Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:49 AM - Re: Re:Clothes pins (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
2. 04:39 AM - Re: Re:Clothes pins (Jim Sears)
3. 04:48 AM - Re: Re:Clothes pins (Bob Perkinson)
4. 05:28 AM - Re: Re:Clothes pins (Mark Grieve)
5. 06:34 AM - Re: Jacking up an RV (Bob C.)
6. 08:22 AM - Re: Re:Clothes pins (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
7. 09:10 AM - Re: Re:Clothes pins (John Jessen)
8. 09:10 AM - Re: The TRUTH about MOGAS (very long) (Tim Bryan)
9. 10:27 AM - Re: New F.A.B. alternate air intake (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
10. 12:27 PM - Haze (DAVID REEL)
11. 01:10 PM - Re: Haze (Olen Goodwin)
12. 01:10 PM - Re: Haze (John Jessen)
13. 01:27 PM - Re: Haze (Ed Holyoke)
14. 02:15 PM - Oil cooler (Dave/Deb)
15. 02:48 PM - Re: How to fly CS / Sube challenge (Tracy Crook)
16. 02:50 PM - Re: Oil cooler (RV6 Flyer)
17. 02:57 PM - Re: Oil cooler (Albert Gardner)
18. 03:40 PM - Re: How to fly CS / Sube challenge (Mickey Coggins)
19. 03:40 PM - Re: Oil cooler (Chuck Weyant)
20. 04:28 PM - Re: Oil cooler (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
21. 05:04 PM - Re: non-swiveling tail wheel (Curt Reimer)
22. 06:14 PM - Re: non-swiveling tail wheel (Tim Bryan)
23. 06:36 PM - Re: How to fly CS / Sube challenge (James Freeman)
24. 06:38 PM - Re: non-swiveling tail wheel (Doug Weiler)
25. 06:39 PM - Re: non-swiveling tail wheel (Vincent Osburn)
26. 07:48 PM - Re: non-swiveling tail wheel (Larry Pardue)
27. 08:58 PM - Re: non-swiveling tail wheel (Ed Holyoke)
28. 11:51 PM - Re: non-swiveling tail wheel (Vincent Osburn)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: re:Clothes pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/12/06 10:56:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, mark@macomb.com
writes:
> Dan, I have indeed heard of clipping clothes pins on the fuel line to
> prevent vapor lock. My friends attached the clothes pins and they didn't
> get vapor lock as they drove across Nevada in July. This must be proof
> that it works.
>
> I have never had a problem with vapor lock in my automobile. Diesels
> seem have some sort of immunity to this problem.
> Mark
>
> Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I read the link to vapor lock but didn't read that you can clip
> > clothespins on the fuel line to prevent vapor lock. Have any of you
> > auto fuel fans tried that? This is humor.
> >
> > do not archive please
> >
> > Dan Hopper
> > RV-7A
====================================
Can you guys spell BS?
Closes pins, on a fuel line to prevent vapor lock .... Yea Right! ... What
are your fuel lines made of Paper Straws? I don't care where you purchase your
clothespins from ... Or how strong the tree is that they were made from, or
even how strong the clothespin spring is, I have never ... not even in my
original 1953 Ford Coup are you going to find a fuel line soft enough to have a
clothespin restrict the flow to prevent vapor-lock. Not to even mention how are
you going to OPEN the clothespin big enough to fit around a fuel line.
Come on guys ... A little bit of forethought in your planning before you
launch a BS story. I know, you are not launching a BS Story ... Your heard this
from your Grandmother!
Hey I got a better one ... Want to purchase MAGNETS to fit around the fuel
lines so you can align the molecules? This will give you More HP and increase
your gas mileage 10.65%
Better yet, why not mount your engine on its side, that way you will reduce
the side load of gravity on the pistons and also have gravity helping you pull
the pistons down on the upper ones and increase the speed of the compression
stroke on the lower ones ... That should add more HP, reduce side load ware and
save gas too!
Just remember you heard it here first!
For $29.95 ... Whoops, better make that $59.95 + S/H (Gas inflation you know)
I will send you a full 5 pages of how this works.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: re:Clothes pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <jmsears@adelphia.net>
I'm not going to say that the clothespin theory won't work because it must
have worked for someone, at some point in history. As a teenager, I bought
my first car. It was a '52 Ford Victoria hardtop with a flat head eight
cylinder engine. I had several vapor locks with that car. I tried wrapping
the fuel lines with aluminum foil and tried lots of clothespins. Neither
worked. When my trusty steed quit when I was quite a few miles from home,
I'd had enough. I asked the more experienced and had an electric fuel pump
suggested. I installed one on the frame just ahead of the tank and never
had another vapor lock while I owned the car. :-)
Jim
do not archive
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Perkinson" <bobperk@bellsouth.net>
There is some validly to the old practice of putting clothes pins on fuel
lines. The fact that wood is a good insulator would prevent radiant heat
from reaching the line, of course the clothes pins would have to be placed
side by side the length of the line to do any good. I am sure that no one
would actually pop the cowling and put 25 or 30 close pens on the line a
then go flying. But then again there might be! :>) And for $3.98 I'll send
you 5 blank pages and you can write your own story.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Bob Perkinson
Hendersonville, TN.
