RV-List Digest Archive

Fri 08/25/06


Total Messages Posted: 18



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:31 AM - Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC (Dana Overall)
     2. 05:44 AM - Re: Fuel System PIAs (Don)
     3. 07:00 AM - Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? (Doc Custer)
     4. 07:11 AM - Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? (Jim Sears)
     5. 09:28 AM - Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? (Rob Prior (rv7))
     6. 12:19 PM - Re: Unusual ring gear tooth wear (Morocketman@aol.com)
     7. 01:34 PM - SportAir Workshop in Watsonville, CA (Dave Saylor)
     8. 01:37 PM - Re: Unusual ring gear tooth wear (Bob J.)
     9. 03:24 PM - Matching Paint (Duane Bentley)
    10. 03:27 PM - Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
    11. 03:47 PM - Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
    12. 05:46 PM - Re: Matching Paint (Bill Schlatterer)
    13. 06:13 PM - Re: Matching Paint (Bill Schlatterer)
    14. 06:14 PM - Adel clamps on engine bolts (Pam & Tom Brink)
    15. 07:35 PM - Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
    16. 07:49 PM - Fit of front edge of rear tip-up canopy window to front window (John Goldsmith)
    17. 08:33 PM - Re: Fit of front edge of rear tip-up canopy window to front window (William Gill)
    18. 10:09 PM - Re: Unusual ring gear tooth wear (HCRV6@comcast.net)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:31:36 AM PST US
    From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Re: ALTITUDE HOLDER ALTRAC
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com> Albert, I did see Sam's post about Trio also being able to serve as a "mere" wing leveler. Since I have been doing some serious studying, here is quick update. Upon power up it goes to TRK mode, if it gets no GPS it flashes NO GPS and you use the L-R switch to initiate turns. So yes, as Sam said, it is a wing leveler and does so automatically if no GPS data is available. Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4 http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html do not archive _________________________________________________________________ Get the new Windows Live Messenger! http://imagine-msn.com/messenger/launch80/default.aspx?locale=en-us&source=wlmailtagline


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:44:43 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Fuel System PIAs
    From: "Don" <airflow2@bellsouth.net>
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Don" <airflow2@bellsouth.net> You have a lot of questions here. First with out seeing your installation with the exhaust system installed I dont know about this interference problem with the metered fuel hose. But if you e-mailed me a picture Im sure we could resolve this problem easily. You might require a different hose than the one you have. So if you have additional questions on this give me a call. The mechanical fuel pump outlet problem is a new one. Or at least no one has called me on this problem yet. Theres no problem with repositioning the fuel outlet fitting on the pump so the hose will not interfere with the engine mount. There should be enough hose to do that. There again, a special hose might be needed for your application. There is no need to connect the boost pump and engine driven pump in parallel. This only creates more plumbing, connections and additional check valves in the system. Hook the boost pump and engine driven pump in series. Theres no problem with this installation and its done on most certified installations. Keep the metered fuel lines short as possible. I have done installations where the hoses support the Flowscan unit. Theres no need to run the hoses back to the engine mount or fire wall then up to the purge valve inlet. We have done installations where the hose coming out of the fuel control is 3-4 inches long, attaches to the Flowscan unit and the hose goes directly to the purge valve inlet. The hoses support the Flowscan unit. We firesleeve the Flowscan unit after the hoses are connected. This has worked well so far. I have probably done this at least 6 times this way. If you have specific questions about your Airflow Performance fuel injection system, please dont hesitate to give us a call or e-mail. Don airflow2@bellsouth.net Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=57204#57204


