Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:42 AM - Re: Alternate cowl fasteners (Kyle Boatright)
2. 03:53 AM - Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
3. 05:00 AM - Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 05:07 AM - Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC (Dana Overall)
5. 07:11 AM - Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC (Jeff Dowling)
6. 07:12 AM - Re: Alternate cowl fasteners (Jeff Dowling)
7. 07:34 AM - Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
8. 07:47 AM - Re: Dynon OAT probe location? (Phil Birkelbach)
9. 08:02 AM - Re: Alternate cowl fasteners (Tim Bryan)
10. 08:22 AM - RV7 Replacement Flap Push Rod (Response) (Darrell Reiley)
11. 08:59 AM - Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance (bertrv6@highstream.net)
12. 09:16 AM - Re: RV7 Replacement Flap Push Rod (Response) (Dan Checkoway)
13. 10:27 AM - Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance (scott bilinski)
14. 10:34 AM - Re: Alternate cowl fasteners (Rick Galati)
15. 10:53 AM - O-360 Kit for Sale (Dana Overall)
16. 12:19 PM - Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance (JEllis9847@aol.com)
17. 12:56 PM - Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance (Gerry Filby)
18. 02:18 PM - insufficient seat recline (Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com)
19. 03:31 PM - Re:Blue Mountain Autopilot (Clyde Rosenvall)
20. 03:56 PM - Anyone Ever Use a Smoke Hood? (Magazine Feedback) (Cory Emberson)
21. 06:01 PM - Re: insufficient seat recline (Tim Bryan)
22. 06:06 PM - Price on Altrak unit (bertrv6@highstream.net)
23. 06:15 PM - Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? (Jack Lockamy)
24. 06:30 PM - RV-6 Manual Flaps control rod length (Tim Bryan)
25. 07:03 PM - Re: RV-6 Manual Flaps control rod length (Kyle Boatright)
26. 07:04 PM - Re: Price on Altrak unit (Terry Watson)
27. 07:04 PM - Re: Price on Altrak unit (PJ Seipel)
28. 07:07 PM - Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance (Patrick Kelley)
29. 07:07 PM - Re: RV7 Replacement Flap Push Rod (Response) (Larry Bowen)
30. 07:21 PM - Re: RV-7 or RV-9 (Ron Lee)
31. 07:44 PM - Re: Price on Altrak unit (N777TY)
32. 11:11 PM - Re: insufficient seat recline (Jerry Springer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate cowl fasteners |
I have 10 #6 screws across the top cowl at the firewall and the
installation has held up very well over 5+ years and 400+ hours. I used
a 0.063 strip, but that's what I had at the time. 0.040 should be fine.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Larygagnon@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 9:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Alternate cowl fasteners
A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing
the upper cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch
forward of the firewall and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I
end up using. Is .040 enough? Three inches to close? I used the hinge
method on my first project and found the reduced size pin allows the
cowl to lift slightly in flight. Thanks in advance for any input.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 N6LG 0360/Slider
RV6A 0360/Tip-up 80%
Message 2
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| Subject: | ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Bert the installation will be exactly the same for the servo and it is a
good unit. Got many hours on one.
Like Sam said, for a more robust feature set and similar price, I
recommend the Trio though. The feature set will compliment both your
altitude needs, and resale value. Buyers these days are looking for
features big time.
Best,
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
bertrv6@highstream.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 8:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
HI; I AM PLANNING TO BUY THE ALTRAC' UNIT...HOPE IT IS EASIER TO
INSTALL
THAN THE NAV AID...ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A BETTER INSTALLATION/
PRO'S AND CON'S /
THANKS
BERT RV6A
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance |
Patrick,
I would say let it touch, or force the firewall back a little if its only
1/16 inch or so.
You will want to make a hole to enable you to get the bolt out should you
ever need to remove the gear leg. Why would you need to remove the gear le
g?
Sometimes the hole becomes sloppy (elongates), or you may bend the gear leg
like I did! The bolt on the -7 is inserted from the back side of the firew
all
through this hole and the all-metal locknut is installed on the front (top)
side.
My plans say a 3/4 inch hole one place and a 1 inch hole another place. Th
e
plug that came with my kit was 7/8, I believe. Anyway, it was a poor fit
into the 3/4 inch hole, but I got it in there.
