Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:10 AM - fast RV-8, was glue (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
2. 05:37 AM - RV8 Canopy Glue - Thanks (rveighta)
3. 05:56 AM - Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol (Richard Seiders)
4. 06:15 AM - AKZO primer question (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
5. 06:45 AM - Bleeding the brakes (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
6. 06:45 AM - Constant Speed Prop/Governor For Sale (Dana Overall)
7. 06:50 AM - Re: MOGAS related Crashes, ouch ()
8. 06:58 AM - Re: Heater vent inlet up vs down (Tim Bryan)
9. 07:37 AM - Re: AKZO primer question (Konrad L. Werner)
10. 08:06 AM - Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol (low pass)
11. 08:24 AM - Re: AKZO primer question (RAS)
12. 09:15 AM - Dan's Wx Site Address? (Jerry Grimmonpre)
13. 09:46 AM - Re: Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol (Bob Collins)
14. 10:02 AM - Re: Dan's Wx Site Address? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
15. 10:08 AM - Re: AKZO primer question (Richard Seiders)
16. 10:40 AM - Re: Connecting Blue Mountain EFIS lite to Pictorial Pilot (Andrew Barker)
17. 11:13 AM - Re: Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol (Tedd McHenry)
18. 11:23 AM - Re: non-swiveling tail wheel (Tim Bryan)
19. 11:37 AM - Re: Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol (Konrad L. Werner)
20. 12:10 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 07/09/06, Gobal Warming? (PSPRV6A@aol.com)
21. 12:31 PM - Re: non-swiveling tail wheel (Paul Besing)
22. 12:45 PM - Re: Constant Speed Prop/Governor For Sale (Dana Overall)
23. 12:54 PM - O320 Constant Speed Prop for Sale (Dana Overall)
24. 02:39 PM - Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol (cecilth@juno.com)
25. 03:17 PM - Re: Connecting Blue Mountain EFIS lite to Pictorial (JEllis9847@aol.com)
26. 03:53 PM - Re: Connecting Blue Mountain EFIS lite to Pictorial Pilot (Jim Ellis)
27. 05:01 PM - Test (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
28. 06:29 PM - Cowling (Neal George)
29. 06:29 PM - Re: AKZO primer question (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
30. 07:07 PM - Jacking up an RV (Emrath)
31. 07:19 PM - Wanted Garmin 296 GPS (Jerry Springer)
32. 07:36 PM - Re: Jacking up an RV (Dan Checkoway)
33. 07:54 PM - Re: Wanted Garmin 296 GPS (Paul Besing)
34. 07:58 PM - Re: AKZO primer question (Tim Olson)
35. 08:44 PM - Re: Jacking up an RV (Vanremog@aol.com)
36. 08:48 PM - Re: Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 07/09/06, Gobal Warming? (Vanremog@aol.com)
37. 08:53 PM - Re: Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol (Vanremog@aol.com)
38. 09:00 PM - Re: Jacking up an RV (Tim Bryan)
39. 09:00 PM - exhaust bolt torque (sarg314)
40. 09:15 PM - Re: exhaust bolt torque (Vanremog@aol.com)
41. 09:32 PM - Re: Wanted Garmin 296 GPS (Jerry Springer)
42. 09:36 PM - Re: Jacking up an RV (Terry Watson)
43. 09:45 PM - New TruTrack Pictorial Pilot Autopilot for Sale (tomvelvick)
44. 09:50 PM - Re: Wanted Garmin 296 GPS (tomvelvick)
45. 09:58 PM - How to fly Constant Speed? (bob rundle)
46. 11:12 PM - Re: Jacking up an RV (Ed Holyoke)
Message 1
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| Subject: | fast RV-8, was glue |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Guess this thread is now officially hijacked.
<Snip>
In reference to your comment "speeds that other RV8s can only dream
about".
This statement has left me with a bit of skepticism.
I am assuming that this statement means that your RV8 is faster than all
of
the others.
<snip>
Don't know why you would assume that. I said "others", not "all"
<snip>
It would seem to me that you would be anxious to demonstrate
your prowess in the Air Venture Race just before Oshkosh.
<snip>
Not. Sorry. Im not a racer. Not getting me to bite. Ill be at the SQI
formation clinic during the race. I have little doubt however than my 8
can hang with others. But I do not call it "the fast one". Not sure why
you are so skeptical. I have published performance numbers. I think they
speak for themselves. Frankly I think my plane is a bit slow given the
hp. But its good enough for me.
http://www2.mstewart.net:8080/super8/index.htm
Enjoy,
Mike
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dick martin
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 10:55 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
Mike,
In reference to your comment "speeds that other RV8s can only dream
abount".
This statement has left me with a bit of skepticism.
I am assuming that this statement means that your RV8 is faster than all
of
the others. It would seem to me that you would be anxious to
demonstrate
your prowess in the Air Venture Race just before Oshkosh. Their is
still
time to squeeze in a potentially class winning participant. Contact
Eric
White immediately and he may be able to squeeze you in the Race.
I , John Huft and Dave Anders would really enjoy some j
"high speed" competition.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, July 07, 2006 9:07 AM
> --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>
> John, you do know he's got an IO-540 in his Super-8, don't you?
>
> Finn
>
> John Huft wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net>
>>
>>
>> Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
>>> <mstewart@iss.net>
>>>
>>> I glued mine. There is no reason why you could not get a bead in
there.
>>> There is so little pressure on the canopy and skirt, the bead is of
>>> little consequence anyway IMHO. 250hours at speeds other RV-8's only
>>> dream about:)
>>>
>>> Best,
>>> Mike
>>> Do not archive
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> Well, Mike, I'm not sure WHO is dreaming...why don't you show for one
of
>> the races and give us a demo?
>>
>> John
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | RV8 Canopy Glue - Thanks |
--> RV-List message posted by: rveighta <rveighta@earthlink.net>
Thanks for all the helpful info provided regarding gluing canopies with Sikflex.
I appreciate the help!! Just wish I hadn't been instrumental in beginning a
controversy.
