Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:36 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
2. 01:58 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
3. 04:12 AM - Re: Attaching floors with nutplates. (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
4. 05:08 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Charlie Kuss)
5. 05:08 AM - Re: Van's Wheel Fairings (Charlie Kuss)
6. 06:06 AM - Re:TRUTRACK ADI Pilot 1 (PGLong@aol.com)
7. 06:49 AM - Re: Van's Wheel Fairings (Jerry Grimmonpre)
8. 06:52 AM - Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (kitfoxmike)
9. 07:09 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
10. 07:12 AM - Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (kitfoxmike)
11. 07:37 AM - Re: longer spinner, was Engine mount out of spec (glen matejcek)
12. 08:32 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
13. 08:32 AM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Charlie Kuss)
14. 09:22 AM - Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (kitfoxmike)
15. 09:32 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Charlie Kuss)
16. 09:38 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Bob J.)
17. 09:46 AM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Ron Lee)
18. 09:46 AM - Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
19. 11:22 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Dana Overall)
20. 12:07 PM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
21. 12:08 PM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
22. 12:19 PM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
23. 02:01 PM - FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions (Frazier, Vincent A)
24. 02:52 PM - Re: FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions (Jerry Hansen)
25. 03:05 PM - Re: FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions (Steve Eberhart)
26. 03:37 PM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Charlie Kuss)
27. 03:46 PM - rivets (linn Walters)
28. 05:10 PM - Re: Van's Wheel Fairings (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
29. 05:40 PM - Re: rivets (FLYaDIVE@aol.com)
30. 05:53 PM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net (Bob Collins))
31. 05:53 PM - Re: Sam James fiberglass video (Dave)
32. 06:12 PM - Re: rivets (Doc Custer)
33. 06:29 PM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Bob Collins)
34. 07:09 PM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Darrell Reiley)
35. 10:50 PM - elevator balance weight (Ed Holyoke)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount out of spec |
Barry,
Yes, they are Lord, I think. They are the from Vans. But, they are the
exact same ones I had on the other mount and in the same positions. When I took
the engine off the mount, I put each set in a separate zip-lock bag and
labeled it. I referred to the plans again and put the high durometer mounts in
the right locations -- just like I had them before. I kept them stacked just
like I took them off and restarted the nuts. I'm very sure that there is no
mistake here.
There is one possibility. The engine case is not the same one, but a
different IO-360-C1E6 off the shelf at Divco. I agreed to take a different case
to
speed up the turnaround. If I had it to do over again I wouldn't do this.
I am using an IO-360-A1A sump and intake tubes on this engine, which I
believe makes it an IO-360-A1D6. Do you know of any problem like this between
cases?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 8/29/2006 5:27:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 8/29/06 10:16:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
> I called Van's to see if perhaps I was sent the wrong mount. I was told
> that this spec on the mounts was +/- 1/16 inch, and there must be
something
> else causing the problem. Since I am using the same everything else, I
can't
> see what else it could be. With the engine mounted and 2 weeks of
connecting
> up everything already done, I am stuck.
=================================
Dan:
Before you go through all that work, I would check one thing ... Check to
see
if you have the thrust washers on in the correct order and correct location.
I have more info but first I need to know which engine and who's vibration
mounts? They wouldn't happen to be Lord?
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount out of spec |
In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
Do you know of any problem like this between cases?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
===============================
Hi Dan:
Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases.
I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems.
When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the back
to effect things at the front.
Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will make a
difference?
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Attaching floors with nutplates. |
In a message dated 08/29/2006 9:11:33 PM Central Daylight Time,
FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes:
If you are away from home and need
to do a little maintenance or something works its way down into no-man's land
>>>
I keep a small 1/4" ratchet and each of the bits/sockets for most routine
items on my plane in my on-board toolkit, which is a single Shure microphone bag
about the size of a small shaving kit that essentially vainishes on the floor
between the seats on my -6A. There are also several spare Torx screws of each
size I use in there too.
(also tie-down rings, electrical tape, wingjack blocks and basic tools to
remove all access covers, cowling, pants and do most away-from-home chores- no
spare engine or kitchen sink tho...)
>From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips - N51PW "Mojo" with LOTS of Torx screws on board!
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount out of spec |
Dan,
Vans does not sell Lord or Barry brand mounts. The mount kit they
supply is made by VIP, Vibration Isolation Products.
Charlie Kuss
>Barry,
>
>Yes, they are Lord, I think. They are the from Vans. But, they are
>the exact same ones I had on the other mount and in the same
>positions. When I took the engine off the mount, I put each set in
>a separate zip-lock bag and labeled it. I referred to the plans
>again and put the high durometer mounts in the right locations --
>just like I had them before. I kept them stacked just like I took
>them off and restarted the nuts. I'm very sure that there is no mistake here.
>
>There is one possibility. The engine case is not the same one, but
>a different IO-360-C1E6 off the shelf at Divco. I agreed to take a
>different case to speed up the turnaround. If I had it to do over
>again I wouldn't do this. I am using an IO-360-A1A sump and intake
>tubes on this engine, which I believe makes it an IO-360-A1D6. Do
>you know of any problem like this between cases?