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:00:31 AM PST US
    From: "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us>
    Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us> The 7 is a heavy plane -- stressed for aerobatics. The 9 is much lighter and has a modern wing while the 7 uses an old NACA airfoil. The 9 is thus more efficient: Less weight, better wing. Still -- it all depends on the mission. Ask the guys at Vans who fly long distance cross country which plane they would rather take. I did. The agreement was unanimous -- take the 9 for cross country. If you want to be upside down go with the 7. Simple. Just look at Van's design goals with both the 7 and the 9. Van's designs are very successful based on which mission is going to be flown. If you get a plane designed for one mission and fly it on different missions regularly you are not going to be as satisfied as the guy who flies the plane on the mission for which it was designed. Doc ----- Original Message ----- From: <rv6@grandecom.net> Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 4:42 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? > --> RV-List message posted by: rv6@grandecom.net > > Quoting Hopperdhh@aol.com: > > Well said. > > >> >> In a message dated 8/24/2006 7:47:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, >> KBelue@drs-tem.com writes: >> >> In my experience, an RV-x with 160hp and an RV-x with 180hp flying >> together >> at the same speed (both with the same prop: fixed pitch or CS, and both >> with >> the same induction: carb. or FI) consume almost exactly the same amount >> of >> fuel. The only variance seems to be the amount one might be able to lean >> over >> the other. If they both fly @ 75% power, the 180hp uses more fuel, but >> is >> going faster (~10 mph). >> >> Kevin D. Belue >> RV-6A 700hrs. >> RV-10 finish >> >> >> >> >> I would think that the lower weight would give an advantage to the O-320 >> powered ship. >> >> Dan Hopper >> RV-7A 200 HP wishing it were lighter >> >> > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:11:06 AM PST US
    From: "Jim Sears" <jmsears@adelphia.net>
    Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Sears" <jmsears@adelphia.net> Well, the -9A may be lighter by design; but, I built a RV-6A and helped to build a -9A. Amazingly, the two were within a couple of pounds of each other in weight. Both were similarly equiped with power, prop, etc. I think the -7A is pretty close to that, as well. In fact, I'm still not sure why Van removed the 150hp engine from their list of powerplants for the -7x unless it was the fact that they don't sell them. As for the mission, I agree. I must say that my little -6A with 150hp engine isn't too bad on cross countries. I fly VFR, though. Anyway, the fellow who asked the original question to the thread has already decided to build a -7x; so, I guess this discussion could probably end. Jim Sears in KY do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us> Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 9:59 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? > --> RV-List message posted by: "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us> > > The 7 is a heavy plane -- stressed for aerobatics. The 9 is much lighter > and has a modern wing while the 7 uses an old NACA airfoil. The 9 is thus > more efficient: Less weight, better wing. > > Still -- it all depends on the mission. Ask the guys at Vans who fly long > distance cross country which plane they would rather take. I did. The > agreement was unanimous -- take the 9 for cross country. > > If you want to be upside down go with the 7. > > Simple. Just look at Van's design goals with both the 7 and the 9. Van's > designs are very successful based on which mission is going to be flown. > If you get a plane designed for one mission and fly it on different > missions regularly you are not going to be as satisfied as the guy who > flies the plane on the mission for which it was designed. > > Doc > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: <rv6@grandecom.net> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <Hopperdhh@aol.com> > Sent: Thursday, August 24, 2006 4:42 PM > Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ? > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: rv6@grandecom.net >> >> Quoting Hopperdhh@aol.com: >> >> Well said. >> >> >>> >>> In a message dated 8/24/2006 7:47:25 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, >>> KBelue@drs-tem.com writes: >>> >>> In my experience, an RV-x with 160hp and an RV-x with 180hp flying >>> together >>> at the same speed (both with the same prop: fixed pitch or CS, and both >>> with >>> the same induction: carb. or FI) consume almost exactly the same amount >>> of >>> fuel. The only variance seems to be the amount one might be able to >>> lean >>> over >>> the other. If they both fly @ 75% power, the 180hp uses more fuel, but >>> is >>> going faster (~10 mph). >>> >>> Kevin D. Belue >>> RV-6A 700hrs. >>> RV-10 finish >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> I would think that the lower weight would give an advantage to the O-320 >>> powered ship. >>> >>> Dan Hopper >>> RV-7A 200 HP wishing it were lighter >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:28:27 AM PST US
    From: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
    Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca> On 6:59:10 2006-08-25 "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us> wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us> > > The 7 is a heavy plane -- stressed for aerobatics. The 9 is much > lighter and has a modern wing while the 7 uses an old NACA airfoil. > The 9 is thus more efficient: Less weight, better wing. >From the Van's website: RV-9 Empty Weight 1015 - 1057 lbs Gross Weight 1600 - 1750 lbs RV-7 Empty Weight 1061 - 1114 lbs Gross Weight 1800 lbs I don't think it's safe to say that the -7 is a "heavy" plane compared to the -9. AFter all, it uses the same fuselage, and probably the same gear and engine mount. The only difference is the horizontal stab and the wing. Beyond that, your choice of engine and avionics will determine your empty weight more than your choice of airframe. > If you want to be upside down go with the 7. That was my criteria. :) -Rob


