---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 08/22/06: 18 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:13 AM - Fuel System PIAs (DEAN PSIROPOULOS) 2. 12:45 AM - Re: Fuel System PIAs (Dan Checkoway) 3. 03:43 AM - Re: Fuel System PIAs (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 4. 01:10 PM - Sun (Wheeler North) 5. 01:29 PM - fuel system PIAs (Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com) 6. 04:00 PM - Starting Washers and Spacers (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 7. 05:12 PM - Re: Starting Washers and Spacers (bertrv6@highstream.net) 8. 05:34 PM - ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC (bertrv6@highstream.net) 9. 06:44 PM - Alternate cowl fasteners (Larygagnon@aol.com) 10. 06:52 PM - Re: Starting Washers and Spacers (William Gill) 11. 07:35 PM - Re: Alternate cowl fasteners (Randy Lervold) 12. 07:40 PM - Dynon OAT probe location? (Ed Bundy) 13. 07:49 PM - Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC (Sam Buchanan) 14. 08:04 PM - Re: Dynon OAT probe location? (Ron Lee) 15. 08:41 PM - -6A Engine Mount Clearance (Patrick Kelley) 16. 08:57 PM - Re: Adel clamps on engine bolts (Dan Checkoway) 17. 09:40 PM - Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance (Sportypilot) 18. 10:12 PM - Re: Dynon OAT probe location? (Jeff Point) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:13:13 AM PST US From: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" Subject: RV-List: Fuel System PIAs --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" I've been fighting with finalizing my fuel lines firewall forward and having a tough time of it, I'm sure someone can help so the particulars are: RV-6A with tricycle gear (motor mount tubes that provide support to the nose gear mount interfere with certain items in the carburetor area). Mattituck 360 with standard (updraft, ie carburetor) sump. Mattituck installed Airflow Performance fuel injection (updraft servo that mounts on the bottom of the sump) with fuel return valve. Issues include: 1) A flexible fire sleeved fuel line runs from the fuel return valve (mounted right next to the flow divider on top of the engine) straight down between the right side cylinders through a rubber grommet in the inter-cylinder baffles. Where it comes out of the inter-cylinder baffles, if it were to go straight down then around to the servo, it would be right between the crossover pipe of the exhaust and the side of the sump with literally no clearance between the two (ie. It would be squeezed between the exhaust pipe and sump, not a good thing in my book, even with fire-sleeve). But....if I bend the flexible line so it does a 90 degree turn out of the inter-cylinder baffle(toward the rear)above the intake tubes, it looks like a pretty tight bend and I worry about pinching off the flow. Any ideas? 2) Fuel line to the outlet of the mechanical pump. I bought Van's FWF kit which contained an elbow fitting that threads into the outlet of the fuel pump (also contains a tapped hole for the fuel sensor restrictor fitting). Problem is if the fitting is installed with the elbow pointing down, it points right in line with one of the motor mount tubes that supports the nose gear mount, no way the fuel line to the servo will connect to it that way!! Is there a 45 degree fitting or should I try to turn this one aft and see if things work that way? 3) Mechanical fuel pump bypass. An A&P friend was looking at my AFP fuel system and the pump they provide and seemed to think I need to tee the fuel line around the mechanical pump with a check valve so as not to damage the mechanical pump when the electric pump is operating. First I've heard of this but maybe I missed something somewhere. Do I need to make a bypass for the mechanical pump when using the AFP electric fuel pump or can I just run the output of the electric pump directly into the mechanical pump? 4) VM1000 flowscan fuel flow sensor. Looks to me like I'm going to end up mounting it on one of the motor mount tubes with adel clamps and long lines (~2 to 2.5 feet each) between the servo and sensor and the sensor and flow divider. I know Don Rivera of AFP recommends this method but I'm wondering if 4-5 feet of line between the flow divider and servo will cause any problems? Also has anyone done this any other way (ie mounted the flowscan sensor between an updraft servo and flow divider in a more efficient manner, without using long hoses)? Pictures of your finished and working set-up would be most appreciated, this thing has really been bugging me! And, come to think of it as has trying to get the throttle and mixture control cables to hook up, any suggestions here would also be appreciated as Van's standard (carburetor)control cables aren't quite right either! Thanks. Dean Psiropoulos RV-6A N197DM Pullin my hair out (what's left of it) in Florida ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 12:45:25 