Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:13 AM - Fuel System PIAs (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
2. 12:45 AM - Re: Fuel System PIAs (Dan Checkoway)
3. 03:43 AM - Re: Fuel System PIAs (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
4. 01:10 PM - Sun (Wheeler North)
5. 01:29 PM - fuel system PIAs (Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com)
6. 04:00 PM - Starting Washers and Spacers (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
7. 05:12 PM - Re: Starting Washers and Spacers (bertrv6@highstream.net)
8. 05:34 PM - ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC (bertrv6@highstream.net)
9. 06:44 PM - Alternate cowl fasteners (Larygagnon@aol.com)
10. 06:52 PM - Re: Starting Washers and Spacers (William Gill)
11. 07:35 PM - Re: Alternate cowl fasteners (Randy Lervold)
12. 07:40 PM - Dynon OAT probe location? (Ed Bundy)
13. 07:49 PM - Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC (Sam Buchanan)
14. 08:04 PM - Re: Dynon OAT probe location? (Ron Lee)
15. 08:41 PM - -6A Engine Mount Clearance (Patrick Kelley)
16. 08:57 PM - Re: Adel clamps on engine bolts (Dan Checkoway)
17. 09:40 PM - Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance (Sportypilot)
18. 10:12 PM - Re: Dynon OAT probe location? (Jeff Point)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fuel System PIAs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
I've been fighting with finalizing my fuel lines firewall forward and having
a tough time of it, I'm sure someone can help so the particulars are:
RV-6A with tricycle gear (motor mount tubes that provide support to the nose
gear mount interfere with certain items in the carburetor area). Mattituck
360 with standard (updraft, ie carburetor) sump. Mattituck installed
Airflow Performance fuel injection (updraft servo that mounts on the bottom
of the sump) with fuel return valve. Issues include:
1) A flexible fire sleeved fuel line runs from the fuel return valve
(mounted right next to the flow divider on top of the engine) straight down
between the right side cylinders through a rubber grommet in the
inter-cylinder baffles. Where it comes out of the inter-cylinder baffles, if
it were to go straight down then around to the servo, it would be right
between the crossover pipe of the exhaust and the side of the sump with
literally no clearance between the two (ie. It would be squeezed between
the exhaust pipe and sump, not a good thing in my book, even with
fire-sleeve). But....if I bend the flexible line so it does a 90 degree
turn out of the inter-cylinder baffle(toward the rear)above the intake
tubes, it looks like a pretty tight bend and I worry about pinching off the
flow. Any ideas?
2) Fuel line to the outlet of the mechanical pump. I bought Van's FWF kit
which contained an elbow fitting that threads into the outlet of the fuel
pump (also contains a tapped hole for the fuel sensor restrictor fitting).
Problem is if the fitting is installed with the elbow pointing down, it
points right in line with one of the motor mount tubes that supports the
nose gear mount, no way the fuel line to the servo will connect to it that
way!! Is there a 45 degree fitting or should I try to turn this one aft and
see if things work that way?
3) Mechanical fuel pump bypass. An A&P friend was looking at my AFP fuel
system and the pump they provide and seemed to think I need to tee the fuel
line around the mechanical pump with a check valve so as not to damage the
mechanical pump when the electric pump is operating. First I've heard of
this but maybe I missed something somewhere. Do I need to make a bypass for
the mechanical pump when using the AFP electric fuel pump or can I just run
the output of the electric pump directly into the mechanical pump?
4) VM1000 flowscan fuel flow sensor. Looks to me like I'm going to end up
mounting it on one of the motor mount tubes with adel clamps and long lines
(~2 to 2.5 feet each) between the servo and sensor and the sensor and flow
divider. I know Don Rivera of AFP recommends this method but I'm wondering
if 4-5 feet of line between the flow divider and servo will cause any
problems? Also has anyone done this any other way (ie mounted the flowscan
sensor between an updraft servo and flow divider in a more efficient manner,
without using long hoses)?
Pictures of your finished and working set-up would be most appreciated, this
thing has really been bugging me! And, come to think of it as has trying to
get the throttle and mixture control cables to hook up, any suggestions here
would also be appreciated as Van's standard (carburetor)control cables
aren't quite right either! Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Pullin my hair out (what's left of it) in Florida
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel System PIAs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> 1) A flexible fire sleeved fuel line runs from the fuel return valve
> (mounted right next to the flow divider on top of the engine) straight
> down
> between the right side cylinders through a rubber grommet in the
> inter-cylinder baffles. Where it comes out of the inter-cylinder baffles,
> if
> it were to go straight down then around to the servo, it would be right
> between the crossover pipe of the exhaust and the side of the sump with
> literally no clearance between the two (ie. It would be squeezed between
> the exhaust pipe and sump, not a good thing in my book, even with
> fire-sleeve). But....if I bend the flexible line so it does a 90 degree
> turn out of the inter-cylinder baffle(toward the rear)above the intake
> tubes, it looks like a pretty tight bend and I worry about pinching off
> the
> flow. Any ideas?