    Message 6


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    Time: 12:19:38 PM PST US
    From: Morocketman@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Unusual ring gear tooth wear
    Call Les at Skytec. He is wonderful to work with, and has all the knowledge you will need. Doesn't sound good to me. Les Featherston MO Rocketman do not archive


    Message 7


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    Time: 01:34:30 PM PST US
    From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave@AirCraftersLLC.com>
    Subject: SportAir Workshop in Watsonville, CA
    Listers, I'm taking an informal head count to see if there is sufficient interest in a 2 day SportAir RV builder's workshop to be held early November 2006 at Watsonville Airport (WVI). Interested parties please contact me off list: Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 www.AirCraftersLLC.com Do Not Archive


    Message 8


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    Time: 01:37:15 PM PST US
    From: "Bob J." <rocketbob@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Unusual ring gear tooth wear
    This is a problem I've seen with Sky-Tec starters on at least three occasions, not enough ring gear engagement. If you call them of course it won't be their fault. Once you can't get the thing to crank over the first compression, then they'll blame the engine manufacturer, then your wiring, your battery, your solenoid, your mother, etc. I used to poo-poo B&C's because of the cost until I did some horsetrading and got one on a trade. Now without question I believe that it is the best starter, with the new Sky-Tec high-torque starter in close second. They're both about the same price ($550). The B&C is geared slightly taller which helps it overcome the first compression stroke with ease, just a little bit better (but slower) than the high-torque inline starter from Sky-Tec, but not by much. A friend and I did testing on his F1 of three different starters (Sky-Tec Flyweight, my B&C, and the Sky-Tec high torque model). The Flyweight's planetary gearing (which is plastic!) can only be rebuilt by them; as far as cranking performance goes it was in dead-last place. One big advantage of the B&C is that it is rebuildable by your local starter shop. I rebuilt the used one I got to like new condition for $38.00. BTW the better two of the three starters fully engaged the ring gear. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On 8/25/06, HCRV6@comcast.net <HCRV6@comcast.net> wrote: > > Engine Gurus, > > I have about 255 hours total time on my factory new O-360A1A and have > noticed that the wear pattern on the flywheel ring gear looks as if the > starter gear is engaging only about the top 1/16 inch or less of each ring > gear tooth. Also it looks as if the teeth on the ring gear are wearing > slightly rounded, with slightly more wear on the aft part. The engine was > delivered from Van's with a Sky-Tec starter that otherwise seems to work > great and really spins up the engine on startup. > > Can anyone comment on this type of ring gear wear pattern as to whether it > is normal or do I have a problem developing? Also, it possible that my > starter could have the wrong tooth size for the ring gear and have been > operating reasonably well for this many hours? > > Appreciate any thoughts on this. > -- > Harry Crosby > RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours > > * > > > * > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 03:24:49 PM PST US
    From: "Duane Bentley" <dbentley@fuse.net>
    Subject: Matching Paint
    I had my RV6 painted by James Barnhart at Air Colors, Urbana, OH in November 2004. He did a pretty good job, but unfortunately went out of business and disappeared with no forwarding address in October 2005. At the time he painted my plane, I had picked out the colors I wanted from the Sherwin Williams chart, and gave him those numbers. He asked if he could use PPG, could match my colors, and he preferred their system. I said okay, but unfortunately he never provided the PPG paint spec numbers back to me in either the contract or the final invoice. I never thought about it at the time. I recently asked a buddy who has painted autos professionally for years if he could touch up a few scratches now on my plane. He contacted PPG who said they didn't have a direct cross reference to the SW colors, apparently having a larger number of color tints that SW. They remembered James and the "great records" he kept and couldn't understand why I didn't have the specs for my plane. So here I am. If anyone knows where James Barnhart has surfaced in the country and can get a message to him, I'm not trying to hold him to the warranty, but I really need the paint specs for my plane. If anyone else has an idea on how to match it without buying eight different gallons of paint, I would appreciate it. Duane Bentley RV6 N515DB 190 hrs and flying well West Chester, OH


