---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 08/30/06: 35 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:36 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 2. 01:58 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (FLYaDIVE@aol.com) 3. 04:12 AM - Re: Attaching floors with nutplates. (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 4. 05:08 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Charlie Kuss) 5. 05:08 AM - Re: Van's Wheel Fairings (Charlie Kuss) 6. 06:06 AM - Re:TRUTRACK ADI Pilot 1 (PGLong@aol.com) 7. 06:49 AM - Re: Van's Wheel Fairings (Jerry Grimmonpre) 8. 06:52 AM - Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (kitfoxmike) 9. 07:09 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 10. 07:12 AM - Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (kitfoxmike) 11. 07:37 AM - Re: longer spinner, was Engine mount out of spec (glen matejcek) 12. 08:32 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (FLYaDIVE@aol.com) 13. 08:32 AM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Charlie Kuss) 14. 09:22 AM - Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (kitfoxmike) 15. 09:32 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Charlie Kuss) 16. 09:38 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Bob J.) 17. 09:46 AM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Ron Lee) 18. 09:46 AM - Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Jerry2DT@aol.com) 19. 11:22 AM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Dana Overall) 20. 12:07 PM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 21. 12:08 PM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 22. 12:19 PM - Re: Engine mount out of spec (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 23. 02:01 PM - FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions (Frazier, Vincent A) 24. 02:52 PM - Re: FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions (Jerry Hansen) 25. 03:05 PM - Re: FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions (Steve Eberhart) 26. 03:37 PM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Charlie Kuss) 27. 03:46 PM - rivets (linn Walters) 28. 05:10 PM - Re: Van's Wheel Fairings (Tom & Cathy Ervin) 29. 05:40 PM - Re: rivets (FLYaDIVE@aol.com) 30. 05:53 PM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net (Bob Collins)) 31. 05:53 PM - Re: Sam James fiberglass video (Dave) 32. 06:12 PM - Re: rivets (Doc Custer) 33. 06:29 PM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Bob Collins) 34. 07:09 PM - Re: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in (Darrell Reiley) 35. 10:50 PM - elevator balance weight (Ed Holyoke) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:36:03 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount out of spec Barry, Yes, they are Lord, I think. They are the from Vans. But, they are the exact same ones I had on the other mount and in the same positions. When I took the engine off the mount, I put each set in a separate zip-lock bag and labeled it. I referred to the plans again and put the high durometer mounts in the right locations -- just like I had them before. I kept them stacked just like I took them off and restarted the nuts. I'm very sure that there is no mistake here. There is one possibility. The engine case is not the same one, but a different IO-360-C1E6 off the shelf at Divco. I agreed to take a different case to speed up the turnaround. If I had it to do over again I wouldn't do this. I am using an IO-360-A1A sump and intake tubes on this engine, which I believe makes it an IO-360-A1D6. Do you know of any problem like this between cases? Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/29/2006 5:27:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes: --> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com In a message dated 8/29/06 10:16:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Hopperdhh@aol.com writes: > I called Van's to see if perhaps I was sent the wrong mount. I was told > that this spec on the mounts was +/- 1/16 inch, and there must be something > else causing the problem. Since I am using the same everything else, I can't > see what else it could be. With the engine mounted and 2 weeks of connecting > up everything already done, I am stuck. ================================= Dan: Before you go through all that work, I would check one thing ... Check to see if you have the thrust washers on in the correct order and correct location. I have more info but first I need to know which engine and who's vibration mounts? They wouldn't happen to be Lord? Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 01:58:13 AM PST US From: FLYaDIVE@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount out of spec In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, Hopperdhh@aol.com writes: Do you know of any problem like this between cases? Dan Hopper RV-7A =============================== Hi Dan: Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases. I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems. When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the back to effect things at the front. Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will make a difference? Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:12:56 AM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Attaching floors with nutplates. In a message dated 08/29/2006 9:11:33 PM Central Daylight Time, FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes: If you are away from home and need to do a little maintenance or something works its way down into no-man's land >>> I keep a small 1/4" ratchet and each of the bits/sockets for most routine items on my plane in my on-board toolkit, which is a single Shure microphone bag about the size of a small shaving kit that essentially vainishes on the floor between the seats on my -6A. There are also several spare Torx screws of each size I use in there too. (also tie-down rings, electrical tape, wingjack blocks and basic tools to remove all access covers, cowling, pants and do most away-from-home chores- no spare engine or kitchen sink tho...) >From The PossumWorks in TN Mark Phillips - N51PW "Mojo" with LOTS of Torx screws on board! ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:08:01 AM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount out of spec Dan, Vans does not sell Lord or Barry brand mounts. The mount kit they supply is made by VIP, Vibration Isolation Products. Charlie Kuss >Barry, > >Yes, they are Lord, I think. They are the from Vans. But, they are >the exact same ones I had on the other mount and in the same >positions. When I took the engine off the mount, I put each set in >a separate zip-lock bag and labeled it. I referred to the plans >again and put the high durometer mounts in the right locations -- >just like I had them before. I kept them stacked just like I took >them off and restarted the nuts. I'm very sure that there is no mistake here. > >There is one possibility. The engine case is not the same one, but >a different IO-360-C1E6 off the shelf at Divco. I agreed to take a >different case to speed up the turnaround. If I had it to do over >again I wouldn't do this. I am using an IO-360-A1A sump and intake >tubes on this engine, which I believe makes it an IO-360-A1D6. Do >you know of any problem like this between cases? > >Dan Hopper >RV-7A > > >In a message dated 8/29/2006 5:27:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, >FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes: >--> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com > >In a message dated 8/29/06 10:16:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, >Hopperdhh@aol.com writes: > > > I