Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:57 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
2. 01:48 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Doug Gray)
3. 05:02 AM - Re: Aluminum Control Stick -- was Wandering Compass (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 05:33 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Randy Hooper)
5. 05:54 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Bill Boyd)
6. 06:24 AM - Re: Aluminum Control Stick -- was Wandering Compass (Bill Boyd)
7. 06:43 AM - Re: canopy care (glen matejcek)
8. 06:53 AM - Re: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass (glen matejcek)
9. 07:04 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Kevin Horton)
10. 09:19 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Finn Lassen)
11. 09:57 AM - Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale (Robert E. Newhall II)
12. 09:57 AM - Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale (Robert E. Newhall II)
13. 10:11 AM - Re: Re: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass (Bill Boyd)
14. 10:19 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Bill Boyd)
15. 10:27 AM - Cleaveland Tool Sale (Cleaveland Aircraft Tool)
16. 10:48 AM - Re: Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale (Jerry Grimmonpre)
17. 11:00 AM - Looking for AN816-4-6D (Gerry Filby)
18. 11:00 AM - Re: Re: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass (Bob J.)
19. 11:30 AM - Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D (Dan Checkoway)
20. 12:04 PM - Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D (Gerry Filby)
21. 07:00 PM - Tail lifting during full power static test (JhnstnIII@aol.com)
22. 07:12 PM - Re: Tail lifting during full power static test (linn Walters)
23. 07:13 PM - Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D (C J Heitman)
24. 08:06 PM - Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D (Charlie Kuss)
25. 08:44 PM - Tail lifting during full power static test (JOHN STARN)
26. 08:54 PM - Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D (Dan Checkoway)
27. 09:33 PM - Re: Tail lifting during full power static test (D.Bristol)
28. 10:43 PM - Rv 7 wing kit for sale (J2j3h4@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wandering Compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 8/15/06 7:38:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jim-bean@att.net
writes:
> all,
> I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel
> mount, not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that
carries
> substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin
430
> is about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels
so
> the main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop
be
> magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error rather
> than swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk?
> Confused
> Jim Bean
> N99JA 37 hours.
==================
Jim:
The Chinese invented the compass, except way back then it was a South seeking
instead of North. Maybe it is trying to revert back to its ancestry?
A simple check for electromagnetic fields can be done by starting the engine,
then shut off the Master and ALL circuits. Then one item at a time turn it
on observe the compass and then turn it off.
Did the compass ever work correctly in the installation?
Does the "swings" maintain a constant error?
Have you ever adjusted the "Swing" of the compass?
Get a Good Boy Scout Compass and work it around the panel while going through
the power ON / Off steps. It will POINT to the problem area.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Wandering Compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Jim,
See if you can get hold of 'growler' I think they are commonly used for
demagnetising starter armatures (SnapOn tools?). Plug it into the mains
and wave it over all the steel parts. This will make a huge difference
to the compass performance.
It might be a good idea to remove the compass (and any other
magnetically sensitive items) before degaussing the steel.
Doug Gray
On Tue, 2006-08-15 at 23:32 +0000, jim-bean@att.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: jim-bean@att.net
>
> all,
> I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel mount,
> not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries
> substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin 430
is
> about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels so the
> main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop be
> magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error rather than
> swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk?
> Confused
> Jim Bean
> N99JA 37 hours.
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Control Stick -- was Wandering Compass |
Stormy,
I'd strongly suggest just demagnetizing both sticks and stay with the 4130
steel sticks. Even though RV's are pretty light on the controls, doing high
rate rolls requires considerable stick force.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 8/16/2006 2:21:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
sportav8r@gmail.com writes:
My whiskey compass would swing crazily in response to control stick
movements on the ground.. the pax stick was magnetized and too near the compass.
A
switch to aluminum tube for the right stick corrected this. I have no clue
why Van supplies steel for this part when aluminum seems plenty robust for the
task and is lighter and nonmagnetic. I plan to replace the pilot's stick
with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing - haven't bothered to
look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the pounds take care of
themselves...
-Stormy
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Wandering Compass |
An easy way to check for magnetized items is to use a non magnetized steel
sewing needle suspended by a thread near all steel parts. If you need to
remove a magnetic field, a Weller pistol type soldering gun will do the
trick. Just pull the trigger and hold it near the object. It is best to
make sure the needle is demagnetized before starting and after it touches
any magnetic item.
Randy Hooper
On 8/16/06, Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
> Jim,
>
> See if you can get hold of 'growler' I think they are commonly used for
> demagnetising starter armatures (SnapOn tools?). Plug it into the mains
> and wave it over all the steel parts. This will make a huge difference
> to the compass performance.
