Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:48 AM - Re: OAT probe position ()
2. 04:37 AM - Re: Major new product announcement from Vans (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
3. 05:26 AM - Have a Grand Rapids EIS 4000 manual as computer file? (DAVID REEL)
4. 05:36 AM - Re: Major new product announcement from Vans (Larry Mac Donald)
5. 05:44 AM - Re: OAT probe position (Richard Seiders)
6. 05:45 AM - Re: Tire marking material (Richard Seiders)
7. 06:11 AM - Re: Lightspeed Ignition Problem (dick martin)
8. 06:25 AM - Re: OAT probe position (Ron Lee)
9. 06:42 AM - Re: OAT probe position (rveighta)
10. 06:42 AM - Re: OAT probe position (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
11. 06:43 AM - Re: Tire marking material (linn Walters)
12. 07:17 AM - Re: OAT probe position (Kevin Horton)
13. 07:18 AM - Re: Have a Grand Rapids EIS 4000 manual as computer file? (DAVID REEL)
14. 07:22 AM - Re: OAT probe position (Rick Galati)
15. 08:07 AM - Re: OAT probe position (macrafic)
16. 08:15 AM - Re: Lightspeed Ignition Problem (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
17. 08:55 AM - Re: Re: Have a Grand Rapids EIS 4000 manual as computer file? (Bill VonDane)
18. 08:55 AM - Re: OAT probe position (Konrad L. Werner)
19. 09:25 AM - Re: OAT probe position (Richard Seiders)
20. 09:53 AM - Re: best construction web sites (Michael Hudson)
21. 10:42 AM - Marker Beacon Antennas (alan@reichertech.com)
22. 10:49 AM - Re: Marker Beacon Antennas (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
23. 10:49 AM - Re: OAT probe position (Ron Lee)
24. 10:49 AM - Re: Major new product announcement from Vans (Chris W)
25. 11:26 AM - Re: Marker Beacon Antennas (Dan Checkoway)
26. 11:27 AM - Re: OAT probe position (Dan Checkoway)
27. 11:50 AM - Re: Marker Beacon Antennas (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
28. 12:07 PM - Major new product announcement from Vans (JOHN STARN)
29. 12:10 PM - Re: Marker Beacon Antennas (LessDragProd@aol.com)
30. 12:14 PM - Re: Marker Beacon Antennas (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
31. 12:23 PM - Re: OAT probe position (LessDragProd@aol.com)
32. 01:14 PM - Re: Van's announcement leaked (tomvelvick)
33. 01:16 PM - Re: Major new product announcement from Vans (Rob Prior (rv7))
34. 01:33 PM - Re: Re: Van's announcement leaked (Patrick Kelley)
35. 01:59 PM - Re: Re: Van's announcement leaked (RV Builder (Michael Sausen))
36. 02:13 PM - Re: Re: Van's announcement leaked (Joseph Larson)
37. 02:16 PM - Fuel tank vent (Nic)
38. 02:41 PM - Re: Fuel tank vent (Denis Walsh)
39. 02:41 PM - Re: Re: Van's announcement leaked (Michael Hudson)
40. 02:44 PM - Re: Van's announcement leaked (Denis Walsh)
41. 02:44 PM - Re: OAT probe position (Kevin Horton)
42. 02:56 PM - Re: Fuel tank vent (Kevin Horton)
43. 03:25 PM - Re: Fuel tank vent (Dan Checkoway)
44. 03:56 PM - Re: Re: Van's announcement leaked (JOHN STARN)
45. 04:18 PM - Re: Fuel tank vent (Doug Gray)
46. 04:54 PM - Re: Parking Brake Location (Garry)
47. 05:24 PM - Re: Fuel tank vent (RV6 Flyer)
48. 05:24 PM - Re: Major new product announcement from Vans (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
49. 07:22 PM - Garmin @96 needed (Charles Heathco)
50. 07:57 PM - Re: Marker Beacon Antennas (dick martin)
51. 08:12 PM - Re: Fuel tank vent (Mike Holland)
52. 08:21 PM - Re: Re: Parking Brake Location (N901DT)
53. 08:49 PM - Re: Re: Van's announcement leaked (Richard Sipp)
54. 09:04 PM - Re: Re: Van's announcement leaked (Richard Sipp)
55. 09:23 PM - Re: Re: Parking Brake Location (Vanremog@aol.com)
56. 09:23 PM - Re: Marker Beacon Antennas (Paul Besing)
57. 09:39 PM - Re: Re: Parking Brake Location (Jim Jewell)
58. 09:45 PM - Re: Re: Van's announcement leaked (Chuck)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
Jim:
The recommendation to your idea is no. Anything in the
engine compartment is HOT, even the inside of the FAB.
Also you want to be as far away from the engine and prop
air blast as practical like on the tail or outb'd wing.
The entire engine area is a heated zone.
I understand you think it is ahead of the heat. I guess if you
had it on the tip of the spinner, but Anything in the engine
compartment, inside the airbox included is hotter than the
ambient air temp of the air mass you are flying through.
Common locations are lwr surface of wing tip or mid wing
inspection cover or under horz tail in inspection elevator bell
crank access cover. The further away from the engine
in any direction the better.
George M RV-4, RV-7
>posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>
>I am thinking about placing the sensor in the FAB
>prior to the air filter in the snorkel area. My logic says
>it would give me OAT with out the heating of the engine
>temps affecting it. It should give me air temps for my
>EFIS to compute DA. My second choice is the inboard
>inspection panel in the wing. The FAB position would
>require no disconnecting. Am I not seeing something?
>The inboard inspection wing location is fine. Besides
>how often are your wings going on and off after you
>start flying? Do you want to route more wires thru
>the fire wall
---------------------------------
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Major new product announcement from Vans |
In a message dated 7/17/2006 2:03:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
3edcft6@cox.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <3edcft6@cox.net>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> OK Chris,
>
> I came up with 14,387 cubic feet. We're pretty close. Lets compare
> notes.