I can speak to this item, at least. I ran my purge return hose straight aft
through rear baffle wall, then to the connection on the lower firewall.
Photos here: http://www.rvproject.com/20031101.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1042 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel System PIAs |
In a message dated 08/22/2006 2:15:02 AM Central Daylight Time,
dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net writes:
2) Fuel line to the outlet of the mechanical pump. I bought Van's FWF kit
which contained an elbow fitting that threads into the outlet of the fuel
pump (also contains a tapped hole for the fuel sensor restrictor fitting).
Problem is if the fitting is installed with the elbow pointing down, it
points right in line with one of the motor mount tubes that supports the
nose gear mount, no way the fuel line to the servo will connect to it that
way!! Is there a 45 degree fitting or should I try to turn this one aft and
see if things work that way?
>>>>
You might not want to replace that new fuel pump, but these pumps are
available with the inlet/outlet locations reversed. Since mine was old anyway,
I did
the following at the suggestion of another builder:
http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5457
Perhaps the pump could be exchanged? Really slick workaround for carbureted
nosedraggers...
Mark
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Mike,
just had a chat with the Trio boys, rev three (climb to altitude) is awesome
but the altitude set only has screen data for numerical entries. They are
now making a special one for you with the word "sun" encoded for to fly at
max altitude attainable.
W
PS, if you call them make sure that you tell Chuck that Jerry is right.
Message 5
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| Subject: | fuel system PIAs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com
Dean:
I have a similar set up as yours, but on a 7A (Aerosport power IO-360B1B
(vertical induction, standard sump, AFP fuel injection with purge).
With respect to your question #1, I believe you are concerned with the fuel
supply line between the servo and purge valve, and NOT the fuel return line
that Dan has indicated in his reply, correct?
>From memory, I believe I was able to make the tight turn under the
inter-cyclinder baffle with no kinking - I certainly dont remember any
concerns about being too close to the exhaust. I hope to go to the hangar
this evening and I will double check and get back to you. Not sure if the
engine mount is different between the 6A and 7A. If so, that may explain
why you are having this difficulty while I did not.
Cant speak on the fuel pump issue - Its my understanding that people are
plumbing the AFP boost pump in series with the engine fuel pump. If thats
not the case, somebody get on my case in a hurry.
regards,
Erich Weaver
Message 6
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| Subject: | Starting Washers and Spacers |
I just put my control sticks back in today and came up with a slick way of
getting those tiny little washers in place while I got the bolts thru them.
This would apply to the aileron hinges too.
Just take an AN-3 bolt (or hardware store 10-32 bolt) that has enough
unthreaded length and cut it to the dimension of the inside of where the washers
go. This makes a spacer to hold everything on while you slide it all into
place. In the case of the control sticks on my RV-7A that length is 9/16 inch.
Just slide the stack of washer, rod end, washer (which should add up to the
length of the spacer) in until you see the spacer through the hole and push
the bolt in, which pushes the spacer out. Then use the same spacer again on
the other side.
I'm sure I'm not the first to stumble on to this trick, but it sure worked
better using needle nose pliers, duct tape, safety wire, and all the other
things I've tried before.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Starting Washers and Spacers |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting Hopperdhh@aol.com:
>
> I just put my control sticks back in today and came up with a slick way of
> getting those tiny little washers in place while I got the bolts thru them.
> This would apply to the aileron hinges too.
>
> Just take an AN-3 bolt (or hardware store 10-32 bolt) that has enough
> unthreaded length and cut it to the dimension of the inside of where the
> washers
> go. This makes a spacer to hold everything on while you slide it all into
> place. In the case of the control sticks on my RV-7A that length is 9/16
> inch.
>
> Just slide the stack of washer, rod end, washer (which should add up to the
> length of the spacer) in until you see the spacer through the hole and push
> the bolt in, which pushes the spacer out. Then use the same spacer again on
> the other side.
>
> I'm sure I'm not the first to stumble on to this trick, but it sure worked
> better using needle nose pliers, duct tape, safety wire, and all the other
> things I've tried before.
>
> Regards,
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
>
> Dan: ood Idea. I did used regular masking tape, to hold washer,just
touching the shaft of the bolt, then push the bolt thru, and gently pull
]the tape off.. any how is a pain either way..some told me they used
regular 3m? glue??
Bert
rv6a
Message 8
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| Subject: | ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
HI; I AM PLANNING TO BUY THE ALTRAC' UNIT...HOPE IT IS EASIER TO INSTALL
THAN THE NAV AID...ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A BETTER INSTALLATION/
PRO'S AND CON'S /
THANKS
BERT RV6A
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 9
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| Subject: | Alternate cowl fasteners |
A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing the
upper cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch forward of the
firewall and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I end up using. Is
.040 enough? Three inches to close? I used the hinge method on my first
project and found the reduced size pin allows the cowl to lift slightly in flight.
