---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 08/16/06: 28 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:57 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (FLYaDIVE@aol.com) 2. 01:48 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Doug Gray) 3. 05:02 AM - Re: Aluminum Control Stick -- was Wandering Compass (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 4. 05:33 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Randy Hooper) 5. 05:54 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Bill Boyd) 6. 06:24 AM - Re: Aluminum Control Stick -- was Wandering Compass (Bill Boyd) 7. 06:43 AM - Re: canopy care (glen matejcek) 8. 06:53 AM - Re: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass (glen matejcek) 9. 07:04 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Kevin Horton) 10. 09:19 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Finn Lassen) 11. 09:57 AM - Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale (Robert E. Newhall II) 12. 09:57 AM - Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale (Robert E. Newhall II) 13. 10:11 AM - Re: Re: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass (Bill Boyd) 14. 10:19 AM - Re: Wandering Compass (Bill Boyd) 15. 10:27 AM - Cleaveland Tool Sale (Cleaveland Aircraft Tool) 16. 10:48 AM - Re: Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale (Jerry Grimmonpre) 17. 11:00 AM - Looking for AN816-4-6D (Gerry Filby) 18. 11:00 AM - Re: Re: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass (Bob J.) 19. 11:30 AM - Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D (Dan Checkoway) 20. 12:04 PM - Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D (Gerry Filby) 21. 07:00 PM - Tail lifting during full power static test (JhnstnIII@aol.com) 22. 07:12 PM - Re: Tail lifting during full power static test (linn Walters) 23. 07:13 PM - Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D (C J Heitman) 24. 08:06 PM - Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D (Charlie Kuss) 25. 08:44 PM - Tail lifting during full power static test (JOHN STARN) 26. 08:54 PM - Re: Looking for AN816-4-6D (Dan Checkoway) 27. 09:33 PM - Re: Tail lifting during full power static test (D.Bristol) 28. 10:43 PM - Rv 7 wing kit for sale (J2j3h4@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:57:52 AM PST US From: FLYaDIVE@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Wandering Compass --> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com In a message dated 8/15/06 7:38:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jim-bean@att.net writes: > all, > I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel > mount, not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries > substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin 430 > is about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels so > the main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop be > magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error rather > than swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk? > Confused > Jim Bean > N99JA 37 hours. ================== Jim: The Chinese invented the compass, except way back then it was a South seeking instead of North. Maybe it is trying to revert back to its ancestry? A simple check for electromagnetic fields can be done by starting the engine, then shut off the Master and ALL circuits. Then one item at a time turn it on observe the compass and then turn it off. Did the compass ever work correctly in the installation? Does the "swings" maintain a constant error? Have you ever adjusted the "Swing" of the compass? Get a Good Boy Scout Compass and work it around the panel while going through the power ON / Off steps. It will POINT to the problem area. Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 01:48:20 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Wandering Compass From: Doug Gray --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray Jim, See if you can get hold of 'growler' I think they are commonly used for demagnetising starter armatures (SnapOn tools?). Plug it into the mains and wave it over all the steel parts. This will make a huge difference to the compass performance. It might be a good idea to remove the compass (and any other magnetically sensitive items) before degaussing the steel. Doug Gray On Tue, 2006-08-15 at 23:32 +0000, jim-bean@att.net wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: jim-bean@att.net > > all, > I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel mount, > not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries > substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin 430 is > about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels so the > main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop be > magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error rather than > swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk? > Confused > Jim Bean > N99JA 37 hours. > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:02:41 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum Control Stick -- was Wandering Compass Stormy, I'd strongly suggest just demagnetizing both sticks and stay with the 4130 steel sticks. Even though RV's are pretty light on the controls, doing high rate rolls requires considerable stick force. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/16/2006 2:21:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, sportav8r@gmail.com writes: My whiskey compass would swing crazily in response to control stick movements on the ground.. the pax stick was magnetized and too near the compass. A switch to aluminum tube for the right stick corrected this. I have no clue why Van supplies steel for this part when aluminum seems plenty robust for the task and is lighter and nonmagnetic. I plan to replace the pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing - haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the pounds take care of themselves... -Stormy ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:33:16 AM PST US From: "Randy Hooper" Subject: Re: RV-List: Wandering Compass An easy way to check for magnetized items is to use a non magnetized steel sewing needle suspended by a thread near all steel parts. If you need to remove a magnetic field, a Weller pistol type soldering gun will do the trick. Just pull the trigger and hold it near the object. It is best to make sure the needle is demagnetized before starting and after it touches any magnetic item. Randy Hooper On 8/16/06, Doug Gray wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray > > Jim, > > See if you can get hold of 'growler' I think they are commonly used for > demagnetising starter armatures (SnapOn tools?). Plug it into the mains > and wave it over all the steel parts. This will make a huge difference > to the compass performance. > > It might be a good idea to remove the compass (and any other > magnetically sensitive items) before degaussing the steel. > > Doug Gray > > On Tue, 2006-08-15 at 23:32 +0000, jim-bean@att.net wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: jim-bean@att.net > > > > all, > > I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel > mount, > > not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that carries > > substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A Garmin > 430 is > > about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side panels > so the > > main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover hoop > be > > magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error > rather than > > swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk? > > Confused > > Jim Bean > > N99JA 37 hours. > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:54:04 AM PST US From: "Bill Boyd" Subject: Re: RV-List: Wandering Compass My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the compass' tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure why the joysticks aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for the task and certainly lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of control forces was Van engineering for when he did that, I wonder? -Stormy On 8/16/06, FLYaDIVE@aol.com wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com > > In a message dated 8/15/06 7:38:08 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > jim-bean@att.net > writes: > > > all, > > I am experiencing large swings in the compass of my RV-8. It is a panel > > mount, not vertical, from Vans. There is nothing really near it that > carries > > substantial current, just a G meter and the VOR indicator head. A > Garmin > 430 > > is about 8 inches away. I have all of my fuses/breakers on the side > panels > so > > the main panel has little on it with current flow. Could the rollover > hoop > be > > magnitized? If it is, why doesn't the compass show a constant error > rather > > than swinging? Or could the (Chinese) compass just be junk? > > Confused > > Jim Bean > > N99JA 37 hours. > ================== > Jim: > > The Chinese invented the compass, except way back then it was a South > seeking > instead of North. Maybe it is trying to revert back to its ancestry? > > A simple check for electromagnetic fields can be done by starting the > engine, > then shut off the Master and ALL circuits. Then one item at a time turn > it > on observe the compass and then turn it off. > > Did the compass ever work correctly in the installation? > > Does the "swings" maintain a constant error? > > Have you ever adjusted the "Swing" of the compass? > > Get a Good Boy Scout Compass and work it around the panel while going > through > the power ON / Off steps. It will POINT to the problem area. > > Barry > "Chop'd Liver" > > "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the > third > time." > Yamashiada > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:24:29 AM PST US From: "Bill Boyd" Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum Control Stick -- was Wandering Compass Dan: I do the high-rate rolls you speak of, to the point where max deflection gives a pronounced aileron stall buffet, and the control forces involved (in a -6, anyway) are far less than what would begin to flex a 7/8" x .049 aluminum tube. I have no actual numbers, but no actual worries, either. At this point, only my pax-side tube is aluminum, but i believe I will one day replace my stick as well, for the weight savings. -Stormy On 8/16/06, Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote: > > > Stormy, > > I'd strongly suggest just demagnetizing both sticks and stay with the 4130 > steel sticks. Even though RV's are pretty light on the controls, doing high > rate rolls requires considerable stick force. > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A > > > In a message dated 8/16/2006 2:21:28 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > sportav8r@gmail.com writes: > > My whiskey compass would swing crazily in response to control stick > movements on the ground.. the pax stick was magnetized and too near the > compass. A switch to aluminum tube for the right stick corrected this. I > have no clue why Van supplies steel for this part when aluminum seems plenty > robust for the task and is lighter and nonmagnetic. I plan to replace the > pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing - > haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the pounds > take care of themselves... > > -Stormy > > > * > > > * > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:43:25 AM PST US From: "glen matejcek" Subject: RV-List: RE: canopy care --> RV-List message posted by: "glen matejcek" Man, I love the way this list can work! Thanks to all- glen matejcek aerobubba@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:53:35 AM PST US From: "glen matejcek" Subject: RV-List: RE: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass --> RV-List message posted by: "glen matejcek" Hi Stormy- RE: I plan to replace the > pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing - > haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the pounds > take care of themselves... Take a look at http://www.aedmotorsport.com/ They seem to have just about any aluminum or steel that a homebuilder could want. They are on the NW side of Indy, and used to cater to aviation, but switched to the racing crowd. They will still supply aviators without batting an eye, though. glen matejcek aerobubba@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:04:56 AM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: Wandering Compass --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton It might be acceptable to replace the passenger stick with an aluminum one, but I would be hesitant to do this for the pilot's stick. An aluminum pilot's stick might be OK for normal flight conditions, but there have been cases on RVs, and other aircraft, where something jams the controls. In this case, the pilot may need to exert a very high force on the stick to overcome the jam. If the stick bends or breaks before the jam is overcome, then this leads to an accident. Kevin Horton On 16-Aug-06, at 7:53 AM, Bill Boyd wrote: > My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side > joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the > compass' tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure > why the joysticks aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for > the task and certainly lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of > control forces was Van engineering for when he did that, I wonder? > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:19:04 AM PST US From: Finn Lassen Subject: Re: RV-List: Wandering Compass --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen My guess it's more a point of ease of fabrication. I mean the weldment at the bottom. Now you have too go and make it complicated, splitting the thing into two: steel weldment at the bottom and alu stick at the top :) Finn Bill Boyd wrote: > My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side > joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the compass' > tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure why the > joysticks aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for the task and > certainly lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of control forces was > Van engineering for when he did that, I wonder? > > -Stormy > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:57:47 AM PST US From: "Robert E. Newhall II" Subject: RV-List: Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II" I have a lighted, analog Van's 2 1/4" EGT gauge (p/n: IE VEGT1600) for sale (replaced it with a digital one recently). Gauge is like new, no scratches. Probe and wire exension included (Well-worn but it works). $40 (price include shipping). (New parts from Vans would be $45+95+37=$177) Bob Newhall Boulder, CO RV 7, flying 250hrs ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:57:47 AM PST US From: "Robert E. Newhall II" Subject: RV-List: Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II" I have a lighted, analog Van's 2 1/4" EGT gauge (p/n: IE VEGT1600) for sale (replaced it with a digital one recently). Gauge is like new, no scratches. Probe and wire exension included (Well-worn but it works). $40 (price include shipping). (New parts from Vans would be $45+95+37=$177) Bob Newhall Boulder, CO RV 7, flying 250hrs ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 10:11:41 AM PST US From: "Bill Boyd" Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass Thanks, Glen. Good supplier to know about. Wonder if GV has added them to the Yeller Pages? -Stormy On 8/16/06, glen matejcek wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "glen matejcek" > > Hi Stormy- > > RE: I plan to replace the > > pilot's stick with aluminum one day, if I can locate proper OD tubing - > > haven't bothered to look for it yet. Look after the ounces and the > pounds > > take care of themselves... > > Take a look at http://www.aedmotorsport.com/ They seem to have just > about > any aluminum or steel that a homebuilder could want. They are on the NW > side of Indy, and used to cater to aviation, but switched to the racing > crowd. They will still supply aviators without batting an eye, though. > > glen matejcek > aerobubba@earthlink.net > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 10:19:34 AM PST US From: "Bill Boyd" Subject: Re: RV-List: Wandering Compass Good thought, Kevin. My guess is something else in the "drive train" like a bellcrank would give way first, but that's purest speculation on my part. I have no desire to test the elevator or aileron linkages to failure just to see what gives first. The hardest force I've ever held on the controls in flight was the time my trim control