RV9 N658RP Reserved
If nothing changes
Nothing changes
-
--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/12/06 10:56:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
mark@macomb.com
writes:
> Dan, I have indeed heard of clipping clothes pins on the fuel line to
> prevent vapor lock. My friends attached the clothes pins and they didn't
> get vapor lock as they drove across Nevada in July. This must be proof
> that it works.
>
> I have never had a problem with vapor lock in my automobile. Diesels
> seem have some sort of immunity to this problem.
> Mark
>
> Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I read the link to vapor lock but didn't read that you can clip
> > clothespins on the fuel line to prevent vapor lock. Have any of you
> > auto fuel fans tried that? This is humor.
> >
> > do not archive please
> >
> > Dan Hopper
> > RV-7A
====================================
Can you guys spell BS?
Closes pins, on a fuel line to prevent vapor lock .... Yea Right! ... What
are your fuel lines made of Paper Straws? I don't care where you purchase
your
clothespins from ... Or how strong the tree is that they were made from, or
even how strong the clothespin spring is, I have never ... not even in my
original 1953 Ford Coup are you going to find a fuel line soft enough to
have a
clothespin restrict the flow to prevent vapor-lock. Not to even mention how
are
you going to OPEN the clothespin big enough to fit around a fuel line.
Come on guys ... A little bit of forethought in your planning before you
launch a BS story. I know, you are not launching a BS Story ... Your heard
this
from your Grandmother!
Hey I got a better one ... Want to purchase MAGNETS to fit around the fuel
lines so you can align the molecules? This will give you More HP and
increase
your gas mileage 10.65%
Better yet, why not mount your engine on its side, that way you will reduce
the side load of gravity on the pistons and also have gravity helping you
pull
the pistons down on the upper ones and increase the speed of the compression
stroke on the lower ones ... That should add more HP, reduce side load ware
and
save gas too!
Just remember you heard it here first!
For $29.95 ... Whoops, better make that $59.95 + S/H (Gas inflation you
know)
I will send you a full 5 pages of how this works.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: re:Clothes pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Barry,
We certainly can spell BS. Dan's post declared "This is humor." so I
played along. I'm trying to remember the explanation on why clothes pins
were supposed to work but it wasn't restricting the fuel flow. It was
something about dissipating the heat. Wood being such a good conductor
of heat you know. A Google search reveals that many people really
believe that this works.
Speaking of fertilizer, I went to one of those 100 MPG seminars a few
years ago. Plenty of bovine waste material being shoveled that day. At
one point we were told about this great new idea of vaporizing the fuel
before it reached the cylinders. Gee, I believe that a couple of bicycle
mechanics from Ohio used this method on an engine back in 1903.
Do not archive any of this.
Mark
FLYaDIVE@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 7/12/06 10:56:02 PM Eastern Daylight Time, mark@macomb.com
> writes:
>
>
>>Dan, I have indeed heard of clipping clothes pins on the fuel line to
>> prevent vapor lock. My friends attached the clothes pins and they didn't
>> get vapor lock as they drove across Nevada in July. This must be proof
>> that it works.
>>
>> I have never had a problem with vapor lock in my automobile. Diesels
>> seem have some sort of immunity to this problem.
>> Mark
>>
>> Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>> >
>> > I read the link to vapor lock but didn't read that you can clip
>> > clothespins on the fuel line to prevent vapor lock. Have any of you
>> > auto fuel fans tried that? This is humor.
>> >
>> > do not archive please
>> >
>> > Dan Hopper
>> > RV-7A
>
> ====================================
> Can you guys spell BS?
>
> Closes pins, on a fuel line to prevent vapor lock .... Yea Right! ... What
> are your fuel lines made of Paper Straws? I don't care where you purchase your
> clothespins from ... Or how strong the tree is that they were made from, or
> even how strong the clothespin spring is, I have never ... not even in my
> original 1953 Ford Coup are you going to find a fuel line soft enough to have
a
> clothespin restrict the flow to prevent vapor-lock. Not to even mention how are
> you going to OPEN the clothespin big enough to fit around a fuel line.
>
> Come on guys ... A little bit of forethought in your planning before you
> launch a BS story. I know, you are not launching a BS Story ... Your heard this
> from your Grandmother!
>
> Hey I got a better one ... Want to purchase MAGNETS to fit around the fuel
> lines so you can align the molecules? This will give you More HP and increase
> your gas mileage 10.65%
>
>
> Better yet, why not mount your engine on its side, that way you will reduce
> the side load of gravity on the pistons and also have gravity helping you pull
> the pistons down on the upper ones and increase the speed of the compression
> stroke on the lower ones ... That should add more HP, reduce side load ware and
> save gas too!
>
> Just remember you heard it here first!
>
> For $29.95 ... Whoops, better make that $59.95 + S/H (Gas inflation you know)
> I will send you a full 5 pages of how this works.
>
> Barry
> "Chop'd Liver"
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Jacking up an RV |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " <flyboy.bob@gmail.com>
I have a local RV friend that has developed a simple but effective
jack for RV 6s and 7s. that works inboard of the gear, thus is out of
your way!
If there is an interest I'll get a picture . . . I don't know if he's
selling or simply sharing the plans but it looks like a better
solution to me? (But I'm a RV-8 guy)
Send me an email directly and I'll put you in touch.
Good luck!
Bob in SE Iowa
On 7/10/06, Emrath <emrath@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
> There has been a lot of information shared over the years on tires and
> changing of tires. I'm about to finish installing my gear and would like to
> know if the Avery RV Jack Stand is the way to go or not. I would like to
> hear from some who can extol the benefits of this method of changing tires
> or from anyone that was not satisfied with this type of jacking up the RV
> and what they did instead.