Thanks in advance for any input.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 N6LG 0360/Slider
RV6A 0360/Tip-up 80%
Message 10
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| Subject: | Starting Washers and Spacers |
Great idea Dan.thanks.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Hopperdhh@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 5:59 PM
Subject: RV-List: Starting Washers and Spacers
I just put my control sticks back in today and came up with a slick way
of getting those tiny little washers in place while I got the bolts thru
them. This would apply to the aileron hinges too.
Just take an AN-3 bolt (or hardware store 10-32 bolt) that has enough
unthreaded length and cut it to the dimension of the inside of where the
washers go. This makes a spacer to hold everything on while you slide
it all into place. In the case of the control sticks on my RV-7A that
length is 9/16 inch.
Just slide the stack of washer, rod end, washer (which should add up to
the length of the spacer) in until you see the spacer through the hole
and push the bolt in, which pushes the spacer out. Then use the same
spacer again on the other side.
I'm sure I'm not the first to stumble on to this trick, but it sure
worked better using needle nose pliers, duct tape, safety wire, and all
the other things I've tried before.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate cowl fasteners |
Having done two installations now I recommend you use .063" aluminum
instead of .040.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Larygagnon@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 6:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Alternate cowl fasteners
A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing
the upper cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch
forward of the firewall and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I
end up using. Is .040 enough? Three inches to close? I used the hinge
method on my first project and found the reduced size pin allows the
cowl to lift slightly in flight. Thanks in advance for any input.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 N6LG 0360/Slider
RV6A 0360/Tip-up 80%
Message 12
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| Subject: | Dynon OAT probe location? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
I've finally decided to add a remote compass to my Dynon EFIS, and while
I've seen several great ideas for mounting the compass, where do I locate
that huge OAT probe? I'd prefer to not have that thing hanging out in the
wind, but I'm not sure what to do with it.
I'm planning on mounting the compass behind the baggage wall near the top in
a 6A, any ideas are greatly appreciated.
Ed Bundy
--
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
> HI; I AM PLANNING TO BUY THE ALTRAC' UNIT...HOPE IT IS EASIER TO INSTALL
> THAN THE NAV AID...ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A BETTER INSTALLATION/
>
> PRO'S AND CON'S /
>
> THANKS
>
> BERT RV6A
Here ya go, Bert:
http://thervjournal.com/altrak.htm
The AlTrak is a good unit. However, for a system with more features
check out the EZ-1 and EZ-2 pitch autopilots from Trio:
http://thervjournal.com/EZ-2.htm
Whichever system you use, you will be spoiled very quickly! :-)
Sam Buchanan
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon OAT probe location? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee <ronlee@pcisys.net>
At 08:40 PM 8/22/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
>
>I've finally decided to add a remote compass to my Dynon EFIS, and while
>I've seen several great ideas for mounting the compass, where do I locate
>that huge OAT probe? I'd prefer to not have that thing hanging out in the
>wind, but I'm not sure what to do with it.
>
>I'm planning on mounting the compass behind the baggage wall near the top in
>a 6A, any ideas are greatly appreciated.
This topic was discussed in general a few weeks ago. I would search the
archives for "OAT" or similar
Ron Lee
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | -6A Engine Mount Clearance |
I've installed my engine mount on the firewall and attached the gear leg.
The problem is, with the bolt head closest to the firewall, it touches the
firewall. The other way around, I can't get the nut in there; it's too
thick. Have any of you -6A, -7A, or -9A builders run into this? If so,
what was the solution? Spacers between the mount and firewall?
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - In the hanger and wheels installed (not final)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Adel clamps on engine bolts |
FWIW, I used a unibit and enlarged a few MS21919 holes to 1/4". Same
thing, mounted 'em on a few of the bolts around the sump. Hasn't fallen
out of the sky yet.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1042 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: Geoff Evans
To: RV List
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:29 PM
Subject: RV-List: Adel clamps on engine bolts
Standard Adel clamps have a hole that's only big enough for an AN3
bolt, but I need to install some clamps to hold wiring in/around the
engine using the AN4 case/sump bolts.
Are there special clamps with a 1/4" hole in them, or can I just
enlarge the hole in a standard clamp?
Thanks.
-Geoff
RV-8
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance |
knock a dent /drill a hole in the firewall if its for the front gear
leg, the firewall forward kit comes with a button to fill that new void
you just made.. I just dented mine.. didn't go through the ss..
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Kelley
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:40 PM
Subject: RV-List: -6A Engine Mount Clearance
I've installed my engine mount on the firewall and attached the gear
leg. The problem is, with the bolt head closest to the firewall, it
touches the firewall. The other way around, I can't get the nut in
there; it's too thick. Have any of you -6A, -7A, or -9A builders run
into this? If so, what was the solution? Spacers between the mount and
firewall?
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - In the hanger and wheels installed (not
final)
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon OAT probe location? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/Dynon.htm
As for the OAT probe, I put mine in the fairing between the lower HS and
the fuse. I don't have a pic but it is easy to figure out.
Jeff Point
RV-6 flying
RV-8 preview plans
Milwaukee
>
>
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