Walt Shipley
Do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
The RV list has degenerated into a BS Chat Room, but there is still
occasionally an interesting question or comment about RV building/flying.
One just has to be selective and avoid reading the drivel that seems to
amuse many.
Dick RV6A
At 11:18 PM 7/9/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: David Maib <dmaib@mac.com>
>
>Thank you Tom Gummo!!
>
>do not archive
>On Jul 9, 2006, at 3:58 PM, Tom Gummo wrote:
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
>I tried to stay out of this BUT ...
>
>First, I am over 55+ old.
>
>Second, I am a trained Chemist and Computer Scientists. (Subjects
>with my masters degrees)
>I also built a Harmon Rocket. (This is the RV-List)
>I teach chemistry, math and computer science at two local colleges.
>After reading tons of stuff on the subject, I realize that I KNOW
>NOTHING ABOUT IT.
>
>I really think that scientists are in two camps: the first is the
>side that is paying them (Follow the money, just like several people
>have stated) and others are in the side that will get them money. If
>there is NO problem, there is NO money. If you can make it look like
>there is a problem, money will be thrown at you. Why is it in the
>newspapers, No problem - NO NEWS. Problem - BIG NEWS. You only
>really hear from the "Problem" folks.
>
>The other two camps are metal planes verse plastic ones (this is the
>RV-List).
>
>Why do I bring up my age: in the 60's and 70's and maybe even the
>early 80's. All I heard was about global cooling and the coming ice
>age. Now scientists using the SAME DATA are telling us that it is
>global warning. The book the "Population Bomb" stated that we would
>be living shoulder to shoulder by now. Funny, I don't hear anything
>about it anymore. The OZONE hole got bigger and smaller without any
>help from mankind in the past.
>
>What about constant speed props compared to fix pitch (this is the RV- list).
>
>If the earth is getting warmer, could it be the sun is getting
>hotter. Look it up, the sun goes through cycles too and we are in a
>period where it is hotter. If that is the case, could it the sun and
>have nothing to do with mankind that there maybe a world wide
>temperature change.
>
>What about tandem verse side by side seating (this is the RV-List).
>
>What about the fact, that the earth has had several ice ages. That
>means it got cold then it got warn then it got cold and then it got
>warm .... Once again, mankind wasn't able to change the cycle or
>better yet create one.
>
>But Van can and does produce a great series of kits (This is the RV- List).
>
>Take another case, what if it was a good idea to melt all the polar
>ice. Go find a scientist that could find a way to do it. CAN'T BE
>DONE with current technology. So why do you think my car and plane
>will do it?
>
>AOA, required or just a nice toy (This is the RV-List).
>
>IS THERE A PROBLEM?: MAYBE. Should we try to be NICER to the planet:
>YOU BET.
>But anybody who claims to know is full of sh_t.
>Of course, this is just one slightly educated man's opinion, who also
>built a Harmon Rocket (This is the RV-List).
>
>What next:
>Abortion - Pro-Life
>Tax Cuts for the Rich
>War - Antiwar
>that list is too long.
>
>I am too old to be climbing on and off the soapbox. :-) If you
>clearly want to take exception to anything I wrote, PLEASE email
>directly. As most likely, I will be deleting any more emails on this
>subject on the RV-List without reading them.
>
>Can we talk about flying or building RVs again? I even have some fun
>F-4 stories that would be closer to the subject of this mailing list
>than this rubbish. (OF COURSE, THIS IS THE RV-LIST).
>
>
>Tom Gummo
>Apple Valley, CA
>Harmon Rocket-II
>
>do not archive
>
>http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
>
>www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>wiki.matronics.com
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | AKZO primer question |
Listers,
No, I don't want to start a war.
I have 2 one gallon cans (base and curing solution) of Dexter (AKZO) 2 part
epoxy primer that are now 5 years old. The label says the maximum shelf
life is 2 years -- mil spec, etc. They have been kept at room temperature the
whole time (air conditioned in summer, greater than 60 degrees in winter).
The contents look good after stirring the base for about 5 minutes.
I mixed some up and waited 1/2 hour and sprayed it on a piece of
scotch-bright scuffed aluminum. After curing it seems to be very hard and works
like
new as far as I can tell.
Here is the question: what would be the failure mode of using this old
primer? I hate to throw away $130 plus shipping if it is actually OK to use.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 5
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| Subject: | Bleeding the brakes |
Why not just buy a "Mity-Vac" ,which is made for this kind of job ???
Harbor freight tools has one model for about 15 bucks and it has the things
needed to do the job. More expensive models have more equipment and are
re-buildable.
Bob Olds
RV-4
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 6
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| Subject: | Constant Speed Prop/Governor For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
I've got an overhauled constant speed prop and prop governor coming out of
overhaul and ready for sale. The props are 74" 7666 with a C2YR-1BF hub.
$4800.00 takes the constant speed prop AND governor.
If you need the stainless oil line and governor adapter, let me know.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YR-1BF/F7666
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
_________________________________________________________________
FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar get it now!
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: MOGAS related Crashes, ouch |
>From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>C'mon, is this the best you can do? Very informative,
>informative, but wearily long and all of these reports that YOU
>CITED
I made no claim of detailed analysis, I hear you, but....
I'll give you some better examples that spell it out, but...
just because the final determination for the power loss is
unexplained, it does not make me feel good. Fact is several
planes, all using auto fuel, had loss of power along with low
or erratic fuel pressure. Just happens it was also a hot day.
Unexplained loss of power, surging and erratic fuel pressure
on hot days, while using high vapor pressure auto fuel might
mean vapor lock is the cause (I really do think).
VL certainly is a very reasonable explanation since it
matches the symptoms. Just because OJ was not found
guilty does not mean he didn't do it. All the FAA can say
is they can't prove it after the fact, but they out and out
say it below or imply vapor lock often..
