Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:26 AM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (Mickey Coggins)
2. 03:20 AM - Re: MOGAS related Crashes, ouch ()
3. 05:00 AM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (RV6 Flyer)
4. 05:18 AM - Re: Jacking up an RV (Rick Galati)
5. 05:20 AM - Re: Jacking up an RV (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
6. 07:08 AM - Re: exhaust bolt torque (LarryRobertHelming)
7. 07:11 AM - Re: Jacking up an RV (LarryRobertHelming)
8. 07:19 AM - Re: Jacking up an RV (Bill VonDane)
9. 07:19 AM - Lowrance Air Map (Jeff Dowling)
10. 07:26 AM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (Paul Besing)
11. 07:27 AM - "you're gonna die because you use autogas" (SCOTT SPENCER)
12. 07:53 AM - Re: Re: Jacking up an RV (Jerry Grimmonpre)
13. 08:15 AM - Re:Wanted Garmin 296 GPS (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
14. 08:23 AM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (D.Bristol)
15. 08:30 AM - Re: Re: MOGAS related Crashes, ouch (Tedd McHenry)
16. 08:56 AM - Re: "you're gonna die because you use autogas" (Bob J.)
17. 09:40 AM - Re: Jacking up an RV (John Danielson)
18. 09:50 AM - Re: Jacking up an RV (Rick Galati)
19. 10:18 AM - Re: Re: Jacking up an RV (Tim Olson)
20. 10:44 AM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (oliver h washburn)
21. 11:04 AM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (Sherman Butler)
22. 11:27 AM - Re: Bleeding the brakes (AYRES, JIMMY L)
23. 12:30 PM - Re: Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol (Ed Holyoke)
24. 02:32 PM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (Kevin Horton)
25. 04:48 PM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (Konrad L. Werner)
26. 05:58 PM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (Ed Bundy)
27. 06:11 PM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (Konrad L. Werner)
28. 06:38 PM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (Kevin Horton)
29. 06:47 PM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (Garry)
30. 07:42 PM - Re: How to fly Constant Speed? (Tim Olson)
31. 07:43 PM - Instruments for Sale (Mike Kraus)
32. 08:04 PM - Aerobatics and gyro's (Garrett, Randy L Dr HQ INSCOM)
33. 08:35 PM - Re: Aerobatics and gyro's (Dan Beadle)
34. 09:46 PM - Re: Aerobatics and gyro's (Mitchell Faatz)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: How to fly Constant Speed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
bob rundle wrote:
> Can someone explain how to fly a constant speed prop? I can't seem to
> find much info in the wealth of flying books I have here. Any
> recommended books?
It's not hard, but I think the best would be to spend some
time with an instructor. Perhaps 30 minutes of "ground school"
to explain the techniques, followed by a little bit of time in
the air. You might combine this with a BFR, and kill two birds
with one stone.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: MOGAS related Crashes, ouch |
Here is one that got away:
The Navion corrected
http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001213X30993&key=1
Cheers George RV-4, RV-7
---------------------------------
Message 3
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| Subject: | How to fly Constant Speed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Here is what Lycoming has to say:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/basicPowerSequence.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/powerSettings.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/lowPowerLowRPM.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/oldWivesTales.html
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,892 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
Can someone explain how to fly a constant speed prop? I can't seem to find
much info in the wealth of flying books I have here. Any recommended books?
So far I've read:
To reduce power: Set throttle to desired RPM. See prop to MP, RPM will
remain constant.
To increase power: Set prop to fine. Increase throttle/RPM.
Correct? Else?
BobR
_________________________________________________________________
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://wiki.matronics.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up an RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
emrath(at)comcast.net wrote:
> There has been a lot of information shared over the years on tires and changing
of tires. I'm about to finish installing my gear..........or from anyone that
was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the RV and what they did instead.
Marty in Brentwood
> RV-6A
Marty,
I use the (admittedly pricey) Axle Jack offered by Van's, Spruce and probably others.
It is a very easy, almost bulletproof method to quickly jack up a wheel.
Little more than 48 hours ago I used it to rotate the tires and tubes to even
out the wear pattern and while I was at it, changed the brake pads. Using
this tool made jacking the airplane up a very quick and simple proposition. The
whole thing breaks down into smaller component pieces and is stowed in a heavy
cloth sack to carry along (if desired) on cross country trips. With this jack
no modifications are necessary and emergency field repairs can be made without
augmenting the tool with an appropriately sized bottle jack.
http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/1750/tirejack407go.jpg
Here is the link to Van's that better describes the included accessories package.
http://tinyurl.com/o9bcy
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 151 hours
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=46313#46313
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up an RV |
Marty,
I took a 3/8 inch bolt, cut it off, and rounded the end for a safe fit into
the top of my hydraulic bottle jack. This is a little more secure than
jacking on the tiedown ring.
I set the jack up on a piece of 2x6 lumber on top of 2 cement blocks on the
concrete hangar floor. It would be safer to bolt a plate about 7 inches
square to the bottom of the jack and I plan to do this. Be sure to chock the
other main wheel as well as the nose wheel (if you have one). Dropping the
airplane and punching a hole in the wing skin would of course be a disaster.