called Van's to see if perhaps I was sent the wrong mount. I was told > > that this spec on the mounts was +/- 1/16 inch, and there must be >something > > else causing the problem. Since I am using the same everything else, I >can't > > see what else it could be. With the engine mounted and 2 weeks of >connecting > > up everything already done, I am stuck. >================================= >Dan: > >Before you go through all that work, I would check one thing ... Check to see >if you have the thrust washers on in the correct order and correct location. > >I have more info but first I need to know which engine and who's vibration >mounts? They wouldn't happen to be Lord? > >Barry >"Chop'd Liver" > >"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third >time." es Day --> - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS - >bsp; --> nbsp; - NEW MATRONICS LIST WIKI - >; ======================== > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 05:08:01 AM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Wheel Fairings Dick Two questions. Can you recommend any other name brand tires besides Goodyear? What speed gain did you see by using the Sam James wheel pants? Charlie Kuss >Derrick, >When I built my RV8 in 1999, I experimented with several wheelpant >and tire variations. My objective was to obtain the most speed and >the least drag possible. I found out that when I used any of the >various cheap tires, I needed at least a 1/2 inch clearance around >the tire casing, because when landing etc. the cheap tires would >expand and rub the wheelpant. I solved the problem by installing >Goodyear Custom III tires and tubes. The Custom III series has a >much stiffer tred and side casing and holds its shape even with a >hard landing. Note: the lower (closer to ground) you install the >wheel pant, the faster you will go. >I tried Vans pressure recovery pants first and then went to Sam >James pressure recovery pants because they went faster and looked better. >Good luck with your project. >Dick Martin >RV8 N233M >the fast one >1350 hours - it gets better every day >----- Original Message ----- >From: Derrick Aubuchon >To: RV List >Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2006 9:44 AM >Subject: RV-List: Van's Wheel Fairings > >I am replacing (finally!) my original, old style wheel fairings, for >Van's "new" Pressure Recovery fairings. >Any ideas on what works best for a minimal tire-to-faring clearance >around the lower opening? > >Thanks, > > >Derrick L. Aubuchon > >RV-4: N184DA (450+ hrs) > >Jackson/Westover -Amador County (O70) > >n184da@volcano.net > > >com/Navigator?RV-List > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:06:16 AM PST US From: PGLong@aol.com Subject: Re:RV-List: TRUTRACK ADI Pilot 1 Ian Just added a TruTrak ADI Pilot II, two axis pilot to my RV-4. Make sure you get the Pilot II, and not the Pilot I, or you will end up with a single axis pilot. I don't know why it took me so long to decide to do this. What a superb instrument. Pat Long PGLong@aol.com N120PL RV4 Bay City, Michigan 3CM Do Not Archive ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:49:30 AM PST US From: "Jerry Grimmonpre" Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Wheel Fairings Does anyone know the difference between Goodyear Custom III tires and the earlier Custom II tires? Many thanks .... Jerry Grimmonpre' ----- Original Message ----- From: Charlie Kuss To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:04 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Wheel Fairings Dick Two questions. Can you recommend any other name brand tires besides Goodyear? What speed gain did you see by using the Sam James wheel pants? Charlie Kuss Derrick, When I built my RV8 in 1999, I experimented with several wheelpant and tire variations. My objective was to obtain the most speed and the least drag possible. I found out that when I used any of the various cheap tires, I needed at least a 1/2 inch clearance around the tire casing, because when landing etc. the cheap tires would expand and rub the wheelpant. I solved the problem by installing Goodyear Custom III tires and tubes. The Custom III series has a much stiffer tred and side casing and holds its shape even with a hard landing. Note: the lower (closer to ground) you install the wheel pant, the faster you will go. I tried Vans pressure recovery pants first and then went to Sam James pressure recovery pants because they went faster and looked better. Good luck with your project. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one 1350 hours - it gets better every day ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 06:52:07 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in From: "kitfoxmike" --> RV-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" FORD found on road dead -------- kitfoxmike kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike rv7 wingkit reserved 287RV Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58476#58476 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 07:09:00 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount out of spec Barry, No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is no way to get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I understand that washers can make a big difference. Since the distance between the mounts is about half the length of the engine it should make about a 2 to 1 difference, maybe a little more due to the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal mount. What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to add about 3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the hinges and adding some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I say this because I don't have room enough in front for the way the baffle is made. There is the FAB induction box and air cleaner which limits me from trimming the baffle in front. Also, the alternator is getting very close to the cowl. Moving the whole cowling forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo this when building the plane and it is not too bad. The worst thing is messing up the paint job. I have a new nose wheel fairing and gear leg fairing that need to be painted anyway. I will probably be flying it with primer patches for a while. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes: In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, Hopperdhh@aol.com writes: Do you know of any problem like this between cases? Dan Hopper RV-7A =============================== Hi Dan: Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases. I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems. When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the back to effect things at the front. Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will make a difference? Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 07:12:00 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in From: "kitfoxmike" --> RV-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" I would like to add some info here that might seem surprising. In the auto field the manuals, and I'm talking the factory manuals, have a 30% error. Now the aftermarket manuals just take from these manuals as well so they are also 30% in error. This was told to me by the factory reps. What do I do. Well if I look in a manual and it doesn't seem right, it probably isn't, so I'm careful. I guess we just need to be smart and research when things are not right on these planes. And yes I do believe vans should be posting on their web site the problems, I feel it would make their job a lot easier. But then again it just might give them a bad rep for a person looking into buying a kit and their just not willing to take the risk of admitting to not doing a very good job. I know, sounds a bit stuppid in thinking, but there are people that look at things that way. I know they should be worried about us, but we already took the plunge and started buying the kits, so, they don't care about us people, they care about future sales, or the first sale more. I'm thinking marketing here nothing more. -------- kitfoxmike kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike rv7 wingkit reserved 287RV Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58486#58486 ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 07:37:23 AM PST US From: "glen matejcek" Subject: RV-List: RE: longer spinner, was Engine mount out of spec --> RV-List message posted by: "glen matejcek" Hi Dan- My spinner ( a couple years old) had about an eighth inch of protrusion beyond the backplate, and it was a clean cut edge. Perhaps you could contact the manufacturer and get one that they haven't trimmed yet, or even one that is made a bit longer intentionally. FWIW, glen matejcek aerobubba@earthlink.net ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:32:17 AM PST US From: FLYaDIVE@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount out of spec OK, Dan: One more trick ... This may not look the best but it does work and of course you can go fancy and improve the idea... Get a piece of 1/2" Pipe insulation foam. Cut it length wise in half so now you have something that look like a 'C' With the 'C' facing OUT (towards you), glue one part of the 'C' to the cowl and let the other part fit up against the spinner. The glue to use is 3M's Weather Stripping Adhesive (Red & White tube / box). This will seal the gap between the spinner and the cowl. Don't worry about it being bigger than the gap. The spinning of the spinner will ware it to exact fit in a few minutes. And if you want to paint the foam, yes it is paintable. The advantage are: 1 - Seals off an area of lost air. 2 - Increases the positive air pressure in the upper cowl. 3 - Adds to the cooling and 4 - Makes for a better look than a huge gap. Now, the pipe insulation can be replace with a thick neoprene cut into an 'O' ring. I have this configuration on a Grumman, used it for 9 years, it only needed replacing once in 9 years. And the scary thing is ... IT WORKS! Barry =============================================================== Barry, No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is no way to get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I understand that washers can make a big difference. Since the distance between the mounts is about half the length of the engine it should make about a 2 to 1 difference, maybe a little more due to the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal mount. What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to add about 3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the hinges and adding some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I say this because I don't have room enough in front for the way the baffle is made. There is the FAB induction box and air cleaner which limits me from trimming the baffle in front. Also, the alternator is getting very close to the cowl. Moving the whole cowling forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo this when building the plane and it is not too bad. The worst thing is messing up the paint job. I have a new nose wheel fairing and gear leg fairing that need to be painted anyway. I will probably be flying it with primer patches for a while. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes: In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, Hopperdhh@aol.com writes: Do you know of any problem like this between cases? Dan Hopper RV-7A =============================== Hi Dan: Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases. I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems. When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the back to effect things at the front. Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will make a difference? Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:32:17 AM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in At 10:11 AM 8/30/2006, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" > >I would like to add some info here that might seem surprising. In >the auto field the manuals, and I'm talking the factory manuals, >have a 30% error. Now the aftermarket manuals just take from these >manuals as well so they are also 30% in error. This was told to me >by the factory reps. >snipped >kitfoxmike >kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster >http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike >rv7 wingkit >reserved 287RV I'll second Mike's observation about errors in automotive tech info. I do this for a living and it can be maddening. I'd also like to mention that you don't get "step by step" instructions in these manuals either. The authors assume that the person doing the work has enough training to figure out HOW to remove or install a particular part or assembly which needs to be removed or installed, as part of a larger project. Like everyone else, I've spotted a number of small errors on my 8A plans. A local RV4 builder/owner coined a term for being bit in the butt by an error in the plans. He calls it being VANdalized. :-) After seeing my pre-punched 8A kit, he told me I had the "girls" kit. I got the lecture about earlier builders having to mine their own Bauxite, in the snow, trudging up hill, both ways, in June, etc, etc. I spent 4 months helping Jody build his RV4. He was correct, the older plans were nowhere near as good. He says that compared to today's plans, his RV4 instructions were "mere vague suggestions". Still, he finished it, and did a great job of it. I have a lot of respect for the builders of RV4s and early RV6s like Jody Edwards and Jerry Springer. For builders of RV3s, like Alex Sloan, all I can say is "We are not worthy"! :-) I was the winner in giving Jody 4 months of free help. He taught me a lot more than I helped him. Folks starting out without a good skill set, could do worse than to offer to help another builder. It will be time well spent. Vans does update errors in the plans. However, if he has 1000 sets of plans already printed out, the error won't be fixed till the next printing cycle. He has Dutch genes, after all. Charlie Kuss ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:22:00 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in From: "kitfoxmike" --> RV-List message posted by: "kitfoxmike" He has Dutch genes. Oh my, that xplains everything. The first person I worked for in the auto industry was Dutch, boy was he frugal. Great guy. -------- kitfoxmike kitfox4 1200 912ul speedster http://www.frappr.com/kitfoxmike rv7 wingkit reserved 287RV Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=58531#58531 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:32:02 AM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount out of spec Dan, Just a thought to consider. I know that Divco offers to modify Dynafocal type II cases to type I specification. I would think that this would require material to be machined from the rear of the case at this point. Perhaps if this was done to your cases, it could explain the gap. Perhaps a phone call to the shop who overhauled the crankcases is in order? Charlie Kuss >Barry, > >No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is >no way to get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I >understand that washers can make a big difference. Since the >distance between the mounts is about half the length of the engine >it should make about a 2 to 1 difference, maybe a