>
> Marty in Brentwood
> RV-6A
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: re:Clothes pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/13/06 8:30:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time, mark@macomb.com
writes:
> At
> one point we were told about this great new idea of vaporizing the fuel
> before it reached the cylinders. Gee, I believe that a couple of bicycle
> mechanics from Ohio used this method on an engine back in 1903.
======================
Mark:
I did not see the "This is humor" note, I guess I missed it.
The Internet is a super tool, unfortunately it also spreads BS faster than
The Man of Steel can fly.
Have you ever heard the story of skunk essence being used to prolong the
smell of perfume? And that is also the reason why perfume cost more than cologne
(hard to find people to mile a skunk). I started that story way back when I
was about 11 years old.
As for the idea about atomizing the fuel before it reaches the cylinders, I
did not know my breven thought of that ... I thought I did way back in 1966. I
made a plate that fit between the Carb and the intake manifold. It had an
impeller mounted on it. It spun from the suction of the cylinders and being
that it was below the carburetor the idea was droplets of fuel would hit the
impeller and be broken up still further. I never patented the idea, but a few
years later I saw my idea being sold in J.C. Whitney.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
I had a serious response to the original clothespin post, with my scientific
testing nose in the air, when I finally saw the "humor" comment. Almost
made quite a fool of myself, which wouldn't have been hard. After that I
just had get out of the house and to go to the hanger to build some more,
clapping my hands as I left and kissing my clove of garlic I hang round my
neck (just that morning got a fresh batch). Those damned elephants haven't
been around since I started clapping, and I'm not the only one who's making
sure they stay away. Lot of the neighbors clap as well. Clearly it's
working. Not sure about the vampires. Hard to tell.
John Jessen
-10 Tailcone
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of FLYaDIVE@aol.com
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 8:17 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/13/06 8:30:17 AM Eastern Daylight Time, mark@macomb.com
writes:
> At
> one point we were told about this great new idea of vaporizing the
> fuel before it reached the cylinders. Gee, I believe that a couple of
> bicycle mechanics from Ohio used this method on an engine back in 1903.
======================
Mark:
I did not see the "This is humor" note, I guess I missed it.
The Internet is a super tool, unfortunately it also spreads BS faster than
The Man of Steel can fly.
Have you ever heard the story of skunk essence being used to prolong the
smell of perfume? And that is also the reason why perfume cost more than
cologne (hard to find people to mile a skunk). I started that story way
back when I was about 11 years old.
As for the idea about atomizing the fuel before it reaches the cylinders, I
did not know my breven thought of that ... I thought I did way back in 1966.
I made a plate that fit between the Carb and the intake manifold. It had an
impeller mounted on it. It spun from the suction of the cylinders and being
that it was below the carburetor the idea was droplets of fuel would hit the
impeller and be broken up still further. I never patented the idea, but a
few years later I saw my idea being sold in J.C. Whitney.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: The TRUTH about MOGAS (very long) |
"This is a rule of thumb that is meant to compare similarly designed engi
nes
of
different displacements,"
Ted, you hit the nail more on the head with the term "displacements". Da
n
actually said bore size and I am thinking either he meant different or th
e
book was a little skewed based on it's age. Of course bore size, chamber
shape, stroke, piston composition, piston shape, and squish all play an
active role in this. I don't know much about the lycomings, but even wit
h a
relatively high compression ratio, you can achieve pretty good dynamics b
y
optimizing the squish and picking the right piston for the application.
Lycomings may not apply since the availability of products is more limite
d
than typical auto engines.
Tim
ex Auto Machine Shop Owner but did not stay in a Holiday Inn Express last
night
RV-6
-------Original Message-------
--> RV-List message posted by: Tedd McHenry <tedd@vansairforce.org>
> Here is something I didn't know until recently. When the engine's bor
e
is
> increased from 4" to 5", the octane required increases by 10 units.
Dan:
This is a rule of thumb that is meant to compare similarly designed engin
es
of
different displacements, such as the O-320 and O-360. It would be a mist
ake
to
apply it to significantly different engine designs without taking into
consideration other factors. For example, combustion chamber shape is
equally
significant, so that a smaller-bore combustion chamber can require higher
octane than a larger-bore chamber, at the same CR, if its shape is more
conducive to detonation. One can't simply conclude that one engine requi
res
higher octane than another simply because its bore is larger.
Tedd McHenry
Surrey, BC
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: New F.A.B. alternate air intake |
I've done something a little different on my RV-6A. I've tested Van's
original magnet scheme and found that my O-320-D1A engine doesn't open it
under normal take off conditions. A plugged filter does open it OK. (Don't
ask how I know.) The actual implementation of the trap door does not open
into the lower cowl, but rather, into the FAB box it self. There's enough
space between the bottom of the filter assembly and the FAB box shell to
allow for the intake air flow. This way, the carb heat is always available
to either filtered or unfiltered air. I periodically check the
position/operation of the trap door by inserting a stiff wire through a
small hole in the FAB box. And, yes, I epoxied the magnet into position so
it can't get detached.....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
720 Hrs 3'd offender
Building an RV-7A
--> RV-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <
<mailto:Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu> Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
On my RV-6A (following involuntary glider training precipitated by
snow
in the FAB) I built a somewhat complicated filter bypass that takes
the
carb heat air (not hot enough to melt snow) and dumps it in the FAB
AFTER the air filter. See
< " target=otherpages>
<http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/RV6_FAB.jpg>
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/RV6_FAB.jpg>
I like Van's alternate air solutions better than what I built for my
-6A, but Van's wasn't available at the time.