I'm not saying this is the best way. I just used what I had available.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: exhaust bolt torque |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I torqued my O360 at 90 in-lbs. They have not come off or loosened in over
100 hours. I checked them at last annual and they were all still tight.
AND No leaks.
Maybe it should be considered to torque at the low end of Vetterman's or the
high end of the published torque table in the manual. I am sure Vetterman
knows his stuff. That is quite a spread between 100 and 140 however.
Usually you find this type spread when a cotter pin needs to be used which
is not the case here. Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I was going to torque down the nuts on the exhaust studs on my O-360 when
> I noticed a contradiction between my torque tables and Larry Vetterman's
> instructions. Larry says to torque the nuts to 100- 140 in-lb. That's
> the torque value for a 5/16-24 bolt, according to my table. But the
> exhaust studs in my engine are 5/16-18. The torque table says to use
> 80-90 in-lb for the coarse thread 5/16 bolts.
> What's the right torque value here?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up an RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
The Avery jack works fine on my RV7. I played around with other jacking
methods and they just did not seem safe after trying them. The Avery jack
has been used twice and I like it. Money well spent. Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
> There has been a lot of information shared over the years on tires and
> changing of tires. I'm about to finish installing my gear and would like
> to
> know if the Avery RV Jack Stand is the way to go or not. I would like to
> hear from some who can extol the benefits of this method of changing tires
> or from anyone that was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the RV
> and what they did instead.
>
> Marty in Brentwood
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up an RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
I made some weldments that screw into the wing tiedown and standard aircraft
jacks for jacking... I will take some photos today and pass them on...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 8:04 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
There has been a lot of information shared over the years on tires and
changing of tires. I'm about to finish installing my gear and would like to
know if the Avery RV Jack Stand is the way to go or not. I would like to
hear from some who can extol the benefits of this method of changing tires
or from anyone that was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the RV
and what they did instead.
Marty in Brentwood
RV-6A
Message 9
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| Subject: | Lowrance Air Map |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
I have to give this company and product some kudos. I recently purchased
the air map before going on a 3600 mile cross country out west. Great
terrain protection. May have saved my life going into Burbank at dusk.
I think I paid $750.
I emailed them about my antenna having something loose inside and rattling,
although functioning fine. They said to send it back and they'll replace
it. I never got around to it. Last week I received a package from them
with a new antenna. Im impressed. I never asked them to send me a new one.
This sure seems to hint their customer service, if needed, is excellent.
Im posting this because I saw the post wanting a Garmin 296. I posted that
same request before purchasing the air map. Glad I went the way that I did.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
295 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 9:16 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
>
> Anyone on the list have a Garmin 296 they want to sell because they are
> upgrading to a 396 etc?
>
>
> do not archive
> Jerry
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: How to fly Constant Speed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
Yes definately get some instruction. You'll learn
procedures and techniques with landing, etc that
you'll want to experience before you fly with a CS
prop. Not a big science, but as mentioned already, a
flight with a CFI on using a CS prop would be very
beneficial.
Paul Besing
--- bob rundle <bobrundle2@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle"
> <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
>
> Can someone explain how to fly a constant speed
> prop? I can't seem to find
> much info in the wealth of flying books I have here.
> Any recommended books?
>
> So far I've read:
> To reduce power: Set throttle to desired RPM. See
> prop to MP, RPM will
> remain constant.
> To increase power: Set prop to fine. Increase
> throttle/RPM.
>
> Correct? Else?
>
> BobR
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
> Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN
> Search!
>
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 11
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| Subject: | "you're gonna die because you use autogas" |
I'll verify this -I was there and had a great time too! And for those of you who
don't know Bob, his RV-6 is beautiful! -He's not some boob running Mogas in
a beater airplane.
There seems to be an attitude especially among "professional" pilots that is
decidedly anti-mogas. It would appear to be an eliteist sort of thing. I've flown
with plenty of "holier than thou types" who distain mogas (but have absolutely
no experience with it).
Think what you want. I see no need to try to convert anyone. If you want to spend
more on fuel because it makes you feel good then do it!
Thanks to the other listers who have pointed out the gaps in both sides of reasoning
-so I don't have to. I will say a hearty "Amen Tom Gummo" though while
I'm at it.
I'm just gonna continue doing what I know works from experience (like Jim) and
a little bit of knowledge too. I know to my satisfaction what heptane, iso-octane,
and tetra-ethyl-lead are along with the number of oxygenates out there.
I understand the relationship of mix ratios of the above on octane rating. I
have a working knowledge of vapor pressure (in part gained from seeing fuel 'boil'
in my clear glass Cessna 140 gascolator). I will continue like Bob to run
a mix of 100LL and autogas where necessary to keep the vapor pressure down and
and stabilize the cheaper autofuel if it's gonna sit in a tank a week or two.
I won't say mogas is 'better' or even 'just as good' -but I will say that it's
better in my C-85 powered Cessna 140 -the original fuel specification being
listed as "73 octane minimum and NO LEAD" (straight from the book), and that
it works satisfactorily in the RV-4 when it's of good quality, kept fresh and
mixed with a little (or a lot of) 100LL at times.
Heck, I've run autogas in the EAA AirVenture Cup race and done quite well, thank
you. Right now the RV's got pure 100LL in it because my favorite gas station
for autogas which used to sell unadulterated gasoline with no alcohol has gone
cheap and I can't find good alcohol-free mogas at the moment.