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel System PIAs --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > 1) A flexible fire sleeved fuel line runs from the fuel return valve > (mounted right next to the flow divider on top of the engine) straight > down > between the right side cylinders through a rubber grommet in the > inter-cylinder baffles. Where it comes out of the inter-cylinder baffles, > if > it were to go straight down then around to the servo, it would be right > between the crossover pipe of the exhaust and the side of the sump with > literally no clearance between the two (ie. It would be squeezed between > the exhaust pipe and sump, not a good thing in my book, even with > fire-sleeve). But....if I bend the flexible line so it does a 90 degree > turn out of the inter-cylinder baffle(toward the rear)above the intake > tubes, it looks like a pretty tight bend and I worry about pinching off > the > flow. Any ideas? I can speak to this item, at least. I ran my purge return hose straight aft through rear baffle wall, then to the connection on the lower firewall. Photos here: http://www.rvproject.com/20031101.html )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1042 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:43:41 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel System PIAs In a message dated 08/22/2006 2:15:02 AM Central Daylight Time, dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net writes: 2) Fuel line to the outlet of the mechanical pump. I bought Van's FWF kit which contained an elbow fitting that threads into the outlet of the fuel pump (also contains a tapped hole for the fuel sensor restrictor fitting). Problem is if the fitting is installed with the elbow pointing down, it points right in line with one of the motor mount tubes that supports the nose gear mount, no way the fuel line to the servo will connect to it that way!! Is there a 45 degree fitting or should I try to turn this one aft and see if things work that way? >>>> You might not want to replace that new fuel pump, but these pumps are available with the inlet/outlet locations reversed. Since mine was old anyway, I did the following at the suggestion of another builder: http://websites.expercraft.com/n51pw/index.php?q=log_entry&log_id=5457 Perhaps the pump could be exchanged? Really slick workaround for carbureted nosedraggers... Mark ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 01:10:57 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: Sun --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North Mike, just had a chat with the Trio boys, rev three (climb to altitude) is awesome but the altitude set only has screen data for numerical entries. They are now making a special one for you with the word "sun" encoded for to fly at max altitude attainable. W PS, if you call them make sure that you tell Chuck that Jerry is right. ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 01:29:02 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: fuel system PIAs From: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com --> RV-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com Dean: I have a similar set up as yours, but on a 7A (Aerosport power IO-360B1B (vertical induction, standard sump, AFP fuel injection with purge). With respect to your question #1, I believe you are concerned with the fuel supply line between the servo and purge valve, and NOT the fuel return line that Dan has indicated in his reply, correct? >From memory, I believe I was able to make the tight turn under the inter-cyclinder baffle with no kinking - I certainly dont remember any concerns about being too close to the exhaust. I hope to go to the hangar this evening and I will double check and get back to you. Not sure if the engine mount is different between the 6A and 7A. If so, that may explain why you are having this difficulty while I did not. Cant speak on the fuel pump issue - Its my understanding that people are plumbing the AFP boost pump in series with the engine fuel pump. If thats not the case, somebody get on my case in a hurry. regards, Erich Weaver ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 04:00:25 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Starting Washers and Spacers I just put my control sticks back in today and came up with a slick way of getting those tiny little washers in place while I got the bolts thru them. This would apply to the aileron hinges too. Just take an AN-3 bolt (or hardware store 10-32 bolt) that has enough unthreaded length and cut it to the dimension of the inside of where the washers go. This makes a spacer to hold everything on while you slide it all into place. In the case of the control sticks on my RV-7A that length is 9/16 inch. Just slide the stack of washer, rod end, washer (which should add up to the length of the spacer) in until you see the spacer through the hole and push the bolt in, which pushes the