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A
>
>
>In a message dated 8/29/2006 5:27:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes:
>--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 8/29/06 10:16:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
>
> > I called Van's to see if perhaps I was sent the wrong mount. I was told
> > that this spec on the mounts was +/- 1/16 inch, and there must be
>something
> > else causing the problem. Since I am using the same everything else, I
>can't
> > see what else it could be. With the engine mounted and 2 weeks of
>connecting
> > up everything already done, I am stuck.
>=================================
>Dan:
>
>Before you go through all that work, I would check one thing ... Check to see
>if you have the thrust washers on in the correct order and correct location.
>
>I have more info but first I need to know which engine and who's vibration
>mounts? They wouldn't happen to be Lord?
>
>Barry
>"Chop'd Liver"
>
>"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
>time." es Day --> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
>bsp; --> nbsp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI -
>; ========================
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Wheel Fairings |
Dick
Two questions.
Can you recommend any other name brand tires besides Goodyear?
What speed gain did you see by using the Sam James wheel pants?
Charlie Kuss
>Derrick,
>When I built my RV8 in 1999, I experimented with several wheelpant
>and tire variations. My objective was to obtain the most speed and
>the least drag possible. I found out that when I used any of the
>various cheap tires, I needed at least a 1/2 inch clearance around
>the tire casing, because when landing etc. the cheap tires would
>expand and rub the wheelpant. I solved the problem by installing
>Goodyear Custom III tires and tubes. The Custom III series has a
>much stiffer tred and side casing and holds its shape even with a
>hard landing. Note: the lower (closer to ground) you install the
>wheel pant, the faster you will go.
>I tried Vans pressure recovery pants first and then went to Sam
>James pressure recovery pants because they went faster and looked better.
>Good luck with your project.
>Dick Martin
>RV8 N233M
>the fast one
>1350 hours - it gets better every day
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <mailto:n184da@volcano.net>Derrick Aubuchon
>To: <mailto:RV-List@matronics.com>RV List
>Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 9:44 AM
>Subject: RV-List: Van's Wheel Fairings
>
>I am replacing (finally!) my original, old style wheel fairings, for
>Van's "new" Pressure Recovery fairings.
>Any ideas on what works best for a minimal tire-to-faring clearance
>around the lower opening?
>
>Thanks,
>
>
>Derrick L. Aubuchon
>
>RV-4: N184DA (450+ hrs)
>
>Jackson/Westover -Amador County (O70)
>
><mailto:n184da@volcano.net>n184da@volcano.net
>
>
>com/Navigator?RV-List
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: TRUTRACK ADI Pilot 1 |
Ian
Just added a TruTrak ADI Pilot II, two axis pilot to my RV-4. Make sure you
get the Pilot II, and not the Pilot I, or you will end up with a single axis
pilot. I don't know why it took me so long to decide to do this. What a
superb instrument.
Pat Long
PGLong@aol.com
N120PL
RV4
Bay City, Michigan
3CM
Do Not Archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Wheel Fairings |
Does anyone know the difference between Goodyear Custom III tires and
the earlier Custom II tires?
Many thanks ....
Jerry Grimmonpre'
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Kuss
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Wheel Fairings
Dick
Two questions.
Can you recommend any other name brand tires besides Goodyear?
What speed gain did you see by using the Sam James wheel pants?
Charlie Kuss
Derrick,
When I built my RV8 in 1999, I experimented with several wheelpant
and tire variations. My objective was to obtain the most speed and the
least drag possible. I found out that when I used any of the various
cheap tires, I needed at least a 1/2 inch clearance around the tire
casing, because when landing etc. the cheap tires would expand and rub
the wheelpant. I solved the problem by installing Goodyear Custom III
tires and tubes. The Custom III series has a much stiffer tred and side
casing and holds its shape even with a hard landing. Note: the lower
(closer to ground) you install the wheel pant, the faster you will go.
I tried Vans pressure recovery pants first and then went to Sam
James pressure recovery pants because they went faster and looked
better.
Good luck with your project.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
1350 hours - it gets better every day
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
FORD found on road dead
--------
kitfoxmike
kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
rv7 wingkit
reserved 287RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58476#58476
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount out of spec |
Barry,
No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is no way to
get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I understand that
washers can make a big difference. Since the distance between the mounts is
about half the length of the engine it should make about a 2 to 1 difference,
maybe a little more due to the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal mount.
What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to add about
3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the hinges and adding
some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I say this because I don't have
room enough in front for the way the baffle is made. There is the FAB
induction box and air cleaner which limits me from trimming the baffle in front.
Also, the alternator is getting very close to the cowl. Moving the whole
cowling forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo this when building the
plane and it is not too bad. The worst thing is messing up the paint job. I
have a new nose wheel fairing and gear leg fairing that need to be painted
anyway. I will probably be flying it with primer patches for a while.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes:
In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
Do you know of any problem like this between cases?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
===============================
Hi Dan:
Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases.
I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems.
When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the
back to effect things at the front.
Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will make a
difference?
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
I would like to add some info here that might seem surprising. In the auto field
the manuals, and I'm talking the factory manuals, have a 30% error. Now the
aftermarket manuals just take from these manuals as well so they are also 30%
in error. This was told to me by the factory reps.
What do I do. Well if I look in a manual and it doesn't seem right, it probably
isn't, so I'm careful. I guess we just need to be smart and research when things
are not right on these planes. And yes I do believe vans should be posting
on their web site the problems, I feel it would make their job a lot easier.
