Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:49 AM - =?utf-8?Q?[PHISHING]: Camarillo Airshow? (JACK LOCKAMY)
2. 08:23 AM - Re: io360-a1b (BPA)
3. 11:34 AM - Cabe exit for the MAC servo - Elevator RV6 (Jan)
4. 01:09 PM - Re: wing fillets ()
5. 01:41 PM - Re: Request for updates: E-MagsRequest for updates: E-Mags (Fred Stucklen)
6. 04:34 PM - Wandering Compass (jim-bean@att.net)
7. 04:52 PM - canopy care (glen matejcek)
8. 05:57 PM - Re: Cabe exit for the MAC servo - Elevator RV6 (Dale Ensing)
9. 06:37 PM - Re: Wandering Compass (Mike Kraus)
10. 07:05 PM - Re: canopy care (Bobby Hester)
11. 07:13 PM - Re: canopy care (Ron Lee)
12. 08:01 PM - Re: Wandering Compass (Bill Boyd)
13. 08:40 PM - Re: canopy care (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | =?utf-8?Q?[PHISHING]: Camarillo Airshow? |
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Just a reminder, if you need a weekend destination... The Camarillo (KCM
A) Air Show is this weekend......Aug. 19 & 20th.
http://www.camarilloairshow.com/
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
ww.jacklockamy.com
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Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "BPA" <BPA@BPAENGINES.COM>
The governor drive shaft has a thrust surface, therefore the 'steel
ring' which is actually a thrust washer installs between the housing and
retaining ring. The picture in some of the parts catalogs that show the
ring directly under the gear end of the drive shaft is a typo.
Allen Barrett
BPE, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert
Sent: Saturday, August 12, 2006 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: io360-a1b
--> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
Thanks Rhonda
any resolution on the correct position of the steel ring in the governor
drive adapter??
Gert
Rhonda Bewley wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Rhonda Bewley" <Rhonda@BPAENGINES.com>
>
> The 06A19956 part number is the superceding p/n for STD-2217 according
> to the Lycoming Parts History manual. Probably no difference other
than
> who the vendor is that was used to produce the part number, or a
process
> change in how the seal was manufactured.
>
> Rhonda
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert
> Sent: Thursday, August 10, 2006 10:07 PM
> To: rv-list; RV-8@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: io360-a1b
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
>
> Hi Folks
>
> can anybody tell me the difference between the 06A19956 and STD2217
oil
> seals, both are 7/8" i.d. x 1-1/2" o.d. x 5/16" wide.
> according to the parts book, my vacuum pump adapter should have the
> 06A19956 seal, but has the STD2217 seal and it needs replacing,
>
>
> also, in the parts book, page 2-4 of the parts manual, it shows steel
> ring #3 to sit on top of the drive gear, under the tail of #16.
However
> on page 5-4 of the overhaul manual as well as on page 1-23 of the
limits
>
> and torque supplement, it shows the steel ring under the snapring
> holding the shaft in place. I looked at two adapters, and wouldn't u
> know, one had the ring on top and one had the ring at the bottom.
> Anybody knows the correct placement??
>
> any input greatly appreciated.
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Gert
>
>
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Cabe exit for the MAC servo - Elevator RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jan <jan@claver.demon.co.uk>
Can anyone recommend the best cable exit for the MAC servo on a RV6. I have
seen people using the original hole in the main spar E602 (which was for the
manual cable) ... and I have seen people drilling a new hole in the small
side spar E609. In the Elevator horn - close to the tube...
Appreciate advice on this.
Best regards
Jan
RV6
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: wing fillets |
I don't think anyone did formal analysis of the wing fillet or wrote and
article. I know cafe foundation did not do a report. If any SA article
was printed I don't recall any detail analysis or comparison. However
I do know a RV'er who tried it and went back to stock wing-body
faring because he found no measurable change in performance.
One thing no one mentioned is when you install one of these big
wing junction fairings you introduce a bunch of small detail. You end
up with another edge along the fuselage and extra fasteners. Usually
made of fiberglass, the aftermarket fairings have more thickness at
the edge where the fairing laps over the wing and fuselage. The
stock aluminum fairing is very thin and has no edge lapped up onto
the fuselage.