What I did the second time around was to sight down the bolt hole to locate
the firewall hole, then remove the mount and used a unibit to drill the hol
e.
You can get any size plug at hardware stores, or in the plumbing departmen
t
of the big stores.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 8/22/2006 11:43:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
webmaster@flion.com writes:
I=99ve installed my engine mount on the firewall and attached the gea
r leg.
The problem is, with the bolt head closest to the firewall, it touches the
firewall. The other way around, I can=99t get the nut in there; it
=99s too thick.
Have any of you -6A, -7A, or -9A builders run into this? If so, what was
the solution? Spacers between the mount and firewall?
Patrick Kelley =93 RV-6A =93 In the hanger and wheels installed
(not final)
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
UPS is delivering my Trio EZ Pilot Autopilot and EZ-2 altitude hold unit
Thursday. I am planning on jumping right in on the install and will update
the install daily on my website.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC
>Date: Tue, 22 Aug 2006 21:48:34 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
>>HI; I AM PLANNING TO BUY THE ALTRAC' UNIT...HOPE IT IS EASIER TO INSTALL
>>THAN THE NAV AID...ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A BETTER INSTALLATION/
>>
>>PRO'S AND CON'S /
>>
>> THANKS
>>
>>BERT RV6A
>
>
>Here ya go, Bert:
>
>http://thervjournal.com/altrak.htm
>
>The AlTrak is a good unit. However, for a system with more features check
>out the EZ-1 and EZ-2 pitch autopilots from Trio:
>
>http://thervjournal.com/EZ-2.htm
>
>Whichever system you use, you will be spoiled very quickly! :-)
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Check the weather nationwide with MSN Search: Try it now!
http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=weather&FORM=WLMTAG
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Installs easily. I recommend drilling out the threaded portions on the
servo and using longer bolts with locknuts. The plans call for putting the
bolts directly into the servo with no locking means. I called the company
and they said to use loctite. If this thing comes loose, your in deep
doodoo. It will take about an extra minute to ensure a much safer
installation.
My dimmer resistor was also bad so I still have only one setting. Its way
too bright at night so make sure you put some means of dimming.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
300+ hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <bertrv6@highstream.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 7:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> HI; I AM PLANNING TO BUY THE ALTRAC' UNIT...HOPE IT IS EASIER TO INSTALL
> THAN THE NAV AID...ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A BETTER INSTALLATION/
>
> PRO'S AND CON'S /
>
> THANKS
>
> BERT RV6A
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate cowl fasteners |
I copied the installation method shown in the plans with the camlocs.
Great product. I used 063 but trimmed it so it had a saw tooth shape.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
295 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: Larygagnon@aol.com
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 8:43 PM
Subject: RV-List: Alternate cowl fasteners
A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing
the upper cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch
forward of the firewall and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I
end up using. Is .040 enough? Three inches to close? I used the hinge
method on my first project and found the reduced size pin allows the
cowl to lift slightly in flight. Thanks in advance for any input.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 N6LG 0360/Slider
RV6A 0360/Tip-up 80%
Message 7
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| Subject: | ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I permanently dimmed mine by installing a resistor on the LED. They have
a spec and method available I just cant remember exactly what it was.
Easy to do. It was definitely too bright at night.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
<shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
Installs easily. I recommend drilling out the threaded portions on the
servo and using longer bolts with locknuts. The plans call for putting
the
bolts directly into the servo with no locking means. I called the
company
and they said to use loctite. If this thing comes loose, your in deep
doodoo. It will take about an extra minute to ensure a much safer
installation.
My dimmer resistor was also bad so I still have only one setting. Its
way
too bright at night so make sure you put some means of dimming.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
300+ hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <bertrv6@highstream.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 7:34 PM
Subject: RV-List: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> HI; I AM PLANNING TO BUY THE ALTRAC' UNIT...HOPE IT IS EASIER TO
INSTALL
> THAN THE NAV AID...ANY SUGGESTIONS FOR A BETTER INSTALLATION/
>
> PRO'S AND CON'S /
>
> THANKS
>
> BERT RV6A
>
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon OAT probe location? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Phil Birkelbach <phil@petrasoft.net>
I don't remember how long that wire was that came with the probe but you
might be able to reach the bulkhead just forward of the VS and put it in
that bulkhead so that it's facing aft under the emp fairing. I have
mine there and it works okay.