spacer out. Then use the same spacer again on the other side. I'm sure I'm not the first to stumble on to this trick, but it sure worked better using needle nose pliers, duct tape, safety wire, and all the other things I've tried before. Regards, Dan Hopper RV-7A ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 05:12:30 PM PST US From: bertrv6@highstream.net Subject: Re: RV-List: Starting Washers and Spacers --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net Quoting Hopperdhh@aol.com: > > I just put my control sticks back in today and came up with a slick way of > getting those tiny little washers in place while I got the bolts thru them. > This would apply to the aileron hinges too. > > Just take an AN-3 bolt (or hardware store 10-32 bolt) that has enough > unthreaded length and cut it to the dimension of the inside of where the > washers > go. This makes a spacer to hold everything on while you slide it all into > place. In the case of the control sticks on my RV-7A that length is 9/16 > inch. > > Just slide the stack of washer, rod end, washer (which should add up to the > length of the spacer) in until you see the spacer through the hole and push > the bolt in, which pushes the spacer out. Then use the same spacer again on > the other side. > > I'm sure I'm not the first to stumble on to this trick, but it sure worked > better using needle nose pliers, duct tape, safety wire, and all the other > things I've tried before. > > Regards, > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A > > Dan: ood Idea. I did used regular masking tape, to hold washer,just touching the shaft of the bolt, then push the bolt thru, and gently pull ]the tape off.. any how is a pain either way..some told me they used regular 3m? glue?? Bert rv6a ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 05:34:43 PM PST US From: bertrv6@highstream.net Subject: RV-List: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net HI; I AM PLANNING TO BUY THE ALTRAC' UNIT...HOPE IT IS EASIER TO INSTALL THAN THE NAV AID...ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A BETTER INSTALLATION/ PRO'S AND CON'S / THANKS BERT RV6A DO NOT ARCHIVE ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 06:44:24 PM PST US From: Larygagnon@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Alternate cowl fasteners A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing the upper cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch forward of the firewall and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I end up using. Is .040 enough? Three inches to close? I used the hinge method on my first project and found the reduced size pin allows the cowl to lift slightly in flight. Thanks in advance for any input. Larry Gagnon RV6 N6LG 0360/Slider RV6A 0360/Tip-up 80% ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 06:52:49 PM PST US From: "William Gill" Subject: RE: RV-List: Starting Washers and Spacers Great idea Dan.thanks. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 5:59 PM Subject: RV-List: Starting Washers and Spacers I just put my control sticks back in today and came up with a slick way of getting those tiny little washers in place while I got the bolts thru them. This would apply to the aileron hinges too. Just take an AN-3 bolt (or hardware store 10-32 bolt) that has enough unthreaded length and cut it to the dimension of the inside of where the washers go. This makes a spacer to hold everything on while you slide it all into place. In the case of the control sticks on my RV-7A that length is 9/16 inch. Just slide the stack of washer, rod end, washer (which should add up to the length of the spacer) in until you see the spacer through the hole and push the bolt in, which pushes the spacer out. Then use the same spacer again on the other side. I'm sure I'm not the first to stumble on to this trick, but it sure worked better using needle nose pliers, duct tape, safety wire, and all the other things I've tried before. Regards, Dan Hopper RV-7A ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:35:32 PM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate cowl fasteners Having done two installations now I recommend you use .063" aluminum instead of .040. Randy Lervold www.rv-3.com www.rv-8.