>
As close as we were I think the reason for the difference is the numbers
we used for the density of air and helium. I just used the first number
I found which I found here...
http://www.elmhurst.edu/~chm/vchembook/imagespdb/123Adensitygas.html#table
Helium = 0.00018 grams/ml or 0.0112 lbs/ft^3
Air = 0.00128 grams/ml or 0.0799 lbs/ft^3
Chris,
You're right. I used the table in my old Sears and Zemansky college physics
book. It is probably correct, but for 0 degrees C.
Helium = 0.1785E-3 gm/cc
Air = 1.2929E-3 gm/cc
A cc is the same as a ml.
That would be a lot of sewing! Hey, you could make it half the size if you
used hydrogen!
Hydrogen = 0.0899 gm/cc
I wonder what they use as the density for hot air.
Dan
But I still have no idea if you could build such a contraption that was
only 1000 lbs with the pilot. The 1000 lbs was just a wild guess. Even
if the gross weight were 500 lbs it still couldn't fit in a typical
small plane hangar.
do not archive
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
Message 3
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| Subject: | Have a Grand Rapids EIS 4000 manual as computer file? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I'd like to make up a small pilot's manual for the EIS 4000. Does anyone
have the full manual in electronic form they could email to me at
dreel@cox.net? Then I wouldn't have to type in all those tables. I've also
asked Grand Rapids but no response to my email yet.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Major new product announcement from Vans |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Mac Donald <lm4@juno.com>
Chris,
1000 cubic feet of Helium will displace 68 lbs.
Larry Mac Donald
Do not achcive
On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 11:43:40 -0500 Chris W <3edcft6@cox.net> writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <3edcft6@cox.net>
>
> sportav8r@aol.com wrote:
>
> > BTW, why are there no homebuilt blimps flying? Can't be that hard
>
> > with modern envelope materials, and a single seater would be way
> cool :-)
>
>
> I think single place homebuilt blimp would be pretty cool too. My
> question is, wouldn't a blimp like that still require a VERY large
> hangar? That may be why no one has kits for one. Surely you would
> have
> to keep it in a hangar. Can anyone calculate how many cubic feet of
>
> helium you would need to float an airship that was say 1000 lbs
> "take
> off" weight? That 1000 lbs is, of course, just a wild guess, I
> have no
> idea how heavy such a contraption would be.
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
> --
> Chris W
> KE5GIX
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
Naca duct works
At 09:22 AM 7/16/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>
>I am about to hook up the outside air temp probe. After consulting the
>web (thank goodness) I am thinking about placing the sensor in the FAB
>prior to the air filter in the snorkel area. My logic says it would give
>me OAT with out the heating of the engine temps affecting it. It should
>give me air temps for my EFIS to compute DA. My second choice is the
>inboard inspection panel in the wing. The FAB position would require no
>disconnecting. Am I not seeing something?
>
>
>Jim Nelson
>RV9-A FWF
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tire marking material |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
Are my tires the only ones that move on the rims rendering the paint marks
useless?
At 09:44 AM 7/16/2006, you wrote:
>Listers,
> The item mentioned below is commonly called a metal marking pen. I
> purchased mine from my local MSC store. They sell them in white, yellow,
> blue and red. I've found that the yellow is the most useful. See
>
>http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF?PMPAGE=2618&PMITEM=07519317&PMCTLG=00
>
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
>>
>>The pen Tom refers to is the one that Pick A Part, Pick Ur Part ETC. use
>>to identify items. Ours came from the local NAPA auto parts store, not
>>plain touch up but more on the line of "Marks a Lot" 'cause it only wears
>>off if ya'll git on your fingers. It has a ball bearing in it to help
>>with mixing. Make sure to depress the wick end when you think it's out of
>>paint. I think the brand name is "Paint Stik". 8*) KABONG Do Not Archive
>>
>>----- Original Message ----- Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2006 5:26 PM
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>>>
>>>I found a touch up pen at a auto parts store. It has yellow paint in
>>>it. It seems to stay on my tires with no problems.
>>>
>>>Tom Gummo
>>>Apple Valley, CA
>>>Harmon Rocket-II
>>>
>>>do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>Email Forum -
>>
>>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>>- NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
>>
>>http://wiki.matronics.com
>>- List Contribution Web Site -
>>-Matt Dralle, List Admin.
>>http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Ignition Problem |
Charlie,
I went to an auto parts store and asked for a standard GM coil.
Apparantly, this is a very common item. You will have to mount them on
the firewall over a piece of non conductive material, because the
contact point is on the bottom of the coil. I used brass strips to
exit the coil and provide a spade connector for the input to the coil.
The output of course is a sparkplug wire.
Dick Martin
Getting ready for the Air Venture race
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Kuss
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, July 16, 2006 8:38 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Lightspeed Ignition Problem
Dick
What GM coils are you referring to? Late model Corvette items?
V-6/V-8 DIS (distributorless Ignition System) coils? Could you supply a
part number or vehicle/engine application?
Charlie Kuss
John,
I experienced similar problems several years ago. I determined
that it was failure from heat soaking of the lightweight coils supplied
by Klaus. He suggested I replace them with General Motors coils which I
did. I have had no problems since, 1000 hours ago. Good Luck.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
From: John Fasching
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, July 15, 2006 7:18 PM
Subject: RV-List: Lightspeed Ignition Problem
I have been using two Lightspeed Engineering Hall-effect
electronic ignition systems on my O-320 160HP engine in my RV6A for some
time now, all trouble free.
BUT, today upon returning from a nearby flyin breakfast the plane
was really "making knots" and was making about 180 TAS and 171 GPS
ground speed at 2,350-RPM, with a fuel burn of 6.7 GPH. So I was happy.
On shutdown, I always "kill" one ignition at a time to insure they
are both working (you can turn one off in flight and only see a 10-RPM
engine drop.) Today with the right side on alone it dropped engine rpm
by 400 to 500 and it ran REALLY rough. I put in new plugs, re-timed the
Hall-effect pickup units and got no improvement. Connections/connectors
all securely attached.
While its easy to suspect the electronic unit I do have to
recognize that the plugs are firing, albiet in strange ways, so the
electronics can't be "dead" - also in flight the roughness was not
present, or at least not noticeable.