But then again it just might give them a bad rep for a person looking into
buying a kit and their just not willing to take the risk of admitting to not
doing a very good job. I know, sounds a bit stuppid in thinking, but there are
people that look at things that way. I know they should be worried about us,
but we already took the plunge and started buying the kits, so, they don't care
about us people, they care about future sales, or the first sale more. I'm
thinking marketing here nothing more.
--------
kitfoxmike
kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
rv7 wingkit
reserved 287RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58486#58486
Message 11
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| Subject: | RE: longer spinner, was Engine mount out of spec |
--> RV-List message posted by: "glen matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi Dan-
My spinner ( a couple years old) had about an eighth inch of protrusion
beyond the backplate, and it was a clean cut edge. Perhaps you could
contact the manufacturer and get one that they haven't trimmed yet, or even
one that is made a bit longer intentionally.
FWIW,
glen matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount out of spec |
OK, Dan:
One more trick ...
This may not look the best but it does work and of course you can go fancy
and improve the idea...
Get a piece of 1/2" Pipe insulation foam.
Cut it length wise in half so now you have something that look like a 'C'
With the 'C' facing OUT (towards you), glue one part of the 'C' to the cowl
and let the other part fit up against the spinner.
The glue to use is 3M's Weather Stripping Adhesive (Red & White tube / box).
This will seal the gap between the spinner and the cowl.
Don't worry about it being bigger than the gap. The spinning of the spinner
will ware it to exact fit in a few minutes.
And if you want to paint the foam, yes it is paintable.
The advantage are:
1 - Seals off an area of lost air.
2 - Increases the positive air pressure in the upper cowl.
3 - Adds to the cooling and
4 - Makes for a better look than a huge gap.
Now, the pipe insulation can be replace with a thick neoprene cut into an 'O'
ring.
I have this configuration on a Grumman, used it for 9 years, it only needed
replacing once in 9 years. And the scary thing is ... IT WORKS!
Barry
===============================================================
Barry,
No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is no way to
get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I understand that
washers can make a big difference. Since the distance between the mounts is about
half the length of the engine it should make about a 2 to 1 difference, maybe
a little more due to the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal mount.
What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to add about
3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the hinges and adding
some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I say this because I don't have
room enough in front for the way the baffle is made. There is the FAB induction
box and air cleaner which limits me from trimming the baffle in front. Also,
the alternator is getting very close to the cowl. Moving the whole cowling
forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo this when building the plane
and it is not too bad. The worst thing is messing up the paint job. I have a
new nose wheel fairing and gear leg fairing that need to be painted anyway. I
will probably be flying it with primer patches for a while.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes:
In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
Do you know of any problem like this between cases?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
===============================
Hi Dan:
Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases.
I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems.
When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the back
to effect things at the front.
Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will make a
difference?
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
At 10:11 AM 8/30/2006, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
>
>I would like to add some info here that might seem surprising. In
>the auto field the manuals, and I'm talking the factory manuals,
>have a 30% error. Now the aftermarket manuals just take from these
>manuals as well so they are also 30% in error. This was told to me
>by the factory reps.
>snipped
>kitfoxmike
>kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
>http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
>rv7 wingkit
>reserved 287RV
I'll second Mike's observation about errors in automotive tech info.
I do this for a living and it can be maddening. I'd also like to
mention that you don't get "step by step" instructions in these
manuals either. The authors assume that the person doing the work has
enough training to figure out HOW to remove or install a particular
part or assembly which needs to be removed or installed, as part of a
larger project.
Like everyone else, I've spotted a number of small errors on my 8A
plans. A local RV4 builder/owner coined a term for being bit in the
butt by an error in the plans. He calls it being VANdalized. :-)
After seeing my pre-punched 8A kit, he told me I had the "girls" kit.
I got the lecture about earlier builders having to mine their own
Bauxite, in the snow, trudging up hill, both ways, in June, etc, etc.
I spent 4 months helping Jody build his RV4. He was correct, the
older plans were nowhere near as good. He says that compared to
today's plans, his RV4 instructions were "mere vague suggestions".
Still, he finished it, and did a great job of it. I have a lot of
respect for the builders of RV4s and early RV6s like Jody Edwards and
Jerry Springer. For builders of RV3s, like Alex Sloan, all I can say
is "We are not worthy"! :-)
I was the winner in giving Jody 4 months of free help. He taught me
a lot more than I helped him. Folks starting out without a good skill
set, could do worse than to offer to help another builder. It will be
time well spent.
Vans does update errors in the plans. However, if he has 1000 sets
of plans already printed out, the error won't be fixed till the next
printing cycle. He has Dutch genes, after all.
Charlie Kuss
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" <kitfoxmike@yahoo.com>
He has Dutch genes. Oh my, that xplains everything. The first person I worked
for in the auto industry was Dutch, boy was he frugal. Great guy.
--------
kitfoxmike
kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster
http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike
rv7 wingkit
reserved 287RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58531#58531
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount out of spec |
Dan,
Just a thought to consider. I know that Divco offers to modify
Dynafocal type II cases to type I specification. I would think that
this would require material to be machined from the rear of the case
at this point. Perhaps if this was done to your cases, it could
explain the gap. Perhaps a phone call to the shop who overhauled the
crankcases is in order?