    Message 10


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    Time: 03:27:28 PM PST US
    From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
    Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
    Doc, Pretty sure the -7 and -9 have exactly the same fuselage, except for where the wing brackets are for mounting the front of the wing, and possibly some other very small differences. The reason the -9 is not aerobatic is mainly because of the longer wings, and possibly because of a weaker horizontal stab. Weights are about the same for a given powerplant. I was referring earlier to the engine being lighter. Can't speak too much about how the -9 is to fly. I have a friend who has one, but I haven't flown it from the left seat, and not much from the right seat. But, I sure do like my -7A for any mission, except aerial photography. I can't imagine a better 2 place airplane. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/25/2006 10:02:21 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ddcuster@wmv-co.us writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us> The 7 is a heavy plane -- stressed for aerobatics. The 9 is much lighter and has a modern wing while the 7 uses an old NACA airfoil. The 9 is thus more efficient: Less weight, better wing. Still -- it all depends on the mission. Ask the guys at Vans who fly long distance cross country which plane they would rather take. I did. The agreement was unanimous -- take the 9 for cross country. If you want to be upside down go with the 7. Simple. Just look at Van's design goals with both the 7 and the 9. Van's designs are very successful based on which mission is going to be flown. If you get a plane designed for one mission and fly it on different missions regularly you are not going to be as satisfied as the guy who flies the plane on the mission for which it was designed. Doc


    Message 11


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    Time: 03:47:50 PM PST US
    From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
    Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
    In a message dated 8/24/2006 8:47:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, khorton01@rogers.com writes: I would think that the lower weight would give an advantage to the O-320 powered ship. The speed change for a 10 to 20 lb weight reduction is negligible, as the vast majority of the drag at cruise speeds is profile drag, and it does not vary with weight. The induced drag, which does vary with the square of weight, is less than 15% of the total drag at typical cruise speeds (data from the CAFE Foundation APR on the RV-6A) . The CAFE foundation data suggests that it would take about a 100 lb weight reduction to realize a 1 mph speed increase, assuming everything else was equal. Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada Kevin, The weight difference between a plane with a 200 HP angle valve IO-360 with a constant speed prop and a O-320 with a wood prop would probably be close to 100 pounds. I'm glad to hear that even 100 pounds is not too significant. I would still like to experience a really light RV-7A. Too bad it is soooooo much work to change engines! Dan Hopper RV-7A 200 HP