I asked Klaus for an opinion but probably won't hear from him due
to upcoming OSH, etc. Any Lightspeed users out there have any
suggestions?
John
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>Naca duct works
Negative on an RV-6A. You get too much heat from the engine area.
Ron Lee
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
--> RV-List message posted by: rveighta <rveighta@earthlink.net>
Jim, I originally had my OAT probe in the NACA duct, left side of the fuselage.
Bad move; the temp was way high. Then I moved it under the left wing and
it works fine.
I installed the probe in the inboard inspection plate by riveting a small block
of 1/8" thick aluminum, which I had drilled and threaded in the center to accept
the Westach probe body. The actual probe sticks out of the inspection plate
about 1/4".
Do not archive.
Walt Shipley RV-8A Flying, RV-8 building
-----Original Message-----
>From: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>Sent: Jul 16, 2006 9:22 AM
>To: RV-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: OAT probe position
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>
>I am about to hook up the outside air temp probe. After consulting the
>web (thank goodness) I am thinking about placing the sensor in the FAB
>prior to the air filter in the snorkel area. My logic says it would give
>me OAT with out the heating of the engine temps affecting it. It should
>give me air temps for my EFIS to compute DA. My second choice is the
>inboard inspection panel in the wing. The FAB position would require no
>disconnecting. Am I not seeing something?
>
>
>Jim Nelson
>RV9-A FWF
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
Konrad L. Werner wrote:
> How about radiant engine heat affecting the sensor? And isn't the FAB
> downstream of the cylinders, i.e. where the heated air goes after
> cooling the fins?
>
> I'd put it under the wing, perhaps right behind the pitot tube.
>
> do not archive
That is exactly where I put mine. It works great. I have a Dynon unit.
The factory lead was a little short. I called Rynon about lengthening
it. They said go ahead and make it what ever I needed. It is mounted a
couple inches behind and in line with the pitot extension.
Phil
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Tire marking material |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Richard Seiders wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
>
> Are my tires the only ones that move on the rims rendering the paint
> marks useless?
I your tires are truly rotating on the rims, I'd be more worried about
sheared valve stems than marking the tires. The problem is usually the
opposite: The SOBs act like they're glued to the rims when you go to
change them out. Even though I liberally apply talc to the rims during
assembly, the tires/rims never come apart easily.
Linn
do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
Nope, not if you want an accurate reading. I was doing some glide
performance testing on an RV-6 in the winter, and the OAT indication
varied depending on how much cabin heat we had selected. The back
side of the probe was being warmed from the cockpit, and that was
affecting the indication. This would likely be an issue even if
cabin heat was not selected, as the greenhouse effect from the canopy
means the cockpit temperature is usually warmer than ambient.
Kevin Horton
On 17 Jul 2006, at 08:42, Richard Seiders wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
>
> Naca duct works
>
>
> At 09:22 AM 7/16/2006, you wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>>
>> I am about to hook up the outside air temp probe. After
>> consulting the
>> web (thank goodness) I am thinking about placing the sensor in the
>> FAB
>> prior to the air filter in the snorkel area. My logic says it
>> would give
>> me OAT with out the heating of the engine temps affecting it. It
>> should
>> give me air temps for my EFIS to compute DA. My second choice is the
>> inboard inspection panel in the wing. The FAB position would
>> require no
>> disconnecting. Am I not seeing something?
>>
Message 13
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| Subject: | re: Have a Grand Rapids EIS 4000 manual as computer file? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Thanks for the manual, Bill.
Do Not Archive
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Very true. The only time my NACA duct mounted OAT probe is accurate is when the
airplane has finally cooled down to the ambient temperature, such as occurs
after being parked in the hangar overnight. One of these days I will get around
to relocating that probe and the farther away from the engine compartment,
the better.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 153 hours
ronlee(at)pcisys.net wrote:
>
> > Naca duct works
> >
> >
>
>
> Negative on an RV-6A. You get too much heat from the engine area.
>
> Ron Lee
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=47841#47841
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
--> RV-List message posted by: "macrafic" <macrafic@charter.net>
I had asked Dynon about the OAT position a few months ago. They indicated that,
while they could not tell me where to put it, that RV aircraft had had excellent
results in the rear fuselage under the horizontal stabilizer. Covering their
legal positions while still trying to answer my question. So, I'm going
to go with the that soltion, the same one Denis Walsh has stated in another reply
here.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=47856#47856
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Lightspeed Ignition Problem |
In a message dated 7/17/2006 9:13:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
martin@gbonline.com writes:
Charlie,
I went to an auto parts store and asked for a standard GM coil. Apparantly,
this is a very common item. You will have to mount them on the firewall
over a piece of non conductive material, because the contact point is on the
bottom of the coil. I used brass strips to exit the coil and provide a spade
connector for the input to the coil. The output of course is a sparkplug
wire.
Dick Martin
Getting ready for the Air Venture race
Having worked on the design of GM's distributorless ignition systems, I can
pass along a small piece of advice. Ground the laminations of the coils. I
think the GM coils will have a metal strip evident under one of the mounting
bolts. Be sure this gets grounded. Otherwise the laminations float to a
high voltage and finally arc causing radio noise or interference to the
electronics of the ignition system.
Along the same lines, if the secondary connections have even a very small
gap you get what we called micro-arcing. A 1 thousandth of an inch arc,
believe it or not, causes interference that can wreak havoc with the electronics
of
the ignition system -- that is the computer or logic driving the coils.
This micro-arcing is much harder to deal with than the arc at the spark plug gap.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: re: Have a Grand Rapids EIS 4000 manual as computer file? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
no problem...
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 8:20 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Thanks for the manual, Bill.
Do Not Archive
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
Well, what can I say: Here's proof that Great Minds think alike!
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: OAT probe position
Konrad L. Werner wrote:
How about radiant engine heat affecting the sensor? And isn't the
FAB downstream of the cylinders, i.e. where the heated air goes after
cooling the fins?
I'd put it under the wing, perhaps right behind the pitot tube.
do not archive
That is exactly where I put mine. It works great. I have a Dynon unit.