Godspeed,
Phil Birkelbach - Houston Texas
RV-7 N727WB
http://www.myrv7.com
Ed Bundy wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <ebundy@speedyquick.net>
>
> I've finally decided to add a remote compass to my Dynon EFIS, and while
> I've seen several great ideas for mounting the compass, where do I locate
> that huge OAT probe? I'd prefer to not have that thing hanging out in the
> wind, but I'm not sure what to do with it.
>
> I'm planning on mounting the compass behind the baggage wall near the top in
> a 6A, any ideas are greatly appreciated.
>
> Ed Bundy
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate cowl fasteners |
>I used 063 but trimmed it so it had a saw tooth shape.<
I second the trimming part. If you don't trim it back between the fasten
ers
the metal will tend to have an upward curve to it causing the cowl to si
t
up higher.
Tim, Rv-6
-------Original Message-------
From: Jeff Dowling
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternate cowl fasteners
I copied the installation method shown in the plans with the camlocs. Gr
eat
product. I used 063 but trimmed it so it had a saw tooth shape.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
295 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV7 Replacement Flap Push Rod (Response) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Van's Response:
Darrell,
Some of our customers have chosen to purchase the
RV-9 flap push rods to use on their RV-6/7/8 aircraft,
part number VA-256 $12.00 each -threaded hex rod. In
order to use those you would have to enlarge the hole
where the pushrod goes thru the fuselage. Also, as
this piece was intended for the RV-9= larger flap, it
will be too long. So when you trim the hex rod down,
you would trim a little off each end. If you trim it
all off one side, you may cut off all the threads.
This modification doesn't hurt anything of course (as
long as the rod is installed correctly), but it isn't
necessary.
We are, of course, always happy to sell more parts!
:)
Jessica V
JUST FYI...
Darrell Reiley
RV7A "Reiley Rocket"
N622DR Reserved
CenTex_RV_Aircraft-owner@yahoogroups.com
__________________________________________________
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting Sportypilot <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>:
> knock a dent /drill a hole in the firewall if its for the front gear leg, the
> firewall forward kit comes with a button to fill that new void you just
> made.. I just dented mine.. didn't go through the ss..
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Patrick Kelley
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:40 PM
> Subject: RV-List: -6A Engine Mount Clearance
>
>
> I've installed my engine mount on the firewall and attached the gear leg.
> The problem is, with the bolt head closest to the firewall, it touches the
> firewall. The other way around, I can't get the nut in there; it's too
> thick. Have any of you -6A, -7A, or -9A builders run into this? If so, what
> was the solution? Spacers between the mount and firewall?
>
>
> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - In the hanger and wheels installed (not final)
>
>
> I was able to squeeze the bolt,and use a thinner nut.. it touches
the fire wall, and had make a dent...
As mentioned by others, the new planes, have a whole for that purpose..
If you are in the building process, and you can reach inside easilly,
I would definte, drill a whole, I can reach a large nut, for the bolt,
and then all you need is a plug that size, or a round piece of steel,
you could seal that whole, maybe 2 small nut-plates and screws?
Bert
rv6a
do not archive
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV7 Replacement Flap Push Rod (Response) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
If you're looking for a more robust flap pushrod, why not just go with
steel, the same dimensions as the aluminum tube that's called out? That way
you don't have to change/enlarge the hole in the fuselage, and weight would
be about the same as the fat hex stock type.
I still have aluminum tapped flap pushrod tubes after more than 1000 hours
and easily as many cycles. No problems. That said, I have a friend with an
RV-8 whose aluminum pushrod failed after about 300 hours. Could have been
improperly tapped...could have been improperly installed (tension on the
pushrod when fully retracted)...I don't know the exact cause. He went to
steel after that. And I know several -6 drivers who went directly to steel
from the get-go.
Sure sounds like YMMV.
I personally have told myself that if one of my flap pushrods fail, I'll
convert to steel. The prospect of goring out that hole in the fuselage any
more, i.e. to accommodate the hex style, is unappealing (to me).