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Larygagnon@aol.com To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 6:43 PM Subject: RV-List: Alternate cowl fasteners A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing the upper cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch forward of the firewall and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I end up using. Is .040 enough? Three inches to close? I used the hinge method on my first project and found the reduced size pin allows the cowl to lift slightly in flight. Thanks in advance for any input. Larry Gagnon RV6 N6LG 0360/Slider RV6A 0360/Tip-up 80% ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 07:40:34 PM PST US From: "Ed Bundy" Subject: RV-List: Dynon OAT probe location? --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" I've finally decided to add a remote compass to my Dynon EFIS, and while I've seen several great ideas for mounting the compass, where do I locate that huge OAT probe? I'd prefer to not have that thing hanging out in the wind, but I'm not sure what to do with it. I'm planning on mounting the compass behind the baggage wall near the top in a 6A, any ideas are greatly appreciated. Ed Bundy -- ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 07:49:09 PM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan bertrv6@highstream.net wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net > HI; I AM PLANNING TO BUY THE ALTRAC' UNIT...HOPE IT IS EASIER TO INSTALL > THAN THE NAV AID...ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A BETTER INSTALLATION/ > > PRO'S AND CON'S / > > THANKS > > BERT RV6A Here ya go, Bert: http://thervjournal.com/altrak.htm The AlTrak is a good unit. However, for a system with more features check out the EZ-1 and EZ-2 pitch autopilots from Trio: http://thervjournal.com/EZ-2.htm Whichever system you use, you will be spoiled very quickly! :-) Sam Buchanan ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 08:04:03 PM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon OAT probe location? --> RV-List message posted by: Ron Lee At 08:40 PM 8/22/2006, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" > >I've finally decided to add a remote compass to my Dynon EFIS, and while >I've seen several great ideas for mounting the compass, where do I locate >that huge OAT probe? I'd prefer to not have that thing hanging out in the >wind, but I'm not sure what to do with it. > >I'm planning on mounting the compass behind the baggage wall near the top in >a 6A, any ideas are greatly appreciated. This topic was discussed in general a few weeks ago. I would search the archives for "OAT" or similar Ron Lee do not archive ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 08:41:24 PM PST US From: "Patrick Kelley" Subject: RV-List: -6A Engine Mount Clearance I've installed my engine mount on the firewall and attached the gear leg. The problem is, with the bolt head closest to the firewall, it touches the firewall. The other way around, I can't get the nut in there; it's too thick. Have any of you -6A, -7A, or -9A builders run into this? If so, what was the solution? Spacers between the mount and firewall? Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - In the hanger and wheels installed (not final) ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 08:57:30 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Adel clamps on engine bolts FWIW, I used a unibit and enlarged a few MS21919 holes to 1/4". Same thing, mounted 'em on a few of the bolts around the sump. Hasn't fallen out of the sky yet. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D (1042 hours) http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: Geoff Evans To: RV List Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:29 PM Subject: RV-List: Adel clamps on engine bolts Standard Adel clamps have a hole that's only big enough for an AN3 bolt, but I need to install some clamps to hold wiring in/around the engine using the AN4 case/sump bolts. Are there special clamps with a 1/4" hole in them, or can I just enlarge the hole in a standard clamp? Thanks. -Geoff RV-8 ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----- Get your email and more, right on the new Yahoo.com ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 09:40:47 PM PST US From: "Sportypilot" Subject: Re: RV-List: -6A Engine Mount Clearance knock a dent /drill a hole in the firewall if its for the front gear leg, the firewall forward kit comes with a button to fill that new void you just made.. I just dented mine.. didn't go through the ss.. ----- Original Message ----- From: Patrick Kelley To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:40 PM Subject: RV-List: -6A Engine Mount Clearance I've installed my engine mount on the firewall and attached the gear leg. The problem is, with the bolt head closest to the firewall, it touches the firewall. The other way around, I can't get the nut in there; it's too thick. Have any of you -6A, -7A, or -9A builders run into this? If so, what was the solution? Spacers between the mount and firewall? Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - In the hanger and wheels installed (not final) ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 10:12:43 PM PST US From: Jeff Point Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon OAT probe location? --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/Dynon.htm As for the OAT probe, I put mine in the fairing between the lower HS and the fuse. I don't have a pic but it is easy to figure out. Jeff Point RV-6 flying RV-8 preview plans Milwaukee > > >