The factory lead was a little short. I called Rynon about lengthening
it. They said go ahead and make it what ever I needed. It is mounted a
couple inches behind and in line with the pitot extension.
Phil
do not archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
No virus found in this incoming message.
7/14/2006
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Seiders <seiders@bellsouth.net>
Maybe on your 6A, not mine. My oat is consistent with in air temp reports.
Guess it depends where you put it.
Dick
At 09:23 AM 7/17/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>
>
>>Naca duct works
>
>
>Negative on an RV-6A. You get too much heat from the engine area.
>
>Ron Lee
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: best construction web sites |
After looking at the products offered, free or otherwise I decided I wanted
more control on the daily pages. No restriction on how many pictures and
the ability to embed the photos in the text so I used MediaWiki. Its the
software used by Wikipedia and is open-source so it is free. Didn't take
but about an hour to come up to speed and most hosting companies have the
script to get you started easily.
I agree about the digital camera. I also recomend using Picasa2 from the
Google site. Handles downloading the photos from your camera and all the
corrections and sizing you might want to do; all for free.
My site is www.N669RV.com and I welcome any constructive criticism.
Michael Hudson
Hillsboro, Oregon
On 7/16/06, James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>
> Michael,
> I'm no geek on computers and with my first build I did it with a
> camera and made a scrapbook. Now I have a digital camera and it makes it
> soooo much easier. I am using Expercraft.com. It is free and you can
> upload your pix with each days work. I really appreciate the ease and
> of course, no expense for the web site. Your welcome to visit my site at
> http://websites,expercraft.com/jimn to see how my build is going.
>
> Jim Nelson
> RV9-A FWF
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Marker Beacon Antennas |
--> RV-List message posted by: alan@reichertech.com
Does anyone have any meaningful info on the drag due to the different
marker beacon antenna types (boat vs. sled)?
- Alan
RV-8 Perpetual Tail Kit
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon Antennas |
Bob Archer says a stripped coax in the wingtip will do the trick.....no
antenna needed.
I think it is 40" long. Did that in my 10 but not flying yet.
Doug
#40372
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
People can do anything even if wrong but with the prevailing comments that
away from the engine area is best why anyone would still go against good
advise is beyond me.
Ron Lee
>Maybe on your 6A, not mine. My oat is consistent with in air temp reports.
>Guess it depends where you put it.
>Dick
>
>
>At 09:23 AM 7/17/2006, you wrote:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>>
>>
>>>Naca duct works
>>
>>
>>Negative on an RV-6A. You get too much heat from the engine area.
>>
>>Ron Lee
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Major new product announcement from Vans |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <3edcft6@cox.net>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 7/17/2006 2:03:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> 3edcft6@cox.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <3edcft6@cox.net>
>
> Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>
> > OK Chris,
> >
> > I came up with 14,387 cubic feet. We're pretty close. Lets
> compare
> > notes.
> >
>
> As close as we were I think the reason for the difference is the
> numbers
> we used for the density of air and helium. I just used the first
> number
> I found which I found here...
> http://www.elmhurst.edu/~chm/vchembook/imagespdb/123Adensitygas.html#table
> Helium = 0.00018 grams/ml or 0.0112 lbs/ft^3
> Air = 0.00128 grams/ml or 0.0799 lbs/ft^3
>
> Chris,
>
> You're right. I used the table in my old Sears and Zemansky college
> physics book. It is probably correct, but for 0 degrees C.
>
> Helium = 0.1785E-3 gm/cc
> Air = 1.2929E-3 gm/cc
>
> A cc is the same as a ml.
>
> That would be a lot of sewing! Hey, you could make it half the
> size if you used hydrogen!
>
> Hydrogen = 0.0899 gm/cc
>
Hydrogen would require only half the VOLUME, but cutting the volume in
half only reduces the overall dimensions by about 21%
Say you have 8 cubic feet. (2 x 2 x 2) and now you want only 4 cubic
feet that would be 1.587 x 1.587 x 1.587
1.587/2 is .794 or 79.4%. Thus a reduction in size of only 20.6%, gives
you a 50% reduction in volume. Conversely, a 26% increase in size,
gives a 100% increase in volume. Isn't math fun?
do not archive
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon Antennas |
What Doug describes worked great for me. As per the recommendation of
several "experts," I took a 40" length of RG400 and stripped away the
outer jacket and double shielding, leaving just the insulated center
conductor. Glassed that into my right wingtip, bottom surface. There
is a BNC connector on it so I can remove the wingtip easily. I do fly
IFR with my RV-7, fwiw, got about 1000 hours on it. This marker beacon
approach WORKS.
whatsoever. Strip of aluminum or copper for example. Whatever floats
your boat.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Marker Beacon Antennas
Bob Archer says a stripped coax in the wingtip will do the
trick.....no antenna needed.
I think it is 40" long. Did that in my 10 but not flying yet.
Doug
#40372
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> People can do anything even if wrong but with the prevailing comments that
> away from the engine area is best why anyone would still go against good
> advise is beyond me.
>
> Ron Lee
Well said, Ron! If you put your OAT probe out under the wing, you KNOW it
will not suffer from any other heat source. If you put it anywhere else,
like on the fuselage, under the HS, in your NACA vent, in your airbox, do
you KNOW it will work?! Where is there the LEAST risk of inaccuracy? This
is my new pet peeve!!!
If you don't care about OAT inaccuracy, leave the silly thing out! If you
fly IFR you will want one. If you need it for density altitude
calculations, then by all means don't put it where sun could hit it!! Put
it where you KNOW it will work!! Argh!!
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Marker Beacon Antennas |
Ditto.
Except I only have 250hrs.
Mike
Do not archive
_____
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 2:24 PM
What Doug describes worked great for me. As per the recommendation of
several "experts," I took a 40" length of RG400 and stripped away the
outer jacket and double shielding, leaving just the insulated center
conductor. Glassed that into my right wingtip, bottom surface. There
is a BNC connector on it so I can remove the wingtip easily. I do fly
IFR with my RV-7, fwiw, got about 1000 hours on it. This marker beacon
approach WORKS.
whatsoever. Strip of aluminum or copper for example. Whatever floats
your boat.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Marker Beacon Antennas
Bob Archer says a stripped coax in the wingtip will do the
trick.....no antenna needed.