For my RV-10 (IO-540) I'm using a hinged alternate air door on the
bottom of the FAB that opens and closes using the push/pull cable,
rather than the "one way" sliding door arrangement. Photo is at
< ." target=otherpages>
<http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/Alt_air.jpg>
http://home.earthlink.net/~timrv6a/Alt_air.jpg>. I've not flown the -10
yet.
Tim Lewis
N47TD
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
The FAA aviation weather book describes haze as a yellowish or bluish tinged
uniformly distributed contaminant formed from salt or dust particles. A
temperature inversion keeps them from being diluted. Flying in haze
yesterday, I started wondering why it seemed to thicken as I ascended. And
why do ground stations report 6 miles when you can't see 6 miles from one
mile agl? The book also says visibility is reduced toward the sun but I
thought having the sun behind you would lessen visibility because of
reflection from the particles back toward your eye. Any thoughts/info?
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Olen Goodwin" <ogoodwin@comcast.net>
The book is correct. Haze or pretty much any restriction to visibility is
worse when looking into the sun. I've seen 10+ miles reported vis go to
less than a mile in practical terms when looking into the sun. You could
still see 10 miles or so to the sides, but looking into the sun, nada. You
know the runway's up there somewhere, but it's invisible. That's when it's
nice to have some form of nav showing alignment with the runway, be it a
localizer, gps, or whatever.
As for the reported vis, it's taken from the ground, so it won't be the same
as at 5000 agl. Sometimes the vis gets better at higher altitudes,
sometimes it gets lots worse.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 1:21 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
>
> The FAA aviation weather book describes haze as a yellowish or bluish
> tinged
> uniformly distributed contaminant formed from salt or dust particles. A
> temperature inversion keeps them from being diluted. Flying in haze
> yesterday, I started wondering why it seemed to thicken as I ascended.
> And
> why do ground stations report 6 miles when you can't see 6 miles from one
> mile agl? The book also says visibility is reduced toward the sun but I
> thought having the sun behind you would lessen visibility because of
> reflection from the particles back toward your eye. Any thoughts/info?
>
> Dave Reel - RV8A
>
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Jessen" <jjessen@rcn.com>
Only thing I know is that I had a white out due to the sun and inversion and
I was not IFR rated. Thank the good CFI who made me work under the hood all
that time.
John Jessen
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 12:21 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
The FAA aviation weather book describes haze as a yellowish or bluish tinged
uniformly distributed contaminant formed from salt or dust particles. A
temperature inversion keeps them from being diluted. Flying in haze
yesterday, I started wondering why it seemed to thicken as I ascended. And
why do ground stations report 6 miles when you can't see 6 miles from one
mile agl? The book also says visibility is reduced toward the sun but I
thought having the sun behind you would lessen visibility because of
reflection from the particles back toward your eye. Any thoughts/info?
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Here in SoCal haze tends to be a little on the brown side of white. The
visibility that ground stations are supplying is just that - ground
visibility. It may be different in the air. Maybe it's seeming thicker
to you because you're looking down through more of it as you climb. When
you were looking up through it, there was nothing much on which to focus
on the other side of it. It is definitely worse flying into the sun when
it is low in the sky. There's been times near sunset when the visibility
was OK to the sides and rear but just about nil ahead. A good time to
turn on your landing lights and look for another way to go.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DAVID REEL
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 12:21 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
The FAA aviation weather book describes haze as a yellowish or bluish
tinged
uniformly distributed contaminant formed from salt or dust particles. A
temperature inversion keeps them from being diluted. Flying in haze
yesterday, I started wondering why it seemed to thicken as I ascended.
And
why do ground stations report 6 miles when you can't see 6 miles from
one
mile agl? The book also says visibility is reduced toward the sun but I
thought having the sun behind you would lessen visibility because of
reflection from the particles back toward your eye. Any thoughts/info?
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 14
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Where is the best place for the oil cooler on a RV 9A, baffle or
firewall and why.
Dave
9a
Finishing
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: How to fly CS / Sube challenge |
If it were not for the prop maker's limitations, huge torque variations
of the 4 cyl engine and the antique nature of aircraft engine ignition
timing control, the correct way to 'fly a CS prop' would be to leave the
throttle wide open at all times and control power only with rpm via prop
pitch.
Anyone read the latest RVator? This was the method used in the
Eggenfelner Subaru / Lycoming fly-off written up in the latest RVator.
The guys at Van's were so flabbergasted by this that they had to call
Eggenfelner before they would believe it. The prop used on the EGG
engine ( MT) had no red zone rpms when used on a geared engine (or maybe
even Lycs?). The Sube fuel economy was virtually identical to the Lyc
O - 320 but performance lagged a little.
This is one reason why the Rotary powered RV-8's did so poorly in the
economy department. They were forced to use the same prop RPM as the
Lycs as a test condition.
(Caution!! Brag Alert!)