The stuff renders the inside of the engine(s) just as clean (in the case of exhaust
ports and spark plugs -cleaner) than 100LL. I'm not just saying this -I've
seen it.
Bottom line... If you're gonna use autogas, educate yourself. Keep it fresh.
Keep things clean (pour your fuel through coffee filters if you want). Realize
that it's kind of like the 'Wild West' out there as to fuel quality and vapor
pressure and additives. Buy a Hodgkins Volatility tester. Buy a graduated cylinder
or EAA's new alcohol test kit (a graduated cylinder with instructions).
Have the right attitude and realize the cheap stuff has it's shortcomings and
save about a dollar a gallon at times. If this isn't your speed and you want a
sure thing with no additional fussing around then ante up and buy 100LL. AT ANY
RATE, BE SAFE, FLY AND HAVE FUN!
Lets stop this insanity and realize we're all on the same team for all intents
and purposes!
Scott Spencer
RV-4 (~400hrs with a good amount of that on autogas)
Cessna 140 (~800hrs almost exclusively 87 octane autogas)
I'm an A&P and fly a Gulfstream for a living (but's that's only because I have
to... so I can afford the 'fun planes')
>>>>>Here's one for the "you're gonna die because you use autogas" folks:
Today's OAT: 87 deg F.
This morning filled up with three six-gallon jugs of 87 octane gas (not 93,
not 91, but 87 octane), pulled the airplane up to the gas pump on our
airpark and added 6 gallons of 100LL. 75/25 mix. Flew to a flyin, ate
lunch then did a balloon pop contest and a spot landing contest. Had a
passenger with me. Flew around the flyin for about an hour, in the pattern
mixed in with several spam cans, super cubs, a T-6, PT-19, all in the
pattern at 100-120mph (didn't win the spot landing contest but got two out
of three balloons for a tie for first place). After we did that climbed
out
to 6500 and headed home, and had some fun with some cumulus. Hottest CHT
hit 400 on the climb to 6500. After leveling off it settled back down to
365. Oil temp was 202. In other words, some ideal conditions for vapor
lock.
I'm here to tell you that I survived yet another hot but fun day using
autogas, with not even a hint vapor lock and no signs of overheating.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up an RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
Do Not Archive
Rick ...
This looks like the way to go and thanks for sharing.
What is the part that goes under the axle to lift? Is it an open "J" hook
threaded at the top end? If so, what diameter is the threaded part of the
hook?
Many thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre'
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
> I use the (admittedly pricey) Axle Jack offered by Van's, Spruce and
> probably others. It is a very easy, almost bulletproof method to quickly
> jack up a wheel. Little more than 48 hours ago I used it to rotate the
> tires and tubes to even out the wear pattern and while I was at it,
> changed the brake pads. Using this tool made jacking the airplane up a
> very quick and simple proposition. The whole thing breaks down into
> smaller component pieces and is stowed in a heavy cloth sack to carry
> along (if desired) on cross country trips. With this jack no modifications
> are necessary and emergency field repairs can be made without augmenting
> the tool with an appropriately sized bottle jack.
> http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/1750/tirejack407go.jpg
> Here is the link to Van's that better describes the included accessories
> package.
> http://tinyurl.com/o9bcy
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 151 hours
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re:Wanted Garmin 296 GPS |
Jerry,
I got my 296 on eBay from a guy who was doing just that... I see they've
sold 13 in the last 2 weeks, range about $1100-1300. Also might check Pac Coast
Avionics, they might get you one used...
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 7/11/2006 12:04:41 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list@matronics.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
Anyone on the list have a Garmin 296 they want to sell because they are
upgrading to a 396 etc?
do not archive
Jerry
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: How to fly Constant Speed? |
It's interesting to note that Lycoming (in the second link) says that
running oversquare is no problem but in the first link they say:
<>TO INCREASE POWER - first, enrich mixture, increase RPM, then follow
with throttle.
<>TO DECREASE POWER - first, reduce throttle, reduce RPM, and then
adjust mixture.
<>
Be nice if they got their stories straight.
Dave
<><>
do not archive
RV6 Flyer wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
>
>
> Here is what Lycoming has to say:
> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/basicPowerSequence.html
>
>
> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/powerSettings.html
>
>
> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/lowPowerLowRPM.html
>
>
> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/oldWivesTales.html
>
>
> Gary A. Sobek
> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
> 1,892 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
>
> Can someone explain how to fly a constant speed prop? I can't seem to
> find much info in the wealth of flying books I have here. Any
> recommended books?
>
> So far I've read:
> To reduce power: Set throttle to desired RPM. See prop to MP, RPM
> will remain constant.
> To increase power: Set prop to fine. Increase throttle/RPM.
>
> Correct? Else?