I think it is 40" long. Did that in my 10 but not flying yet.
Doug
#40372
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Major new product announcement from Vans |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Myth or fact: Hydrogen is too dangerous to use.
www.clean-air.org/hindenberg
"Remember the Hindenberg". There is a site with history & facts to present.
HOWEVER, I saw my brother in-law blow up a car battery attempting to "jump"
start a car because of hydrogen buildup. He was lucky the flash & acid
missed him completely. But it sure made a mess of the engine compartment,
wheel well, brake and fender on one car & the paint job on the other.
Anybody know what 14K cubic feet of Helium or 7K cubic feet of Hydrogen
would cost ?.
By the way the "experts" blame the Hinderberg fire on the paint, what kind
of paint ?. Aluminum of course. Interesting read. KABONG Do Not Archive.
I'll stick with gasoline that you can smell, I can't but you can.
That would be a lot of sewing! Hey, you could make it half the
>> size if you used hydrogen!
>> Hydrogen = 0.0899 gm/cc
>>
>
>
> Hydrogen would require only half the VOLUME, but cutting the volume in
> half only reduces the overall dimensions by about 21%
>
> Say you have 8 cubic feet. (2 x 2 x 2) and now you want only 4 cubic
> feet that would be 1.587 x 1.587 x 1.587
> 1.587/2 is .794 or 79.4%. Thus a reduction in size of only 20.6%, gives
> you a 50% reduction in volume. Conversely, a 26% increase in size, gives
> a 100% increase in volume. Isn't math fun?
>
> do not archive
>
>
> --
> Chris W
> KE5GIX
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon Antennas |
Bob suggests mounting the 40" wire starting at the trailing edge of the
wingtip. The wire should run 3" outboard (and parallel to) the metal wing skin.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 07/17/2006 11:28:41 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
What Doug describes worked great for me. As per the recommendation of
several "experts," I took a 40" length of RG400 and stripped away the outer jacket
and double shielding, leaving just the insulated center conductor. Glassed
that into my right wingtip, bottom surface. There is a BNC connector on it
so I can remove the wingtip easily. I do fly IFR with my RV-7, fwiw, got
about 1000 hours on it. This marker beacon approach WORKS.
Strip of aluminum or copper for example. Whatever floats your boat.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
_http://www.rvproject.com_ (http://www.rvproject.com/)
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Marker Beacon Antennas |
I also did this, although I'm not flying yet either. You can see some
less than spectacular pics here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=msausen&project=22
&ca
tegory=624&log=6520&row=4
You may need to paste the link back together. Sorry, I'm too lazy to
use a URL shortener. ;-)
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Recent RV-10 Build Activity
<http://www.mykitlog.com/display_project.php?project_id=22>
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 1:24 PM
What Doug describes worked great for me. As per the recommendation of
several "experts," I took a 40" length of RG400 and stripped away the
outer jacket and double shielding, leaving just the insulated center
conductor. Glassed that into my right wingtip, bottom surface. There
is a BNC connector on it so I can remove the wingtip easily. I do fly
IFR with my RV-7, fwiw, got about 1000 hours on it. This marker beacon
approach WORKS.
whatsoever. Strip of aluminum or copper for example. Whatever floats
your boat.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Marker Beacon Antennas
Bob Archer says a stripped coax in the wingtip will do the
trick.....no antenna needed.
I think it is 40" long. Did that in my 10 but not flying yet.
Doug
#40372
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
Of course, there is always the temperature rise due to compressibility.
I'm surprised some of the technocrats haven't jumped in on this. At 200
mph, it should be about 3 degrees at the stagnation point. Or 90% of that in
the boundary layer.
I know there is a Mach number squared term in the equation, and someone is
bound to correct me that it is only a 2.45834659 degree rise. Or some other
insignificantly different number. :-)
Actually, 3 degrees is pretty insignificant, as long as it is consistent.
BTW, the RMI microencoder OAT calculates and compensates for the
compressibility temperature rise. I haven't checked into the rest, yet.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 07/17/2006 11:28:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> People can do anything even if wrong but with the prevailing comments that
> away from the engine area is best why anyone would still go against good
> advise is beyond me.
>
> Ron Lee
Well said, Ron! If you put your OAT probe out under the wing, you KNOW it
will not suffer from any other heat source. If you put it anywhere else,
like on the fuselage, under the HS, in your NACA vent, in your airbox, do
you KNOW it will work?! Where is there the LEAST risk of inaccuracy? This
is my new pet peeve!!!
If you don't care about OAT inaccuracy, leave the silly thing out! If you
fly IFR you will want one. If you need it for density altitude
calculations, then by all means don't put it where sun could hit it!! Put
it where you KNOW it will work!! Argh!!
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Van's announcement leaked |
--> RV-List message posted by: "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick@cox.net>
Actually, It was leaked that Vans is partnering with Honda to supply their new
aviation engine in Vans aircraft. [Laughing]
Regards,
Tom Velvick
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=47973#47973
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Major new product announcement from Vans |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 12:04:55 2006-07-17 "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net> wrote:
> Myth or fact: Hydrogen is too dangerous to use.
> www.clean-air.org/hindenberg
Link didn't work for me, but I found this one that's similar.
http://www.clean-air.org/hindenberg.htm
(just in case anyone is interested... it *is* an interesting read, if not
RV-Related).
-Rob
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Van's announcement leaked |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Say it isn't so! I sooo wanted a Harley powered RV motorglider... :(
:P
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Finishing Kit should be crating this week...
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomvelvick
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 1:12 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick@cox.net>
Actually, It was leaked that Vans is partnering with Honda to supply their
new aviation engine in Vans aircraft. [Laughing]
Regards,
Tom Velvick
do not archive
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Van's announcement leaked |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV Builder (Michael Sausen)" <rvbuilder@sausen.net>
I heard it was a VLJ using an Innodyn variant and forward swept wing.