>
> It might be a good idea to remove the compass (and any other
> magnetically sensitive items) before degaussing the steel.
>
> Doug Gray
>
> On Tue, 2006-08-15 at 23:32 +0000, jim-bean@att.net wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: jim-bean@att.net
> >
> > all,
> > I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel
> mount,
> > not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries
> > substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin
> 430 is
> > about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels
> so the
> > main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop
> be
> > magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error
> rather than
> > swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk?
> > Confused
> > Jim Bean
> > N99JA 37 hours.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Wandering Compass |
My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side
joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the compass'
tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure why the joysticks
aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for the task and certainly
lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of control forces was Van engineering
for when he did that, I wonder?
-Stormy
On 8/16/06, FLYaDIVE@aol.com <FLYaDIVE@aol.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 8/15/06 7:38:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jim-bean@att.net
> writes:
>
> > all,
> > I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel
> > mount, not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that
> carries
> > substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A
> Garmin
> 430
> > is about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side
> panels
> so
> > the main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover
> hoop
> be
> > magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error
> rather
> > than swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk?
> > Confused
> > Jim Bean
> > N99JA 37 hours.
> ==================
> Jim:
>
> The Chinese invented the compass, except way back then it was a South
> seeking
> instead of North. Maybe it is trying to revert back to its ancestry?
>
> A simple check for electromagnetic fields can be done by starting the
> engine,
> then shut off the Master and ALL circuits. Then one item at a time turn
> it
> on observe the compass and then turn it off.
>
> Did the compass ever work correctly in the installation?
>
> Does the "swings" maintain a constant error?
>
> Have you ever adjusted the "Swing" of the compass?
>
> Get a Good Boy Scout Compass and work it around the panel while going
> through
> the power ON / Off steps. It will POINT to the problem area.
>
> Barry
> "Chop'd Liver"
>
> "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the
> third
> time."
> Yamashiada
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Control Stick -- was Wandering Compass |
Dan: I do the high-rate rolls you speak of, to the point where max
deflection gives a pronounced aileron stall buffet, and the control forces
involved (in a -6, anyway) are far less than what would begin to flex a 7/8"
x .049 aluminum tube. I have no actual numbers, but no actual worries,
either.
At this point, only my pax-side tube is aluminum, but i believe I will one
day replace my stick as well, for the weight savings.
-Stormy
On 8/16/06, Hopperdhh@aol.com <Hopperdhh@aol.com> wrote:
>
>
> Stormy,
>
> I'd strongly suggest just demagnetizing both sticks and stay with the 4130
> steel sticks. Even though RV's are pretty light on the controls, doing high
> rate rolls requires considerable stick force.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
>
>
> In a message dated 8/16/2006 2:21:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> sportav8r@gmail.com writes:
>
> My whiskey compass would swing crazily in response to control stick
> movements on the ground.. the pax stick was magnetized and too near the
> compass. A switch to aluminum tube for the right stick corrected this. I
> have no clue why Van supplies steel for this part when aluminum seems plenty
> robust for the task and is lighter and nonmagnetic. I plan to replace the
> pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing -
> haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the pounds
> take care of themselves...
>
> -Stormy
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Man, I love the way this list can work! Thanks to all-
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi Stormy-
RE: I plan to replace the
> pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing -
> haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the pounds
> take care of themselves...
Take a look at http://www.aedmotorsport.com/ They seem to have just about
any aluminum or steel that a homebuilder could want. They are on the NW
side of Indy, and used to cater to aviation, but switched to the racing
crowd. They will still supply aviators without batting an eye, though.
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wandering Compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
It might be acceptable to replace the passenger stick with an
aluminum one, but I would be hesitant to do this for the pilot's
stick. An aluminum pilot's stick might be OK for normal flight
conditions, but there have been cases on RVs, and other aircraft,
where something jams the controls. In this case, the pilot may need
to exert a very high force on the stick to overcome the jam. If the
stick bends or breaks before the jam is overcome, then this leads to
an accident.
Kevin Horton
On 16-Aug-06, at 7:53 AM, Bill Boyd wrote:
> My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side
> joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the
> compass' tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure
> why the joysticks aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for
> the task and certainly lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of
> control forces was Van engineering for when he did that, I wonder?
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wandering Compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
My guess it's more a point of ease of fabrication. I mean the weldment
at the bottom.