deck left me stuck with inop elevator trim in the landing config and I was in takeoff and cruise mode. Fought that for 20 minutes with about 15 lbs?? of forward stick force before I gave up and returned to land and fix it at home rather that press on to the destination. There are no standard flight maneuvers I can think of that call for anywhere near that force in an RV. My arms were like jell-o when I landed, from isotonic muscle fatigue. Since I was using a stgeel joystick, I suppose that proves nothing to the present point ;-) -Stormy On 8/16/06, Kevin Horton wrote: > > --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton > > It might be acceptable to replace the passenger stick with an > aluminum one, but I would be hesitant to do this for the pilot's > stick. An aluminum pilot's stick might be OK for normal flight > conditions, but there have been cases on RVs, and other aircraft, > where something jams the controls. In this case, the pilot may need > to exert a very high force on the stick to overcome the jam. If the > stick bends or breaks before the jam is overcome, then this leads to > an accident. > > Kevin Horton > > > On 16-Aug-06, at 7:53 AM, Bill Boyd wrote: > > > My compass gave me fits at frirst, due to magnetism in the pax side > > joystick. Replacing that piece with aluminum tube cured the > > compass' tendency to follow the joystick left and right. Not sure > > why the joysticks aren't aluminum anyhow; seems amply strong for > > the task and certainly lighter and nonmagnetic. What sort of > > control forces was Van engineering for when he did that, I wonder? > > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 10:27:11 AM PST US From: "Cleaveland Aircraft Tool" Subject: RV-List: Cleaveland Tool Sale I wanted to announce a rare sale that we are having at Cleaveland Aircraft Tool. We try and keep prices reasonable all the time rather than running specials, however our inventory level is just too high after the summer show season has come to an end. As a result we have decided to have an "inventory reduction sale" or a give-away sale as I like to call it as all of the items are at, near, or below our cost. Some of the items are: Clekos (you will never see Wedgeloc brand clekos at this price) 3M wheels C-Frame Air Drills Wire Twisters Unibits and hole cutter sets Dimple dies Many others. Check out the whole list at http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/specials.asp be sure to click into the "special pricing" on each item to see the sale price. The items will drop off as inventory levels come down so act fast. Retroactive discounts will not be given for previous orders. Thanks, Mike ---Do not archive--- Mike Lauritsen Cleaveland Aircraft Tool 2225 First St. Boone, Iowa 50036 515-432-6794 mike@cleavelandtool.com ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 10:48:47 AM PST US From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" Subject: Re: RV-List: Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Grimmonpre" Do Not Archive Hi Bob ... I've sent you a email to buy it, my shipping address included. Jerry Grimmonpre' ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert E. Newhall II" Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 11:57 AM Subject: RV-List: Used Van's Analog EGT gauge for sale > --> RV-List message posted by: "Robert E. Newhall II" > > > I have a lighted, analog Van's 2 1/4" EGT gauge (p/n: > IE VEGT1600) for sale (replaced it with a digital one > recently). Gauge is like new, no scratches. > > Probe and wire exension included (Well-worn but it > works). $40 (price include shipping). (New parts > from Vans would be $45+95+37=$177) > > > Bob Newhall > Boulder, CO > RV 7, flying 250hrs > > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 11:00:16 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D From: Gerry Filby --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com Tel: 415 203 9177 ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 11:00:30 AM PST US From: "Bob J." Subject: Re: RV-List: RE: aluminum tube, was Wandering Compass The cheapest supplier of raw material around is Dillsburg Aero in PA. They are the cheapest by FAR. I buy from AED since they are local to me when I'm in a pinch for something, but they are much more expensive. http://www.airbum.com/articles/ArticleDillsburgAero.html Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 11:30:30 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Maybe try http://www.bonacoinc.com. They've done some hoses for me and stock some wacky fittings. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1034 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gerry Filby" Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:59 AM Subject: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby > > > I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer > between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The > hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I > think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks > lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? > > __g__ > > ========================================================= > Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com > Tel: 415 203 9177 > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 12:04:08 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D From: Gerry Filby --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby Thx, but unfortunately no go ... Looks like an AN912-2D bushing combined with an AN816-4-4D nipple is the only way to go ... g > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > > Maybe