I got clever, I searched on Vapor Lock and Automotive
fuel. (69 hits)
Here they say it, out right, RV-9A auto gas and vapor lock
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/GenPDF.asp?id=CHI06LA069&rpt=fa
some factory planes (hey if it can happen to them...)
NAVION, any more questions
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001213X30993&key=1
Rockwell Ag plane, FAA says....
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/GenPDF.asp?id=MKC88LA141&rpt=fi
Piper PA-20, if that does not do it for Ya
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/GenPDF.asp?id=ANC89LA118&rpt=fi
(auto fuel has three times the vapor pressure)
Some more experimentals
Pitts Special, auto fuel and vapor lock in narrative text
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/GenPDF.asp?id=CHI83LA312&rpt=fi
Thorp T-18, Mazda powered, page 1, par 2 and par 4.
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/GenPDF.asp?id=LAX94LA273&rpt=fa
D-51S vapor lock, no mention of auto gas, but could be.
The vapor lock symptoms are interesting and common.
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/GenPDF.asp?id=MIA99FA159&rpt=fi
Velocity - very interesting. engine failure due to auto fuel?
Look at 1st-par on page 1a and 1 st-par on page 1b.
Although an engine failure, the low octane auto gas contributed
to the high compression engines demise. Also before the fatal
flight the builder/pilot had vapor lock problems and installed
additional return line and solenoid. Auto fuel was used.
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/GenPDF.asp?id=FTW98FA165&rpt=fa
C'mon! You can deny deny deny but it's common knowledge.
So when I say keep the fuel cool any way you can you
see what I mean. I guess I am not that dumb after all.
Sometime the NTSB probable cause for vapor lock is
coded as:
-Improper grade of fuel
-fuel, system line blocked
-fuel, system pump blocked
-fluid, fuel starvation
-fuel system overtemperature
Unexplained does not mean it's not a possibility. I am
just suggesting it's possible, suspect, that auto fuel
contributed to the loss of power. You have to know what
the vapor lock signals are. Heat and low atmospheric
pressure is a recipe for VL.
Here is a link that explains vapor lock.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vapour_lock
>From: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: MOGAS related Crashes, ouch
>
>I only read a few of the accident reports, and none that I
>read said that Auto fuel CAUSED the accident.
Great point, absolutly true. However when you read so
many unexplained loss of power, high ambient temps
and auto fuel, than you have to say, hummm.
Obviously dirty rusty cans and not filtering the fuel is a
dumb pilot trick. However when you handle fuel and buy
car gas, the risk of getting bad gas increases, logically.
I did not list several NTSB reports of in-flight engine failures
due to valve damage. Now that could be due to detonation.
We know a prime cause of detonation is low octane. Auto
gas has lower octane.
What scares me the most (and I found a few more since
yesterday) are the takeoff or cruise unexplained loss
of power, typically on hot days. That's scary and suggests
vapor lock.
May be I am not as big an idiot for suggesting that if you
plan on using auto gas in your tightly cowled RV, you do
everything you can to keep the fuel cool: hose insulation,
heat shields, blast tubes and vapor return line. The
mechanical pump is the biggest offender of heat into the
fuel. They make shields and blast tubes for them. Also
ceramic coated (in and out) exhaust is helpful. It might be
a good idea even if you use AVfuel.
If you plan on AVgas than less worries, it's without dispute
AVgas is far more resistant to vapor lock and engine
detonation with higher octane.
That has been my main point. AVgas give you more
margin to detonation and vapor lock. Also quality control
of getting the fuel into the plane direct from an airfield
pump or fuel truck is more higher or more secure. Clearly
from 250 accidents, many involving poor fuel handing
getting fuel into your plane, with gas cans, can cause
contamination.
Last, I don't think you can look at 250 accidents, almost
all involving inflight loss of power, all w/ auto fuel on board,
and not draw a conclusion? hummmmm, there is some
increased risk. What can I learn from these NTSB reports,
STC's, FAA, EAA and AOPA. Just like the TV public
service Ads, You Ought-A Know.
> "Jim Sears" <jmsears@adelphia.net>
> Since George has taken offense to our discussion,
>I think it best to stop this discussion, now.
I have been researching auto fuel for 20 years,
since the late 80's. I just don't favor it for high
compression engines and tightly cowled RV's.
it's just my opinion. Sue me. :-)
Besides reading a lot on the topic, as a CFI, I taught a
group of pilots who owned a C-182 with a STC for auto
fuel years ago. They stopped using it for several reasons.
This is not like I just thought of this yesterday. I have
followed this from the start.
You present one side of the story, and just think
another opinon was needed to this discourse.
Jim has been 20 years flying with auto fuel.
That is a good data point. I respect that.
I recall Jim flys a low compression 150 HP Grumman Cheetah. I am going to submit
the temps in the cowl
of the AA-5 are less than a RV. Also with the lower
temps and lower octane requirement of the 150 HP,
O320, the Grumman makes a good candidate for
auto fuel and better than a high compression RV.
I do not believe Jim is flying his RV yet, so not sure he
can claim auto gas RV experience, but I could be wrong.
Forgive me if I am wrong.
There are planes like the Mooney that suffer vapor lock
with auto fuel and thus can not get a STC. It is not a
stretch of logic to assume that the same issues might
face the RV.
I am NOT anti-Autogas. However I do think it is better
suited for low compression engines (80/86 octane)
and planes with big cowls and exhaust pipes that don't
run inches from the carburetor, fuel lines and gascolator.
THAT IS ALL FOLKS.
Captain AVgas over and out, ha ha ha Cheers, George
---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting
at 1/min.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Heater vent inlet up vs down |
Ralph,
I have seen it done both ways. My outlet faces down, but others in my ar
ea
face up. Heat rises is one way to do it with outlet up, but then with th
e
exit air is a reason to do it the other. Maybe someone else has a good
reason for one or the other. Have fun
Tim
-------Original Message-------
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
Fellow listers,
I'm getting ready to install my heater vents on the firewall.
The way I read it, the instructions say 'inlet down'. This means that wh
en
you're not using the heater, the hot air is being blown up behind the eng
ine
instead of down towards the cowl exit area.
