scratching while I work on it? I need to be able to draw on
> what ever I cover it with, although I guess I could draw on the bare
> aluminum first and then coat it with something transparent.
>
> Any ideas?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | "putting back" the vinyl |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
I've used shelfliner "contact paper" from wally world that has "post it"
type adhesive to protect any painted surfaces I work near. Its easily
removed and has a descent thickness to prevent booboo's.
Steve
capsteve@adelphia.net
40205
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Jewell
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 9:56 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi,Tom,
I used 2" wide masking tape on mine. I drew a grid of one inch squares on
the tape over the whole panel that was quite helpful during layout and
cutting process.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2006 12:31 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I'll be cutting/drilling my panel soon. It doesn't have any protective
> vinyl on it (if indeed it ever did). Is there any way I can protect the
> surface from scratching while I work on it? I need to be able to draw on
> what ever I cover it with, although I guess I could draw on the bare
> aluminum first and then coat it with something transparent.
>
> Any ideas?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
--
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Well,
I haven't had much chance to speak to this much due to an unusual bunch of
stuff to do, but I've been flying the Trio altitude hold version 2 for a
while now, fine tuning a few of the safety features of it.
Wow, what a neat upgrade to an already awesome system. Having vertical speed
management is way cool. Just tick the encoder and rotate to the VS you want
and pop the go button and the VSI locks onto that number.
I never realized how quickly I get bored with 300 fpm and add power for a
rocket rise. But this deal makes it really easy to "manage" a proper climb
to cruise or an approach.
I'm not really an IFR person, and certainly don't recommend hard IFR with a
non-certified unit, but this thing stays pegged to the approach plate using
its numbers.
There are some neat safety features like min and max airspeed settings one
can capture. When these are hit the unit will give up on sustained altitude
and prevent the airspeed exceptions. The low speed thought is if one does
pass out and fly until no fuel then the unit will start into a slow speed
descent rather than allowing a stall.
Their units also have a number of places where they can be customized in
various settings like differing gains for the different modes of operation,
and dead band, and a host of others. This is the same philosphy used in
their autopilot which can be equally fine tuned if one so desires.
That said, while I played with all of these, a lot, just to see what did
what and how we could get it to operate the smoothest between descents,
climbs, holds, and turns, in both minimum and maximum conditions the truth
is our final results were pretty close to their defaults so most will not
have to tweek it much, if any.
Under most conditions it holds within 20 ft. At worst case I set up a 2000
fpm blast downhill and popped the hold on and it recovers within 40 to 60 ft
and gently returns the plane to the "set" altitude.
The encoder can still be adjusted in hold to compensate for pressure
changes. The unit does require that Pitot and Static are run to it for the
safety features of it to be functional, and they must be functional or it
won't let you play spin the bottle.
Installation is a breeze in most RVs as they have some neat kits for this,
although one can't avoid the trip back into the tail cone section for half a
day or so...
The other neat feature is it will drive the pitch trim motor to keep the
trim matched to the current airspeed. This is really cool when one goes to
disengage after slowing down quite a bit for a final approach. Of course
this only works for those with electric trim. As well it can be used in
conjunction with your existing trim operations with the use of a relay.
All in all this is a great product in its first form, and it is an even
better product in this next enhanced version.
(I would also add that the two versions are more than just software
different, they need some extra components in the main brain box as well as
a few software tweeks to the others.)
And to the list police I do not work for the three pros from Dover, nor do I
make a dime off of those tightwads... (OK, I lied, they are prodisiously
generous and are adamant about helping with my fuel costs on some of the
debugging flights we've done. And they do occasionally attept to poison me
with a special blend of the the Navy's finest South Pole, heart popping
black tar java, which doubles as a wonderful fuel tank sealant as well as
eliminating any remote need for those delighful Ex-lax products.)
And finally, to those who wish to debate Trio vs their competitors issues
I'm not up to going there. I personally feel the Trio units have enough more
useful features for an equal cost value that it's a no brainer for me.
W
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: RV 10 main intersection fairins ready |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Bob, you had a typo below for your website. I'm
assuming you wanted them to go to www.fairings-etc.com
Paul Besing
--- Bob Snedaker <imfairings@cox.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bob Snedaker
> <imfairings@cox.net>
>
> They can be ordered on my web site:
> www.fairinga-etc.com.
>
> Costs are:
> Upper Main Intersection Fairings (one set) $120
> Lower Main Intersection Fairings (one set) $130
>
> Please shipping/handling and sales tax where
> applicable.
>
> Thanks for your support.
> --
> Sincerely,
> Bob Snedaker
> Fairings-Etc
> PO Box 5488
> Goodyear, AZ 85338
> 623 203 9795
>
> --
> Sincerely,
> Bob Snedaker
> Fairings-Etc
> PO Box 5488
> Goodyear, AZ 85338
> 623 203 9795
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
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