try http://www.bonacoinc.com. They've done some hoses for me and > stock some wacky fittings. > > )_( Dan > RV-7 N714D (1034 hours) > http://www.rvproject.com > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gerry Filby" > To: > Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 10:59 AM > Subject: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby > > > > > > I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer > > between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The > > hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I > > think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks > > lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? > > > > __g__ > > > > ========================================================= > > Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com > > Tel: 415 203 9177 > > ---------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > -- __g__ ========================================================== Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com Tel: 415 203 9177 ---------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 07:00:10 PM PST US From: JhnstnIII@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static test Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness certificate application it requires the builder to state that "the powerplant installation has undergone at least one hour of ground operation at various speeds from idle to full power. . . ." Yesterday during the first full power static test holding brakes and with the stick full aft the tail came up on me. Because I was approaching full power gradually (being nervous about just this sort of possibility) I was able to quickly close the throttle before the prop hit the ground. Aircraft has an 0-360 and constant speed prop. Aircraft was light with just me aboard and a few gallons of fuel. Aircraft was recently weighed and empty CG was a few inches aft of forward limit. I was able to complete the test by tying down the tail securely. It is still not a pleasant test to do. Tonight checking the archives I see this characteristic has been reported previously (in 1999) for both the RV-6 and the RV-8 with constant speed props. Thought I would mention it again for anyone out there about to do this test. Be very careful. LeRoy Johnston in Ohio. ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 07:12:13 PM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static test JhnstnIII@aol.com wrote: > Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness > certificate application it requires the builder to state that "the > powerplant installation has undergone at least one hour of ground > operation at various speeds from idle to full power. . . ." Yesterday > during the first full power static test holding brakes and with the > stick full aft the tail came up on me. Because I was approaching full > power gradually (being nervous about just this sort of possibility) I > was able to quickly close the throttle before the prop hit the ground. Good move! Also be careful when doing a full-power runup prior to taking the runway. The nose-over syndrome should be lessened with full fuel. However, if you don't have the brakes holding completely under high power and the plane starts to move ..... the normal impulse is to press harder on the brake pedals. That small additional momentum may be enough to put the TD up on it's nose, and pulling the power may not work. Just something to think about. Linn do not archive > > Aircraft has an 0-360 and constant speed prop. Aircraft was light > with just me aboard and a few gallons of fuel. Aircraft was recently > weighed and empty CG was a few inches aft of forward limit. > > I was able to complete the test by tying down the tail securely. It > is still not a pleasant test to do. > > Tonight checking the archives I see this characteristic has been > reported previously (in 1999) for both the RV-6 and the RV-8 with > constant speed props. > > Thought I would mention it again for anyone out there about to do this > test. Be very careful. > > LeRoy Johnston in Ohio. > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 07:13:18 PM PST US From: "C J Heitman" Subject: RE: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D --> RV-List message posted by: "C J Heitman" Gerry, Not in aluminum, but plated steel is available: http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productselection.asp?Product=3250 3250-06-04S 3/8 NPT Male to 4AN Male Steel Adapter $2.99 In Stock Chris Heitman -----Original Message----- --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 08:06:09 PM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D At 01:59 PM 8/16/2006, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby > > >I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer >between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The >hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I >think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks >lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? > >__g__ Gerry, I'm a bit confused by your question. By definition, an AN816 fitting is AN male tubing (flare) on one end and male pipe thread (NPT) on the other. You have an AN4 hose, so you need #4 tube fitting on one end. What do you mean by #6 pipe fitting? Pipe fitting is either 1/16", 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" NPT or NPT. Do you need 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT? Charlie Kuss PS, Why would a fuel line for an RV only be AN4? ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 08:44:01 PM PST US From: "JOHN STARN" Subject: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static test Don't look now BUT Gummibear & I (and others) have been YELLING "Tie it down" & have someone (without glasses) hold the tail down for at least the past five years. Maybe we need to have re-runs of very important safety issues every 3 to 6 months. While on the subject: Do Not stomp on the brakes of ANY RV- conventional geared airplane at slow speed (walking/taxi speed). They WILL, not might, they WILL put their nose on the tarmac quicker than you can react. KABONG Do Not Archive it's already in there several times. Subject: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static test Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness certificate application it requires the builder to state that "the powerplant installation has undergone at least one hour of ground operation at various speeds from idle to full power. . . ." Yesterday during the first full power static test holding brakes and with the stick full aft the tail came up on me. Because I was approaching full power gradually (being nervous about just this sort of possibility) I was able to quickly close the throttle before the prop hit the ground. LeRoy Johnston in Ohio. ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 08:54:41 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D Charlie, Pretty sure Gerry's transducer has 1/4" NPT female "ports" on it. On an injected 360, despite the fuel supply hose being a -6, the metered fuel line (servo to flow divider) is just a -4...at least on every installation I've ever seen. )_( Dan do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: Charlie Kuss To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 8:04 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for AN816-4-6D At 01:59 PM 8/16/2006, you wrote: --> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby I'm trying to install my Advanced Flight Systems fuel totalizer between the fuel controller and the distribution block. The hoses are AN4 and the totalizer has #6 pipe fittings - so I think that should be AN816-4-6D. Neither Spruce nor Wicks lists them - any leads on where I can get it ? __g__ Gerry, I'm a bit confused by your question. By definition, an AN816 fitting is AN male tubing (flare) on one end and male pipe thread (NPT) on the other. You have an AN4 hose, so you need #4 tube fitting on one end. What do you mean by #6 pipe fitting? Pipe fitting is either 1/16", 1/8", 1/4", 3/8" or 1/2" NPT or NPT. Do you need 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT? Charlie Kuss PS, Why would a fuel line for an RV only be AN4? ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 09:33:58 PM PST US From: "D.Bristol" Subject: Re: RV-List: Tail lifting during full power static test Also, be very careful with that hour of ground operation, if you have a new or overhauled engine you can ruin it in short order. Watch your temps closely. And, it's a bad idea to do a full power runup in any small taildragger without the tail tied down. Dave -6 So Cal linn Walters wrote: > JhnstnIII@aol.com wrote: > >> Listers--We are close to flying our RV-6. On the airworthiness >> certificate application it requires the builder to state that "the >> powerplant installation has undergone at least one hour of ground >> operation at various speeds from idle to full power. . . ." >> Yesterday during the first full power static test holding brakes and >> with the stick full aft the tail came up on me. Because I was >> approaching full power gradually (being nervous about just this sort >> of possibility) I was able to quickly close the throttle before the >> prop hit the ground. > > Good move! Also be careful when doing a full-power runup prior to > taking the runway. The nose-over syndrome should be lessened with > full fuel. However, if you don't have the brakes holding completely > under high power and the plane starts to move ..... the normal impulse > is to press harder on the brake pedals. That small additional > momentum may be enough to put the TD up on it's nose, and pulling the > power may not work. Just something to think about. > Linn > do not archive > >> >> Aircraft has an 0-360 and constant speed prop. Aircraft was light >> with just me aboard and a few gallons of fuel. Aircraft was >> recently weighed and empty CG was a few inches aft of forward limit. >> >> I was able to complete the test by tying down the tail securely. It >> is still not a pleasant test to do. >> >> Tonight checking the archives I see this characteristic has been >> reported previously (in 1999) for both the RV-6 and the RV-8 with >> constant speed props. >> >> Thought I would mention it again for anyone out there about to do >> this test. Be very careful. >> >> LeRoy Johnston in Ohio. >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 10:43:03 PM PST US From: J2j3h4@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Rv 7 wing kit for sale Since I have been informed that I cannot pass my medical, I am forced to abandon my RV 7 project and have a wing kit for sale. It has not been started and is still in the original shipping crate. I am asking $5200 for it, which was the price from Van's when I bought it, but will consider reasonable offers. The current price at Van's was $5800 the last time I checked. I also have a lot of miscellaneous items - instruments, elevator electric trim kit, wet vacuum pump, air/oil separator, empennage fairing, and probably a few other small things lying around. Please call or email if you need any of these. Do not archive. Jim Hasper 615-483-0306