Michael Sausen
RV-10 #352 Working on Fuselage
Oh ya, Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomvelvick
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 3:12 PM
--> RV-List message posted by: "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick@cox.net>
Actually, It was leaked that Vans is partnering with Honda to supply
their new aviation engine in Vans aircraft. [Laughing]
Regards,
Tom Velvick
do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=47973#47973
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Van's announcement leaked |
--> RV-List message posted by: Joseph Larson <jpl@showpage.org>
You know, a honda-powered motorglider might be a nice option. To
pick the engine of choice, Van would have a few folks shop around at
various motorcycle junkyards to see which model engines are most
readily available in a "used" state. Motorcycles involved in
accidents can be junked if the frame is just slightly out of
alignment -- the manufacturers don't sell replacement frames, and the
bike is considered unrideable with a bent frame. (This happened to
me after someone ran a red light.)
There could be a ready supply of thousands of useable engines.
-Joe
do not archive
On Jul 17, 2006, at 3:31 PM, Patrick Kelley wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
>
> Say it isn't so! I sooo wanted a Harley powered RV motorglider... :(
>
>
> :P
>
> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Finishing Kit should be crating this week...
>
> -----Original Message-----
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of tomvelvick
> Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 1:12 PM
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "tomvelvick" <tomvelvick@cox.net>
>
> Actually, It was leaked that Vans is partnering with Honda to
> supply their
> new aviation engine in Vans aircraft. [Laughing]
>
> Regards,
> Tom Velvick
> do not archive
>
Message 37
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Nic" <Nic@skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
Fuel is expensive and unfortunately my RH tank decides to empty itself via
the air vent / drain whenever it is either full or it gets hot.
Our guess is that the air vent tube doesn't reach the top of the tank, hence
the pressure builds up and vents the fuel (If you open the filler there is a
gush of released air pressure). The LH tank behaves itself.
I don't want to remove the tank as I am flying - If I drill a 16" vent in
the filler cap of this problematic QB tank, will the tank empty due to
venturi in-flight - or is this the best solution ?
Any remedies to save my fuel bill - much appreciated.
Rgds, Nic
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
One cause could be a loose connection (internal) of the vent line-to-
inboard rib. This will allow the expanding air to force fuel
overboard until the tank is more than half empty!
check the vent line for integrity. If needed, It can be tightened
by removing the inspection plate and use a mirror to guide your
wrench to tighten it up.
You would be surprised how many of those forget to get themselves
tightened back up after loosening for riveting the tanks.
Denis Walsh
On Jul 17, 2006, at 07:13 548330007, Nic wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Nic" <Nic@skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
>
> Fuel is expensive and unfortunately my RH tank decides to empty
> itself via
> the air vent / drain whenever it is either full or it gets hot.
>
> Our guess is that the air vent tube doesn't reach the top of the
> tank, hence
> the pressure builds up and vents the fuel (If you open the filler
> there is a
> gush of released air pressure). The LH tank behaves itself.
>
> I don't want to remove the tank as I am flying - If I drill a 16"
> vent in
> the filler cap of this problematic QB tank, will the tank empty due to
> venturi in-flight - or is this the best solution ?
>
> Any remedies to save my fuel bill - much appreciated.
>
> Rgds, Nic
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Van's announcement leaked |
I heard they have come up with a 5 part epoxy primer that we will all be
required to use. This is good because it solves the primer war, but the
down side is it only comes in the color mauve so our cockpits will not be so
pretty...
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Van's announcement leaked |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
My guess is that this was leaked simply because Van's generally
dislikes the RV list. They knew they could jam it up with this crap
for at least a few weeks.
Sigh. What a great way to spam up the RV list.
Do not archive.
Denis Walsh
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: OAT probe position |
Actually, rather than worrying about figuring out the mach number,
there is an alternative equation that uses TAS:
OAT = IOAT - K*TAS^2/7592
where:
OAT = outside air temperature in deg C
IOAT = indicated OAT in deg C
K = recovery factor of the temperature probe. Usually around 0.95,
but the value could be different.
TAS = true airspeed in knots
Kevin Horton
On 17 Jul 2006, at 15:21, LessDragProd@aol.com wrote:
> Of course, there is always the temperature rise due to
> compressibility.
>
> I'm surprised some of the technocrats haven't jumped in on this.
> At 200 mph, it should be about 3 degrees at the stagnation point.
> Or 90% of that in the boundary layer.
>
> I know there is a Mach number squared term in the equation, and
> someone is bound to correct me that it is only a 2.45834659 degree
> rise. Or some other insignificantly different number. :-)
> Actually, 3 degrees is pretty insignificant, as long as it is
> consistent.
>
> BTW, the RMI microencoder OAT calculates and compensates for the
> compressibility temperature rise. I haven't checked into the rest,
> yet.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
> In a message dated 07/17/2006 11:28:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> dan@rvproject.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> > People can do anything even if wrong but with the prevailing
> comments that
> > away from the engine area is best why anyone would still go
> against good
> > advise is beyond me.
> >
> > Ron Lee
>
> Well said, Ron! If you put your OAT probe out under the wing, you
> KNOW it
> will not suffer from any other heat source. If you put it anywhere
> else,
> like on the fuselage, under the HS, in your NACA vent, in your
> airbox, do
> you KNOW it will work?! Where is there the LEAST risk of
> inaccuracy? This
> is my new pet peeve!!!
>
> If you don't care about OAT inaccuracy, leave the silly thing out!
> If you
> fly IFR you will want one. If you need it for density altitude
> calculations, then by all means don't put it where sun could hit
> it!! Put
> it where you KNOW it will work!! Argh!!
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 17 Jul 2006, at 17:13, Nic wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Nic" <Nic@skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
>
> Fuel is expensive and unfortunately my RH tank decides to empty
> itself via
> the air vent / drain whenever it is either full or it gets hot.
>
> Our guess is that the air vent tube doesn't reach the top of the
> tank, hence
> the pressure builds up and vents the fuel (If you open the filler
> there is a
> gush of released air pressure). The LH tank behaves itself.