BTW, my naturally aspirated 13B rotary has out performed every EJ-22 or
25 Sube RV installation that I've found reliable test results for. This
includes the turbo and supercharged ones as well. (like the RVator test
subject). 209 mph average in 2003 SUN 100 & 217.5 mph in 2004. I'd
love to do a fly-off against one of the newer EGG H6 engines. Willing
to travel up to tanks-full range to do this. Any of you Sube drivers
out there willing to have a go?
Tracy Crook
13B powered RV-4 1600+ hrs.
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Bundy<mailto:ebundy@speedyquick.net>
To: rv-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2006 9:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV-List: How to fly Constant Speed?
It reads whatever the current pressure setting is. If it's 30.25,
then MP reads 30.25 (at sea level). During takeoff, some slight ram
pressure develops (my cowl to airbox seal is very tight) generating
maybe 30.50". I actually meant to say I get 30", but on occasion when
ambient pressure is high, it comes mighty close to 31".
Ed Bundy
What does your MP read when the engine is stopped on the ground? 31"
sounds like a MP gauge that is reading high.
Kevin Horton
do not archive
On 11 Jul 2006, at 20:54, Ed Bundy wrote:
Oversquare operation has been pretty much de-bunked as an old
wives tale. Most POH's show available operations well into oversquare
territory. My fixed-pitch prop RV operates oversquare on pretty much
every takeoff. I have MAP in mine and at sea level I show 31" at 2200
rpm on takeoff. I usually pull back to 25" on climb (RPM approx 2300)
and keep bumping the power back up to 75% as I climb.
If you don't have MAP, then you don't know you're oversquare and
it won't harm the engine. :-)
Ed Bundy
On a sidenote on running oversquare:
How does one with a fixed pitch propeller operating from low
altitude or even sea level deal with said oversquare scenario's?
Isn't that pretty much an oversquare situation right from the
get-go when one applies full take off power?
As a Manifold Pressure Gauge is not required in a fixed pitch
airplane, how would one even know how much oversquare they are during
the takeoff roll?
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
The RV-9A baffle and firewall is very similar to the RV-6. On my RV-6, I
had redline oil temps during and after flight testing with the oil cooler
mounted on the firewall. I ran about 15 degrees hotter than the other RVs
in cruise with it on the firewall.
I move the oil cooler to the engine mount right behind the #4 cylinder with
a 3" X 5" opening with baffle seal between it and the rear baffle. I now
run the same oil temp to 15 degrees cooler than the other RV.
I had 3 bad experiences with high oil temp and vapor lock with the oil
cooler on the firewall. I do not recommend mounting it there. I had 3"
SCAT tubing going to it from #3 cylinder. Others have had it work but I
could not get it to work on my airplane.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,892 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
Where is the best place for the oil cooler on a RV 9A, baffle or firewall
and why.
Dave
9a
Finishing
Message 17
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I mounted mine on the baffle behind #4. No aircraft temp problems. Forecast
is for something like 116 in the next day or so. Short hops are usually at
1-3000 AGL with cruising temps at 80-90+ with no overheating problems. I
have a 7 row cooler.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: How to fly CS / Sube challenge |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> (Caution!! Brag Alert!)
> BTW, my naturally aspirated 13B rotary has out performed every EJ-22 or
> 25 Sube RV installation that I've found reliable test results for. This
> includes the turbo and supercharged ones as well. (like the RVator test
> subject). 209 mph average in 2003 SUN 100 & 217.5 mph in 2004. I'd
> love to do a fly-off against one of the newer EGG H6 engines. Willing
> to travel up to tanks-full range to do this. Any of you Sube drivers
> out there willing to have a go?
Tracy,
I think you'll get more takers to do a fly-off against your RV8.
Are there even any RV4s with a Subaru? The 4 is going to whomp
all over just about any other RV except the 3.
To the best of my knowledge, there is only one RV8 flying with
a Subaru, and that's Siggi's in Lithuania. I could be wrong.
Mine won't be flying for "a few more months". Once it is, I'm
gonna race anyone I can find! :-)
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 finishing
do not archive
Message 19
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Did mine on the baffle. Did it exactly the way Van's baffle kit said to
do it except I put an extra piece of sheet aluminum as a doubler to
stiffen it up to keep it from flexing and cracking. Cut the air access
hole just as indicated in the plans. Some guys thought I should enlarge
the hole because about 1/3 of the oil cooler fins are covered by the
plans mounting. Turns out Vans is right. Build it by the plans and
you'll be happy. I've had no hight temps at all. In fact, the temps
have never been higher than 200 (in climb) and 180 (cruise).
Chuck Weyant
RV9A 185 hours
O320E3D 150HP
I mounted mine on the baffle behind #4. No aircraft temp problems.
Forecast is for something like 116 in the next day or so. Short hops are
usually at 1-3000 AGL with cruising temps at 80-90+ with no overheating
problems. I have a 7 row cooler.
Albert Gardner
Yuma, AZ
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 7/13/06 5:17:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, davwol@svtv.com
writes:
> Where is the best place for the oil cooler on a RV 9A, baffle or firewall
and
> why.
>
> Dave
> 9a
> Finishing
===========================
Dave:
I fly both an RV-6 and a RV-6A.
The RV-6 has the cooler mounted right at the intake scoop.
Things I have noticed with this mounting are:
~ VERY COOL oil, in the winter I have to cover over half of the cooler to get
the temps up to normal (170- 190 Deg F)
~ In the summer even on hot 85 - and 95 Deg F days the oil temp runs 190- 200
Deg F MAX.