Did I miss something? Does it matter? I would think inlet up.......Did
they instruct it the other way for a reason?
Pictures of how folks have already done it would be appreciated. Also, I
f
you did it one way and didn't like it......why?
Ralph Capen
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: AKZO primer question |
Hi Dan,
Don't have an answer in regards to the failure mode for you, but if it
checks out O.K. on a test piece then I would definitely use it up...
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 7:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: AKZO primer question
Listers,
No, I don't want to start a war.
I have 2 one gallon cans (base and curing solution) of Dexter (AKZO) 2
part epoxy primer that are now 5 years old. The label says the maximum
shelf life is 2 years -- mil spec, etc. They have been kept at room
temperature the whole time (air conditioned in summer, greater than 60
degrees in winter). The contents look good after stirring the base for
about 5 minutes.
I mixed some up and waited 1/2 hour and sprayed it on a piece of
scotch-bright scuffed aluminum. After curing it seems to be very hard
and works like new as far as I can tell.
Here is the question: what would be the failure mode of using this
old primer? I hate to throw away $130 plus shipping if it is actually
OK to use.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
No virus found in this incoming message.
7/7/2006
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol |
--> RV-List message posted by: "low pass" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Yep, there's a lot of emotional rant happening here. And no, it's not a building
issue. But it is guaranteed to affect every one of us who enjoy burning hydrocarbons
in their internal combustion engine in order to fly our little planes.
Algore (making money) is using his misguided supporters to halt the use of CO2
emitting processes (i.e., powered flight). This will happen either through direct
legislation or by indirectly jacking up the price to a point where 95% of
us cannot afford to fly.
This thread isn't just a silly little political or emotional rant. It's about
seeing the end of recreational flying. You support Algore and his type, you have
no place flying powered GA. Well, not without contradicting yourself. Sorry
to be so harsh, but I take real offense at these misguided actions destroying
my freedom to fly.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=46109#46109
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: AKZO primer question |
Hi,
Subject to certain conditions the aircraft factories re-life paint
related materials if they have their own labs.
Do a tape test on your test piece. Use a good quality masking tape(3M)
press it onto the piece with a spreader and then pull off without
doubling over.(yank it off) if the primer stays on the adhesion is still
reasonable good.
The problem of using expired parimer/paint is usually adhesion. Some two
packs sometimes don't harden out.
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: AKZO primer question
Hi Dan,
Don't have an answer in regards to the failure mode for you, but if it
checks out O.K. on a test piece then I would definitely use it up...
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 7:12 AM
Subject: RV-List: AKZO primer question
Listers,
No, I don't want to start a war.
I have 2 one gallon cans (base and curing solution) of Dexter (AKZO)
2 part epoxy primer that are now 5 years old. The label says the
maximum shelf life is 2 years -- mil spec, etc. They have been kept at
room temperature the whole time (air conditioned in summer, greater than
60 degrees in winter). The contents look good after stirring the base
for about 5 minutes.
I mixed some up and waited 1/2 hour and sprayed it on a piece of
scotch-bright scuffed aluminum. After curing it seems to be very hard
and works like new as far as I can tell.
Here is the question: what would be the failure mode of using this
old primer? I hate to throw away $130 plus shipping if it is actually
OK to use.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Date: 7/7/2006
Message 12
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| Subject: | Dan's Wx Site Address? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
Hi Listers ...
Can someone please post Dan Checkoway's weather site address ... I've
misplaced it.
Many thanks,
Jerry Grimmonpre'
jerry@mc.net
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
C'mon folks. Let's remember the #1 rule. Politics and religion.
Let's move on. There'll be no converts and just wasted bandwidth.
(Required RV content) Mating the wings today.
Bob
St. Paul
Definitely
Do Not Archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Dan's Wx Site Address? |
>>>>
Find Dan's most WXcellent site at:
http://www.rvproject.com/wx/
Mark - do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: AKZO primer question |
--- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found ---
A message with no text/plain MIME section was received.
The entire body of the message was removed. Please
resend the email using Plain Text formatting.
HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section
in their client's default configuration. If you're using
HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings
and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text".
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Message 16
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| Subject: | Connecting Blue Mountain EFIS lite to Pictorial Pilot |
The NMEA 0183 should work. Just make sure that the autopilot and EFIS are
both at the same baud rate. The standard baud rate for the NMEA 0183 is
4800, but some systems will output at 9600 as well. Either is fine with the
autopilot.
Andrew Barker
General Manager
TruTrak Flight Systems
"You build it...We fly it!"
PH:479-751-0250 Ext. 222
www.trutrakap.com
_____
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of jellis9847@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2006 9:09 PM
Hi All,
Is there anyone out there who has tried to connect a Blue Mountain EFIS G3
Lite to a Trutrak Pictorial Pilot?
I have the Serial Port B connected to the Pictorial Pilot but the autopilot
doesn't recognize the GPS input.
I suspect that I don't have the correct settings in the EFIS (choices
include GPSS and NMEA 0183 among others). BMA Tech Support says they
haven't tested this autopilot so that can't give me the correct settings.
Anybody out there have any ideas?
Thanks
Jim Ellis
RV9-A, Flying
_____
__________ NOD32 1.1651 (20060708) Information __________
This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
http://www.eset.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> Let's move on. There'll be no converts and just wasted bandwidth.
Bob:
With respect, I couldn't disagree more. I haven't participated in the
discussion at all, but I've found the ideas presented helpful. Sure, sometimes
people express themselves badly. But there's still value in the discussion,
and we shouldn't forget that a lot more people are reading what is said than
are contributing themselves.
As someone pointed out, this is something that will affect all of us who fly,
so it needs to be discussed.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: non-swiveling tail wheel |
OK, you can disregard this question. A call to Van's answered the questi
on.