    Message 12


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    Time: 05:46:57 PM PST US
    From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Matching Paint
    Not much of a problem if you're close to town. DuPont and PPG both make a device, I think DuPont's is called Chroma-Vision that you carry out to the car and it analyzes the paint color and then creates a formula to match that color. Call any place that specializes in automotive paint finishes and you should be fine. Look for a DuPont or PPG distributor. They will have to go to the plane to match it up unless you can bring a panel or something similar to their place of business. Let me know if you need more info. They will probably expect that you buy the paint from them ;-) Bill S 7a wiring/engine _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duane Bentley Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 5:24 PM Subject: RV-List: Matching Paint I had my RV6 painted by James Barnhart at Air Colors, Urbana, OH in November 2004. He did a pretty good job, but unfortunately went out of business and disappeared with no forwarding address in October 2005. At the time he painted my plane, I had picked out the colors I wanted from the Sherwin Williams chart, and gave him those numbers. He asked if he could use PPG, could match my colors, and he preferred their system. I said okay, but unfortunately he never provided the PPG paint spec numbers back to me in either the contract or the final invoice. I never thought about it at the time. I recently asked a buddy who has painted autos professionally for years if he could touch up a few scratches now on my plane. He contacted PPG who said they didn't have a direct cross reference to the SW colors, apparently having a larger number of color tints that SW. They remembered James and the "great records" he kept and couldn't understand why I didn't have the specs for my plane. So here I am. If anyone knows where James Barnhart has surfaced in the country and can get a message to him, I'm not trying to hold him to the warranty, but I really need the paint specs for my plane. If anyone else has an idea on how to match it without buying eight different gallons of paint, I would appreciate it. Duane Bentley RV6 N515DB 190 hrs and flying well West Chester, OH


    Message 13


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    Time: 06:13:48 PM PST US
    From: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Matching Paint
    This is a link for a little more information on the color match system. Should be able to match the PPG with DuPont if you can't find a PPG distributor. http://www.performancecoatings.dupont.com/dpc/en/us/html/color/daf/doc/chvis n_prod_guide.html Bill S _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Schlatterer Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 7:46 PM Subject: RE: RV-List: Matching Paint Not much of a problem if you're close to town. DuPont and PPG both make a device, I think DuPont's is called Chroma-Vision that you carry out to the car and it analyzes the paint color and then creates a formula to match that color. Call any place that specializes in automotive paint finishes and you should be fine. Look for a DuPont or PPG distributor. They will have to go to the plane to match it up unless you can bring a panel or something similar to their place of business. Let me know if you need more info. They will probably expect that you buy the paint from them ;-) Bill S 7a wiring/engine _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Duane Bentley Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 5:24 PM Subject: RV-List: Matching Paint I had my RV6 painted by James Barnhart at Air Colors, Urbana, OH in November 2004. He did a pretty good job, but unfortunately went out of business and disappeared with no forwarding address in October 2005. At the time he painted my plane, I had picked out the colors I wanted from the Sherwin Williams chart, and gave him those numbers. He asked if he could use PPG, could match my colors, and he preferred their system. I said okay, but unfortunately he never provided the PPG paint spec numbers back to me in either the contract or the final invoice. I never thought about it at the time. I recently asked a buddy who has painted autos professionally for years if he could touch up a few scratches now on my plane. He contacted PPG who said they didn't have a direct cross reference to the SW colors, apparently having a larger number of color tints that SW. They remembered James and the "great records" he kept and couldn't understand why I didn't have the specs for my plane. So here I am. If anyone knows where James Barnhart has surfaced in the country and can get a message to him, I'm not trying to hold him to the warranty, but I really need the paint specs for my plane. If anyone else has an idea on how to match it without buying eight different gallons of paint, I would appreciate it. Duane Bentley RV6 N515DB 190 hrs and flying well West Chester, OH com/Navigator?RV-List


    Message 14


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    Time: 06:14:12 PM PST US
    From: "Pam & Tom Brink" <purchhome@gen-aircraft-hardware.com>
    Subject: Adel clamps on engine bolts
    The MS21333 clamps can be had in with several sizes of mounting holes. see http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/ms21333.pdf for reference. Tom Brink RV6 s/n 25416