~ In the summer sitting on the taxi way in a line of planes and facing away
from the wind the oil still runs cool.
~ The one negative thing I must report about the intake mounting of the
cooler is the long hose runs and making sure they are secure. I check them about
twice a year just to make sure nothing has moved. NOTHING HAS EVER MOVED.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
The RV-6A has the cooler mounted on the back of the baffling.
Things I have noticed about this mounting are:
~ In the winter I have to cover over half of the cooler to get the temps up
to normal (170- 190 Deg F) - Same as the RV-6.
~ In the summer even on hot 85 - and 95 Deg F days the oil temp runs a bit
hot usually hovering around 195 - 210 Deg F MAX. Now this is on climb-out. It
drops to about 195 - 200 Deg F in cruse ... REMEMBER we are still talking HIGH
OAT (5000 Ft or less).
~ In the summer sitting on the taxi way in a line of planes and facing away
from the wind the oil DOES get warmer than I like and if the plane has a horn I
would be beeping it ... Instead I have the luxury of politely remarking on
how are YOUR oil and CHTs temps doing ... Sure would like to cool the engine
down by flying ;-)
~ The one other negative thing I must report about the baffle mounting of the
cooler is the extra heat stuffed in the rear of the engine ... Right where
the Mag & electronic ignition are and right where the vacuum pump is. I put a
probe there and on the RV-6 I see 135 Deg F.
On the RV-6A I see 170 Deg F.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: non-swiveling tail wheel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mts.net>
I think anyone upgrading to a Van's swivel tailwheel, or indeed anyone who
hasn't flown one, should be aware of it's foibles:
1) It requires regular greasing, and the only way to grease it properly is
to dissassemble it. This isn't hard but I have to do mine every 10 hours or
so.
2) The little internal key that locks/unlocks the tailwheel eventually
develops burrs and then sticks, allowing the tailwheel to stay unlocked. The
solution is to file down the burrs and then slightly chamfer the edges of
the key to prevent new burrs. You may as well do this right away instead of
waiting for it to stick unexpectedly at some distant airport. Since I fixed
mine the first time, it has been fine.
3) The design feature that allows the tailwheel to free swivel after
depressing the rudder pedal about 3/4 down works really well most of the
time. It has a spooky side though. On a couple of occasions I have been
taxiig on a slippery surface with a stiff crosswind, and order to counteract
a gust, I kicked full or nearly full rudder. This caused the tailwheel to
unlock, and without the tailwheel helping to hold it straight anymore, the
airplane immediately weathervaned into the wind and I was suddenly 90
degrees to the runway going 10 mph. Because the runway was snowy and
slippery the brakes were not effective either, so off the runway I went,
completely out of control. Luckily both times I only got stuck.
Perhaps the Bell tailwheel alleviates some or all of these problems. I'm
planning to get one myself, if only for the new/coolness factor.
Curt
RV-6 C-GACR
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: non-swiveling tail wheel |
Yikes Curt,
This doesn't paint a very pretty picture. Every 10 hours? That could be
after every trip. My new one is supposed to be delivered tomorrow for a
weekend install.
Question for all the other tail wheelers. Are any of you using something
other than Van's swivel tailwheel? Why? Are you happy with it?
Thanks
Tim
-------Original Message-------
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mts.net>
I think anyone upgrading to a Van's swivel tailwheel, or indeed anyone wh
o
hasn't flown one, should be aware of it's foibles:
1) It requires regular greasing, and the only way to grease it properly i
s
to dissassemble it. This isn't hard but I have to do mine every 10 hours
or
so.
2) The little internal key that locks/unlocks the tailwheel eventually
develops burrs and then sticks, allowing the tailwheel to stay unlocked.
The
solution is to file down the burrs and then slightly chamfer the edges of
the key to prevent new burrs. You may as well do this right away instead
of
waiting for it to stick unexpectedly at some distant airport. Since I fix
ed
mine the first time, it has been fine.
3) The design feature that allows the tailwheel to free swivel after
depressing the rudder pedal about 3/4 down works really well most of the
time. It has a spooky side though. On a couple of occasions I have been
taxiig on a slippery surface with a stiff crosswind, and order to counter
act
a gust, I kicked full or nearly full rudder. This caused the tailwheel to
unlock, and without the tailwheel helping to hold it straight anymore, th
e
airplane immediately weathervaned into the wind and I was suddenly 90
degrees to the runway going 10 mph. Because the runway was snowy and
slippery the brakes were not effective either, so off the runway I went,
completely out of control. Luckily both times I only got stuck.
Perhaps the Bell tailwheel alleviates some or all of these problems. I'm
planning to get one myself, if only for the new/coolness factor.
Curt
RV-6 C-GACR
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
=========================
==========
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: How to fly CS / Sube challenge |
On Jul 13, 2006, at 5:33 PM, Mickey Coggins wrote:
>> <snip>
>> Willing to travel up to tanks-full range to do this. Any of you
>> Sube drivers out there willing to have a go?
>
> Tracy,
> <snip>
> Mine won't be flying for "a few more months". Once it is, I'm
> gonna race anyone I can find! :-)
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 finishing
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
<snip>
Mickey, I think you'll find you're a little more than tanks-full
range from Tracy....