Kits earlier than about 96/97 came with a non-swivel tail wheel. I just
ordered the conversion for mine. What a drag, replacing parts on mine
before they are even used. I would not have been happy with a non-swivel
however.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
How do you identify the non-swivel by looking at it and what is involved
in
replacing it to a swivel type? My fuse kit was purchased in 1993. I don
't
believe my tailwheel will swivel. Something I only recently discovered w
hen
I installed my chains. I plan to remove them this weekend to find out i
f I
can swivel and am bound up or doesn't swivel. (Then throw the chains awa
y
and install tail lynx system)
Tim RV-6
-------Original Message-------
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
It will go 90, but not much more than that before the
chains bind up. Another words, the chains are the
limiting factor..the will swivel but the chains
inhibit the movement. Will be upgrading to swivel
tailwheel soon!
Paul Besing
--- Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point
> <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> Does anyone know how much travel the old style
> non-swiveling tail wheels
> had? I'm looking for degrees side to side from
> center.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee
> do not archive
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
__________________________________________________
=========================
============
he RV-List Email Forum -
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
=========================
============
sp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
nics.com
=========================
============
sp; - List Contribution Web Site -
sp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
//www.matronics.com/contribution
=========================
============
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol |
X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2527
Re: .....so it needs to be discussed.....
Maybe it does, maybe it doesn't.... / So how about we do that on an
FOSSIL ENERGY FOR AVIATORS type List instead of the Vans
RV-(specific)-List.
All it would take is the originator of a post to make a mention on the
RV-List for everyone interested to feel free to check out his/her news
about fossil fuel issues. . .
There you have it, ...whoever cares can educated themselves on that
subject without clogging the RV-List for days!!!
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: Tedd McHenry
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> Let's move on. There'll be no converts and just wasted bandwidth.
Bob:
With respect, I couldn't disagree more. I haven't participated in the
discussion at all, but I've found the ideas presented helpful. Sure,
sometimes
people express themselves badly. But there's still value in the
discussion,
and we shouldn't forget that a lot more people are reading what is
said than
are contributing themselves.
As someone pointed out, this is something that will affect all of us
who fly,
so it needs to be discussed.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 07/09/06, Gobal Warming? |
We should be thankful at this time for global warming. Precisely where I
am sitting (Minnesota) was buried under two miles of solid ice only a few
thousand years ago, like 7-10 thousand years. The 10,000 lakes we enjoy are the
direct result of those glaciers. Without global warming, nobody could live
here, in northern Europe, or northern Asia. It is wise to be watchful but no
need to be an alarmist.
Paul S. Petersen,
finishing RV6A with son Eric
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: non-swiveling tail wheel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Good move. I have the old tailwheel and it's a real
pain when pushing back into my hangar..have to use a
tow bar. Then, when I'm out somewhere away from the
airport it can be frustrating moving the airplane
around! I'll be upgrading to the Bell Tailwheel
assembly soon.
Paul Besing
--- Tim Bryan <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com> wrote:
> OK, you can disregard this question. A call to
> Van's answered the question.
> Kits earlier than about 96/97 came with a
> non-swivel tail wheel. I just
> ordered the conversion for mine. What a drag,
> replacing parts on mine
> before they are even used. I would not have been
> happy with a non-swivel
> however.
>
> Tim
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
>
> How do you identify the non-swivel by looking at it
> and what is involved in
> replacing it to a swivel type? My fuse kit was
> purchased in 1993. I don't
> believe my tailwheel will swivel. Something I only
> recently discovered when
> I installed my chains. I plan to remove them this
> weekend to find out if I
> can swivel and am bound up or doesn't swivel. (Then
> throw the chains away
> and install tail lynx system)
>
> Tim RV-6
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing
> <pbesing@yahoo.com>
>
> It will go 90, but not much more than that before
> the
> chains bind up. Another words, the chains are the
> limiting factor..the will swivel but the chains
> inhibit the movement. Will be upgrading to swivel
> tailwheel soon!
>
> Paul Besing
>
> --- Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point
> > <jpoint@mindspring.com>
> >
> > Does anyone know how much travel the old style
> > non-swiveling tail wheels
> > had? I'm looking for degrees side to side from
> > center.
> >
> > Jeff Point
> > RV-6
> > Milwaukee
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > browse
> > Subscriptions page,
> > FAQ,
> >
> >
> > Admin.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
> =====================================
> he RV-List Email Forum -
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> =====================================
> sp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> nics.com
> =====================================
> sp; - List Contribution Web Site -
> sp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> //www.matronics.com/contribution
> =====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Constant Speed Prop/Governor For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
The prop and gov are now sold.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
>From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Constant Speed Prop/Governor For Sale
>Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2006 09:45:19 -0400
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>I've got an overhauled constant speed prop and prop governor coming out of
>overhaul and ready for sale. The props are 74" 7666 with a C2YR-1BF hub.
>
>$4800.00 takes the constant speed prop AND governor.
>
>If you need the stainless oil line and governor adapter, let me know.
>
>Dana Overall
>Richmond, KY i39
>RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
>O 360 A1A, C/S C2YR-1BF/F7666
>http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
>do not archive
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>
>
>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | O320 Constant Speed Prop for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
In addition to getting the O360 prop out of the shop, I now own the
following for sale:
Hartzell C2YL-1BF F7663-4 74" Overhauled Constant Speed Prop with paperwork.
I will throw in as a combo an overhauled Prop Governor. This
configuration is for an O320.
Price is $4650.00 plus shipping. (This is about $2000 less than new Van's)
Office number 859 369-7582
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
_________________________________________________________________
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol |
--> RV-List message posted by: cecilth@juno.com
I agree with this post. But another thought came to mind.
Remember all that oil in Alaska? How do you think it got there?
My understanding is that the big animals and tropical stuff made it.
Then all we need is a big object from outer space put an end to the
discussion.
Sure glad Gore isn't president.
Cecil
On Sun, 9 Jul 2006 15:10:14 -0600 "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin@comcast.net>
writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin@comcast.net>
>
> So...are you saying there is no natural fluctuation of the earth's
> climate?