>
> I don't want to remove the tank as I am flying - If I drill a 16"
> vent in
> the filler cap of this problematic QB tank, will the tank empty due to
> venturi in-flight - or is this the best solution ?
>
> Any remedies to save my fuel bill - much appreciated.
I would expect that you should be able to see the outboard end of the
vent through the filler cap with a mirror and a flashlight. Compare
the ones on the left and the right to see if there is a difference.
If the right one isn't up against the top of the tank, it could
explain the problem. I don't see an easy way to fix that. I think
the tank would have to come off, and you would cut a hole in the rear
baffle to provide access, then proseal a cover on.
If the outboard end of the vent line looks normal, another
possibility would be if the vent line inside the tank wasn't
connected to the fitting on the inboard rib. If this is the problem,
you could get at it via the access cover on the inboard rib.
Good luck,
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> If the right one isn't up against the top of the tank, it could explain
> the problem. I don't see an easy way to fix that. I think
Reach in (with some tool contraption) and bend it upward? The tubing is
pretty soft.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Van's announcement leaked |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
OR he's "dumb like a fox". All this buzz & he didn't have spend one thin
dime or expend any employee time. What better way to make sure EVERYONE goes
by the Van's Booth at OSH. He got directly to his target audience and let
them (US) spread the word.
"because Van's generally dislikes the RV list".
YGBSM, the RV lists has and are providing more advertising for Van's than
any other medium, including RVator, Fun n Sun, regional EAA & OSH combined.
Do Not Archive KABONG 8*)
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 2:43 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
> My guess is that this was leaked simply because Van's generally dislikes
> the RV list. They knew they could jam it up with this crap for at least
> a few weeks.
>
> Sigh. What a great way to spam up the RV list.
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> Denis Walsh
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank vent |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Nic,
The open end of the vent tube should be held in place with a small al
tab sharing with one of the rivets holding the filler neck to the tank
skin. As Kevin says you can see it with a mirror and light.
It is possible that the vent has become unhooked from this tab. A
little root canal work through the filler neck may be all that is
necessary.
Doug Gray
do not archive
On Mon, 2006-07-17 at 22:13 +0100, Nic wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Nic" <Nic@skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
>
> Fuel is expensive and unfortunately my RH tank decides to empty itself via
> the air vent / drain whenever it is either full or it gets hot.
>
> Our guess is that the air vent tube doesn't reach the top of the tank, hence
> the pressure builds up and vents the fuel (If you open the filler there is a
> gush of released air pressure). The LH tank behaves itself.
>
> I don't want to remove the tank as I am flying - If I drill a 16" vent in
> the filler cap of this problematic QB tank, will the tank empty due to
> venturi in-flight - or is this the best solution ?
>
> Any remedies to save my fuel bill - much appreciated.
>
> Rgds, Nic
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Garry" <garrys@tampabay.rr.com>
I am at the point now where I need to install the parking brake on my RV7A.
There are no directions or instructions that I could find as to how or where
to install it. What have some of you experienced builders done?
Or......should I just forget about installing it altogether since I'm now
doubting whether I really need it. Comments?
Garry Stout
RV7A, Odessa Florida
Message 47
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Nic:
Everyone else have told possible causes and potental fixes.
Just a warning. DO NOT dirll a hole in your filler cap. You will lose more
fuel when you are flying from the low pressure suction over the wing.
About all I can add to what others have said, only fill the tank part way to
see if it vents fuel on the ground. How low does it need to be before it
stops venting? If I fill my tanks, I will vent out some fuel in the hot sun
but it stops when the fuel quits expanding. Have you measured the amout of
fuel that comes out of the vent? If you get one or two liters and it stops,
it may only be expansion of fuel in a full tank. If you get more than 6 or
8 liters, then more than likely the vent line is lose at the bulkhead
fitting.
After the inspection of the vent line at the fuel cap as others suggested,
if it looks good, find a helper and a hose. Connect the hose to the vent
and blow into the tank. Have your friend look in the tank through the
filler to see where the air is coming out. Should narrow down where the
leak is.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,894 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
--> RV-List message posted by: "Nic" <Nic@skyhi.flyer.co.uk>
Fuel is expensive and unfortunately my RH tank decides to empty itself via
the air vent / drain whenever it is either full or it gets hot.
Our guess is that the air vent tube doesn't reach the top of the tank, hence
the pressure builds up and vents the fuel (If you open the filler there is a
gush of released air pressure). The LH tank behaves itself.
I don't want to remove the tank as I am flying - If I drill a 16" vent in
the filler cap of this problematic QB tank, will the tank empty due to
venturi in-flight - or is this the best solution ?
Any remedies to save my fuel bill - much appreciated.
Rgds, Nic
Message 48
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| Subject: | Re: Major new product announcement from Vans |
In a message dated 7/17/2006 1:50:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
3edcft6@cox.net writes:
Hydrogen would require only half the VOLUME, but cutting the volume in
half only reduces the overall dimensions by about 21%
Say you have 8 cubic feet. (2 x 2 x 2) and now you want only 4 cubic
feet that would be 1.587 x 1.587 x 1.587
1.587/2 is .794 or 79.4%. Thus a reduction in size of only 20.6%, gives
you a 50% reduction in volume. Conversely, a 26% increase in size,
gives a 100% increase in volume. Isn't math fun?
do not archive
--
Chris W
KE5GIX
Chris,
Try 1/(cube root of 2)=.7937 since we're going from a cubic dimension to a
linear dimension. In other words, if we reduce all the linear dimensions to
.7937 of what they were, the volume will be one half of what it was. Same
thing as what you are saying -- just more fun with math!
do not archive
Dan
Dan
Message 49
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| Subject: | Garmin @96 needed |
Hiya folks, my 296 has come up missing. Anybody have one they may want
to sell? I could even get by with a 196 for a while. I made a flight
today over the Ark mountains and was trying to keep track of my location
but admit I was gratefull to have a borrowed unit helping me out. Pls
reply to my email, Tnx Charlie Heathco. do not archive
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon Antennas |
--> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin" <martin@gbonline.com>
The marker beacon antenna works very well in the fiberglass wingtip of my
RV8.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 12:38 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: alan@reichertech.com
>
>
> Does anyone have any meaningful info on the drag due to the different
> marker beacon antenna types (boat vs. sled)?