Now you have too go and make it complicated, splitting the thing into
two: steel weldment at the bottom and alu stick at the top :)
Finn
Bill Boyd wrote:
> My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side
> joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the compass'
> tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure why the
> joysticks aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for the task and
> certainly lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of control forces was
> Van engineering for when he did that, I wonder?
>
> -Stormy
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2@yahoo.com>
I have a lighted, analog Van's 2 1/4" EGT gauge (p/n:
IE VEGT1600) for sale (replaced it with a digital one
recently). Gauge is like new, no scratches.
Probe and wire exension included (Well-worn but it
works). $40 (price include shipping). (New parts
from Vans would be $45+95+37=$177)
Bob Newhall
Boulder, CO
RV 7, flying 250hrs
Message 12
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| Subject: | Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2@yahoo.com>
I have a lighted, analog Van's 2 1/4" EGT gauge (p/n:
IE VEGT1600) for sale (replaced it with a digital one
recently). Gauge is like new, no scratches.
Probe and wire exension included (Well-worn but it
works). $40 (price include shipping). (New parts
from Vans would be $45+95+37=$177)
Bob Newhall
Boulder, CO
RV 7, flying 250hrs
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RE: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass |
Thanks, Glen. Good supplier to know about. Wonder if GV has added them to
the Yeller Pages?
-Stormy
On 8/16/06, glen matejcek <aerobubba@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> Hi Stormy-
>
> RE: I plan to replace the
> > pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing -
> > haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the
> pounds
> > take care of themselves...
>
> Take a look at http://www.aedmotorsport.com/ They seem to have just
> about
> any aluminum or steel that a homebuilder could want. They are on the NW
> side of Indy, and used to cater to aviation, but switched to the racing
> crowd. They will still supply aviators without batting an eye, though.
>
> glen matejcek
> aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Wandering Compass |
Good thought, Kevin. My guess is something else in the "drive train" like a
bellcrank would give way first, but that's purest speculation on my part. I
have no desire to test the elevator or aileron linkages to failure just to
see what gives first. The hardest force I've ever held on the controls in
flight was the time my trim control deck left me stuck with inop elevator
trim in the landing config and I was in takeoff and cruise mode. Fought
that for 20 minutes with about 15 lbs?? of forward stick force before I gave
up and returned to land and fix it at home rather that press on to the
destination. There are no standard flight maneuvers I can think of that
call for anywhere near that force in an RV. My arms were like jell-o when I
landed, from isotonic muscle fatigue. Since I was using a stgeel joystick,
I suppose that proves nothing to the present point ;-)
-Stormy
On 8/16/06, Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com> wrote:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
> It might be acceptable to replace the passenger stick with an
> aluminum one, but I would be hesitant to do this for the pilot's
> stick. An aluminum pilot's stick might be OK for normal flight
> conditions, but there have been cases on RVs, and other aircraft,
> where something jams the controls. In this case, the pilot may need
> to exert a very high force on the stick to overcome the jam. If the
> stick bends or breaks before the jam is overcome, then this leads to
> an accident.
>
> Kevin Horton
>
>
> On 16-Aug-06, at 7:53 AM, Bill Boyd wrote:
>
> > My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side
> > joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the
> > compass' tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure
> > why the joysticks aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for
> > the task and certainly lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of
> > control forces was Van engineering for when he did that, I wonder?
> >
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Cleaveland Tool Sale |
I wanted to announce a rare sale that we are having at Cleaveland
Aircraft Tool. We try and keep prices reasonable all the time rather
than running specials, however our inventory level is just too high
after the summer show season has come to an end. As a result we have
decided to have an "inventory reduction sale" or a give-away sale as I
like to call it as all of the items are at, near, or below our cost.
Some of the items are:
Clekos (you will never see Wedgeloc brand clekos at this price)
3M wheels
C-Frame
Air Drills
Wire Twisters
Unibits and hole cutter sets
Dimple dies
Many others.
Check out the whole list at
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/specials.asp be sure to click into
the "special pricing" on each item to see the sale price.
The items will drop off as inventory levels come down so act fast.
Retroactive discounts will not be given for previous orders.
Thanks,
Mike
---Do not archive---
Mike Lauritsen
Cleaveland Aircraft Tool
2225 First St.
Boone, Iowa 50036
515-432-6794
mike@cleavelandtool.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" <jerry@mc.net>
Do Not Archive
Hi Bob ...
I've sent you a email to buy it, my shipping address included.
Jerry Grimmonpre'
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert E. Newhall II" <renewhall2@yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 11:57 AM
Subject: RV-List: Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II"
> <renewhall2@yahoo.com>
>
> I have a lighted, analog Van's 2 1/4" EGT gauge (p/n:
> IE VEGT1600) for sale (replaced it with a digital one
> recently). Gauge is like new, no scratches.