Just from the above EDGE FACTOR" what ever gain you get will
likely be negated buy extra drag from the installation. If you have a
custom wing to side of body fairing you may be able to feather all
edges making this less of an issue, at the expense of extra work and
possible body fillers.
I hear the theories about the wing is near 90 degrees and the Corsair
F4U and other comments, which may be true, but until you do wind
tunnel work or better flight test, you don't know.
A well designed and installed (no draggy details) wing root fillet
fairing could improve "intersection drag". I say COULD, but like all
things in aerospace design there are trade-offs, compromises and
the famous no free lunch rule.
Gain verses extra weight and more details? Even if perfectly
executed, it's likely this modification will produce only small benefit.
The off the shelf fairings are too small (radius wise) and have poor
installation details. The fairing should blend right into the mating
surfaces of the wing and fuselage with no edge or protruding
fasteners.
The plan flat stock Van's set up provides a light weight, simple, least
attach hardware and holes. As far as drag it is pretty good and if you
could improve it in any way with a swoopy fillet, wing root to body
junction faring, it would be hard to measure.
Often fiberglass fairings start to warp and gap after time, especially
a big wing body fairing with long straight edges. I had the ORIGINAL
fillet wing/body faring on my RV-4, which had a wrap-around fiberglass
wing leading edge cuff. The remainder of the fairing was made with
aluminum sheet fillet on top, flat aluminum on bottom. As with Van's
designs, it was pretty darn good. Again you still need fasteners in the
fuselage. It was OK, but I replace it with the newer style flat faring; it
was just cleaner looking. I did not do a before after because I made
several changes at the same time.
George RV-4/RV-7
---------------------------------
Stay in the know. Pulse on the new Yahoo.com. Check it out.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Request for updates: E-MagsRequest for updates: E-Mags |
Gordon,
I'm running a single "P"Mag along side another electronic ignition
(Jeff Rose System). So far, after 50 Hrs of use, the "P"Mag has run
flawlessly. I have experienced one issue with abnormal spark plug wear,
but am not sure if it's ignition system related....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Time: 09:51:23 PM PST US
From: rver273sb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Request for updates: E-Mags
Gorden, I am currently running the latest generation e-mag and
p-mag. Although
I had trouble with the earlier ones, these have proven to be
excellent. I am running
the AFP system and have been for years. It has performed
flawlesly. The
combination has proven to be excellent! Can run lean of peak too.
Stewart, RV4 colorado (do not archive )
-----Original Message-----
From: gcomfo@tc3net.com
Sent: Mon, 14 Aug 2006 5:46 PM
Subject: RV-List: Re: Request for updates: E-Mags
--> RV-List message posted by: "gordon or marge"
<gcomfo@tc3net.com>
If anyone on the list has recent experience with E-Mags/P-Mags
and is
willing to share their observations, good and bad, I would
appreciate
hearing from you. If you would be willing to talk to my engine
builder that
would be great also. I am currently trying to decide whether to
use them
with a regular fuel injection system or to wait for the
development of the
Precision Eagle system. In either case G & N will set the system
up in
their test cell but currently they have little info on the E-Mag
and really
would like me to use the Eagle. The installed weight of the Eagle
will be
higher by about the weight of the backup battery chosen and the
cost will be
greater by a grand or a little more. The Eagle has a lot of
boxes.
Thanks a lot.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 6
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| Subject: | Wandering Compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: jim-bean@att.net
all,
I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel mount,
not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries
substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin 430 is
about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels so the
main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop be
magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error rather than
swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk?
Confused
Jim Bean
N99JA 37 hours.
Message 7
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Hi All-
I've been searching the archives with squat for success, so I'll toss this out
to the list. I find myself using various solvents in some proximity to my canopy
on occasion. Can anyone post a simple list that describes the relative hazard
factor for various fluids, like: acetone, toluene, MEK are instant disaster;
alcohol, gasoline, naptha are damaging over time, water is fine?