little more due to >the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal mount. > >What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to >add about 3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the >hinges and adding some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I >say this because I don't have room enough in front for the way the >baffle is made. There is the FAB induction box and air cleaner >which limits me from trimming the baffle in front. Also, the >alternator is getting very close to the cowl. Moving the whole >cowling forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo this when >building the plane and it is not too bad. The worst thing is >messing up the paint job. I have a new nose wheel fairing and gear >leg fairing that need to be painted anyway. I will probably be >flying it with primer patches for a while. > >Dan Hopper >RV-7A > > >In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, >FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes: >In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, >Hopperdhh@aol.com writes: >Do you know of any problem like this between cases? > >Dan Hopper >RV-7A > >=============================== >Hi Dan: > >Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases. >I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems. >When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at >the back to effect things at the front. > >Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers >will make a difference? > >Barry >"Chop'd Liver" > >"Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third >time." >Yamashiada > > >="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List > >.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com > >ronics.com/">http://wiki.matronics.com > >://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 09:38:28 AM PST US From: "Bob J." Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount out of spec Dan, I would explore sending the mount back to Vans for a refund and get a "custom" mount made by Snowline Mfg. in Oregon, who build the mounts for Van's. It may be possible to make a mount to your specs using the factory jigs, all they'd have to do is put some washers in under the firewall attach points when they bolt those pieces into the jig (and build up the mount from there). Assuming some of the other fixtures of the jig that hold the nosegear socket are bolted to the jig base and those could be raised perpendicular to the plane of the firewall as well. That would in effect shorten the length of the mount if a new one were constructed to your specs. I did a lot of work designing the jig and the 3rd generation of engine mounts for the F1, and have stayed at a Holiday In Express. :) My guess is that there are several jigs in use and it may be that there are some significant dimensional differences between the jigs. I'd call Snowline and see what they may come up with for you. IMO that would be a far better solution than cutting into the cowl, at the very minimum you wouldn't be making a CG problem worse. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On 8/30/06, Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote: > > Barry, > > No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is no way > to get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I understand that > washers can make a big difference. Since the distance between the mounts is > about half the length of the engine it should make about a 2 to 1 > difference, maybe a little more due to the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal > mount. > > What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to add > about 3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the hinges and > adding some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I say this because I > don't have room enough in front for the way the baffle is made. There is > the FAB induction box and air cleaner which limits me from trimming the > baffle in front. Also, the alternator is getting very close to the cowl. > Moving the whole cowling forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo > this when building the plane and it is not too bad. The worst thing is > messing up the paint job. I have a new nose wheel fairing and gear leg > fairing that need to be painted anyway. I will probably be flying it with > primer patches for a while. > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A > > > In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > FLYaDIVE@aol.com writes: > > In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, > Hopperdhh@aol.com writes: > > Do you know of any problem like this between cases? > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A > > =============================== > Hi Dan: > > Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases. > I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING > problems. > When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the > back to effect things at the front. > > Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will > make a difference? > > Barry > "Chop'd Liver" > > "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the > third > time." > Yamashiada > > ** > > *="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List"> > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List .matronics.com/"> > http://forums.matronics.com ronics.com/">http://wiki.matronics.com* > ** *://www.matronics.com/contribution"> > > > * > > > * > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 09:46:55 AM PST US From: Ron Lee Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in > > Vans does update errors in the plans. However, if he has 1000 sets of > plans already printed out, the error won't be fixed till the next > printing cycle. He has Dutch genes, after all. >Charlie Kuss And an errata sheet(s) costs how much? Ron Lee Do not archive ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 09:46:58 AM PST US From: Jerry2DT@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in Jerry, Try Transparts out on Division St. in Portland. (503) 235-6672... That's where we used to sub out our tranny work. Good people, honest, sensible pricing. BTW, what flavor KOOL-AID do you prefer? I luv cherry meself... LOL!!! DO NOT ARCHIVE!!! Jerry Cochran In a message dated 8/30/2006 12:01:32 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time, rv-list@matronics.com writes: Time: 06:01:47 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer kitfoxmike wrote: >well I do have a transmission shop and build todays transmissions and do the computer systems and electronics. > > >-------- >kitfoxmike > > Darn wish you lived closer the transmission is going out in my 2002 Ford (Fix Or Repair Daily) Ranger 4x4. :-) Jerry do not archive ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 11:22:31 AM PST US From: "Dana Overall" Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount out of spec --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" Dan, if you do choose to extend the aft portion of your firewall, let me give you some advice from my plastic airplane building days. Find a local custom gutter company, the ones with the forming machine on a trailer. Get a couple scrap pieces of the flat stocklong enough to go wrap completely around the aft of the cowl. Wax either surface very well and rivet this to the outside of the cowl, extend aft your desired distance. This material flexes and bends very, very easily. Now you have surface flush with the outside edge of your cowl that is used to blend the addition on quite nicely. Go to playing with glass, let dry, drill the rivets out and pop the form off the cowl. All you should have to do now is fill in the gap left between the cowl and your addition. After all this, you probably know of another method:-), but gutter scrap has been used in the plastic world extensively. Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4 http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html do not archive _________________________________________________________________ Check the weather nationwide with MSN Search: Try it now! http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=weather&FORM=WLMTAG ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 12:07:40 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount out of spec Dana, Thanks very very much! That would make this a lot easier than how I was going to do it. I am going to take Bob's advice and see if the engine mount can be modified because he is right about the cg. That would also save me a lot of paint work. The plane is already nose heavy, and this should only move it about another 1/8 inch forward, but that is in the wrong direction. Thanks again, Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/30/2006 2:24:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, bo124rs@hotmail.com writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" Dan, if you do choose to extend the aft portion of your firewall, let me give you some advice from my plastic airplane building days. Find a local custom gutter company, the ones with the forming machine on a trailer. Get a couple scrap pieces of the flat stocklong enough to go wrap completely around the aft of the cowl. Wax either surface very well and rivet this to the outside of the cowl, extend aft your desired distance. This material flexes and bends very, very easily. Now you have surface flush with the outside edge of your cowl that is used to blend the addition on quite nicely. Go to playing with glass, let dry, drill the rivets out and pop the form off the cowl. All you should have to do now is fill in the gap left between the cowl and your addition. After all this, you probably know of another method:-), but gutter scrap has been used in the plastic world extensively. Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" O 360 A1A, C/S C2YK-1BF/F7666A4 http://rvflying.tripod.com/id30.html do not archive ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 12:08:55 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount out of spec Bob, Good advice. I will see if a search will locate them. Thanks, Dan do not archive In a message dated 8/30/2006 12:41:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rocketbob@gmail.com writes: Dan, I would explore sending the mount back to Vans for a refund and get a "custom" mount made by Snowline Mfg. in Oregon, who build the mounts for Van's. It may be possible to make a mount to your specs using the factory jigs, all they'd have to do is put some washers in under the firewall attach points when they bolt those pieces into the jig (and build up the mount from there). Assuming some of the other fixtures of the jig that hold the nosegear socket are bolted to the jig base and those could be raised perpendicular to the plane of the firewall as well. That would in effect shorten the length of the mount if a new one were constructed to your specs. I did a lot of work designing the jig and the 3rd generation of engine mounts for the F1, and have stayed at a Holiday In Express. :) My guess is that there are several jigs in use and it may be that there are some significant dimensional differences between the jigs. I'd call Snowline and see what they may come up with for you. IMO that would be a far better solution than cutting into the cowl, at the very minimum you wouldn't be making a CG problem worse. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On 8/30/06, _Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) <_ Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) > wrote: Barry, No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is no way to get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I understand that washers can make a big difference. Since the distance between the mounts is about half the length of the engine it should make about a 2 to 1 difference, maybe a little more due to the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal mount. What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to add about 3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the hinges and adding some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I say this because I don't have room enough in front for the way the baffle is made. There is the FAB induction box and air cleaner which limits me from trimming the baffle in front. Also, the alternator is getting very close to the cowl. Moving the whole cowling forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo this when building the plane and it is not too bad. The worst thing is messing up the paint job. I have a new nose wheel fairing and gear leg fairing that need to be painted anyway. I will probably be flying it with primer patches for a while. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, _FLYaDIVE@aol.com_ (mailto:FLYaDIVE@aol.com) writes: In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, _Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) writes: Do you know of any problem like this between cases? Dan Hopper RV-7A ====== Hi Dan: Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases. I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems. When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the back to effect things at the front. Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will make a difference? Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada ="_ http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List_ (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) ">_http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List _ (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) _blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://forums.matronics.com _ronics.com/_ (http://ronics.com/) ">_ http://wiki.matronics.com_ (http://wiki.matronics.com/) ://www.matronics.com/contribution"> ="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://www.matronics.com/contribution the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page, ronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" target="_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> " onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List k" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> turn top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://forums.matronics.com "return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> rn top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://wiki.matronics.com -Matt Dralle, List Admin. _blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">_ http://www.matronics.com/contribution_ (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ========== (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 12:19:30 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Engine mount out of spec Bob, I called Snowline Mfg. and they said that they don't make RV engine mounts. Does anyone know who does? Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/30/2006 12:41:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rocketbob@gmail.com writes: Dan, I would explore sending the mount back to Vans for a refund and get a "custom" mount made by Snowline Mfg. in Oregon, who build the mounts for Van's. It may be possible to make a mount to your specs using the factory jigs, all they'd have to do is put some washers in under the firewall attach points when they bolt those pieces into the jig (and build up the mount from there). Assuming some of the other fixtures of the jig that hold the nosegear socket are bolted to the jig base and those could be raised perpendicular to the plane of the firewall as well. That would in effect shorten the length of the mount if a new one were constructed to your specs. I did a lot of work designing the jig and the 3rd generation of engine mounts for the F1, and have stayed at a Holiday In Express. :) My guess is that there are several jigs in use and it may be that there are some significant dimensional differences between the jigs. I'd call Snowline and see what they may come up with for you. IMO that would be a far better solution than cutting into the cowl, at the very minimum you wouldn't be making a CG problem worse. Regards, Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On 8/30/06, _Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) <_ Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) > wrote: Barry, No, I have looked this thing over about a hundred times. There is no way to get 3/8 inch out from between the case and the mount. I understand that washers can make a big difference. Since the distance between the mounts is about half the length of the engine it should make about a 2 to 1 difference, maybe a little more due to the 30 degree angle of the dynafocal mount. What looks like my best alternative, all things considered, is to add about 3/8 inch at the rear of the cowl. This means removing the hinges and adding some glass around the cowl and refitting it. I say this because I don't have room enough in front for the way the baffle is made. There is the FAB induction box and air cleaner which limits me from trimming the baffle in front. Also, the alternator is getting very close to the cowl. Moving the whole cowling forward seems like the best bet. I had to redo this when building the plane and it is not too bad. The worst thing is messing up the paint job. I have a new nose wheel fairing and gear leg fairing that need to be painted anyway. I will probably be flying it with primer patches for a while. Dan Hopper RV-7A In a message dated 8/30/2006 5:00:00 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, _FLYaDIVE@aol.com_ (mailto:FLYaDIVE@aol.com) writes: In a message dated 8/30/2006 4:40:08 AM Eastern Standard Time, _Hopperdhh@aol.com_ (mailto:Hopperdhh@aol.com) writes: Do you know of any problem like this between cases? Dan Hopper RV-7A ====== Hi Dan: Sorry, I don't know of any problems between cases. I mention the Lord mounts because I have heard of WASHER STACKING problems. When setting up the thrust line it does not take much of a change at the back to effect things at the front. Just for S&G's ... DO you think swapping or removing the washers will make a difference? Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada ="_ http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List_ (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) ">_http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List _ (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) _blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://forums.matronics.com _ronics.com/_ (http://ronics.com/) ">_ http://wiki.matronics.com_ (http://wiki.matronics.com/) ://www.matronics.com/contribution"> ="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://www.matronics.com/contribution the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page, ronics.com/Navigator?RV-List" target="_blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> " onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List k" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> turn top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">http://forums.matronics.com "return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)"> rn top.js.OpenExtLink(window,eve nt,this)">http://wiki.matronics.com -Matt Dralle, List Admin. _blank" onclick="return top.js.OpenExtLink(window,event,this)">_ http://www.matronics.com/contribution_ (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ========== (http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV-List) (http://www.matronics.com/contribution) ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 02:01:26 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions From: "Frazier, Vincent A" OK, one of you geeks out there knows where to find such a device.... a Windows CE driven camera. Go! Fetch! Good boy! ;-) Vince ________________________________ From: Greg Toman - Grand Rapids Technologies, Inc. Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 3:46 PM Subject: Re: video input/taxi camera and other questions The ASI calibration is in the release Jeff and I are testing now. We thought we would release it tomorrow, but it might be another couple of days because I messed up the new function for defining missed approach altitudes, decision altitudes, and a pre-set altitude for the vertical nav function. I checked into the camera thing (which by the way, we have had others request). Our software engineer said that a web cam that plugs into our USB port would provide us with video, but that he was unaware of any webcams that include a driver for Windows CE (this is the embedded version of windows that we use...it is quite different from the version on your PC). So, all we need is the software driver. If you heard of someonw that found a webcam that includes a Windows CE driver, find out what camera that is, and let us know. This would be a free update. I don't want to get you too excited though. If we can't find a camera that includes the driver, we would need to write our own. This is not a trival task, and a very rough estimate of the cost to do so is in the range of $15,000-$30,000 worth of labor. We would only do this if we thought we could earn that much back, which is unclear at this time. In other words, don't count on it if we have to write the driver. Interestingly, when I tested the winds aloft calc, my RV-6A was off by less than 1 foot/sec at crusing speed. (I have Van's recommended static and pitot ports.) Thanks Greg ----- Original Message ----- From: Frazier, Vincent A To: Greg Toman - Grand Rapids Technologies, Inc. Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 9:30 AM Subject: video input/taxi camera and other questions Greg, After the TBM/RV-6 accident at Oshkosh, the email lists are on fire with guys wanting taxi cameras. Someone at your booth at Oshkosh mentioned that someone had a USB interface that would allow your EFIS screen to show video. PLEASE tell us where and how to get it. Right now, this would be a HUGE selling point. Also, is the ASI calibration to correct the winds aloft calculations ever going to be available? It's been almost 2 years since we discussed it. Vince ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 02:52:07 PM PST US From: "Jerry Hansen" Subject: RE: RV-List: FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions http://www.bluechillies.com/details/16749.html http://www.codecomments.com/archive425-2005-9-615836.html http://www.windowsfordevices.com/articles/AT4566767075.html http://www.gotdotnet.com/workspaces/workspace.aspx?id=0eb87e35-13e4-4fa3-9fd e-71e9136f47de http://web.tampabay.rr.com/vescovi/gumstix/gumstix%20RVTC/Rear%20View%20Todd ler%20Cam2.doc _____ From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Frazier, Vincent A Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 2:01 PM Subject: RV-List: FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions OK, one of you geeks out there knows where to find such a device.... a Windows CE driven camera. Go! Fetch! Good boy! ;-) Vince _____ From: Greg Toman - Grand Rapids Technologies, Inc. Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 3:46 PM Subject: Re: video input/taxi camera and other questions The ASI calibration is in the release Jeff and I are testing now. We thought we would release it tomorrow, but it might be another couple of days because I messed up the new function for defining missed approach altitudes, decision altitudes, and a pre-set altitude for the vertical nav function. I checked into the camera thing (which by the way, we have had others request). Our software engineer said that a web cam that plugs into our USB port would provide us with video, but that he was unaware of any webcams that include a driver for Windows CE (this is the embedded version of windows that we use...it is quite different from the version on your PC). So, all we need is the software driver. If you heard of someonw that found a webcam that includes a Windows CE driver, find out what camera that is, and let us know. This would be a free update. I don't want to get you too excited though. If we can't find a camera that includes the driver, we would need to write our own. This is not a trival task, and a very rough estimate of the cost to do so is in the range of $15,000-$30,000 worth of labor. We would only do this if we thought we could earn that much back, which is unclear at this time. In other words, don't count on it if we have to write the driver. Interestingly, when I tested the winds aloft calc, my RV-6A was off by less than 1 foot/sec at crusing speed. (I have Van's recommended static and pitot ports.) Thanks Greg ----- Original Message ----- From: Frazier, Vincent A Inc. Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 9:30 AM Subject: video input/taxi camera and other questions Greg, After the TBM/RV-6 accident at Oshkosh, the email lists are on fire with guys wanting taxi cameras. Someone at your booth at Oshkosh mentioned that someone had a USB interface that would allow your EFIS screen to show video. PLEASE tell us where and how to get it. Right now, this would be a HUGE selling point. Also, is the ASI calibration to correct the winds aloft calculations ever going to be available? It's been almost 2 years since we discussed it. Vince ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 03:05:05 PM PST US From: Steve Eberhart Subject: Re: RV-List: FW: video input/taxi camera and other questions --> RV-List message posted by: Steve Eberhart Oh, I don't know. Maybe we could google "web cam + windows CE driver" and get something like: http://www.gotdotnet.com/workspaces/workspace.aspx?id=0eb87e35-13e4-4fa3-9fde-71e9136f47de http://msdn.microsoft.com/embedded/usewinemb/ce/sharedsrccode/USBDriver/default.aspx http://www.windowsfordevices.com/news/NS7191593413.html http://blogs.msdn.com/mikehall/archive/2006/03/08/546465.aspx This is a start, let me know how it progresses. THis could turn me from the Dynon Flightdek 180 to the Grand Rapids units. Steve EBerhart RV-7A razier, Vincent A wrote: > > OK, one of you geeks out there knows where to find such a device.... a > Windows CE driven camera. Go! Fetch! Good boy! ;-) > > Vince > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From:* Greg Toman - Grand Rapids Technologies, Inc. > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 30, 2006 3:46 PM > *To:* Frazier, Vincent A > *Subject:* Re: video input/taxi camera and other questions > > The ASI calibration is in the release Jeff and I are testing now. We > thought we would release it tomorrow, but it might be another couple > of days because I messed up the new function for defining missed > approach altitudes, decision altitudes, and a pre-set altitude for the > vertical nav function. > > I checked into the camera thing (which by the way, we have had others > request). Our software engineer said that a web cam that plugs into > our USB port would provide us with video, but that he was unaware of > any webcams that include a driver for Windows CE (this is the embedded > version of windows that we use...it is quite different from the > version on your PC). So, all we need is the software driver. If you > heard of someonw that found a webcam that includes a Windows CE > driver, find out what camera that is, and let us know. This would be > a free update. > > I don't want to get you too excited though. If we can't find a camera > that includes the driver, we would need to write our own. This is not > a trival task, and a very rough estimate of the cost to do so is in > the range of $15,000-$30,000 worth of labor. We would only do this if > we thought we could earn that much back, which is unclear at this > time. In other words, don't count on it if we have to write the driver. > > Interestingly, when I tested the winds aloft calc, my RV-6A was off by > less than 1 foot/sec at crusing speed. (I have Van's recommended > static and pitot ports.) > > Thanks > Greg > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* Frazier, Vincent A > *To:* Greg Toman - Grand Rapids Technologies, Inc. > > *Sent:* Wednesday, August 30, 2006 9:30 AM > *Subject:* video input/taxi camera and other questions > > Greg, > > After the TBM/RV-6 accident at Oshkosh, the email lists are on > fire with guys wanting taxi cameras. Someone at your booth at > Oshkosh mentioned that someone had a USB interface that would > allow your EFIS screen to show video. PLEASE tell us where and > how to get it. > > Right now, this would be a HUGE selling point. > > Also, is the ASI calibration to correct the winds aloft > calculations ever going to be available? It's been almost 2 years > since we discussed it. > > Vince > >* > > >* > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 03:37:20 PM PST US From: Charlie Kuss Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in At 12:45 PM 8/30/2006, you wrote: >> Vans does update errors in the plans. However, if he has 1000 >> sets of plans already printed out, the error won't be fixed till >> the next printing cycle. He has Dutch genes, after all. >>Charlie Kuss > >And an errata sheet(s) costs how much? > >Ron Lee > >Do not archive Ron, It costs $15 a year. It's called the RVator. I believe that Doug Reeves also posts all the revisions listed in the RVator issues on his web site. That costs nothing but a little effort from the builder. Charlie Kuss ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 03:46:21 PM PST US From: linn Walters Subject: RV-List: rivets --> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters OK rivet heads! Here's your chance to help educate me! I have acquired a lot of rivets ....... bags of them .... without any ID on them at all. How do you identify the rivets with their AN number???? They do appear to be aviation grade. How can you tell what the hardness of the rivet is??? Do you need to know???? Linn do not archive ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 05:10:13 PM PST US From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Wheel Fairings I have Goodyear Custom II tires and they also maintain their shape.....stiff well made sidewalls. Tom in Ohio RV6-A ----- Original Message ----- From: Jerry Grimmonpre To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 9:48 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Wheel Fairings Does anyone know the difference between Goodyear Custom III tires and the earlier Custom II tires? Many thanks .... Jerry Grimmonpre' ----- Original Message ----- From: Charlie Kuss To: rv-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:04 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Van's Wheel Fairings Dick Two questions. Can you recommend any other name brand tires besides Goodyear? What speed gain did you see by using the Sam James wheel pants? Charlie Kuss Derrick, When I built my RV8 in 1999, I experimented with several wheelpant