Charlie Kuss
>Barry,
>
>No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is
>no way to get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I
>understand that washers can make a big difference. Since the
>distance between the mounts is about half the length of the engine
>it should make about a 2 to 1 difference, maybe a little more due to
>the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal mount.
>
>What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to
>add about 3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the
>hinges and adding some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I
>say this because I don't have room enough in front for the way the
>baffle is made. There is the FAB induction box and air cleaner
>which limits me from trimming the baffle in front. Also, the
>alternator is getting very close to the cowl. Moving the whole
>cowling forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo this when
>building the plane and it is not too bad. The worst thing is
>messing up the paint job. I have a new nose wheel fairing and gear
>leg fairing that need to be painted anyway. I will probably be
>flying it with primer patches for a while.
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A
>
>
>In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes:
>In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
>Do you know of any problem like this between cases?
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A
>
>===============================
>Hi Dan:
>
>Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases.
>I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems.
>When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at
>the back to effect things at the front.
>
>Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers
>will make a difference?
>
>Barry
>"Chop'd Liver"
>
>"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
>time."
>Yamashiada
>
>
>="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
>
>.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>
>ronics.com/">http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount out of spec |
Dan, I would explore sending the mount back to Vans for a refund and get a
"custom" mount made by Snowline Mfg. in Oregon, who build the mounts for
Van's. It may be possible to make a mount to your specs using the factory
jigs, all they'd have to do is put some washers in under the firewall attach
points when they bolt those pieces into the jig (and build up the mount from
there). Assuming some of the other fixtures of the jig that hold the
nosegear socket are bolted to the jig base and those could be raised
perpendicular to the plane of the firewall as well. That would in effect
shorten the length of the mount if a new one were constructed to your
specs. I did a lot of work designing the jig and the 3rd generation of
engine mounts for the F1, and have stayed at a Holiday In Express. :) My
guess is that there are several jigs in use and it may be that there are
some significant dimensional differences between the jigs. I'd call
Snowline and see what they may come up with for you. IMO that would be a
far better solution than cutting into the cowl, at the very minimum you
wouldn't be making a CG problem worse.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 8/30/06, Hopperdhh@aol.com <Hopperdhh@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Barry,
>
> No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is no way
> to get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I understand that
> washers can make a big difference. Since the distance between the mounts is
> about half the length of the engine it should make about a 2 to 1
> difference, maybe a little more due to the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal
> mount.
>
> What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to add
> about 3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the hinges and
> adding some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I say this because I
> don't have room enough in front for the way the baffle is made. There is
> the FAB induction box and air cleaner which limits me from trimming the
> baffle in front. Also, the alternator is getting very close to the cowl.
> Moving the whole cowling forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo
> this when building the plane and it is not too bad. The worst thing is
> messing up the paint job. I have a new nose wheel fairing and gear leg
> fairing that need to be painted anyway. I will probably be flying it with
> primer patches for a while.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
>
>
> In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes:
>
> In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
>
> Do you know of any problem like this between cases?
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
>
> ===============================
> Hi Dan:
>
> Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases.
> I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING
> problems.
> When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the
> back to effect things at the front.
>
> Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will
> make a difference?
>
> Barry
> "Chop'd Liver"
>
> "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the
> third
> time."
> Yamashiada
>
> **
>
> *="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List .matronics.com/">
> http://forums.matronics.com ronics.com/">http://wiki.matronics.com*
> ** *://www.matronics.com/contribution">
>
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
>
> Vans does update errors in the plans. However, if he has 1000 sets of
> plans already printed out, the error won't be fixed till the next
> printing cycle. He has Dutch genes, after all.
>Charlie Kuss
And an errata sheet(s) costs how much?
Ron Lee
Do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
Jerry,
Try Transparts out on Division St. in Portland. (503) 235-6672... That's
where we used to sub out our tranny work. Good people, honest, sensible pricing.
BTW, what flavor KOOL-AID do you prefer? I luv cherry meself... LOL!!!
DO NOT ARCHIVE!!!
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 8/30/2006 12:01:32 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list@matronics.com writes:
Time: 06:01:47 PM PST US
From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@verizon.net>
kitfoxmike wrote:
>well I do have a transmission shop and build todays transmissions and do
the computer
systems and electronics.
>
>
>--------
>kitfoxmike
>
>
Darn wish you lived closer the transmission is going out in my 2002 Ford
(Fix Or Repair Daily) Ranger 4x4. :-)
Jerry
do not archive
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Engine mount out of spec |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Dan, if you do choose to extend the aft portion of your firewall, let me
give you some advice from my plastic airplane building days. Find a local
custom gutter company, the ones with the forming machine on a trailer. Get
a couple scrap pieces of the flat stocklong enough to go wrap completely
around the aft of the cowl. Wax either surface very well and rivet this to
the outside of the cowl, extend aft your desired distance. This material
flexes and bends very, very easily. Now you have surface flush with the
outside edge of your cowl that is used to blend the addition on quite
nicely. Go to playing with glass, let dry, drill the rivets out and pop the
form off the cowl. All you should have to do now is fill in the gap left
between the cowl and your addition.
After all this, you probably know of another method:-), but gutter scrap has
been used in the plastic world extensively.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
_________________________________________________________________
Check the weather nationwide with MSN Search: Try it now!
http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=weather&FORM=WLMTAG
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount out of spec |
Dana,
Thanks very very much! That would make this a lot easier than how I was
going to do it. I am going to take Bob's advice and see if the engine mount can
be modified because he is right about the cg. That would also save me a lot
of paint work.