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (1042 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darrell Reiley" <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 8:21 AM
Subject: RV-List: RV7 Replacement Flap Push Rod (Response)
> --> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
> Van's Response:
>
> Darrell,
> Some of our customers have chosen to purchase the
> RV-9 flap push rods to use on their RV-6/7/8 aircraft,
> part number VA-256 $12.00 each -threaded hex rod. In
> order to use those you would have to enlarge the hole
> where the pushrod goes thru the fuselage. Also, as
> this piece was intended for the RV-9= larger flap, it
> will be too long. So when you trim the hex rod down,
> you would trim a little off each end. If you trim it
> all off one side, you may cut off all the threads.
>
> This modification doesn't hurt anything of course (as
> long as the rod is installed correctly), but it isn't
> necessary.
>
> We are, of course, always happy to sell more parts!
> :)
>
> Jessica V
>
> JUST FYI...
>
>
> Darrell Reiley
> RV7A "Reiley Rocket"
> N622DR Reserved
>
> CenTex_RV_Aircraft-owner@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance |
Get a half height nut.
Scott
bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Quoting Sportypilot :
> knock a dent /drill a hole in the firewall if its for the front gear leg, the
> firewall forward kit comes with a button to fill that new void you just
> made.. I just dented mine.. didn't go through the ss..
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Patrick Kelley
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 10:40 PM
> Subject: RV-List: -6A Engine Mount Clearance
>
>
> I've installed my engine mount on the firewall and attached the gear leg.
> The problem is, with the bolt head closest to the firewall, it touches the
> firewall. The other way around, I can't get the nut in there; it's too
> thick. Have any of you -6A, -7A, or -9A builders run into this? If so, what
> was the solution? Spacers between the mount and firewall?
>
>
> Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - In the hanger and wheels installed (not final)
>
>
> I was able to squeeze the bolt,and use a thinner nut.. it touches
the fire wall, and had make a dent...
As mentioned by others, the new planes, have a whole for that purpose..
If you are in the building process, and you can reach inside easilly,
I would definte, drill a whole, I can reach a large nut, for the bolt,
and then all you need is a plug that size, or a round piece of steel,
you could seal that whole, maybe 2 small nut-plates and screws?
Bert
rv6a
do not archive
>
---------------------------------
How low will we go? Check out Yahoo! Messengers low PC-to-Phone call rates.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Alternate cowl fasteners |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Larygagnon(at)aol.com wrote:
> A question for those of you that used an alternate method of securing the upper
cowl. I'm planning a strip of . 040 extending an inch forward of the firewall
and a three inch spacing for whatever fastener I end up using. Is .040
enough? Three inches to close?...........
Larry,
I sheared a width of aluminum off a 4' piece of .050 stock. To maintain adequate
e.d. on the upper cowl screw holes, I believe the width of that strap is going
to come in something greater than one inch. It's more like 2 inches or better.
My strap nests against the radius of the firewall completely around its
overall 4' length and in doing so, the edge of the strap has to be radiused and
trimmed here and there to conform to the radius of the firewall. In doing so,
that edge of the strap will not end up perfectly straight. I suggest you initially
cut your material considerably wider than you anticipate. You can always
trim it back later as required. Your planned material thickness and hole
spacing seem about right to me.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla" 162 Hours
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/6199/firewall7edited40ki7.jpg
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56717#56717
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | O-360 Kit for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
O360-A1A ENGINE/PROP/GOVERNER PACKAGE
I have the following ON HAND and ready for shipment. I can substitute a
solid crank and sell the package for $12,000 or include the Constant Speed
prop and governer and sell is as a constant speed setup for $16,500. To
hold the package until you can get the remaining funds I need $5000.00 with
remainder to ship or $5000.00 deposit, $7000.00 additional to ship engine
with remaining $4500.00 before I ship the prop/gov. Trying to make it so
you don't have to come up with all the money up front.