>
> BobR
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Don't just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
> http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: MOGAS related Crashes, ouch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> Here is one that got away:
>
> The Navion corrected
> http://www.ntsb.gov/ntsb/brief.asp?ev_id 001213X30993&key=1
That aircraft, built in 1947, would be a Navion A. They are particularly
susceptible to vapour lock, and no mogas STC has been issued for them.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: "you're gonna die because you use autogas" |
One thing I should point out is the source for my autogas. I have an
account at the local farm bureau here out in the sticks where I live in
central Indiana, and swipe my card to get biodiesel or unleaded and get a
bill every month. They get their fuel from a small refinery in southern
Indiana that only serves farm bureau distributors. I've talked to people at
the refinery and they assured me that alcohol is not used at all in their
refining processes. On many occasions (especially in the winter months) I
have run 100% 87 octane with no problem but as a precaution I mix 25/75
100LL. Since there is no requirement for their rural customers to use
oxygenates required by the EPA in and around major cities I suspect that is
why I have been successful in using the fuel I do. As a side note, the
source of oil for this particular refinery are small mom-and-pop oil wells
scattered throughout southern Indiana and Illinois. So when people talk
about lessening the dependence on foreign oil, I can honestly say that most
of the fuel we buy is sourced from a domestic supplier of crude oil. I also
drive a 50-mpg diesel car. Needless to say my motivation for running
autogas in my airplane goes beyond just saving a considerable chunk of $$
annually.
On another related note, I have a couple of friends with Rockets who I have
flown cross-country with many times. Every time we go somewhere we all fill
up and at our fuel stops we have a friendly contest to see who burned the
least amount of fuel. And every time, without fail, the Rockets beat the
RV's in least fuel used by a gallon or two. Every time the aircraft which
use the most fuel are the carbureted RV's with O-320's and fixed pitch
props. Its funny how counter intuitive that is.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying, F1 under const.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Jacking up an RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <johnd@wlcwyo.com>
I bought a 2 ft piece of 5/8" (I think that's right) steel rod. This
slips inside the axle. I then use my floor jack used for the car, it
will fit under the steel rod, and jack the plane up. Works a lot like
Avery's jack stand, but you really don't need any more than the steel
rod.
John L. Danielson
RV-6 sold
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Emrath
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 8:04 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
There has been a lot of information shared over the years on tires and
changing of tires. I'm about to finish installing my gear and would like
to
know if the Avery RV Jack Stand is the way to go or not. I would like
to
hear from some who can extol the benefits of this method of changing
tires
or from anyone that was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the
RV
and what they did instead.
Marty in Brentwood
RV-6A
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up an RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Jerry,
You are correct. The working end is an open "J" hook welded to a threaded rod,
I'm guessing about 1/2" diameter or so. The rod is first fed through the crossmember,
and the crank threaded onto it (separated from the crossmember by a teflon
or delrin-like washer). The legs and pads are then attached. It takes less
than one minute to assemble/break down the entire jack into its component
parts. Here is a link to Spruce that better describes it. It is however, unfortunate
their pricing is not very competitive on this particular item.
http://tinyurl.com/m7to7
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 151 hours
[quote="Jerry Grimmonpre'"]Do Not Archive
Rick ...
This looks like the way to go and thanks for sharing.
What is the part that goes under the axle to lift? Is it an open "J" hook
threaded at the top end? If so, what diameter is the threaded part of the
hook?
Many thanks ...
Jerry Grimmonpre'
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=46383#46383
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up an RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
I considered jacking near the gear leg, but none of the solutions
there are all that fantastic in all regards.
I submit that perhaps rather than a small jack, something like
this may be a good solution for many people, although it's
definitely not portable.
See here at the bottom of the page for jackstands I built.
http://www.myrv10.com/tips/generaltips.html
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Rick Galati wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
>
> emrath(at)comcast.net wrote:
>> There has been a lot of information shared over the years on tires and changing
of tires. I'm about to finish installing my gear..........or from anyone that
was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the RV and what they did instead.
Marty in Brentwood
>> RV-6A
> Marty,
>
> I use the (admittedly pricey) Axle Jack offered by Van's, Spruce and probably
others. It is a very easy, almost bulletproof method to quickly jack up a wheel.
Little more than 48 hours ago I used it to rotate the tires and tubes to
even out the wear pattern and while I was at it, changed the brake pads. Using
this tool made jacking the airplane up a very quick and simple proposition.
The whole thing breaks down into smaller component pieces and is stowed in a
heavy cloth sack to carry along (if desired) on cross country trips. With this
jack no modifications are necessary and emergency field repairs can be made without
augmenting the tool with an appropriately sized bottle jack.
> http://img225.imageshack.us/img225/1750/tirejack407go.jpg
> Here is the link to Van's that better describes the included accessories package.
> http://tinyurl.com/o9bcy
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 151 hours
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: How to fly Constant Speed? |
There story is straight. Oversquare is OK, but when you increase power they don't
want you to be running along at say 2100 rpm and then advance the throttle
to full power.
Ollie
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 7/11/2006 11:31:29 AM
It's interesting to note that Lycoming (in the second link) says that running oversquare
is no problem but in the first link they say:
<>TO INCREASE POWER - first, enrich mixture, increase RPM, then follow with throttle.
<>TO DECREASE POWER - first, reduce throttle, reduce RPM, and then adjust mixture.
<>
Be nice if they got their stories straight.
Dave
<><>
do not archive
RV6 Flyer wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Here is what Lycoming has to say:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/basicPowerSequence.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/powerSettings.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/lowPowerLowRPM.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/keyReprints/operation/oldWivesTales.html
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,892 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
Can someone explain how to fly a constant speed prop? I can't seem to find much
info in the wealth of flying books I have here. Any recommended books?