The plane is already nose heavy, and this should only move it about another
1/8 inch forward, but that is in the wrong direction.
Thanks again,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 8/30/2006 2:24:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
bo124rs@hotmail.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Dan, if you do choose to extend the aft portion of your firewall, let me
give you some advice from my plastic airplane building days. Find a local
custom gutter company, the ones with the forming machine on a trailer. Get
a couple scrap pieces of the flat stocklong enough to go wrap completely
around the aft of the cowl. Wax either surface very well and rivet this to
the outside of the cowl, extend aft your desired distance. This material
flexes and bends very, very easily. Now you have surface flush with the
outside edge of your cowl that is used to blend the addition on quite
nicely. Go to playing with glass, let dry, drill the rivets out and pop the
form off the cowl. All you should have to do now is fill in the gap left
between the cowl and your addition.
After all this, you probably know of another method:-), but gutter scrap has
been used in the plastic world extensively.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4
http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html
do not archive
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount out of spec |
Bob,
Good advice. I will see if a search will locate them.
Thanks,
Dan
do not archive
In a message dated 8/30/2006 12:41:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rocketbob@gmail.com writes:
Dan, I would explore sending the mount back to Vans for a refund and get a
"custom" mount made by Snowline Mfg. in Oregon, who build the mounts for
Van's. It may be possible to make a mount to your specs using the factory jigs,
all they'd have to do is put some washers in under the firewall attach points
when they bolt those pieces into the jig (and build up the mount from there).
Assuming some of the other fixtures of the jig that hold the nosegear
socket are bolted to the jig base and those could be raised perpendicular to the
plane of the firewall as well. That would in effect shorten the length of
the mount if a new one were constructed to your specs. I did a lot of work
designing the jig and the 3rd generation of engine mounts for the F1, and have
stayed at a Holiday In Express. :) My guess is that there are several jigs in
use and it may be that there are some significant dimensional differences
between the jigs. I'd call Snowline and see what they may come up with for
you. IMO that would be a far better solution than cutting into the cowl, at the
very minimum you wouldn't be making a CG problem worse.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 8/30/06, _Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) <_
Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) > wrote:
Barry,
No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is no way to
get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I understand that
washers can make a big difference. Since the distance between the mounts is
about half the length of the engine it should make about a 2 to 1 difference,
maybe a little more due to the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal mount.
What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to add about
3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the hinges and adding
some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I say this because I don't have
room enough in front for the way the baffle is made. There is the FAB
induction box and air cleaner which limits me from trimming the baffle in front.
Also, the alternator is getting very close to the cowl. Moving the whole
cowling forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo this when building the
plane and it is not too bad. The worst thing is messing up the paint job. I
have a new nose wheel fairing and gear leg fairing that need to be painted
anyway. I will probably be flying it with primer patches for a while.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
_FLYaDIVE@aol.com_ (mailto:FLYaDIVE@aol.com) writes:
In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
_Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) writes:
Do you know of any problem like this between cases?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
======
Hi Dan:
Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases.
I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems.
When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the
back to effect things at the front.
Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will make a
difference?
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
="_ http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List_
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) ">_http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List _
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) _blank" onclick="return
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://forums.matronics.com
_ronics.com/_ (http://ronics.com/) ">_ http://wiki.matronics.com_
(http://wiki.matronics.com/)
://www.matronics.com/contribution"> ="return
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page,
ronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" target="_blank" onclick="return
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">
" onclick="return
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
k" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> turn
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://forums.matronics.com "return
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> rn
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://wiki.matronics.com -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">_
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(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Engine mount out of spec |
Bob,
I called Snowline Mfg. and they said that they don't make RV engine mounts.
Does anyone know who does?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 8/30/2006 12:41:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
rocketbob@gmail.com writes:
Dan, I would explore sending the mount back to Vans for a refund and get a
"custom" mount made by Snowline Mfg. in Oregon, who build the mounts for
Van's. It may be possible to make a mount to your specs using the factory jigs,
all they'd have to do is put some washers in under the firewall attach points
when they bolt those pieces into the jig (and build up the mount from there).
Assuming some of the other fixtures of the jig that hold the nosegear
socket are bolted to the jig base and those could be raised perpendicular to the
plane of the firewall as well. That would in effect shorten the length of
the mount if a new one were constructed to your specs. I did a lot of work
designing the jig and the 3rd generation of engine mounts for the F1, and have
stayed at a Holiday In Express. :) My guess is that there are several jigs in
use and it may be that there are some significant dimensional differences
between the jigs. I'd call Snowline and see what they may come up with for
you. IMO that would be a far better solution than cutting into the cowl, at the
very minimum you wouldn't be making a CG problem worse.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On 8/30/06, _Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) <_
Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) > wrote:
Barry,
No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is no way to
get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I understand that
washers can make a big difference. Since the distance between the mounts is
about half the length of the engine it should make about a 2 to 1 difference,
maybe a little more due to the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal mount.
What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to add about
3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the hinges and adding
some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I say this because I don't have
room enough in front for the way the baffle is made. There is the FAB
induction box and air cleaner which limits me from trimming the baffle in front.