Cell 859 625-2844 or 859 369-7582 (office)
CRANK- RECONDITIONED
CASE-RECONDITIONED
RODS-RECONDITIONED
CAM-YELLOW TAGGED
CRANK GEAR-NEW
IDLER GEARS-YELLOW TAGGED
LIFTER BODIES-YELLOW TAGGED
HYD. AND SOCKETS-RECONDITIONED
MAGS AND HARNESS- NEW
MAG GEARS-ONE NEW ONE RECONDITIONED
CYLINDERS-O/H YELLOW TAGGED WITH PISTON/PINS/RINGS ALL PARTS NEW
SUMP AND PIPES
ACC. COVER
ROCKER ARMS-RECONDITIONED
PUSH TUBES-NEW
PUSH RODS-RECONDITIONED
STARTER/ALT/FLYWHEEL-NEW
CARB-OVERHAULED YELLOW TAGGED
CYLINDER HOLD DOWN NUTS-NEW
HARDWARE KIT-NEW
BEARINGS-NEW
GASKETS-NEW
HC-C2YK-1BF/F7666A-2 74 INCH PROP-RECONDITIONED
PROP GOVENER-RECONDITIONED
$16,500
NO OIL PUMP OR VALVE COVERS INCLUDED (I can get these for you).
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
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Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance |
Another way to attach the nose strut is with a tapered pin. You will still
need a hole in the firewall if you want to remove the strut for repairs or
replacement in the future.
See:
_http://www.rvwiki.org/index.php?title=Nose_Gear_Strut_
(http://www.rvwiki.org/index.php?title=Nose_Gear_Strut)
This is for a 9-A but I think it is similar to a 6-A.
Jim Ellis
RV9-A, N155T
Flying 12 hours (Yippee!)
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: -6A Engine Mount Clearance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gerry Filby <gerf@gerf.com>
>From the wiki my understanding is that this can help with nose
wheel shimmy induced by movement in this joint. Is this the
same thing at issue with tail dragger main gear shimmy ?
I've heard that the solution is to deflate the main tires to
around 22 lbs to dampen the shimmy. If the source of the
problem is the same, the taper pin might be better solution
than deflating the tires.
g
> Another way to attach the nose strut is with a tapered pin.
> You will still
> need a hole in the firewall if you want to remove the strut for
> repairs or
> replacement in the future.
>
> See:
>
> _http://www.rvwiki.org/index.php?title=Nose_Gear_Strut_
> ( )
>
> This is for a 9-A but I think it is similar to a 6-A.
>
> Jim Ellis
> RV9-A, N155T
> Flying 12 hours (Yippee!)
>
--
__g__
==========================================================
Gerry Filby gerf@gerf.com
Tel: 415 203 9177
----------------------------------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | insufficient seat recline |
--> RV-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com
I am not quite comfortable with the existing maximum seat recline on my -7
A. Its actually more comfortable for me to take out the seat back cushion
and use the bare aluminum frame alone so that I can lean back an extra
couple of inches. Effective, but pretty ugly. Has anyone modified the
crossbar that limits the recline to allow a few more inches ?
thanks
Erich Weaver
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Blue Mountain Autopilot |
Time: 4:21 PM MT
From: clyderosenvall@gmail.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Auto Pilot
I have a new auto pilot that can be used with any Blue Mountain EFIS. It has
been installed in my RV-8 but only on long enough
to test it, mybe 15 minutes. I have the bracketts that I made to install it.
If anyone has a need for it please contact me off line.
rotary RV-8 130 hrs
Thanks; Clyde
Message 20
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| Subject: | Anyone Ever Use a Smoke Hood? (Magazine Feedback) |
Hello all -
I'm finishing up a piece for Aviation Consumer about smoke escape hoods,
and would like to get your experiences, if any, in actually using an
escape hood. Of course, use in an aircraft would be most germane, but if
you've used one to escape a structure fire of any sort, that would also
be very helpful.
My (non-spam) email is: bootless ((at)) earthlink ((dot)) com.
Thanks very much!
best,
Cory Emberson
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: insufficient seat recline |
Erich,
Is moving the pedals forward and then using a more forward seat hinge a g
ood
option? This would give you more incline. Sounds like moving the seat b
ack
brace would be a bigger issue.
Tim
-------Original Message-------
From: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com
Subject: RV-List: insufficient seat recline
--> RV-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com
I am not quite comfortable with the existing maximum seat recline on my
-7
A. Its actually more comfortable for me to take out the seat back cushio
n
and use the bare aluminum frame alone so that I can lean back an extra
couple of inches. Effective, but pretty ugly. Has anyone modified the
crossbar that limits the recline to allow a few more inches ?
thanks
Erich Weaver
==========
==========
==========
==========
==========
Message 22
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| Subject: | Price on Altrak unit |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
Any place besides, well known suppliers, such as Spruce, Wicks,
Van/'s etc/ that have best price on this unit?