So far I've read:
To reduce power: Set throttle to desired RPM. See prop to MP, RPM will remain
constant.
To increase power: Set prop to fine. Increase throttle/RPM.
Correct? Else?
BobR
_________________________________________________________________
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://wiki.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
http://wiki.matronics.com
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: How to fly Constant Speed? |
I read Flying High Performance Singles and Twins and Flying the Beech Bonanzas.
They provide examples of power settings and the resulting performance of the
aircraft. As an example, from study level flight reducing the MP by 5 inches
will cause the Bonanza to descend at 500 fpm. So will extending the landing
gear.
My Basic rules
1 More MP (Manifold Pressure) means more power
2 Closing throttle and climbing will decrease MP
3 MP will not exceed density altitude pressure without assistance, will equal
it with engine off, and can be a predictor of takeoff performance.
4 More RPM means more power, and use maximum for takeoff.
5 High power and low RPM is bad. Causes unnecessary engine stress.
6 High RPM means high noise and engine wear.
7 Low power and high RPM can act as an aerodynamic brake on descent or approach.
bob rundle <bobrundle2@hotmail.com> wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: "bob
rundle"
Can someone explain how to fly a constant speed prop? I can't seem to find
much info in the wealth of flying books I have here. Any recommended books?
Sherman Butler
RV-7a Wings
Idaho Falls
---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Bleeding the brakes |
This technique sounds intriguing. Can you please describe the process?
Thanks, Jimmy Ayres
RV-7A - building
RV-6A - flying
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Oldsfolks@aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 8:42 AM
Why not just buy a "Mity-Vac" ,which is made for this kind of job ???
Harbor freight tools has one model for about 15 bucks and it has the
things needed to do the job. More expensive models have more equipment
and are re-buildable.
Bob Olds
RV-4
Charleston,Arkansas
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Fossil energy fuel to produce ethanol |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
cecilth@juno.com
Sent: Monday, July 10, 2006 2:29 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: cecilth@juno.com
I agree with this post. But another thought came to mind.
Remember all that oil in Alaska? How do you think it got there?
My understanding is that the big animals and tropical stuff made it.
Then all we need is a big object from outer space put an end to the
discussion.
Sure glad Gore isn't president.
Cecil
> >
This all has nothing to do with building and flying RVs, yet blaming Al
Gore for widespread alarm over well documented scientific evidence that
our civilization is changing the climate of the planet won't change
anything. Sure there have been climate changing events in the past -
meteors and volcanism for instance. Yes there have been naturally
occurring periods of warmer climate in the past as well as ice ages.
Jump starting one of our own still isn't a good idea. Whatever draconian
environmental measures you suspect Gore would have advanced if he were
in office (which wouldn't have been implemented by congress anyway), how
could his administration have done worse than what we've seen from Bush?
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Hermann Gring: "Why, of course, the people don't want war. Why would
some poor slob on a farm want to risk his life in a war when the best
that he can get out of it is to come back to his farm in one piece.
Naturally, the common people don't want war; neither in Russia nor in
England nor in America, nor for that matter in Germany. That is
understood. But, after all, it is the leaders of the country who
determine the policy and it is always a simple matter to drag the people
along, whether it is a democracy or a fascist dictatorship or a
Parliament or a Communist dictatorship."
Gilbert: "There is one difference. In a democracy, the people have some
say in the matter through their elected representatives, and in the
United States only Congress can declare wars."
Gring: "Oh, that is all well and good, but, voice or no voice, the
people can always be brought to the bidding of the leaders. That is
easy. All you have to do is tell them they are being attacked and
denounce the pacifists for lack of patriotism and exposing the country
to danger. It works the same way in any country."
In an interview with Gustave Gilbert in Gring's jail cell during the
Nuremberg War Crimes Trials (18 April 1946)
do not archive
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: How to fly Constant Speed? |
It all depends on the exact engine model. If you look at the power
charts in the Lycoming Operator's Manual, some power charts show a
dashed line which is the maximum allowable manifold pressure for
continuous operations at a given RPM (e.g. O-360-A, IO-360-A, and
IO-360-B series engines). Other engines don't have such a limitation.
For the IO-360-A series engines, Lycoming allows full throttle at
2400 rpm or higher. At 2300 rpm they recommend a max MP of 29 inches
HG. The allowable MP drops with rpm to 25 " HG at 1800 rpm. So,
oversquare operation is OK, within limits. So it still makes sense
to increase the rpm before increasing the MP, and to reduce the MP
before reducing the rpm.
Kevin Horton
On 11 Jul 2006, at 11:22, D.Bristol wrote:
> It's interesting to note that Lycoming (in the second link) says
> that running oversquare is no problem but in the first link they say:
> <>TO INCREASE POWER - first, enrich mixture, increase RPM, then
> follow with throttle.
> <>TO DECREASE POWER - first, reduce throttle, reduce RPM, and then
> adjust mixture.
> <>
> Be nice if they got their stories straight.