Also, the alternator is getting very close to the cowl. Moving the whole
cowling forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo this when building the
plane and it is not too bad. The worst thing is messing up the paint job. I
have a new nose wheel fairing and gear leg fairing that need to be painted
anyway. I will probably be flying it with primer patches for a while.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
_FLYaDIVE@aol.com_ (mailto:FLYaDIVE@aol.com) writes:
In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time,
_Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) writes:
Do you know of any problem like this between cases?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
======
Hi Dan:
Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases.
I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems.
When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the
back to effect things at the front.
Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will make a
difference?
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
="_ http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List_
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) ">_http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List _
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) _blank" onclick="return
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://forums.matronics.com
_ronics.com/_ (http://ronics.com/) ">_ http://wiki.matronics.com_
(http://wiki.matronics.com/)
://www.matronics.com/contribution"> ="return
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page,
ronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" target="_blank" onclick="return
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">
" onclick="return
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List
k" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> turn
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://forums.matronics.com "return
top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> rn top.js.OpenExtLink(window,eve
nt,this)">http://wiki.matronics.com -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">_
http://www.matronics.com/contribution_ (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ==========
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
Message 23
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| Subject: | FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions |
OK, one of you geeks out there knows where to find such a device.... a
Windows CE driven camera. Go! Fetch! Good boy! ;-)
Vince
________________________________
From: Greg Toman - Grand Rapids Technologies, Inc.
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: video input/taxi camera and other questions
The ASI calibration is in the release Jeff and I are testing now. We
thought we would release it tomorrow, but it might be another couple of
days because I messed up the new function for defining missed approach
altitudes, decision altitudes, and a pre-set altitude for the vertical
nav function.
I checked into the camera thing (which by the way, we have had others
request). Our software engineer said that a web cam that plugs into our
USB port would provide us with video, but that he was unaware of any
webcams that include a driver for Windows CE (this is the embedded
version of windows that we use...it is quite different from the version
on your PC). So, all we need is the software driver. If you heard of
someonw that found a webcam that includes a Windows CE driver, find out
what camera that is, and let us know. This would be a free update.
I don't want to get you too excited though. If we can't find a camera
that includes the driver, we would need to write our own. This is not a
trival task, and a very rough estimate of the cost to do so is in the
range of $15,000-$30,000 worth of labor. We would only do this if we
thought we could earn that much back, which is unclear at this time. In
other words, don't count on it if we have to write the driver.
Interestingly, when I tested the winds aloft calc, my RV-6A was off by
less than 1 foot/sec at crusing speed. (I have Van's recommended static
and pitot ports.)
Thanks
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: Frazier, Vincent A <mailto:VFrazier@usi.edu>
To: Greg Toman - Grand Rapids Technologies, Inc.
<mailto:GregT@GRTavionics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 9:30 AM
Subject: video input/taxi camera and other questions
Greg,
After the TBM/RV-6 accident at Oshkosh, the email lists are on
fire with guys wanting taxi cameras. Someone at your booth at Oshkosh
mentioned that someone had a USB interface that would allow your EFIS
screen to show video. PLEASE tell us where and how to get it.
Right now, this would be a HUGE selling point.
Also, is the ASI calibration to correct the winds aloft
calculations ever going to be available? It's been almost 2 years since
we discussed it.
Vince
Message 24
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| Subject: | FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions |
http://www.bluechillies.com/details/16749.html
http://www.codecomments.com/archive425-2005-9-615836.html
http://www.windowsfordevices.com/articles/AT4566767075.html
http://www.gotdotnet.com/workspaces/workspace.aspx?id=0eb87e35-13e4-4fa3-9fd
e-71e9136f47de
http://web.tampabay.rr.com/vescovi/gumstix/gumstix%20RVTC/Rear%20View%20Todd
ler%20Cam2.doc
_____
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frazier, Vincent A
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 2:01 PM
Subject: RV-List: FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions
OK, one of you geeks out there knows where to find such a device.... a
Windows CE driven camera. Go! Fetch! Good boy! ;-)
Vince
_____
From: Greg Toman - Grand Rapids Technologies, Inc.
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 3:46 PM
Subject: Re: video input/taxi camera and other questions
The ASI calibration is in the release Jeff and I are testing now. We thought
we would release it tomorrow, but it might be another couple of days because
I messed up the new function for defining missed approach altitudes,
decision altitudes, and a pre-set altitude for the vertical nav function.
I checked into the camera thing (which by the way, we have had others
request). Our software engineer said that a web cam that plugs into our USB
port would provide us with video, but that he was unaware of any webcams
that include a driver for Windows CE (this is the embedded version of
windows that we use...it is quite different from the version on your PC).
So, all we need is the software driver. If you heard of someonw that found a
webcam that includes a Windows CE driver, find out what camera that is, and
let us know. This would be a free update.
I don't want to get you too excited though. If we can't find a camera that
includes the driver, we would need to write our own. This is not a trival
task, and a very rough estimate of the cost to do so is in the range of
$15,000-$30,000 worth of labor. We would only do this if we thought we could
earn that much back, which is unclear at this time. In other words, don't
count on it if we have to write the driver.
Interestingly, when I tested the winds aloft calc, my RV-6A was off by less
than 1 foot/sec at crusing speed. (I have Van's recommended static and pitot
ports.)
Thanks
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From: Frazier, Vincent A <mailto:VFrazier@usi.edu>
Inc.