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: non-swiveling tail wheel |
Gee, folks.. I have 300 hours on my Van=B9s tailwheel and have had no
significant problem. I grease it about every 6 months or so and have
replaced the bearings once and the actual tire once. Other than that, it
works perfect.
Doug Weiler
N722DW, RV-4, 300 hours
On 7/13/06 8:04 PM, "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com> wrote:
> Yikes Curt,
>
> This doesn't paint a very pretty picture. Every 10 hours? That could be
> after every trip. My new one is supposed to be delivered tomorrow for a
> weekend install.
>
> Question for all the other tail wheelers. Are any of you using something
> other than Van's swivel tailwheel? Why? Are you happy with it?
>
> Thanks
> Tim
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Curt Reimer <mailto:cgreimer@mts.net>
> Date: 07/13/06 17:09:00
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: non-swiveling tail wheel
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mts.net>
>
> I think anyone upgrading to a Van's swivel tailwheel, or indeed anyone wh
o
> hasn't flown one, should be aware of it's foibles:
>
> 1) It requires regular greasing, and the only way to grease it properly i
s
> to dissassemble it. This isn't hard but I have to do mine every 10 hours
or
> so.
>
> 2) The little internal key that locks/unlocks the tailwheel eventually
> develops burrs and then sticks, allowing the tailwheel to stay unlocked.
The
> solution is to file down the burrs and then slightly chamfer the edges of
> the key to prevent new burrs. You may as well do this right away instead
of
> waiting for it to stick unexpectedly at some distant airport. Since I fix
ed
> mine the first time, it has been fine.
>
> 3) The design feature that allows the tailwheel to free swivel after
> depressing the rudder pedal about 3/4 down works really well most of the
> time. It has a spooky side though. On a couple of occasions I have been
> taxiig on a slippery surface with a stiff crosswind, and order to counter
act
> a gust, I kicked full or nearly full rudder. This caused the tailwheel to
> unlock, and without the tailwheel helping to hold it straight anymore, th
e
> airplane immediately weathervaned into the wind and I was suddenly 90
> degrees to the runway going 10 mph. Because the runway was snowy and
> slippery the brakes were not effective either, so off the runway I went,
> completely out of control. Luckily both times I only got stuck.
>
> Perhaps the Bell tailwheel alleviates some or all of these problems. I'm
> planning to get one myself, if only for the new/coolness factor.
>
> Curt
> RV-6 C-GACR
>
>
>
>
> =====================================
> he RV-List Email Forum -
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List <mailto:cgreimer@mts.net>
> =====================================
> sp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
> nics.com <mailto:cgreimer@mts.net>
> =====================================
> sp; - List Contribution Web Site -
> sp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> //www.matronics.com/contribution <mailto:cgreimer@mts.net>
> =====================================
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: non-swiveling tail wheel |
Been using the "Homebuilders Special Tailwheel" as depicted in Aircraft Spruce
catalogue but available from the manufacturer as well as other dealers. I
have the single fork 6" model on my 4. It has worked flawlessly for approx. 1000
hours with no unusual maintenance and even perhaps some neglect.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 7/13/2006 6:21:16 PM
Yikes Curt,
This doesn't paint a very pretty picture. Every 10 hours? That could be after
every trip. My new one is supposed to be delivered tomorrow for a weekend install.
Question for all the other tail wheelers. Are any of you using something other
than Van's swivel tailwheel? Why? Are you happy with it?
Thanks
Tim
-------Original Message-------
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mts.net>
I think anyone upgrading to a Van's swivel tailwheel, or indeed anyone who
hasn't flown one, should be aware of it's foibles:
1) It requires regular greasing, and the only way to grease it properly is
to dissassemble it. This isn't hard but I have to do mine every 10 hours or
so.
2) The little internal key that locks/unlocks the tailwheel eventually
develops burrs and then sticks, allowing the tailwheel to stay unlocked. The
solution is to file down the burrs and then slightly chamfer the edges of
the key to prevent new burrs. You may as well do this right away instead of
waiting for it to stick unexpectedly at some distant airport. Since I fixed
mine the first time, it has been fine.
3) The design feature that allows the tailwheel to free swivel after
depressing the rudder pedal about 3/4 down works really well most of the
time. It has a spooky side though. On a couple of occasions I have been
taxiig on a slippery surface with a stiff crosswind, and order to counteract
a gust, I kicked full or nearly full rudder. This caused the tailwheel to
unlock, and without the tailwheel helping to hold it straight anymore, the
airplane immediately weathervaned into the wind and I was suddenly 90
degrees to the runway going 10 mph. Because the runway was snowy and
slippery the brakes were not effective either, so off the runway I went,
completely out of control. Luckily both times I only got stuck.
Perhaps the Bell tailwheel alleviates some or all of these problems. I'm
planning to get one myself, if only for the new/coolness factor.
Curt
RV-6 C-GACR
=====================================
he RV-List Email Forum -
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
=====================================
sp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
nics.com
=====================================
sp; - List Contribution Web Site -
sp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
//www.matronics.com/contribution
=====================================
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: non-swiveling tail wheel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Pardue <n5lp@warpdriveonline.com>
On Jul 13, 2006, at 7:04 PM, Tim Bryan wrote:
> Yikes Curt,
>
> This doesn't paint a very pretty picture. Every 10 hours? That
> could be after every trip. My new one is supposed to be delivered
> tomorrow for a weekend install.