    Message 15


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    Time: 07:35:42 PM PST US
    From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
    Subject: Re: RV-7 or RV-9 ?RV-7 or RV-9 ?
    In a message dated 08/25/2006 9:13:21 AM Central Daylight Time, jmsears@adelphia.net writes: I must say that my little -6A with 150hp engine isn't too bad on cross countries. >> Yaaaa Jim- been crossing the country for some time in mine and I couldn't agree more! X-amples: either OSH or LAL to SYI (home base near Nashville) in about 4 hours, non-stop, less than 25 gallons! Sho' 'nuff cain't be-atch about that! 8-) Mark do not archive


    Message 16


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    Time: 07:49:26 PM PST US
    From: John Goldsmith <jgold4747@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Fit of front edge of rear tip-up canopy window to front window
    I finally got around to positioning the rear (tip-up) canopy window of my RV-7A (skin clecoed around it in the back), and I find that, with the outer (lowest) edges just touching the front canopy window, there is about a 1/4" gap between the window pieces at the top center. I had not expected to have to trim the front edge of the rear canopy piece after making the big cut, anticipating that it would follow the front canopy piece evenly along the roll bar. Have others found the need to trim the front edge of the rear piece, taking off about 1/4" at the edges, and very little in the center? John Goldsmith RV-7A quickbuild finish kit --------------------------------- Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.


    Message 17


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    Time: 08:33:09 PM PST US
    From: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
    Subject: Fit of front edge of rear tip-up canopy window to front window
    Yes, the rear window typically requires trimming as you mentioned.1/4" sounds about right. Just do a little at a time. Bill -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Goldsmith Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 9:49 PM Subject: RV-List: Fit of front edge of rear tip-up canopy window to front window I finally got around to positioning the rear (tip-up) canopy window of my RV-7A (skin clecoed around it in the back), and I find that, with the outer (lowest) edges just touching the front canopy window, there is about a 1/4" gap between the window pieces at the top center. I had not expected to have to trim the front edge of the rear canopy piece after making the "big cut," anticipating that it would follow the front canopy piece evenly along the roll bar. Have others found the need to trim the front edge of the rear piece, taking off about 1/4" at the edges, and very little in the center? John Goldsmith RV-7A quickbuild finish kit <mailto:rv-list@matronics.com> Get on board. You're <http://us.rd.yahoo.com/evt=40791/*http:/advision.webevents.yahoo.com/ma ilbeta> invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.