>
> Probe and wire exension included (Well-worn but it
> works). $40 (price include shipping). (New parts
> from Vans would be $45+95+37=$177)
>
>
> Bob Newhall
> Boulder, CO
> RV 7, flying 250hrs
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Looking for AN816-4-6D |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer
between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The
hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I
think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks
lists them - any leads on where I can get it ?
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RE: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass |
The cheapest supplier of raw material around is Dillsburg Aero in PA. They
are the cheapest by FAR. I buy from AED since they are local to me when I'm
in a pinch for something, but they are much more expensive.
http://www.airbum.com/articles/ArticleDillsburgAero.html
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Maybe try http://www.bonacoinc.com. They've done some hoses for me and
stock some wacky fittings.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1034 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:59 AM
Subject: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D
> --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
> I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer
> between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The
> hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I
> think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks
> lists them - any leads on where I can get it ?
>
> __g__
>
> =========================================================
> Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> Tel: 415 203 9177
> ----------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
Thx, but unfortunately no go ...
Looks like an AN912-2D bushing combined with an AN816-4-4D
nipple is the only way to go ...
g
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Maybe try http://www.bonacoinc.com. They've done some hoses for me and
> stock some wacky fittings.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (1034 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Gerry Filby" <gerf@gerf.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:59 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
> >
> >
> > I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer
> > between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The
> > hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I
> > think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks
> > lists them - any leads on where I can get it ?
> >
> > __g__
> >
> > =========================================================
> > Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
> > Tel: 415 203 9177
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 21
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| Subject: | Tail lifting during full power static test |
Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness certificate
application it requires the builder to state that "the powerplant
installation has undergone at least one hour of ground operation at various speeds
from
idle to full power. . . ." Yesterday during the first full power static test
holding brakes and with the stick full aft the tail came up on me. Because
I was approaching full power gradually (being nervous about just this sort of
possibility) I was able to quickly close the throttle before the prop hit
the ground.
Aircraft has an 0-360 and constant speed prop. Aircraft was light with just
me aboard and a few gallons of fuel. Aircraft was recently weighed and
empty CG was a few inches aft of forward limit.
I was able to complete the test by tying down the tail securely. It is
still not a pleasant test to do.
Tonight checking the archives I see this characteristic has been reported
previously (in 1999) for both the RV-6 and the RV-8 with constant speed props.
Thought I would mention it again for anyone out there about to do this test.
Be very careful.
LeRoy Johnston in Ohio.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Tail lifting during full power static test |
JhnstnIII@aol.com wrote:
> Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness
> certificate application it requires the builder to state that "the
> powerplant installation has undergone at least one hour of ground
> operation at various speeds from idle to full power. . . ." Yesterday
> during the first full power static test holding brakes and with the
> stick full aft the tail came up on me. Because I was approaching full
> power gradually (being nervous about just this sort of possibility) I
> was able to quickly close the throttle before the prop hit the ground.
Good move! Also be careful when doing a full-power runup prior to
taking the runway. The nose-over syndrome should be lessened with full
fuel. However, if you don't have the brakes holding completely under
high power and the plane starts to move ..... the normal impulse is to
press harder on the brake pedals. That small additional momentum may be
enough to put the TD up on it's nose, and pulling the power may not
work. Just something to think about.
Linn
do not archive
>
> Aircraft has an 0-360 and constant speed prop. Aircraft was light
> with just me aboard and a few gallons of fuel. Aircraft was recently
> weighed and empty CG was a few inches aft of forward limit.
>
> I was able to complete the test by tying down the tail securely. It
> is still not a pleasant test to do.
>
> Tonight checking the archives I see this characteristic has been
> reported previously (in 1999) for both the RV-6 and the RV-8 with
> constant speed props.
>
> Thought I would mention it again for anyone out there about to do this
> test. Be very careful.
>
> LeRoy Johnston in Ohio.
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Looking for AN816-4-6D |
--> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" <cjh@execpc.com>
Gerry,
Not in aluminum, but plated steel is available:
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3250
3250-06-04S 3/8 NPT Male to 4AN Male Steel Adapter $2.99 In Stock
Chris Heitman
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer
between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The
hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I
think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks
lists them - any leads on where I can get it ?
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D |
At 01:59 PM 8/16/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>
>
>I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer
>between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The
>hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I
>think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks
>lists them - any leads on where I can get it ?