>
> Dave
> <><>
> do not archive
>
> RV6 Flyer wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
>>
>>
>> Here is what Lycoming has to say:
>> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/
>> publications/keyReprints/operation/basicPowerSequence.html
>>
>> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/
>> publications/keyReprints/operation/powerSettings.html
>>
>> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/
>> publications/keyReprints/operation/lowPowerLowRPM.html
>>
>> http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/
>> publications/keyReprints/operation/oldWivesTales.html
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary A. Sobek
>> "My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
>> 1,892 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
>> http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
>>
>>
>>
>> ----Original Message Follows----
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle" <bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Can someone explain how to fly a constant speed prop? I can't
>> seem to find much info in the wealth of flying books I have here.
>> Any recommended books?
>>
>> So far I've read:
>> To reduce power: Set throttle to desired RPM. See prop to MP,
>> RPM will remain constant.
>> To increase power: Set prop to fine. Increase throttle/RPM.
>>
>> Correct? Else?
>>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: How to fly Constant Speed? |
On a sidenote on running oversquare:
How does one with a fixed pitch propeller operating from low altitude or
even sea level deal with said oversquare scenario's?
Isn't that pretty much an oversquare situation right from the get-go
when one applies full take off power?
As a Manifold Pressure Gauge is not required in a fixed pitch airplane,
how would one even know how much oversquare they are during the takeoff
roll?
Just wondering...
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Kevin Horton
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 3:09 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to fly Constant Speed?
It all depends on the exact engine model. If you look at the power
charts in the Lycoming Operator's Manual, some power charts show a
dashed line which is the maximum allowable manifold pressure for
continuous operations at a given RPM (e.g. O-360-A, IO-360-A, and
IO-360-B series engines). Other engines don't have such a limitation.
For the IO-360-A series engines, Lycoming allows full throttle at 2400
rpm or higher. At 2300 rpm they recommend a max MP of 29 inches HG.
The allowable MP drops with rpm to 25 " HG at 1800 rpm. So, oversquare
operation is OK, within limits. So it still makes sense to increase the
rpm before increasing the MP, and to reduce the MP before reducing the
rpm.
Kevin Horton
On 11 Jul 2006, at 11:22, D.Bristol wrote:
It's interesting to note that Lycoming (in the second link) says
that running oversquare is no problem but in the first link they say:
<>TO INCREASE POWER - first, enrich mixture, increase RPM, then
follow with throttle.
<>TO DECREASE POWER - first, reduce throttle, reduce RPM, and then
adjust mixture.
<>
Be nice if they got their stories straight.
Dave
<><>
do not archive
RV6 Flyer wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Here is what Lycoming has to say:
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications
/keyReprints/operation/basicPowerSequence.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications
/keyReprints/operation/powerSettings.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications
/keyReprints/operation/lowPowerLowRPM.html
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications
/keyReprints/operation/oldWivesTales.html
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,892 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
--> RV-List message posted by: "bob rundle"
<bobrundle2@hotmail.com>
Can someone explain how to fly a constant speed prop? I can't
seem to find much info in the wealth of flying books I have here. Any
recommended books?
So far I've read:
To reduce power: Set throttle to desired RPM. See prop to MP,
RPM will remain constant.
To increase power: Set prop to fine. Increase throttle/RPM.
Correct? Else?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
No virus found in this incoming message.
7/10/2006
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | How to fly Constant Speed? |
Oversquare operation has been pretty much de-bunked as an old wives tale.
Most POH's show available operations well into oversquare territory. My
fixed-pitch prop RV operates oversquare on pretty much every takeoff. I
have MAP in mine and at sea level I show 31" at 2200 rpm on takeoff. I
usually pull back to 25" on climb (RPM approx 2300) and keep bumping the
power back up to 75% as I climb.
If you don't have MAP, then you don't know you're oversquare and it won't
harm the engine. :-)
Ed Bundy
On a sidenote on running oversquare:
How does one with a fixed pitch propeller operating from low altitude or
even sea level deal with said oversquare scenario's?
Isn't that pretty much an oversquare situation right from the get-go when
one applies full take off power?
As a Manifold Pressure Gauge is not required in a fixed pitch airplane,
how would one even know how much oversquare they are during the takeoff
roll?
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: How to fly Constant Speed? |
You get 31"?
Ram Air?
What engine & what prop do you have?
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Bundy
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 6:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: How to fly Constant Speed?
Oversquare operation has been pretty much de-bunked as an old wives
tale. Most POH's show available operations well into oversquare
territory. My fixed-pitch prop RV operates oversquare on pretty much
every takeoff. I have MAP in mine and at sea level I show 31" at 2200
rpm on takeoff. I usually pull back to 25" on climb (RPM approx 2300)
and keep bumping the power back up to 75% as I climb.
If you don't have MAP, then you don't know you're oversquare and it
won't harm the engine. :-)
Ed Bundy
On a sidenote on running oversquare:
How does one with a fixed pitch propeller operating from low
altitude or even sea level deal with said oversquare scenario's?
Isn't that pretty much an oversquare situation right from the get-go
when one applies full take off power?
As a Manifold Pressure Gauge is not required in a fixed pitch
airplane, how would one even know how much oversquare they are during
the takeoff roll?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
No virus found in this incoming message.
7/10/2006
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: How to fly Constant Speed? |
What does your MP read when the engine is stopped on the ground? 31"
sounds like a MP gauge that is reading high.