>
> - Alan
> RV-8 Perpetual Tail Kit
>
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel tank vent |
I vote for a loose connection at the bulkhead fitting, That would
explain
the =BD tank effect.
Note that Vans SB to safety wire and tighten internal fittings on 7 and
9
tanks includes the very fitting mentioned.
Mike
Message 52
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| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "N901DT" <N901DT@houston.rr.com>
I can't tell you where to mount the parking park on a -7. I can tell you
that I use my parking brake a fair amount and absolutely love having it on
my -8. Mine is mount on a bracket under the panel where the flexible line
from the master cylinders on the pedals meets the solid lines going to the
wheels. The parking brake replaces the bulkhead fitting / union where the
flex and solid lines meet. I am able to reach the lever on the parking
brake housing by hand and thus no cables are needed to set the brakes. I
used the Matco parking brake system. Hope that helps.
do not archive
David
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 6:52 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Garry" <garrys@tampabay.rr.com>
>
> I am at the point now where I need to install the parking brake on my
> RV7A. There are no directions or instructions that I could find as to how
> or where to install it. What have some of you experienced builders done?
> Or......should I just forget about installing it altogether since I'm now
> doubting whether I really need it. Comments?
>
> Garry Stout
> RV7A, Odessa Florida
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Van's announcement leaked |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Denis:
Way back when, some of Van's employees most knowledgeable employees
participated actively on the list (on their own time) and provided
invaluable assistance to the early builders. I'm sure they were discouraged
by the signal to noise ratio and gave up.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 5:43 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
> My guess is that this was leaked simply because Van's generally dislikes
> the RV list. They knew they could jam it up with this crap for at least
> a few weeks.
>
> Sigh. What a great way to spam up the RV list.
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> Denis Walsh
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: Van's announcement leaked |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
OOPS, one too many "employees" in the last message.
Sorry.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 11:48 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
>
> Denis:
>
> Way back when, some of Van's employees most knowledgeable employees
> participated actively on the list (on their own time) and provided
> invaluable assistance to the early builders. I'm sure they were
> discouraged by the signal to noise ratio and gave up.
>
> Dick Sipp
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 5:43 PM
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>>
>> My guess is that this was leaked simply because Van's generally dislikes
>> the RV list. They knew they could jam it up with this crap for at least
>> a few weeks.
>>
>> Sigh. What a great way to spam up the RV list.
>>
>> Do not archive.
>>
>>
>> Denis Walsh
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>> http://wiki.matronics.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Location |
In a message dated 7/17/2006 4:56:21 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
garrys@tampabay.rr.com writes:
I am at the point now where I need to install the parking brake on my RV7A.
There are no directions or instructions that I could find as to how or where
to install it. What have some of you experienced builders done?
===============================
I find mine very useful, but make sure you do the change over to the Viton
O-rings and MIL-PRF-83282 fluid while you're at it.
My cable is a detent (semi-locking) bowden type and is mounted to the left
gear tower. I have the Cleveland Brand Parking Brake Valve and use it all the
time.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 801hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Marker Beacon Antennas |
--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Besing <pbesing@yahoo.com>
On my new panel conversion, I added a bent whip for a
second comm, a boat type marker beacon antenna in my
RV-4. No change in cruise performance. Nothing
measurable, anyway. Go to www.mykitlog.com/pbesing
and you can see the antenna placements.
Paul Besing
--- dick martin <martin@gbonline.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "dick martin"
> <martin@gbonline.com>
>
> The marker beacon antenna works very well in the
> fiberglass wingtip of my
> RV8.
> Dick Martin
> RV8 N233M
> the fast one
> ----- Original Message -----
> Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 12:38 PM
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by:
> alan@reichertech.com
> >
> >
> > Does anyone have any meaningful info on the drag
> due to the different
> > marker beacon antenna types (boat vs. sled)?
> >
> > - Alan
> > RV-8 Perpetual Tail Kit
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 57
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| Subject: | Re: Parking Brake Location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Gary,
I mounted mine about 4" to 5" directly above the standard location for the
flex lines to the brake pedals. Because it was a retro fit I made up two
short extensions with aluminums tubing and AN fittings. the mount for the
park brake took some thinking but worked out fine.
There is an issue with the positioning of the actuating arm on the unit.
Mine came from Van's without paper work of any kind and it took a bit
research to find out the precise brake on and brake off positioning of it
for the best functioning hook-up. There where quite a few emails on the list
about it during that time so the archives do have the info.
I no longer have the info on hand However I'm sure someone will be happy to
come forward with the right info.
I like the idea of having the feature and I have had the occasion to use it
twice now while moving the as yet un-flown aircraft.
Lots of luck,
Jim in Kelowna - it'll fly soon
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 4:52 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Garry" <garrys@tampabay.rr.com>
>
> I am at the point now where I need to install the parking brake on my
> RV7A. There are no directions or instructions that I could find as to how
> or where to install it. What have some of you experienced builders done?
> Or......should I just forget about installing it altogether since I'm now
> doubting whether I really need it. Comments?
>
> Garry Stout
> RV7A, Odessa Florida
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 58
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| Subject: | Re: Van's announcement leaked |
Hey Scott is a "Good-Guy". He didn't give-up, he was hounded off. Though I
really believe he still monitors the list. He's just too smart to pipe up and
get jumped on some more.
Richard Sipp <rsipp@earthlink.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp"
Denis:
Way back when, some of Van's employees most knowledgeable employees
participated actively on the list (on their own time) and provided
invaluable assistance to the early builders. I'm sure they were discouraged
by the signal to noise ratio and gave up.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Monday, July 17, 2006 5:43 PM
> --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh
>
> My guess is that this was leaked simply because Van's generally dislikes
> the RV list. They knew they could jam it up with this crap for at least
> a few weeks.
>
> Sigh. What a great way to spam up the RV list.
>
> Do not archive.
>
>
> Denis Walsh
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
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