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 9:30 AM
Subject: video input/taxi camera and other questions
Greg,
After the TBM/RV-6 accident at Oshkosh, the email lists are on fire with
guys wanting taxi cameras. Someone at your booth at Oshkosh mentioned that
someone had a USB interface that would allow your EFIS screen to show video.
PLEASE tell us where and how to get it.
Right now, this would be a HUGE selling point.
Also, is the ASI calibration to correct the winds aloft calculations ever
going to be available? It's been almost 2 years since we discussed it.
Vince
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Eberhart <steve@newtech.com>
Oh, I don't know. Maybe we could google "web cam + windows CE driver"
and get something like:
http://www.gotdotnet.com/workspaces/workspace.aspx?id=0eb87e35-13e4-4fa3-9fde-71e9136f47de
http://msdn.microsoft.com/embedded/usewinemb/ce/sharedsrccode/USBDriver/default.aspx
http://www.windowsfordevices.com/news/NS7191593413.html
http://blogs.msdn.com/mikehall/archive/2006/03/08/546465.aspx
This is a start, let me know how it progresses. THis could turn me from
the Dynon Flightdek 180 to the Grand Rapids units.
Steve EBerhart
RV-7A
razier, Vincent A wrote:
>
> OK, one of you geeks out there knows where to find such a device.... a
> Windows CE driven camera. Go! Fetch! Good boy! ;-)
>
> Vince
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From:* Greg Toman - Grand Rapids Technologies, Inc.
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 30, 2006 3:46 PM
> *To:* Frazier, Vincent A
> *Subject:* Re: video input/taxi camera and other questions
>
> The ASI calibration is in the release Jeff and I are testing now. We
> thought we would release it tomorrow, but it might be another couple
> of days because I messed up the new function for defining missed
> approach altitudes, decision altitudes, and a pre-set altitude for the
> vertical nav function.
>
> I checked into the camera thing (which by the way, we have had others
> request). Our software engineer said that a web cam that plugs into
> our USB port would provide us with video, but that he was unaware of
> any webcams that include a driver for Windows CE (this is the embedded
> version of windows that we use...it is quite different from the
> version on your PC). So, all we need is the software driver. If you
> heard of someonw that found a webcam that includes a Windows CE
> driver, find out what camera that is, and let us know. This would be
> a free update.
>
> I don't want to get you too excited though. If we can't find a camera
> that includes the driver, we would need to write our own. This is not
> a trival task, and a very rough estimate of the cost to do so is in
> the range of $15,000-$30,000 worth of labor. We would only do this if
> we thought we could earn that much back, which is unclear at this
> time. In other words, don't count on it if we have to write the driver.
>
> Interestingly, when I tested the winds aloft calc, my RV-6A was off by
> less than 1 foot/sec at crusing speed. (I have Van's recommended
> static and pitot ports.)
>
> Thanks
> Greg
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Frazier, Vincent A <mailto:VFrazier@usi.edu>
> *To:* Greg Toman - Grand Rapids Technologies, Inc.
> <mailto:GregT@GRTavionics.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 30, 2006 9:30 AM
> *Subject:* video input/taxi camera and other questions
>
> Greg,
>
> After the TBM/RV-6 accident at Oshkosh, the email lists are on
> fire with guys wanting taxi cameras. Someone at your booth at
> Oshkosh mentioned that someone had a USB interface that would
> allow your EFIS screen to show video. PLEASE tell us where and
> how to get it.
>
> Right now, this would be a HUGE selling point.
>
> Also, is the ASI calibration to correct the winds aloft
> calculations ever going to be available? It's been almost 2 years
> since we discussed it.
>
> Vince
>
>*
>
>
>*
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
At 12:45 PM 8/30/2006, you wrote:
>> Vans does update errors in the plans. However, if he has 1000
>> sets of plans already printed out, the error won't be fixed till
>> the next printing cycle. He has Dutch genes, after all.
>>Charlie Kuss
>
>And an errata sheet(s) costs how much?
>
>Ron Lee
>
>Do not archive
Ron,
It costs $15 a year. It's called the RVator. I believe that Doug
Reeves also posts all the revisions listed in the RVator issues on
his web site. That costs nothing but a little effort from the builder.
Charlie Kuss
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
OK rivet heads! Here's your chance to help educate me! I have acquired
a lot of rivets ....... bags of them .... without any ID on them at all.
How do you identify the rivets with their AN number???? They do appear
to be aviation grade. How can you tell what the hardness of the rivet
is??? Do you need to know????
Linn
do not archive
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Van's Wheel Fairings |
I have Goodyear Custom II tires and they also maintain their
shape.....stiff well made sidewalls.
Tom in
Ohio RV6-A
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry Grimmonpre
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 9:48 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Wheel Fairings
Does anyone know the difference between Goodyear Custom III tires and
the earlier Custom II tires?
Many thanks ....
Jerry Grimmonpre'
----- Original Message -----
From: Charlie Kuss
To: rv-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Wheel Fairings
Dick
Two questions.
Can you recommend any other name brand tires besides Goodyear?
What speed gain did you see by using the Sam James wheel pants?