Kevin Horton
do not archive
On 11 Jul 2006, at 20:54, Ed Bundy wrote:
> Oversquare operation has been pretty much de-bunked as an old wives
> tale. Most POH's show available operations well into oversquare
> territory. My fixed-pitch prop RV operates oversquare on pretty
> much every takeoff. I have MAP in mine and at sea level I show 31"
> at 2200 rpm on takeoff. I usually pull back to 25" on climb (RPM
> approx 2300) and keep bumping the power back up to 75% as I climb.
>
> If you don't have MAP, then you don't know you're oversquare and it
> won't harm the engine. :-)
>
> Ed Bundy
> On a sidenote on running oversquare:
> How does one with a fixed pitch propeller operating from low
> altitude or even sea level deal with said oversquare scenario's?
> Isn't that pretty much an oversquare situation right from the get-
> go when one applies full take off power?
> As a Manifold Pressure Gauge is not required in a fixed pitch
> airplane, how would one even know how much oversquare they are
> during the takeoff roll?
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: How to fly Constant Speed? |
Amen! I always thought the most MP you could get without super/turbo
charging was 29.92 inches. What gives with the 31 inches?
Garry Stout
RV7A in progress
----- Original Message -----
From: Konrad L. Werner
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to fly Constant Speed?
You get 31"?
Ram Air?
What engine & what prop do you have?
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Bundy
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 6:54 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: How to fly Constant Speed?
Oversquare operation has been pretty much de-bunked as an old wives
tale. Most POH's show available operations well into oversquare
territory. My fixed-pitch prop RV operates oversquare on pretty much
every takeoff. I have MAP in mine and at sea level I show 31" at 2200
rpm on takeoff. I usually pull back to 25" on climb (RPM approx 2300)
and keep bumping the power back up to 75% as I climb.
If you don't have MAP, then you don't know you're oversquare and it
won't harm the engine. :-)
Ed Bundy
On a sidenote on running oversquare:
How does one with a fixed pitch propeller operating from low
altitude or even sea level deal with said oversquare scenario's?
Isn't that pretty much an oversquare situation right from the
get-go when one applies full take off power?
As a Manifold Pressure Gauge is not required in a fixed pitch
airplane, how would one even know how much oversquare they are during
the takeoff roll?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Date: 7/10/2006
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: How to fly Constant Speed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
Well, the most you could read would be the highest ambient
pressure....and in some areas of the world, it gets into
the 30's....
Or, maybe he got this a long time ago:
"the highest barometric pressure ever recorded in the USA was 31.85
inches in Northway, Alaska, in January 1989"
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD - Flying
do not archive
Garry wrote:
> Amen! I always thought the most MP you could get without super/turbo
> charging was 29.92 inches. What gives with the 31 inches?
>
> Garry Stout
> RV7A in progress
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Konrad L. Werner <mailto:klwerner@comcast.net>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2006 9:10 PM
> *Subject:* Re: RV-List: How to fly Constant Speed?
>
> You get 31"?
> Ram Air?
>
> What engine & what prop do you have?
>
> Do not archive
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Ed Bundy <mailto:ebundy@speedyquick.net>
> *To:* rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2006 6:54 PM
> *Subject:* RE: RV-List: How to fly Constant Speed?
>
> Oversquare operation has been pretty much de-bunked as an old
> wives tale. Most POH's show available operations well into
> oversquare territory. My fixed-pitch prop RV operates
> oversquare on pretty much every takeoff. I have MAP in mine and
> at sea level I show 31" at 2200 rpm on takeoff. I usually pull
> back to 25" on climb (RPM approx 2300) and keep bumping the
> power back up to 75% as I climb.
>
> If you don't have MAP, then you don't know you're oversquare and
> it won't harm the engine. :-)
>
> Ed Bundy
>
> On a sidenote on running oversquare:
> How does one with a fixed pitch propeller operating from low
> altitude or even sea level deal with said oversquare
> scenario's?
> Isn't that pretty much an oversquare situation right from
> the get-go when one applies full take off power?
> As a Manifold Pressure Gauge is not required in a fixed
> pitch airplane, how would one even know how much oversquare
> they are during the takeoff roll?
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Date: 7/10/2006
Message 31
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| Subject: | Instruments for Sale |
I am re-doing my RV-4 instrument panel and I am selling my old
instruments. Below is what I have for sale, first come first serve.....
The rest will go to eBay.
Also, if you feel the price is too high, feel free to make an offer,
I'll take the highest offer or I'll eBay them. All instruments were new
168 hours ago, except the Dynon has less than 100 hours and the KX155,
KI209, and the KT76A were used when I purchased them. Please respond
off list to n223rv (at) <mailto:n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
wolflakeairport.net.
Pictures available upon request, but I will most likely only be able to
respond in the evenings.
All prices include FedEx ground shipping.