TIA, fellas-
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cabe exit for the MAC servo - Elevator RV6 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dale Ensing" <densing@carolina.rr.com>
Jan,
I used the original hole on my -6A and it has worked well. Just takes a
little work to get the wire bundle protected properly and adjusted for
correct length.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jan" <jan@claver.demon.co.uk>
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 2:06 PM
Subject: RV-List: Cabe exit for the MAC servo - Elevator RV6
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jan <jan@claver.demon.co.uk>
>
> Can anyone recommend the best cable exit for the MAC servo on a RV6. I
have
> seen people using the original hole in the main spar E602 (which was for
the
> manual cable) ... and I have seen people drilling a new hole in the small
> side spar E609. In the Elevator horn - close to the tube...
>
> Appreciate advice on this.
>
> Best regards
>
> Jan
> RV6
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Wandering Compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
I have never seen a panel mounted compass that works in an RV. Mine
would never swing east, no matter what....
The only one I have ever seen work is above panel mount.
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
jim-bean@att.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 7:33 PM
Subject: RV-List: Wandering Compass
--> RV-List message posted by: jim-bean@att.net
all,
I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel
mount,
not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries
substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin
430 is
about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels
so the
main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop
be
magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error
rather than
swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk?
Confused
Jim Bean
N99JA 37 hours.
Message 10
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Kerosene is ok, it will clean off tape goo with out hurting it.
My new email address: bobbyhester@charter.net
Surfing the Web from Hopkinsville, KY
Visit my web site at: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite/
RV7A N857BH SB wings-QB Fuse-XPO360 engine :-)
glen matejcek wrote:
> Hi All-
>
> I've been searching the archives with squat for success, so I'll toss
> this out to the list. I find myself using various solvents in some
> proximity to my canopy on occasion. Can anyone post a simple list
> that describes the relative hazard factor for various fluids, like:
> acetone, toluene, MEK are instant disaster; alcohol, gasoline, naptha
> are damaging over time, water is fine?
>
> TIA, fellas-
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba@earthlink.net <mailto:aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
>I've been searching the archives with squat for success, so I'll toss this
>out to the list. I find myself using various solvents in some proximity
>to my canopy on occasion. Can anyone post a simple list that describes
>the relative hazard factor for various fluids, like: acetone, toluene,
>MEK are instant disaster; alcohol, gasoline, naptha are damaging over
>time, water is fine?
>
What a coincidence. Todays Light Plane Maintenance covers this very topic.
Assuming acrylic window:
Ammonia is bad as are aromatic solvents (MEK, acetone, lacquer thinner,
gasoline
paint stripper.
Safest solvents are 100% mineral spirits (odorless is best), kerosene.
Try to find a copy (Sep 2006) for all the details.
Ron Lee
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Wandering Compass |
My whiskey compass would swing crazily in response to control stick
movements on the ground.. the pax stick was magnetized and too near the
compass. A switch to aluminum tube for the right stick corrected this. I
have no clue why Van supplies steel for this part when aluminum seems plenty
robust for the task and is lighter and nonmagnetic. I plan to replace the
pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing -
haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the pounds
take care of themselves...
-Stormy
On 8/15/06, jim-bean@att.net <jim-bean@att.net> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: jim-bean@att.net
>
> all,
> I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel
> mount,
> not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries
> substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin
> 430 is
> about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels so
> the
> main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop be
> magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error rather
> than
> swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk?
> Confused
> Jim Bean
> N99JA 37 hours.
>
>
Message 13
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In a message dated 8/15/2006 4:57:39 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
aerobubba@earthlink.net writes:
I've been searching the archives with squat for success, so I'll toss this
out to the list. I find myself using various solvents in some proximity to my
canopy on occasion. Can anyone post a simple list that describes the
relative hazard factor for various fluids, like: acetone, toluene, MEK are
instant disaster; alcohol, gasoline, naptha are damaging over time, water is
fine?
================================
If I recall my materials science, there is a rating called a Kauri Butanol
Factor (sp) that is a good relative rating of solvency for purposes of
dissolving resins and such.
Just guessing, I would imagine that a solvency list for Acrylic would go
something like this, from worst to best: MEK, Methylene Chloride, Ethyl Ether,
Acetone, other Ketones, TCE, TCA, Gasoline and other Benzenes, Freons,
Alcohols, Naphtha (white gas), Terpenes (Turpentine, d-Limonene and similar),
Water.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 804hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
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