> The Sahara was farm country a few thousand years ago and turned
> desert way
> before the machine age, and even before the human population
> explosion
> occurred. What about the redwood cones found above the arctic
> circle? I
> don't say emissions of various kinds have NO effect, but how can the
> events
> (volcanic and otherwise) that produce far more CO2 than decades of
> man made
> emissions be discounted? I'm curious also how we can presume to
> know the
> average temperature of a point on the earth's surface when records
> have been
> kept for only a hundred years or so. Is it the same kind of science
> that
> can build a complete culture from a couple of knife points and a
> molar?
>
> No offense, but it seems the science that's out there is pretty
> selectively
> chosen by the supporters of the current global warming theory.
> There's lots
> that point the other way, too.
>
> The people pushing the global warming theory aren't exactly
> operating out of
> the back of a VW bus, either. There's plenty of money on both sides
> and
> people on both sides making a living advocating their particular
> position.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 1:00 PM
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
> <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> >
> > Vincent Osburn wrote:
> >> With no disrespect intended to anyone.... man made global warming
> is a
> >> farce I believe.....
> >
> > There were a lot of naysayers in the 60s and 70s about the effects
> > of smoking, too.
> >
> > Just look at the money behind the people that say that global
> > warming is not real. Don't believe what anyone says, check out
> > the facts for yourself. The truth is out there!
> >
> > --
> > Mickey Coggins
> > http://www.rv8.ch/
> > #82007 finishing
> >
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
> >
> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> > http://wiki.matronics.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Connecting Blue Mountain EFIS lite to Pictorial |
Hi Ron,
Thanks for the information. It was very useful.
I spoke with Ross at Blue Mountain Avionics today and he told me that their
NMEA-0183 output "should" work with a Trutrak autopilot but he said that
neither he nor anyone else there had ever heard of anyone that had actually done
so.
My question is a simple one. Has anyone, anywhere ever been able to make a
working connection between any Blue Mountain efis and any Trutrak autopilot?
Strangely neither BMA or Trutrak technical support knows the answer to this
question.
I am truly baffled by the manufactures lack of knowledge about their very
own product's usage in the real world!
Jim Ellis
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Connecting Blue Mountain EFIS lite to Pictorial Pilot |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Ellis" <JEllis9847@aol.com>
Hi Andrew,
First of all let me say how surprised and delighted that you folks at TruTrak monitor
the List and would take the time to respond. It is much appreciated!
I spoke with John in your Tech Support Group today and he said much the same thing...that
it "should" work. But he had never talked to anyone that had actually
been able to make a working serial connection to a Blue Mountain EFIS. I
don't know why but that seems so odd to me.
There must be someone out there that has actually tried, successfully or otherwise,
to connect a Blue Mountain EFIS to a TruTrak autopilot.
Thanks again for your response,
Jim Ellis
RV9-A, Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=46212#46212
Message 27
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|
do not archive
Message 28
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|
Listers -
I'm considering using the Sam James Holy Cowl on my RV-7.
Anybody need a Van's (I)O-360 no-scoop cowl?
Neal E. George
2023 Everglades Drive
Navarre, FL 32566
Home - 850-515-0640
Cell - 850-218-4838
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: AKZO primer question |
Thanks everyone for the replies.
Richard, it is slightly amber colored -- kind of like the color of auto gas.
Does anyone know if it had any color to start with. I don't remember. The
primer sprays and cures OK. It is as hard as nails just like it was 4 or 5
years ago. Its amazing stuff for those of you who haven't used it.
How would I replace the hardener? Is it cheaper than the base? I bought
them both from Aircraft Spruce together.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 7/10/2006 1:12:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
seiders@bellsouth.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders Dan, I spoke with a friend
who operates an auto body and paint shop (he painted my RV6A doing a beautiful
job) and he says primer should be ok but check hardener and if yellowed
replace it.
Dick
At 09:12 AM 7/10/2006, you wrote:
Listers,
No, I don't want to start a war.
I have 2 one gallon cans (base and curing solution) of Dexter (AKZO) 2 part
epoxy primer that are now 5 years old. The label says the maximum shelf
life is 2 years -- mil spec, etc. They have been kept at room temperature the
whole time (air conditioned in summer, greater than 60 degrees in winter).
The contents look good after stirring the base for about 5 minutes.
I mixed some up and waited 1/2 hour and sprayed it on a piece of
scotch-bright scuffed aluminum. After curing it seems to be very hard and works
like
new as far as I can tell.
Here is the question: what would be the failure mode of using this old
primer? I hate to throw away $130 plus shipping if it is actually OK to use.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Jacking up an RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
There has been a lot of information shared over the years on tires and
changing of tires. I'm about to finish installing my gear and would like to
know if the Avery RV Jack Stand is the way to go or not. I would like to
hear from some who can extol the benefits of this method of changing tires
or from anyone that was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the RV
and what they did instead.
Marty in Brentwood
RV-6A
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Wanted Garmin 296 GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
Anyone on the list have a Garmin 296 they want to sell because they are
upgrading to a 396 etc?
do not archive
Jerry
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Jacking up an RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I have the Avery RV Jack Stand and have used it exclusively on my RV-7.
I've changed tires 3 or 4 times, rotating the tires halfway through their
wear. All said and done, I've probably jacked the thing up a dozen times or
more using the jack stand. Works great from my perspective. It's stable
and quick. I'm hard-pressed to think of a down-side other than having to
hollow out the axle nut, which isn't a big deal.
Some have said that you can simply put a hose clamp around the base of the
gear leg at the bend, and then jack up against that. That would sure be the
simplest way to go. But in my case the brake tubing loop would interfere
with doing that.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (972 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 7:04 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
> There has been a lot of information shared over the years on tires and
> changing of tires. I'm about to finish installing my gear and would like
> to
> know if the Avery RV Jack Stand is the way to go or not. I would like to
> hear from some who can extol the benefits of this method of changing tires
> or from anyone that was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the RV
> and what they did instead.