Charlie Kuss
Derrick,
When I built my RV8 in 1999, I experimented with several
wheelpant and tire variations. My objective was to obtain the most
speed and the least drag possible. I found out that when I used any of
the various cheap tires, I needed at least a 1/2 inch clearance around
the tire casing, because when landing etc. the cheap tires would expand
and rub the wheelpant. I solved the problem by installing Goodyear
Custom III tires and tubes. The Custom III series has a much stiffer
tred and side casing and holds its shape even with a hard landing.
Note: the lower (closer to ground) you install the wheel pant, the
faster you will go.
I tried Vans pressure recovery pants first and then went to Sam
James pressure recovery pants because they went faster and looked
better.
Good luck with your project.
Dick Martin
RV8 N233M
the fast one
1350 hours - it gets better every day
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com
In a message dated 8/30/06 6:48:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net writes:
> OK rivet heads! Here's your chance to help educate me! I have acquired
> a lot of rivets ....... bags of them .... without any ID on them at all.
> How do you identify the rivets with their AN number???? They do appear
> to be aviation grade. How can you tell what the hardness of the rivet
> is??? Do you need to know????
> Linn
>
======================
Hi Linn:
I did not know you were o this group!
Start with the angle of the flush rivets, they should be 100 Deg.
Then there is a gage you can get for the diameter. It may even have length.
There are also rivets with a dimple on the head. Separate them into a
separate group also.
Now, the rest of the information is located in the AC 43-13
4-57. Riveting 4-14
Figure 4-4. Rivet Identification and Part Number Breakdown 4-16
Table 4-8. Aircraft Rivet Identification 4-17
There is also information on Hardened, Oversized and Frozen Rivets.
Barry
"Chop'd Liver"
"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third
time."
Yamashiada
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Sam James fiberglass video |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@coltnet.net>
Andy,
I caved in an bought the dvd from you. Plus a few other things. Thanks for
the website
Dave
----- Original Message -----
From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <agold@actechbooks.com>
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:27 AM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Sam James fiberglass video
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company"
> <agold@actechbooks.com>
>
> Builder's Bookstore has them in stock
> http://www.buildersbooks.com/fiberglass_101.htm?19,52
>
> Andy
> 800 780-4115
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave" <dave@coltnet.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 10:37 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Sam James fiberglass video
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" <dave@coltnet.net>
>>
>> Listers
>>
>> Anyone have a Sam James fiberglass dvd there are ready to sell?
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> Do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doc Custer" <ddcuster@wmv-co.us>
Yes, you need to know the hardness (alloy & heat treatment if any) of
rivets.
Rivets are marked with a device on the head. One dimple is alloy AD, which
is the one Van's uses. FAA publication AC43-13 has a list with the head
devices and the tensile strengths. Probably more than you wanted to know.
Cheers,
Doc Custer
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn Walters" <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 4:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: rivets
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters <pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net>
>
> OK rivet heads! Here's your chance to help educate me! I have acquired
> a lot of rivets ....... bags of them .... without any ID on them at all.
> How do you identify the rivets with their AN number???? They do appear
> to be aviation grade. How can you tell what the hardness of the rivet
> is??? Do you need to know????
> Linn
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
Whoops. Forgot to mention that the last time a revision in plans appeared in
the RVator was early 2004 (this doesn't include already published service
bulletins). Before that, there was a revision (the allowance of welding in
the aileron pushrod) in mid 2003. I'm missing two issues so don't bet the
house that these stats are correct.
But I *did* notice after early 2005, that not as many revisions were
appearing in RVator as had up until that time (there used to be amount one
per month). That could mean that there was nothing to revise or maybe they
just needed the space for a Tom Greene bike-riding story. (g)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:53 PM
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in |
--> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley <lifeofreiley2003@yahoo.com>
This thread equals about 500 rivets that could have be
set? I say rivet on. If you want to offer a price to
buy Van's booming business... well
Darrell
--- Bob Collins <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins"
> <bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net>
>
> Whoops. Forgot to mention that the last time a
> revision in plans appeared in
> the RVator was early 2004 (this doesn't include
> already published service
> bulletins). Before that, there was a revision (the
> allowance of welding in
> the aileron pushrod) in mid 2003. I'm missing two
> issues so don't bet the
> house that these stats are correct.
>
> But I *did* notice after early 2005, that not as
> many revisions were
> appearing in RVator as had up until that time (there
> used to be amount one
> per month). That could mean that there was nothing
> to revise or maybe they
> just needed the space for a Tom Greene bike-riding
> story. (g)
>
> Do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On
> Behalf Of Bob Collins
> Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:53 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rant, question,
> suggestion: errors in
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
> Web Forums!
>
>
> Admin.
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________________________
Message 35
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| Subject: | elevator balance weight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Howdy list,
I've rebuilt the elevators on our 6 due to pedestrian damage. I went
with the .020 skins (previously .016) and am using the heavier lead
counterbalance weights recommended for these skins. Pre-paint, the left
elevator balances with only about an ounce or two on the trailing edge
while the right elevator is considerably more nose heavy without the
trim tab and associated structure. I'd like to remove some of the extra
weight from the right elevator before I rivet on the tip and paint, but
I'm concerned that the left elevator won't have enough c-balance weight
and I'll need extra on the right side to do the final balance on the
whole assembly rather than balancing each individually. I know that it
all depends on how heavy the paint is and I'm not sure what that will
be.
How much did you have to remove from the weights on your airplane to get
it to balance after paint? Did the left elevator have enough weight or
did it need make up weight on the other elevator?
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
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