and tire variations. My objective was to obtain the most speed and the least drag possible. I found out that when I used any of the various cheap tires, I needed at least a 1/2 inch clearance around the tire casing, because when landing etc. the cheap tires would expand and rub the wheelpant. I solved the problem by installing Goodyear Custom III tires and tubes. The Custom III series has a much stiffer tred and side casing and holds its shape even with a hard landing. Note: the lower (closer to ground) you install the wheel pant, the faster you will go. I tried Vans pressure recovery pants first and then went to Sam James pressure recovery pants because they went faster and looked better. Good luck with your project. Dick Martin RV8 N233M the fast one 1350 hours - it gets better every day ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 05:40:34 PM PST US From: FLYaDIVE@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: rivets --> RV-List message posted by: FLYaDIVE@aol.com In a message dated 8/30/06 6:48:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, pitts_pilot@bellsouth.net writes: > OK rivet heads! Here's your chance to help educate me! I have acquired > a lot of rivets ....... bags of them .... without any ID on them at all. > How do you identify the rivets with their AN number???? They do appear > to be aviation grade. How can you tell what the hardness of the rivet > is??? Do you need to know???? > Linn > ====================== Hi Linn: I did not know you were o this group! Start with the angle of the flush rivets, they should be 100 Deg. Then there is a gage you can get for the diameter. It may even have length. There are also rivets with a dimple on the head. Separate them into a separate group also. Now, the rest of the information is located in the AC 43-13 4-57. Riveting 4-14 Figure 4-4. Rivet Identification and Part Number Breakdown 4-16 Table 4-8. Aircraft Rivet Identification 4-17 There is also information on Hardened, Oversized and Frozen Rivets. Barry "Chop'd Liver" "Show them the first time, correct them the second time, kick them the third time." Yamashiada ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 05:53:19 PM PST US From: bcollinsrv7a@comcast.net (Bob Collins) Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 05:53:30 PM PST US From: "Dave" Subject: Re: RV-List: Sam James fiberglass video --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" Andy, I caved in an bought the dvd from you. Plus a few other things. Thanks for the website Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:27 AM Subject: Re: RV-List: Sam James fiberglass video > --> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" > > > Builder's Bookstore has them in stock > http://www.buildersbooks.com/fiberglass_101.htm?19,52 > > Andy > 800 780-4115 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dave" > To: > Sent: Sunday, August 20, 2006 10:37 PM > Subject: RV-List: Sam James fiberglass video > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave" >> >> Listers >> >> Anyone have a Sam James fiberglass dvd there are ready to sell? >> >> Thanks >> >> Dave >> >> Do not archive >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 06:12:33 PM PST US From: "Doc Custer" Subject: Re: RV-List: rivets --> RV-List message posted by: "Doc Custer" Yes, you need to know the hardness (alloy & heat treatment if any) of rivets. Rivets are marked with a device on the head. One dimple is alloy AD, which is the one Van's uses. FAA publication AC43-13 has a list with the head devices and the tensile strengths. Probably more than you wanted to know. Cheers, Doc Custer ----- Original Message ----- From: "linn Walters" Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 4:50 PM Subject: RV-List: rivets > --> RV-List message posted by: linn Walters > > OK rivet heads! Here's your chance to help educate me! I have acquired > a lot of rivets ....... bags of them .... without any ID on them at all. > How do you identify the rivets with their AN number???? They do appear > to be aviation grade. How can you tell what the hardness of the rivet > is??? Do you need to know???? > Linn > > do not archive > > > ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 06:29:34 PM PST US From: "Bob Collins" Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" Whoops. Forgot to mention that the last time a revision in plans appeared in the RVator was early 2004 (this doesn't include already published service bulletins). Before that, there was a revision (the allowance of welding in the aileron pushrod) in mid 2003. I'm missing two issues so don't bet the house that these stats are correct. But I *did* notice after early 2005, that not as many revisions were appearing in RVator as had up until that time (there used to be amount one per month). That could mean that there was nothing to revise or maybe they just needed the space for a Tom Greene bike-riding story. (g) Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Collins Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:53 PM Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 07:09:55 PM PST US From: Darrell Reiley Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, suggestion: errors in --> RV-List message posted by: Darrell Reiley This thread equals about 500 rivets that could have be set? I say rivet on. If you want to offer a price to buy Van's booming business... well Darrell --- Bob Collins wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" > > > Whoops. Forgot to mention that the last time a > revision in plans appeared in > the RVator was early 2004 (this doesn't include > already published service > bulletins). Before that, there was a revision (the > allowance of welding in > the aileron pushrod) in mid 2003. I'm missing two > issues so don't bet the > house that these stats are correct. > > But I *did* notice after early 2005, that not as > many revisions were > appearing in RVator as had up until that time (there > used to be amount one > per month). That could mean that there was nothing > to revise or maybe they > just needed the space for a Tom Greene bike-riding > story. (g) > > Do not archive > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On > Behalf Of Bob Collins > Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2006 7:53 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Rant, question, > suggestion: errors in > > > > > > > > browse > Subscriptions page, > FAQ, > > Web Forums! > > > Admin. > > > > > __________________________________________________ ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 10:50:12 PM PST US From: "Ed Holyoke" Subject: RV-List: elevator balance weight --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" Howdy list, I've rebuilt the elevators on our 6 due to pedestrian damage. I went with the .020 skins (previously .016) and am using the heavier lead counterbalance weights recommended for these skins. Pre-paint, the left elevator balances with only about an ounce or two on the trailing edge while the right elevator is considerably more nose heavy without the trim tab and associated structure. I'd like to remove some of the extra weight from the right elevator before I rivet on the tip and paint, but I'm concerned that the left elevator won't have enough c-balance weight and I'll need extra on the right side to do the final balance on the whole assembly rather than balancing each individually. I know that it all depends on how heavy the paint is and I'm not sure what that will be. How much did you have to remove from the weights on your airplane to get it to balance after paint? Did the left elevator have enough weight or did it need make up weight on the other elevator? Pax, Ed Holyoke