>
> Marty in Brentwood
> RV-6A
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Wanted Garmin 296 GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
There was just a price drop on the 396!!! Darnit!!
I'd go for the newly lowered price on the 396 if you
can sport the extra cake...
Paul Besing
--- Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
> <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
>
> Anyone on the list have a Garmin 296 they want to
> sell because they are
> upgrading to a 396 etc?
>
>
> do not archive
> Jerry
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: AKZO primer question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
That's the right color. If it were me, I'd just use it.
If your quick test shows it's tough, then I'm betting you'll
be just fine, and richer for not spending more cash.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>
> Thanks everyone for the replies.
>
> Richard, it is slightly amber colored -- kind of like the color of auto
> gas. Does anyone know if it had any color to start with. I don't
> remember. The primer sprays and cures OK. It is as hard as nails just
> like it was 4 or 5 years ago. Its amazing stuff for those of you who
> haven't used it.
>
> How would I replace the hardener? Is it cheaper than the base? I
> bought them both from Aircraft Spruce together.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
>
>
> In a message dated 7/10/2006 1:12:44 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> seiders@bellsouth.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders Dan, I spoke with a
> friend who operates an auto body and paint shop (he painted my RV6A
> doing a beautiful job) and he says primer should be ok but check
> hardener and if yellowed replace it.
> Dick
>
> At 09:12 AM 7/10/2006, you wrote:
>> Listers,
>>
>> No, I don't want to start a war.
>>
>> I have 2 one gallon cans (base and curing solution) of Dexter
>> (AKZO) 2 part epoxy primer that are now 5 years old. The label
>> says the maximum shelf life is 2 years -- mil spec, etc. They
>> have been kept at room temperature the whole time (air conditioned
>> in summer, greater than 60 degrees in winter). The contents look
>> good after stirring the base for about 5 minutes.
>>
>> I mixed some up and waited 1/2 hour and sprayed it on a piece of
>> scotch-bright scuffed aluminum. After curing it seems to be very
>> hard and works like new as far as I can tell.
>>
>> Here is the question: what would be the failure mode of using
>> this old primer? I hate to throw away $130 plus shipping if it is
>> actually OK to use.
>>
>> Dan ==================================================== vigator
>> and ist ==================================================Matt
>> =====================================
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up an RV |
In a message dated 7/10/2006 7:10:17 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
emrath@comcast.net writes:
or from anyone that was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the RV
and what they did instead.
===========================================
I just use my old hydraulic floor jack sitting on top of a plastic
step-stool/tool case. It has a cupped end that lifts against my wing tie down
rings.
I use the McMaster-Carr electro-polished stainless steel lifting eyes (P/N
8891T48) for my tie down rings, so they are hell-for-stout pulling or pushing.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 801hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 34 Msgs - 07/09/06, Gobal Warming? |
In a message dated 7/10/2006 12:11:48 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, PSPRV6
A@aol.com writes:
We should be thankful at this time for global warming. Precisely where I
am sitting (Minnesota) was buried under two miles of solid ice only a few
thousand years ago, like 7-10 thousand years. The 10,000 lakes we enjoy are the
direct result of those glaciers. Without global warming, nobody could live
here, in northern Europe, or northern Asia. It is wise to be watchful but no
need to be an alarmist.
================================
That means that Canada should be habitable and suffering from a housing boom
by 2200. Buy now, but do not archive.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 801hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol |
In a message dated 7/10/2006 8:10:08 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv_8pilot@hotmail.com writes:
You support Algore and his type, you have no place flying powered GA. Well,
not without contradicting yourself.
==============================
This must be true, since I personally have never heard or seen any
flip-flopping come at me from the right (he said facetiously).
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 801hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up an RV |
I also have the Avery RV Jack stand and think it is great. I first
purchased the little angle iron gizmo with the U-bolt that bolts around t
he
gear leg. It really is terrible. First it is not a flat spot to jack up
on
and slid off my jack once. Fortunately I still had the wheel on. Second
you would have to remove the gear fairing in order to bolt this around yo
ur
gear leg. The Avery tool is a good one for my money.
Angle iron with U-bolt purchased from Van's for sale cheap.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I have the Avery RV Jack Stand and have used it exclusively on my RV-7.
I've changed tires 3 or 4 times, rotating the tires halfway through their
wear. All said and done, I've probably jacked the thing up a dozen times
or
more using the jack stand. Works great from my perspective. It's stable
and quick. I'm hard-pressed to think of a down-side other than having to
hollow out the axle nut, which isn't a big deal.
Some have said that you can simply put a hose clamp around the base of th
e
gear leg at the bend, and then jack up against that. That would sure be
the
simplest way to go. But in my case the brake tubing loop would interfere
with doing that.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (972 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 7:04 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
> There has been a lot of information shared over the years on tires and
> changing of tires. I'm about to finish installing my gear and would lik
e
> to
> know if the Avery RV Jack Stand is the way to go or not. I would like
to
> hear from some who can extol the benefits of this method of changing ti
res
> or from anyone that was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the
RV
> and what they did instead.
>
> Marty in Brentwood
> RV-6A
>
>
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | exhaust bolt torque |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I was going to torque down the nuts on the exhaust studs on my O-360
when I noticed a contradiction between my torque tables and Larry
Vetterman's instructions. Larry says to torque the nuts to 100- 140
in-lb. That's the torque value for a 5/16-24 bolt, according to my
table. But the exhaust studs in my engine are 5/16-18. The torque
table says to use 80-90 in-lb for the coarse thread 5/16 bolts.
What's the right torque value here?
Is this another situation like the engine case bolts (1/4-20) which are
torqued at 90 - 100 in-lb (about double the value listed in the table)?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: exhaust bolt torque |
In a message dated 7/10/2006 9:02:38 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
sarg314@comcast.net writes:
I noticed a contradiction between my torque tables and Larry
Vetterman's instructions. Larry says to torque the nuts to 100- 140
in-lb. That's the torque value for a 5/16-24 bolt, according to my
table.