>
> Question for all the other tail wheelers. Are any of you using
> something other than Van's swivel tailwheel? Why? Are you happy
> with it?
>
> Thanks
> Tim
I have the standard Van's full swivel tailwheel. Once or maybe
twice, in 800 hours, it has failed to lock into the steering detent.
I think it was a bit of grit fouling it up, in my case.
Every 75 or 100 hours the steering gets a bit stiff and I have to
regrease it.
I admire the simplicity and economy of the device compared to what
Scotts puts out.
Larry Pardue
Carlsbad, NM
RV-6 N441LP Flying
http://n5lp.net
Message 27
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| Subject: | non-swiveling tail wheel |
So who is the manufacturer?
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Vincent Osburn
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 6:39 PM
Been using the "Homebuilders Special Tailwheel" as depicted in
Aircraft Spruce catalogue but available from the manufacturer as well as
other dealers. I have the single fork 6" model on my 4. It has worked
flawlessly for approx. 1000 hours with no unusual maintenance and even
perhaps some neglect.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 7/13/2006 6:21:16 PM
Yikes Curt,
This doesn't paint a very pretty picture. Every 10 hours? That could
be after every trip. My new one is supposed to be delivered tomorrow
for a weekend install.
Question for all the other tail wheelers. Are any of you using
something other than Van's swivel tailwheel? Why? Are you happy with
it?
Thanks
Tim
-------Original Message-------
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mts.net>
I think anyone upgrading to a Van's swivel tailwheel, or indeed anyone
who
hasn't flown one, should be aware of it's foibles:
1) It requires regular greasing, and the only way to grease it properly
is
to dissassemble it. This isn't hard but I have to do mine every 10 hours
or
so.
2) The little internal key that locks/unlocks the tailwheel eventually
develops burrs and then sticks, allowing the tailwheel to stay unlocked.
The
solution is to file down the burrs and then slightly chamfer the edges
of
the key to prevent new burrs. You may as well do this right away instead
of
waiting for it to stick unexpectedly at some distant airport. Since I
fixed
mine the first time, it has been fine.
3) The design feature that allows the tailwheel to free swivel after
depressing the rudder pedal about 3/4 down works really well most of the
time. It has a spooky side though. On a couple of occasions I have been
taxiig on a slippery surface with a stiff crosswind, and order to
counteract
a gust, I kicked full or nearly full rudder. This caused the tailwheel
to
unlock, and without the tailwheel helping to hold it straight anymore,
the
airplane immediately weathervaned into the wind and I was suddenly 90
degrees to the runway going 10 mph. Because the runway was snowy and
slippery the brakes were not effective either, so off the runway I went,
completely out of control. Luckily both times I only got stuck.
Perhaps the Bell tailwheel alleviates some or all of these problems. I'm
planning to get one myself, if only for the new/coolness factor.
Curt
RV-6 C-GACR
======================================
he RV-List Email Forum -
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
======================================
sp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
nics.com
======================================
sp; - List Contribution Web Site -
sp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
//www.matronics.com/contribution
======================================
Message 28
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| Subject: | non-swiveling tail wheel |
Aviation Products Inc.
114 Bryant St.
Ojai, CA 93023
ph/fax 805-646-6042
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 7/13/2006 9:08:26 PM
So who is the manufacturer?
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2006 6:39 PM
Been using the "Homebuilders Special Tailwheel" as depicted in Aircraft Spruce
catalogue but available from the manufacturer as well as other dealers. I
have the single fork 6" model on my 4. It has worked flawlessly for approx. 1000
hours with no unusual maintenance and even perhaps some neglect.
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
Sent: 7/13/2006 6:21:16 PM
Yikes Curt,
This doesn't paint a very pretty picture. Every 10 hours? That could be after
every trip. My new one is supposed to be delivered tomorrow for a weekend install.
Question for all the other tail wheelers. Are any of you using something other
than Van's swivel tailwheel? Why? Are you happy with it?
Thanks
Tim
-------Original Message-------
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt Reimer" <cgreimer@mts.net>
I think anyone upgrading to a Van's swivel tailwheel, or indeed anyone who
hasn't flown one, should be aware of it's foibles:
1) It requires regular greasing, and the only way to grease it properly is
to dissassemble it. This isn't hard but I have to do mine every 10 hours or
so.
2) The little internal key that locks/unlocks the tailwheel eventually
develops burrs and then sticks, allowing the tailwheel to stay unlocked. The
solution is to file down the burrs and then slightly chamfer the edges of
the key to prevent new burrs. You may as well do this right away instead of
waiting for it to stick unexpectedly at some distant airport. Since I fixed
mine the first time, it has been fine.
3) The design feature that allows the tailwheel to free swivel after
depressing the rudder pedal about 3/4 down works really well most of the
time. It has a spooky side though. On a couple of occasions I have been
taxiig on a slippery surface with a stiff crosswind, and order to counteract
a gust, I kicked full or nearly full rudder. This caused the tailwheel to
unlock, and without the tailwheel helping to hold it straight anymore, the
airplane immediately weathervaned into the wind and I was suddenly 90
degrees to the runway going 10 mph. Because the runway was snowy and
slippery the brakes were not effective either, so off the runway I went,
completely out of control. Luckily both times I only got stuck.
Perhaps the Bell tailwheel alleviates some or all of these problems. I'm
planning to get one myself, if only for the new/coolness factor.
Curt
RV-6 C-GACR
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