I heard about E-bay. but also I have heard, bad things on this.. do not
have any idea how it works, can you loose your money?
Suggestions?
Bert
rv6a
do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? |
Dan,
You are RIGHT ON (as usual I might add....)! This is EXACTLY what the guys
at Van's and others told me: "...a Lycoming 0-320 160HP engine in an
RV-7/7A is NOT under powered and will actually extend your cross-country
range....". Since 95% or better of my flying is for cross-country purposes
and fuel economy is at the top of my list, I chose the 0-320/160HP engine
option.
One last comment I will share from the same engineer at Van's I spoke with
that day. He said, "it has been their experience that an RV-7/7A Lycoming
0-320 160 HP is the BEST engine/airframe combination...". I've flown both a
180 HP RV-7A and my 160 HP model and the only difference I can tell is climb
in the 160 HP airplane is about 200 FPM on average less than the 180 HP.
Oh.. and I burn about .5 to 1.0 gallons less per hour... thus extending my
cross-country range. I fly 4.0-4.5 hour cross country legs and always have
an hour or better reserve when I land.
Sorry Ron... I know you are an advocate for 180-HP or better in the RV-7/7A
but I venture to same more of us live and fly from airports at/near mean sea
level than 7KFT in the mountains... I've flown my RV-7A from airports at
9KFT density altitude... no problem!
Jack Lockamy
RV-7A N174JL 210 hrs
Lycoming 0-320/160HP/Constant Speed
Camarillo, CA
www.jacklockamy.com
do not archive
Message 24
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| Subject: | RV-6 Manual Flaps control rod length |
Hi Listers,
The plans call for the F659 rod to be 3 1/2" long. With this length, my
handle will not go in the top notch of the F658A flap anchor. Has it bee
n
everyones experience the 659 rod needs to be shorter?
Thanks
Tim
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RV-6 Manual Flaps control rod length |
If things are aligned properly, one particular length should work in
each of your flap notches. What the right length is, well, that depends
on all of the other pieces in the flap assembly.
It has been a long time since I built the flap control handle and
assorted parts, but I remember having to remake the flap anchor (that's
the curved piece with the notches in it, right?) because it didn't make
an even-radius arc segment around the pivot point for the flap handle.
That caused binding problems in the slot in the handle, and probably
meant that one flap notch worked well, and another didn't.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: Tim Bryan
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 9:28 PM
Subject: RV-List: RV-6 Manual Flaps control rod length
Hi Listers,
The plans call for the F659 rod to be 3 1/2" long. With this
length, my handle will not go in the top notch of the F658A flap anchor.
Has it been everyones experience the 659 rod needs to be shorter?
Thanks
Tim
Message 26
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| Subject: | Price on Altrak unit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Bert,
Try steinair.com or starkavionics.com
I have heard good things about both of them.
Terry
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
Any place besides, well known suppliers, such as Spruce, Wicks,
Van/'s etc/ that have best price on this unit?
I heard about E-bay. but also I have heard, bad things on this.. do not
have any idea how it works, can you loose your money?
Suggestions?
Bert
rv6a
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Price on Altrak unit |
--> RV-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
All the dealers get the same price from TruTrak, so their prices will
all be pretty close. The only way you're going to beat their prices is
to buy a used one.
And yes, you can definitely lose money on ebay.
PJ
RV-10 #40032
bertrv6@highstream.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hi:
>
> Any place besides, well known suppliers, such as Spruce, Wicks,
> Van/'s etc/ that have best price on this unit?
>
> I heard about E-bay. but also I have heard, bad things on this.. do not
> have any idea how it works, can you loose your money?
>
>
> Suggestions?
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | -6A Engine Mount Clearance |
Thanks for all the responses. I happened to need to call Van's to order
some parts and asked about it and was told that since about 5 years ago the
plans call for a hole to be drilled. That's what I get for an old fuselage
kit and a new finish kit. All better now. I have a 7/7A preview plans set
and, sure enough, there it is. Thanks again for all the advice.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - wings on, plumbing continuing.
Message 29
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| Subject: | RV7 Replacement Flap Push Rod (Response) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I'm fairly certain I didn't have to trim the hex pushrod for use on my RV-8.