Item Current Price Asking Price
UMA 1.25" CHT gauge $117.95 $82.00
UMA 1.25" Oil Pressure gauge $118.95 $83.00
UMA 1.25" Ammeter gauge $154.95 $108.00
UMA 1.25" EGT gauge $117.95 $82.00
UMA 1.25" Fuel Pressure gauge $118.95 $83.00
UMA 1.25" Volt Meter gauge $118.95 $83.00
UMA 1.25" Oil Temp gauge $118.95 $83.00
Price for all 7 gauges $866.65 $570.00
King KX155 14V w/ G/S $2,000.00
King KI209 Indicator (VOR/Glideslope Indicator) $750.00
King KT76A 14V Transponder $750.00
Garmin 295, color GPS, all original accy's, extra power cords, manuals,
and original box $625.00
Comant Diplexer CI 1125 (Dual VOR and Dual G/S to one antenna) $125.95
$75.00
Van's Fuel Gauges (2) $70.00 $45.00
NavAid Autopilot $1,300.00 $650.00
Smart Coupler II LE $249.00 $200.00
UMA Tachometer PN TU 3041 and 19-806-11G (odometer showing 196 hours)
$198.75 $110.00
UMA Airspeed PN 16-310-241D $160.00 $125.00
Van's Manifold Pressure Gauge (gauge only, no sender) $73.40 $25.00
Falcon Altimeter PN ALT20INF-3N 0-20K' $196.95 $130.00
Dynon D10 w/ magnetometer,OAT sensor, and flush mount $2,285.00
$1,500.00
Westach Carb Mix and OAT Temp gauge PN 2DA3-8 $83.25 $50.00
EI Fuel Flow Gauge (gauge only, no sender) $518.00 $310.00
P.S. - I'm no scammer, feel free to read my feedback on eBay (user ID
mkraus01)
Also, anyone is welcome to fly into my house and pick up the
instruments, I live at 26W near Jackson, Michigan. Look us up on
AirNav.com or just come visit sometime. I love guests and I have a
flying RV-4 and building an RV-10.
Thanks,
Mike Kraus
Message 32
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| Subject: | Aerobatics and gyro's |
I am planning to begin aerobatics in my RV-6A (and will go through the
proper paperwork process to add aerobatic manuevers to my flight
limitations).
I have a vacuum artificial horizon and directional gyro and an
electrical turn coordinator.
Unfortunately, there is no simple way to quickly remove any of these
instruments.
A potentially clever alternative ...
I could easily adjust the vacuum so that the AH and DG do not run at all
(that is, there's zero air flowing though the instruments) and pull the
circuit breaker so that the turn coordinator is also off.
But, I don't know if this would be better or worse for the gyros to not
be spinning when they have G and centrifical forces applied to them.
Also, would there be a problem for the vacuum pump to be running, but
presumably not having any air flowing through it?
Thanks!
Randy Garrett
RV-6A
675 hours
Message 33
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| Subject: | Aerobatics and gyro's |
I believe that this is a good solution. As long as they are not spinning,
there is little stress on the bearings.
_____
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Garrett, Randy L Dr
HQ INSCOM
Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2006 8:01 PM
I am planning to begin aerobatics in my RV-6A (and will go through the
proper paperwork process to add aerobatic manuevers to my flight
limitations).
I have a vacuum artificial horizon and directional gyro and an electrical
turn coordinator.
Unfortunately, there is no simple way to quickly remove any of these
instruments.
A potentially clever alternative ...
I could easily adjust the vacuum so that the AH and DG do not run at all
(that is, there's zero air flowing though the instruments) and pull the
circuit breaker so that the turn coordinator is also off.
But, I don't know if this would be better or worse for the gyros to not be
spinning when they have G and centrifical forces applied to them. Also,
would there be a problem for the vacuum pump to be running, but presumably
not having any air flowing through it?
Thanks!
Randy Garrett
RV-6A
675 hours
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aerobatics and gyro's |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mitchell Faatz <mitch@skybound.com>
Incorrect. Our EAA chapter just had a presentation from an avionics and
major gyro rebuilding shop. I asked specifically about aerobatics and
gyros, they said "No problem whatsoever, UNLESS you do something silly
like remove the vacuum". They know the internals of gyros intimately,
and said there are stops for the gimbals and it does them no harm at all
to go to the stops for loops, rolls, etc. I know there are many wives
tales and hunches out there, but these guys have serious experience with
gyros.
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit (no, really) Auburn, CA
Dan Beadle wrote:
>
> I believe that this is a good solution. As long as they are not
> spinning, there is little stress on the bearings.
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> *From:* owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Garrett,
> Randy L Dr HQ INSCOM
> *Sent:* Tuesday, July 11, 2006 8:01 PM
> *To:* rv-list-digest@matronics.com
> *Subject:* RV-List: Aerobatics and gyro's
>
>
>
>
>
> I am planning to begin aerobatics in my RV-6A (and will go through the
> proper paperwork process to add aerobatic manuevers to my flight
> limitations).
>
> I have a vacuum artificial horizon and directional gyro and an
> electrical turn coordinator.
>
> Unfortunately, there is no simple way to quickly remove any of these
> instruments.
>
> A potentially clever alternative ...
>
> I could easily adjust the vacuum so that the AH and DG do not run at
> all (that is, there's zero air flowing though the instruments) and
> pull the circuit breaker so that the turn coordinator is also off.
>
> But, I don't know if this would be better or worse for the gyros to
> not be spinning when they have G and centrifical forces applied to
> them. Also, would there be a problem for the vacuum pump to be
> running, but presumably not having any air flowing through it?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Randy Garrett
> RV-6A
> 675 hours
>
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