========================================
I torqued them to 100-140 in-lb just as Larry indicates. He's the exhaust
expert as far as I'm concerned!
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 801hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wanted Garmin 296 GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
Yes they are a good price but I really don't need the extra features
that I will never use such as WX and XM etc. The 296 is now $1495
and the 396 is $2195. Just thought I would check to see if anyone
is upgrading and wanted to sell their 296.
Jerry
do not archive
Paul Besing wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
>
> There was just a price drop on the 396!!! Darnit!!
> I'd go for the newly lowered price on the 396 if you
> can sport the extra cake...
>
> Paul Besing
>
>
> --- Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer
>><jsflyrv@verizon.net>
>>
>>Anyone on the list have a Garmin 296 they want to
>>sell because they are
>>upgrading to a 396 etc?
>>
>>
>>do not archive
>>Jerry
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>browse
>>Subscriptions page,
>>FAQ,
>>
>>
>>Admin.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Jacking up an RV |
I saw another method advertised somewhere recently. It was a bent pipe with
a T on one end. The T steadied the pipe on the floor. The bent pipe went
over the wheel, and had a loop of cable that would go under the axle. You
jacked up the free end of the bent pipe, lifting the wheel with the cable.
It seemed to me that you could do the same thing with a 2x4 and a husky box
to support one end of the 2x4. Loop a cable under the axle. Jack the free
end of the 2x4.
But I have never tried it so maybe it's a bad idea.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
_____
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Bryan
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 8:57 PM
I also have the Avery RV Jack stand and think it is great. I first
purchased the little angle iron gizmo with the U-bolt that bolts around the
gear leg. It really is terrible. First it is not a flat spot to jack up on
and slid off my jack once. Fortunately I still had the wheel on. Second
you would have to remove the gear fairing in order to bolt this around your
gear leg. The Avery tool is a good one for my money.
Angle iron with U-bolt purchased from Van's for sale cheap.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I have the Avery RV Jack Stand and have used it exclusively on my RV-7.
I've changed tires 3 or 4 times, rotating the tires halfway through their
wear. All said and done, I've probably jacked the thing up a dozen times or
more using the jack stand. Works great from my perspective. It's stable
and quick. I'm hard-pressed to think of a down-side other than having to
hollow out the axle nut, which isn't a big deal.
Some have said that you can simply put a hose clamp around the base of the
gear leg at the bend, and then jack up against that. That would sure be the
simplest way to go. But in my case the brake tubing loop would interfere
with doing that.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (972 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 7:04 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
> There has been a lot of information shared over the years on tires and
> changing of tires. I'm about to finish installing my gear and would like
> to
> know if the Avery RV Jack Stand is the way to go or not. I would like to
> hear from some who can extol the benefits of this method of changing tires
> or from anyone that was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the RV
> and what they did instead.
>
> Marty in Brentwood
> RV-6A
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=====================================
he RV-List Email Forum -
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
=====================================
sp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
nics.com
=====================================
sp; - List Contribution Web Site -
sp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
//www.matronics.com/contribution
=====================================
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | New TruTrack Pictorial Pilot Autopilot for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick@cox.net>
New in box 2 1/4" Pictorial Pilot combination turn coordinator/wing leveler AP. See http://www.trutrakflightsystems.com for specs and pictures.
The Autopilot has the installation hardware for an RV-4 with it.
$1700 includes shipping.
Tom Velvick
email tomvelvick@cox.net
cell 623-261-2096
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=46285#46285
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wanted Garmin 296 GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick@cox.net>
jsflyrv(at)verizon.net wrote:
> Anyone on the list have a Garmin 296 they want to sell because they are
> upgrading to a 396 etc?
>
>
> do not archive
> Jerry
Hi Jerry,
Great to see you at Arlington last week! We just upgraded from a Garmin GPS III
Pilot to the Garmin 296. Cant tell you how much we like it, especially the
terrain features. We used them going to Denver a couple of weeks ago and on the
trip to Arlington. Katie does want to get the 396 though so we can have nexrad
weather/tfrs and metars live in our plane so we may put our 296 up for sale.
Will let you know if we do.
Regards,
Tom Velvick
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=46287#46287
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | How to fly Constant Speed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
Can someone explain how to fly a constant speed prop? I can't seem to find
much info in the wealth of flying books I have here. Any recommended books?
So far I've read:
To reduce power: Set throttle to desired RPM. See prop to MP, RPM will
remain constant.
To increase power: Set prop to fine. Increase throttle/RPM.
Correct? Else?
BobR
_________________________________________________________________
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 46
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| Subject: | Jacking up an RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
I used the hose clamp at the bend method and it worked, more or less,
but one time it fell off the jack and bent the brake caliper bracket for
a $90 replacement part. Ouch. The Avery set up does require the cotter
key to be removed before jacking so it's not a handy way to level the
airplane for getting gyros straight in the panel or getting a remote
compass module level. If you're changing/rotating tires or packing wheel
bearings, the cotter's got to come out anyway so that's not a big deal.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 7:33 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
I have the Avery RV Jack Stand and have used it exclusively on my RV-7.
I've changed tires 3 or 4 times, rotating the tires halfway through
their
wear. All said and done, I've probably jacked the thing up a dozen
times or
more using the jack stand. Works great from my perspective. It's
stable
and quick. I'm hard-pressed to think of a down-side other than having
to
hollow out the axle nut, which isn't a big deal.
Some have said that you can simply put a hose clamp around the base of
the
gear leg at the bend, and then jack up against that. That would sure be
the
simplest way to go. But in my case the brake tubing loop would
interfere
with doing that.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (972 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 7:04 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
> There has been a lot of information shared over the years on tires and
> changing of tires. I'm about to finish installing my gear and would
like
> to
> know if the Avery RV Jack Stand is the way to go or not. I would like
to
> hear from some who can extol the benefits of this method of changing
tires
> or from anyone that was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the
RV
> and what they did instead.
>
> Marty in Brentwood
> RV-6A
>
>
>
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