The rod end bearing must have compensated for any length difference.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Darrell Reiley [mailto:lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2006 11:21 AM
> To: RV-List
> Subject: RV-List: RV7 Replacement Flap Push Rod (Response)
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley
> --> <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
>
> Van's Response:
>
> Darrell,
> Some of our customers have chosen to purchase the
> RV-9 flap push rods to use on their RV-6/7/8 aircraft, part
> number VA-256 $12.00 each -threaded hex rod. In order to use
> those you would have to enlarge the hole where the pushrod
> goes thru the fuselage. Also, as this piece was intended for
> the RV-9= larger flap, it will be too long. So when you trim
> the hex rod down, you would trim a little off each end. If
> you trim it all off one side, you may cut off all the threads.
>
> This modification doesn't hurt anything of course (as
> long as the rod is installed correctly), but it isn't necessary.
>
> We are, of course, always happy to sell more parts!
> :)
>
> Jessica V
>
> JUST FYI...
>
>
> Darrell Reiley
> RV7A "Reiley Rocket"
> N622DR Reserved
>
> CenTex_RV_Aircraft-owner@yahoogroups.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> __________________________________________________
>
> Photoshare, and much much more:
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: RV-7 or RV-9 |
>One last comment I will share from the same engineer at Van's I spoke with
>that day. He said, "it has been their experience that an
>RV-7/7A Lycoming 0-320 160 HP is the BEST engine/airframe
>combination...". I've flown both a 180 HP RV-7A and my 160 HP model and
>the only difference I can tell is climb in the 160 HP airplane is about
>200 FPM on average less than the 180 HP. Oh.. and I burn about .5 to 1.0
>gallons less per hour... thus extending my cross-country range. I fly
>4.0-4.5 hour cross country legs and always have an hour or better reserve
>when I land.
>
>Sorry Ron... I know you are an advocate for 180-HP or better in the
>RV-7/7A but I venture to same more of us live and fly from airports
>at/near mean sea level than 7KFT in the mountains... I've flown my RV-7A
>from airports at 9KFT density altitude... no problem!
>
>Jack Lockamy
Insert friendly smiley as appropriate.
Nice try Jack. I flew from 00V to east of Albuquerque and back non-stop and
had about an hours worth of fuel left. I would need to find the flight log to
give you the exact amount. The flight duration was about 4.4 hours. And that
was starting with six gallons LESS than a RV 7(A). Actually I will say that I
had 46 minutes of fuel remaining.
Thusly therefor I don't buy the argument that a 180 HP burns more fuel than
a 160 HP
all other things being the same. That comment is based upon going the same
speed
versus same percentage power setting. But given all that people will do
whatever
they wish.
Thanks for the lead on the flexible valve stem extender.
Ron Lee
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Price on Altrak unit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "N777TY" <microsmurfer@yahoo.com>
Check out:
http://www.affordablepanels.com/trutrak_autopilots.htm
Fabian seems to have decent discounts on some of these items.
--------
RV-7A
N777TY (res)
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=56871#56871
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: insufficient seat recline |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
Tim Bryan wrote:
> Erich,
>
> Is moving the pedals forward and then using a more forward seat hinge
> a good option? This would give you more incline. Sounds like moving
> the seat back brace would be a bigger issue.
>
> Tim
>
> -------Original Message-------
>
> From: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com <mailto:Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com>
> Date: 08/23/06 14:22:38
> To: rv-list@matronics.com <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: insufficient seat recline
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com
> <mailto:Erich_Weaver@URSCorp.com>
>
>
> I am not quite comfortable with the existing maximum seat recline on
> my -7
> A. Its actually more comfortable for me to take out the seat back cushion
> and use the bare aluminum frame alone so that I can lean back an extra
> couple of inches. Effective, but pretty ugly. Has anyone modified the
> crossbar that limits the recline to allow a few more inches ?
>
> thanks
>
> Erich Weaver
>
>
> ============= he RV-List Email Forum -
> or?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List =============
> sp; - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - > p://forums.matronics.com
> ============= sp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - //wiki.matronics.com
> ============= sp; - List Contribution Web Site -
> sp; -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
> ution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ============
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>_-
>
The seat back cross bar is part of the structural integrity of the
airframe I would doing some checking before moving it or modifying it.
do not archive
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