    Message 18


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    Time: 10:09:44 PM PST US
    From: HCRV6@comcast.net
    Subject: Re: Unusual ring gear tooth wear
    Thanks Bob, I appreciate the info. -- Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Bob J." <rocketbob@gmail.com> This is a problem I've seen with Sky-Tec starters on at least three occasions, not enough ring gear engagement. If you call them of course it won't be their fault. Once you can't get the thing to crank over the first compression, then they'll blame the engine manufacturer, then your wiring, your battery, your solenoid, your mother, etc. I used to poo-poo B&C's because of the cost until I did some horsetrading and got one on a trade. Now without question I believe that it is the best starter, with the new Sky-Tec high-torque starter in close second. They're both about the same price ($550). The B&C is geared slightly taller which helps it overcome the first compression stroke with ease, just a little bit better (but slower) than the high-torque inline starter from Sky-Tec, but not by much. A friend and I did testing on his F1 of three different starters (Sky-Tec Flyweight, my B&C, and the Sky-Tec high torque model). The Flyweight's planetary gearing (which is plastic!) can on ly be rebuilt by them; as far as cranking performance goes it was in dead-last place. One big advantage of the B&C is that it is rebuildable by your local starter shop. I rebuilt the used one I got to like new condition for $38.00. BTW the better two of the three starters fully engaged the ring gear. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On 8/25/06, HCRV6@comcast.net < HCRV6@comcast.net> wrote: Engine Gurus, I have about 255 hours total time on my factory new O-360A1A and have noticed that the wear pattern on the flywheel ring gear looks as if the starter gear is engaging only about the top 1/16 inch or less of each ring gear tooth. Also it looks as if the teeth on the ring gear are wearing slightly rounded, with slightly more wear on the aft part. The engine was delivered from Van's with a Sky-Tec starter that otherwise seems to work great and really spins up the engine on startup. Can anyone comment on this type of ring gear wear pattern as to whether it is normal or do I have a problem developing? Also, it possible that my starter could have the wrong tooth size for the ring gear and have been operating reasonably well for this many hours? Appreciate any thoughts on this. -- Harry Crosby RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page, ronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" target="_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List k" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> http://forums.matronics.com "return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> http://wiki.matronics.com -Matt Dralle, List Admin. _blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://www.matronics.com/contribution ========== <html><body> <DIV>Thanks Bob, I appreciate the info.</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV class=signature id=signature>--<BR>Harry Crosby <BR>RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px solid">-------------- Original message -------------- <BR>From: "Bob J." &lt;rocketbob@gmail.com&gt; <BR>This is a problem I've seen with Sky-Tec starters on at least three occasions, not enough ring gear engagement.&nbsp; If you call them of course it won't be their fault.&nbsp; Once you can't get the thing to crank over the first compression, then they'll blame the engine manufacturer, then your wiring, your battery, your solenoid, your mother, etc.&nbsp; I used to poo-poo B&amp;C's because of the cost until I did some horsetrading and got one on a trade.&nbsp; Now without question I believe that it is the best starter, with the new Sky-Tec high-torque starter in close second.&nbsp; They're both about the same price ($550). The B&amp;C is geared slightly taller which helps it overcome the first compression stroke with ease, just a little bit better (but slower) than the high-torque inline start er fro m Sky-Tec, but not by much.&nbsp; A friend and I did testing on his F1 of three different starters (Sky-Tec Flyweight, my B&amp;C, and the Sky-Tec high torque model).&nbsp; The Flyweight's planetary gearing (which is plastic!) can only be rebuilt by them; as far as cranking performance goes it was in dead-last place.&nbsp; One big advantage of the B&amp;C is that it is rebuildable by your local starter shop.&nbsp; I rebuilt the used one I got to like new condition for $38.00.&nbsp;&nbsp; BTW the better two of the three starters fully engaged the ring gear. <BR><BR>Regards,<BR>Bob Japundza<BR>RV-6 flying F1 under const.<BR><BR> <DIV><SPAN class=gmail_quote>On 8/25/06, <B class=gmail_sendername><A href="mailto:HCRV6@comcast.net">HCRV6@comcast.net</A></B> &lt;<A href="mailto:HCRV6@comcast.net"> HCRV6@comcast.net</A>&gt; wrote:</SPAN> <BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid"> <DIV> <DIV> <DIV>Engine Gurus,</DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>I have about 255 hours total time on my factory new O-360A1A and have noticed that the wear pattern on the flywheel ring gear looks as if the starter gear is engaging only about the top 1/16 inch or less of each ring gear tooth.&nbsp; Also it looks as if the teeth on the ring gear are wearing slightly rounded, with slightly more wear on the aft part.&nbsp; The engine was delivered from Van's with a Sky-Tec starter that otherwise seems to work great and really spins up the engine on startup.&nbsp; </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Can anyone comment on this type of ring gear wear pattern as to whether it is normal or do I have a problem developing?&nbsp; Also, it possible that my starter could have the wrong tooth size for the ring gear and have been operating reasonably well for this many hours? </DIV> <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV> <DIV>Appreciate any thoughts on this.</DIV> <DIV>--<BR>Harry Crosby <BR>RV-6 N16CX, 254 hours</DIV><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2> the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page, ronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" target="_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"&gt; http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List</A> k" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"&gt; http://forums.matronics.com</A> "return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"&gt; http://wiki.matronics.com</A> -Matt Dralle, List Admin.<BR> _blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"&gt;http://www.matronics.com/contribution</A> ===========<BR><BR></FONT></B></PRE></DIV></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV><BR><PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" size=2 color000000?> </B></FONT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier"> </b></font></pre></body></html>




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