>
>__g__
Gerry,
I'm a bit confused by your question. By definition, an AN816
fitting is AN male tubing (flare) on one end and male pipe thread
(NPT) on the other. You have an AN4 hose, so you need #4 tube fitting
on one end. What do you mean by #6 pipe fitting? Pipe fitting is
either 1/16", 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" NPT or NPT. Do you need 1/4"
NPT or 3/8" NPT?
Charlie Kuss
PS, Why would a fuel line for an RV only be AN4?
Message 25
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| Subject: | Tail lifting during full power static test |
Don't look now BUT Gummibear & I (and others) have been YELLING "Tie it
down" & have someone (without glasses) hold the tail down for at least
the past five years. Maybe we need to have re-runs of very important
safety issues every 3 to 6 months. While on the subject: Do Not stomp on
the brakes of ANY RV- conventional geared airplane at slow speed
(walking/taxi speed). They WILL, not might, they WILL put their nose on
the tarmac quicker than you can react. KABONG Do Not Archive it's
already in there several times.
Subject: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static test
Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness
certificate application it requires the builder to state that "the
powerplant installation has undergone at least one hour of ground
operation at various speeds from idle to full power. . . ." Yesterday
during the first full power static test holding brakes and with the
stick full aft the tail came up on me. Because I was approaching full
power gradually (being nervous about just this sort of possibility) I
was able to quickly close the throttle before the prop hit the ground.
LeRoy Johnston in Ohio.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D |
Charlie,
Pretty sure Gerry's transducer has 1/4" NPT female "ports" on it.
On an injected 360, despite the fuel supply hose being a -6, the metered
fuel line (servo to flow divider) is just a -4...at least on every
installation I've ever seen.
)_( Dan
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Kuss
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 8:04 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D
At 01:59 PM 8/16/2006, you wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer
between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The
hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I
think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks
lists them - any leads on where I can get it ?
__g__
Gerry,
I'm a bit confused by your question. By definition, an AN816 fitting
is AN male tubing (flare) on one end and male pipe thread (NPT) on the
other. You have an AN4 hose, so you need #4 tube fitting on one end.
What do you mean by #6 pipe fitting? Pipe fitting is either 1/16", 1/8",
1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" NPT or NPT. Do you need 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT?
Charlie Kuss
PS, Why would a fuel line for an RV only be AN4?
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Tail lifting during full power static test |
Also, be very careful with that hour of ground operation, if you have a
new or overhauled engine you can ruin it in short order. Watch your
temps closely. And, it's a bad idea to do a full power runup in any
small taildragger without the tail tied down.
Dave -6 So Cal
linn Walters wrote:
> JhnstnIII@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness
>> certificate application it requires the builder to state that "the
>> powerplant installation has undergone at least one hour of ground
>> operation at various speeds from idle to full power. . . ."
>> Yesterday during the first full power static test holding brakes and
>> with the stick full aft the tail came up on me. Because I was
>> approaching full power gradually (being nervous about just this sort
>> of possibility) I was able to quickly close the throttle before the
>> prop hit the ground.
>
> Good move! Also be careful when doing a full-power runup prior to
> taking the runway. The nose-over syndrome should be lessened with
> full fuel. However, if you don't have the brakes holding completely
> under high power and the plane starts to move ..... the normal impulse
> is to press harder on the brake pedals. That small additional
> momentum may be enough to put the TD up on it's nose, and pulling the
> power may not work. Just something to think about.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>>
>> Aircraft has an 0-360 and constant speed prop. Aircraft was light
>> with just me aboard and a few gallons of fuel. Aircraft was
>> recently weighed and empty CG was a few inches aft of forward limit.
>>
>> I was able to complete the test by tying down the tail securely. It
>> is still not a pleasant test to do.
>>
>> Tonight checking the archives I see this characteristic has been
>> reported previously (in 1999) for both the RV-6 and the RV-8 with
>> constant speed props.
>>
>> Thought I would mention it again for anyone out there about to do
>> this test. Be very careful.
>>
>> LeRoy Johnston in Ohio.
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Rv 7 wing kit for sale |
Since I have been informed that I cannot pass my medical, I am forced to
abandon my RV 7 project and have a wing kit for sale. It has not been started
and is still in the original shipping crate. I am asking $5200 for it, which
was the price from Van's when I bought it, but will consider reasonable
offers. The current price at Van's was $5800 the last time I checked.
I also have a lot of miscellaneous items - instruments, elevator electric
trim kit, wet vacuum
pump, air/oil separator, empennage fairing, and probably a few other small
things lying around.
Please call or email if you need any of these.
Do not archive.
Jim Hasper
615-483-0306
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